Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'tips'.
Found 8 results
-
Hello modeller friends, FLY Models caused quite a stir when they released their 1/32 Hurricane in April 2016. By a general consensus on the modelling forums, it's the best Hurricane on the market: accurate shape, good dimensions, adequate surface detail and unbeatable bang for the buck, etc… One question remains: HOW DOES IT BUILD? Strangely there are but a very few WIP's (one on this very forum) on the internet for such a popular model. Furthermore they all stopped still after a few instalments. What happened? Is there a monster glitch out there waiting for the unwary modeller? I decided
-
Hi All A fellow modeller (Paolo6691) asked me if I could give some tips on how to make seat belt buckles, like those I did for my Gnat and Fokker Dr. I builds. I gave him some tips but I thought I should post them here. Maybe these tips are useful for other modellers. I don't use any special tools, just a pair of straight-nose tweezers for bending the wire and a nº 11 x-acto blade to cut it. I've been using wires from a multi-threaded electrical cable, which are reasonably thin and not too rigid nor too flaccid. I hold the wire between my index finger and thumb, as straight as possible, an
- 8 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- seat belts
- buckles
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi All This is the latest in an ongoing series of noob questions: I've just read about oil dot weathering, it looks a relatively simple and effective technique for subtle weathering and I'm keen to give it a go on my next model (a Tsetse fly Mossie). Before I go shopping- what oils do people recommend buying, and what colours should I get? I see burnt umber mentioned a lot on t'internet... I'm in the UK, so that will influence my shopping choices. Also, are there any obvious pitfalls I should avoid before I have a crack at it? E.g. I like to paint with acrylic paints, not sure if that mak
-
Hello, I'm a lapsed plastic model kit builder. Previously I concentrated on aircraft, mainly WW2 fighters, Cold War jets and a couple of years a go, a Huey (which I lost patience with!!). Having thought about getting back into kits, I wanted a new challenge and had thought about ships. I decided to bite the bullet after visiting the fantastic Vasa Museum in Stockholm recently. The well stocked gift shop had both the Airfix and Revell kits for sale, although at rather inflated Swedish prices! I decided to do a bit of research on getting back home and plumped for the Revell kit. Apparently th
- 5 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Vasa
- historic vessels to 1914
- (and 1 more)
-
Tips and Tricks Always keep everything that came in the box of the model. Even the modelling box itself. As you see in the third picture you can cut to size a anti-tank trap. You can do several other things with that unused plastic around the edges or use parts that were unused in the last model. You'll understand left over parts if you buy a Dragon model. I know for a fact that you'll always have left over parts from them. One last thing, you create the anti-tank trap by cutting to size as I had already said and then cutting them up a little more for an added effect than you glue two of
-
Hello there! This is my first post after my introduction post, and also my first scale model that I'll be building. So I grabbed the spitfire starter set for £6.99 from WHSmith. I was planning to build it over the christmas holidays, but I couldn't resist myself from trying out the painting and stuff. I've just done a few things, but I'm done for now until christmas (hopefully ) so that I can do my university work. So, find attached some snaps of the progress so far . Pictures: First look at the box: First look at the pieces on the sprue(I was quite excited at this point): Figuring
-
I am currently building this model, that I have had stashed away for a couple of years, any tips
-
I needed to strip the old paint of a badly wore out diecast toy, not a problem, I have done it before and never had a problem. Last time I did it, I used to use Brake fluid, but, they have changed the formula to a more "green friendly" substance and the stuff will no longer touch paint. So, decided to go to extreme, Nitromors, I immersed the item in the green gunge for about 2 hours and when I pulled it out, the paint was hardly touched. I did a Google search on the stuff and found out from one of our sister forums that the company changed the formulae in 2010 and removed some harmful subst
