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Found 15 results

  1. This has taken months and I am feeling pleased to have completed it. My first go at any sort of rigging - achieved thanks to the helpful tips from guys on this forum. It's very satisfying when it all comes together at the end.
  2. RMS Carpathia In 1912 Harold Thomas Cottam was the RMS Carpathia's wireless operator. Early in the morning of 15th of April, whilst Carpathia was Eastbound in the North Atlantic, he was about to retire to bed following a long but entirely routine shift. Instead of going to bed however, purely on an impulse, he decided to send a courtesy message to Titanic regarding some undelivered commercial messages that he intended to relay on his next shift. Instead of receiving a polite nod of thanks from Titanic - he received this... 'Come at once. We have struck a berg. It's a CQD OM.' CQD = 'All Stations - Distress!' Carpathia's Captain - Arthur Rostron - was immediately alerted and, despite the extraordinary improbability of the events that were unfolding, he quickly grasped the situation and realised that he was within range to help. He turned Carpathia toward the Titanic's last stated position and ran her at speeds exceeding the ship’s nominal maximum through hazardous waters known - self evidently - to contain dangerous icebergs. Carpathia arrived at the scene of the disaster approximately four hours later - just before sunrise. Heartbreakingly she was too late for the 1503 souls that died that night. She was however able to recover 705 survivors and following a harrowing journey deliver them safely to New York city. Of the several ships associated with the Titanic disaster Carpathia was really the only one with her reputation enhanced in any way. For this reason it is perhaps a little surprising that she is not modelled more frequently. After all she is the hero in the most famous episode in maritime history. Right now however, as some of you will know, I'm in the middle of scratch-building an Avro 504k in 1/32 scale and I'm greatly enjoying the challenge, Here's the WIP if you are interested. So why am I sitting here writing about Carpathia? Well, the Avro project is going well but is progressing very slowly and is about to enter, yet another difficult phase involving cockpits and struts and rigging and what-not... I was hoping to have the Avro ready for the Western Australian Model Expo in May 2019 but, frankly that's looking very unlikely. So I've decided to have a crack at a quicker build that, for the time being, will take priority - RMS Carpathia, Scratch built in 1/500 scale. Here's a book on the subject - just to prove I can read And here are the plans - enlarged from 1/1200 scale from John Bowen's excellent publication 'More Miniature Merchant Ships'. And here is the first cut in the entire project. And the wood selected for the hull - superb stuff this - maybe even as good as bass wood for carving... When doing fuselages and hulls and other symmetrical things I like to temporarily glue two even halves together at the start of the project. This creates a natural centre line to work from but I'm still be able to split the two halves apart later on if need be. For example when it comes to fitting the masts and other centreline accruements. If you follow the thread you'll see what I mean. I've decided to cut the sheer first. The sheer - nautical term that! It means the lovely curve along the top of the hull. I'm using a bench sander for this job as the thickness of the wood is just a whisker too great for my little bandsaw. Besides - belt sanders are fun! It leaves this effect. A nice even curve running the entire length of the hull and a smooth top surface onto which to stick... This! Note how the join in the wood allows us to get the plan's centreline dead in the middle of the job. And now we can cut this... (using a bandsaw of course) and use the bench sander to sand the correct rake on the stem of the ship's bow. Fire up the bandsaw again to start shaping the Carpathia's beautiful 'counter-stern' - which I fear is going to be one of the tricky bits in this build. A bench sander is essential for this kind of work - perhaps even as important as a bandsaw! After about two hours work we have this roughed out initial shape of the Carpathia's hull. Not a bad return on a minimal time investment I reckon. I'm going to try to complete this model quickly. I don't want to mess around too much. 2019 is shaping up to be a hectic year for me so on the brief occasions I'll get out into my 'factory' I'm aiming to get a fair bit done. This is a labour of love - but it's not going to be the work of a perfectionist! Hope to see all my old maritime mates back showing an interest in this one! Very Best Regards, Bandsaw Steve.
  3. Hi, I am trying to build the Revell Titanic and it has simple rigging on it. I have got to a part where I have to thread two pieces of he supplied cord through one 0.5mm hole. I am really struggling to do this and am wondering if anyone has any tips. I ave to thread two cords through one hole in the deck in order to support the masts :-) Apologies if there is already something on the forum about this but I cannot find it. Thanks A frustrated modeller!
  4. Masts for the RMS Titanic and Olympic 1:350 Master Models Master models continue to build up their range of 1:350 scale accessory sets. They are well up to the standard we’ve come to expect from Master Models, but be aware, these items are very sharp, and once fitted to the model could catch someone’s face/eyes if there look too closely. [350-100] This set is designed for the Titanic and Olympic, doesn’t matter which manufacturer they are from. It consists of the foremast and main mast, gooseneck fittings for the foremast derrick, jackstaff and ensign staff. There is also a small etched sheet which contains a new crows nest and navigation light holder, for the foremast. You will need to add some reinforcement under the deck for the masts to sit in but this shouldn’t be a problem for most modellers. Once rigged, and the instructions show clearly how the masts are rigged, they will look much better than the plastic items in the kit which are quite oversized. Conclusion This is a nice easy way to give your big liners that little bit of finesse that makes a nice model look great. The masts are much more to scale than plastic can ever be moulded. With the addition of the other parts it will give that quality look to you r finished model. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  5. Greetings all, My first ever visit to this bit of the forum - having found some arm-bands just in case I was inspired, by the wonderful Titanic builds I had seen on here recently, to have a go at a ship model - only my second ever,and the first was some 45+ years ago ('Royal Sovereign' if I remember rightly, where I was the willing helper whilst my late step-father did most of the work). It follows, therefore, that expectations as to build quality, should not be that high! From researching the Titanic, and her lesser-known sister ships Olympic and Britannic, I found that the Britannic had been fitted out as a hospital ship during WW1, whilst the Olympic was a troop ship. I had an idea to do a 'what if' type representation of the Titanic, supposing that had the ship survived to the outbreak of war, she would almost certainly have been pressed into some kind of service. Having primed everything with my traditional Halfords car body spray, I then painted the bottom of the hull with a red oxide primer colour: I then had a small but significant change of plan - I decided that I would make it into some kind of simple sea-scape, which of course necessitated that I cut the bottom of the hull off! From this, you will have correctly determined that planning is not my strong point I then decided to completely respray everything with white! I then painted the deck sections with a thinned down tan colour: Obviously with a small scale kit such as this, the build phase was fairly straightforward: Prior to fitting any of the more delicate bits, I decided to try and paint the green stripe and red crosses, in the manner of the various photos of Britannic. I did so by hand, which is probably fairly obvious! The photos of Britannic showed that there were crosses mounted on the deck rails adjacent to the first and fourth funnels on either side. I made some from some pieces of styrene strip: I then made up and painted the four funnels: The funnels, and the cranes were then fitted: Finally, the masts and the additional red crosses I made earlier. You can't see them very well, but I also applied the decals: So that's where I am as of this evening. I hope to try and fit some cables etc, and maybe a bit of weathering - but that's for another time! Thanks for watching
  6. Finally, after 4 1/2 months of joy, pain, money, hair pulling and rows with she who must be obeyed I have finally finished my first model! Pretty happy with how this turned out. More than a few errors but nothing that stands out unless your nose is touching plastic! The kit was ok but nothing special. Lots of flash and quite a few badly fitting parts as well as accuracy issues but not an absolute dog either. Few scratchbuilt parts including the masts, additional and revised rigging, extra detailing on the forecastle deck and bridge. Hopefully i've addressed a few of the accuracy issues but many remain. Still, it looks a lot like the Titanic. And i'm glad of that because the ship was a beauty! The WIP: Some pictures of the model... Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Time for a break and then it's onto some aircraft...
  7. BluesModeller

    Revell 1:400 Titanic

    Hi Folks, as promised in my introduction in the New Members section here is my build progress on the Revell 1:400 Titanic. The kit is this one: Comes with some nice extras such as postcards, photos as well as some basic paints and glue. When I first inspected the kit three years ago I noticed a large gap at the stern section. For whatever reason it had shrunk to just a couple of mm after a few years on top of a wardrobe and didn't present much of a hassle when gluing together. First things first, the hull (In black plastic, everything else white) and the stand where glued together and details such as the propellers, rudder and anchors were added: Stern by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Stern by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Stern by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Although not visible in any of my photos, I added some sprue to strengthen the inside of the hull. Probably not needed but......
  8. Will be moving onto fitting the Masts to my 1/400 Titanic in the next couple of weeks and I'm not overly optimistic the styrene Masts are going to work with the rigging. Way, way to much flex so no hope of doing nice, tight rigging. I'm thinking of cannibalising a couple of paint brushes that are close to the size and shape I need. Nothing a Dremel and some sandpaper won't take care of. However, how to fit? What would be be the best glue to join wood and plastic? CA? Should I place a small block under the deck for the mast to sit in or something else? Any way to strengthen the original kit Masts? I know some have soldered brass rods of various diameters, but that's beyond me at the moment. If if any of you used or made replacement Masts for your models how did you go about it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  9. revell titanic kit,hunter wood deck and rainbowE were used to build this model.How to post my photos?
  10. Hey guys! I'm starting my next project R.M.S Titanic by Revell in 1/1200 scale and I will post some pictures here during the progress. For starters:
  11. Academy have a great selection of new releases available to order now through our online store. This release includes ships, aircraft and military vehicles. Of particular note is the 1/700 RMS Titanic with LED Lighting Set and the 1/35 Israeli Magach 7C Gimel. For full details, please see our newsletter.
  12. Hi Everyone, I have for a long time been interested in the Olympic class ocean liners built by the White Star Line at the Harland & Wolff Shipyards in Belfast - Olympic, Titanic and Britannic. Now I have built a Revell model of the Titanic, maybe considering the Olympic. I was just wondering if anyone knows if it would be possible for me to get my hands on decals for the Britannic, the 3rd ship in the class ? I am considering making all 3 ships. I know that my Titanic model is larger than 1:700 scale as I believe it is around 50 cm in length. The current Revell Titanic and Olympic models are made in 1:700 scales. Can anyone suggest where I could get the decals for Britannic ? Thanks, Rick
  13. Hi all, I have been working hard on our house since the move but I have found the time to squeeze in a few small projects here and there. A failed attempt at a train (lost bits during the move), a couple of Battlestar Viper models that I enjoyed and then this…the RMS Titanic 1/700 from Revell. Overall I really enjoyed the build, not too many issues to sort. A bit fiddly in places and the transfers went all silver on me (against the black) – if anyone has any ideas on this please let me know! For your enjoyment. Thanks for looking. Leigh.
  14. Hi everyone Yet another of my 'lit' models. This time the Titanic. I had great fun building this one as there was plenty of head scratching when it came to getting the light to shine throughout the ship. By the time I had finished, the kit must have weighed half of its original weight. I used fibre optics for the mast lights but they didn't seem to come out too well in pictures (and my photography skills are way, way behind my modeling skills) and the navigation lights may be too bright for a ship from that era but that's something which can be remedied another time. Though it is not as good as others on here, the most important thing is that it was fun and enjoyable to build. Kevin
  15. Hi everyone For those that saw my post with the pictures of the finished product (Ready for Inspection - Maritime / Revell 1/400 scale Titanic with lights) I thought that the diagrams below may help them to see how fairly easy it is to do. Below are the pictures of how I cut away sections of the kit to allow light to flow from the hull and throughout the ship. The worst job was to drill out all of the portholes and the windows along the walls on the decks. I covered the whole of the inside of the hull with silver foil to reflect the light upwards and then just added about six 5mm led's. Kevin
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