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Humbrol Mattcote


Seamus

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It's handy for tinting windows, though! :winkgrin:

peebeep

Really? I thought it would be quite good for making replacement canopies, just file and sand into the right shape and polish up. The only time I tried to use it, the little bugger refused to let me have my stirring stick back!

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Rich

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Really? I thought it would be quite good for making replacement canopies, just file and sand into the right shape and polish up. The only time I tried to use it, the little bugger refused to let me have my stirring stick back!

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Rich

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

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If you can get it out of the pot you may be able to pass it off as amber.

peebeep

Get it out! I want to know how they got it in there, through such a small opening, in the first place! I know how to get it out though, you just use a grinder to remove the tin from around the varnish.

Of course different people have different experiences with it, I seem to recall someone on Hyperscale swearing by the stuff, my experience has been more swearing at it.....

Best

Rich

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  • 11 years later...

I find it work perfick for me! I just give the bottle a b****y good shake before use, use a good sized brush (you dont need a massive brush for this stuff). I left it overnight upside down in the room i work and came back in the morning to find the two i have painted with it look excellent! (it did look a bit shiny the night before but once fully dry its fine, a little heat in the room helps it, its a nice warm room).

Just my opinion.

Edited by Markh-75
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  • 1 month later...

I tend to use it to help protect the decals! Some decals especially if applied to a matt surface will 'silver' around the edges of the decal; its because the matt surface allows air in under the decal; pretty much the same reason that a sucker will not stick to anything other than a smooth shiny surface! To help a decal adhere on matt, i now give the decals area a coat of satin or even gloss cote, this lets the decal adhere securely to the surface, no silvering and you can always coat over with Matt-cote after! With all the Humbrol 'cotes' and especially the matt one, they just need a right good shake before use, you can also leave the bottle upside-down overnight and then shake. If you dont shake it up, you are merely painting on the oil from it, the gunky stuff IS the matt cote. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Folks; i'm noticing that Mattcote can soften silver paint finishes, i use the Humbrol Mattcote after the decals have dried and set, but i was doing a model with a silver fuselage and used Humbrol Polished aluminium paint to paint it with. I always cover my decals but i'm wondering if there is better stuff than this, that wont make my silvers react this way? While i wont use acrylic paints, i might use acrylic varnish if i was assured it works correctly. What are the best ones; enamel and acrylic please? (I promise that this time i will show some appreciation and actually DO something with the info i'm given! 😳 lol)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I’ve heard tell that the Humbrol Matt in tinlets used to go yellow on the model after a while, don’t know if that’s still a thing? Whatever the truth I always found it good for creating very matt finish as long as it was mixed properly, preferably with some kind of electric stirrer like a dremel or milk frother.

 

On the other hand I’ve always found the old chestnut about mixing Tamiya flat with Klear for a matt finish to be a highway to hell.  No doubt someone will be along in a minute to tell me I’m wrong and it’s all my problem but whatever, it’s awful stuff in my opinion and there’s much better alternatives these days. 

 

If you’re airbrushing I’d say you can’t go far wrong with Galeria Matt as long as it’s properly mixed.

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So what do all of our members say? What is the best Matt and/or satin lacquer out there?

i remember buying a bottle of Windsor & Newton’s acrylic lacquer but I found it went yellow after a few weeks, ruined a couple of good models into the bargain.

 

the Humbrol ‘cotes’ are actually okay on the coloured paints on a model but not the best for covering decals on a metallic finish as it can soften them. All I want is a quality lacquer I can paint onto any surface by brush without worrying if it will do any damage to colours or metallic finishes immediately or in the future. It could be that it has to be an acrylic lacquer and that’s okay as long as it does not damage the finish. I won’t use acrylic paint but if I can find it, a good acrylic lacquer is okay. Thanks in anticipation 😉🙂

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I suspect your problem is due to using a brush to apply the varnish over a metallic. If you're otherwise happy with the humbrol cotes why not give their spray can version a try? I think the nature of the humbrol metalcotes is such the rubbing them in anyway ... whether cloth or brush ... disturbs the surface (which is why you can  buff them)

 

Cheers 

 

Colin

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Thanks guys; unfortunately i'm not keen on spray cans as i'm only making kits in 1:72. Not alot to spray but plenty of off-spray. CKW i suspect you are right about the metal cotes but it does it on other metallic too. I'll keep on looking, thanks.

Love the idea of the B58! One of my favourite big jets; i'll look forward to seeing it in RFI!

 

Cheers guys.

Edited by Markh-75
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I am very pleased that I did a test ! It would have ruined the whole thing! I painted the colour (Humbrol gloss 191) onto a scrap bit of plastic yesterday and today I painted the satin cote on; it softened and melted the silver paint even though the paint was fully dry!

glad I found out about that before I painted the kit! That would have been heartbreaking.

i used to used acrylic gloss lacquer by Windsor & Newton and after a few weeks there were yellowed ares on any white decals and it left yellow trails on the wings (looked like a snail 🐌 had gone over the kit; thus I stopped using it!

 

i remember as a boy, we put the decals on, dried them and left them to dry! No lacquer on decals at all. Only good thing that being a gloss finish, the decals will go on very nicely, but I want to protect them. 
 

there MUST be something better out there? I know some of you airbrush it on but I like brush painting, what about other makes?

sorry to keep posting about this again guys, but I need a solution to my problem. I won’t mind if the lacquer is acrylic as long as it doesn’t go funny colours after a while and as long as the silver doesn’t start melting.

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1 hour ago, Markh-75 said:

Well, I am very pleased that I did a test ! It would have ruined the whole thing! I painted the colour (Humbrol gloss 191) onto a scrap bit of plastic yesterday and today I painted the satin cote on; it softened and melted the silver paint even though the paint was fully dry!

glad I found out about that before I painted the kit! That would have been heartbreaking.

i used to used acrylic gloss lacquer by Windsor & Newton and after a few weeks there were yellowed ares on any white decals and it left yellow trails on the wings (looked like a snail 🐌 had gone over the kit; thus I stopped using it!

 

i remember as a boy, we put the decals on, dried them and left them to dry! No lacquer on decals at all. Only good thing that being a gloss finish, the decals will go on very nicely, but I want to protect them. 
 

there MUST be something better out there? I know some of you airbrush it on but I like brush painting, what about other makes?

sorry to keep posting about this again guys, but I need a solution to my problem. I won’t mind if the lacquer is acrylic as long as it doesn’t go funny colours after a while and as long as the silver doesn’t start melting.

Bad luck there. It must be the batches - I've just done Humbrol 191 on an ancient P-51, brush coated with Satin Cote to keep the NMF look and no problems at all. As others have said, a good stir is required, especially of the Matt Cote, to get the right finish. There again, a newer jar of Matt Cote that I have refuses to go matt, no matter how much stirring I do. 

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1 hour ago, Markh-75 said:

there MUST be something better out there

I'm sure there is but the variety of view points on this suggest no magic bullet to suit everyone. I would suggest Future with tamiya flat base mixed in. This gives you perfect control over the degree of flatness required. I also thin it with ipa to reduce risk of pooling but it can be brushed without thinning

 

Colin

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I have found what i'm looking for at Hannants! Was looking through their web page and found three bottles (flat, satin and gloss) 'Micro Products'! can be brushed on and doesnt go yellow! I have a feeling they will recommend this as i have asked them this question too; I cant see a water based product lifting metallic paint! here hoping.

Hannants are great for stuff like this, they have helped me out many times with different things!

 

49659521711_44a9fd8438_c.jpg 

 

I have used this for a few jobs now and its excellent! NO paint softening, smearing or removal on metallics at all. I put a little into a small plastic cup of a medicine bottle (eg night nurse), and it washes in water after use.

 

I consider this question now closed (for me anyway), i knew there would be something out there.

Edited by Markh-75
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