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Found 531 results

  1. I have never built a Resin kit and I have bought some from Russia. I have paid for them and have heard no more!!!!!!!! If and when these kits turn up I would like to have built a resin kit so this will be the first. I wonder if Moa has built one of these? Box and instructions. Decals. Kits bits still in their plastic bags. I will take some better shots when the parts are removed from the bags. Thanks for stopping by. Stephen
  2. Hi mates, Having just finished one folded wing project (my Fairey Firefly TT.4), and having not learned any lessons by doing so, I decided to jump head first into another! And in resin to boot! This time it's the de Havilland Sea Venom in fabulous 1:72 scale. The build consisted of the basic Sea Venom kit, plus the optional folding wing set, both from those master craftsmen in the Czech Republic, CMR. I love CMR kits - the level of detail is astounding. This project is a tribute to Steve Long (NAVY870) from the Camden Museum of Aviation in Australia. Steve was such a big help with my Firefly build, that I wanted to build a model of an aircraft that he restored, Sea Venom WZ895. He was a huge help on the build, making sure I had all of WZ895's configuration correct. I think I got it all! Project: Royal Australian Navy de Havilland Sea Venom FAW.53 Kits: Czech Master Resin (CMR) de Havilland Sea Venom FAW.21/22 & FAW.53 (kit number 231); Folding Wings Set (kit number DS7207) Scale: 1:72 (Her Majesty's Own Scale) Decals: From the kit, representing WZ895, 870-NW, No. 724 Squadron RAN, Naval Air Station Nowra, Summer 1959 Photoetch: Included with the kit, primarily for the cockpit, control surfaces, antennae, windscreen wiper, wing fences, etc. Vacuform: Two copies included with the kit, and old Fumble Thumbs needed them both! The canopy is supplied as one piece, and must be cut into three sections to be displayed open Paint: Gunze H333 Extra Dark Sea Grey, H331 Dark Sea Grey, H74 Sky, H11 Flat White, H12 Flat Black, H77 Tyre Black, H322 Phthalo Cyanine Blue, H329 Yellow FS13538; Alclad 101 Aluminum, 115 Stainless Steel, 314 Klear Kote Flat, and a bunch I forgot about. Weathering: Post shading to simulate paint fading and wear, and the assorted stains and hydraulic fluid/oil streaks. I applied a grey wash to the Sky underside, and a black wash to the EDSG topside. Improvements/Corrections This was built pretty much out of the box, the only things I added were: Canopy shades Whip aerials (two on the rear canopy and one under the starboard boom) Longer jury struts (the kit supplied struts were too short for proper alignment of the wings when folded) Build thread: Link Now, let's see some photos! Enjoy! Perhaps the most difficult part of the build was getting the alignment of the wings correct. They're not perfect, but I think they're pretty close! I couldn't figure out how to hold the model upside down to take some photos of the underside once the folded wings were on, but I do have these in-process shots before they were added. I wasn't completely finished with the weathering, etc. but I think you can get the idea. And a couple of family shots: Cheers, Bill
  3. I wasn’t sure in which forum to post this, Sci-Fi or Figures, so I flipped a coin and here I am. This is a resin and metal kit I found on eBay and as I wanted a break from my current build I thought it would be a relaxing interlude...wrong! It’s quite an involved build with a lot of tidying up to do on the resin and metal parts, and then there was the drilling and pinning of the parts to contend with. It’s painted with a mixture of Humbrol enamels and Tamiya acrylics (applied with brush and airbrush) with a final coat of Humbrol Matt varnish to seal it all in. I’ve since noticed that on the photo the shoe laces don’t show very well although they do with the naked eye. I used a soft pencil to highlight them so maybe I need to rethink my options. Anyway, here’s Marvin the Martian looking very malicious, look out Bugs!
  4. Scale solutions resin model of the Derelict from Alien,a fairly hefty chunk of nicely cast resin,No air holes and a reasonable fit,Have been watching this kit for a while,However the company is based in Australia,so,with the initial outlay,along with postage and tax,it seemed unlikely I would ever get one,However a partially built one came up on E-Bay and I was the proud owner of another "Grail " kit.The seller was grand too,chucked in some miliput and styrene wire as well. As you can see,the two main booms had been already built. A little space jockey figure can be built into the main hull. You can build one of two versions,the intact version as seen in "Alien",or the damaged version with a collapsed beam as as seen in "Aliens" An extra base piece is added to lay the collapsed beam on. As i was building the alien version this base piece was not required,but I hate to see good resin go to waste,so ,with a bit of flipping and modelling clay I have joined the two together. A bit of minor surgey later. And all blended in. And given a coat of primer. I think the Derelict is an iconic design,and really sold the idea that it was designed by an Alien culture,Giger at his awesome best,hope to do it justice. Cheers Andy
  5. Since my admission back into the Xavier Ward for PTSD at St John of God Hospital in Nth Richmond Sydney NSW, the staff has ask if I could leave one of my model ships for display? But since a couple of these a going to form apart of display, “I said I do something a wee bit special which would link in with the work done here on the Xavier Ward and why the Xavier Ward is here in the first place.” So I selected a Daring Class Destroyer by OzMods in Resin 1/700. HMAS Vendetta was the only ship of its class in the RAN to see active service and fire it’s guns in anger. It seen active service with the US 7th Fleet on the gun line during the Vietnam War and from all accounts the yanks prefer her to use her more than other ship on the gun line due her firepower and accuracy. Between October 1969 to March 1970 she fired 13,295 rds at approximately 1,750 different targets. In fact She and her crew did so well on the gun line the 7th Fleet requested for another Daring Class Destroyer from RAN to replace the Vendetta instead of the more modern Charles F Adams DDG’s that the RAN had in service at the time. This model once completed will form a part of the Veterans Week displays done by the staff and members of the Xavier Ward for PTSD at St John of God Hospital in Nth Richmond NSW Australia.
  6. My entry will be a Kiwi Resin Models CT-4A from 1 FTS, RAAF Point Cook, Victoria. They were knick-named 'Plastic Parrots' in service due to the yellow/green delivery scheme. Later they were painted in an orange/white 'Fanta Can' scheme (one the kit box). This will be the scheme I will be building. It is a full resin kit with a Falcon vacform canopy. I will be doing one of the aircraft I flew in as a Navigator trainee back in November 1990. I managed a whole 7.6 hours in 4 flights, the last log entry includes a landing (for lunch) at the halfway point (Horsham, Victoria). I also have a Flying High Decals sheet that will allow me to do any of 3 from my logbook, now which one? A19-043, the first I flew in (with some stick time), or perhaps A19-056 with the longest flight time? I suppose I will decide at decalling time. To my surprise, I found a second (more basic) kit in the same very small box. This kit lacks a lot of interiors parts and a nose wheel and strut The kit supplied in the box is more detailed with cockpit detailing parts and separate flaps. It is missing one of the main gear legs and some plastic tube for the exhaust pipes which I could use from the other kit or make up from card and my spare tube stocks for the exhausts. Again I will decide when the time comes. The instructions a very basic, they include a list of parts and a note to use epoxy or superglue. No assembly sequence included. A painting guide for both schemes is included with some painting notes for the prop and gear legs Comparing the 2 you can see the dimensions of the 'bagged' CT-4A are off, too long and too skinny, the tailplane of oversized as well. The wings are correct though.
  7. Long before I was came on and lowered the tone, I think there was a GB for anything that wasn't injection molded plastic. I'm proposing Vol II, maybe the No PIMP GB that's No Injection Molded Plastic. Or to be more positive about it, wood, etch, white metal card, vac-form ... Having just started on a resin car in the 10th Anniversary GB, I've discovered a whole new world, and I was inspired and awed by what @pheonix did with wood and metal in the floatplane GB. Plus all the amazing vac-form work. And I do have to card buildings that I have no reason to build unless a GB comes along. What I'm thinking is.. Any model you like, so wiffy, sci-fi, fantasy even more conventional subjects, no holds barred in any medium you like but the injection molded element can't be more than 25%. I'm putting that in because in the my case, I'd replace the rainwater goods with AM injection molded and to allow for raiding the scrap box for similar fiddly details for others. Then standard GB rules apply and fun to be had along with new experiences; after all why should New Media always mean Twitter etc? Any takers/ thoughts etc? So far Me (I suppose I should) Exdraken Mottlemaster Philp Black Knight BritJet CliffB Jb65rams dud_gan_ainm bootneck zebra sleeperservice Robert Stuart Angus Tura Tom Probert Kallisti Romeo Alpha Yankee Jockney Gorby helios16v
  8. Hello, While working on my YF-105A (over on W.I.P.), I managed to misplace the canopy. After checking my two backup kits, only one kit had the canopy! As these kits are rather hard to come by (Revellogram F-105D) these days, I decided to explore my options. First I check around, looking for a vacuform canopy for the 1/72 F-105D. Nada, which is not surprising, considering the "ear flaps" and thinness of the original. Next, I looked for resin canopies. I found a really great one, but only in 1/32nd scale, and after all, we modelers must maintain some sense of propriety and not stray from The One True Scale! The one I found in that scale was however, a beauty, from the F-105B correction kit, from the former Meteor Productions, Inc or Cutting Edge F-105B correction kit, as sold by Mr Dave Klauss: This is a beautifully rendered masterpiece, and if I could buy one in my scale, I would! But, since I can't, I thought to study the work of the masters. Closer examination of the molder pieces (only the clear ones here, not trying to replicate the kit!) revealed that The molded bases or resin reservoirs, as they are in real life, are both slightly tapered toward the canopy parts, and the corners of the bases are cut off. This serves to aid in removal of the part from the mold after casting, and may save even a little resin, a concern more having to do with mass production, rather than the one-offs that I'm trying to do. Secondly, and hard to see in the front main canopy, are the small bits added between the base and the canopy to provide clearance and material for sawing the finished canopy from the base as shown better below: In my rough and tumble proof-of-concept effort effort here I have used a chunk of old pressboard for the base piece, but I have added some 10 thou card between the base and the part, for the afore-mentioned reasons. All these were glued together with RS watch cement, as CA glues have bad effects on some resins and some silicone rubber. In the background is a box made of Lego blocks, on part of a Lego base that I cut to the size needed. One can make the box from all sorts of things, but some kinds of plastic have the advantage that the silicone rubber won't stick to them. The large piece of scrap blue silicone is there only to hold the main canopy at the correct angle while the glue dries. You will note that in the first photo, additional material (denoted by the hatch lines) had been added when the master was made, to enable the cast part to be pulled straight out of the mold, while my first effort was left at an angle. Eventually my masters were stuck onto a thin layer of clay that provides the bottom of the box, as well as sealing the lower edges of the box, to avoid silicone leaking out of the mold. It should be noted that regular modelling clay won't do here, as the process requires sulfur free clay, or bad things happen! For this casting effort, I'll be using the Amazing Clear Cast clear resin, which my bottles are around 2 - 3 years old, and OoMoo25, which is brand new. Both of these were procured from Amazon. The Oomoo 25 was properly mixed 1:1, and poured into the mold box, with the masters in place. I took no special effort about bubbles because, I use pressure casting as a rule. For those interested, I have provided a link to my set-up, and would be happy to answer any questions about it: Ed's Poor Mans Pressure/Vacuum Casting Pot The silicone was poured into the mold bob and allowed to set under 55lbs pressure, for 75 minutes: Above right, after the Oomoo had set up, the masters were removed, and I was ready for a casting try. You will note the total absence of bubbles, due to the pressure casting. I then mixed up the resin and poured it into the mold, and allowed it to set under 55 lbs pressure for 48 hours, as per the resin directions. When that time was up, I attempted to de-mold the resin canopy pieces, and then ran into the problem: First off, the resin is kind of yellow. I believe this is due solely to the age of the bottles. Normally, resin has a shelf life of 3 - 6 months, maybe more with a little care, like nitrogen shot into the opened bottles, to keep oxygen and especially any moisture, from getting to the resin, even in a re-sealed bottle. Second, the parts were still tacky and flexible, not hard. This could also be due to the age of the resin, but it could be that perhaps I shout have pre-cured the silicone mold in the oven at 150 degrees or so for a few hours. This time, etc, vary by manufacturer and product. Since I had used this very resin a couple of years ago with Oomoo 30 (which only varies in setup time) I didn't consider this. Another factor is that the molding is very thin. Castings less that 1/8" or so are problematic for many resins, many also requiring a post cure period in the oven to achieve maximum strength and durability. I will investigate some of these issues in my next attempt. Since the resin was still soft, I managed to scratch this piece getting it out of the mold, and totally destroyed the windscreen part! I was however, encouraged by the fact the that the thin wall section was able to be reproduced by the pressure casting method, and the detail was all faithfully seen, and given the old resin, still had good clarity. After three days out of the mold, the casting is still hardening, but slowly. I have ordered another brand of clear resin, and some 3/8 clear acrylic sheet for the base part. I will take everything I have learned from this effort, and make a second attempt. Please stay tuned if interested, as it will take a few days for this all to be done, as well as more time in the mold and pre and/or post curing time. You will kindly note again, the absence of any bubbles, due to the pressure casting! I would dearly love to know the brand of the resin and silicone that Dave Klaus used for his pieces, if anyone out there happens to know, or any useful suggestions from others who have tried this process. I'm certain I will succeed, just not sure how long it will take! Back ASAP, Ed
  9. My first GB of the year and straight into it with a big resin monster, Fisher Model & Patterns 1/32nd Sea Fury! I’m a huge fan of these guy’s, they turn out some of the best resin models available anywhere! I happen came across this model by chance and at a price significantly cheaper than normal so I couldn’t resist. The box is packed full of very carefully wrapped bits of resin….warning the photos below are pure hardcore resin porn!!!!! The fuselage is a one piece hollow cast thing of beauty with the only mould line being on the bottom of the fuselage, easy to fix and remove. The wings are cast in 2 pieces with the main gear wells moulded as a separate piece as well. They were moulded like this to easily allow you to have the wings folded, they supply all the extra bits for this as well. I’ll probably end up building her with the wings folded to help save some space. The rest of the bits, all nicely casted, the rockets are a wee bit wrapped but I may end up replacing/scratching building some replacements, something to think about there. The prop even comes with a special jig to help align the blades correctly as well.......which I forgot to add into the photo when I took it!! The final bits are the cast metal gear, they need to be as there’s some weight in this model and the canopy. It’s super clear and some of the most finely/think cast clear resin I’ve ever seen. The supplied decals are very extensive but don’t cover the bird I want to build so I’ll be using most of the kit supplied decals and the extra I need will come for the Nova Scale set for RAN Sea Fury’s. The scheme I've chosen is for a RAN bird that operated off the HMAS Sydney in 1951 off Korea. To go with this build I bought Valiant Wings “The Hawker Sea Fury”, it’s full of great reference stuff I’ll need, especially the wing folding section. The only issue with the model was that the spinner was broken, but I fixed this already. It’s a big build for the start of the year but it’s a model I’ve really wanted to build for ages. Plus with luck I'm on holidays for a week so with my shift pattern I get to have 3 week at home, so plenty of build time for me for a change. The only scary part of the build will be the folding wings……for that I have to cut up the wings!
  10. While this is not a model, some may still find it of interest. How I went about casting clear resin replacement canopies for some current and future builds, using two different molding procedures: Clear Cast Resin Canopies A few pics of the finished product, except for final clean-up and painting: Thanks for looking, Ed
  11. Hello All, A new company called Rescue Models preparing some really interesting items. Many new resin accessories in 1:72, 1:144 and other scales too: https://www.facebook.com/rescuemodels/ Check out the renders, the products will be available soon (hopefully). Cheers, Peter
  12. Finished my self imposed one month posting and forum hiatus but still got this one done for April and my seventh for the year: A sweet but full of casting /moulding flaws kit from Anigrand. I scribed and riveted the surface, Alclad and Mr Color for a "Man in the High Castle" vibe. Decided that post war the victorious Luft '46 boys would have dumped the camo and gone full shiny. Scratched an exhaust and throttle body to distract from the strange oval hole Anigrand presented, then made up some aerials for radar/drone use and drove myself crazy gluing 0.1mm nickel rod. Decals from various Skys sheets and spares box. Fun was had and no styrene was unnecessarily hurt. WIP here:
  13. Say what? Well that's what it says on the box: Another one of those wacky end of the war flights of fancy that the German air industry became obsessed with. seeing as I have a workstation free, I thought its high time I did a resin kit so pulled this one out of the stash. Looks simple enough, there's plenty of prep to do on various moulding glitches etc (yup, resin dust is more toxic that a Justin Bieber song: face mask, spandex body stocking and total immersion of self in warm custard will be observed) First job is to run this through the ultrasonic cleaner and some Dawn dish soap. Noticed its missing its "nozzler" so some form of exhaust will need to be bodged crafted. Scheme wise, I'm thinking a touch of "The Man in the High Castle" if you get my drift... Cheers Anil
  14. A build from 9 years ago, a beautiful very limited production run kit cast by master modeler Matías Hagen from Argentina: The detail of the parts of this resin kit is outstanding and the instructions are very clear. The dedication on the making of the parts becomes evident when you see that the cushion, a separate part from the seat, has a teeny tiny arrow in the back pointing the right direction for its position, since the cushions also have some relief depicted. Although some components (fus sides, wheel pants) are keyed (they do have pins and correspondent tiny holes) I opted for sanding the fuselage mating surfaces carefully flat. The guiding pins are very useful though regarding the tail surfaces, wings and other pieces that need alignment. You get about 60 parts. No decals for this hot rod, since the original had no marks, which comes as a relief. Exquisite kit of a delightful plane, a true pleasure. Matias' blog: http://72topia.blogspot.com/ Matías painstakingly produces limited runs of unbelievably detailed kits in resin. He is working now on future releases, check it out.
  15. Hey my modelling guru's, I need some info on using resin upgrades, and I have not been able to find much via YT. Partly because I am in a new house and haven't been able to get my internet hooked up yet, so I have to buy load on my crappy phone, and its REALLY SLOW, plus, most of the videos are based on full resin kits in Gundam or something, not really the kind of upgrade kits we face. Anyway, I am pretty sure I got the cleaning resin part, using respirators when sanding/cutting (what ever happened to the old highschool shop class, where lost fingers were a thing of pride, we are too safety conscious these days!) Anyway, I have some resin conversions from CMK in 1/48. Wow, these bits are small, looks like antenna and or pitot tubes stuck to the big resin base. Any tricks to removing them without destroying the actual parts? They look very delicate, and there is ten tikes the amount of wasted resin, as the actual parts, is that normal. Then a have some resin nozzles in 48 (why is that called quarter scale? I thought 1/4 =quarter scale) anyway, I am not sure how to best remove those nozzles without damaging the nozzles themselves? Any links to videos would be great for later, just some pictures and explaining will do just fine too. Thanks in advance, as always, Anthony stalker6recon D'Agostino
  16. This is my rendition of the Planet Models' Republic XF-91 Thunderceptor. This may look kind of generic at first glance but, a closer look will show it has reverse taper wings with both the chord and camber being larger at the tip then the root, with the wheels folding into the tips and a V tail (they called it a "butter fly" tail but to me it looks like donkey ears, so I'll go with V). This is my third Planet Models kit and while I was very happy with the first 2 this one was a bit of a disappointment. The castings looked very goo with no flash, but as soon as I started sanding I was in pin hole hell. The fuselage was also about a 1/2" (1.25cm) too long according to the drawings in the Ginter book and the length specification. I fixed this by removing a section just aft of the wings. Other dimensions were close enough for me not to worry about them. The decals were excellent. So on to the pictures: This is how much I had to remove Next up is an AP-2H gunship using the Hasegawa P2V-7 and the Blackbird conversion set. Enjoy.
  17. Hello mates, Another side project to build along with the big Spitfire! I think it's time for another resin kit, which I'm really growing quite fond of, and what better choice than a Sea Fury? Probably the most beautiful propeller driven fighter aircraft ever made, if you ask me (which no one ever does). I know that @NAVY870 wasn't particularly fond of working on these beasties, but hopefully he'll stop by and make sure I do this properly. So, right, the kit - it's a resin model in God's scale from the Japanese company Aki Products. I ordered directly from the maker in Japan, and let's just say that it wasn't inexpensive. I think the money was well spent, as the resin casting is beautiful. Aki didn't spend much money on the box, though, as the following photo demonstrates. This is the way the box looked when I received it, and it didn't get this way from surviving a few tornado-driven roof blow-offs up in my loft. I love the legend on the end of the box - handmade indeed, I have no doubt about that. I was quite surprised to see that Aki did not use the typical resin casting pour blocks, but instead actually made resin "sprues" that contain the parts. This is quite clever, and I wish all resin kits were like this. Did you see there's a full engine? I hope I don't have to detail it like the big Merlin engine I just finished! Here are the fuselage halves and the tyres (by the way, I hate vinyl tyres so I might replace these): The interior of the wings have an incredible amount of detail, not only for the wheel wells but also the cannon bays and flaps (note that are also alignment pegs and holes, not often seen in resin kits. The fuselage halves feature these as well. The outer wing surfaces: Now, look really close and you'll see something you don't normally find in any kit, let alone 1:72. The flaps are moveable, with the metal hinge rod actually cast in place. Wow, it looks delicate so I better not play with it much. Sounds like something my mum would say. And on top of all that resin-y goodness, you also get to learn another language - if you want to follow the instructions anyway. Hmm, Hauker - must be a phonetic spelling. The kit stickers offer FAA and Iraqi schemes, typical of Sea Fury kits: However, I'll be choosing a scheme from Xtradecal sheet 72074. Which will it be? A couple of these jump out at me - first, the RCN scheme of Dark Grey 1-9 over Light Grey 1-13. But what are those colours? First I've ever heard of them. Second, the overall Oxford Blue RAN scheme. Nice and simple, yet elegant - plus, it's got roos in the roundels! Ah, decisions, decisions. I'll worry about that later. So that's my new side project. I hope I don't screw it up, since I blew up my retirement portfolio to acquire it. Cheers, Bill
  18. Products of Metallic Details is in stock: 1/144 Detailing set for Airbus A319 Set contains photoetch parts for detailing the engines, fold chassis, sensors, winglets, wipers of the aircraft. Recommended for Revell kit. Detailing set for Tu-144 Set contains photoetch parts for detailing the exterior of the aircraft. Recommended for ICM kit. Detailing set for Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner Set contains photoetch parts for detailing the exterior of the aircraft. Recommended for Zvezda kit. 1/48 Detailing set for I-185 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Ark Models Detailing set for Su-2 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Zvezda Detailing set for Po-2/U2 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: ICM Air intake grilles for Su-27 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Academy Detailing set for B-29 Resin & photo etched parts. 4 x Engine, 8 x Compressor exhaust, 2 x Landing gear bays. Recommended for kit: Revell/Monogram Detailing set for He-219 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Tamiya Detailing set for Yak-9 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Modelsvit Detailing set for Folland Gnat T.1 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Airfix Ejection Seat K-36 D/DM Resin & photo etched parts. The set has 2 seats with the possibility to assemble the chairs in variants K-36D and K-36DM. These seats are installed on the aircraft such as the Su-27, MiG-29, Tu-160 etc. Detailing set for Po-2 mod. LNB/VS Resin & photo etched parts. The set contains 2 dashboards for the pilot and navigator for the aircraft Po-2 modifications LNB (light night bomber)and VS (Soviet Air Force plane connection). In addition, the kit contains parts for assembly and device for forming 2 spoked wheels with tires (original size 700x120 mm). Detailing set for Pe-2 Photo etched parts. Recommended for Zvezda kit. Set contains parts for detailing the interior and exterior of the aircraft. Czech hedgehog Kit contains photoetched and resin parts to build 1 Czech hedgehog. The base with the bolts/nuts has a fixture to bend. The thickness of the metal - 0.3 mm. The diameter of the bolt head, nut - 0,86 mm. The bolt is threaded on its end. Detailing set for B-29, flaps Photo etched parts. Recommended for Revell/Monogram kit. Set contains parts for detailing exterior of the aircraft. 2 sheets - 270*126 mm, 1 sheet - 270*70 mm Nose cone for Su-27 The nose cone for model aircraft Su-27 by Academy. Designed for correcting the shape of the nose cone. Nose cone for MiG-23 The nose cone for model aircraft MiG-23 by Trumpeter. Designed for correcting the shape of the nose cone. 1/72 FuG-200 Photo etched parts. Detailing set for Su-27 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Zvezda Detailing set for T-50 PAK-FA Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Zvezda Detailing set for B-29 Resin & photo etched parts. 4 x Engine, 8x Compressor exhaust,2 x Landing gear bays. Recommended for kit: Academy Czech hedgehog Kit contains photoetched and resin parts to build 1 Czech hedgehog. 1/48 & 1/72 Machine gun sights Photo etched parts 1/35 Soviet tanks set 1 Photo etched parts. The universal set for Soviet tanks of the II World War (IS-1, IS-2, SU-100, ISU-152, T-34). Czech hedgehog Kit contains photoetched and resin parts to build 1 Czech hedgehog. The base with the bolts/nuts has a fixture to bend. The thickness of the metal - 0.3 mm. The diameter of the bolt head, nut - 0,86 mm. The bolt is threaded on its end. German grenades M39 and M24 Photo etched and resin parts. Kit contains 5 resin Eihandgranate M39, 5 resin Stielhandgranaten 24, 2 boxes to transport both types of grenades Soviet grenades F1 and RGD-5 Photo etched and resin parts. Kit contains 5 resin grenades F1, 5 resin grenades RGD-5, 4 resin capacity with UZRGM fuses, 2 boxes to transport both types of grenades (14*9 mm) Soon 1/48 B-24 Liberator. Engines Resin parts.4 x Engine Pratt & Whitney R-1830 Twin Wasp, 4 x Supercharger. Number of parts - 148. Recommended for Revell/Monogram kit.
  19. A little Dujin resin from a couple years ago: We modelers are truly grateful for the small/cottage kit industry. They release kits that are a joy, different, out-of-the-beaten-path and frankly delightful -and civil-. They do not posses or have access to all the resources that big industry has, so they do their best. Many times their standards are really high, and sometimes they are not really quite there. But without them, we may be condemned to a dull, repetitive endless stream of the same-old-same-old. So, to all of them, and in this case the late Monsieur Dujin, our gratitude, admiration, and support. Now, all that been said, please accompany me in another tongue-in-cheek kit adventure... The French not only created Film Noir, they also developed the Kit Noir "genre". This is a kind of kit surrounded by darkness and mystery, cast -as fate is indelibly cast- in resin, where the parts are not quite defined, as if immersed in a resin fog; their location is imprecise, and the instructions vague, arcane or nonexistent. Since French also invented Champagne, they like to give this kind of kit a "bubbly" feeling, full of little bubbles of gas; something that may have made them uplifting, but instead, when you start to fill-in all those pin holes and air bubbles, it feels more like a bad Champagne hangover. In any case, no one else would probably release those designs. So, you have to pull your sleeves up, and get at it. This little thing came in the mail courtesy of Keith Hudson, so to him my gratitude (and under-the-breath grunts). When I opened the package, I got the impression that this was a better Dujin kit than the ones I have seen or built...but it happened to be just partially so. Prop, main wheels, tail-wheel, and something indefinable that could be the landing gear legs, were so mismatched in the resin web that they merited the guillotine. The same device could have been used to separate some of the parts from the occasional resin tree. But once done and cleaned-up, most of the shapes were there, and if not perfect, seemingly pretty buildable. I got a spare seat. The prop was repaired, the tail-wheel and main wheels were replaced by Aeroclub items (from an ever-dwindling stock). The strange undefined elements will be replaced by wire, solder, or styrene rod, once their function is determined, if ever. Since Dujin kits do not have a parts' diagram, exploded view, or equivalent, you are left to enjoy the suspense. A length of wire, vacuum-formed windshields (two!) and decals are also included. Most likely the vac windshields will be replaced. I deem the decals, as usual with old Dujin kits, trash can fodder. I got new ones from Arctic Decals. The Fairey Tipsy Junior, built in Belgium by a Fairey subsidiary, was designed by (you would have never guessed) Mr. Tips. It falls outside the scope of my time-driven subject envelope, but we'll make an exception, since it is so cute. Oh le petit coochee-coochee!
  20. Happy New year all,Hope you had a good Christmas,my astonishingly wonderful wife got me this beauty. The presentation and casting are top notch. quality bit of kit Goes together straight out of the box The Semi-Transparent alien egg is a nice touch The only real drawback is that John Hurts estate didnt OK his likeness,but with a bit of lighting I think it will look OK.
  21. Ever had a "Nemesis" model or Kit? Ive had two,the He177 (Mpm and Airfix) and this huge resin kit I got about 300 years ago(Hyperbole much :),Late 90s),I think its been painted a least twice,and then re-primed and never finished,Well,Sod that for a game of soldiers,Am determined to finish it once and for all. * Wish me luck Im going in....................................................................... * Disclaimer \ may never get finished The protagonists The huge tree Im not sure but I think the sculptor,Simon Laurens may have realised too late he had the wrist blades on the wrong arm,so chucked in spare arms with the correct orientation,but it would decrease the dramatic effect so I stuck to the original plan Perhaps as a nod to the old Aurora kits the base has a snake and a spider on it,but I may cover with some foliage(oh,and a seperate frog Over the years its had a few knocks and bumps,and I will need to disguise the join with some Milliput work and foliage.While a bit rough and ready compared to the resin kits of today,its a true garage kit and not lacking in charm.
  22. The Westland Wessex trimotor passenger carrier of 1930 is such an attractive machine that caught my attention very early on my modeling endeavors. I started to gather material to do the usual scratchbuild and had managed to fill a pretty portly folder, when I saw that Rugrats released it as a resin kit with accessories. I understand that Rugrats released several batches, and this to me seems to be an early one, since the decal sheet carrier had aged possibly beyond redemption, as you can see in the accompanying images (no, I don't like to put the decal sheet against the window to fix it, it doesn't, really and after you apply it eventually yellows again). The kit portrays one of the variants the Wessex transport spawned, so bear that in mind when you look at your references. It is a great joy that a manufacturer will release these wonderful jewels of the Golden Age, and the effort should be saluted and applauded. They also offer a DH 66 Hercules, a DH 83 Fox Moth, a DH 84 Dragon, DH 90 Dragonfly, DH 86 Express and a DH 91 Albatross. I am familiar with all these planes, but with none of these kits, nevertheless I am happy that someone will make them available to us. Congratulations on that. The contents of the box, with reference material: Many parts are provided, but among the most practical for me: the spare for the transparencies and the inclusion of the resin master to vac more if anything bad happens: White metal parts, decent, but of slightly less quality than Aeroclub items: More white metal parts, some of them with a not so smooth surface: The engine pods and wheels, subtle wing detail: The ill decals. Wonder if the manufacturer may provide good ones: Of great printing quality, though, but as an all-encompassing carrier you have to individually trim. This may not be ideal for the window frames, for example: The fuselage is free of those silly resin bricks that some manufacturers attach to them, necessitating a jackhammer to separate the part from them: The seemingly unavoidable pinholes (very little of them, fortunately) -some of these are not pinholes, but the strut locations: One exhaust survived the de-molding, the other did not: More pinholes:
  23. I've rebuilt the Build Thread for this unusual subject (originally from an old What-If Groupbuild) with new picture links! Republic F-103A Thunderwarrior 5th FIS, Minot AFB, North Dakota 1969. Commander's aircraft for the 1969 Air Show season. This radical interceptor design was cancelled in 1959 after reaching the mockup stage, [what-if mode ON] but was reinstated in 1962 after the Cuban Missile Crisis as three Soviet long-range supersonic bombers were poised to enter service. Two full wings of Thunderwarriors were deployed at Minot AFB, ND and Elmendorf AFB, AK. [/what-if mode OFF] Despite extremely short range, the F-103 was a point-defence interceptor with combined turbo-ramjet propulsion, capable of Mach 3.7 up to 80,000ft and dash speed of up to Mach 5 at 100,000ft. Its peak rate of climb was 70,000ft/min in ramjet propulsion above Mach 2.5. The Thunderwarrior was armed with 6 AIM-47 radar-guided missiles and could track and kill supersonic targets at over 100nm range. (All that last bit is the true projected specs back in 1954!) Anigrand Craftswork 1/72 resin kit modified, with homemade decals. Alclad finish, Xtracrylix other colours. This was actually a fun build cos everything I tried worked!! Al
  24. *This model was finished during January, but I made myself to take pictures of it only now... The mechanic took a week to make (Tamiya + Vallejo colours). After 5 years I declare this model FINISHED! The history of this build starts at the Heritage Aviation Models Ltd stand at the Scale Model World Telford in 2014. I bought the most expensive kit to that day (£40) there and I was so excited that I started building it at our autumn traditional model club weekend right after the show. There, I made the biggest mistake (due to really bad advice) and dipped the whole wing in to the Surfacer. I DO NOT know why I did that, bud it gave me a really hard time with sanding and mostly recreating the corrugated iron on the leading edges of the wings (more in the building thread). Due to this, the Supermarine was very often put back in to the stash for rest and, mostly, to forgot the mistake I had made on the most expensive model (I was 17 then...). Year after year I tried to continue and some minor progress was always made, but nothing serious. But, the last September, I found that poor box in my stash again and I pushed myself to finish it once and for all. And it was a successful attempt. I DO love Spitfire, I really do. And this is a part of it´s story, which was my motivation. I would also like to create the line of 1/48 Spitfires starting with S.6b, "224", K5054, K5054 (blue), first productional Spit, Speed Spitfire and so on... I really enjoyed the last term of modelling on this model. I tried many new things (NMF surface, HGW rivets - which can not be seen there , some scratched parts...) and mainly - this build kicked me into the serious modelling again after a long time. My friend Pavel helepd me with the masks (roundels and letters/numbers and Dunlop decal) and also with the figure of the mechanic (he painted the face ). I also added the base of the Southampton Supermarine factory together with the ladder and the airscrew cone. I used all the photos which I could found, from all over the internet, available books (The Spitfire Bible helped me the most) and the model portrays the K2890 before the RAF Pageant at Hendon at 30th June 1934. There are the most photos of the K2890 in this state and also I like the number "2" on the fuselage. You can see one error in the photos which is the hanging aerial, which changed its position due to the transport in cold weather. I hope it will not spoil your impression much. I hope you'll like the first Spitfire and do not worry to ask anything related to this kit/airplane/photos, I will gladly help with anything. Cheers, Andrew S. And now the model only:
  25. 40 years since I crouched down in my Cinema seat thinking "Dont touch the bloody thing you Idiot" I can add Kane to my Alien collection,the head is a replacement with a better likeness ,scale is listed as 1/9th. Good wholesome modelling fun,though got a bit sweary when hollowing out for the lighting
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