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Found 116 results

  1. This is my first attempt at a Work in Progress so please bear with me on this one. After my last couple of tank builds became somewhat bothersome at the track stage I thought it was time to build something without tracks. I was going to build Miniart's B-Type lorry but I found the bus too tempting with plenty of scope for different weathering such as broken glass windows and worn down to the wood paint work etc. I think I will need to work on my figure painting skills as this is crying out for some war weary soldiers to be added in a small diorama. I will need to do some research on the subject though as it's not something I've really taken an interest in before. I have 'borrowed' some history notes from The London Transport Museums friends page. https://www.ltmuseumfriends.co.uk/projects/friends/project/24/battle+bus Introduced in 1910, when most buses were still horse-drawn, the London General Omnibus Company (LGOC) B-type was London’s most successful mass-produced motorbus, able to cope with operating conditions in the chaotic and overcrowded city. Building on lessons learned from earlier motor vehicles, the B-type quickly earned a reputation for mechanical reliability, helping to establish the motorbus as a practical vehicle for daily urban service in London. After the outbreak of war in 1914, London buses, along with their drivers and mechanics, were commandeered for the war effort. The buses were fitted with protective wooden boarding and painted khaki for camouflage. The buses transported troops to and from the Front Line and were put to use as ambulances and even mobile pigeon lofts. Nearly 1,200 LGOC vehicles went on war service, most to France and Belgium, with some travelling as far afield as Egypt. I wont do much in the way of sprue shots etc as all of this can be seen on MiniArts web page. https://miniart-models.com/products/39001-b-type-military-omnibus/ The box is certainly packed with parts though. All of the parts come tightly packed in one plastic bag and one of the rear fenders has snapped as a consequence, considering how delicate some of the parts are I was surprised that there wasn't more damage. I have to say that the quality and detail of the mouldings is exceptional and apart from one sprue that obviously has a mould issue there appears to be no flash, ejection pin marks or difficult sprue gates which will be a welcome change from Takom's Mk.10 Chieftain that I have just parked in the painting queue. I'm a little unsure of moulded wood effects, I often find them a little over done however I think MiniArt's representation would probably not look too bad once painted. I shall look more at that when I get there. Some of the parts look as though they could cause a little bit of stress in trying to remove them without breaking them, fortunately I have a brand new set of sprue cutters on their way to me. I'm really looking forward to getting started on this one. I'm not expecting it to be a particularly quick build but hopefully once I have started it will be one of those kits that I just can't put down. Wayne
  2. Here I post this British 18pdr, built and painted by my father. I found the camouflage and made the pictures . Not many first world war kits in 1/35, so when we saw this in a model kit exhibition at just 5 € we snatched it. Sad that the crew is just 3, five would have been more like it. Placed upon an improvised diorama. The kit is very simple, but looks quite good all the same. If all were so simple, we would have a few thousands more in house!
  3. Doing it again I'm afraid..... Will hopefully turn into a cleaner version of this.
  4. First effort at posting some drawings. I'll build it bit at a time if it works. Any feedback more than welcome. RAL First one's a bit contrasty for a pencil drawing?
  5. The Aviatik 30.40 was a prototype Austro-Hungarian interceptor from 1918 and this is my build of the Alliance Models 1/48th limited run kit. I have always thought this to be an attractive little aircraft especially with it's interesting two tone grey low-vis camouflage. There only being a few parts in the kit I was hoping for a straight forward build, but as is often the way with limited run kits there was a lot more work than there appeared to be at first glance. I added as much detail to the cockpit as I could based on photos from similar Aviatik aircraft from the period and as usual little of it can be seen now. Seat belts are from Eduard and a couple of generic dials were added to the instument panel. All the flying surfaces were sanded to remove the exaggerated rib detail and to thin the trailing edges. The distinctive washout on the ailerons was added by gently heating them and bending into shape. The engine was replaced by one I found in the spares box. With some additional wiring and plumbing although not 100% accurate it's passable, especially as it's mostly hidden behind the cowling. The struts supplied were rather thick and over sized so these were replaced with brass Strutz material, soldered where strength was required. The spoked wheels are Eduard items robbed from another kit and I drilled out the kit wheels to get the tyres. Not perfect but good enough. The propeller is made from wood veneers. After looking at the photos I realised it wasn't fixed which is why it looks a little crooked in some views. The paint was my own mix of Mr.Color paints. The hardest part of the build was trying to replicate the machined aluminium cowling and panels and I'm still not really happy with the way they turned out. As always critique and advice welcomed. Wayne.
  6. Morane-Saulnier type 'N' Bullet. 1/32 Special Hobby The Morane Saulnier Type N first flew in May 1914, well before the outbreak of the Great war and was designed as a racer rather than a combat aircraft. Although a fairly modern looking machine, it lacked ailerons and used wing warping instead. The tailplane was all moving and only the rudder was hinged on the fin. It was fitted with a Hotchkiss machine gun which was not synchronized to fire through the spinning propeller, rather it used two large steel wedges to deflect the bullets off it. Thus equipped, a small number of them entered service in 1915 and although not popular to fly, they did help end the 'Fokker Scourge' of the German Eindekkers. The RFC bought a small number and also used them to effect. The kit is from Special Hobby, and even at 1/32 scale is quite small. I really like Special Hobby kits, they are very well moulded and fit together very well. This one comes with a resin engine, propeller, ammo belts and minor accessories. Also included is a nice etched brass sheet with engine details, seatbelts and turnbuckles for the brave to use! But the inexplicable thing is that nowhere in the kit are the large & prominent 'MS' circular logos that go on the cowling. Nada, Nothing, Zilch, not even anything on the decal sheet. This is a serious omission and I'm baffled why Special Hobby didn't provide them on the etch sheet. All is nit lost though, as Tom's Modelworks in the USA do a neat photo etched pair that you simply must get if building this kit. I have no connection with Tom's Modelworks, but must praise them for excellent service. I ordered the etched logos in the UK on a Saturday, and they arrived from the US the following Thursday. Amazing and much appreciated. The kit Instructions (and the Eduard 1/48 kit) show this particular aircraft as having red painted cow;ing/spinner areas on the fuselage. Reading the Windsock datafile, this seems very unlikely. All Morane-Saulnier aircraft of this period were finished with black enameled metalwork, and this is how they were supplied to the French Air Force and Royal Fling Corps. It was the RFC that initially repainted the black areas in red, to distinguish their machines from the Pfalz and Fokker Eindekkers. Later deliveries to the RC were painted red at the factory, but I am convinced that French machines remained with the black finish, so that is how I have done my model. The wing ribs were covered with thin bamboo strips of a lighter colour, I used Wingnut Wings German 'linen' rib tape decal strips. I spotted the Blackdog 'Escadrille Lafayette pilot' on the big H website and though he might go rather well with this and my SPAD V.II (when I get around to building it !). There were no painting instructions so I had to google a lot of it. Anyway, I hope you like it, it was a very enjoyable build. Thanks for looking, John
  7. This is my build of the Hobby Boss SMS Seydlitz. For Some reason this kit has largely been ignored by the aftermarket manufacturers. There is now an imminent release of a full detail upgrade set from Infini, but this was not available at the time I started this build. A a result this is almost a straight box build with Infini mast replacements and the gorgeous Scaledecks laminate decks. An unusual looking ship, and that was the attraction along with the prominent red rear funnel. This is a selection of pictures of the build so far... [ Jase
  8. Kick-off Hello, I have spent the last 6 months working on a scratchbuilt Mig 15 and that project is now drawing to a close. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012524-mig-15-scratchbuild/& Consequently, I've been thinking a lot about my next project and after much deliberation, including considering a very, very wide range of possible subjects, I have decided to try something completely different to my usual aviation related fare. I am going to try to build His Majesty's Australian Submarine AE2. This is a project that I has been in the back of my mind for over a decade now and when a fellow modeller offered to lend the following set of plans to me, all thoughts of other projects evaporated. In my view Allied submarines in WW1 are under represented in the modelling world, so I'm going to try to do my little bit to correct this. AE2 was an early E-Class submarine operated by the Royal Australian Navy. On the evening of 25 April 1915 (while the Gallipoli landings were underway) she successfully penetrated the extremely formidable Turkish defences in the Dardenelles Straight and proceeded to 'run amok' in the sea of Marmara. During a short-lived but very intensive period of raiding she caused considerable disruption to Turkish attempts to reinforce and supply their defences on the Gallipoli peninsula. On the 30th of April AE2 was damaged by the Turkish torpedo boat Sultanhisar and, unable to dive to safety, her captain decided to scuttle her. All hands survived the scuttling and spent the rest of the war as P.O.W's in Turkey where they suffered terribly. Four of the vessel's compliment of 32 died during their incarceration. In 1998 the wreck of the AE2 was located and found to be in remarkably good condition, mostly due to it's partial immersion in anoxic mud. A thorough campaign to preserve the wreck in-situ continues to this day. The possibility of recovering the wreck has been discussed at length, and although probably technically feasible would be a very high risk and highly expensive project. So - in the meantime a model will have to do! I have not yet started any physical construction - so there's not a lot to see yet but, most unlike me, I have been conducting some additional research. And just as well too because it turns out that the drawings above are for a mid-war configuration E-class submarine which in some significant regards was different to the early war AE2. For example, the mid war submarine had a gun mounted ahead of the conning tower and had two forward torpedo tubes instead of AE2's single tube. There are other differences also. Suffice to say that this set of plans from the RAN's historical page on their website will help me nail down the correct configuration. The model itself will be: 1 / 100 scale Waterline - surface trim Scratchbuilt - although I might resort to some aftermarket details here and there. It will not be a cutaway (despite various people suggesting the idea) Predominantly made from wood, but expect to see some brass and plastic sheeting and a few other bits and pieces as well. I am hoping to have physical construction under-way this week and am aiming to have it finished by the end of 2017 but really don't have any idea how long this will take as I'm completely new to this maritime modelling lark. My plan for this job is basically to 'muddle through' so any encouragement and expert advice from the sidelines will be most appreciated! Best Regards, Reconcilor
  9. Hallo again In summary a nice model, a real challenge. A good kit from WNW, with some surprises included. My last WNW model. I choose spraying the camouflage, to prevent working with decals. You never know, if there are troubles with decals, it is too late. I learned my lessons already. Never trust any instruction! At the very end, surprise, surprise! How to install the gun? Because the holding D18 prevents rotating! It is so foolish. The cramped front position with the bombs vertically, no space left, and the gun looks tangential outboard! The kit part D18 is a flaw. The lower door, is actually closed by a spring. And as I read in Flight International after capture, no gun position was there either. The bomb installation opens questions, but no suitable answer in the instruction. So I left my outboard bombs at home! Well, dear modeler, never trust any instruction and be prepared for real astonishment. It is like an ambush! Stay ready to improve, and you may win! If you like crossword puzzle, so take WNW instruction, they are a puzzle. For rigging: Everything is written in my post, to create the same rigging as I did on this AEG! Happy modelling
  10. dov

    Rigging

    Rigging As rigging material, I will promote today only these materials, which succeeded after two decades. All other materials I do not mention. As material I use today the product from Modelkasten. http://store.modelkasten.com/shopbrand/rigging/ https://hlj.com/search/go?w=modelkasten rigging&view=grid The 0.6 and 1.5 elastic rigging I use. Rigging has two faces. One is static, the other ones are control cables. The static rigging we will watch first. Here check the landing gear wires. Look for the proper rigging points. If you got it, you may start. As an example in 1/32: The stretch filament must be fixed at the inaccessible eyelet first. With a knot. Fixed with CA just to secure. Than stretch it tight without using the flexibility of the filament. Than stretch it for 5mm and fix it with a knot. Not more! Because the summary of filaments would cause a tremendous force. Secure it with CA! CA is by all occasions just a tool to secure and never to fix! If you do not believe it, after several years your WW1 a/c should be rigged properly and unharmed. Always the inaccessible eyelet first! If you go to the wing. Check all rigging points and but your eyelets in before you assemble 1. The landing gear 2. Tail wing rigging, if existing 3. The cabane struts rigging 4. X wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port 5. Flying wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port. If double wires, so do both! 6. Landing wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port. If double flying wires, so take care that it runs properly! 7. Fuselage to wing rigging if present Happy modelling
  11. Hallo again This is my Albatros in 1/32: Happy modelling
  12. Hallo again Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  13. Hallo again This is my DH2 from Roden in 1/32. Here is the rigging a particular thing. I designed the strut support plates, on CAD. In cooperation with Cooperstate Models, they produced these parts. I did this design work voluntarily. It was the idea, to create for all WW1 model a/c these strut support plates. To achieve easier rigging. Moreover, to prevent drilling the wing. On the same way, I did the Be2c in 1/48 and the DH2 in 1/48. However, in the state of assembling the DH2 the troubles did not show up. The strut support plates I glued with CA on the wing. As I need them, for the static rigging. The gluing of struts I did with CA, because of the pin diameter & hole diameter from the Roden kit. In this case, the DH2 I got along because I did all gluing with CA. Well, I have to mention, that the assembly was very difficult. Today I improved the etched parts. I build the Be12 in 1/48, but here I failed. I glued the etched parts with CA and the struts with Tamiya glue. I did not get along. The gluing process is the problem. As a verdict: As long as you only use CA, it is ok. However, here I see the problem for bigger scales. With CA, there is no chance for drying alignment or a dry fit since you need bigger holes and the struts may not be in place for more than a second. I have no solution yet for gluing the struts with Tamiya glue; so I gave up. Maybe some days I have an idea, but not yet. Happy modelling
  14. Hallo again Here is my LVG C.VI in 1/32 Happy modelling
  15. Hallo again This Salmson I built some time ago. Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  16. Hallo again This is my Fokker E IV. In scale 1/32 from WNW. Happy modelling
  17. Hallo again Here is one Sopwith Dolphin in 48. Enjoy the photos. Happy modelling
  18. Hallo again This is my Roland D.VIb in 1/32: Happy modelling
  19. Hallo again This kit is scale 32. Not easy! Happy modelling
  20. Hallo again Now I finished my Stahltaube from WNW. Actually it was not an easy kit. My first small fault was a front bulkhead, which was misaligned. Here I had to do some restoration work at the front part of the fuselage. Well, after this my next challenge was the filling process. I usually worked with Surfacer. Here, it did not work at all. So I went on with super glue, as my husband told me to try. This worked perfect. So, after all this, the paint job was next. Here I was in the wonderful situation, to have close examined a replica of the Etrich Taube, some years ago. So I could adapt some ideas for coloring the wings. Well, after a long nerving battle, the Taube I finished yesterday. Happy modelling
  21. Hallo again With self designed strut support plates. A new idea. Happy modelling
  22. Hallo again This is my Pfalz D.XII in 1/32 Happy modelling
  23. Hallo again: Here please is my DFW C.V in 1/32: Happy modelling
  24. Hallo again, This kit is a joy! Really. If anybody wants to know how to do the rigging, just ask. I will explain it! There is nothing to say, as the kit is perfect. Happy modeling
  25. Hallo again Here is my Fe2b. From WNW in 1/32. I did all after I did the Dh2 in 32 and 48. Therefore, I was a little more experienced. Well, WW1 a/c are a challenge and I like it sometimes more as a jet. Depends on my mood. Fun to build. Nice to grasp the rigging. Happy modelling
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