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Found 8 results

  1. Well it is part of a ship... Something to pose and photo my builds on. Short WIP link at the bottom. Summary - Built without Jet Blast Deflector (JBD) section. Retextured with Mr Surfacer 500. Painted with stynylrez black and grey. Masked and sprayed Foul line and JBD edge (hataka) but decal around control hatch. Mixed Dark grey to chip lines. Alclads for cat track. Vallejo washes and pigments for weathering. Some pics - TET bottle for size comparison. With some builds to get an idea of how jets look against the blacktop - TPS and gull together - Well seriously now - Parked/swept wings leave plenty of space even with the large F-14. Could possibly get two A7’s or legacy hornets on it. Defo with the added JBD (flat, not raised) section. Gull grey Slugger - Slightly controversial FS36495 Sundowner. I have a pic confirming shade, just can’t share it here due to copyright. And lastly TPS. Also a wings out one lined up with cat so you can see how much real estate there is. The base will be longer with JBD, but no wider so there is wing overhang. From above - Thanks for looking. Tony WIP -
  2. Here is something from several months back, only got round to taking pics recently. Built for fun to cure a bit of spitfire/bf109 AMS, and also as a tribute to the 11 years I spent in South Africa between the ages of 7-18. Hobbyboss kit OOB, in the lesser seen SAAF markings. Just added a seatbelt decal from spares. Plane is finished in the clean and shiny 70/80's style. Think they went matt camo and a bit more low viz with the markings around the angola war? So the kit only comes with the no step in french 'Ne pas marcher' for the wings, it doesn't have the correct 'keep off/bly af' bi-lingual that the SAAF ones have. So I improvised as on the later paintjobs they have a boot with an X through it. I had something similar on a mig 21 sheet so used those. So its not entirely accurate there. Build wasn't too bad. Just tricky around the intakes and nose wheel bay, also where lower wing meets along rear fuselage. Some filling and rescribing was required. Paintjob- Primed with stynylrez. Alclad aluminium on nose. Vallejo metal color used elsewhere. Jet exhaust on the obvious, Aluminium in bays and inside of doors, Dull aluminium for u/c legs and white aluminium for drop tanks. Main colors were a compromise with my ww2 Xtracrylics stuff to get matches as close as I could to save getting new ones. So the undersides in light admiralty grey is actually RLM 76 blue in thin layers over the grey primer. Upper buff is a mix of RAF middlestone and RLM 79 sand. And the olive drab is a mix of RLM 83 dark green and RLM 81 brown violet. Hard edge masking done with maskol. Tedious but worth it. Normal varnish process to seal decals etc and a light weathering with various washes to compliment the colours (earth/black on uppers and deep grey/blue grey on lowers) All sealed in with Xtracrylics Satin. Any comments/criticism please feel free Hope you like it.
  3. Sold end of May 2019 Hi folks, welcome to the RFI of my 5th completed tomcat from this WIP, this particular bird on pages 11 to 13. This build is done as a pre launch cat, all hooked up and ready to go, engines idling at military power with nozzles closed. It is rare to see cats like this, as 99% of pics are took with the flaps and slats down, which I understand were only deployed just before actually launching. (They would have been tested in pre flight checks) The reason for this I read on another forum is that the hydraulic motor that deploys them isn't cooled when the plane is on the ground (undercarriage weighted) So there was a risk of it burning out and then the plane has flap/slat lock out, which means then the wings can't sweep back. The plane would then take up lots of room on deck while it was fixed etc. Big job I imagine. So that's how I can get away with not having to rework the wings for flaps and slats cause this option isn't provided with these HB kits. Anyways, this scheme/decals came from a Hasegawa tomcat - the 'F14B Lantirn' boxing. Some homemade decals inside the nozzles and on the Lantirn pod. This build had the following improvements: To the base plastics: -Arrestor hook shortened. -Fuel dump drilled out. -Nose pitot join 'fixed' -Box on nose gear drilled out with a 0.3mm bit for the 3 lights. -ECM bumps upper edge of intake reduced to match references. -Drop tank mounting holes moved rearwards and outwards. -Wing sweep bladders built up with milliput. Plastic spares box upgrades: -Seat tops with ejection handles from an academy kit. -Bombs and AIM-9 from Hasegawa weapon sets. -Pilots from Revell NATO set. Some resin upgrades from mastered Hasegawa parts project: -Ventral fins (for the NACA vents) -Wedge behind RIO seat -Exhaust Tubes and burner faces -Bombracks -Lantirn pod & pylon -LAU138 Rails -TCS chinpod Some other updates purchased: -Reskit wheels -Brassin AIM-54C Painted in Tamiya acrylics (metallics too) for the solo light ghost grey scheme, over black stynylrez. Small metal details in Tamiya enamels too. All brushed details (eg red door edges) & pilots etc in Vallejo model color. Decals sealed in with aquagloss, final coat Tamiya xf86 flat. Weathered with mig washes and oilbrushers. Enough waffle. Here is the nose join of the pitot part. Stock on bottom (vf 213 build) and this vf 102 on the top. Seen a few builds were people paint the whole part metal but it's too much. Guess they made the part larger for ease of handling it? Thanks for taking the time to look at this. Tony
  4. Good morning folks, Today's problem for the wise patrons of Britmodeller is - I have been priming with stynlrez through my airbrush & then over painting with vallejo model air. It looks great - until I mask it & spray a second colour. When the masking tape is removed or the whitetac on occasions - it is taking the paint & primer off - right down to clean plastic. new airifix kit (Bedford mwd) thoroughly washed & dried silverline 2 in 1 brush / 20psi / 4mm needle / 2 moisture traps / littlejet pump primed in 2 thin coats - stynlrez vallejo grey primer also tried as an alternative painted in 2 thin coats - vallejo model air drying time 30 minutes to 1 hour between coats masking tape - tamiya whitetac also tried as an alternative to tape atmospheric conditions - 20 degrees c at all times The result when the tape or tac is removed is the paint & primer lifting - right down to the bare plastic. On closer inspection if you get a blade under a lifted area it pulls off almost like a stretchy plastic film. This first happened a couple of weeks ago with the vallejo / whitetac combination on some plastic food containers I was using for practice with the brush - before moving on to ruining a real model. I initially put it down to the fact that the food containers may have some kind of coating that the paint didn't want to stick to - but I moved to stynlrez as a precaution - as it has rave reviews all over the forum. Now I have the same problem with the tamiya tape on the airfix kit. Previously I was rattle canning using humbrol cans & using tons of masking tape or whitetac & I never had a problem with paint coming off - EVER!!! Any ideas would be gratefully received as always. PS - I'm not going to let it spoil my day this is too much fun. Thanks in advance, Steve
  5. Hi guys, something different here, a cast pewter presentation piece I painted for a mate. Got a bottle of scotch out of it. Came out quite well. Not so much a WIP as there was nothing to build, but pictures of the painting process here: Here is the finished piece remounted on its base. Paints for scale and to show what was used if you can't be bothered with looking at the WIP - Thanks for looking, Hope you liked it
  6. Hi guys, sorry for the delayed RFI. Finished a couple weeks back. WIP here : In short, completely OOB. Primed with stynylrez, airbrushed in decanted TS-26. Details in enamels (sprayed/brushed). Sealed in mr hobby top coat gloss sprayed from the can (Brilliant stuff) Panel lines and wheels/brakes had a deep grey panel wash. Then a matt dirty brown grey was airbrushed to put some exhaust stains on it and then to weather one side of it. A bit of a Jekyll and Hyde for the cabinet! Thanks for looking!
  7. Done this commission build over the past two months. Going to the same guy I did the 1/72 He-111 for. Didn't do a WIP for this what with all I've got going on - tomcat & spitfire saga's and then a car & GPMG gun kit... So onto this - not a bad kit. Would be nice to have plastic tires though. I like the IP - was a clear part so I maskol'd the dials and sprayed it in RLM 66 like the rest of the pit. The decal was then sandwiched between the IP and bulkhead behind it. Perfect dials with a nice depth. Kit comes with a fret of etch for some grills & seatbelts/pedals as well as some canopy parts. The only thing I had to add to the kit was a fuel line, scratched from stretched clear sprue and tape strips. Primed in black stynylrez for black basing, then painted entirely in Vallejo - model & metal colour. One or two air shades as well. Yellow done first, masked off then the 76/70/02 all done freehand in that order. Sprayed with a 0.3mm and thinned with Vallejo airbrush cleaner to get the fine demarcation. All the other detail shades - eg primary's in cockpit etc are Vallejo model colour too. Bare metal foil on suspension struts. Decals are xtradecal for the squadron stuff, crosses and stencils from the kit. Xtracrylix Flat for final sheen. It was then weathered with mig ammo stuff. Panel line washes and then oil brushers for fading. Chipping fluid for prop blades. Should all be fairly self explanatory which colours are which but any questions please ask. For scale: Here it is, sorry the pics aren't in any particular order... Hope you like it!
  8. Hi Troops, Seen this recently, took the plunge and got a bottle from online along with some other paints I ordered from scale model shop. I am 99% sure it's rebottled stynylrez. Thought that from the off reading the blurb on the mig website, they way they described how to use it and colours and bottle sizes- 60ml. They must ship it over in plain bottles and put their own label on. (Like UMP primer probably do?) Label says made in the USA, even the seal on the bottle under the cap is the same as bottles of stynylrez I've had. Not had a UMP bottle in my hands so cant compare that one. If it is stynylrez then its not a bad thing, as I really rate the stuff and this is another way for people to get their hands on it.... Will hopefully spray some later or tomorrow and report back. Bye for now...
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