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Found 67 results

  1. Hi everyone. This is my first post here. I’d like to share a model I’ve been working on for a while. Its based on a drawing by artist Rob Turpin <https://thisnorthernboy.wordpress.com/> I really like the design of this ship . It has a real Moebius/Heavy Metal/ 70’s sci-fi paperback vibe that I really dig. I also like that its just a marker sketch and I can flesh out the details as I go. I found a 40mm styrene test tube, so I'll be using a piece of that for the bubble canopy. Based on this, it follows that the final model will be about 300mm long. The scale is ~ 1:87 (HO) I turned the base for the canopy on the lathe from some 2"polystyrene rod that I got from a local supplier. I also made the bottom ring to be glued on to add some extra detail. I cut a section out and fit in this gunpod from an airplane kit. The kit part was sanded to match the contour of the test tube. The gap was then sculpted in with epoxy putty. I vacuum-formed the front section out of .060" styrene over a form made from some high-density foam. The final thickness wound up being about half that. I had just made the vacuum former the month prior and this model is it's maiden voyage. The convoluted middle section was turned from the same 2" rod. That's all for now. Thanks for tuning in.
  2. Bullbasket

    Austin Tilly.

    A bit of a change for me as this doesn't have tracks or a big stick out in front that goes BANG! I've been toying with the idea of getting one of these for some time now, so while I was at Telford this year, I decided to buy one. It's an excellent kit with some very delicate parts. Built straight from the box, it makes up into a nice little model, but I don't do OOTB, so the knives, razor saws, files and drill bits were got out. One thing that does let it down a bit are the wheels, or to be more accurate, the tyres. The tread pattern is very poor, so I have ordered a new set from Hussar. There are many detailing sets available for the Tilly, some to me, a waste of money as it's fairly easy to scratch build some of those parts. Archer decals do a set of decals for the dash board, but Tamiya already include these in the kit. So why pay twice? But one part that none of them do are the three vents on each side of the bonnet. Tamiya mould them as solid items and it looks to be difficult to hollow them out without doing some damage to the rest of the bonnet, so they may end up just being painted black. Right, so it's straight into it without the preamble of photos of sprues (basically because I forgot to take any before I started removing parts). I made a start on the chassis. The front and rear bumpers mountings are quite delicate. The engine is a little gem, needing only a few extra bits and pieces such as piping and wiring. This kit lends itself well to being built in sections. This is the cargo section. I've removed the tie down hooks from the side with a chisel blade. The part that received the largest amount of work was the tilt. First job was to cut out the forward part and clean it up. Then I added three frame hoops which I bent to shape using brass rod, making sure that they were trimmed to the correct length so that the tilt would sit correctly on top of the cargo section. I shaved off the moulded on tie downs and drilled five holes ready to add some string later on in the build. Thanks for looking. John.
  3. I've had a few setbacks over the last few weeks which has affected my modelling mojo considerably, in fact I haven't done any modelling since early June: -a flood, back in June, meant I had to box up all my ongoing builds and store them whilst repairs were done. -my laptop went belly-up, which meant an unexpected and expensive new purchase, so couldn't afford to go to Telford -our TV had a fault and it had to go away for repair. None of these issues were insurmountable but I've been struggling to raise any enthusiasm to dig out my kits again and continue with the builds. I am trying to get back into it but just don't seem to have any interest in my previous work and so I have been looking to do something different, which might kickstart the mojo somewhat. I was impressed by Kevin Aris' large-scale SD-14 card model and thought perhaps I could have a go at something like that. The SD-14 kit is too expensive for me though, so I am going to attempt doing something of my own. The plan will hopefully to build an aircraft carrier. Initial drawings have been done and the first frames have been cut out. These frames are for the bow section and in this area the gap between each frame is 3 feet. At this scale that works out at 6.35mm betwen each frame. This means I need to put spacers in between each frame and the best way (I think) is to separator strips to each piece. This should also help to strengthen each frame piece, which is only 0.5mm thick. The plastic strips have been cut and then glued around the edge of each frame section, plus a strengthener piece down the centre. The first frame has been glued into place. It is not the front frame, but No.8 frame and I placed this one first as it gave me room to place a try square either side to ensure the piece was vertical. All the other frames can be formed around this one. These strips are 5.75mm wide which, when added to the 0.5mm frame piece, gives a frame gap of 6.25mm which is near enough for me. So far so good, the tops of the frames are all to a uniform height, it is just the positions of the separator strips that make it all look uneven. I've just made some more calculations and realise that this is going to take a lot of plastic, which invariably is going to work out quite expensive............. However, I have found an alternative which is to use card from cereal boxes rather than plastic. I know where I can get an endless supply of card like this! All I then need is to strenghten the edges with thin strips of plastic and this will reduce the amount of plastic I need to buy for this project. It doesn't look much at the moment, and working with white plastic is not the best for photographing progress however, this is just a start, and is really just an experiment but, hopefully, it will give me the incentive to get back into building again. cheers Mike
  4. A build from 7 years ago: The issue #102 (April 2013) of Skyways has a long article on the Mystery Ship. “Scratchbilt” brand kits could be qualified as the most optimistic kits of all times (no kidding, and you will see why). Their #3 Travel-Air Mystery Ship is portrayed in one of the accompanying photos. The contents are as follows: three printed sheets with a 3 view, patterns, several drawings and depiction of the construction. Also there was a decal sheet by Microscale, two plastic rods and two vacuformed canopies. In this particular case the review should start: “You are on your own” (you were anyway, don’t worry) since the method given to build the model (keel, many half bulkheads, stringers, strip covering, puttying and sanding) could have worked on a larger scale or for a galleon, but it is hopeless in 1/72. The instructions also advise you to ruin other kits by cannibalizing spats and cowls that are an ill-fit anyway. The depicted method for building the stab and wing was used by the Spanish Inquisition. A truly remarkable kit, this “Scratchbilt”. Their logic and business model are equivalent to giving someone a box of rivets, the directions to an iron ore mine, a sketch and a piece of Camembert cheese and tell them to build the Eiffel Tower. I have to concede that they have a sense of humor, though, and that their brand name, “Scratchbilt”, does not hide their purpose. That being said, you still have those decals. Or do you? When David The Irrefutably Unbound from Glen Ellyn sent me some material related to the Mystery Ship, I exhumed the “kit” from the dungeons where it was kept under lock inside a coffer marked “evil”. As you can see in the photos I followed my own path here using wood for the fuselage and spats’ vacuforming plugs, the traditional one-two styrene punch for the rest, and white metal engine, prop and wheels from Aeroclub. The engine had to be modified to fit the plane’s one, which had a particular front case. The short wing struts and landing gear struts were made from brass “Strutz” stock, for which I am indebted to Andrew of England, The Slightly Iridescent. An interior was scratched as per photos, some was structural and some pour la galerie. The first Microscale decal I used was for the instrument panel and it was the source of momentary panic as I had to wait about twenty minutes for the decal to come loose from the backing sheet. Once all the main components were ready, the puttying/sanding/priming/repeat cycle ensued. The painting stage -which involved a good share of masking- required attention. At this point I tried to use the rest of the decals, but the first ones shattered in myriads of little pieces. The ones that remained in the backing sheet were treated with Testors decal bonder, but later on a few more shattered anyway as they were applied. The few remaining ones were given a few coats of Future, but again to no avail. Now, this is not Microscale’s fault, the decal must have been between 20 and 30 years old, and not properly stored. I printed the decals that failed and had a great time cutting the regs from white decal stock. The transparency was cut in three parts, the frames depicted with metal-painted decal strips, and arranged in its open position. The underwing oil coolers were made of thin aluminum sheet, engraved, cut and glued. The two Venturi probes were attached after the photos were taken (the photos of course made me realize that they were still unattached). Regarding real kits, I am aware of the 1/72 Dekno resin model of the Mystery Ship. Many, many pages have been written about the Travel Air Mystery Ship but I can’t tell you anything because of its inherent mystery. No ostriches or people from outer space were harmed during the construction of this model. We would like to extend our thanks to the sponsor, The Intergalactic Soenkish Empire.
  5. Happy Birthday Royal Air Force Today is the 100th Anniversary of the formation of the Royal Air Force. If you did not know that already you are probably on the wrong website. Some time ago I decided that I wanted to mark this occasion by starting a new project on this date and have of late spent much time thinking about what the subject should be. Naturally enough, Spitfires, Hurricanes, Lancasters and myriad of famous post-war types all came to mind, but these are well-covered subjects and so I dwelled on the matter a bit deeper... What about something that was in service on the day the RAF formed? What about something that had served in both the RFC and the RNAS prior to the formation of the RAF? What about something that was crucially important both to the newly formed air force and essentially all of the commonwealth air arms that were to follow? What about the Avro 504! To me, the Avro 504, more than any other single type, captures the spirit and the essence of the nascent Royal Air Force. This type had seen service as a fighter, a bomber and reconnaissance aircraft prior to being 'relegated' to the training duties at which it excelled. By 1918 this was the most numerous aircraft in the RAF (and probably in the world) with more than 7000 being built during World War One alone. In the new air force almost all aircrew had been trained on this type and I should think most of the ground crew as well. It was the foundation of the skills and professionalism that have been the hallmark of the service ever since. So, foolishly, I'm going to have a crack at building one in 1/32 scale. Here are the plans I will be using...provided most efficiently by Len Whalley at 'aeroplans.co.uk’ (Great service thanks Len). As you can see this is a screen-shot of my electronic copy because my friendly computer draftsman at work is on extended Easter holidays. He'll be back soon! In the meantime I'm going to use these plans as a starting point, they are fine for the general layout and dimensions. And here we go... Start with a good straight, clean bit of wood. In this case I'm using Jarrah - just like I did in my Mig 15 build here... www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012524-mig-15-scratchbuild I'm using Jarrah mostly because it's the strongest wood I can get hold of. Having studied the plans I can see that there are going to be some challenges with maintaining the structural integrity of this model, especially once the extensive cockpit has been hollowed out - hence structural strength is going to be a major consideration. It's a beautiful bit of wood this - straight close grain almost flawless. The oval below marks the only knot in the entire plank, it's tiny and is fortunately positioned so it can be easily excluded from the fuselage cut-out. Here I'm marking off the first cut for the fuselage. I'm cutting it much longer than it needs to be for reasons you will see later on. And here it is - the first cut - made on 01 April 2018! Hooray... Two lengths have been cut for the fuselage so that I can work to the natural centre-line thus formed... The wings are being cut from some thin slices of sapelli. Another high-quality hard-wood. I've chosen this because I do not want the wings to sag and think that sapelli will be rigid enough to hold it's shape over time. And here's the rough cut-out of the tailplanes. I think that the tail is going to be the only easy part of the build. And so -after 20 minutes of work I have the very, very rough outline of a biplane... No - this is not an April Fools joke, this really is the start of my model! I don't know how long this is going to take but given the slow pace of my previous (still uncompleted) project that you can see here: www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235021633-hmasm-ae2-scratchbuild I would say this will take at least a year and possibly much longer. I've never built a biplane before. Wish me luck... Best Regards, Bandsaw Steve (ex-Reconcilor)
  6. Courageous

    Tug S.A. Everard

    This is a first for me, a scratchbuild, so let me tell you the reason why. The intention is to build a Japanese Steamer, the Fushimi Maru and that will be a scratchbuild. So before I start on that build, I thought I better 'cut my teeth' on something less demanding, like a tug: to learn some new skills. The deck plan, side profile and the build process of the subject was acquired via @ShipbuilderMN but this is in wood, I don't do wood, so plastic is going to be used. A quick search of 'tug line drawing' revealed these free plans: Although these are not of SA Everard, they are of a very similar tug and good enough for this exercise of boat building. The plans were scaled so as I can use a standard size sheet of plasticard and copies printed. It's going to be waterline, so we have a 'waterline' base cut to shape, marked with the frame locations and a spine fitted. A few frames fitted. Comments welcome Stuart
  7. A model from 6 years ago. The Bellanca 28/92 is indeed an example of how unusual a particular product of a fairly traditional designer family can be. If you consider the other, more known Bellanca types, you would have never guessed this plane descends from the same ADN strand. The only other Bellanca type that trumps the 28/92 in rarity is the very peculiar Bellanca TES Tandem, which I really hope I’ll be able to build one day too. The 28/92 has many similarities with the preceding, more conventional 28/90 racer design. This glamorous trimotor started life as the result of a request for a long-distance flight plane. It was supposed to be flown by Alex Papana, who in 1937 clumsily managed to break it, have a tantrum, and leave the plane unpaid. The plane was entered in the 1938 Bendix piloted by Frank Cordova, but had to abandon. It then placed second in the 1939 Bendix at the hands of Art Bussy. The plane eventually found an obscure end being shipped to Latin America, where it was lost, after being bought by a military representative. What a sad end for such beautiful machine. I have seen models of this plane that have the colored areas on the nose and nacelles painted in red, black, blue and other colors. That seems not to be the case. So far I have found written evidence of it being aluminum overall with the mentioned colored areas in matt green. I would have really liked red or blue instead. The flowing lines and the three engines make this plane very appealing, with a stance similar to those racers flown by the heroes of the comics.
  8. Hello all! I must apologise and confess that I had been drawn to the dark side of non-maritime modelling recently, for which I humbly ask forgiveness! I think my problem is that I hit a brick wall with my previous scratchbuild project, the screw steamer Knight Templar. I managed to get quite a way into that build, but stalled. I have dabbled with a couple of ships, the latest being the Airfix RMS Queen Elizabeth. I have tried a number of times to get back to the Knight Templar, but I have put it on hold for the foreseeable future. I still wanted to do a scratch-build, and @Bandsaw Steve was kind enough to help me out with some plans, for the E23 Submarine, but at the moment I think that would be a step too far, but it will be done sometime. I have Suffolk/Norfolk blood in my veins, and a recent return to my roots has prompted me to have a go at building a Wherry. To that end, I searched Abe Books and found this little gem: Inside, I found these: One plan was scaled at 1 inch =10 feet, and the other was 1 inch = 8 feet. A frantic hour trying to remember schoolboy mathematics and ratios to scale both to 1/72 took place and I whizzed up to my local library to get the scans re-scaled took place. It then took a few tries to get the A4 paper into the right place on the platen, but then I ended up with 6 copies of of each, and then I redid some of them as sacrificial copies for when I start building. To ensure my maths had worked I remembered to take a tape-measure and measured the scale mark to ensure 1 inch = 6 feet! My intention is to try and build it in a similar way to the real thing (plastic allowing) and have some form of interior, and have the hatches removable. The reason I wanted to do it 1/72 was so I could get a couple of crew for it, and it should be easier at that scale.. The book itself is a fabulous read, and Roy Clark has put a lot of detail on construction of wherries into the text. Along with loading, operation and things like lowering the mast when going under bridges. It is amazing to think that most wherries had a crew of two, some only one! One such part reads 'a wherry was not properly loaded unless a robin could drink off her decks'. Now, that got me to thinking about putting her in a Broads waterway, but all I would have was a mast and sail (black of course) and a bit of cargo visible. So I am going to try and do her as a full hull. It is funny how things turn out. I was searching for potential models, and found this: https://www.kartonmodellbau.de/epages/63481486.sf/en_GB/?ObjectID=49327947 Hopefully, it goes to HMV models paper model of Gleaner and Albion. The trouble was it was only 1/250 scale, so they were too small. However, that led me to Albion, which is a wherry that is still in use, and forms the main subject of the Norfolk Wherry Trust, and I have found loads of photographs of that. My model may well end up as hybrid of the two, but the book does give some detail for Gleaner. She was built in 1894 and was originally called 'Orion' and had a load limit of 25 tons, so was a smaller wherry. He also gives details of Gleaner's colours, so hopefully I can get something reasonably close. I am likely to take some time with this, but first I need to figure out how I am going to do the hull. My first thought is to try and build the hold, cabin and coal bunker, then build the hull around it, thinking I can pack out the hull easier with a core already built up. I would also like to make the mast swivel on its tabernacle, but I will see about that later if I get that far! Any advice would be greatly appreciated, along with warnings if I say I am going to do something which is patently wrong! I have been known to mis-read plans, and my nautical knowledge is sketchy to say the least... I will report soon, all the best, Ray PS, Some wherries even went to sea, 8 of them sailed around to Gosport from Lowestoft - most made it, one had to be run up onto a beach when she ran into difficulties
  9. Last year I had a go at building a 1/48 aircraft from scratch for the first time. Have to say I learned a lot and enjoyed the process in a way. Still nice then I have had a go at a helicopter with some complex decals and a few fairly out of box kits. But i have been thinking for a bit about what to build next. I had a crazy notion to try a VC-10 but a mock up of that just showed the sheer size of it. So I am not saying never to that idea, just not yet. So something smaller. A Jetstream? Last one was a Dominie, so a bit to similar. Did consider a Britten-Norman Islander, or an Andover, both would be nice. But I settled on an aircraft that used to give cracking displays amongst the jets at 1980’s air shows. And one I built in 1/72 as a kid, but can’t get in 1/48 - even though a page on the internet suggests ESCI made one (they didn’t) So what am I talking about? She will be Dutch and a transport turbo prop. Yes a Fokker F-27 Friendship. Here is the show programme from Airfete 84 - sharing the bill with a Blackbird and Concorde! So how would she look. A quick print out, a bit of cardboard tube and some backing card, and this is what we have Not it as big as you might think. Here with my F-8 Crusader So the scary bits - turbo props & 4 bladed propellers. High undercarriage struts on the wing wheels. Scratching all the undercarriage. The main body is very similar to a stretched Dominie shape, just a bit wider. When will this get started? Who knows. Need to get some 50mm tube, probably go clear tube as before & start to shape up the nose or tail. This website may help https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?346259-Building-of-a-Fokker-27 i don’t really have enough information or good plans, but why let those details get in the way? So I thought, start a thread & then the idea is out there - can’t keep putting it off! Don’t expect lots of quick progress.
  10. Hi all This is a 1/72nd scale scratch-built turret of the first production version of the Ukrainian T-84. I've co-authored a new book on scratch-building techniques, my contribution covers building this in detail from start to finish. https://www.insidethearmour.com/product-page/more-scratchbuilding-masterclass regards Alex
  11. We're currently having building work done in the house so not much motivation, especially for modelling at the moment, therefore I have been spending a little time repairing lost mage links in some older threads. This one is a scratchbuild of a Topol ICBM on a seven-axle MAZ-543 chassis. It was part of a group build in 2013 but I thought I would resurrect the link here in the armoured section. cheers Mike
  12. Hi all, For various reasons I set this project aside back in the summer. Then our photo sharing went belly up. I have gotten back into the model and I have Flickr for my photo sharing. I will be re-posting the earlier pictures over the next few days and updating the text a bit in light of the long break in time. Thanks, Jim The Original Start: I have wanted a model of a Y-wing for some time. In my mind, the Y-wings are rather like the F-4 Phantom family- reasonably fast, rugged, multi-mission, and they were around for a long time. As I thought about a Y-wing model, some baseline goals became apparent. 1. I wanted one in 1/48 scale 2. I wanted a model of a “real” Y-wing, not a model of a filming model 3. I wanted the ship to be in flight 4. I wanted to install lighting (a first for me) 5. The cockpit needed to be deep enough to take a full pilot figure, and while I was at it, I wanted to make a two seater- the Guy In Back should be a WSO however, not a gunner. We’re going to be carrying guided proton bombs as well as the proton torpedoes on a regular basis with this baby! I started by assembling as much information as I could find and drew up some plans. I found a few pictures of a Y-wing filming model from ROTJ from the studio with a tape measure in the image; I resized them to appear in half-studio size on my computer screen and that gave me a length of a little under 14” for a 1/48 scale model. I used the images to make basic measurements and drew up a set of plans from which to build the model. I began collecting bits and pieces, lighting parts, and interesting bits from many sources about three years ago. I found some nylon plumbing pipe which would become the engines, and a wooden egg which I could use to vacuform the front engine domes and the vectral housings at the rear of the ship. Without those elements, there is no Y-wing! Now how can I build this beast? I soon decided that creating open bulkheads, ribs, and stringers (following traditional aircraft construction) would not be as robust as I wanted. Based on goal #2 above, I chose to build a ship with the “guts” on the inside; remember that the filming models were solid shapes with the “guts,” or greeblies, on the outside. But even if you want to show interior spaces you still need a robust model. In reviewing the various Y-wing pictures on-line there appears that there could be a central tub in the fuselage; see the pic below. They show the top edge of the tub shape I am talking about. My buddy Boz mentioned the idea of making something like the tub found in F1 racing cars, and that sparked the idea of having a central tub running from one end of the fuselage to the other. I added a series of solid bulkheads plus quarter-round pieces to give greater gluing surface, and in the end I got a fairly robust tub which I could add details to, both inside and outside the tub itself. More to come!
  13. Hello everyone, I've been looking around here for a while and now it's my turn to contribute. I returned back to modelling a couple a years ago. And after building a couple of models I found that my creativity wasn't triggered enough by just putting together pieces someone else had made. I read all I could find on the internet and when I felt like I knew enough to start I kicked away. This build started somewhere last spring so I try to recreate the progress. Materials used, scrap electronics, cardboard, plasticard and spare parts from other kits. First step was using an old dock station for a laptop as a base and detailing it, this would later become the centre area underneath the spaceship.
  14. Dear forum members, I have seen the wonderful Turbolaser diorama from Tony Agustin from 2003. I was so fascinated from his work that I decided to build one as well. As I was not a model maker and have never tried to build something from scratch this project has been a big challenge for me. The X-Wings are from Bandai 1:72. In total it took me 200 hours +. I hope you like it!
  15. Dear forum members, After my first scratchbuilt model (Turbolaser Diorama) I have decided to try it with a second one. A studio scale Snowspeeder 1:10 scale. This project has been a big challange for me as this whole modelling still feels new to me. In advance sorry for not posting the progress of my work for the past 14 month. I wasn't convinced that I could build this model and did not want to post pictures of something what ends in a chaos. The Snowspeeder is one of my favorite models from Star Wars. Another reason for building it was that I thought that I won't need to vacuum form any parts and could build all parts somehow pretty easy. At the end it wasn´t so easy, for me very complicated and much harder than the Turbolaser diorama. The main issue was that the Turbolaser gave me some freedom to build it in scale, the Snowspeeder not. If there is anything out of scale or shape you see it immediately and it doesn't look good. I have bought a Bandai Snowspeeder 1:48 and upscaled it as good as possible. I have also used all pictures which I could find online. I wanted to build a big 1:10 studio scale model, like what they have used in the film. The model is about 55 cm long, completely scratchbuild from styrene parts and building time is 6 month until now. I started it 14 month ago but meanwhile I took an 8 month break from the build as I didn‘t want to see it anymore. Many parts needed to be build twice because I made mistakes. Now as the model is very advanced I wanted to show it here in this forum first. It is still not finished, some things are still to do and it also need to be painted. This will happen during this year I hope. Please find attached some pictures of my model. Almost all parts except the fuselage are not glued yet because I want to paint the fuselage first. All other parts are fixed with tape for the pictures which looks not perfect but good enough to get an impression I think. I hope you like the pictures of my Snowspeeder. Thank you and best regards, Mark
  16. Kick-off Hello, I have spent the last 6 months working on a scratchbuilt Mig 15 and that project is now drawing to a close. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012524-mig-15-scratchbuild/& Consequently, I've been thinking a lot about my next project and after much deliberation, including considering a very, very wide range of possible subjects, I have decided to try something completely different to my usual aviation related fare. I am going to try to build His Majesty's Australian Submarine AE2. This is a project that I has been in the back of my mind for over a decade now and when a fellow modeller offered to lend the following set of plans to me, all thoughts of other projects evaporated. In my view Allied submarines in WW1 are under represented in the modelling world, so I'm going to try to do my little bit to correct this. AE2 was an early E-Class submarine operated by the Royal Australian Navy. On the evening of 25 April 1915 (while the Gallipoli landings were underway) she successfully penetrated the extremely formidable Turkish defences in the Dardenelles Straight and proceeded to 'run amok' in the sea of Marmara. During a short-lived but very intensive period of raiding she caused considerable disruption to Turkish attempts to reinforce and supply their defences on the Gallipoli peninsula. On the 30th of April AE2 was damaged by the Turkish torpedo boat Sultanhisar and, unable to dive to safety, her captain decided to scuttle her. All hands survived the scuttling and spent the rest of the war as P.O.W's in Turkey where they suffered terribly. Four of the vessel's compliment of 32 died during their incarceration. In 1998 the wreck of the AE2 was located and found to be in remarkably good condition, mostly due to it's partial immersion in anoxic mud. A thorough campaign to preserve the wreck in-situ continues to this day. The possibility of recovering the wreck has been discussed at length, and although probably technically feasible would be a very high risk and highly expensive project. So - in the meantime a model will have to do! I have not yet started any physical construction - so there's not a lot to see yet but, most unlike me, I have been conducting some additional research. And just as well too because it turns out that the drawings above are for a mid-war configuration E-class submarine which in some significant regards was different to the early war AE2. For example, the mid war submarine had a gun mounted ahead of the conning tower and had two forward torpedo tubes instead of AE2's single tube. There are other differences also. Suffice to say that this set of plans from the RAN's historical page on their website will help me nail down the correct configuration. The model itself will be: 1 / 100 scale Waterline - surface trim Scratchbuilt - although I might resort to some aftermarket details here and there. It will not be a cutaway (despite various people suggesting the idea) Predominantly made from wood, but expect to see some brass and plastic sheeting and a few other bits and pieces as well. I am hoping to have physical construction under-way this week and am aiming to have it finished by the end of 2017 but really don't have any idea how long this will take as I'm completely new to this maritime modelling lark. My plan for this job is basically to 'muddle through' so any encouragement and expert advice from the sidelines will be most appreciated! Best Regards, Reconcilor
  17. You know those occasions when you get a crazy idea and just have to give a try? Well this is one of those. There's far from any guarantee of success or completion, but fortune favours the brave and all that..! Having a real soft-spot for the Avro Shackleton I've decided to do something really stupid and have a go at scratch-building one in 1/32nd scale. As I'm sure we're all aware there's kits available in 1/72nd and 1/48th scale, but nothing in 1/32nd so the only option is to start from scratch. I have an old ID Models 1/32nd Lancaster in the stash, and always planned to convert that to a Lincoln. However, when doing some research on the Lincoln I discovered that the wing and centre section (although widened on the Shackleton) were in essence the same airframe. Therefore I thought, making a Shackleton using the Lancaster as a parts donor could be a viable option... The first phase of the project was to find some plans. The Warpaint Series on the Shackleton came up trumps, and although these plans are far from perfect they've given me enough to get started. I duly enlarged them to 1/32nd scale and cobbled together a reasonable outline for a MR2 which is the version I'm hoping to replicate. You can see the size this model will (hopefully) be when finished when you put the Airfix 1/72nd kit on top: With that done it was sourcing the key components of a project like this - various thicknesses of plastic card: And of course the ID Models Lancaster: I then set about building up the centre section from plastic card formers, using the bomb bay roof as the structural centre-point. Wing spars have been made integral to the structure for strength and stability. I'm not going to worry too much about an interior to the fuselage, as it'll all be sprayed black and next to nothing will be visible through the small fuselage windows. The forward flight deck area will be fully replicated, though: The plan is to use the Lancaster fuselage sides for the 'skinning' of the model, and other areas will be 'planked' and blended with filler from thin plastic card strips. With the fuselage centre section progressing well and having cut my teeth on making bulkheads and formers etc., I had the confidence to have a go at making the nose section. This is a lot more tricky as there are many complex shapes and subtle curves to try to replicate, especially around the extreme nose where the bomb aimer/gunner's glazing. Again, the interior won't an accurate structural representation of the real thing, but being black and only the extreme nose interior being visible there shouldn't be too many problems here. As with the fuselage, the basic shape of the formers were made from plastic card and assembled to give a skeleton that'll be skinned in due course: I haven't made the 'roof' to the nose compartment yet as some form of interior needs to be added, as well as the observer/gunner's transparencies and its associated fairings: So this is where we're currently at: And alongside the 1/72nd scale version for a 'size reality check!' As I said at the start, there's no guarantee of success in the long term, but I'm having a blast right now! Tom
  18. Hi folks, This is my mad "what shall I build for next year's anniversary of the first moon landing" project. The (stupid idea at my age) plan will be to construct a launch tower (LUT) and platform (MLP) for an Airfix 1:144 scale Saturn V kit. This is just a placeholder at the moment, as there will be weeks of research, scaling diagrams and making drawings before I reach the stage of cutting any plastic. Caveat: I don't expect this build to be anywhere near the standards of Manfred's Shuttle or RichO's Crawler, but I do intend to have fun attempting something. Mike
  19. This is a special commission build for Ian at Wee Friends Models, It will be a complete rolling chassis and cab for which there will be a variety of back bodies made available in kit form. The request was for a brand new scratch built master of an Austin K6 in 1/72 scale, using original chassis drawings I prepared a GS length chassis, there will also be different chassis lengths made to accommodate some of the back bodies.... Once that was done it was on to the hard bit.... The cab... this is my first ever attempt at anything quite so ambitious so I was a little daunted at the prospect of having to scratch-build one of the hardest cab shapes.... This was my first attempt at it..... The yellow resin cab behind is a Road Transport Images Austin K3 cab in 1/76 that sports the same crew cab as a K6 and is what I started to use as a reference for cab roof shaping..... And with a part built Airfix Austin K6 cab from their Rescue set also used as a shaping reference.... It was while I was looking at this image that I had a "Eureka " moment..... To make the cab easier and faster to make why not use the Airfix cab as a Vac-Form mould??.... With it being 1/76th scale and my requirement was for 1/72 it made sense to use the smaller as a former to make the bigger..... And so..... I set about making a Vac-form machine out of my mould making Vacuum chamber and pump..... I then converted the Airfix cab into a mould block, and got forming, to get the thickness of plastic and also build up the scale I had to laminate repeated layers of plasticard on top of one another, after my third attempt at it I came out with this..... A bit of shaping went on using a file, sanding sticks and needle files to get this..... And with its first test shot of primer to show up pits, blemishes and faults..... during this project I also invested in some new machinery to make like a little easier, not knowing how much actual use it would get I bought the cheap copy of the Unimat1 6in1 tool, so far its been a god send, although the 3 jaw lathe chuck was total poop straight out the box, literally seizing solid on me the first time I used it, no big drama as I now use a Dremel arbor to hold wheels,...... here I have it set up as a milling machine to face up the windscreen angles...... Yet more shaping and sanding..... Things moved on quite quickly after that, here it sits in its second test shot of grey primer to show up the blemishes, and now also windows are cut in and shaped, the engine and radiator are fitted and in the last few pics the start of the interior base plate that will also locate the cab to the chassis..... Stay tuned for more, which will include the radiator grill and engine covers, and then the chassis and suspension..... ATB Sean
  20. Nacktgeboren

    Boeing 747-400F 1/72

    Hello All, I'm going to build a big one
  21. With my Op Husky Sherman getting to the point where I'm waiting for bits to arrive/cure, I thought I'd get started on that staple of British armour modelling subjects, a Sherman from the El Alamein battles in late 1942, specifically, Cricklade of the Royal Wiltshire Yeomanry, 9th Arm Bd, attached as support to the 2nd New Zealand Division. A fairly well known, I think, picture of the tank in question: Sprues: missing parts are being used in my Op Husky build. Also shown are the tracks that arrived in the post this morning from Gaso-line in Paris. I've had to chase Friendship models for the upper hull and bogies, as despite ordering them at the same time as the tracks, they still haven't shown up. Not shown is the AM decal sheet by Bison that came to me courtesy of the most generous @Bullbasket. Some people may ask why I'm using the kit turret for this build, rather than the Husky build. Well the Husky mantlet will be covered in waterproofing fabric, and I intend to use that to cover any flaws in my resin cast M34 mantlet which is still cureing, and since I have no resin turret either, its got to be this way around if I'm going to keep working on this GB in between detailing the Husky lower hull..
  22. Does anyone have any schematics, drawings and/or dimensions for the trailer that the Bristol Bloodhound missile was transported on? Apart from photo's of the Airfix kit and some grainy b/w images, I haven't been able to work out the correct size or shape of the trailer. Can anyone assist please? cheers Mike
  23. Hi! Simply-scratchbuild in 1/48 scale
  24. Bandsaw Steve

    Mig 15 Scratchbuild

    Hello, I am new to this site and this is my first post - so please forgive any technical errors in what may follow... I used to scratchbuild model aeroplanes when I was a kid. After many years of building 1/48 kitsets I decided to have another go a scratchbuilding the old fashioned way, just for fun. I am in the process of building a 1/48 scale Mig 15 bis from scratch (with one or two aftermarket parts to speed things up a bit). I hope you enjoy following along. I'm hoping to have the project finished early 2017. Here are the plans I am using - graciously provided by a well-known aviation modelling magazine. it's a good idea to photocopy the plans several times before you start - you will need plenty of copies. Note that this set of plans also came with an underside view - it's just not in this shot. I also have a few books and articles on this subject - but I'm definitely no 'rivet counter' so I'm not going to allow myself to get bogged down in too much research. If you like laser accurate models - look away now - this one will be 'good enough' and that'll be that! Note the presence of the cross section profiles on the plans- they are very important. I selected a good piece of wood - straight grain no knots - in this case very hard Jarrah from Western Australia, but I daresay any decent strong wood with a straight grain should be fine. I like to use hard wood - never balsa - because hardwoods hold any carved detail better, they provide much needed structural strength and are less susceptible to surface damage such as scratches and dents. Cut out the relevant drawings and stick em on. I used PVA glue; nothing fancy - but if anyone can suggest a better alternative I'm all ears. Carefully Cut around the paper profile using a bandsaw, you could use a fret saw but a bandsaw saves a lot of time. in this shot the side profile is cut but the wood not removed (note the scalpel blade stuck in the cut as a marker for the photograph- I don't remove any wood until both profiles are cut as it's much easier to run the bandsaw against a smooth surface and not the contour left from the first cut. I also leave surplus wood beyond the end of the fuselage (both tail and nose). This excess wood can be used as a handle during some of the subsequent work. After both cuts are made you have the rough shape, in both side view and plan view of a Mig 15 fuselage. It doesn't look like much at this point - but stay tuned - with a bit of luck it will get a bit better over time.
  25. Finished the first of 3 configurations of my 100% scratch built 1/72 scale Austin K6 with Type 13/14 Radar. This configuration is 'Stowed, ready to move'..... This will be released as a Very Limited Edition resin kit at the end of this month, PM me for further details if you are interested. For those that have not seen the other 2 configurations they can be seen here..... ATB Sean
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