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Found 52 results

  1. Anyone else given this a look? If you like Sci Fi give it a go. I won't post anything about the show for fear of spoilers but if you don't know it is set "Ten years before Kirk". Klingon War. Promising first two episodes I'd say.
  2. Hey All! Just got finished up with a car build and was longing to jump into another build, had this knocking around for years and thought I'd knock it out. Lessons learned and skills coming back after being away for so long. I want to do a nice job of this and take my time. I've been searching for aztec templates for the painting and have found some but just not sure if they are the most accurate, I found this : http://www.startrekpropauthority.com/2008/06/detailed-photostudy-of-enterprise-b-7.html and this It has a bunch of nice photos and if this is legit this was one of the models used in filming so it is supposedly the most screen accurate if true. If there are any other trekkies out there with confirmation or other good resources I would love to see. Ive also been watching way too much , https://www.youtube.com/user/TrekWorks , he has a wealth of stuff and makes amazing models. So this is my beginning, more to come. If anyone has some advice / resources anything would be massively appreciated. Thanks for looking. The top and bottom halves of the saucer section had massive gaps so allot of filler and sanding later its starting to look ok. Forgot to take before and after pictures but Ill try and remember next time Used Tamiya X-27 clear red on these, I'm REALLY loving the Tamiya paints super easy to airbrush and the finish is amazing every time, definitely something I'm going to get more of. Tried my best to replicate the look found on the supposedly screen used models secondary impulse engines, would go for the primary impulse engines too but these are just miniscule on this model and my hands aren't that steady yet You can see here what i mean, trying to get the impulse engines as accurate as possible.
  3. Hi everyone - I finished my USS Enterprise build this weekend. This has been my first model after 30 years and even though I think it turned out ok, I wish I could go back to change these things: - Get rid of the silver shine on the larger decals. Stock Revell decal softener had no visible effect. Any tips ? - The nacelles seem to droop to the rear slightly too much. I found no way to easily correct this. Link to a video and more images: https://geekjournal.ch/uss-enterprise-model-build-part-13-endgame/
  4. So finally, after many months of delay due to 'family things' I've found some time to post a few images of my finished Enterprise! You can see my 'work in progress' thread at Revell Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS) - My First Model, which includes lots of photos, some better than these tbh. As mentioned previously, this was my first model. I've learned a lot so far and enjoyed every minute of the build (apart maybe from masking the windows before paint spraying). I really need to get a decent camera and video camera. I used my phone and these are pretty poor quality, the video is pretty dark and shakey too so sorry about that I also need to create a work-in-progress post for my Revell Klingon D7 that I've started, but havent worked on for a while. Anyway, here they are.... I plan to add some weathering in future models and to be a bit more adventurous when it comes to correcting inaccuracies in the model compared to the TV/Movie models. But, for a first model I'm very happy with this
  5. My latest build, the USS Voyager, it’s the Revell kit. I didn’t use a lighting kit, but some spare LEDs I had hanging around. What do you all think? And without the lights on.....
  6. USS Anubis | NCC-586 | Hermes Class | 1/2500 From the classic Franz Joseph "Star Fleet Technical Manual", this is the USS Anubis, a Hermes class scout. It was kitbashed from the classic Enterprise in the AMT 1/2500 "3 enterprise" (1701, 1701-A and 1701-D) from the '90's, of which I had an extra. The name came from the technical manual, but is also a sly nod to Stargate SG-1, which my kids also love. Work in progress is here. I saw several examples on the internet of classic Star Trek models with the shuttlebay integrated into the saucer section which I thought was brilliant. I cut the back off of the engineering hull and glued it to the saucer and then used Apoxie Sculpt epoxy putty to blend it in to the B/C decks on the saucer. The toughest part of that was cutting the angle on the bottom of the shuttle bay right so that the top of the shuttlebay was even with the top of the B/C decks. I only had one shot at that so it was a careful and tedious process. The other difficult part was to turn the center part of the warp nacelle so that it would be pointing down ward in the finished model. This meant I had to cut off the front and back parts, re-glue them in the right orientation and then fill and sand. I then had to fabricate "final stage intercoolers" (the thingamajigs that stick up in the back of the warp nacelle) out of sheet styrene and glue them on. Paints: (applied from base coat to surface): Mr Surfacer 1500 black as a primer > Testors Enamel FS36440 (Flat Gull Gray) marble coat > Testors Enamel Black preshading > Testors Enamel FS36440 top coat > Testors Enamel Dark Ghost Gray (FS36320) / Testors Enamel Gunship Gray (FS36118) / Testors Enamel Chrome Silver for details > Alclad Aqua Gloss (3 coats) > Decals > Testors Model Master Semi-Gloss lacquer clear coat Decals: JT Graphics Surya and Constitution Class Decals / PNT Models 1:2500 scale hull details (for the pylon) In all, I was pretty happy with how it turned out! I kinda wish it hadn't taken so long, but it wasn't as big of a priority as some of my other builds. Thanks for looking. Comments, constructive criticism, questions and tips always welcome! Hope you enjoy.
  7. Late Friday night, while waiting for my MiG-15 to dry, I got stuck on my Miranda Class because the paint I needed was dried out. So what does a modeller do? Start a new project! I have an extra 1:2500 AMT 3 enterprise kit, and this has been percolating in my mind for a while. As with most kids my age, I thought the Franz Joseph "Starfleet Technical Manual" was the greatest Star Trek book ever and always dreamed of building up my own fleet (of course, when role playing I was always the captain of a Federation Class Dreadnought ). 1:2500 scale is the perfect scale to do that with. So, since I have extra registry number and fleet pennant decals from my JT Graphics Surya class decal sheet, I figured I'd make the USS Anubis (NCC-586) -- partially as a nod to Stargate SG-1 which my kids love. So, for starters, I wanted to turn the center section (with the "control reactor" which is the name given by the old AMT Enterprise instructions) so that it would face down in the finished product. So, I cut the front and back parts off the engine nacelle with an exact-o knife and glued them on 90 degrees clockwise. I had to cut off the "Intercooler units" and will need to fabricate new ones later. I didn't get pictures of the nacelle all cut apart, but here it is re-assembled, but not sanded yet: I also needed to cut the "neck" off of the secondary hull, so I did that with an exact-o knife and press-fit it into the saucer: Yesterday, I sanded the warp nacelle. It looks pretty good, but I won't know for sure until I primer it. Don't know how well the picture shows it, though: Also, I've seen pictures of kit bashes with a shuttle bay on the saucer section, which I think is brilliant for a hermes class scout. So, I tried to replicate that by cutting the back end of the secondary hull off with my Dremel and spending an hour with the Dremel and sandpaper to try and get it to fit correctly. This is the best I could do. I think it will be OK. The next step is to sand this down, and then use Apoxie sculpt epoxy putty to fill in the gaps. That will be the tricky part!
  8. Hi all, I've been here a few weeks now and though it was about time I showed you what I'm up to. I've very fond memories of watching Star Trek (TOS) as a kid in the 80's with my dad and my brother and it's one of the few things that has really stuck with me through changing times. The Enterprise itself I find mesmerising, it's graceful and each part of the ship has a clear purpose, a design classic and I love it. My favourite itteration has to be the refit, which I hope to build at some point in the future So, I got in to modelling because I wanted a decent model Enterprise, I've had a few very small die-cast models but they are always lacking something. I found the Revell kit online and decided that I'd build my own, LED lights and all. Now I've well and truly got the modelling bug, I've bought the Star Trek Starship Voyager for my next model, I've built a small Star Destroyer and plan to build models from Battlestar and other Star Trek models Here's some photos that I took while building my Enterprise, I wasnt originally planning on posting them online but then I found this place, so here it goes! 1. What a great start, I ruined my first model! I wanted to light my model with LEDs, so it had to be light-proofed. So the insides of the model had a coat of adhesion promoter, followed by black, then a silver or while coat would be painted to make it reflective. I was watching lots of Boyd's Trekworks Youtube videos for info and he used a heat gun on a gentle heat to aid the drying process.... I'll never do that again, my model melted You can see the plastic deformation from the heat in this image. It also shows my initial plan for lighting, which was to cover all windows with grease-proof paper, which diffuses the light, then placing LED's around the ship to light them up. 2. Saucer section interior is about ready So after buys a replacement model I started again, with a few important lessons learned This image shows the insides of the saucer section, painted and with the windows covered. I used 'Revell Contacta Liquid Special' to glue the clear windows in place, and to glue the greese-proof paper in place. The secondary hull, again with the inside prepared for lighting, it's had a black coat followed by a light coat to refelct the light. By this time I'd also started experimenting with LEDs, the breadboard in this photo had a 555 Timer chip and a 4017 Decade counter, they'll be used for the rotating lights of the Warp Nacells and the blinking navigation lights. 4.Let there be light! Not sure of the best positioning and arrangement of LEDs I just dove in with something that looked like it would give good coverage. I know some people use fewer but brighter LEDs, and some use LED tape/strips, which I might look at using in the future. Each LED has a resistor attached, and they're all in parallel, so if one should fail the others will continue to work. 5. Glue. After lighting the secondary hull in a similar way I was ready to glue a few parts together. Which I was pretty worried about as I considered it opportunity to ruin yet another model. I used Revel Contacta Professional glue and found my fears were unfounded, thankfully 6. Circuits To light this model I would need to build some circuits to handle the navigation lights and the rotating buzzard collector effects. So I bought the relevant gear from Maplin (I now use RS instead) and designed a few circuits in Pad2Pad, which is excellent free circuit design software. The first completed circuit was for the navigation lights, I was initially planning to put it inside the model but then decided I would fit it in the stand instead. 7. Warp Nacell Test #1 You saw my breadboard with a few components in an earlier photo. This is basically how the Buzzard Collector effect works on my model, The red, orange and green LEDs are aranged in a circle and give the impression of rotation. 8.Warp Nacell Circuit fitting After designing my Warp Nacell circuit in Pad2Pad, I printed it off, cut it out and placed it in it's intended final position to make sure it would fit. The circular plastic piece has holes drilled in it to receive the LEDs, 12 of them (for a single Nacell). 9. Assembled Warp Nacell Board After building the warp nacell board I fit it in place. Now you can also see how the LEDs sit. It's a pretty tight space so I was pleased that everything went in with no problems In the video below, the middle light isnt connected to any power, it will eventually be 'always-on' to provide a steady red glow. The camera doesnt really do the below any justice. 10. Closed up my first Warp Necell - and made my second big mistake It's amazing isnt it that you can do something, then the instant you finish you realise you've done it wrong. I guess it's not really that big a deal, the model isn't completely accurate anyway and I'd already decided that I would'nt worry about that this time. But this mistake was easily avoidably, yet at the crutial point I... put the wrong circuit in the wrong nacell, so the buzzard collectors now spin in the wrong direction. Only a Trek fan would notice, but it's annoying all the same. Still, after much grumpiness I think I can live with it. 11. Connecting the Pylons and the Seconday Hull. I'd already glued the warp nacells to the support pylons and let those set, I'd also done some work on removing the seams on all the parts glued so far. Now it was time to connect the wiring up and glue them to the secondary hull. With the wiring connected and the pylons glued on to the secondary hull, it looked like the area would be under a fair bit of stress, so I stuck a clamp in place to hold things together while they set. 12. Windows, I hate Windows I bought some masking fluid so that I could mask the windows, but found it to be far to imprecise and the results (of tests I did on my melted saucer section) were pretty messy. So after getting some advice right here on Britmodeller (thanks guys, you know who you are) I settled on masking the windows with masking tape. I used a scalpal to cut small rectangles working on one at a time. It took ages. I have used the masking fluid on a few of the larger clear pieces, but I'm still not impressed with the result, maybe I just need more practice with it! 13. All Masked, Time for the Primer With all the clear parts masked I bought myself a 'lazy suzan' and gave the entire ship a coat of Hycote Adhesion Promoter and then a nice coat of Hycote grey primer. No way was I going anywhere near this thing with a heat gun The wires you see here will eventually be fed through the stand in to the base. I found the Hycote cans give excellent fast coverage, pretty cheep too. 14. Base Color With the primer dry it was time to start mixing colours (as per the model instructions) and giving it some proper color. I used a 'Sparmax Arism Mini' Airbrush to spray the model, with Revel Aqua Color paints. I found that thinning the paint 2-parts paint to 1-part thinner worked pretty well. I'd aslo sprayed the deflector dish, I love that copper colour and started giving the warp nacell and impulse engines some colour. I was having trouble cutting the masking tape perfectly to cover the inside of the impulse engines, so decided to try the masking fluid. The result was not great but I think It'll look fine if I touch it up with a brush. So, that's my model so far. It's the first model I've ever build and while I've found it quite challenging I've really enjoyed it and plan to do many more in the future. I'll post more photos and videos as I make more progress. And thanks to everyone here for accepting me in to the site and giving me some great tips! Cheers
  9. I picked up a VA miniatures Surya class for a song. It looked simple enough that I thought I'd crank it out (having just come of a couple really lengthy builds). The USS Reliant was always one of my favorite starship designs and the idea of a "pre-refit" Miranda class intrigues me. Now, I realize this is a "Surya" class (I've seen a "Coventry" class too), but I think it was just the fandom version of the Miranda class before that name was canon. Anyway, the decals that came with the kit are pretty sparse (just the saucer top and bottom registry numbers and the banners for the nacelles) and are Kirk-era movie graphics, so I bought J-T Graphics Surya class decals. Those are much more complete, but were still lacking some of the detail I wanted, so I also ponied up for PNT Graphic hull markings (good thing I got the original model on the cheap, eh?). Here's the whole set all together: And here's a close up of the kit: I believe this is resin, which I've never worked with before. I read some where that resin is supposed to be primed with automotive primer (???). Can I get some advice on what to use for primer? Will Mr. Surfacer 1500 work OK, or do I need to get the automotive primer I read about somewhere? My first hurdle is going to be improving the slots that the engines fit into, as they are practically non-existent.
  10. Hello, I'd like to present USS Voyager from Revell - just after finish. Painted as always with Tamiya and Mr.Hobby. Wash by AK. Despite decaling errors I'm happy with result
  11. This is my build of the Polar Lights 1/350 Enterprise refit. I complete this before the Reliant that I have already posted. This build was the first model I have built for about 25 years and I made a few mistakes along the way. Most obvious is the poor light blocking in the main hull. Other errors are less visable on photos but are too me. I bought a lighting kit for it but added the option to switch the deflector dish from blur for warp to amber for impulse using a duel coloured LED. Also on impulse the blue of the warp nacelles is off. I also have the navigation lights blinking but set the speed too fast and now cannot get to the unit to slow them down. Overall I would rate it a 6 out of 10. Now the pictures.
  12. I've recently been cleaning out the spare room and stumbled on a storage box containing a few old builds from the '90's. Technically, I didn't do any modelling from the very early '90's up until I returned to the hobby in 2012, but there were some exceptions, all of which being AMT/ERTL Star Trek kits including this one of everyone's favourite Deep Space 9 character, Quark. I picked this up at the time (probably around 1996) at The Works for about 2 or 3 pounds. AMT had released Quark and another figure of Odo presumably to jump on the Horizon/Screamin' vinyl figure bandwagon that was popular at the time. They'd clearly not sold well though, hence ending up in discount bookstores. When I pulled him out of the bubble wrap he'd been stored in for the last 20 odd years he'd stood the test of time remarkably well. The paint was still clean and fresh and the vinyl hadn't warped or distorted in any way. The paint finish I'd given him at the time though was pretty basic, to say the least. No airbrushes back them. Just Halfords rattle cans and some old Humbol enamels left over from my modelling days in the 80's. The jacket, trousers and boots had been sprayed in different black tones and the shirt picked out in a dark red enamel. Although the finish was reasonable, I thought he needed some freshening up so I've given all the clothing a re-paint. There's not a lot of detail in the body sculpt, so I've not added much in the way of shading/highlighting. It's really just a slightly refined (and a little more colourful) version of what it was like originally. The head and hands though are still in the original paint job from when I build him. Like the rest of the original detail painting, the skin tones were done with Humbrol enamels over a Halfords grey primer coat and, although there's a little roughness to the finish now, it's held up pretty well and I didn't see any need to risk spoiling the finish by trying to re-work it. He originally held a drinks glass in his right hand but that seems to have disappeared over the years, so I'll probably scratch build a replacement when I get a moment. It's been good to get him out of storage and he's now taken up residence in the display cabinet, looming ominously over the 1/12 Bandai Star Wars figures. Thanks for looking Andy
  13. My second lighted model. Bit more room to add lights in this model as it's a lot bigger than the Revell kit.
  14. Greetings Everyone! I am starting on a New Larger Scale ST:TMP DRYDOCK made to fit the DeBoers Scale Enterprise. Right now I have most of the model blueprinted for the sections that I need for reference for when I actually start construction. I will have a serious advantage with this build in that I was able to go see the original DRYDOCK model in person. From this I was able to make hundreds of notations and many reference pictures of this incredible miniature. On my first Drydock build I had only ST:TMP DVD as a reference and whatever photos that were floating around on the internet at the time. But now I can be as accurate as possible with this new scale. The only thing I would like to point out though is please, please do not ask me to post any of the pics that I took of the miniature. I was allowed in good faith to take the pics that I did as long as I would not publish them. So, please be considerate of this request. There will be no further discussion of this issue and private requests will be deleted. Thank you for respecting this wish. The only thing I can assure you of is that what you see in this build will be a very accurate representation of the model. With that in mind, this last month I was able to start construction of a MASTER of one of the light panels. This will be used for mold making and YES, this time I will be casting the majority of the parts for this build. This should cut down the build time dramatically. I am going to be casting the parts in black resin to reduce the need to opaque the pieces for light leaks. I will also be trying a new kind of lighting that will reduce the need for soldering, LEDs and exposed wiring and excessive heat build up. I have also been asked to work out some moldings and castings for another 1/350 scale drydock build. These updates will be included on the DRYDOCK LARGE SCALE page. By the next update I am hopeful to have some of the moldings done and a few of the castings ready for pics. In the Updates for March I just have one pic of the Enterprise models in their cradle docks. These cradles make it much easier to not only move the models, but also to work on them. Shoulda finished these months ago but..... busy. Anyway, on the drydock page I have several drawings of the model-to-be's basic designs and some pics of the light panel Master. I will have more of the details added on by the next update. See you then, Mark
  15. Moebius has announced the long rumoured kit of the USS Kelvin in 1/1000th scale, should be around 11 inches long. News came from the Cult TV man site. https://culttvman.com/main/moebius-models-news-uss-kelvin-is-coming/ Paul Harrison
  16. This is my first model for 42 years. My son bought it for me and I had to relearn how to model. It is poor by comparison with most of the models on here but I am pleased with it as a first effort. It's important because it has got me back into tis excellent hobby (which might become an obsession) after four decades of doing 'sensible' things. Lots of errors on here the main one being I destroyed the NCC- 1701 decal and had to replace it with NCC - 1017 (really bad news for those Trekkies) :-(
  17. My first lighted model since I got back into the hobby which I built last year. It took me 5 months, at times I felt more like an electrician than a modeller LOL! There are also some daylight pictures of my JJ Enterprise, it's around 3 years old now and it was my first lighted model.
  18. Hi Everyone Welcome to my first build. This is to be more to be precise my first build of this type. I am currently doing the Eaglemoss Delorean and the Deagostini R2D2. These though do not require much modification and are partworks . I decided to do this model to generally learn the art form , so expect a lot of mess ups and experimentation . I am not the sensitive type so please feel free to Laugh and poke fun at what I am doing. Criticise as much as you want . However if you can also find it in your heart to give some constructive suggestions that would be fantastic. Please have fun. My intention is to learn the skills need edto do the 1/350 polar lights Trek Models. This is a practice as I would love to to do those to a very high standard. I gained a lot of inspiration from Smiffy's build of the same model I am doing. Very impressive work. Please don't expect work of that quantity from me at this stage . I am doing mine a little different. I do want panel lines on the model but painted on . so I an going to have to use the filler rough too . I will however try to make the best model I can . I am a Trekkie but I also love Star Wars and other franchises. So Welcome to my First Ever ' Non Partworks' Build
  19. Hi Everyone This is one of my earlier builds that I made years ago of the original Star Trek ship and added lights to. The electrics are quite basic but I achieved the effects that I wanted. I found it quite easy to do as there was plenty of space for the wiring, etc, and after looking on the Internet it seemed that strobe lighting had not been invented when they created the model for the series, so I just used basic Led's. There is a video that I made HERE and some pictures of how I added the lighting in the WIP forum. Thanks for viewing.
  20. This is how I added lights to my build of the Enterprise many moons ago. The lighting is quite basic and should be a fairly easy project to do for anyone wanting to get into lighting their kits. As the original series model of the ship was quite basic with its lighting effects, I used some poetic justice while still trying to keep some of the effects from the TV series. Thanks for viewing and I hope it encourages others to have a go. There is a video of the finished kit HERE
  21. This is the 1/1400 AMT Enterprise kit, I have a couple of aftermarket decal sheets for it as the kit sheet is a write-off Construction commenced, not many parts but the fit is average, looks like a few putty and sanding sessions coming up. NIce gaps Nacelle painting started Funky stand
  22. I have had this kit in the stash for quite a while I got this kit a number of years ago, part started. ARC are having a Star Trek Universe GB so this is being built for that. I have always like the lines of the Excelsior class starship, not a fan of the Enterprise - B though with that bulge they put on it all for the sake of being able to blow parts of it off for filming in 'Generations'. It's the AMT 1/1000 USS Excelsior NCC-2000 Onto some build pictures. It started with a kit...! Some assembly Some initial paint before buttoning up and then lots of masking and some paint and some more masking and paint and masking and then it all came off I think I spent 5-6 hours just masking so far which is the majority of the build time. Next more masking... usually I dread it but the is a sense of satisfaction with this as is there have been relatively few stuff ups so far ( well just the one where I used too dark a shade of blue on the primary hull and had to re-mask and paint it). To be continued...
  23. Hi all, heres my completed Romulan Warbird, painted in enamels and with a number of washes and fluorescant paint. WIP thread on here as well . All the best Chris
  24. Aged TREK-heads (like myself) may recall the 1970's Lou Zocchi/GAMESCIENCE Star Trek gaming miniatures, issued in the oh-so-common 1/3788 scale. (These pieces were based on the famed designs of artist Franz Joseph Schnaubelt, from his Paramount-authorized 1975 publication Star Fleet Technical Manual: designs meant to retroactively 'flesh out' the Star Trek universe by providing additional Federation ship designs deriving from more-or-less logical (and clever) extensions of the posited technology. Though eventually declared 'non canon' by the 'official' franchise-holders. these designs remain fan-favorites to this day---frequently modeled and modified in a bewildering variety of refits, updates, and inspiredly-insane configurations.) Despite their tiny size, the Gamescience pieces were among the most detailed models of TREK ship issued up to that point---and they still hold up surprisingly well, detail-wise. I confess myself an unabashed Franz Joseph fan---I always particularly liked his designs for destroyers, scouts, and cargo tugs---and I had a modest collection of these pieces when they were new, painstakingly detail-painted and hand-lettered. Those originals long ago went to the 'big yard sale in the sky,' but a few years ago I discovered that not only were those pieces still available...but that a company called Mark's Models and Toys, through their Starfighter Decals line, did sets of decals specifically for them. I was hooked---again---and picked up a few of the ships, and some sets of the decals. Here's the recently-completed 'task group': First, the Constitution-class cruiser USS Lexington. (Even non-Star-Trek fans will recognize the familiar shape...the same as TOS's Enterprise....) Next the name-ship of the Saladin destroyer class...looking a bit hard-used and ready for a refit. And the slightly-fresher Hermes-class scout vessel USS Bridger---basically the same lines as the destroyers, but with lighter armament (a difference which is authentically replicated in the molding of the game-pieces): And last...the cargo tug Al Rashid, with its tandem load of cargo pods. "The Wingnut Wings Sopwith Camel having finally been released...Stardate 4329.7...the Fleet Transport Al Rashid conveys an emergency supply to the desperately kit-hungry, Tenax-breathing amphibian modelers of Eminiar XII...." And the 'penny' shots, just for reference. The decal sheets aren't entirely 'accurate' (so to speak...for fictional craft), but they were lovely to work with, and soooo much easier than trying to carve tiny hair-width strips of decal stock, or hand-lettering with a technical pen (even back when the vision was still something close to 20/20). All in all great fun, and a nice nostalgia trip. It's also whetted my appetite to break out one one of the larger-scale kits I have long had resting in the 'stash.' (Maybe it's time to take on the 22" 'cutaway'....) Hope you enjoy the shots.
  25. Hi all, Uploading some final shots of my restore. I'm really pleased with the overall result, considering she's been at the bottom of a box for at least the last 10 years I've learnt quite a lot, I've made some mistakes and there are a few things I would have done differently plus there's a bit of silvering around some of the decals but hey ho! As I've said, she's not perfect, but she's mine The only thing left to do now is buy the stand and show her off A couple of quick before shots: And PLENTY of after shots: There are a few imperfections, but at least she's no longer at the bottom of a box Thanks for looking guys LLAP \V/
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