Dances With Wolves Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Phew! Some heavy duty sanding going on there Still, you seem to have broken the back of it now, just a few dimples to sort out. Don't forget that Squadron Green putty tends to take paint differently than the styrene around it, so make sure you give it a coat of primer (Mr Surfacer as you mentioned), sand it with some fine grade paper/stick and prime it again. Should start to blend in then.D'ya think you've lost much detail? If so, are you going to try your hand at rescribing the bits where the panel lines are a bit light? Go easy on the puttied areas if you do, as it's a little prone to cutting up because of the difference in density. Keep going though... it's too expensive a kit to give up on Hi Mike: From a general kit building perspective, I ditched the tube filler thing a long time ago - it still works of course, as Mish is amply demonstrating but...you wind up with lots of re-scribing and the side effect of having trouble not chipping the filler with the scriber during remedials. Bin the tube filler and wheel Milliput Superfine White out instead. Mix and apply to area and then enjoy the best part of all - 'sand' the excess off with a wet finger, while doing no damage to the surrounding detail (no re-scribing). Wet the finger of choice and run it back and forth across the filled area. Re-wet periodically until the excess Milliput has washed away (dab up the slurry with kitchen towell as you go). Some slurry will find its way into recessed rivets and so on but is easily removed with a sharpened tooth pick / stiff damp brush etc. The wetting of the Milliput increases its adhesive qualities and it dries plenty hard enough to take re-scribing like normal styrene. Most times, the wet finger sanding leaves little or no need for Mr Surfacer on top. If any additional filling remains either more Milliput or CA medium viscosity (or gel) applied very locally with a bit of brass wire and hit with accelerator still leaves the now limited re-scribing a safe prospect. When I built the IL-2 from AM recently I wound up with an ugly wing root step - a significany dip that needed a very careful fill and blend. Milliput went in, the wet finger went on and feathered the repair in so readily that no conventional sanding was required and it disappeared under primer and top coats. A real sanity preserver - and when you've little enough of it to start with that's important - eh Mish... Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 A very interesting technique Stve I will give it a try one day. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 Some more on the 110 at last. Underside done Top sprayed with the lighter paint and masking up for the dark green. Now does anyone think there is not enough contrast between the colours? This one I took with a flash to highlight the colours better. Painted up a bit of plasticard with what I think would be better colours, what does everyone else think? Answers tied to a brick and aimed at the 110 please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Hi Mish, I'd say it definitely needs a higher contrast between the two colours. But, not being a Luftwaffe expert, I couldn't say much past that observation! I'll leave it for the more qualified to guide you further. Cheers Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tango98 Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Hi Mish, Having looked at your 110 shots and bearing in mind the very low contrast that existed between the two greens 70 & 71 when applied to the full-size aircraft, I would have to say that. IMHO, the contrast between the two upper colours on your model is a lot more representative of the real thing than that which is seen on so many Luftwaffe models in the same camo. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizzy Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Looking good so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gibson Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Hi Mike:From a general kit building perspective, I ditched the tube filler thing a long time ago - it still works of course, as Mish is amply demonstrating but...you wind up with lots of re-scribing and the side effect of having trouble not chipping the filler with the scriber during remedials. Bin the tube filler and wheel Milliput Superfine White out instead. Mix and apply to area and then enjoy the best part of all - 'sand' the excess off with a wet finger, while doing no damage to the surrounding detail (no re-scribing). Wet the finger of choice and run it back and forth across the filled area. Re-wet periodically until the excess Milliput has washed away (dab up the slurry with kitchen towell as you go). Some slurry will find its way into recessed rivets and so on but is easily removed with a sharpened tooth pick / stiff damp brush etc. The wetting of the Milliput increases its adhesive qualities and it dries plenty hard enough to take re-scribing like normal styrene. Most times, the wet finger sanding leaves little or no need for Mr Surfacer on top. If any additional filling remains either more Milliput or CA medium viscosity (or gel) applied very locally with a bit of brass wire and hit with accelerator still leaves the now limited re-scribing a safe prospect. When I built the IL-2 from AM recently I wound up with an ugly wing root step - a significany dip that needed a very careful fill and blend. Milliput went in, the wet finger went on and feathered the repair in so readily that no conventional sanding was required and it disappeared under primer and top coats. A real sanity preserver - and when you've little enough of it to start with that's important - eh Mish... Steve Hi Steve, I made this about four years ago using sans filler. I just banged the upper wing halves on first. Mind you, if I have a filling problem, then I also use an epoxy filler -Alteco- which is an excellent substitute to Miliput if you can't get it. Alteco cures in about three hours to a hardish consistency. I find that it rescribes best at this point, rather than leaving it until fully cured when it can be a bit brittle. I also agree with your comments about using a wet finger to smooth it* - cuts the work down a lot. *PG Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gibson Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 (edited) Why worry? You'll probably be wrong if you change the colour. Stick with what you've got, it looks fine. Dave. Edited August 24, 2008 by Dave Gibson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyL Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Mish, that looks just great. Keep it as it is - you're doing a lovely job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedfellows Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Yes leave it just how it is Mish, its perfect!! Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 25, 2008 Author Share Posted August 25, 2008 I really don't know what to do. I've got to respray the lighter green as I'm not happy with it it's gone on too thin. so I might take the opportunity to change the shade. The colours are accurate. I've taken the model outside in the daylight and they are spot on to the colour guide. But to me they just don't look right. What to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 (edited) I would leave it as it is. I will use Humbrol matt 30 (dark green) and 91 (black green) for my STUKA. It's about the same contrast. Also,colors tend to change when pictures are taken indoors. Edited August 25, 2008 by Erwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 25, 2008 Author Share Posted August 25, 2008 Done a couple of tests, I've lightened the lighter green/grey on both wings so far everyone prefers the left wing. I must admit I do to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 For a BoB 110 I would use darkgreen/blackgreen and lightblue underside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 25, 2008 Author Share Posted August 25, 2008 The left wing is nearer what the printed colour guide shows. The inner left wing and fuselage is RLM70/71 (as near as I can match out of the bottle with Tamiya) which is called for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyL Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Aha, I see what you mean Mish. Port wing looks better IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 25, 2008 Author Share Posted August 25, 2008 Right, all done thanks for the help guys. I've remasked, airbrushed and unmasked and come up with this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 That looks nice. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyL Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Much better Mish - great recovery! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Nice work Mish! Looks Ok for me! Much better contrast which I think was that you where aiming for! Azgaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedfellows Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Et voila! Perfect!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 25, 2008 Author Share Posted August 25, 2008 Just put a couple of coats of Klear on her and she looks even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 27, 2008 Author Share Posted August 27, 2008 Three hours of fiddly work today. First off I painted a lot of the smaller parts on the sprue. Next was to mask the canopy with the supplied mask set. I then sprayed the parts with matt black and then the final colour. Next up was to build the exhausts. Gluing all those stubs to the manifolds was fun ... NOT. The exhausts need another coat of paint and some weathering. I'm sure this kit was designed buy a sadist to try and drive me mad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyL Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 Nice job Mish. Good job they supply those masks for the canopy eh? Those exhausts are right fiddly, and be warned they are a real tight fit into the nacelles. I had to sand mine front, rear, and each lower edge of each exhaust assembly, so just a heads up for you. Forewarned is forearmed as they say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted August 27, 2008 Author Share Posted August 27, 2008 Thanks Andy, never thought to test fit them in the nacelles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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