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Found 1,392 results

  1. theplasticsurgeon

    Tim's Shamrock Special B17F

    Joining you with this Revell B-17F kit. Here are the parts still in bags. Instructions and decals. I'll be building this option Shamrock Special As can be seen, I've copied the boxtop flap idea from my B-17G colleagues.
  2. VMA131Marine

    Revell 2019 releases

    As culled from the Hannants future release list. I took screen shots before anybody could decide this was a mistake:
  3. Hallo everybody, I started a new project, Eurofighter Typhoon with a lovely tail art. I used Revell's Tiger Day version, decals from ModelMaker and PE set from Eduard. So far I find the kit not as precise in fitting like many modern kits. Well, I don't know better kit in this scale anyway and Tiger was a bargain! K.
  4. Hi Guys, this is my first attempt at a Work in Progress. I thought would give it a shot not because I have anything to offer by way of modelling skills, but hopefully some of you more experienced builders may be able to give me some tips along the way. This is not the scale I normally build in I prefer 1/72, I always feel that when things go wrong in this scale the fault tends to be magnified. So this is the beast I intend building. I have acquired. a fondness for jets with recent builds and picked this one up at a bargain price at my local Hobbycraft. I had already made a start before I decided to do a Work in Progress. I normally like to display my aircraft models in flight but this one will sit on its wheels for a couple of reasons one being its too big to display in flight, and the other being I don't have a suitable pilot to put in it. So a little more detail was required with cockpit and this is where we at. Straight out of the box with the addition of some Tamiya tape seat belts. Some preparation paint work on the fuselage halves. Now came the fun bit attaching the completed cockpit to the fuselage halve. Well its in but it wasn't pretty, I initially tried to fit it to the other side but there was no way it was going to sit in there with the back of the tub lined up at the back, and the console lined up at the front. So out it came with a lot of cussing and swearing, this was not a good start. I looked at Lord Riot's build thread and found that he and other modelers had encountered the same problem, I believe it was because the base that the tub sits on is bent. Any it became a step by step gluing process and with a lot of patience it is in! Now all that I have to do is glue the two sides together, after quite a lot of test fitting I came to the conclusion that this was not going to be straight forward, very little lined up and the plastic in some places was quite flimsy. So I decide a little assistance would be necessary. In this and the previous image you can see that I have added some additional tabs to try and give it some structural stability. Well the fuselage halves are together and I can already see that there is going to be quite a lot of filling and sanding in my future, it took a long time to get them anything like lined up and without the additional support I put in I think it would have been a lot worse. Now, the ironic thing is I started this thread so I could throw out questions like is it tail sitter? and guess what i forgot to put any weight in the nose at all so it might just end up in flight after all! Watch this space .
  5. Hello The warship virus is back and i have dusted my naval projects. While my Hood is still on hold, i have made progress on another project.I have started building Revells Schlachtschiff Bismarck a while ago and made also a start on the Tirpitz, also from Revell. Like so often building has started quite spontaneous and i think its now time to present them. Both are quite new kits and well detailed, to enhence this, i am using the Eduard BiG Ed set, a wooden deck from Pontos and turned metal barrels from RB and Master, i am not sure if i add more stuff. Depends on my budged. Building warships is complex so i am progressing on Bismarck first. Some pictures contain also parts from her sister ship. Both kits have some fit problems but nothing some putty and sanding can t cure. The first pics showing the hull of Tirpitz, with some sanding and filling. I am still fighting with with the different shape of her bow. Some fit problems and a new keel made from putty. I had started to build parts of the super structures. Quite different. Tirpitz on top. Some images of the pe parts, wooden deck and gun barrels Now on to Bismarck. The paint work on her hull is done but could need some touch ups. The decals for the water pass, and camo stripes were not used. Its more easy to match the the color of the baltic scheme stripes in her super structure. The poster from the Kagero books are a good back up for photos and a very helpful reference. It has also some flaws too. The Pontos deck is on, the red stripes are painted, the aft one is too small. Decals will do the rest of this detail. That was the point of the re start of the build. The main modelling time in the last 10 days were adding, folding and glueing on photo etched parts and removing and sanding away plastic details. But that is only the beginning. The bow. Still lots of details are missing here. The forecastle in the area of ht e first break water, the louvers got details. The barbette from turret "B" or Bruno got platforms around. Not every handrail of these platforms made it onto the model... Some midship details. Eduard has supplied the modeller with only some part of the steel decks before the catapult, Hope it looks good under the paint. I have also started to add watertight doors and the covers for the portholes. Very fiddly ! The roof of the aircraft hangar. Many of her boats were stowed here. The kit part before ...and after cutting and sanding every detail away and replacing them with pe parts. The hangar door was glued on after the pe parts were added on the roof top now i have a seam ( and also a damage ) And details around turret Caesar The turrets of the main guns have seen some work as well, more on those later. Thanks for looking Bernd
  6. Hi all, I've been here a few weeks now and though it was about time I showed you what I'm up to. I've very fond memories of watching Star Trek (TOS) as a kid in the 80's with my dad and my brother and it's one of the few things that has really stuck with me through changing times. The Enterprise itself I find mesmerising, it's graceful and each part of the ship has a clear purpose, a design classic and I love it. My favourite itteration has to be the refit, which I hope to build at some point in the future So, I got in to modelling because I wanted a decent model Enterprise, I've had a few very small die-cast models but they are always lacking something. I found the Revell kit online and decided that I'd build my own, LED lights and all. Now I've well and truly got the modelling bug, I've bought the Star Trek Starship Voyager for my next model, I've built a small Star Destroyer and plan to build models from Battlestar and other Star Trek models Here's some photos that I took while building my Enterprise, I wasnt originally planning on posting them online but then I found this place, so here it goes! 1. What a great start, I ruined my first model! I wanted to light my model with LEDs, so it had to be light-proofed. So the insides of the model had a coat of adhesion promoter, followed by black, then a silver or while coat would be painted to make it reflective. I was watching lots of Boyd's Trekworks Youtube videos for info and he used a heat gun on a gentle heat to aid the drying process.... I'll never do that again, my model melted You can see the plastic deformation from the heat in this image. It also shows my initial plan for lighting, which was to cover all windows with grease-proof paper, which diffuses the light, then placing LED's around the ship to light them up. 2. Saucer section interior is about ready So after buys a replacement model I started again, with a few important lessons learned This image shows the insides of the saucer section, painted and with the windows covered. I used 'Revell Contacta Liquid Special' to glue the clear windows in place, and to glue the greese-proof paper in place. The secondary hull, again with the inside prepared for lighting, it's had a black coat followed by a light coat to refelct the light. By this time I'd also started experimenting with LEDs, the breadboard in this photo had a 555 Timer chip and a 4017 Decade counter, they'll be used for the rotating lights of the Warp Nacells and the blinking navigation lights. 4.Let there be light! Not sure of the best positioning and arrangement of LEDs I just dove in with something that looked like it would give good coverage. I know some people use fewer but brighter LEDs, and some use LED tape/strips, which I might look at using in the future. Each LED has a resistor attached, and they're all in parallel, so if one should fail the others will continue to work. 5. Glue. After lighting the secondary hull in a similar way I was ready to glue a few parts together. Which I was pretty worried about as I considered it opportunity to ruin yet another model. I used Revel Contacta Professional glue and found my fears were unfounded, thankfully 6. Circuits To light this model I would need to build some circuits to handle the navigation lights and the rotating buzzard collector effects. So I bought the relevant gear from Maplin (I now use RS instead) and designed a few circuits in Pad2Pad, which is excellent free circuit design software. The first completed circuit was for the navigation lights, I was initially planning to put it inside the model but then decided I would fit it in the stand instead. 7. Warp Nacell Test #1 You saw my breadboard with a few components in an earlier photo. This is basically how the Buzzard Collector effect works on my model, The red, orange and green LEDs are aranged in a circle and give the impression of rotation. 8.Warp Nacell Circuit fitting After designing my Warp Nacell circuit in Pad2Pad, I printed it off, cut it out and placed it in it's intended final position to make sure it would fit. The circular plastic piece has holes drilled in it to receive the LEDs, 12 of them (for a single Nacell). 9. Assembled Warp Nacell Board After building the warp nacell board I fit it in place. Now you can also see how the LEDs sit. It's a pretty tight space so I was pleased that everything went in with no problems In the video below, the middle light isnt connected to any power, it will eventually be 'always-on' to provide a steady red glow. The camera doesnt really do the below any justice. 10. Closed up my first Warp Necell - and made my second big mistake It's amazing isnt it that you can do something, then the instant you finish you realise you've done it wrong. I guess it's not really that big a deal, the model isn't completely accurate anyway and I'd already decided that I would'nt worry about that this time. But this mistake was easily avoidably, yet at the crutial point I... put the wrong circuit in the wrong nacell, so the buzzard collectors now spin in the wrong direction. Only a Trek fan would notice, but it's annoying all the same. Still, after much grumpiness I think I can live with it. 11. Connecting the Pylons and the Seconday Hull. I'd already glued the warp nacells to the support pylons and let those set, I'd also done some work on removing the seams on all the parts glued so far. Now it was time to connect the wiring up and glue them to the secondary hull. With the wiring connected and the pylons glued on to the secondary hull, it looked like the area would be under a fair bit of stress, so I stuck a clamp in place to hold things together while they set. 12. Windows, I hate Windows I bought some masking fluid so that I could mask the windows, but found it to be far to imprecise and the results (of tests I did on my melted saucer section) were pretty messy. So after getting some advice right here on Britmodeller (thanks guys, you know who you are) I settled on masking the windows with masking tape. I used a scalpal to cut small rectangles working on one at a time. It took ages. I have used the masking fluid on a few of the larger clear pieces, but I'm still not impressed with the result, maybe I just need more practice with it! 13. All Masked, Time for the Primer With all the clear parts masked I bought myself a 'lazy suzan' and gave the entire ship a coat of Hycote Adhesion Promoter and then a nice coat of Hycote grey primer. No way was I going anywhere near this thing with a heat gun The wires you see here will eventually be fed through the stand in to the base. I found the Hycote cans give excellent fast coverage, pretty cheep too. 14. Base Color With the primer dry it was time to start mixing colours (as per the model instructions) and giving it some proper color. I used a 'Sparmax Arism Mini' Airbrush to spray the model, with Revel Aqua Color paints. I found that thinning the paint 2-parts paint to 1-part thinner worked pretty well. I'd aslo sprayed the deflector dish, I love that copper colour and started giving the warp nacell and impulse engines some colour. I was having trouble cutting the masking tape perfectly to cover the inside of the impulse engines, so decided to try the masking fluid. The result was not great but I think It'll look fine if I touch it up with a brush. So, that's my model so far. It's the first model I've ever build and while I've found it quite challenging I've really enjoyed it and plan to do many more in the future. I'll post more photos and videos as I make more progress. And thanks to everyone here for accepting me in to the site and giving me some great tips! Cheers
  7. SMS Dresden and Emden Revell 1/350 During the FIRST WORLD WAR - two of the Imperial German Navy's "light cruisers", SMS Dresden and SMS Emden waged a trade war against British ships far from home. The Dresden initially operated off the East Coast of South America and the Emden in the Indian Ocean. In order to avoid British Warships the Dresden made its way into the Pacific to join the German East Asia Squadron. In the first naval battle of the First World War, a Royal Navy Squadron was able to narrowly avoid defeat in an action in which two British Warships were sunk. The subsequent attack on Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands failed however and all the German ships except the Dresden were lost. Crippled the Dresden hid in bays around the South of Chile until 14 March 1915 when she was discovered by three British warships and fired upon. The Captain decided to scuttle his ship. The Emden however, cleverly avoided enemy contact and was thus able to destroy the Oil Storage Unit at Madras. During later actions, two small British cruisers and many merchant ships also fell victim to the Emden. The Emden was however, rendered unfit for action whilst under fire from the Australian cruiser Sydney on its way to the Coco Islands (early in November 1914). The captain was forced to run his ship aground in order to prevent her sinking. Later as a special commendation, all surviving crew members were permitted to bear the additional title "Emden". The model Originally released on their own, the SMS Emden in 1994 and the Dresden in 1996, both were well regarded kits at the time. Since their original release they have been re-popped a couple of times, but this is the first time that they have been released together in a kind of box set. Inside the deep end opening and rather feeble box you find two poly bags each with a complete kit inside. There is no other protection for the parts but they don’t seem to have suffered any damage, just a few parts have come adrift from the sprues. The 4 sprues, two hull halves and separate main deck part of rather odd greeny grey styrene appear to have been well moulded, with no sign of flash, but with quite a few moulding, (overrun), pips on the smaller parts. Detail is nicely done with some very fine engraved plate lines and open portholes, which could need some backing to avoid see through issues. The wooden decks though are a little disappointing in that they seem way out of scale, with the grain looking something more akin to the wooden dashboards you find in some cars, so probably best to get a nice real wood deck from the likes of Artwox or Pontos. The rest of the parts look good and even the gun barrels are nice and slim, but you could always change them for brass items should you wish. Apart from the lower rear hull around the props there isn’t any discernible difference between the kits, so if you were to waterline the hulls, the parts used would be exactly the same. If displaying them in full hull configuration then you would notice that the Dresden has four screws whilst the Emden only has two. With that fact now known the build described below will be for the Dresden, but can easily be used to describe the Emden build with the only difference being the colour scheme. The build begins with the fitting of the longitudinal bulkheads onto the main deck structures foreward and amidships along with the addition of the capstans, bollards and deckhouse vents. The bridge consists of two halves, which when joined together are fitted to the single piece bridge wing section and topped off with the roof and binnacle. Each of the gun turrets are also in two halves, with the gun barrel incorporated into one half and just need joining together to complete. Each of the three funnels are made up of port and starboard parts along with a separate funnel cap. The gun turrets are then mounted onto their main deck positions and held in place with a small washer from beneath. The same goes for the single piece unshielded guns. With the guns in place the bridge is now fitted. Before the main deck is attached to the hull two more open guns are fitted to separate decks parts in their casements beneath the main deck. The hull is then fitted with the bilge keels and the two propeller shaft panels, (as mentioned above, the only area that is different between the two ships), along with the propeller shafts, propellers, shaft supports and single rudder. With the main deck and hull structure assembled it’s on to the fitting out stage. Starting at the bow the ensign staff is attached, followed by the two anchors, breakwater, boat booms, complete with Jacobs’s ladders, casement hinged doors, which can be posed either open or closed up with the judicious use of a sharp knife, and finally the cleat boards for the halliards. The funnel assemblies are then glued into position and the amidships raised gangway attached to the port side of the funnels. An additional binnacle is fitted aft near to the emergency steering position and two vents are fitted amidships. The eight ships cutters and single steam pinnace, (with separate funnel/boiler section), are now shipped along with their respective davits and cradles, three boats each side amidships and one each side aft on the quarterdeck. Revell have kindly provided an accommodation ladder for those that will waterline the model and incorporate it into a diorama. There is another binnacle in a tub which sits on top of a four legged tower just aft of the rear funnel and the two ships wheels are joined together and mounted at the emergency steering position. The final section of the build is the construction of the two ships masts. The foremast is fitted with a platform on its foreward face about a third of the way up. This platform is then fitted with two searchlights. The main mast is of similar construction, but has a second platform half way between the searchlights and the deck. Each mast is stepped in position and the two ladders fitted between the main platforms and the deck. Each model is provided with two display stands, one of which is fitted with a plaque plate onto which the decal with the ships name is attached. There are a pair of very well drawn and clearly illustrated rigging plans provided, but I wouldn’t recommend using the black thread that Revel include in the kit, you really need something a lot finer and less furry. Decals The small decals sheet has the name of each ship to be fitted to the plaque plate along with the crests for bow and stern. There are some decal windows, presumably for the bridge and the ships name boards are also provided. The Dresden is also provided with one large ensign, whilst the Emden has one large and one battle ensign. The decals are nicely printed, with very little visible carrier film and in good register. Conclusion Nothing seems to have changed over the intervening years since these kits were first released and that includes the nice clean moulding. They are still very nice looking kits to build and should build up into good looking display models. There are a number of aftermarket etched sets and wooden decks should you really want to go to town on them and i think they deserve it. It would be great to see them displayed together in their different colour schemes. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  8. Rob G

    Half scale Tomcats by 2.

    Hello all. I have a number of Grumman products in the stash and had originally decided to enter this GB with a 1/72 Hasegawa F-14 in Iranian colours. However, being a bit thick, I sold that kit a few months ago. It was replaced in a bit of a hurry by Revell's 1/144 A model in the VX-4 Black Bunny boxing, which I will build here as a line bird in classic grey and white. The black plastic will save me a coat of paint for black basing... In addition, I'll be making an attempt at the D 'Super Tomcat' version of the kit, probably the aircraft with the low viz shark mouth on it. A story attaches to this - I was looking after a friend's model shop earlier in the week and things were quiet. Idle hands in a hobby shop... Hmm... There was a D on the shelf, and all the tools I could need; what else could be the result? Of course, as soon as I clipped the first bits off the sprue and started fitting them together the door opened and it got busy, but I now own another small Tomcat, (yes, I paid for it) so I'll build both of them here. No photos yet (haven't added them to my Flickr account), but I'll get them up and on show ASAP. Being simple kits I should be able to complete them in the allotted time...
  9. This will be my build of 'Outhouse Mouse' a B-17G that survived the war and was returned to the USA using the Revell 1/72 G kit: I know the decal instructions state both 1/72 and 1/48 its a typo the decals are at 1/72...phew I won't be using any aftermarket stuff but will try and add some additional detail from scratch. Haven't built a heavy for donkey's years so should be interesting. Cheers, Mark.
  10. Finished about 30mins ago, so please don't touch the paintwork yet, OK ? Not the best fitting or most detailed kit, but as a car it's utterly jaw-dropping !. Please feel free as ever to ask any questions, make any comments or add any criticism. Next car build will probably be another RoG kit, either a 599 or a McLaren. AFN Ian.
  11. neil5208

    B17E Old Maid ser 41-2409

    My build will be of Old Maid, one of the B17E's repainted in the Haywain Air Depot camouflage scheme after the attack on Pearl Harbour, I will be using the Revell B17F kit. I know that the aircraft would have had the Sperry lower turret fitted but some of the images that are available show the aircraft was retro fitted with the later F model ball turret and the kit has the earlier style nose glass with single mg mount so show be fairly accurate. I recieved the kit as a birthday present and made a start before I knew about the GB but only did a few parts before joining. IMGA0342 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0341 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0340 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0339 by neil Connor, on Flickr Now the GB has started I can get stuck in
  12. Hi all, Here's my place holder for the GB. I'll be doing the Matchbox or Revell 1/72 Supermarine Stranraer. As I mentioned previously I've got both versions......well nearly, so as they say 'pick the bones out of that!' which is what I'll have to do!: and to quote Wikipedia: "The Supermarine Stranraer was a 1930s flying boat designed and built by the British Supermarine Aviation Works company principally for the Royal Air Force. It entered operations in 1937 and many were in service at the outbreak of the Second World War undertaking anti-submarine and convoy escort patrols." The only work completed so far is to replicate (vac form) the lower wings from one kit (Revell) to enable me to build the second (Matchbox) kit: So the question is will I do one or two examples of the 'whistling Sh!£house' Cheers, Mark.
  13. I wasn't going to post this one up until I started it properly, but here goes anyway. At the moment, I'm just doing the spray painting bits while the weather allows. The build will be later in the year, but with my spray booth in the garage I have to do the spraying while it's warm and dry enough. So first job is to decide on the colour. The instructions are for the car in beige, but I wanted to try another of the factory colours. Unfortunately, the choice of colours from Trabant demonstrate the wow factor you would expect from the Eastern Bloc - as well as beige the choice is Invalid Carriage Blue, Dirty Off White, Pale Grey, Baby Sick, and two shades of green, one of which resembles the glowing stick of uranium from the Simpson's opening and one of which resembles dying grass. I decided to go with the grey as I think it might suit the car. The kit is Revell's Trabant Universal. On first glance, and from what I've read, it looks a nicely detailed kit with lots of parts... and also lots of steps to the instructions (46!). The body looks pretty nice apart from some sink marks front and rear on each side so those have been filled, and the mould lines are hidden behind what will be a trim line from front to rear with only small lines on the front of the car. The door lines are also quite shallow so I scribed them too. There's quite a lot of bits which are body colour, which means quite a bit of spraying with this one. I'll only put up the chassis and the body for the spraying, the rest would just be repetitive. The pic below shows it very early on, and I've put the roof panel, bonnet and boot in place to give an idea of how it will look. This pic is after the scribing and the first attempt at filling the sink marks, the ones at the front needing quite a bit of filling. The spoon in the foreground shows what I hope to be the final colour - this one is Revell's USAF Light Grey, which being a matt paint will need a couple of goes with the clear where there are decals. As usual, the primer showed that this wasn't the best filling job, so all the sink marks needed filling and sanding again before it got another coat of primer. And here we are with the body finally complete and wearing it's coat of primer. Meanwhile, the chassis paint was running in parallel to the body. This one is mostly in matt black and I managed to get it painted relatively easily. However, the rear wheel arches should have the finish in body colour, so I had to break out the foil and the masking tape in preparation for colour coating them. Two weeks later, after adding the colour coat (directly over the black), I added the clear coat and then removed the masking. I have to say that I am quite pleased with the result. There is some detailing required to parts of this (principally the handbrake cable), but that will come when I reach that stage of the build. And then my paint woes hit. First of all, that can of spray paint which was fine for the chassis wheel arches decided to lose pressure two weeks later. And the other can I had ran out very quickly only doing a few larger parts and a mist coat and a half on the body before running out. So this is where it is now: So I'm out of spray paint and have a very unfinished car. Fortunately, I've just got myself a new, but cheap, airbrush which I was only planning on using at first on areas where it wouldn't be that visible. Having managed to extract about 20ml from the low pressure can I guess I will have to try with that. Would I be right in thinking that the paint from a spray can will go straight through the airbrush ok without thinning? And has anyone any experience of spraying with Revell acrylic paints from the tub if I need to go down that route? Would I be better off just getting another spray can if so required?
  14. I have managed to find the original thread that I had started for this build over in the WIP section, and I am ashamed to say that this has been sitting around the bench since October 2016. During that time it has suffered some minor damage - losing the tail from one of the wingtip launch rails, so that will need a bit of repair work. Here's a link to the build progress I had made. This is how things have stood over the past two years. by John L, on Flickr I made a bit of a restart last night by painting the undercarriage bays, inner areas of the doors, legs and wheels. by John L, on Flickr This shouldn't take too long to complete, then I can get started on the 1/144 Eurofighter.
  15. I was wanting to try some 3D weathering and opted to try Vallejo's Chipping Medium as the method. The subject is a 1/48 scale 1967 tool P47 Razorback from Revell. Although, this build was really just something of a 'test-bed' for my weathering self-tuition. I liked the end result and thought I'd share it with the forum.
  16. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qHVqy5e3sPn6poHV9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/GWK1qHp1wCzw36ZF8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/CPzba9gAnfmKDs9g7 My latest progress, I will hopefully get more done this weekend
  17. St3v3g

    London Taxi

    Next model coming close to finish. Made to go with the recent finish London Bus.
  18. Hi, Now with the F4U-4 is all but finished, its time to continue with my 'build two at any give time - if you want a chance in reducing the constantly growing stash' policy. This time I selected to tackle my first bomber / 2 engine plane. This build will be of a Revell A-26B I picked on eBay in a bag - literally in a bag. Some of the clear parts may indicate I have parts from two models. The bag did contain two copies of Instructions. I've put the bag in an old D-link modem box Decal sheet looks too yellow for comfort I may be looking for a decal sheet - any recommendation are welcomed. When I washed the parts and moved them to a box more easily accommodated on the bench - I've heard a small part falling - and the carpet monster got it Loosing a part even before I started - that's a first one.
  19. USS New Jersey, Platinum Edition 1:350 Revell The USS New Jersey, a 45,000-ton Iowa class battleship, was built at the Philadelphia Navy Yard, Pennsylvania. Commissioned in May 1943, she spent the rest of that year in the western Atlantic and Caribbean area. New Jersey went to the Pacific in early 1944 and conducted her first combat operations in support of the Marshalls invasion. She was Fifth Fleet flagship during the mid-February raid on the Japanese base at Truk, where she used her guns to sink one enemy ship and join in sinking another. Through the rest of 1944, she took part in raids on Japanese-held islands, the Marianas invasion and Battle of Philippine Sea, the Battle of Leyte Gulf and operations against the Philippines. From August 1944, she was flagship of Admiral William F. Halsey's Third Fleet. The New Jersey continued her Pacific combat operations into 1945, supporting the invasions of Iwo Jima and the Ryukyus. Following overhaul, she again became Fifth Fleet flagship during the final days of World War II and remained in the Far East until early 1946. She then went to the Atlantic in 1947 and made one midshipmen's training cruise to Europe before decommissioning in June 1948. The Korean War brought the New Jersey back into commission in November 1950. Two Korean combat tours in 1951 and 1953 were punctuated by a European cruise in the Summer of 1952. After returning home from the western Pacific in late 1953, New Jersey operated in the Atlantic. She deployed to Mediterranean and European waters twice in 1955-56 and was placed out of commission in August 1957. During the Vietnam war USS New Jersey was the only battleship recalled to duty. She recommissioned in April 1968 and arrived off Southeast Asia in September. From then until April 1969, she conducted frequent bombardments along the South Vietnamese coast. But, whilst preparing for a second Vietnam tour, she was ordered inactivated and decommissioned in December 1969. The early 1980s defence build-up produced a fourth active period for the New Jersey, beginning with her recommissioning after an extensive refit, which saw the mounting of cruise missile boxes, harpoon launchers and Vulcan Phalanx CIWS in December 1982. She again fired her big guns in combat during the Lebanon crisis of 1983-84 and deployed to the western Pacific in 1986 and 1989-90, with the latter cruise extending to the Persian Gulf area. Decommissioned again in February 1991, USS New Jersey was towed from the Pacific to the Atlantic in 1999. She is since become a museum at Camden, New Jersey. The Model Originally released by Revell in 2000 and re-released in 2002 this kit appears older than it really is with quite a lot of flash and extraneous moulding stubs. The original kit looks like it was meant to have been motorised at some point as all the mountings are still extant. When released it wasnt exactly the best produced model of the New Jersey, that accolade went to the Tamiya kit, but it was pretty accurate. In this Platinum release Revell have included lots of goodies to try and bring the kit up to date including wooden decks, etched metal parts plus turned brass barrels and masts. Once cleaned up and the areas which fall short of todays standards removed, the additional parts really bring the model up to a good standard with lots of fine details and accurate shapes. The completed kit on shop at Scale Model World in Telford showed how good it could look. With the appropriate care, patience and time the model could meet almost museum standards. The major hurdle in building the kit is the way the instructions are presented. The original kit instructions have not been altered in any way. Instead the assembly and fitting of the etched and turned parts are provided on three A3 double sided sheets, so a lot of toing and froing will be required to ensure the correct assemblies and parts are fitted to their respective positions, which could get quite frustrating. It might be an idea to go through all the instructions first and mark on the main booklet where the additional parts need to go, so that none are missed or you find that something needs to be removed and youve got to the point where it will be awkward to do so. The standard build starts with the some areas on the single piece hull being removed. Dont forget to add the strengthening beams that were a feature of this commission, along the hull sides before painting. This is followed by the assembly of the three main gun turrets which consist of the mounting, upper turret, the three barrels, rangefinder housings and hatches. With the addition of the etched parts and brass barrels these turrets are transformed. The three barrels are now meant to be fitted to the main deck with locking piece fitted from the underside so that they turn. This is a toy like feature which I feel is unnecessary and will cause problems later in the build, so leave them off until the painting and wooden deck are fitted. What you can do is fit the main deck to the hull and once the propellers, their shafts and the rudders are fitted I would paint the hull and deck furniture, fit the wooden deck, and then put the assembly to one side whilst the rest of the parts are constructed. Attention is now focused on the main single piece superstructure section onto which the superstructure sides are attached. Now there is quite a bit of flash on these parts so a good clean up is called for before fitting. Dont forget to check with the etch instruction sheets as quite a few splinter shields and the like need to be removed, to be replaced by the etched brass parts. This goes for the whole superstructure, bridge and foremast, including the aerials, radars, funnels and main gun directors. In fact there is an awful lot of work to be done when building all these assemblies, but it will be worth it. The whole of the top of the foremast is in fact replaced with brass, the highlight being the super complex SPS-49 and AN/SPS 10 radar arrays. The kit funnels come with solid tops, so these need to be drilled out and carefully cut away and filed before the new caps can be fitted. The instructions have very clear diagrams showing how to do this. With the main fore and aft superstructure assembled and spruced up its on to the other weapon systems where again extensive use of the PE improves the look of the Harpoon and Cruise missile systems. The only downside is that the Vulcan Phalanx systems do not get any treatment and really could do with replacing with more accurate aftermarket parts. With this build you might as well go the whole hog and make the best model you can. The five inch gun turrets are improved with the addition of the turned barrels, etched ladders and doors. There is so much additional detail included in this kit that its difficult to explain it all, suffice to say that everything from the ships boats crutches, ensign and jack staffs are replaced. I particularly like the treatment the Refuelling At Sea boom gets, with replacement fixtures and the addition of the fuel hoses dangling down. The boats davits are also given an overhaul with the addition of the downhauls, access ladders and blocks. Even the Seahawk helicopters are given the etch treatment, with new undercarriage, rotors, both folded and spread, swash plates and pitch controls. Once the wooden decks are laid there are numerous deck hatches, windlasses and other fittings to add. Finally a full set of railings for the whole ship are included, including the flightdeck netting and blackned chain for the anchors. Decals The single decal sheet contains the ships name plaques, identification numbers, awards, and the whole of the faintail flightdeck with the correct markings. The helicopters also get national markings and Navy titling. There are several decals for certain sensors, but I think these would better painted. They seem pretty well printed, with good density and with minimal carrier film, but the larger items will probably need some softener or setting solution to settle them down nicely. There is also a paper sheet with code/signal flags should you wish to add them. Conclusion From a pretty ropey looking kit, certainly on initial inspection I think Revell have really turned this one around with the addition of the etched parts, turned brass and the wooden deck. It has the potential to build into an outstanding model given the appropriate care and attention. Yes it will take some work, and definitely one for a seasoned modeller not a beginner. Very highly recommended Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  20. While I,am slowly working on HMS Eskimo in between giving my eyes a rest I have started on this fun build it will be OOB (Honest) after fighting all the little brass bits this is a bit of stress relief I had planned on doing this for the Pacific at war GB but it did not quite fit into the right criteria for the areas stated in the South East Asia campaigns so going to build it anyway where it fits with all floaty things I was inspired to get this kit a few years ago at SMW after following a great build by Gremlin 56 (RIP my friend) so will be trying to get some where near the top quality job he managed to pull off I will also be putting it in a small diorama trying to copy from the box art the colour scheme I will be doing And the cargo M4 Sherman's M8 Greyhound and Duce and a haff 3 of each beefy
  21. Robert Stuart

    B-17 Mk II

    I've been dithering about my options, and finally settled for this ... A meteorological reconnaissance B-17 Mk II of 251 Squadron, Coastal Command based in Reykjavík, Iceland.
  22. This Eurofighter has sat around taped together for some time and is my second choice for this years KUTA. I started it during a lull between builds, but other things got in the way and little progress was made. I assembled the wings to the fuselage halves and did some minor work around the intake, but that was it. The plan back then was to finish it as ZK353/BQ as flown by Flt. Lt. Jonny Dowen of 29(F) Squadron RAF based at RAF Coningsby in 2015 So here is how things stand at present, along with the intended scheme. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr And this shows the parts un-taped and the small amount of work done previously. by John L, on Flickr
  23. At my son's request my next build is Revell's 1:72 Avro Lancaster B.Mk.III. I have just finished building a Shackleton, so it is going to be great comparing the kit's and aircraft. The iconic Lancaster bomber has rapidly become one of my favourite military aircraft, whether it is watching the BBMF displaying or visiting the haunting Mk. I on display in London, the sheer presence of the aircraft is thrilling. Anyway, back to the build! I am planning to build Lancaster B.MK.III, No.100 Squadron from RAF Elsham Wolds, 1945, with landing gear up. It will be a straight from the box build with the exception of Vallejo acrylic in place of Revell and a home made display stand. The box includes, detailed instructions, a set of decals and small clear sprue. There are also 6 white/grey sprues with little to no flash and a nice amount of detailing. Time for the fun to begin.
  24. German Staff Car "G4" 1:72 Revell The Mercedes Benz W31 type G4 was a large, three-axle car designed specifically for use as a staff car by the Wehrmacht. Powered by an eight-cylinder inline engine, the cars weight an impressive 3.7 tonnes. Maximum speed was limited to 42mph as a result of the chunky all-terrain tyres. Just 57 cars of the seven-seater cars were produced, of which at least three exist in their original state. One is located in Hollywood and is regularly used for war films. The vehcle is, of course, most famous for being used by Adolf Hilter during parades and inspections. The front passenger seat could be folded in order to allow the front passenger to stand during such events. Inside the surprisingly large end-opening box is one large frame of grey plastic, a much smaller frame of the same, a small clear frame, three steel rods which are used as axles and a set of soft rubber tyres. A small decal sheet is also included. I had wondered whether this was a brand new kit from Revell, but on closer inspection it's clear that this is the ICM kit which was released in 2015 and marketed as a snap-fit model. This is no bad thing however, as the ICM kit is well-regarded and nicely detailed. Surface detail is clean and crisp, and first impressions are very favourable. The instruction omit any mention of snap-fit assembly, so presumably you need to crack open the glue before carrying on. Assembly begins with the interior and body. The rear seat and door trim is painted gloss black to represent a leather finish, and the reat seat itself, as well as the wind screen, are integral parts that join the sides of the body together. Once the body has been joined to the floorpan, the bonnet, instrument panel and radiator cover can be fitted in place. At this point the model can be flipped over and all of the mechanical detail can be added. The eight-cylinder engine is pretty good, although not the most detailed I've seen in this scale. The ladder chassis is moulded with the front wings in place, and the engine mounts into this part from the top. After this, the chassis can be glued to the body, with the engine sandwiched between the two. Now that the substantive part of the car is complete, the exhaust and the wheels can be added. As mentioned above, the axles are made from steel rod and will allow free movement of the wheels if fitted correctly. Presumably the tolerances will be tight enough to make supergluing these parts superfluous. If you're wondering why Revell supply eight tyres with the kit, it's because two of them are for the spare wheels that fit either side of the bonnet. finishing details include fitted luggage and the folding roof (in folded position; ICM released a separate version of the kit with the roof up). Small flag poles and nicely detailed headlights are also included. Two different options are provides for on the decal sheet. The first is for a Wehrmacht staff car based in Berlin in 1942. It is finished in the light grey and black scheme featured on the box artwork. The second option is for a vehicle located in France in 1941. As you might expect for a vehicle used in occupied territory, it is finished in a more sombre dark grey finish. The decal sheet is small but nicely printed, however the swastikas have been omitted from the flags for the usual legal reasons. Conclusion This was a great kit when it was first released and nothing much has changed since. It's strange that Revell don't mention the snap-fit origins of this kit as kits of this nature can be virtually impossible to test fit prior to assembly (at least without a high risk of breaking the parts when trying to separate them again) but overall this should be a nice kit to build. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  25. fet_thunderdome

    Ford GT: Revell and Tamiya

    Hi Everyone, i have seen the Ford GT Le Mans from Revell and it has a lot of issues (as any Revell kit). It has awful plastics, not so good details, thickness (on the rear diffuser wings in particular), and wheels too small. Then i saw Tamiya will release a road version of the same car. Detail and precision we all know that will be top notch, as usual (it costs almost twice the price..). I am here wondering if, in you opinion, there could be a chance that Tamiya will release a Le Mans version too. And if someone has Revell kit can make a wip? Thanks and regards
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