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Found 148 results

  1. planning on completing this, will be oob but I may change the colourscheme if I find anything more interesting.
  2. With my other Spitfire build coming to an end it seemed an ideal opportunity to start another one! Here's my offering into this GB: It will be built OOB in the colours shown above on the box artwork - a Mk.1A Spitfire from 610 Squadron, based at Biggin Hill in July 1940.
  3. My third Triplane finished, the DR 1 next.
  4. I've just noticed this GB and have had a lonely helicopter kit in my stash for a while, so will be joining in with this one! It will probably be built OOB, due to the time constraints of a GB. I might be tempted to get some PE for it, but no guarantees... I'll take some photos tonight and get my WIP started soon.
  5. I don’t normally come over to this side of the house much but I do like the occasional AFV build, this marks a milestone in that it will be my first 1/35 AFV in around twenty five years. It will be largely OOB, but weathered a bit, no PE, no fiddling but I can’t stand the boring kit olive drab schemes, so either a Syrian or Ethiopian camo I think. First off a coat of desert yellow, the scheme I’m thinking of is desert yellow with green patches and black stripes.
  6. Having finished the T34 and almost completed the T55a I’m enjoying large scale armour so I’ve decided to start on my M3, as with the previous it will be largely oob but I’m going to do a Caunter scheme as I think it’s a wonderful looking camouflage. The kit has rubber band and link and length tracksThe rubber band tracks are quite good and could be stuck down to get realistic sag so I’m not entirely convinced that the individual tracks are all that much better, but I decided to use them. So I’ve started on the individual tracks, talk about fiddly, but I shall just chip away at them.
  7. This will be my entry into the GB: It will be built OOB, due to the time constraints of the GB - that should mean I have a fighting chance of getting it finished! The scheme I will use is the one shown above on the box. Hopefully work on this kit will get underway over the next few days.
  8. So this will be my entry: It will be another OOB build, in the scheme shown below: Work is not starting on this until at least one of my current builds gets finished! Hopefully that will coincide nicely with the start date for this GB!
  9. So I really wanted a Flogger in my collection. The Academy kit was pretty much all I could get my hands on but, knowing the issues with fit and low level of detail, I was hesitant. Ended up biting the bullet after all and steeled myself to expect very little from the build. As expected, the cockpit detail was sparse (and that's being generous) so I stuck a pilot in there after having raised the seat to a more reasonable height, and closed up the canopy. The intakes on both sides of the fuselage had the most horrible fit; these needed large amounts of putty and coarse-grit sanding to shape and smooth the step/join. The main landing gear proved a tricky affair as well, being complex but poorly described in the instructions. I consider it a minor accomplishment achieving good alignment so the model sits evenly on its gear. Being a cheap kit I saw no point to putting in any aftermarket - so this is a completely OOB build. Please excuse the overall grey scheme, it is rather plain. Thanks for looking
  10. My entry to the group build, my first piece of 1/35th armour in over thirty years It will be oob, no PE no aftermarket, but I’ll try to do a serious job of camo and weathering. Still haven’t entirely decided on the scheme yet but will probably be a winter one.
  11. I thought I’d post this as a separate WIP Seeing as how I failed miserably to make the STGB deadline but still wanting to show off the build. Special hobby 1/48 JU87A in Japanese markings hence the K which was used for all export aircraft. Pretty straightforward build, had to fettle the resin to get it in. Destroyed the supplied canopy so had to make a new one . Which brings us up to date ready for masking and the next camo colour.
  12. Italeri Sea Harrier FRS.1, XZ451 “VL”, 700A Flight FAA. Out of the Box with Master turned brass pitot and angle of attack sensor. Painted with Hataka and Vallejo acrylics. Built for the In The Navy group build. AW
  13. Here's my entry into this GB. Smer's 'Hi-Tech' Hawker Tempest which I believe is the old Heller/Airfix mould? Nothing Hi-Tech about it though, just etch for the radiator and instrument panel. Could had at least seat belts as well! Anyway, it's going to be OOB with no scratch-building or scribing of surfaces, just a gentle rub down of the raised areas. Since I bought an Xtradecal sheet to do a Butterworth Tempest II I'm going to go with a 56 Sqn subject, SN254/US*T, CO, Sqn leader M.P. Kilburn, Fassberg, late 1945. Details of the Squadron are here : http://www.historyofwar.org/air/units/RAF/56_wwII.html
  14. Eduard Mk VIII Spitfire, OOB. Painted with Mr Color Laquers and weathered with oils and pastels. Really nice kit,and just what i needed to get something finished. Peter Peter
  15. After reading so many bad words about Roden’s D.VII I just had to try for myself. Unfortunately I can concur, but although nothing fits the parts are wonderfully detailed and you get a beautiful spare engine and two spare propellors. You might notice the absence of rib bands: I made a firm decision on keeping it OOB, and those bands disintegrated. The machine is that of August Hartmann of Jasta 30, 1918. He was fortunate enough to get wounded very early in his service and thus survive the war. His colleagues later described their planes as orange, while British reports call them brown. I therefore mixed up a colour that you could describe as either without getting your eyesight questioned. One tip regarding construction: I’ve often seen people say about the outboard N-struts, that the front one is too short and the back too long. I found the front one to be correct: put it lying on the drawing (manual is in 1/72) with the frontal lower end in the correct position, then pivot it around that point until the upper two points are somewhat correct. Then just trim the excess. This should righten the otherwise forward-tilted upperwings into the correct alignment (glue the outboard struts first, then the wing, then the remaining struts - some of which will NOt fit). edit: Another free tip. If you plan to build any Roden D.VII with lozenge camoflague, do yourself a favour and buy an aftermarket set! The stuff is extremely brittle and the only way to make it stuck is to drench it in microsol to fuse it into the plastic (and then it gets *really* stuck - trust me, I first put the lower side camo on the upper side: fortunately Roden supplies enough for two and a half aircraft).
  16. Here's 3 models I did over on the 'Spitfire/Seafire' GB. The first Spit' is the new tool Airfix in early Mk I guise, OOB. A very pleasant build with no problems. The second is Airfix's older Mk I boxing from the 70's that I picked up at a charity shop for £2, complete except for decals. I used the parts and decals to represent the Mk IIa version from the new boxing. I would have done it the other way round but the new flat canopy would not fit the old kit. I did attempt to do some panel scribing but gave it up as a bad job, need to practice that one! Just drilled little holes for the engine cover fastenings, replacing the huge screw heads! Didn't do any detailing in the cockpit but did add the pilot which I don't normally do for an aircraft on the ground. He's waiting patiently for the off! The next kit is Sword's Seafire Mk IIc. A straightforward build, just needed more care at some points, namely cockpit interior parts and main wing. All the models were painted using Vallejo ModelAir paints, decals applied with 'Klear' acrylic polish and Vallejo Matt Varnish. Davey.
  17. I seem not to have put my name up for this but I'm in, especially with this Lockdown going on. Swords' Seafire IIc looks a nice kit, hopefully it'll build well. I did a Mk XV a while ago and the main wing gave trouble but got a reasonable result. Davey.
  18. This will be my next build for this GB, when I get the Hudson done! Can I take it that it is less than 25% started? Just two seats assembled and a bulkhead on the floor. Subject of this build.
  19. Hello, No sooner do I put my Special Hobby Tempest to bed, than the largest model box I have yet to see lands on my doorstep. My goal is a medium-weathered, semi-see through, Lancaster B Mk 1. I fully expect someone to come up with vinyl masks for R5868 at some point, and when they do, I shall strike! Failing that, I I'm sure Mal's Miracle Masks (or similar) can be induced to create something appropriate. I can do sprue shots if you *really* want but you all know what it looks like. Back to work for now. Emerson, Lake and Palmer to keep me sane...
  20. Here's my recently completed build of MPM's Lockheed PBO-1 Hudson, complete with RAF Dk.Green/Dk.Earth/Sky finish in US Navy markings. I did this for the 'In the Navy' GB. Here's the build thread. It didn't go without it's problems and looking at it now I'm still not happy with the fit of the separate nose section. Also the port tailfin and main oleo leg are a bit scewed (heavy landing!). The decals were commendably thin but broke up just looking at them! Had to use bits of the spare decals for repairs. Used Vallejo ModelAir paints, Johnsons Klear gloss hand brushed on and Vallejo Matt Varnish, thinned and airbrushed. Davey.
  21. When I finally get my JU-87 finished over on that STGB I'll be starting a couple of builds on here. I just recently obtained this kit and really fancy building it right now, not that I haven't got dozens of other projects I want to do as well! It seems a nice kit, but obviously having had experience of Special Hobby/AZ Models/Sword kits, it will need some care. I'm going to do the most colourful of the two Navy machines covered by the nice looking decal sheet, all of the subjects are in RAF standard day scheme of Dark Green over Dark Earth over Sky, but around 200 bound for the UK were quickly 'commandeered' as the US needed to build up their forces in the Pacific and elsewhere, so US markings were applied and away they went! There is an error in the kit which baffled me a bit after looking at photos of this machine in question on the internet, that being the choice of exhaust and air intake/scoops. The box art is even correct! But the instructions would have you fit the small vents on the side of the nascelles, and very short air intakes above and below the cowl, but this is incorrect. Fortunately the long type tube exhausts and the longer air scoops are included in the kit, so all's good! See you soon, Davey.
  22. Pretty late to the party, had a quiet 2019 modelling wise, ending with a major health scare a couple of weeks before Christmas, followed by major surgery which was successful, followed by a return to hospital because of an infection. (Deep breath!) So, while I've got a few months recovery, so no grandkids to childmind, and with SWMBO's permission , I'm gonna try and crack on with a few GB's these next few months. For this one I'm easing my way back into things with hopefully a nice straightforward build, Airfix's nice looking new tool Ju 87, in this case an R-2 from the Dog-Fight Double boxing paired with a Gloster Gladiator (which will get built sometime). I'm going to have a go at brush painting this, I've been using an airbrush since I got back into modelling a few years ago now, but I do that in the loft, and my wife may be a tad reluctant to let me up there for the time being while I recover from the op! I made a start on assembly, everything going together well enough. I like how Airfix have included two pilot's seats, one with belts and one without. Mine is going to be displayed on the ground so have used the one with the belts in place. Onwards and upwards! Davey.
  23. Recently finished for the Stuka STGB, it was built using the kit and markings from the 'Dogfight Double' boxing,the one with a Gloster Gladiator. Easy to put together, with nice cockpit detail, I liked the option of the pilots seat with belts moulded in or not. I decided to give 'Hairy Stick' painting a go, for the first time since I got back into the hobby a few years ago. XtraAcylic upper colours with Vallejo ModelAir below. 'Klear' brushed on (which I normally do with Airbrushed models), then brushed on Vallejo water thinned Matt Varnish. I'm pleased with the overall effect but need to practice a lot more, brush strokes visible galore! Had an accident with the decals, wasn't going to put on every stencil, but managed to tip half a bottle of Micro Sol over the sheet, apart from the main markings I could only rescue one of the warning triangles! The base is just one I made to occasionally take photo's of models on. Davey.
  24. Picked this little gem up at Hobby Lobby for almost nothing after coupon. I thought it would be a good Mojo restorer, and easy week build. I probably should've read some reviews first. I'm going to build it straight from the box - no matter what, dagummit! Anyway, on to the model; Cockpit done - OK maybe after using the cockpit decals, I'll add aftermarket. Also, WOW some of these look bad blown up 400% IP Started with the intakes. They fit together pretty well, and had minimal sink marks on the intakes. BUT, they have some substantial gaps when adding them to the airframe. I tried a couple different variations, but the winner seemed to be completing the intakes as subassemblies, then "worming" them into the airframe at the same time. When you pull out the pressure clamps, it's time for a re-evaluation of your model build choices. I was worried about the gaps between the intakes and the fuselage, so I epoxy puttied the inside and let cure. Then used perfect putty on the outside and cleaned with water. I also glued in the guides for the rear horizontal Stabs. The idea of them being adjustable is cool, but at some point during the build, glue or paint or acrylic sealer will leak in and set them in place. Better I decide on their position now. Before After - again with the mini woodworking clamps After a couple test-fits, I'm going to start mating the fuselage from the back. Fits like a glove To be fair, it mates well, just a bit of overlap from top to bottom - on both sides, but port side is better. Skipped the wings and went to the forward fuselage, For a couple reasons. 1. port wing seems to be much lower than starboard and I'll try to fix after fuselage is straight. 2.I was worried manipulating the kit and gluing the wings, world further warp how the wings fit and their angle. Time for some molding and casting while the weather is Cooperative. To be continued...
  25. Saw these two in my local model shop and couldn't resist the sheer nostalgia (don't worry about the Yak) a d seeing as I'm away from home an oob build with a basic toolkit was just about feasible and give me something to amuse myself after hours. Chassis assembled. Wheels done Some assembly That's the tractor done, I'll weather it when I get home. Now on to the 88mm.
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