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Found 81 results

  1. Morning All, I didn't mean to start this kit, its been in the stash for a while now waiting for me to build up some skills, and nerves. I was waiting for the canopy to dry before masking on a 1/48 Spitfire and had the glue and airbrush out, and I thought "let's have a look" The next thing I know the hulls been glued together... How'd that happen? I blame SWMBO, saying I need to reduce the stash, as if that's going to happen! I cannot say enough good thinks about Flyhawks kits. I've got the Aurora, Niad and Legion in the stash. They're superb examples of modern manufacturing. The go together easily, smart box layout to avoid breakage and can fit all budgets with the basic or the kits with extras. So on with what I've done. This is the upgrade kit, with photo etch included, I'll be leaving that lot till a bit later. Aurora can be either full hull or waterline. If normally go with waterline but I thought I'd have a look at what she was like with her bottom attached. 5 pieces, a bit of glue and you have a full hull and decks! Primed with Tamiya extra fine primer and then a blast of Lifecolour 507c all over. I masked off the boot topping, Vallejo model air black I think, then tried to get a good B20 substitute. I have the Lifecolour B20 but it looks far to grey. So I mixed up some Model air PRU faded blue and EDSG. After this flurry of activity I got fully carried away and started applying the AK interactive enamel weathering range to her. This is where I got to before I actually stopped and looked critically at her I really wasn't happy with the fake B20, and the Lifecolour grey kept flaking off every time I masked over it. I quite like most of my weathering, but I think I went a bit too heavy. So... Off it all came and start again. I used Vallejo model air sky grey and Tamiya XF-18. Vallejo hull red and model air black for the boot top. Gloss coats addedd in between everything. I think the sky is too light, but that can be corrected with weathering, and I think the xf-18 needs lightening up, again a bit of weathering should do this. Weathering to come on the hull. Whilst I was waiting for some of the layers to dry I made a start on the wooden decks, something I've never done before. Tamiya deck tan and wooden deck tan with a wash of AK interactive deck wash. I think I did about 5 coats of each colour, done in streaks, then gave it a wash with the AK. Think it needs lightening up, and a light spray to bring it all together. Very happy with it so far tho! We, that's a lot of waffle from me with only a few pics, double painting, and only 5 of the 200+bits glued together! This could take a while! Oh, and while I was taking a couple of these pics this morning, I couldn't help put some of the larger parts on, just to see... She enjoyed her little tour round the house, firing off broadsides as she went. We're all 6 years old at heart aren't we? That'll do me for now, up next, finishing off the deck, weathering the hull, working out if I'm going to put her in a seascape or on a pedestal(really should have done this earlier) and onto the really small fiddly bits, oh and pe..... Thanks for looking in. Geoff
  2. Royal Navy WW2 Colours Lifecolor I’ve been trying these paints out now for the last couple of months so thought it was about time I wrote up the review. I won’t reiterate what Mike has already said about Lifecolor paints HERE. These two sets have been out for quite a while now, but they have only just arrived at BM’s London offices. Fortunately though, I have already used some of the colours on my builds and they do work very nicely. My normal media is enamel but every now and then I like to get the acrylics out, particularly on cold days when I can’t have the patio door open. The first set covers mostly the greys used by the RN, and include:- UA631 – Dark Admiralty Grey 507A UA632 – Medium Admiralty Grey 507B UA633 – Light Admiralty Grey 507C UA634 – Light Grey B20 UA635 – Medium Green-Grey MS3 UA636 – Dark Blue-Grey B5 The second set covers the rather more garish and unusual colours, but also some of the most commonly used:- UA637 – Hull red UA638 – Western Approaches Blue UA639 – Western Approaches Green UA640 – White UA641 – Semtex Green UA642 – Corticene Whilst most of the colours have looked to be just about spot on when used, I found the Hull red a little too brown and dark, there should be a hint redder in my view. Detail painting using a brush proved to be a delight. The paint going on well and drying to the same tone as the sprayed paint, which I’ve found is not always the case when using enamels. For those times when you've left your airbrush uncleaned, or even the brushes you've used, then this new product will be just the job for you. It's designed to be used in conjunction with tap water, much like the paints, and all you have to do is give the brushes a rinse in water, before using the cleaner until the hairs are devoid of paint, when you give them another rinse in water and dry. For airbrushes, you will need to disassemble the airbrush and place in a carton to soak fro between fifteen and twenty minutes.Once cleaned, reassemble the airbrush and spray water through it. It might be an idea to use this cleaner in an ultrasonic bath, should you have one. Conclusion These are great paints, easy to use and with good colour density. The pigments are quite fine and definitely need to be thinned before using in the airbrush, although I found they didn’t clog as much as some. The cleaner is another handy item to have in you paint collection, especially as we don't always clean our airbrushes or brushes as well as we should. The cleaner is just the job for those times when we haven't cleaned our airbrushes or paint brushes as well as we should. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of:
  3. Good evening mates, to be honest, at the moment my Jaguars’ main wheel bays are a little too demanding in terms of …inspiration and I’ve ended up postponing and postponing them. Now there are a few things happening to other members that have let me understand that probably…it’s normal to loose a bit of motivation when a project is taking too long to be brought to an end. Fritag has a perseverance I admire, but we’ve just seen he just went through what first it looked like an experiment (with those PE) and it may turn out as a new job!!! Ex-FAAWAFU was a bit tired with his Sea King and is now going Through Supermarine’ production!!! Perdu is passing with nonchalance from a “Perduxbox” Buccaneer to a “Pernovo” Gannet, Martian’s putting everything else momentarily aside to start a Kamov 28. Forgetting for a moment he did momentarily put his Roc project aside to go on with what seems to have been another project momentarily put aside … the Karel Doorman’s last cruise. This last Thread , whose meaning I understood only on a second time (initially I thought Karel Doorman was a friend of Martian’s!!!) reminded me an old dream I had for a long time , but I never started for lack of …existing models in the right scale (for me 1/48). Back in 2011, on one of my many journeys to the UK, I had bought Aircraft magazine’s April issue, to have something to read in the night. ] In it there was a beautiful article about Ark Royal’s last cruise.I literally felt in love with the opening page picture ( here below ) and I started dreaming of a diorama depicting a Gannet, a Phantom and a Buccaner parked on the flight deck. All those coloured tails were wonderful and a Wessex as that depicted in the article’s third page would have been a nice addiction. At that time, I discussed the idea with my friends modellers and I must say the picture was a real success. But then, the idea only remained an idea for all these years. The “Royal Navy… air” I’ve been breathing since I joined BM and in particular Martian’s friend Karel’s thread brought the old dream back to my mind. The only thing I’d liketo avoid, is to bring the Jaguars to an end first and start working to the Ark project every now and then. About it I have a question for the well informed,: did these helicopters belong to a Squadron ? The aircraft on board the Ark during her last cruise I found what follows: 1. NAS 809 on Buccaneers. 2. NAS 892 on Phantoms. 3. NAS 849 on Fairey Gannets EAW3. 4. ??? on Westland Wessex. 5. NAS 824 on Westland Sea kings. 1. I had been waiting for years for a Decent Gannet AEW 3 in 1/48th , but finally went for the Sword model in 1/72nd, as I saw it and couldn’t resist! That was my first model in 1/72nd after more than 20 years!!! The model looks great and I thought to depict it while landing… …so I purchased the Eduard PE flaps ( I love that system and some times I’ll scratch build it for my Wyvern, which I…left momentarily aside a few years ago!!!). Of course, the fact this set is dedicated to the Revell EAW1 kit wouldn’t have been a problem…untill I heard on this version the wing was shorter!!! My wife, whom I call “Treasure” is always disappointed as she says I don’t listen to her and she’s got to tell me twhat I’ve got to do at least twice! Eduard Staff may have been listening , and that’s probably why I had a doupble copy of theinstruction sheet!!! Anyway this isn’t going to be important, as I’m not going to use most of the set!!! I also purchased the ALLEY CAT decaal sheet dedicated to thie version of the Gannet, as I heard the orignal stencils are so thin, the ay just …get lost in the decalling process. 2. The news that Airfix British Phantom’s will be released in the next few months, together with the high quality standard this glorious Manufacturer has reached in their last products, did the rest! I’ve got it on order. I also ordered Xtradecal dedicated sheet 72268, to have more choice. The Phantom doesn’t say much in the parking configuration, much better to show it ready to launch, maybe with the deck’s heat deflectors open. 3. Perdu’s Matchbox Buccaneer’s thread gave me strength and I bought aRevell reboxing of the thing. If I follow Perdu’s instruction , I can do it!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNIrEYimmXs …sorry, but I couldn’t find the english version!!!! The only problem seems to be the decal sheet: I’ve got the Airfix sheet for 1/48th kit, but 4. Italery Wessex will be chosen to represent the SAR aircraft. About it I have a question for the well informed,: did these helicopters belong to a Squadron ? I can’t identify the crest on the top starboard (…correct…???) side, behind the cockpit. 5. Hannants seems to have only the Airfix kit on stock, which should be a new tooling. Any ideas if there’s some PE or decal suggested for the version belonging to NAS 824 on board Ark Royal in her last cruise? On second thoughts, I’m getting interested in depicting the Ark herself. The model which seems to be the closest one to this configuration of the famous ship seems to be Fujimi 1/700th scale kit. The main question mark for a project like this is: how to develop it? I mean, the first idea started from was a diorama with a Gannet, a Phantom and a Bucc as shown in the picture. This could do, with all aircraft in parking configuration with wings folded. On the other hand, these aircraft could be depicted in a quite effective “ready to take off” pose . • The Buccaneer is quite singular in both cases, ( wings and airbrake folded or nose up , ready for launch).Even showing it on the lift notfully up wouldn’t be bad!!! • The Phantom’s best configuration is with th nose gear extended , ready for launch. • The Gannet is quite singular with folded wings , hook down, open canopy and ladder out, but it’s not bad even with those curious flaps extended. Even a pre-flight configuration could be interesting , with a couple of crews and what seems to be a starter, as seen for Buccaneers too. At the moment I’ve already started cutting the Gannet’s flaps, just to discover the Eduard PEset is wrong for this model. I could still use the folding mechanism struts( if this is the right name for them!!!) and modify the flaps cut off the wings. • The Wessex could be depicted parked with folded rotor or even i 1/144 scale in the background of a Buccaneer or the Phantom ready for launch, as shown in one of the article’s pictures. • The Sea king is the less colorful of the party and is still a question mark. Suggestions are welcomed. I could : 1. build a big base depicting the flight deck for the three aircraft as in the article’s picture; 2. Build a separate base for each model; 3. Build a big base with some sort of …”islands “for each model, something like my F-15, as in the picture below.I like this idea, but room might be a problem. That’s all for now… enough written modelling , for this weekend!!! Hope I’ll soon share some real modelling. In the meantime, any answers to my questions or suggestions are welcomed. Thanks for your patience!!! Ciao Massimo
  4. Royal Navy Signal Flags Eduard 1:350 Quite a few maritime kits these days provide a selection of flags and pennants that are printed on paper. These can look ok, but generally always have a tired well worn look, like they’ve been left in the sun for a few months. Eduard have now countered this look with the release of this pre-painted steel set, which supersedes the etched brass set previously available. The forty five flags and ten pennants are beautifully painted and will look great either as a coded message from a halyard or two or even on a ship dressed overall, although it would have to be modelled for a calm day as, even though the metal is quite thin I doubt you’d be able to replicate a flapping flag too easily. To use, just cut the chosen flag from the sheet and wrap it around your favourite rigging material. Conclusion This is a very nice and easy to use set which would add a dash, or even a lot of colour depending on how many you use. Please note however these flags are based on the 1937 Royal Navy signaling Handbook so for use on ships from that time up until the new, revised handbook was issued during the war, where the flags for P and Q were swapped over, and is where the phrase “Mind your P’s and Q’s” comes from. So, research is your friend when it comes to modelling. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Fairey Firefly F.I - Mission load out I am trying to figure out what would be the likely load-out configuration of a Fairey Firefly F.I on an ASR escort mission in April 1945. On the 12th April 1945 two Fireflys flew escort to a US Navy Mariner searching for a downed Pilot after raids by the Fleet Air Arm on Northern Formosa during Operation Iceberg Oolong. During the Escort mission the two Fireflies engaged with five Ki51s, shot down two each and shared the fifth. One of the two aircraft (DV119/S281) was piloted by S/Lt JP Stott with Lt B Ward as Observer, flying from HMS Indefatigable with 1770 NAS. With two enemy aircraft confirmed destroyed and 3 confirmed shared destroyed (two from earlier in the year) S/Lt Stott became the top scoring Firefly pilot. I am currently building S/Lt Stott’s aircraft (1/48 SH Kit) and would like it as it would have looked that day. It is highly unlikely that I will find a dated photograph of DV119 showing the load out, so I am trying to use some logic to figure out how the aircraft would have been configured. 1770 & 1771 NAS had been involved in the air attacks earlier in the month during Operation Iceberg. My understanding is that they were RP armed and used for Flak suppression during the attacks. I would assume that for the raids on airfield of Northern Formosa (11-13 April) from which Special Attack Squadrons (Kamikaze) were believed to be operating the Fireflys would be RP armed. I know that, even with bad weather, Avengers and Corsairs operated over Formosa on 12th April but I don't know if the Fireflys were part of the attack. Down to my dilemma then. If the Fireflys were either part of the attack or scheduled to be part of the attack on 11th would they have had the RPs fitted? If the Fireflys were RP fitted and the next day you wanted to fly, a probably unplanned, Escort mission, would you have dropped off the RP Rails and blast plates and possibly add long range tanks or would you have left all the RP gubbins there because you might need RP capability later in the day? Any thoughts? I would guess it's down to how long it takes to fit Blast plates and RP rails. Thanks in advance..
  6. Here I present my latest build, an OOB build of a Vanguard Class SSBN using the Bronco kit. The only bit of work needed was the mating of the hull halves. Primed using Halford's grey primer, German tank grey for lower hull and Halford's satin black was used overall. The sub was 'Kleared', decaled and coated with Tamiya satin varnish. Das Boot was masked to leave the deck exposed, with VERY low tac masking over the two decals and painted with Humbrol matt black and the sonar array was glossed with Klear. Five masts were fitted into fin and a couple of Tamiya figures were added to complete build. WIP here: Stuart
  7. This is my 1/72 Fujimi Phantom dating from the 1990s, but built earlier this year at about the time the new Airfix version became available. The fit of parts was quite good and probably would have been regarded as good when it was released. I would have liked to fit the extended nose leg but it didn't seem to be correct given the absence of crew and dropped flaps.
  8. Here is my recently completed Astute Class Submarine using the 1/350 HobbyBoss kit. Pretty straight forward kit that's almost 'toy like'. Went together with no real problems and painted using mainly Halfords Satin Black from a can, kit decals were used and are I based on the earliest boats when I trial. Mounted on usual base and a few figures from Tamiya were added for scale. WiP: Stuart
  9. Hello, dear friends and colleagues! Let me present my yet another model Blackburn Shark Mk.II by Eastern Express. This kit is the repack of the "old school" Frog model. The kit offers wide choice of varieties – with floats, on wheeled chassis, with folded wing or in-flight configuration – and leaves you rather pleasantly impressed. For its time the model seems quite respectable and can be transformed into a perfect replica if you give it a certain effort. As far as I know, this model of Shark aircraft hasn’t got any alternatives nowadays. The main drawbacks are the following: horrible engine which you must change undoubtedly, empty cockpit (though this feature is characteristic for all models of that time) and wrong number of ribs on the wings which can be seen while imitating the sagging of canvas. I managed to deal with the first two problems but the last one was resolved only partially – I didn’t have neither energy nor desire to remake the whole wing. The model has been made out of the box and materials at hand such as plastic sheets, wire of different gauge, fishing line, cotton buds tubes, hand-made sprues. From aftermarket I used only the Вrengun sight for the tail gun. The model was totally rejointed, riveted, remade the engine, added a cockpit interior, detailed the wings and fuselage. Cross-bracings and aerials are made of fishing line, guns – of wire and a drawn cotton buds tube, navigation lights – of drawn colourful party picks. All in all, the building produced positive impression and turned out to be useful experience for me. Colouring – enamel and acrylic paints Revell, Humbrol and Tamiya, lacquers Tamiya. I tried to highlight the sagging of canvas with paints and some graphite chips, so part of ribs and primary wing structures are merely hand-drawn. Accentuation of jointing – Tamiya panel line wash, oil paints. Toning – oil and water-color pencils. So, nothing out of the ordinary. Decals from the kit turned out to be of very high quality in spite of their age. I liked working with them, they are thin, very good to attach and don’t flake while masking. The result is the torpedo bomber 820 Naval Squadron K8471/652 from HMS Courageous air group as in 1937. Pleasant viewing! Thanks for watching!
  10. Hi Everybody! Seasons greetings to All! New Year,New project, first on the Martime Build Forum. I've been modelling for a good while,but this is My first major warship build,and My first intensive use of photo etch,and I would like to share the step-by step triumphs and tribulations in a full build log to show My attempts and welcome constructive remarks on. First step is to constuct a base to work on the model,that will be the eventual core of the display case. Mounting hardware consists of metal pedestals,spacers,bolts and captive nuts (to allow the model to be removed once the decks are fitted):- Base cut to size from 15mm Contiboard,hull and board drilled,and mounting blocks and nuts fitted and hull bolted to base:- Deck beams fitted,and decks test fitted-all good! :- As this will be a fairly lengthy project,I decided to construct a dust-cover 'tent',which will be also used to finalise the size of the final dislay case (cover made over-height as a do not know the finished height of the model):- That's all for now! Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete
  11. USN Ensign Flag Modern and Royal Navy Ensign Flag WWII (Steel) 1:700 Eduard Eduard released a set of WWII-era US Navy ensigns a couple of months ago. Now they havde added a set of modern USN flags and a set of WWII-vintage Royal Navy flags in the same glorious 1:700 scale. On the US Navy fret are two large and six small flags, while on they Royal Navy fret there are four large and five small flags. Each flag is pre-painted and has small tabs to aid attachment. I'm not sure how easily these flags can be manipulated in order to give them a more 3d shape - at least without causing the paint to flake off - but they should still look better than decals. USN Ensign Flag Modern Royal Navy Ensign Flag WWII Review sample courtesy of
  12. Hi, Appreciate that there has been a recent group build for the Sea King however I didn't take part as it's taken me 5 months to get to this stage. I'll admit, I've not got that far however my hope is that I will end up with a large model representing this actual aircraft, which coincidentally, was the last aircraft I flew in back on 21st August 1996. Not a particularly interesting flight .. more of an AFCS ( automatic flying control system) check test flight. She passed and was serviceable for future use. The last I heard .. she is sitting down in HMS Sultan, being used as a training aircraft for future WAFU's The link for this is http://www.planepictures.net/netshow.php?id=1036995 Anyway, I started with the excellent ( and only) 1:48 scale kit that I could find and ask Santa for. The har.5 kit from Hasegawa "Ark Royal" ?? edition because this would require the least of all options to convert to the has.6 version. First job was to source a MAD sponson for the stbd side, which I did from fellow member "WAFU" and sent him the regular sponson from my kit. Next came the purchase of some PE, which I have never really used before and was pondering the purchase of PE tools. In the end and after some discussion with other members, I just bought some quality smooth pliers and snips. This was mainly due to the fact that there was no real requirement for bending lots of PE that I'd purchased. And so I began... I decided to leave the front seats as is and I appreciate that the Westland versions do not have the large seat supports shown here. This was to help support and place the PJ production 1:48 Lynx crew which I will add later ... especially the all important aircrewman and then... ..the most frightening job for me was to take a saw to my model and I carefully cut out the main cargo door, which thankfully I can reuse and attach later. This was nerve racking to say the least but after some hints and tips from other members, I purchased the best quality micro saw I could afford ... best investment ever. Dry fitted almost everything that I could, as I wanted to minimise fit issues which would require sanding and as such , loose detail. I haven't tried re scribing and due to the good quality of this kit, hopefully I won't have to. There was a gap above the main cockpit and fuselage and this was addressed later. This picture shows the hole I cut in the cabin floor, in order to fit the sonar and you can just see the first bit of PE fitted, which is the sea anchor storage, fitted behind the P2's seat. Decided not to fit the PE yaw pedals as I actually preferred the plastic kit parts, however I did fit the pedal surrounds and sanded down the instrument console, ready for the attachment of the self adhesive PE parts. PE broom cupboard bent & attached. This is where the hydraulic actuators and other gubbins for the AFCS are housed, behind the P1's seat. The first aid kit, flare pistol and piddle tube ( back up intercom !!?? ) was also attached to this cupboard. Finally , I was ready to start some scratch building for the back of this aircraft as the kit is absolutely bare ... which is a shame. The rear crew seats were made using bits n bobs of plastic, copper wire and cocktail sticks. I cannot take credit for this idea, it was borrowed from the excellent thread below http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234976450-sea-king-crew-seat-detaing-revell-72nd-scale-kit/ The seats I was happy with .. the observers / aircrewmans stations .. eh not so much !.... so I started again .. from scratch. Whilst I was trying to figure out the rear consoles, I decided to fit some soundproofing and cabin flooring. For this I simply used some cut up plastic sheet, cut up jiffy bags and some of the plastic straps that held the polystyrene packaging on my new fridge freezer ... another expense I could have done without. Waste not... want not !! Rear consoles v2 ... made using some of the polystyrene packaging, cut to shape and faced with some plastic card. I also use the jiffy bag to make the cover that surrounded the dipping sonar. This was maily due to the fact , that even with the rear cabin door open, viewing access is minimal through said door and cabin/cockpit windows. As you can see, the dimensions of the consoles are much better second time around. I also took the opportunity to fit soundproofing to the cabin ceiling. .... and after painting and applying the cut up cockpit decals from OOB, I ended up with this. I elected to keep the front personnel door closed, so I simply used some polystyrene block to make the fwd equipment rack and also a representation of the MS10 liferaft.. which you can just see through the cockpit. View from the other side Actually quite liked the self adhesive PE for the cockpit .. but it did require a lit bit of help to stick ie superglue Back to the rear cabin area and shown is my first attempt at rear cargo seats. These have since been removed and v2 fitted. I used the luminous "hamma bead" method to fashion the radar screen. Melt the beads using a warm iron and cut to shape. This worked quite well and when exposed to strong light and viewed in darkened conditions you get the following effect. Excuse the poor quality photo .. but you get the idea This was the dirtied effect I was looking for and so far so good. It was then time to take possession of the following bespoke decals sourced from Roger at www.whirlybirdmodels.com Fantastic and just what I wanted. This guy is a genius and we spent several months conversing by email and phone to get the above just right. These are unique to my model and I am over the moon... but lots to do so they have been safely packed away for now The fit of this kit is the best I've come across yet and I finally joined the two halves and dry fitted the various access panels. The gap above the cockpit and glass were filled with platic card and some detail added using wire. The hull is a snug fit and fits perfectly despite what the picture above suggests. I am not going to glue the boat hull section until I've attached the various antenna and decided what I'm going to fit inside the sonar well. I know it will be the correct dipping sonar but I am thinking of scratch building the full body, which I can remove to display, if so required. So this is where I'm at to date. This has taken me 5 months so far, mainly due to work commitments. I could not commit to the time scales of the group build but the fantastic work of all contributors was borrowed for incorporation into my model. This is going to take me several more months but hopefully the result will be be worth it. By posting on this WIP forum, it should ensure that I don't forget about it and do bits n bobs when I can. Thanks for looking in... best wishes
  13. In the mid 1990s, Colourcoats was established as the first model paint brand offering shades specifically for modellers of Royal Navy subjects, based upon the most comprehensive information available at the time. In recent years, the delving of some individual enthusiasts into primary source documents in various National Archives made it clear that there were conflicts, anomalies and some straight contradictions between the widely held wisdom on the matter and what was actually written down in black and white and communicated to the fleet through the official channels at the time. For the past two years we have been working with these individuals by bringing us all together to pool our resources; each having discovered separate, isolated pieces of the larger jigsaw puzzle. Combining this with industry expertise sought and willingly given by several recognised experts on paint chemistry, we have been able to determine which anomalies are the result of incorrect assumptions and which were in fact correct identification of the correct paint, but that the old oil paint samples have significantly colour-shifted in the many decades since they were first made. Regular customers of Colourcoats' Royal Navy products may have already noted the migration in our webstore now started. The entire RNxx range is now discontinued and will not be remanufactured, however they will remain available until existing inventories are depleted. An entirely new range coded NARNxx is to replace our Royal Navy offering. Initially this will accommodate the 1936-1950ish era, but spacing has been left in the numbering to migrate the earlier shades in due course. Colours which are simply being renumbered without a shade change are: RN28 becomes NARN20 RN01 becomes NARN23 RN02 becomes NARN24 RN18 becomes NARN25 RN04 becomes NARN28 RN07 becomes NARN33 RN09 becomes NARN39 RN19 becomes NARN42 RN24 becomes NARN44 RN27 becomes NARN45 RN26 becomes NARN46 All other NARNxx colours are new products, whether altered slightly or significantly from the similarly labelled product from the out-going RNxx range. Our new range is as follows, organised vertically by appropriate time period and horizontally by camouflage tone. This organisation should assist the consumer (along with our research papers) to quickly spot and exercise caution over colour scheme references which demonstrate a fundamental lack of understanding by "cross breeding" paint ranges. Products NARN20 and NARN21 are offered in parallel as alternatives to each other, NARN20 being a 13%RF version of Home Fleet Grey with NARN21 offering a 10%RF version. Similarly, as the greens used in the 1943 "B" series were specified in quantity but not in type, we offer NARN33 as B.5 or B15, and an alternative NARN35 as B15 with a greener caste. It can be seen from the above that G10 replaced bother M.S.2 and 507A, whilst B30 replaced both M.S.4 and B.6 and B55 replaced both Western Approaches Blue and Western Approaches Green. Lastly, B20 replaced G20 from mid 1944 (with a brief overlap). These are in manufacture at time of writing, and will be on sale within 4 to 6 weeks. The Flotta Green and Brown will be a little later, but not too much, and we may add PB.10 also now that more kits of Royal Navy submarines are beginning to appear on the market.
  14. I can't find any acrylic spray cans for extra dark sea grey, is slate grey a suitable equivalent?
  15. Evening all, Here's my attempt at the relatively new Airfix Phantom FG.1 1:72 kit- by far the most enjoyable kit I have ever had the pleasure to build! Combining superb surface detail with a pleasurable building process and a unique subject, the Airfix kit is certainly one of the finest new-tooled kits that they have produced so far (in my opinion). Enough with the superlatives- on with the build! Kit: Airfix McDonnell Douglas Phantom FG.1 Paints: Vallejo "Model Air" (a variety; mainly black primer, a custom mix for the DSG, white, red) Weathering: Ultimate Weathering Wash: Dark Dirt and some brown chalk pastels (I found these recently and thought it might be worth trying them out) Time for some pictures: Thanks for having a look Best wishes, Sam
  16. All fingers legs arms and toes crossed here that this coming week brings this particular model subject much closer to reality; subject to wind and tide, we should see a Royal Navy Aircraft Carrier back at sea for the first time in many years, ready for the first F-35B to land on later next year. These markings for 809 Sqn in HMS QUEEN ELIZABETH and HMS PRINCE OF WALES are largely from my own imagination and courtesy of my inkjet printer, but perhaps not that far from the truth. This is Fujimi's delightful 1/72 F-35B kit, with a little hacking about from me (e.g. the rather obvious auxiliary air inlet is missing on the kit) and my own decals. I haven't fitted any weapons in the open bays yet - but some scratch built Meteors and SPEAR 3s are on the workbench! For those who doubt that colour can ever be applied to these aircraft, check out the USN variants at sea now! And as a comparison, here she is alongside Italeri/Revell's old X-35B kit Edit - here is a link to my second build scheme and an update of this one post FoC Flying Trials: 2018 Updates FLY (ROYAL) NAVY ! FredT
  17. Hello, colleagues! I'd like to present another model from the FROG/NOVO contest - the british naval fighter McDonnell Douglas Phantom FG.1. It is the repack of the old FROG model F262 by Industrial Group "Mir" (Minsk). As usual I built this model in "Out of the box" nomination, so no modifications to the original kit were allowed. The only modification allowed to me by the contest administration was the extension of the nose landing gear. This gives the model more "british" look. The model is of poor quality and was difficult to build. According to the rules of the contest I had to stay within the limits of the kit - rised panel lines, geometry inaccuracies and so on. So, the result is before you. It is the naval fighter XT872 005/R, Naval Air Squadron 892, Royal Navy, HMS Ark Royal, 1973. Thanks for looking!
  18. A second build thread as I like to switch between projects every now and then. This one I suspect is going to take a while though. The Airfix 1/600 HMS Belfast was the first ship model I ever built so returning to the beautiful Royal Navy light cruisers is a bit nostalgic. After seeing Steven Allen and Andrewas wonderful takes on these ships I wanted to try my hands on these myself. The (relatively) cheap and easy route would be to simply build Trumpeters Belfast kit. But comparing the Belfast to the Fiji and Sheffield, I always felt that the lines on the Belfast wasn't as sleek as the other ships. Thus I recently picked up the Iron Shipwirghts kit. In many ways this will be new territory for me: It is my first resin ship kit and the first kit from Iron Shipwrights. It is also a fairly old and slightly simplified, compared to the highly detailed CAD designed resin kits being created these days. With this in mind I knew from the beginning that this would be a lot more work than a normal injection moulded kit, and that it would involve a lot of scratch building and use of aftermarket parts. Upon arrival I was a bit disappointed by the casting quality though. Some critical parts were completely useless and beyond repair, while others, like the ship props and the Walrus seaplane were missing completely. I wasn't sure if this was a packing error or if the Ebay seller wasn't being completely honest. Either way, I decided to contact Jon from Iron Shipwrights and he has kindly offered to replace the missing parts free of charge. Their casting may not always be perfect, but the customer service certainly is! Still: When working with resin a lot of filling and sanding is probably unavoidable! I did some january sales shopping and this week my purchases began to arrive. The shopping list look like this: WEM HMS Sheffield PE set Master Oerlikon mounts Master Brass masts and yardarms North Star Models 4" guns North Star Models winches North Star Models Searchlights North Star Models HACS North Star Models portholes North Star Models quad Pompoms. 6" guns, some boats and possibly torpedo launchers will probably be 3d print, though I am still unsure exactly what route to go with these. Other than that I will be using a bunch of spare parts from my previous Royal Navy builds. Some critical parts are still missing though, like the radar lantern (inclding platform supports), main battery directors and replacement bollards and fairleads. It seems a bit excessive to purchase the Belfast kit and WEM upgrade set (which definitely contain suitable replacements), but I am hoping that over time it might be possible to obtain some of these things from people who might have spares from their own Belfast builds.
  19. This is my build of HMS Belfast as she was at the sinking of the Scharnhorst in December 1943, she sits in my collection alongside my Sheffield and Jamaica at the same engagement, but more of that in a bit... I'm relauctant to give Trumpeter too much credit for this one, by the time I'd fixed all the issues and errors, I think I'd have been better off scratch building this one. As usual for me, I made great use of aftermarket - Northstar, L'Arsenal, White Ensign and 3D printed, along with a fair amount of scratch work. Paint is all Colourcoats. And with the rest of the fleet: Front to back - Jamaica/Belfast/Sheffield Left to Right - Jamaica/Belfast/Sheffield Andrew
  20. Although I've already got one entry into this Group Build, with Peter Hall releasing the etched set for HMS Ariadne I couldn't resist entering my second ship. Ariadne is in an original but very battered Matchbox PK 61 box. I only bought Ariadne quite recently as my interest in the class had been piqued after reading an article on the class. Ariadne will benefit from Peter Hall’s Atlantic Models new etched set. I have Warship Profile no. 38 as primary reference plus whatever references I have in my library or has already been gleaned from the web. Improvements will generally follow what is in the etched set although she may need some additional work depending on when exactly I’m going to depict her. A colour schemes has yet to be decided. Other details to be added could include 3d printed light AA if needed plus crew figures, these might etched or 3d printed also. By all rights she should be belting along as the class were renowned for the high top speed. I might add some extra hull below the waterline to depict her heel as she turns. I will also need to add some flags. These might be hand painted or use Mike McCabe’s excellent Starling Models flags.
  21. Hi all, Would be grateful if anyone could help with best interior colours for a Royal Navy Wessex - I know the soundproofng was 'apple green' but just not sure about the main cabin/seats/cockpit, cushions etc. Many thanks in advance! Dermot
  22. Somewhere in the South Atlantic May 1982... This is my 1/350 build of three of the ships in the RNs Falklands task force, there are two scratch builds, and one minor conversion, plus huge amounts of detail on all three. I don't want to think about the amount of time I've spent over the past 5 1/2 years... Starting with the complete scene: From left to right: HMS Broadsword, HMS Hermes and HMS Yarmouth HMS Hermes and Yarmouth are both scratch built from plans Weathering on both was closely based on photos from the time to get the weather worn look of two of the oldest ships in the fleet. Many of the details are from WEM and Atlantic Models etched brass sets, but I also learnt to etch at home for unique pieces including H's mast, crane, davits and some antenna. Around 230 figures are spre​ad across the 3 ships, mostly on the flight deck HMS Broadsword was a conversion of the OOP WEM HMS Brilliant kit, the main change being the funnel, plus a wealth of detailing. the seascape is modelling clay plus acrylic medium and teased out cotton wool for the foam and spray. The base was lined with plasticard to get a mid-ocean swell adding a bit more interest and action Finally for this post a couple of overhead shots, Broadsword is approaching to start taking on fuel from Hermes' starboard quarter, Yarmouth steaming past on the port-side. Both escorts are really a bit close, but the base is the largest I could fit in my cabinets (to the millimetre) and the navy have been known to bend ships every so often so it's not impossible. Next up some detail shots. If anyone has missed the WiP and would like to see the history on this one, here's the thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234927178-operation-corporate-carrier-battlegroup-1350 Andrew
  23. Hi, does anyone know of some decent 1/48 figures of RN deck crew to go along with a Wyvern and/or a Sea Fury? I've only been able to find much more modern personnel figures and their equipment looks quite different. Any mention of possible other matching deck equipment would be appreciated as well. I want to create a small diorama for those aircraft, mostly for size comparison and nicer representation, nothing too fancy, just a little deck scenery.
  24. Looking at Thunder and Lightning http://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/phantom/history.php was there any talk of any other front line Royal Navy Phantom squadrons apart from 892 ? TIA Robert
  25. It's been a while, but I've finally finished a ship! This is a scratch build of HMS Jamaica that I kicked off about 2 1/2 years ago, but then stalled while I collected a few accessories and brass sets. My aim was to model her configuration in December 1943 during the Battle of NorthCape. Here's the rest of the photos: Closeups And a couple of shots alongside my HMS Sheffield, also at both North Cape nad Berents Sea battles: I'll try to be a bit quicker off the mark with HMSs Belfast, DoY and Norfolk... Andrew
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