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Found 59 results

  1. Group Build Dates: 21 July to 11 November 2018 --- I'm a little surprised that I haven't seen this suggested already... but, we'll be commemorating the end of the Great War in 2018, and I feel we should think about a group build, so... Land, sea and air, models of any military or support equipment or personnel used by any country involved in the Great War, 1914 to 1918. Standard Group Build rules, and No what ifs What do you think guys? {edit 12 Mar 2017} Title changed from 1918 - 2018, 100 years after the end of WWl to Eleventh Hour GB: 1918-2018, commemorating the end of WWl Thanks to TigerTony66 for suggesting the Eleventh Hour {/edit} Yes, I know it's the armistice, and the war didn't end until 1919, but ... General Theme GB Robert Stuart - host Wyverns4 - co-host Arniec Kallisti Blastvader Murdo JackG Ozzy CliffB Basilisk Wez whitestar12chris Blitz23 Jb65rams charlie_c67 PlaStix jrlx stevehed Grey Beema Sgt.Squarehead 825 TonyTiger66 Sabre_days limeypilot Bonhoff alancmlaird SleeperService stevehnz Ray S Plasto Corsairfoxfouruncle krow113 sampanzer planecrazee Peter Lloyd John D C Masters
  2. Lanchester 4x2 Armoured Car Copper State Model 1/35 This is CSM's new WWI era Lanchester armoured car. It's quite a simple little kit compared to some of the armour mega-kits that come from a lot of manufacturers these days. Despite the simplicity though, it really is a joy to put together. The fit is just about perfect, and the whole thing was built up and ready for paint in only 4 days. There's some really nice example of moulding to, like the front fenders which are thin enough to almost pass for being photo etched, and the wheel spokes which are remarkably thin for an injection moulded part. There are a couple of errors in the kit. The little bump on top of the turret is a socket for a flag, and it should be closer to the turret roof hatch rather than at the front edge. Also the insides of the rear wheel arches should be panelled off, instead of being open as they are here. Neither of them are big deals though and are pretty easy to fix. CSM have a photo etch set in the works for this kit, although to be honest, I don't think it's really necessary. They do have some nice figures though which should work well for a diorama. This one's painted with Gunze RLM 65 and RLM 76 in a rough representation of Admiralty light grey Thanks for looking Andy
  3. British (1917) & American (1918) Infantry in Gas Masks (35703 & 35704) 1:35 ICM Gas attacks during WWI were a constant danger to both sides of the trenches, and many men were killed or maimed horribly during the conflict, which necessitated all soldiers carrying a gas mask with them whenever they were at the front. This still didn't mean you were 100% safe, as my paternal Grandfather found out when he was mustard gassed at one of the many battles he was involved with. He recovered sufficiently, but I don't doubt that it shortened his life somewhat. The Allied gas masks were broadly similar (in fact my parents still have my Grandad's somewhere), with circular glazed eyeholes and a concertina hose that led to the filter box that was carried in a bag usually resting on the wearer's chest. They were effective, but must have restricted their situational awareness something rotten, and been horribly claustrophobic to wear for any length of time. The Kits Both sets arrive in top-opening figure sized boxes with the usual ICM inner lid that is captive to the tray. Inside are three sprues of varying sizes in sand coloured styrene, a glossy instruction sheet, and a matt painting and sprue guide. British Infantry in Gas Masks (1917) 35703 This set has four figures in various stances, giving the impression that they are advancing on the enemy. Three of the men are carrying rifles with bayonets fixed, which backs that up, and the fourth is holding his Webley revolver out in front, with an (ever-so useful) Swagger Stick in his left hand. They are all dressed in standard British uniforms with boots and puttees wrapped around their lower legs. The officer figure is less burdened by equipment, carrying only leather binocular case and holster, while the troops are weighed down by ammo pouches and assorted kit bags on their webbing. Each sports a battle bowler and their gas mask, which is moulded into the front parts of the head, with the rear a separate part from a separate sprue. The original heads can be seen attached to the main body parts, which also include separate legs, torsos and arms. All the weapons, pouches and head gear are separate parts on the other large sprue, with the gas masks and bags on the third smaller sprue. US Infantry in Gas Masks (1918) 35704 The four figures in this set are also going over the top, and are more animated than their reserved British counterparts, with dynamic poses even for the officer. Bayonets are fixed for the men, while the officer has his 1911 pistol out and a wide stance. Their dress is very similar to the British, and without studying the weapons and webbing, they could easily be mistaken for Tommies, but as you would expect the enlisted men have more equipment than the officer, although he does add a map case and canteen to his webbing. The gas masks are again moulded to the front of the head with a separate rear, and the filter bags are thinner and deeper, while the battle bowlers are pretty much identical to their allies. The officer is further distinguished from the men by his wearing of knee-length lace-up boots, while the others wear puttees wrapped around their lower legs. Again, the original heads are found on the main sprue alongside separate legs, torsos, arms and some of the larger packs. Conclusion Both sets offer a good choice of soldiers for diorama purposes, and the poses are different enough to add some action in use. As well as the suggested weapons as per the instructions, there are a large number of additional weapons of various types to give you customisation possibilities. As usual with ICM, their sculpting is crisp and realistic, with good definition between smocks, buttons, straps etc. Couple these with the German Infantry in Gas Masks we reveiwed recently, and you have the beginnings of a battle. Very highly recommended. Available from all good modelshops both on the high street and online. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Hello there, My first publication goes for the recently finished Sophwith Camel, in 1/72th scale from Revell Models. I had added some Ammo Rigging (Uschi) for upgrade the detail... Thanks for watching! Ricardo
  5. Renault FT in 1/35 scale by Meng-Model. The only changes to the kit are the use of metal chain and tool straps made with Tamiya tape to replace the photo etch ones provided in the kit. Finished in Vallejo Model Air (ugh...) and Tamiya acrylics; AK Interactive and Ammo of Mig enamels; and Ammo of Mig and Secret Weapon Miniatures pigments. As a whole, I think this kit turned out pretty good and I would place it as one of my better kits, which is funny because I started this kit almost a year ago and put it aside after I painted the camouflage because I was really unhappy with how it turned out. That being said, the strengths are the washes, oil paint rendering, the chipping, and the metal chain on the unditching tail. The weakness are the pigment effects and the camo paint. I'm not satisfied with the dirt effects (mainly on the tracks themselves) even though I think it's a step up from my previous efforts. I decided against using the kit-supplied base, as cool as it is, for a couple of reasons. It's a little too dramatic for my tastes and it's going to take more work than I'm willing to do to make it good. I'll probably swing by the craft store and grab a small wood plaque or picture frame and use it to build a little base to have the tank look like it's trundling down a dirt road on the Western Front. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  6. Turkish Infantry 1915-1918 ICM 1:35 This set brings us four figures. Two troops running, with one kneeling firing his rifle, and one officer kneeling with his pistol out. In the period leading up to WWI the Ottoman Empire decided to modernise its Army, but did so by buying equipment in, instead of arranging for domestic suppliers to do this. A German Army mission was invited to advise on this, and surprisingly they favoured German Army weapons, and German manufacturers. The standard infantry front line rifle was the M1903 Mauser bolt-action rifle, and the side arm the Mauser C96. This set from ICM brings us two sprues of caramac coloured plastic one for the figures, and one for the equipment with a selection of the the M1903 with and without a bayonet. The C96 holstered, and out of the holster with the holster separate. Other items on the sprues are Helmets, Bayonets, ammunition pouches, water bottles, grenades, a map case, and even binoculars and their case. A box with two sets of the equipment is also available here from ICM. Conclusion This is a good set which provides for any WWI Turkish diorama, or even a small stand alone vignette. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. http://www.portsmouth.co.uk/our-region/portsmouth/first-world-war-german-destroyers-found-in-portsmouth-harbour-1-7296572
  8. Eduard's now OOP 1/48 Fokker E.V, built mostly OOB save for the gorgeous Master turned brass MG cooling jackets and barrels. Lovely little kit, although getting the wing straight & level was a PITA. Constructive criticism welcome! Cheers, Tony Bell
  9. WWI Russian Maxim MG Team ICM 1:35 The set from ICM brings us a Maxim 1910 and a crew of two. 58 Maxims were purchased by the Imperial Russian Army in 1899 but then they contracted Vickers to make them in Russia. Even though the contract was signed in 1902 manufacturing only started in 1910. Due to these delays and the war with Japan in 1904 an additional 450 guns we purchased from overseas. The gun was supplied on a wheeled carriage. There is one sprue for the gun crew, two small sprues for the gun and carriage, and one sprue of Weapons & Equipment. This is one sprue from ICM 35672 WWI Russian Infantry Weapons and Equipment. Conclusion This is a good set which provides the gun and crew, it will make a nice little model/diorama in its own right, or can be used as part of a larger diorama. Its good to see ICM producing kits slightly out side the normal westen countries for WWI. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. WWI Turkish Infantry Weapons & Equipment ICM 1:35 In the period leading up to WWI the Ottoman Empire decided to modernise its Army, but did so by buying equipment in, instead of arranging for domestic suppliers to do this. A German Army mission was invited to advise on this, and surprisingly they favoured German Army weapons, and German manufacturers. The standard infantry front line rifle was the M1903 Mauser bolt-action rifle, and the side arm the Mauser C96. This set from ICM brings us two sprues of caramac coloured plastic with a selection of the the M1903 with and without a bayonet. The C96 holstered, and out of the holster with the holster separate. Other items on the sprues are Helmets, Bayonets, ammunition pouches, water bottles, grenades, a map case, and even binoculars and their case. Conclusion This is a good set which provides weapons and equipment for any WWI Turkish diorama, or even a German one given that most of the equipment is German. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. Davek72

    Eduard Fokker E.II

    I will join if I may. I have a couple of kits in the stash that qualify and having done some research I now know the difference between a rotary and a radial engine (yes I admit it I didn't know before but you live and learn). I am going to build the Eduard 1/48 WWI Fokker E.II. I should point out (a) I have never built a WWI plane before, (b) I have never done rigging on a plane before and (c) this looks quite fiddly. Fingers crossed. The kit. I understand its one of Eduard's older offerings but hopefully that doesn't mean problems. I will be building it OTB and have some E Z Line to try out for the rigging. The sprues. So far so good. And finally some photo etch and a very very small clear sprue. Thanks for looking. As always all comments very welcome. Cheers Dave
  12. Misterfriend

    Sopwith Pup - Airfix - 1/72

    Alright I'm in with a second build for this one, could be a risky proposition as quite often I don't finish one build in the time let alone two! I'm doing the old Airfix Sopwith Pup in 1/72. Picked it up for $5 on Ebay, only slightly more than the 99c price tag still on it. Lovely little kit, will be adding details, either scratch build or spares box. I would love Airfix to update this but not sure that would happen in the near future, HR do a very nice looking tool of the Pup in 1/72, it's little pricey and not very common on this side of the pond. Anyway, I have the warpaint book, Pheon decals set and the Wingnut Wings instruction sheet, one of the best references out there I think! Cheers
  13. Been enjoying watching the great builds in this GB and realised there's no plucky Tommies in the mix yet! So I'm going to jump in with a Sergeant, Royal Welsh Fusiliers, Ploegsteert 1915 by Tommy's War. I've made one of their figures before, for the Non-injected GB, and they are lovely, beautifully sculpted and molded. Not a huge amount to the construction, most of the work will be in the painting and I think I'll do a nice little base. Got some suitable reference material and am raring to go! Cheers Segan
  14. STEEL Seatbelts (Various) 1:48 & 1:72 Eduard Here's the latest batch of the newish STEEL seatbelts from Eduard. In case you don't already know, they are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. Seatbelts Italy WWII Fighters (FE826) Contains two sets of belts including the twin shoulder and single lap belt, with optional rear section. Seatbelts Italy WWII Fighters (SS594) in 1:72 Confusingly labelled as both 1:72 and 1:48 on the package, when in fact the 1:72 labelling is correct. This set contains three sets of belts including the twin shoulder and single lap belt, with optional rear section. Seatbelts France WWII (FE839) Three sets of four-point harnesses are included, with an optional central fifth point with buckle and alternate left lap strap minus the buckle found on the 4-point version. SE.5a Seatbelts Early (FE843) Two sets of belts for the famous WWI fighter, with diagrams showing where the laces attach on the airframe. Seatbelts Soviet Union WWII Fighters (FE846) Two sets each of Yakovlev and Lavochkin designed seatbelts for their respective fighters, each with four-point harness and buckles. Seatbelts France WWI (FE852) During WWI three types of belt were used up until 1916, with two of each type supplied. Two other types were used throughout the war, and again, two of each type are included, totalling 10 sets of belts, which is quite generous. You will need to supply the thin wire that connects the belt loops to the airframe, which is described in a scrap diagram in the instructions. Review sample courtesy of
  15. SE.5a Upgrade Parts (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Eduard's new tool kit of this famous WWI fighter is a little beauty and you can see our review here, but you can always itail, or budget. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. The Photo-Etch (PE) set arrives in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Two Blade Propeller (left 648296 Right 648297) Available in two flavours, spinning left and right, the clockwise rotating prop being applicable to the (at this time unkitted, although I believe the parts are in the box) Hispano-Suiza 8b engine, and the other for the Wolseley Viper engine variant. Pick your two-bladed prop and marvel at the detail, with a separate boss and spinner plate provided in PE. Left – Anti-Clockwise (648296) Right – Clockwise (648297) Radiator – Wolseley Viper (648298) This highly detailed resin replacement for the kit part consists of five resin parts and four PE parts, the former making up the body of the radiator, the latter providing the mesh detail for the panels for maximum detail. It is a straight-forward drop-in replacement for the kit part. SE.5a Guns (648299) Another drop-in replacement set for the kit, which consists of both the Lewis and the Vickers machine guns, plus the tripod mount for the cowling Vickers, and the over-wing mount for the Lewis gun, which also has two spare magazines of two different capacities. A small PE sheet includes a rack for a spare mag under the gun mount (over the instrument panel), the firing handle, sight and trough for the Vickers, plus blade sight for the Lewis gun. You will need two lengths of 0.2mm wire to complete the firing mechanism for the Lewis, which you will have to provide from your own stocks. SE.5a Stretchers (48915) This is the solitary PE set in this review, and at first the term "stretchers" might seem a bit obscure, but on reading the instructions it becomes clear. They are what I would call the turnbuckles that the aircraft's rigging is attached to, either in single runs, or doubles. As well as including three runs of thirty eight single loops, twenty seven of the double loops, there are also two templates provided to assist you in drilling the twin 0.3mm holes at the wing roots and the opposite ends under the upper wing. Turnbuckles are a handy short-cut for rigging, allowing the modeller to glue their chosen rigging material of choice in place without having to repair the paint-job after. The stretchers are glued into their holes during the build, after which the aircraft can be painted, and (with care) the rigging can be attached when main painting is completed. Review sample courtesy of
  16. SE.5a Wolseley Viper Profipak (82131) 1:48 Eduard The SE.5 was a huge improvement on early WWI fighters, although it originated in 1916 as an experimental scout aircraft, designed by Henry Folland amongst others, who went on to found Folland Aircraft. After some rather serious design problems that resulted in the death of one of the designers, the kinks were ironed out, and coupled with the powerful Hispano-Suiza engine, it became arguably the most capable fighter of the Great War. After a short run of the original SE.5, the A variant appeared with a more powerful engine with geared prop, but that led to more issues, including detachment of prop, gearbox or both whilst in flight. Wolseley were at this time producing an upgraded version of the engine that they named the Viper, which instead used a direct drive-shaft for the prop, which as well as resulting in reversed rotation, made for a more robust and reliable engine that was more prone to staying attached to its propeller. It became the de facto standard for the type due to its availability and reliability. There were a number of aces that flew the SE.5a, and coupled with the Camel, the aircraft helped the Allies to gain air superiority over the battlefield, with more American built aircraft scheduled to join the fray that were cancelled by the Armistice reducing their usefulness to nil. After the war many were sold into private hands and the type continued to be seen in the skies for years to come. The Kit This is a new tooling from Eduard, and that shows in the details that are immediately apparent when perusing the sprues. Arriving in one of their smaller kit boxes with the familiar orange Profipak branding, inside are two sprues in medium-dark grey styrene, a circular clear sprue, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of kabuki-style pre-cut masks, a large square decal sheet an A5 portrait colour instruction booklet with painting guide to the rear, printed on glossy stock. If you're not used to handling WWI aircraft, particularly fighters, you might forget just how small and delicate they were until you see the fuselage parts, which are scarcely 12cm long on the sprues (minus rudder etc.). There is no deficiency in detail on these small parts however, with lots of crisply executed stitching, ribs, hinges and fasteners depicted in a mixture of engraved and raised forms. The cockpit is also well detailed, with additions in PE bringing a level of realism that can seldom be achieved by us mortals otherwise, with PE belts and instrument panels, which are pre-painted with fine details to enhance the finish. The cockpit framework is inserted into a representation of the inner structural framing along with the seat, fuel tank, controls and cross-braces, which once painted in your preferred manner to simulate wood, are laced with bracing wires to further enhance the detail, but you will need to provide the necessary wires/thread. The cockpit floor is moulded into the lower wing, and here additional ammo cans are stored for the overwing Lewis gun, with another above the instrument panel, which has its plastic details removed before installation of the improved PE version. The dials are raised, so individual PE faces have been supplied on the fret, and great care will be needed to ensure these don't ping off into oblivion. The use of a pick-up pencil, fine tweezers or one of those little rubberised sticky-pads would be advisable, along with some careful positioning. With the cockpit installed in the lower wing, which is a one-piece arrangement by the way, the fuselage is then closed around the assembly, trapping a number of formers within the front section under the engine bay. The Viper engine is then built from parts, beginning with the sump, banks of pistons, rocker covers and exhaust manifold, to which some additional plug wires and other details could be added at your whim. There are two cowling choices for the engine, one of which is standard, with a bulkhead added, the other made up from the standard one with a scoop cut from a spare, and added after cutting the corresponding section from the original. This is only for the first markings option. The pilot's cockpit decking is also built up at this time, with a clear access panel on one side that is fitted with a PE surround, and a small winder with a PE handle at the joint with the main fuselage. These are both installed later after the upper fuselage section between them is added, and the separate ailerons and elevator fins are glued into their positions. At this point a number of clear triangular inspection windows are inserted into the wings and elevator fins, to show off the moulded-in control detail that will need painting beforehand. A choice of two types of elevator are offered, and the fuselage mounted machine gun is installed just prior to the top decking being closed up. A choice of curved or straight windscreen glass is given, and a simple sighting device with PE mounts is fitted to the top after filling in the slot for a simplified styrene version of the mount. The radiator is mated with the cowling as it is fitted, after which the upper wing is prepared for fitting. There are a few methods to successfully paint and rig your biplane, so I'll leave that decision up to you, but another set of clear inspection panels and PE surrounds are fixed into the wing before it is lined up with the struts and glued in place, usually after much of the painting and rigging is already completed. The ailerons are repeated on the upper wings, and PE arms are fitted, replacing the simple styrene pegs moulded into the parts. The fixed landing gear consists of an aerodynamic triangular frame on each side of the lower fuselage with an axle between them with an aerofoil section, but one markings option has simplified structure, to which you will need to add two lengths of 1mm stock to complete additional bracing struts, which isn't included in the kit. Once complete, it can be installed on the underside of the fuselage in sockets that should hold it firmly in position, and a similar attachment scheme is used for the tail bumper at the rear. The rudder is also fixed at this late stage, with a PE actuator rod replacing the styrene nub that is moulded in. Tail-wheel steering is the order of the day, and another actuator is added under the tail, again replacing the nub on that part too. For some reason the instructions then show more of the inspection windows and PE arms added at the end of the build, so feel free to skip to that point to avoid any issues. The Lewis gun and its mount is added to the upper wing right at the end with the circular magazine receiving a PE carry handle and outer face, while the muzzle gets a tiny iron sight. As one decal option doesn't carry the wing mounted gun, it should be filled, but as early in the build as possible to make life easier. A two blade prop is fitted to the Viper engine, and under the nose the SE.5a could carry a small rack of four bombs, which has been supplied on the included PE sheet as an extra. Happily for any Great War modeller, a full page of wiring diagrams are included on the last page of the instructions, with the wires picked out in blue against the airframe to make spotting them easier. Markings The basic colour scheme of most SE.5as was green/olive drab with a linen colour underside, and whatever personalisation the pilot applied to his ride. There are quite a variation on the theme with the provided options, partially because a couple of post-war airframes have been chosen. From the box you can build one of the following: SE.5a Wolseley Viper C1096, flown by Lt. H.J. Burden, No. 56 Squadron, Valheureux, France, Spring 1918 SE.5a Wolseley Viper F8146, 27th Aero Squadron, 1922 SE.5a Wolseley Viper F8953, flown by 2nd Lt. S.C. Elliot, No. 85 Squadron, Ascq, France, December 1918 SE.5a Wolseley Viper F8038, 25th Aero Squadron, November 1918 SE.5a Wolseley Viper C1149, flown by Cpt. D Grinnell-Milne, No. 56 Squadron, Béthencourt, France, Ascq, France, January 1919 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is a lovely little model, and even though I'm not really a WWI modeller, which some of you might have picked up on already, this one appeals to me greatly, as it comes from a time when aircraft were starting to look more purposeful, and less like a bundle of twigs with wings! Superb detail and some really nice decal options, plus the PE and masks round out the package to a rather appealing whole. Very highly recommended. If you can't resist the lure of some of the other decal options, or can't decide which you'd prefer to model, then the Overtrees that are available directly from Eduard might well be for you. Supplied in an anonymous white box with only a sticker on the end to tell you what's in the box, the kit contains just the plastic you see above and nothing else. Not even the instructions, as you've already got them in the Profipak kit anyway, or you can pick them up from their site here. What about the PE though? Not a problem – Eduard have you covered there as well, and you can buy the PE separately too. Overtrees Overtrees Photo-Etch That's not all! Watch out for reviews of some additional aftermarket sets by Eduard to fit their kits, such as a super-detailed radiator, props, guns and the turnbuckles and tensioners for the rigging that they describe as "Stretchers". Coming soon to a forum near you. Well, right here actually. Review sample courtesy of
  17. silver11

    Hanriot HD.1 Questions HR Models 1/72

    As I finished with Ansaldo, I'm concentrating my focus on finishing another long-standing project, another Italian bird Hanriot HD.1. I'm building a plane that was flown by Mario Fuchi, the plane has two machine guns and here are my questions: What type of synchronization mechanism might it have? I mean did it have "horn" on top of the muzzle or not? Also what about scoop underneath of the muzzle (I think it was a protection from shock wave from the gun)? I also have seen pictures where they present and absent as well. And final question did his plane had a sight, if yes what type? Thank you for any help. Alex
  18. A nice simple little build with a fairly terrible kit! Full album here:
  19. So my great adventure with the best kit I`ve built so far is over. I think Edgar and the whole CSM team has done a great job. My model depicts the G.4 used for artillery spotting in C.74 Franco/Belgian unit. Several modifications have been made such as Chauviere propellers, Colt machine gun, different gun mount. The superb quality decals with cowling numbers and different serial were printed by Melius Manu. As far as I know all these will be available at CSM soon. The colt gun is greatly detailed with a small PE.
  20. Here is the progress of my build of Ansaldo SVA 5 by Fly 1/72
  21. Krupp 21cm Mörser 10 in 1:35 scale from Takom. Finished with Ammo of Mig and Vallejo acrylics; MIG and AK Interactive enamels, 502 Abteilung oils, and MIG and Vallejo pigments. This model represents a German piece captured by Canadian soldiers of the 27th Battalion (City of Winnipeg) during the legendary Battle of Vimy Ridge in April 1917. After my Whippet build last month, I've definitely fallen in love with these First World War kits. When I started deciding which kits I would buy, this howitzer was definitely on the top of my list. I find subjects like this rather interesting; it's a niche (artillery), within a niche (First World War subjects), within a niche (armor modelling). I can honestly say that this is one of my favorite builds out of all the stuff I've done in my short time in the hobby. Like any build, there's things I like and things I don't like, but overall I think it turned out rather well. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  22. Fresh off the heels of my Whippet build, I decided to stick with the First World War theme and build this interesting little kit from Takom. The kit gives you two options for construction: the short-barreled 1910 model and it's replacement, the long-barreled 1916 model. I opted for the 1910 model because the color guide shows a piece captured by Canadian soldiers of the 27th Battalion (City of Winnipeg) during the Battle of Vimy Ridge in April 1917. Overall, this kit goes together well with no major issues. The biggest problem is the photo etch rifling for the barrel; it's kind of a pain because it's too large and rolling photo etch can be troublesome, but after trimming a couple of ridges off it went it much better. The two pins under the barrel housing snapped while I was attempting to remove them from the sprue, so they were replaced with brass rod. The support rods for the gun shield didn't quite fit so I cut them off and will replace them with styrene rod after assembly (the gun shield was left off for ease of painting). I also added a few extra bolts taken from the spares provided in the Whippet kit plus pins for the wheels and gun mount. I used Alclad grey primer and then preshaded with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63). The main color is Ammo of MIG Yellow Grey and the green is Pale Green mixed with Yellow Grey. A different green is listed in the color call-out, but the Pale Green is closer to the pictures provided. All of the chipping was done with Yellow Grey (over the green areas) and a mix of some Vallejo dark browns and black over everything else. The track pads were also painted with XF-63 separately from the wheels. After a brown filter was applied over the entire model to tone everything down and bring the colors together, the rivets and details were given a wash with Dark Green Grey panel line wash from Ammo of MIG's aircraft line and some streaking was applied with MIG Streaking Grime. After gluing the track pads to the wheels, I sponged on some Yellow Grey to simulate worn off paint. With a majority of the weathering done, the model was given a coat of gloss varnish to seal in the enamels and prep the surface for the two decals representing graffiti applied by Canadian troops to claim their prize (these are applied after weathering to show fresh paint). After the decals go on, I'll add more dirt buildup using oils and more enamels on the lower areas of the model.
  23. Takom's 1/35 scale Medium Mark A Whippet, completed as tank A321 serving near Achiet-le-Petit, France, in August 1918. Finished in Vallejo & Tamiya acrylics; MIG enamels; Abteilung 502 oils; and MIG, Secret Weapon Miniatures, and Vallejo pigments. This was my first entry into armor modeling and there are some things I don't like about the finished product and some things that I think turned out great, but overall I'm pretty happy with it. I've always been fascinated by the First World War and I think this will serve as a nice springboard into more models in this subject. (I've picked up this kit, the Meng Whippet, the Meng Renault FT, the Takom Krupp 21cm Mörser, and the Takom Mark V heavy tank kit in the last month!) Please feel free to tell me what I can approve upon as comments and criticism are always welcomed!
  24. Here's the Spin Sage 2; I have a 'work in progress' article on this unique aircraft in the 'wip' area. Rigging done with fishing line and ceramic wire. Am thinking for the moment I 'might' have the only one of these built in Omaha. Here's a history of the Sage 2. http://www.aviastar.org/air/england/sage-2.php
  25. AnonymousDYB

    Mk 1V

    Hi Any ideas on colour schems for these tanks?? Seen Grey from factory and painted Dark Brown in the field Camouflage??? Russian colours?? Ta D
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