Sea King HAR.3 - completed...

[modelman182]

The Sea King is finally finished! It was way behind schedule (but still in time for its presentation, PHEW!) and I didn't get to take as many photos of it as I would have wished, but here it is - along with my thoughts on how the build went.

Firstly, I am way out of practice at modelling - particularly with my airbrushes! I messed up the finish on this bird and never had the time to get it back to where I wanted it to be, but it is still being admired by the current owner, and he reckons the final recipient will also be delighted with it. So... I'm reasonably happy...

The start point was the 48th scale Hasegawa SH-3H kit, the Flightpath HAR.3A Multi Media conversion kit and the Model Alliance/Aviation Workshop decal sheet.

This was the scene about two weeks ago - spraying primer on the PE and resin parts...

And starting to put the aerials on the fuselage...

Since then, I've finished it all. Sorry I couldn't find the time to do more pics.

The PE parts in the conversion are simply astounding! But there are a couple of things I would recommend to anyone wishing to tackle this conversion. First is to get as MUCH reference material as you can prior to the build. The instructions are good, but it seems that there are many possible variations between aircraft. I was given a choice of two serials to build this one with, but I only had limited reference pics - so I 'fudged' some of the issues as to what was on the airframe and what was not. The second thing I think is essential to success here is a good PE bending tool. I use the Hold & Fold 8" machine - though my need for the larger size was dictated by a desire to do some 400th scale battleships with PE addons - and I found it absolutely invaluable for getting the various and sometimes complex shapes required. I found the fold scoring on the PE to be "spot on" in all cases (Well done, D J Parkins!!). The resin components (radome and sponsons) were cleanly cast with almost no pour stubs present. The white metal parts (tail rotor, aerials, sensors and winch body) were also beautifully cast, with minimal seams and stubs. I found them very easy to clean up.

To build the tail rotor (7 white metal parts - 6 blades and the main shaft; 3 PE parts - triple laminate for blade adjustment arms) I made a jig which consisted of a medicine measuring cup (upturned with a hole larger than the main shaft diameter drilled centrally in the base of it) and a sheet of 3mm perspex with a hole drilled centrally, then a sheet of 1mm thick white plastic, onto which I drew a circle which I dissected into 6 equal segments (basic geometry and a pair of compasses) before drilling a hole in the centre. This jig allowed me to align all six blades while I waited for the CA glue to dry.

I also built a simple jig to hold the rotors, once they were constructed, and a stand for the fuselage. They weren't necessary for the construction, but were very useful for preventing damage to the various bits of PE that were attached (Static dischargers on the ends of the rotor blades - aerials all over the fuselage!)

Construction was very straightforward. The interior is quite a piece of work, and did require some 'adjustments' to be made to fit (only the floor plate had to be trimmed), but the majority of the parts were simple to align. Guide lines etched into the parts where perpendicular parts are mated were absolutely invaluable!

One thing I did do wrong was forget to cut the gap in the spine of the fuselage to accommodate the resin Radome. I ended up having to do this VERY carefully after the fuselage had been painted and joined. I was fortunate that I managed to trim most of the plastic off without letting much fall into the fuselage. MY advice is - make that cut BEFORE you paint and build the fuselage!

I also fitted a piece of plastic tubing behind the mounting hole for the tail rotor. I carefully drilled and filed out its centre so that it was a 'snug' fit over the white metal tail rotor shaft and then glued it in place inside the tail part. This made it simple to ensure the tail rotor was aligned properly with the fuselage and did not require gluing in place. A consideration for those modellers who wish to transport the model to shows! The main rotor was a snug fit into its fuselage bush without any modifications.

The decals from Model Alliance/Aviation Workshop were very nicely done. They responded well to Micro Sol and settled down nicely (despite my ruining of the finish on the main colour! LOL!). My only disappointment was the complete lack of stencil details. I ended up producing the major stencils on Experts Choice decal paper. I designed them in CorelDraw (my usual vector drawing package) and printed them on my Epson Stylus Photo 1290S. I did three print runs - one for the black only on clear decal, one for colour (though only red is required) on clear, and one for colour (again only red) on white decal. They were coated with Microscale Decal Film and then applied WITHOUT Microsol. I also printed the serial requested (XZ598) on clear decal. I may just make a full stencil decal set in the near future, as I seem to have most of the info in the pics I currently possess. Pre- and post- decalling I sprayed the entire airframe with Klear (Future).

Paints used were Humbrol enamels. Airbrushes used were Iwata HP-SB and Paasche VL (1mm needle). Masking was done with Parafilm M, Artist's Masking Fluid, Tamiya masking tape (6 & 10mm) and Cammett 3mm masking tape (for the tail rotor colour banding).

The display case I built from 9mm thick MDF, overlayed with 400 grit wet & dry paper. Pine picture frame beading to edge it and provide a channel for the lid. The lid is made from 4mm thick Perspex. Base dimensions are 420mm by 380mm, lid height is 150mm (that's 16.5" by 15" by 6" for our imperial measurers! hee hee...). Careful positioning of the aircraft and it's rotors is required to get it to fit into the case. I fixed the aircraft to the base by drilling 1.4mm holes into the two outermost main wheels and the tail wheel, fitting 1.4mm rod into them, then drilling holes into the base - superglueing it all into place.

Any comments, criticisms and questions are welcomed. My first completed model for this year, and only my second model produced in almost 19 months. I really MUST try to do better! LOL!...

Edited March 13, 2009 by Kamshot

[Windy]

Looks brilliant mate.

[periklis_sale]

Outstanding work mate!!!!!

Is it possible to tell us more about constructing the case with Perspex?

[periklis_sale]

I found their web page for the Perspex sheet but there are many to choose from....which one did you use?

and how did you glue them together?

[modelman182]

I found their web page for the Perspex sheet but there are many to choose from....which one did you use?

and how did you glue them together?

Hi and thanks for the kind words. I bought the Perspex as an 900 by 610mm sheet, 4mm thick, from my local DIY store. It comes with protective plastic adhesive sheeting on both sides, making handling easy. I used non-permanent OHP marker pens to draw out the lines for the various cuts - having designed the optimum layout for the parts on CorelDraw first to reduce waste and ensure I had enough material to make all the parts. I then cut roughly along the marked lines using my table saw. Then I used a parallel 'gate' on the table saw, set to the appropriate distances, to "square up" the cuts to the correct size - this does depend on you having at least ONE straight edge from the manufacturers original cut. The case lid measures 388mm by 428mm, to allow it to sit over the vertical sides. The front and rear panels are both 388mm by 150mm, and the side panels are 420mm by 150mm. This allows the joints for the sides to be 'inside' at the front and rear and avoids any difficult cutting. The last case I made I chamfered each joint to 45 degrees - took me absolutely AGES - never doing that again! When the pieces were cut I carefully sanded them smooth using Master Casters Sanding sticks - Purple for basic sanding then White to bring the surface to a polished sheen - I didn't bother sanding the bottom edges of the side panels.

I glued the case lid together using Araldite Rapid Clear epoxy resin. using the base as a guide, I started by gluing the front right hand vertical edge. Take care to ensure that all the corners are level, otherwise the lid will not fit properly. I mixed just enough glue to do the single joint, this stuff sets REAL quick! Leaving the two sides sitting vertically on the base, I then attached the back panel applying glue to the rear vertical edge of the right hand panel. Be careful not to let glue reach the pine beading or you won't be able to lift the lid off - EVER! With three sides in, I then mixed enough glue to do both the front and rear edges of the left hand panel, again ensuring that I didn't put glue right down to where the panel touches the beading, and carefully inserted it between the front and rear panels. With the sides in place and set I applied glue to each corner, radiating it out about an inch from each corner, and place the lid onto the sides. I had a small overlap at the rear, but it is barely noticeable. When lifting the completed lid off the base, care must be taken as the sides tend to 'bow' inwards as you lift it, but the lid is stable enough, and it is just too difficult to apply the fast setting epoxy to the whole of the upper edges of the side before it starts to set.

Hope this helps.

Kevin S

Edited July 8, 2008 by Kamshot

[OzH]

Looks the business, really well done there

Love the Sea King

[periklis_sale]

thanks mate for the SBS!!!

I will try it one day.

I just notice that on some photos the paint looks like an orage peel....is it the photo?

[modelman182]

thanks mate for the SBS!!!

I will try it one day.

I just notice that on some photos the paint looks like an orage peel....is it the photo?

Ahhh... wish that it were just the photo! I screwed up the paint job early on. Ran out of time to sort it completely. Fortunately, the photo makes it look a LOT worse than it appears in real life!

SBS? unkown acronym - care to expand it for me, please, mate?

Kevin S

[modelman182]

Oh - and I forgot to put this pic in amongst the many.

These are the stencils I designed and printed for the kit. I only did the most noticeable ones, and they came out reasonably well.

Kevin S

Edited March 13, 2009 by Kamshot

[F-32]

Beautiful looking Sea King

[periklis_sale]

Ahhh... wish that it were just the photo! I screwed up the paint job early on. Ran out of time to sort it completely. Fortunately, the photo makes it look a LOT worse than it appears in real life!

SBS? unkown acronym - care to expand it for me, please, mate?

Kevin S

Step By Step (SBS)

Thought you knew it!!

these digital photos!!!!!!!

what paper did you use for the stencils?

And how did you apply them? Micro SET SOL?

[JakeEaton]

Beautiful Sea King. Saw your inprogress thread and instantly knew it'd be a beauty. Really need to see more of these on here. The amount of details you've managed to fit on it and no weathering is very good.

[Graham T]

Wow that's beautiful!!

[modelman182]

Step By Step (SBS)

Thought you knew it!!

these digital photos!!!!!!!

what paper did you use for the stencils?

And how did you apply them? Micro SET SOL?

Oh DUH! Of course, it's Step By Step!! LOL! Must be old age and AMS kicking in here!

Bare Metal Foil's Expert's Choice White and Clear decal paper used for this, mail ordered from Hannants, I think. Printed on my Epson Stylus Photo 1290S (awesome five colour and black A3+ printer - this is my second one of these!). I only do a light single coat of Microscale Decal Film on the printed decals, so using Micro Sol or Set is ruinous to them. I did try it with the first serial number I applied, but the solution melted the sealant properties of the film and made the ink run so I removed it and did all the subsequent decals without any solution applied. Coating them with Klear (Future) afterwards seals them in nicely, though there is some silvering when viewed from certain angles.

Kevin S

[modelman182]

Beautiful Sea King. Saw your inprogress thread and instantly knew it'd be a beauty. Really need to see more of these on here. The amount of details you've managed to fit on it and no weathering is very good.

Thanks Jake - the Flightpath set is SO comprehensive... it's just awesome! I see these aircraft a lot (I live on the Welsh coast and the Sea King often operates in Cardigan Bay, bringing patients to our local hospital - my house looks out over the landing patch they use on our University's Sports Grounds!) and they are kept pretty damn clean for the most part, so I decided against any weathering. Glad I did, as it is such an attractive yellow bird! hee hee!

Kevin S

[Oliver]

Thats not a model, its the real thing!!!! Seriously though that is a stunning Seaking you have there.

[paul_c]

that looks great mate, i enjoyed your work in progress thread but this is even better!

[atdb27]

That is 1 Fab Sea King.

Seeing this now means I will have to give the wallet some bashing!

Adrian

[Smiffy]

What a fantastic build, that looks gorgeous.

Take a bow sir.

[A Frampton]

That is fantastic I wish I was as "way out of practice at modelling" as you are.

I'm not really into Helicopters but wanted to build one as part of an Ark Royal collection.

Don't think I'll bother now as mine wouldn't be a touch on your's

[thx6667]

That's some great work there Kam, turning the Has kit into a proper Sea King is no mean feat.

I can see that Hasegawa wanted to appeal to the US market with the version they chose, but if they'd have done a Westland built version (the most successful variant) then life would have been sweet. As it is, I reckon there's still room out there for a Westland Sea King in 1/48.

[modelman182]

That is fantastic I wish I was as "way out of practice at modelling" as you are.

I'm not really into Helicopters but wanted to build one as part of an Ark Royal collection.

Don't think I'll bother now as mine wouldn't be a touch on your's

Don't be put off, sir! Get started in on your helicopter and, if you DO get into any trouble, just come in here and ask for advice and help - there is a wealth of helpful, friendly talent on this site!

I look forward to seeing your Ark Royal collection.

Kevin S

[modelman182]

That's some great work there Kam, turning the Has kit into a proper Sea King is no mean feat.

I can see that Hasegawa wanted to appeal to the US market with the version they chose, but if they'd have done a Westland built version (the most successful variant) then life would have been sweet. As it is, I reckon there's still room out there for a Westland Sea King in 1/48.

Yeah - it would have been seriously nice to have some Westland variants. I have two of the Revell re-pops of the Hasegawa kit, one of which I intend to do as the Apollo Mission "66" SH-3D (got the short sponsons from Belcher bits already). The other I might do as a Royal Navy Rescue HU.5, as I have the main decals as "leftovers" on the Model Alliance sheet I used for the HAR.3. Just a shame that Flightpath don't do a specific HU.5 conversion (yet?) - cos the sets used for the HAR.3 are truly wonderful. Makes the conversion task much more straightforward - though I did fudge several things that I would have altered if I had had more time for it.

Kevin S

[turnerdad]

Nice Sea King. There it is, short and Sweet. Fab build, what next?

[modelman182]

Nice Sea King. There it is, short and Sweet. Fab build, what next?

Well... it has ONE wing on it - but it's fixed to the rear of the vehicle...

K&R Replicas 1:43 scale Ford Escort Mk4 RS Turbo Series II - all black, with dark & light grey trim. A white metal kit with vacform windows. Have to make a few mods to it to replicate the clients own vehicle.

Kevin S

Edited July 17, 2008 by Kamshot