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Found 59 results

  1. Hi Guys, I will be building the Scud B missile on the 2P19 tracked launcher from Trumpeter. It will be build out of the box. Here are some pictures of the box and content. There will be loads of parts to glue. There will be around 750 parts on it. It also has some etch parts and some die cut masks for the windows. the box top The content This is a leaflet with it of what is possible. and the two decal options. I think both are from a parade?! Now we need to wait till Saturday for the start. Cheers,
  2. Su-34 Fullback (KH80141) 1:48 Kitty Hawk The Sukhoi Su-34, known by the NATO reporting name 'Fullback' is an all-weather strike fighter, designed to replace the ageing Su-24 Fencer in Russian service. Despite being based on an existing design (the Su-27), the type endured an extremely protracted development, punctuated by the collapse of the Soviet Union. Eventually, 200 of the type are expected to enter service, replacing approximately 300 Su-24s. There are many differences between the Su-27 and the Su34, principal amongst which is a completely new nose, which accommodates the crew side-by-side, and gives it a duck-billed look that is hard to capture, plus small canards forward of the main planes, all of which has a reduced front radar signature, due to basic stealth shaping. Since September 2015, Su-34s have been involved in the conflict in Syria, dropping BETAB-500 and OFAB-500 bombs. There has already been interest in the type from overseas customers. Algeria has ordered an initial batch of 12 aircraft, while Vietnam is apparently also interested in the type. The Kit This is a complete new tool from Kitty Hawk, following on from another manufacturer's slightly flawed attempt, so a lot of people are hoping it's right. It arrives in a large box, as it is a big aircraft with 12 hardpoints for attaching munitions, of which KH are apt to include many! The boxtop art shows a Fullback climbing out after causing some chaos with some oil storage tanks, and inside the lid it quite a full box – the artwork header has also been updated from the original to a more modern, funky look to catch the eye, as you can see above. Many of these semi-blended designs are moulded with wings integral to the fuselage halves, which reduces the part count and usually means that half the box is taken up with just two parts. Not so here, as the wings are separate, and all the available space is taken up with parts. The fuselage halves still take up the full length of the box, and there is a high parts count due to the generous provision of Russian weapons. Beside the two fuselage halves there are thirteen sprues in pale grey styrene, a sprue of clear parts, four resin (yes, resin!) exhaust cans, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) parts, and three decal sheets of various sizes. The instruction booklet has a glossy cover with fold-out leaves that detail the box contents in front and painting of the weapons at the rear, while the full colour painting and markings guide is found in the centre of the booklet, which will be more use when removed carefully and the staples bent back so your instruction booklet doesn't fall apart, which is exactly what I've just done. First impressions are good, with a little flash around the large complex fuselage mouldings, which isn't entirely surprising, as they are complex shapes. There are slide-moulding seams behind and forward of the cockpit opening that will need a little attention before construction, and just aft of that a few panel lines have been tooled very faintly so they don't catch on the mould as the part is ejected. These would be best deepened with your favourite scribing tool before you get too far into the build. The inboard walls of the rear engine nacelles also suffer from this to a slightly lesser extent, so while you have your scriber out, fix those too. They're not defects, but necessities of production that have been present since injection moulding model kits began. The massive array of weapons provides spans six sprues, and it's best to consider them as a generic set, as there are some that won't be used and more that the Su-34 can carry. It's cheaper for KH to tool one set of weapons for all Soviet/Russian subjects than individual load-outs again and again. Construction begins with the cockp…. Nope, with the engines for a change, which KH have included for good measure, and to which are fair quantity of parts are devoted, only to be hidden away unless you're planning on opening up some panels, which will of course require some surgery to the upper fuselage, but if you flip it over, you'll see that KH have thoughtfully included two panels above each engine that can be cut out from the inside to provide access to the engines, with rivets engraved on the interior so they can be left lying about as if they are being worked on. Sure, they're a bit thick, but this is a much better option than just hiding the detail away, and if you're interested in scale fidelity, you have a shape template to base your work on. Both Saturn AL31FM1s are included, and they are set aside until later on in the build. Whether you paint them fully is entirely up to you and whether you want to cut those panels out, but I'd probably just do the front and rear faces, as they're all that will be seen eventually. Now it's the turn of the cockpit, and the first item is a pair of well-detailed Zvezda K36dm seats, which have PE seatbelts included, and are an improvement on earlier kits. The cockpit floor has the side consoles moulded in, and slots for the ejection ladders, plus control columns and decals for all panels, which are printed on a small decal sheet that has an almost photographic look to it. The rear bulkhead and access door fit to the back, and the instrument panel to the front to finish off, then this too is set aside while the gear bays and cannon bay are built up. The former are well-detailed with individual panels and additional parts to give a busy look, while the cannon bay is somewhat simpler with only a few parts in addition to the breech. The nose gear bay is more complex, and has the hatch for crew access moulded in, with a ladder built into the nose gear bay later on. This explains why you should never see a Fullback with its cockpit open, unless the crew are about to disappear on their ejection seats. Finally, the fuselage is ready to close up, after the aforementioned fettling and the removal of the residual sprue gates that can be found on the mating surfaces in places, which is an effort to avoid marring surface detail and IMHO is a great idea that is slowly creeping into kits from various manufacturers. The gear bays, two engine supports, the engines themselves and the cockpit are all added to the lower half, with the upper fuselage dropped on and glued along with the canards, which pivot on a pin, so you can set them to whatever pitch seems appropriate after checking your references. The forward facing radar is fitted to the blunt end of the fuselage, and the nose cone is popped over it, covering it up unless you do some scratching and pose it opened. The pilot's HUD is a sizeable part, and has a trough in the cockpit coaming, a PE glass support, and two part glazing, plus a horizontal lens on the clear sprue. A few probes and the refuelling probe are added, although I'd leave those until later on in case I broke them off. The twin vertical stabilisers are next, with a single thickness that is bolstered at the root, and with separate rudder, antennae and clear formation light. These are also set aside (the theme of this build!) while the exhausts and stinger are made up. You may have noticed that the exhaust cans are resin, and you can choose open or closed positions to suit your intended situation, with the tabs at the rear locking it in place on the two-part exhaust trunks. Careful painting whilst paying attention to your references will result in a good finish to this area. The Stinger is the fairing between the engines, and contains the rear radar, as well as various other equipment, and the chaff and flare dispensers that are fired to confuse and thwart incoming missiles. The body of the stinger is two part, with a recess in the top for the PE dispensers, and holes in the rear that accommodate three PE exhaust vents, which will need rolling to fit the contours of the surrounding area. These assemblies are all fitted to the rear along with some more small parts, and the tail fins attach to the sides of the fuselage with two locating pins each. Before the engine nacelles are installed, additional parts are added inside the main wheel bays that will mate with the corresponding cut-outs in the nacelles later on. Each nacelle is built up in the same manner, with a main outer skin, small PE auxiliary intakes on the sides, plus a pair of blow-in doors further back. The intake ramp attaches to the eventual roof of the intake, and a two-part trunk changes the interior profile to match the cylindrical shape of the engine front. A small elliptical insert is added to the outside of each one before they are fitted to the fuselage, along with a few more small parts hither and thither. It still needs wings, which is next and begins with the elevators, which have fairings added at their base, and when they are attached to the fuselage, another part is added, which connects them to a hinge-point in the fuselage rear. The main wings are each two parts, with slats and flaps front and rear respectively, along with a small wing fence toward the tip, and a choice of straight or curved fairing where the leading edge meets the tip rails, which you'll need to check your references to select the correct one for your airframe, as all the decal profiles show curved fairings. They fit into the fuselage on two tabs with a good mating surface, and should blend with the upper surface with a little care and test-fitting. Landing is tricky without wheels, and Russian fighters invariably have tough gear for rough field operation, and twin rear wheels on bogies are the norm. The Fullback has sturdy struts reminiscent of the Mig-31, but with both wheels on the outer face of the bogie. The legs have separate scissor-links and additional actuators, with a pair of two-part wheels each, which have decent hub and tyre detail. There should be some circumferential tread, which is absent due to moulding limitation, but as these aircraft are often seen with threadbare tyres, painting them to resemble well-used examples gets round needing to replicate this. Either that or you could treat yourself to a set of wheels from Eduard that will doubtless fit this newer tooling. The nose gear is also pretty substantial and has a high parts count, which includes a pair of clear landing lights. The crew ladder is in two parts and fits to the rear of the leg, above the mudguard that nestles behind the tyres to reduce FOD intrusion into the airframe on rough airstrip movements. The wheels are each two parts, and again there is no tread, despite it being shown on the diagrams. Happily, each gear leg can be added to a completed airframe, which is good news as it saves them from damage during handling. There are scrap diagrams of each main gear bay showing how things should look once you have installed them and the small surrounding panel at the rear of the bays. The front gear bay doors are single parts, while the rear bay doors all have additions before they can be inserted, with actuators adding a bit of realism. More scrap diagrams show their orientation after they are added, so there's little chance of making a slip-up here. Before you can load up your Fullback, you need pylons, which are all fitted with PE shackles or styrene sway-braces before they are added to the model alongside the wingtip rail. A twin rail fits between the nacelles, and either three underwing pylons, or two and a double are attached to each wing, plus the wingtip pods already mentioned. Additional single rails fit to the underside of the nacelles level with the gear legs. As already mentioned, there is a ton of weapons on those six sprues, with ten pages devoted to building them up. This is what's selected to be carried by the Su-34: 2 x FAB-500-M54 general purpose bomb 2 x BETAB-500 bunker buster 2 x OFAB-250-SZN bomb 2 x SPPU-22 gun pod 2 x U-6 pylon adapter 2 x R77 Missile Adder medium range A2A missile 2 x R73 Archer short range A2A Missile with APU-73 adapter 2 x UBK-23 gun pod 2 x GUV-8700 gun pod 2 x R27-ET/R27-ER Alamo medium range missiles with APU-470 pylon adapter 2 x R27-T Alamo medium range missiles with APU-470 pylon adapter 4 x R60 Aphid short-range A2A missile with three types of pylon adapters 2 x U-4 adapter rail 2 x UB-32 rocket pod 2 x KH-35 Kayak anti-shipping missile 2 x S-24 rocket with APU-68 pylon adapter 2 x KH-23 Kerry A2G missile with APU-68 pylon adapter 2 x KH-59 Kazoo TV guided missile 2 x KAB-250 satellite guided bomb 4 x FAB-250-M62 bomb 4 x FAB-250-TS bomb (there's a spelling mistake showing it as "F2B" on the instructions) 4 x FAB-250-M54 bomb 2 x BETAB-500-ZD penetrator bomb 4 x SAB-100 high explosive bomb 2 x S-25-A, B & C rocket 2 x RBK-500-250 cluster bomb 2 x B-8M rocket pod 2 x B-13 rocket pod 2 x KH-25-ML/MT Karen A2G Missile 2 x KH-29L Kedge laser guided A2G missile 2 x KAB-500KR TV guided bomb 2 x KAB-500L laser guided bomb 2 x KAB-1500-L/KR laser/TV guided bomb 2 x UB-16 rocket pod 2 x KH-31 A2G missile 2 x KH-58ME Kilter missile 2 x KH-58 Kilter missile with AKU-58 pylon adapter There are two pages of diagrams showing which stations the various weapons are suitable for, but if you're going for accuracy, check your references for some real-world loadouts, as with all aircraft there are limitations. The parts on the sprues are also marked by designation, with all the parts for each weapon sub-numbered within that section of the sprue. Markings The largest decal sheet is for the armament, with each weapon's stencils and markings sectioned off with a dotted line and the designation, which will make applying them a much easier proposition. Four pages of colour diagrams at the rear of the booklet show their colours and markings. Once you have unpicked the main painting guide from the centre of the booklet, you can rotate them so they're easier on the eye, where you'll discover that there are four markings options, each with four views so that there is no guesswork with the camouflaged options. Everything is a good size too, which makes reading the decal numbers and other details a lot easier than some of their first kits, proving that KH have come a long way in all departments. There is a variety of schemes available out of the box, two of which use the three shades of blue camo, one in primer, and another in dark blue over blue, and all rocking a fetching white radome. There are also large expanses of bare metal where paint wouldn't last, on the underside of the engine nacelles, and the leading edges of the elevators (hot missile exhaust?). From the box you can build one of the following rather generically described airframes: Russian Aerospace Defence Forces Red 02 in three-tone blue camo Russian Aerospace Defence Forces Red 03 in three-tone blue camo Russian Aerospace Defence Forces in primer Russian Aerospace Defence Forces in dark blue over pale blue It is unclear where and by whom the decals were printed by, but in general they are of good quality with decent sharpness and colour density except for the use of half-tones to create orange and the dielectric panel decals. On my sample, the dielectric panels also expose an element of mis-registration of the white, which is offset, giving the panels a drop-shadow effect on the sheet, which will probably disappear once applied. I would however be tempted to paint them and create some masks using the decals as templates. The white also shows up in the outlined digits as well as the tail decal BBC POCCИИ having the entire white outline projecting from the top, rather than equally spaced around the letters. Conclusion The plastic looks great, and as Kitty Hawk has stated that they want their Su-34 to be the best on the market in the scale, it shows that they have put additional effort into this model. The huge choice of weapons are also highly detailed, which are likely to be seen again as KH fill more gaps in the Soviet/Russian line-up, and we can forgive them for the little faux pas with the decals, which can be rectified fairly easily – hopefully it's an isolated case. As to shape, I've put some of the main parts together with tape to get a feeling for the overall shape of the airframe, and my first impression is that it's a good overall shape, with maybe a little more of a flare to the tip of the radome needed at the front, but it's very hard to gauge against photos of the airframe due to distortion and such, so I'll leave the final decision to you guys. If you want to discuss it further, start a thread in the main forums and link back to this thread Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of Available soon from major hobby shops
  3. Soviet Drivers (1979-1991) ICM 1:35 35641 While it would be good to get a driver figure in a kit, some people dont use them so it does make sense that companies will offer them as an "added extra". This set from ICM is aimed at some of the great Russian truck models they are currently producing; how ever they can be used as and where the modeller wants. There are two figures in the box, one sitting on a higher type seat and one on a lower type. They are well sculpted. Conclusion These figures will enhance any Russian truck model the modeller wants to use them on. Recmended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. GazB

    80s Soviet

    Hey all, got a question for you. Did Soviet tanks in the 80s period use a particular colour as a primer (much like the Germans did with red oxide) and what was the primary green they used? I have the Mig Ammo ZASHCHITNIY ZELENO, which was mentioned as being the colour for the vehicles in that time, but it seems more...browny than green, so I was just wanting to specificy, particularly since Trumpeter often suggests using 303 Green for Soviet tanks or equipment of that period, which is decidedly more green in colour. Being Russian vehicles I imagine they used a mishmash of greens and camouflage, but I'm particularly curious about the most common known colour for them, as well as any known schemes used in the Afghan theatre, particularly on T-62s and Zil-131 trucks. Cheers. Gaz
  5. Shermaniac

    T-55 STGB @ 20

    Simple enough Guy's The Soviet/Warsaw-Pact T-55 chassis The model may represent any vehicle in service with any Nation/Army from it's inception to the present day Criteria: The model, as a basis for a Tank and associated vehicles (Recovery, enhanced Trucks, Emergency Vehicles) The model built must be based on a 'REAL' vehicle and not a paper project (unless that project reached a working prototype trials vehicle stage) If any offering is in-doubt, the builder should provide evidence of its existence The Host/co-Host decision is final Exclusions: Sci-fi variants (as used in Film or TV) What-if's including Fantasy, Post Apocolyptic, Steam-Punk etc Paper projects which did not reach working prototype stage Voting: Will initially be in a single block however, If sufficient entries present themselves to the Gallery, seperation may occur by either: Scale, Era, Soviet vs Other, Geography or similar arrangement - all to be determined after the closing date but prior to voting Sign Up Takers: 1) Shermaniac (Host) 2) Smuts (co-Host) 3) AaCee26 4) vppelt68 5) corsairfoxfouruncle 6) Antoine 7) Ozzy 8) Modeling Minion 9) Arniec 10) Bull Basket 11) Plasto 12) sgt squarehead 13) snapper city 14) plastix 15) Robert Stuart 16) Etienne 17) Patman 18) Agent G 19) Das Abteilung 20) Sleeper Service 21) ...
  6. Lend-Lease And Soviet Aviation In The Second World War ISBN : 9781911512264 Helion and Company via Casemate UK During WWII a huge ammount of material and arms was delivered to the Soviet Union, the value of this equipement has been long debated though its been shown that the depletion of German assets fighting on the Eastern front did no doubt help the Allied push into France and Germany. Through no doubt a great deal of research the author has not only made a an investigation into how these deliveries did in fact help the allied cause. The book considers the equipment, how it was delivered and how it was adapted by the Russians for use in their own challenging climate. The use by them, and mastering of equipment the western allies thought ill suited to their own operations is investigated; one of the more well known ones is the P-39. Not well liked by allied Air Forces but extremely well liked by Russian Pilots in the ground attack role. Included are detailed combat assessments prepared by the Soviets with their views on the allied equipment supplied. Aircraft considered in detail are; Hawker Hurricane Supermarine Spitfire Curtiss P-40 Kitty hawk Hawker Typhoon Bell P-39 Air Cobra Bell P-63 Kingcobra Republic P-47 Thunderbolt Short Stirling Curtiss O052 Owl Douglas A-20 Boston North American P-51 Mustang Vougt OS2U Kingfisher Curtiss C-46 Commando de Havilland Mosquito North American B-25 Mitchell Amstrong Withworth Albemarle Handley Page Hampden Dougals C-47 Skytrain Consolidated PBY Catalina North American AT-6 Texan In addition to the official deliveries of aircraft the book looks at those which arrived by accident. The text is supported by nearly 700 photographs, 100 colour aircraft profiles, plus maps and charts. Conclusion It is evident that a great deal of research has gone into this book. It really does give a proper attempt to assess the impact of deliveries of these aircraft to the Soviets. If you're interested in these aircraft in Soviet service, and this part of WWII in particular then its well worth investing in this publication. Very Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. I'm pretty unhappy with Vallejo's Russian & French colours, has anyone else had the same issues? In all the images the dark blue grey for French fighters' upper surfaces, as part of the 3-colour scheme, is just a touch darker than the grey used for the underside. However Vallejo's 71.005 is a slate grey, giving no contrast with the green and dark brown. Again, with Soviet planes, their AMT11 and AMT12 should be mid greys? Nope! Vallejo's 71.304 & 71.308 are both really dark. In fact there's little difference between them. My Lavochkin LA-7 looks really cool, but in a Batman kind-of-way.
  8. Our friends at Begemot have a new decal sheet that's being released, in the shape of the Tupolev SB in 1:72 - a quirky looking medium bomber , which despite its roots in the 1930s, saw service through until the end of WWII, despite any short-comings. The sheet contains 40 schemes from VVS, RKKA, Republic of Spain (Spanish Civil War), and even the Chinese Air Force for a bit of a change! Here's a sneak preview of what's included: It's available from their shop directly now here, and will doubtless filter through to the usual outlets in due course. As an aside (and quite an important one at that), there's going to be a new Su-33 in Syria sheet released in a few days in 1:48 initially, with 1:72 to follow a little later. If you're a fan of Soviet/Russia fast jets in foreign service, you'll want to watch out for it
  9. Nacktgeboren

    ISU-152 Tamiya 1/35

    ISU-152 1/35, Tamiya with Friulmodel tracks. I made it because i've wanted a bit of rest from constructing of B-747-400F 1/72
  10. Decided to start work on building my Eduard Lavochkin La-7 profi pack kit, while waiting for the Vampire to dry. This is my first Eduard kit, first glimpse at photo etch, and first Soviet aircraft. The box and contents are perfectly presented, only one (very shiny) sprue, along with photo etched parts, masking and a detailed sheet of decals. Makes me think attention to detail is important here. I'm considering finishing the aircraft in the colours of Lt.Col. S. F. Dolgushin, having achieved over 500 missions and was regarded as a fighter ace of WWII.
  11. I'm attempting the bobcat models yak 28 p firebar, picked it up today,and first impressions are it looks really nice on the sprues, while ive spent most of my modelling day getting my harrier gr9 a bit closer to completion ive spent the last 45mins dryfitting ,I've not done a whole aircraft in alclad before and i understand from a bit of research that as good of an initial fit is essential to getting a good finish,that is the less damage to panel lines and minimal filler the better,second impressions are ,while not really a criticism the plastic seems a bit waxy, but this is a criticism the mating surfaces of the fuselage are ,to be kind not exactly tamiya,now to be honest i never expected tamiya build quality,but theres going to be a bit more sanding than i would have liked,and hopefully the filler i use,will be ok with waxy plastic,time will tell. Photos tomorrow, cheers Glynn
  12. This beauty arrived yesterday and with the best of intentions I want to finish another swing-winger first (Revell's 1/48 Tornado), but I know what I'm like and there's every chance I'll cave and start this sooner. I've always wanted to build an Su-17/22 so when the KH CAD shot appeared last year it was merely a waiting game! Im surprised there hasn't already been one started here, and the kits come in for quite a bit of stick online (so did Revell's Tornado mind you and mines been a pleasure so far!) so I'm looking forward to seeing if this really is that bad. The he box and content is certainly impressive so far, will post a few more pics tomorrow. Eng
  13. I bought this kit ages ago to make it part of my planned RAF Phantom Black Mike QRA diorama. However in need of some light relief and a break from etch and accuracy I had a couple of hours spare and started to throw this together last night. I then thought it would be appropriate for this GB as the Bear-D was defiantly around in the 1970's so here he is. Sorry for no sprue shot, you'll just have to take my word for the fact it wasn't already started, and the cockpit green is Mr.Hobby Emerald which will do, the windows are so small there is no point doing anything inside.
  14. Nacktgeboren

    ZiL-131, 1/35 ICM

    ZiL-131 timber truck, ICM 1/35
  15. Hello fellow modellers, I hope you are having a pleasant weekend. I am building a 1/72nd scale Amodel Polikarpov I-16 Type 5. Unfortunately something strange happened to the canopy. It is no longer clear, it has gone a milky white and is now opaque. I live in Queensland Australia and had stored it in a little parts tin. I feel maybe humidity or some other factor related to heat caused this change, as it hasn't happened to canopies stored in normal kit boxes or zip-lock bags. It has probably been cooked! I have tried emailing Amodel and they cannot provide a canopy, only complete kits. I then found out that Falcon list an I-16 canopy in their Russian canopy 1/72 set. Unfortunately it isn't listed as an individual item in the Squadron range, so I would have to buy the complete Falcon set. It would be better value for money to buy this set than another I-16 kit, but I can't find any pictures of the Falcon set and wondered if the canopy included is the correct early type I need? It needs to be quite 'tent' shaped and fully enclosed. Does anyone know what type is in the set? Finally, I am hoping to model a Spanish Civil War Example (I know the kit has probably the wrong type of wings. I can live with this - this time ). I did wonder if anyone knows of a picture showing a SCW Polikarpov Type 5 (6?) with the later, open, round windshield rather than canopy? So far I have only seen this on type 10's, but if any type 5's like this existed my problem is solved. I have a good non-fogged one as I left it in the kit box rather than in the 'cooking' tin! I wonder why it became so fogged in that little tin, was it really that warm in there? Thank you for reading All best regards Tony
  16. Soviet BA-20 Armoured Car Hobbyboss 1:35 History The BA-20 was then used in the early stages of World War II. The BA-20 armoured car was developed in 1934 for use by HQ staffs, reconnaissance and communications units. It was derived from the civilian GAZ-M1 car using its chassis, which was itself a modified version of a Ford design, produced by the Nizhny Novgorod-based vehicle manufacturer GAZ. Full production of the BA-20 started in 1935. The chassis was built at the Nizhny Novgorod factory; the body was built at the Vyksinskiy plant, where final assembly of the BA-20 occurred as well. The principal use of the BA-20 was as a scout vehicle. The BA-20's tires were designed to be resistant to bullets and shrapnel by the simple expedient of filling them with spongy rubber. A variant, the BA-20ZhD, could travel on railway lines by replacing the normal wheels with flanged metal rail-type wheels. The vehicle was exported to the Spanish Republican side in the Spanish Civil War, although the vast majority of BA-20s built served with the Soviet Red Army. They first saw combat in the conflict with Japan in 1939 on the Khalkin Gol river in Mongolia (see Battle of Khalkin Gol). The BA-20 was used by the Red Army in the Soviet invasion of Poland later in 1939 and the Winter War against Finland during which 18 vehicles were captured, designating them as PA-6, as well as the early stages of Operation Barbarossa in 1941. Production was ended that same year, with some 4,800 BA-20s having been constructed by that time. Some had flamethrowers instead of the DP-28. In common with most armoured cars derived from cars, the BA-20 was largely road-bound. The lack of all-wheel drive, high ground pressure, and low power prevented it from moving cross-country except on very firm ground. The armour was too thin to stop anything other than fragments or small-arms fire, and the 7.62 mm machinegun was not adequate to penetrate other scout vehicles. The Red Army produced very few wheeled armoured fighting vehicles in the war, but replaced the BA-20 with the BA-64B. The Model Having released several versions of the Russian six/ten wheel armoured cars, Hobbyboss have now released the first of the four wheeled vehicles. This kit is quite small and the box reflects this, adorned with an artists representation of a pair of vehicles travelling at speed on a dirt road, (dry, fortunately). Inside there are seven sprues and one separate part in a creamy beige styrene, one sprue of clear styrene, five vinyl/rubber tyres, a small sheet of etched brass and a smallish decal sheet. As usual the mouldings are superb, with no sign of imperfections or flash, but quite a few moulding pips to clean up. In comparison with the previously released BA-3 and BA-6 armoured cars this looks to be a nice “simple” build. Construction begins with the engine, which is a nice little representation of the real thing, just a shame it won’t be seen when the model is finished. The block is made from two halves to which the separate head and sump are attached, followed by the gearbox and bell housing. The ancillaries, such as the starter motor, idler bearing, alternator, fuel pump and filters are fitted, along with the drive belt and fan. The chassis comes as one part, making life a whole lot easier than the multipart chassis in the BA-3/6. The chassis is fitted with two crass braces of the mounting the gearbox, after which the engine assembly can be fitted. The wheels are next on the op list, with each tyre being fitted with inner and outer rims, brake assemblies. The front wheels also having steering mounts attached. The wheels are then fitted with their respective suspension beams, each of which are fitted with a pair of leaf springs, and the front fitted with the steering rack, whilst the rear suspension beam incorporates the differential and is fitted with the drive shaft. The wheel assemblies are then to the chassis, along with the exhaust silencer, gear linkages, and another cross beam and is put to one side whilst construction moves onto the body work. The single piece floor pan, which incorporates both front and rear wheel arches is fitted out with the headlights, storage boxes, seat squabs, gear stick, two piece seat backs and the engine firewall, which itself is fitted with the dashboard, coaming, steering column and wheel. On the underside of the floor pan, the petrol tank and battery box are attached to the rear, followed by the chassis assembly, followed by the exhaust pipe, and front mounted heavy duty crossbeam. The radiator is attached to its five piece mounting beam before being glued into position. The single piece armoured body is fitted out with the two front mounted vision ports, each of which is fitted with an operable hinge and can be posed open or closed, although there isn’t a lot of interior detail to see, so probably best to keep them closed. The access doors and engine hatches are then attached to the outside of the body, along with the towing eyes and pioneer tools. The modeller has the option of fitting a large aerial that fits around the top of the body for the command vehicles. The aerial is first fitted with the six support arms before being glued in place. The two front mounted radiator doors can also be posed in the open or closed position once the body assembly is attached to the floor pan/chassis assembly. The small turret is fitted with the single machine gun and it’s ball mounting and plate before the turret base is attached. The completed turret is then attached to the mounting ring on the rear of the body completing the build. Decals The small decal sheet is very nicely printed, with very little carrier film, and good opacity, (a good thing since they are all white). Whilst you get the option to build any one of five different vehicles, or more, if you include the various numbers provided, they are all in the same Russian Green overall scheme. I’m sure there are other schemes that the modeller can paint this vehicle in, it’ll just take a bit of research. Conclusion This is actually a very pleasant change when compared with the big six wheeler armoured cars. The suspension is so much simpler and nicer to build and on the whole a lot less of a bind. All in all a very nice little kit that most modellers could build in a weekend or less, depending on their abilities, great for keeping the mojo. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  17. Hi everyone! I decided to start something new on the side and get off the F-16 I am building for a while because I am getting a bit burnt out with it to be honest. I decided to start something fresher and I thought simpler.... naive I am!! So I decided to start with the Hasegawa Mig-27 Flogger D in the 1/72: This particular release is from 2003 although I am suspecting it comes from an old old kit as a quick search in Scalemates suggests. Also the combination of raised and depressed panel lines suggests. Furthermore there some significant flash in the kit pointing to a worn out mold. So these are the sprues out of the box: Plus a clear sprue with the 2 piece canopy, which can be mounted either close or open and a couple of clear part for signaling lights on the side of the main fuselage. Some details of a few parts: Flash: Now off we go! First things first I did the research in the following websites if you wanna have a look around (best walkarounds I could find): http://scalemodels.ru/news/4987-Walkaround-mig-27-kokpit-tekhnicheskijj-muzejj-toljatti-rossija-MiG-27-Flogger-cockpit-Tolyatti.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3565-Walkaround-mig-27k-iz-gosudarstvennogo-muzeja-aviacii-zhuljany-kiev.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3566-Walkaround-mig-23bm-mig-27-Flogger-D-zhuljany-kiev.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3082-mig-27k-v-muzee-aviacionnojj-tekhniki-v-borovojj.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/1737-Walkaround-mig-27-irkutsk-MiG-27-Flogger-D-Irkutsk.html ( THIS IS MY MAIN REFERENCE) http://scalemodels.ru/news/1373-Walkaround-mig-27-saratov-MiG-27-Flogger-Saratov.html I am not sure if I am missing something but first thing to strike me was the nose. Completely wrong shape, at least for the Flogger D model, which should be as follow: (http://scalemodels.ru/modules/photo/viewcat.php?id=24979&cid=567&min=60&orderby=dateA&show=12) Photo credit True that there are differences between the mig-27 models: But all those nice targeting systems on the nose (Kaira-1 system) completely non existing on the Hasegawa kit! So I set myself to fix this offend! Original nose: A bit of standard Milliput and water to shape the Kaira-1 system main structure: Sanding and reshapping will follow to lower the profile of the structure, also painted the sockets black and cut open the frontal element of the Kaira-1 using a photo-etched mini saw: Now time for the optics! Clear sprue which has been reshaped thinner and polished: Cut the tip for the frontal element of the lens (see reference picture above): A smear of CA and it is fixed! Now the second optical element at the front: This is just a clear styrene sheet cut and glued into place # Next will be covering all elements with the armoured glass windows which will be more clear styrene sheet and nose it is ready to go! I have also been working on the frontal wheel bay which again kit version is FAAAAAAAAAAAAR from reality! I will prepare another post just focusing on that one After that comes the cockpit which in the kit is mysteriously missing! As always comments / suggestions are more than welcome! Hope you like this Cheers, Alex P.S. if you wanna check my F-16 build this is the link http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965428-172-heller-f-16-ab-old-issue-first-model-fighter/
  18. STEEL Seatbelt Sets German WWI, British Late, IJN and Soviet 1:32 Eduard Eduard are continuing their build up of the steel seatbelt range with the release of these four sets. As we have found with the previously released sets, these are also pre-painted and appear to be remarkably flexible, and even with quite rough handling the paint adheres to the metal really well. They are still made from 0.1mm sheet with the resulting etch is thin at around 0.06mm and have the same details printed on them, such as the webbing, stitching, and shadowing. Unlike some sets, all the buckles and clasps are etched as part of the strapping, so there is no fiddly work required to assemble each belt. [32874 – IJN Fighters] – There are six complete sets of belts in total on the single sheet. There are two for Mitsubishi late war, two for Nakajima and two for Kawanishi aircraft. All the lap straps are included but it appears that only the Mitsubishi and Kawanishi aircraft that used a shoulder strap arrangement. [32875 – Soviet WWII Fighters] – There are four complete belts included on the single sheet. Two of the belts are for Yakovlev aircraft and two are for Lavochkin aircraft. The Yakovlev shoulder straps are joined at the top, whilst the Lavochkin are separate, The instructions are nie and clear which set to use. [32878 - Late RAF WWII] – This sheet contains three complete seatbelts, all in a beige colour and with separate lap straps. All three shoulder harnesses are of the same type, naturally, and I believe they are meant to attach to the armoured bulkhead. [32879 – German WWI ] – The single sheet in this set contains enough belts to fit out at least six aircraft, if I have counted them correctly. There are just two variations with shoulder straps, the rest being just lap straps. With these you can detail your Fokkers, Albatros CIII, Hanover CI.II and other multi seat types. Conclusion Whilst many modellers are able to make their own seatbelts if they are not happy with the kit items, even if they are included, there are those who like the ease of using these style belts. The pre-painted look is, perhaps a little clinical, although there is some shading around the straps and clasps, but they can be weathered to your own personal taste. Review sample courtesy of
  19. Mak_the_Knife

    ACE GAZ-67B 1/72

    Hello all, long time lurker but first time posting an 'in progress'. This is my first 'ACE' kit, and in fact I have done no research about this subject at all. The kit was a gift from my good friend Procopius, and I thought: "What the hay?" ​Before I read the box, I had no idea this thing existed. Based on the instructions, I'm going with a post war version, and model it with...something. Maybe a T-34 or my T-55. Anyways, the kit has all kinds of fiddly photo-etch which I've never had great luck with. Currently I cut out the radiator ​core in anticipation of a PE replacement and looking forward in the (two-steps of the) directions. Apparently you're also supposed to cut of the front bumper, bend a piece of PE and glue it on the frame rails... I'll wait to see if I can get the PE bumper anywhere near correct before I start cutting. Anyways, PICTURES! The awe inspiring box top... For the life of me I couldn't figure out how I was going to cut the radator core out. It was fairly thick, and I didn't have nearly enough blades to try to cut it out. Yay pin vise! And the cleared out core ready for some sweet, sweet brass goodness...
  20. The_Lancaster

    Tamiya 1/35 JSU-152

    Hi all, I have here the last of my bench clogging builds that have been collecting over the past two years. Now this build had been started nearly a year ago but for some unknown reason I boxed it complete and stashed it with it only requiring it's track and tow cable, only for me to find it about a month ago expecting it still packaged but actually built... the words 'brain-fart' come to mind there... Besides, I placed the tow cable on and decided against both the link and length track and the rubber bands finding myself having to spend a few evenings drilling my fingers friul track out. The track turned out pretty well once submerged in track burnishing liquid. Upon painting the tank I used the Hannant's Enamel Xtracolour Russian Green to give it a relatively convincing Russian finish. I then decided to abandon the decals and try painting the decals for myself in some hair-brained thunk but this build was relatively lucky for me and so far everything was going as planned and I was rather happy with the white band, it's streaks and the crude Russian stars which were a mix of me trying to be historically accurate and my less than brilliant art skills. Moving onto the weathering stage I took to the brown paint and packing sponge on a stick to replicate heavy chipping which I might of over-done on the reserve fuel tanks but everywhere else went alright. A Klear coat was applied to seal the enamel paints in so I could then get to work with enamel thinners and oil paints to create first a dark orange filter and then a series of streaks using similar dark oranges for rust, raw umber for grime and a watered down mix of scarlet and raw umber for diesel spills on the reserve fuel tanks. A graphite stick was used on the road wheels to show the metallic nature of them. I also used a mix of Humbrol's 29 Enamel Dark Earth and Humbrol's Model-filler to create the mud paste that I seem to enjoy too much making and stippled it all over the mud guards and running gear. I didn't go overboard however as I believed that as this is meant to show a tank trundling round Berlin, although it would be in an environment of nothing more than hard-core and rubble I just wanted to show what was built up to be that of rubble and dust that had been made into a slurry by rain etc. Thanks for looking! Sam Just as an Add-on, the flag was milliput rolled around a mutilated toothpick rubbed in raw umber. Although the 'flag pole' is way too large I thought it would make more sense that the crew would of rustled up any format of stick to hang the colours of their beloved motherland on. Again, thanks! Sam
  21. Hey all I present my first fully completed project vehicle. This a 1/35 Revell BTR-70 I've had sitting on my for years windowsill for years as a three-tone GDR version. After a foray into respraying an old T-80 in Olive Green, and discovering it has a bang-on Soviet armour look, I decided to recolour my BTR. I then used some old decals from a Tamiya T-62 (I don't know how accurate the combination is), and put to use some old desert Mig Pigments in my first attempt to weather up some armour (my first successful attempt was a Y-Wing). I have some old Dragon Motor Rifle Troops as well, which need a bit of tidying up to go with it. The cardboard I have it resting on has me thinking of a simple dusty base for it, roughly the same size as the vehicle. The vehicle itself is missing the odd component. I think I have the parts somewhere but, couldn't be bothered to find them, lol. Going to add a tiny bit of stowage that I have that would suit a Russian vehicle, namely a single Jerry can that differs from the rest (I don't know what it was from originally), and maybe a sleeping roll or two and a folded tarp. Overall, I think it turned out quite well. I did worry that it looked a bit heavy at first, but it seems to have worked out Looking forward to any thoughts you guys have Gaz
  22. cathasatail

    Tu-16K cockpit and bomb bay references?

    Good evening everyone, I picked up a Trumpeter 1:72 Tu16k-10 (Badger C) recently and I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of the badger's bomb bay or cockpit. Preferably, I would like to know about colours- what colours should I use for the cockpit interior and the bomb bay interior? I'm planning on fitting it with the AS6 Kingfish missiles on the wing mounting points, with a variety of bombs inside the bomb bay- was this a typical loadout or was the aircraft purely fitted with anti-shipping missiles? Many thanks, Sam
  23. So I've been rather tied up recently with a number of things including exams, coursework and fencing, but I've managed to get a bit of time to myself- I've done some more work on the B52 but fancied giving armour a go, so I give you my first ever 1/35 build! It's the Tamiya T-72M1 in Soviet colours- generally a great kit, not really got any complaints and hope to do more 1/35 in the future. Painted with Army Painter colours (fancied giving them a go) and weathered with Citadel acrylic washes and humbrol powders. (also pictured with a Russian hat I bought in Berlin about a month ago) Hope its not too bad for a first effort! -Flash
  24. Is pleased to present a new model in 1/48 scale.
  25. Just to show that I'm not just someone who prattles on endlessly about aeroplanes and models, but someone who actually, occasionally completes models, for your pleasure are some piccies of an Il-2 Shturmovik I had made for a magazine article a few years back (sadly, the article was never published). This is, as the title would suggest, the single-seater version of the Il-2 Shturmovik as realised by Hobby Boss in 1/32nd scale. The kit itself is very nicely moulded, with no flash, and has nice engraved detail. There were some errors that had to be corrected, mainly amongst them the metal rear fuselage, which was rare with the single-seaters (and unknown for the GPW two-seaters). To fix this I sanded down the fuselage until the panel lines and rivets disappeared. Alternately, you could fill in the engraved detail on the rear fuselage with putty, then sand it down. The shape and dimensions all appear to be dead-on, and with a little work, this can be made into a fine representation of the Il-2. At the time I was making this model, Eduard had just come out with their interior and exterior sets, so most of the additions to the interior were scratchbuilt. The basic engine is provided, and is accurate, but without many of the accessories and pipes and wiring, which had to be scratchbuilt. I go into more detail about this kit in my soon-to-be published book (due to be released in January, hopefully), so I'll just post the pictures and let them do the talking. A picture is worth a thousand words, etc. Enjoy! Best Regards, Jason P.S. The name of the book is "Il-2 Shturmovik: Red Avenger". Look for it in all fine (and not so fine) bookstores and outlets! Sure to be a classic!
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