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Found 1,377 results

  1. theplasticsurgeon

    Tim's Shamrock Special B17F

    Joining you with this Revell B-17F kit. Here are the parts still in bags. Instructions and decals. I'll be building this option Shamrock Special As can be seen, I've copied the boxtop flap idea from my B-17G colleagues.
  2. I’ve been a BM member for about a year now and this is my first WIP. I feel slightly apprehensive about this because: (a) I’m a comparative novice. having only just come back to the hobby last year after an absence of half a century; (b) I’m assembling a kit under the critical gaze of fellow Britmodellers many of whom are extraordinarily talented and experienced and; (c) carrying out the conversion is going to be complex. I bought the Revell Victor before the Airfix one came out as it was the only one available, and I wanted it to accompany the Airfix Vulcan which was my ‘first’ build last year (and blimey that was challenging). I've since added a couple of the new Airfix Victors to my modest stash, but they're B2 and K2 variants, so I decided to convert the Revell one into a B1 as I think it's the most 'pure' in shape and form. I have no idea how long this will take but I hope I’m up to the task. Please do give advice, point out errors and comment generally! So, here goes: I started with the cockpit. The Flightpath set contains some nice photo-etch for the instrument panel but as there is nothing for the rear crew’s panel I thought I’d make one. It’s not based on reality but I’m fairly pleased with the way it turned out, even if it is a touch over-scale. I made a mistake on the crews’ seats. I’ve seen the Airfix model features swivel seats but the Revell one doesn’t, so I decided to add interest into the rear of the cockpit by showing them turned. I then discovered that this wasn’t a feature on the early Victors because the seats were fixed. But having cut and glued them in place I decided to leave them as they were. My initial plan was to include the three crew members, so I decided not to paint the seat pads, just the backs and sides. I also made a table for the rear crew. Crikey, the camera doesn’t lie does it. They look terrible... I’ve dry-fitted the cockpit into the fuselage halves to see how it fits, and how much is likely to be visible. No-one is ever going to see anything of the crew other than the pilot and co pilot... At this point I thought I’d dry fit the resin intakes to see how they fit. They’re really very nice and hopefully won’t need too much filler (at least on the top). The underside is going to need a bit of filler though... They don’t seem to quite fill the slots in the fuselage on either side... Having done that I set about chopping the kit’s wings. Gulp. Not having done this before, I measured once, twice and three times before cutting but they didn’t fit the resin particularly well (and I didn’t take a photo). So I cut again, but this time along the wrong panel line and with a dry fit look as though they will go together quite nicely. I'm hoping no-one will notice that they're roughly 1.5mm shorter than they should be!.. I’m puzzled by the shallowness of the rear jet exhaust ends though. They have very little depth, so I’ve decided to deepen them a bit. I’m scared stiff of wrecking the resin parts so I’ve been really careful, and held the drill bits in my fingers and turned by hand.It’s going to be a slow job. This is where I am with that so far... As a diversion from drilling resin I thought I’d take a look at the wing assemblies and slice some carrots. What bothered me was glueing the sections together so that they all joined at the correct angle. So I enlisted the help of a couple of flexible steel rules to act like spllnts... That seemed to work. I’ve also added the metal wingtips... At this point I thought I’d attend to the pilot and co pilot. I have no idea why I’ve turned both their heads slightly towards port, but I have. I’ve added some very simple detailing with strips of masking tape to their seats, and added the photo-etched pull handles... They’re now sitting in the cockpit. Incidentally the blunt nose pitot thngy was broken in the box. I'll be replacing it eventually... And so far she looks like this. Still dry-fitted apart from the cockpit and the plastic parts of the wings. I've filled the joints with plasticard and a touch of filler. There's still an awful long way to go. I might have it finished by Christmas 2019 ! All comments welcome.
  3. Little Patches B-17G 91st Bomb Group. The name "Little Patches" was acquired after the aircraft's first combat mission with Lt William Major's crew when Frankfurt flak put many splinters through the ship. The damage was primarily cosmetic but the skin required numerous small aluminium patches prompting Lt Major to name the ship. Building the Revell 1/72 B-17G isn't difficult in itself, difficulties start begin when you are trying to use Eduard Biged. I only can say, that the main technology during the build of this model was soldering, not gluing. In addition, the following extras are also was used; - vacform canopies (Pavla models); - decals for "Little Patches" (Microscale); - resin wheels (Eduard). Well and some scratchbuilt parts of course. Some photos during the process. Thank you for looking, any comments are welcome.
  4. LostCosmonauts

    B-17G

    Answering @vppelt68‘s siren call I’ve rooted my B-17 kit out of the stash. Part of a Revell 8th AF set as A Bit o’ Lace (I’m not sure about the scheme though but that decision can come later) Innards all present and correct Due to me not checking back on here about the start date I may have in a fit of enthusiasm have flung some glue at 1 or 2 sub assemblies Still less than 25% though so I guess the GB gods will be merciful
  5. T8247741

    1/35 T-14 Armata decals

    Have just picked up the Revell boxing of Zvezda's T-14 Armata Beautiful looking kit.................dull decals !! I have been searching for other options anyone know of any ? Cheers Paul
  6. So... The project AIRBUS A300-600ST BELUGA that was started in Sep'16 is completed now. Original body: Airbus A300-600ST BELUGA Model: Revell 04206 Scale: 1/144 Aftermarket parts: no Livery: Airbus Beluga first roll-out and flight color scheme It was challenging project, but not all things I kept in mind was realized here. Anyway, to be honest, I like the result . Initially, it was quite old mid-quality Revell kit and ordinary livery in the box (as for me). Of course, white modern Airbus home livery is good but do not expect you'll get bright model on your shelf after completion... Looking for detailed photos of Beluga, I've found some interesting pics of first roll-out and flight and finally decided to make my model with this painting scheme! I've collected almost all photos of Beluga from that time period. At least, all available in inet . It is just 8 pics, +2 videos. That is all I had for start... Link to build (WIP):
  7. Bf109G-10 (Erla) set is intended for Revell 1/32 kit. The kit allows to solve major nose section shape problems such as slim, narrow appearance, incorrect spacing between MG troughs, strange “dent” under supercharger intake, oil cooler fairing shape and other small details visible on nose surface. Basic set RC3214 consist of four resin details and will be available also in bundle as RP3214 with our PE sets (exhaust pipes shrouds and steel oil cooler meshes). RC3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece. RP3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece PE parts fret – 2 piece.
  8. Dear fellow Britmodellers, being primarily an aircraft modeler, I'm rarely contributing to this subforum; however, I'm proud to present one of the few tracked vehicles I finished recently. This is Revell's 1/72 SdKfz 7/1, built with the addition of Schatton metal gun barrels. Represents a vehicle of Heeresflak-Abteilung 281 (mot), 116th Tank Division "Windhund", operating in the Aachen region in late 1944. Read more about combat actions of 116th Tank Division here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/116th_Panzer_Division_(Wehrmacht) I painted with Gunze acrylics and weathered with artists oils and pastel chalks. I still need to improve on my weathering techniques for combat vehicles, but I hope you like the outcome. All photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Thank you very much for your interest in this topic. With best greetings from Vienna, Roman
  9. This will be my build of 'Outhouse Mouse' a B-17G that survived the war and was returned to the USA using the Revell 1/72 G kit: I know the decal instructions state both 1/72 and 1/48 its a typo the decals are at 1/72...phew I won't be using any aftermarket stuff but will try and add some additional detail from scratch. Haven't built a heavy for donkey's years so should be interesting. Cheers, Mark.
  10. I wasn't going to post this one up until I started it properly, but here goes anyway. At the moment, I'm just doing the spray painting bits while the weather allows. The build will be later in the year, but with my spray booth in the garage I have to do the spraying while it's warm and dry enough. So first job is to decide on the colour. The instructions are for the car in beige, but I wanted to try another of the factory colours. Unfortunately, the choice of colours from Trabant demonstrate the wow factor you would expect from the Eastern Bloc - as well as beige the choice is Invalid Carriage Blue, Dirty Off White, Pale Grey, Baby Sick, and two shades of green, one of which resembles the glowing stick of uranium from the Simpson's opening and one of which resembles dying grass. I decided to go with the grey as I think it might suit the car. The kit is Revell's Trabant Universal. On first glance, and from what I've read, it looks a nicely detailed kit with lots of parts... and also lots of steps to the instructions (46!). The body looks pretty nice apart from some sink marks front and rear on each side so those have been filled, and the mould lines are hidden behind what will be a trim line from front to rear with only small lines on the front of the car. The door lines are also quite shallow so I scribed them too. There's quite a lot of bits which are body colour, which means quite a bit of spraying with this one. I'll only put up the chassis and the body for the spraying, the rest would just be repetitive. The pic below shows it very early on, and I've put the roof panel, bonnet and boot in place to give an idea of how it will look. This pic is after the scribing and the first attempt at filling the sink marks, the ones at the front needing quite a bit of filling. The spoon in the foreground shows what I hope to be the final colour - this one is Revell's USAF Light Grey, which being a matt paint will need a couple of goes with the clear where there are decals. As usual, the primer showed that this wasn't the best filling job, so all the sink marks needed filling and sanding again before it got another coat of primer. And here we are with the body finally complete and wearing it's coat of primer. Meanwhile, the chassis paint was running in parallel to the body. This one is mostly in matt black and I managed to get it painted relatively easily. However, the rear wheel arches should have the finish in body colour, so I had to break out the foil and the masking tape in preparation for colour coating them. Two weeks later, after adding the colour coat (directly over the black), I added the clear coat and then removed the masking. I have to say that I am quite pleased with the result. There is some detailing required to parts of this (principally the handbrake cable), but that will come when I reach that stage of the build. And then my paint woes hit. First of all, that can of spray paint which was fine for the chassis wheel arches decided to lose pressure two weeks later. And the other can I had ran out very quickly only doing a few larger parts and a mist coat and a half on the body before running out. So this is where it is now: So I'm out of spray paint and have a very unfinished car. Fortunately, I've just got myself a new, but cheap, airbrush which I was only planning on using at first on areas where it wouldn't be that visible. Having managed to extract about 20ml from the low pressure can I guess I will have to try with that. Would I be right in thinking that the paint from a spray can will go straight through the airbrush ok without thinning? And has anyone any experience of spraying with Revell acrylic paints from the tub if I need to go down that route? Would I be better off just getting another spray can if so required?
  11. Flakpanzer IV "Wirbelwind" (2cm Flak 38) 1:72 Revell 02367 The origins of the Flakpanzer IV Wirbelwind can be traced back to the North African campaign, when large numbers of Wehrmacht vehicles were decimated by fighter bombers of the RAF Desert Air Force. A number of temporary solutions were put in place, generally involving converting a range of vehicles to carry single flak guns. As the German military situation deteriorated, particularly on the Eastern Front, it became clear that a more permanent solution was required. A number of solutions were tried and tested until the first true Flakpanzer appeared in the shape of the Wirbelwind. All-in-all, between 87 and 105 Wirbelwinds were converted from existing Panzer IV chassis. The turrets were removed and replaced with an open-topped version surrounded with 16mm armour plating. The turret was fitted with the quadruple 2cm Flak 38, providing a high rate of fire. Most of the completed Wirbelwinds were deployed to Normandy in the wake of the Allied invasion. They didn't fare particularly well in combat though, with most being destroyed, captured or abandoned. Ironically they were more effective against soft skin vehicles and infantry than aircraft. For a type that was built in reasonably limited numbers, the Wirbelwind has been reasonably well-served by model manufacturers. In 1:35, there are several options to choose from, including kits from Dragon, Tamiya and Academy (the latter based closely on the Tamiya kit). Tamiya also have a kit of the type in 1:48 scale. In 1:72 you can choose from older kits by Hasegawa or Esci, as well as this kit by Revell. The kit is effectively a reboxing of the MACO kit released in 2015, which in turn is based on the Revell Panzer IV; a kit released way back when Bob the Builder had a Christmas number one and the Millenium Dome was still a thing. Inside the compact end-opening box are five sprues of grey plastic which hold a total of 190 parts. The sprues are well laid out and the mouldings are free from flash. Surface detail is clean and crisp, and first impressions are very favourable. As is usually the case with military vehicle kits, construction starts with the chassis. There is plenty of detail to add to the hull, including a multi-part exhaust system and towing hooks. No shortcuts have been taken with the road wheels, which are proper two-part jobbies. Take it from me, however, that painting the road wheels on thirty-two individual wheels will drive you bonkers. The tracks are of the link and length variety and have been very nicely moulded. Once the running gear is in place, construction moves on to the upper hull. In keeping with the rest of the model, this is nicely detailed and extra parts such as spare wheels, tracks and pioneer tools are all present and correct. The hatches may also be posed open if desired, although there is no interior. The quadruple Flak 38 mounting is a separate sub-assembly which replaces the kit's original turret. Revell/MACO have done a good job with this part of the kit, and the high part count points to a very good overall level of detail. You will need to drill out the barrels of the 2cm cannon, but that is no hardship. You can choose from different turret configurations, although differences are small. One is described as the 'series' turret, while the other is labelled '12 PD.'. Lots of additional details such as spare magazines are provided too. The kit is calling out for some crew figures, but sadly none are included. Two different options are provides for on the decal sheet. Flakpanzer IV "Wirbelwind", 12.PD Turret, Panzerregiment 12, Bretagne, France, Summer 1944; and Flakpanzer IV "Wirbelwind", Series Turret, 10. Panzergrenadierdivision, Berlin, Germany, April 1945. The decal sheet is small but nicely printed. Conclusion This is a great kit based on a great kit. Revell and MACO have done a really nice job with the conversion parts and the result is by far the best and most detailed Wirbelwind available in this scale and it should be a nice kit to build. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  12. Redstaff

    Revell Tornado GR4

    After searching everywhere for one of these with them coming up NLA and ones on Ebay going for silly money, @Witness pointed me in the direction of the main Revell site where they still have stock Thanks mate It took less than a week to come and cost about £40 delivered from Germany with a free torch thrown in as a bonus I bid on one on Ebay and that went for over £40 with P&P to add on, so I'm happy Don't know how many they have left, so I'd get in quick if you want one as they might not be around for long
  13. This was a fabulous kit to make, all the parts fitted really well and with good instructions, as well as a nice array of stores. My first 1/48 kit. I think I left the wing strakes a bit too long, and I haven't got the skill to fashion the three tiny canopy mirrors, plus she's a bit too satin not matt, but I hope she captures the essence of a Jag from the days when it was so much fun to hang out at the end of Coltishall's runway, or see them screaming low over Norfolk! All comments welcome ...
  14. I found this aircraft listed as a future release for October on the Hannants website, and I´m wondering if it´s going to be a reboxing of the Eduard Bf 109F-2. The price is really tempting too. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV3893
  15. Here we have Revell's 1/144 Lockheed Sea Shadow, dating from 1996. A bit of an unusual build, due to its shape, with a little care the kit goes together well, with a nicely detailed interior which can be glimpsed through the glazing and the open doors. The only problem with the assembly is you are left with two gaps between the underside and the outriggers on the inside, so a lot of filler is required. Hairystick painted in humbrol enamels, with a final satin cote. The decals were a problem, the set with the model were not in the best of condition, luckily i thought i found a spare set on evilbay. Being aware of ghosting especially on black i soaked the first in decal fix, the water;line decals broke and had to be put on in bits, fortunately i tried the inside of the out riggers first, when dry massive ghosting. Checking my research pics the waterline markings were removed later in the project, so i decided to go with the minimal decals i could, not to draw attention to the ghosting. So here she is for your perusal. All the best Chris
  16. Wtf? Two identical sprues? Very detailed panels,seats and cockpit area! Detailed exhaust and pipes! Seam Line Great decals Great panel lines Other...
  17. I thought I would start her with my first post, a rather challenging conversion of Revell's 1:24 London Bus into the Knight Bus from the Harry Potter film the Prisoner of Azkaban. following some fairly in-depth research I decided that a conversion using two kits should be possible, along the way some conversion would also be necessary to change the bus from an AEC Routmaster RML to the older AEC Regent III on which the bus in the film is based ( the book illustrations do show a Triple-Decker Routmaster, but I wanted this to be a copy of the bus seen in the film Work will include shortening the body by removing the 'central bay' to make a standard wheelbase Routemaster Modifying the top deck especially the front and rear sections to accept the new top floor Fitting out the interior with chandelier and berths for sleeping wizards Thanks for watching, any help and advice gratefully received Jim
  18. Hi guys, this one has been creeping up on me. But as promised I will build the 1/32 Revell P-39D. As you all may know, but this is a re-box op the special hobby kit. I will build it out of the box, but maybee I will get some goodies for it. I am thinking of buildig it as a Russian version. I will need to get a decalset for it or some maskes. The foto's of the box and content will follow later. cheers,
  19. Ok guys, next project. Or better a reboot. I had gotten this as a bd present and started this one last year. Due to stress at work and a training and uncertainity I could do the mottling scheme I put it aside. Having finished my La-5 I now return to this but not without a challenge. Due to the home decoration I got no workspace AND most of my paints and stuff is behind a heap of other stuff in the garage. So I can just cut, clean and glue abit. This makes that I try to clean and assemble as much as possible. And cleaning I do need to this. My first verdict is that it is not a perfect model but this package of a big bag of plastic and lots of nice detail for €35,- is a steal.The box with sub assemblies and parts fill quickly. Well there are a view weird attachment points on the engine part. Points?? Hmm more strips, will have to sand down this abit. There were four of these strips on both engine caps :(. . . The lower hull with lower wings. I needed to help this a bit to get the undercarriage part in place. Dry fitting with the hull will show if I can proceed. I can only build with good weather in the gardin till 5pm. So pray with me for good weather next weekend! Greetings Lars
  20. Calling this one done. Was quite a big struggle for me at times... Mainly due to it's size alone. I broke off almost all the guns during the painting... All in all I really enjoyed the kit. The interior is nicely detailed, as are the engines. I had some real issues with getting the engines lined up inside the nacelles, but I think it just about turned out OK. The 4 colour paint job was a big jump for me - and due to my using Belton rattle cans (which come in an amazing variety of colours - but can be very thick) some of the surface details were lost under coats. I am quite happy with how the camo looks, but on reflection would have liked to make the sand / sky blotches a little more intricate. I used the box decals - with larger markings I sanded them a bit before applying them, which made it easier to chip at them with a sharp blade once microsol was on. Part of me wishes I had bought aftermarket decals for the actual unit... Was largely built OOB except for some wiring added to the gear, and some scratched details for the cockpit... I mainly enjoyed experimenting with varying acrylic shades on the interior and legs... WIP thread is here for those interested in my shambolic work along the way! Thanks for looking! Bruce
  21. After finishing my two Chaparrals (see them here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235043149-texas-roadrunners-chaparral-2c-and-2d/ ) I wanted to do one more automotive subject before moving on to some aircraft sitting on my "To Do" shelf. The Chaparrals were supposed to be a quick "out of the box" project, but they turned out to be more complicated than expected. What to do? While researching the Chaparral 2D coupe I found this photo from the 1966 Daytona 24-hour race: Ford's GT-40s dominated that race, earning four of the top five positions! I found a Revell boxing of the winning car, #98, on eBay and chose that as my new project. The Revell kit is, in fact, a Fujimi GT-40. Good news is that the Fujimi GT-40 builds up very nicely. The bad news is that Revell simply added new decals to a generic Fujimi GT-40, leaving out details particular to the #98 car. As a result, this project wasn't exactly the "out of the box" build I had been hoping for. I would have done better to purchase Fujimi's version, which is more accurate: More on that, later... On to the pics! U As I mentioned earlier, Revell's kit requires some modifications to better model the Daytona #98 GT-40. For starters, two air scoops on the rear deck need to be removed, as well as a "blister" on the roof over the driver's head: Also, I had to re-build the radiator outlet to replicate that on the #98 car: I replaced the front grill with some wire cloth left over from my Chaparral project: There are other inaccuracies in the Revell kit that I didn't attempt to fix. For example, the fuel filler cap is on the wrong side, and there should be blisters on the body over the front tires. The Fujimi kit fixes all of these errors, thus my statement that I should have bought that kit instead of Revell's. If you've followed along this far, let me show you a few more in-process pics: All in all, this was an enjoyable build. Aside from correcting Revell's errors, the only problems I encountered were of my own making. I foresee building a few more Fujimi GT-40s in the not-too-distant future!
  22. Morning all! The Tornado Gr.1 kit that Revell offers in 1:72 is probably the go-to kit when it comes to modelling IDS variants in that scale. However, despite producing a fabulous 1:48 Tornado GR4 and a 1:48 F.3 ADV kit in recent years, the GR4 in 1:72 scale remains an illusive subject for Revell- having only been covered by Airfix's "attempt" (which I'll be quite honest, I forgot existed until I googled it) and the Hasegawa kit (which is around 2-4 times as expensive as the Revell kit). I've built 2 Tornado GR1's before, both of them Revell: With the impending retirement of the Tornado GR4 from RAF service next year, I thought it would appropriate to have a crack at a 1:72 Tornado GR4. Kit: I bought this particular kit from the Newark Air Museum (I highly recommend a visit there, it's by far one of the better aviation museums that I've had the pleasure of visiting) and used decals from the Xtradecal "RAF and RN Update 2014-15 Pt.1". Detailing: Although I don't strive for 100% accuracy with my builds, the key differences between a GR1 and GR4 are the presence of FLIR pod, the removal of a cannon and the introduction of more digital displays in the cockpit. Instead of going for aftermarket sets (which I hear are rather good, and I'll look at using one for my next build) I shaped and scribed a piece of scrap sprue to match the rough dimensions of the FLIR pod. The cannon was "removed" by a splash of filler and a bout of sanding, and finally the instrument panels were slightly modified to look more like those of a GR4 (although in this scale you can't see much anyway!). The weaponry of Storm Shadows and ASRAAMs were taken from a Revell Eurofighter kit. Paints: Vallejo Model Air paints were used throughout, alongside a Dark Dirt wash from UMP and landing gear weathering was aided by the application of an AK Interactive landing gear Dust wash. Conclusion: So, that's it for this build. As I've found with my previous attempts, the Revell Tornado kit is one of those kits that is "fun" to build and comes with some incredible detail (just look at those rivets!) straight out of the box. I did make a mess with one of the decals from the Xtradecal set (the "...ary" in 100th anniversary were destroyed during decal placement on the left hand side of the aircraft) and although the repair looks acceptable from a distance, close-up it's quite obvious. I believe it to be entirely my fault and I still regard Xtradecal sets as some of the finest aftermarket decals that I've used. Thanks for having a look! Best wishes, Sam
  23. Allllllrighty then! My recent conversion from the dark side (Armour), and ensuing Mojo restoration and reinvigoration has resulted in my actually finishing something, albeit two builds belonging to my teenage son, who incidentally still has not noticed that my S.O.D. has nudged his to one side, but that is a horse of a different colour, the upshot of all this is that like a convert to anything, not smoking, not drinking, bdsm, I find myself compelled to "spread the good news"! So for you good people here tonight I will begin the hopefully short WIP of my first build for ME since the early 90`s when I had a go at a Hasegawa Blackhawk and a Hind! The "Leg Iron" has gone to France for a couple of weeks during the interminable summer break that teachers get, so I reasoned that a brief trip to the local model shop (Waterlooville model shop, although it`s actually in Portsmouth) would not be spotted, the juices were bubbling and I needed a fix and I found two kits that got me revving, I read a lot, and two of my recent reads will resonate with a lot of people on here, " Carrier Pilot" by norman Hanson and "On and off the flight deck" by Hank Adlam, so when I saw this I thought this is a go! Now I`m not going to detail all the arguments regarding the accuracy of this kit, either way there are pluses and minuses but at less than seven quid I`m happy! I had a search on the site for builds of this kit, there is one currently going on although putting a link in and so forth is currently beyond me, I`ll not insult your intelligence by pretending I've not had a cider or two, but it` s saturday night! Now, the main issues as far as I could make out were broad chord prop and for want of a better name "drop tanks", on the other build the broad chord prop was brought in later than the serial number of the kits serial number, so I need a later serial number, So we`ll go with the FAA Corsair decals from Eaglecals, nice late serial number there! (can you guess the next build?) "Drop tanks"? bin em.............. Along with the decals I got a "Big Ed" set of seat belts/harnesses for allsorts, so I read that Corsair IV`s were fitted with Q type harnesses , that's dealt with, Ok, it`s sideways but it`s a canopy mask set, but it was well cheap! Job jobbed! So I just thought I would have a quick look at the various bits and bobs............................. All washed and gleaming, whats not to like? Yeah these fell off, but they're ok! And then BOOM! the thing built it`s self..........................almost The wings went together without issue, there was a bit of fettling with the coolers, but seriously, five minutes............ a swipe of filler and these will be good to go.................. engine and cockpit were quick and easy, nice detail and in the booth quicker than you could say knife! And finally for today a shot of stynylrez before painting tomorrow................. So that's me done for today, minimum aftermarket and half the kit built in an afternoon............just like being 12 again! Granto
  24. Buying something from Amazon I needed something to take me up to the magic twenty squids and free postage, so I had put this little fellow in my "save for later" basket some time ago for just such a day. I usually top up with Vallejo paints but this time I needed a fiver so this little chap for six squids was just the job. Quick little throwaway bit of fun... But when I opened it. Well it isn't a bad little model. So I started thinking about "doing something" with it. Anyhoo, more on the MF model and what I decided to "do" with it later, I decided I wanted something to display it on. Probably my favourite Star Wars moment is when the Millennium Falcon swoops down on Darth Vader closing in on Luke in the trench and takes out his wingman causing DV to abort and Han shouts "Yahoo, you're in the clear kid, let's blow this thing and go home!" So a bit of Death Star scenery is required. A Laser turret. Nothing commercially available that I know of (apart from the Bandai kits and I don't think there is anything suitable?) Anyway I'll just scratchbuild one... First off find some scale plans. The best I could find was Adam Savage's "Tested" website (yes, the "Mythbusters" guy) Build a Studio Scale Death Star Laser Tower It is more concerned with a CAD/CAM model but the drawing gave me a starting point. So, plasticard and tools to hand off we go... So that is where I'm at. You can see I have started on the "Laser Guns" using plastic tubing or different diameters but I need to "greeblie" them up a bit. The thing that looks like the buffer plate from a steam locomotive is to locate the lasers guns behind the curved plate (making them moveable was decreed as a step too far!) What started as a little basket filler has turned into a project. I think the turret is probably too big but the Death Star was a "BIG" thing so who really knows. I was amused to find out that the sets that depict the interior of the Millennium Falcon would not have fitted inside the full 1:1 model that was built at Elstree for filming the scenes in "A New Hope" and that full model was used for the scenes on Tatooine and on the Death Star without being moved, they rebuilt the sets around the model! If anyone is interested in any of the techniques I have used please ask. Peace out.
  25. Star Wars Solo – Imperial Patrol Speeder 1:28 Revell Star Wars: Solo is the latest SW universe film tracing the younger years of smuggler Han Solo, and his hi-jinks before he hooked up with Ben Kenobi and Luke on Tatooine, which changed everyone's lives immensely. I've not seen this episode, but at some point Han gets chased by Imperial troops on Speeder bikes, who don't have the benefit of knowing how that turned out for them on Endor, but I can bet it doesn't end well for them. These Patrol Speeders are more of a sit-in than sit-on vehicle, although the controls seem broadly similar to those used by the Scout Troopers in Jedi. Their riders wear a blend of armour that includes accents from the Shore Troopers of Rogue One, and the familiar Stormtroopers from the original trilogy. The Kit Revell have the license for Star Wars model kits in Europe and the West, and it's good to see them back in action after recent problems resulted in a new management as well as ownership of the company. Solo's raft of new ship and vehicle designs have been committed to plastic in the Build & Play range, which my Son is very fond of and he can still be found playing with the originals a couple of years later, with their original batteries still going strong. His eyes lit up when he saw these, so there's little doubt where they'll be going the minute I've finished with them. All three of the kits in the initial launch have standard-sized boxes, with plenty of card inserts packing out the parts to prevent scuffs from rattling around, and parts bagged in small numbers where appropriate. This one has 40 parts split equally between two identical bikes, both of which have sound effect modules with two sounds at their heart. The figures are made from a flexible vinyl, and sit in a notch in the back of the speeder, with feet on open pedals, and hands on control grips, which they don't quite line up with. That probably won't bother the intended audience however, and they're close enough inboard not to notice. Construction is very simple, as the majority of the hull is already assembled around the electronics, with a small button disguised on the top. Two kick-stands are twisted into place, front & rear detail panels are pushed into their slots, and the seat is installed, leaving a small gap behind it, which is filled by the two rear cowling parts that are added next. Each side has two detail panels that allow some of the moulding underneath to show through, and are moulded in a slightly contrasting grey to accent the detail. The foot pedals and controls fit into holes in the sides, and a probe is fixed to the left of the hull in a large hole, which completes the bike. The rider has separate arms that are moulded with the chest and shoulder armour, which pushes into the front of the body, and is topped off by a head part, which makes it ready to play. Repeat that process for the other one, and then pull the little tabs out of the bottom to complete the circuit and set the 3 x LR44 batteries live and able to make sounds when you tap the button – which happens a lot during construction, just so you don't freak out the first time it happens. They're quite loud! The two sounds are startup and drive-away of the bike, plus a fusillade of blaster fire. Conclusion Marvellous! Two bikes to play with, or to chase poor old (mostly) innocent Han in his "Lego speeder" as I've taken to calling it. More on that shortly. Very highly recommended, and lots of fun! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
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