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The Stringbag Diorama


Madman

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No fool, I run a thoroughful test before I commit to the Stringbag :) I want to observe the temperature (with a meat thermometer), the creeping (with a stick) and the curing process.

I coloured the resin with a few drops ob blue ink. The second layer will be fully transparent.

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Fingers crossed again Madman, inspiring stuff. Love those Trout, though if I showed this to my brother, I'm afraid he would probably say the model was nice, but the fish!!!!!!WOW. (He's a keen fisherman, but wanabee modeller). Hope I get to see this in the flesh one day, thinking of bringing it to any shows?

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Here are the test results:

- H: I poured the mixture. There is plenty of time to mix it throughfully: I stirred it for 5 minutes, added tint, stirred another 2 minutes, etc No hurry !

- H+8h: the mixture is still liquid (like warm oil). Dipping a toothpick produces a disturbance that levels out immediately.

- H+16: the mixture is set into a rubbery state. The surface stays sticky. Fingerprints stay marked.

- H+28: set. The surface is slightly sticky, fingerprints are hardly noticeable.

- H+38: set into a hard rubber state. The surface is smooth, not sticky, fingerprints do not leave an imprint.

The product climbs quite significantly along the edges of material stuck in it. On the sharp angled side of my wood stick: 1-2mm. On the other side hardly anything. The wood "sucks up" the product quite much (like a sponge).

The most interesting property of Magic Water: NO HEAT DEVELOPMENT at all. The mixture stays "cold" during the entire curing process :thumbsup:

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If there ever were a special award given to the most persevering and patient modeller in the world, you'll surely be the winner......I'm completely amazed by the work you're doing and, most of all, for not loosing your good mood during all this complex situation. I'm really stunned.....!!!!!

Please, keep on your good work, you're building a real work of art .

Cheers........

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I've tried not to comment as I hate being a "me too" kind of poster, but I am thoroughly impressed with your abilities, and particularly your perseverance. I would love to see the completed work in the flesh some day.

On the subject of resin, you may want to perform one further test. I have used clear resins in moulding parts for classic cars. Some products were not UV stable, despite the manufacturers claims. In an accelerated life test (left outside on the roof of my shed), test castings had developed a brown tint within a few days. After six weeks the resin had taken quite a dark brown translucent shade. You may want to observe how the test mouldings behave after a few outdoors days before committing to using it in anger! While I realise your model won't be living outdoors(!), it will be subject to UV exposure over time.

Cheers,

Bill.

Edited by Heraldcoupe
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I am awaiting the time to start my resin test no 2 (2200 local time). In the meantime, I rebuilt the ladders to a correct scale. After a few weathering sequences here comes one of them (styrene strips).

At that very moment, the batteries of my camera died :)

080813Swordfish_01.jpg

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TEST RESULTS NO 2

The resin stays fluid up to H+16. Any disturbance to the surface flattens out within minutes. There is an accute danger of inserting air bubbles when stirring the water.

Between H+16 and H+17 is the right moment to model the surface. I gently hit the surface with a flat spatula. The resins sticks more than Blue Tac, then progressively less. I could sculpt the surface for an entire hour before the resin stopped being tacky enough.

After that time, the stickyness reduces slowly over the next hours to a fully cured material.

The surface I created was quite white, with the many microbubbles I included in my hourly tests. It is difficult to create anything better than a stirred surface: I could not build big waves, which was not the target anyway.

The unwanted result is that the water loses its transparency (you cannot see the bottom anymore). This is not ideal for my fish and bike. Conclusion: I will leave the water unstirred, but around the jetty and the floats.

Here comes the pic at H+17:

080814Swordfish_01.jpg

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Do those two blokes know they're been stalked by a pair of ladders? :shocked:

Id be more worried about the bloke on the left kneeling down, he seems to have split his draws :yikes::rofl:

Its very interesting to see how you do things like this Pierre, things I never thought possible :worthy:

Thanks for sharing

Bex

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Hi Madman

Just a thought but have you tried a couple of pieces of spare sprue in the magic water?

Would hate it to have an adverse reaction when you finally pour in onto the diorama

Watching with great interest

Tim.

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I poured the first layer of water, slightly tinted in green. Hardly noticeable however...

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The fish are happy :)

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A detail I missed so far: paint the ellbow paddings (brown artist oils).

080816Swordfish_02.jpg

Edited by Madman
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Awaiting the high tide, I built the engine transport crate. A couple of matches, an old Camembert cheese box - the box is old, not the Camembert ;), et voilà :)

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At the same time I painted a few other crates that will lay around on the dio..

080817Swordfish_01.jpg

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I poured the second layer of water. Holding my breath, crossing the fingers, praying all gods, avoiding black cats and ladders, etc ;) You got the picture?

080818Swordfish_03.jpg

The trout can now breethe freely. They feel sooo happy :)

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080818Swordfish_01.jpg

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So far everything is fine. The resin has set, it does no longuer run when I tilt the dio. The surface is still sticky, it will take another couple of hours to fully cure. The final state will be like hard rubber.

There is absolutely no heat, so no danger to melt our little plastic gems.

Making water ripples is more difficult, and I did not risk any further attempt on Mk.III :huh: So the water will stay cristal clear, allowing a sharp view on the lovely trout and the ditched bike.

More progress to come soon. Thanks for watching :)

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