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Found 10 results

  1. Just got this today as a wedding anniversary present. The book covers both the Mi-6 and the Mi-26 not just the real thing but in scale as well! Very happy with my new one stop reference book.
  2. Hey Folks, My 17th Mosquitocon in a row. The attendees/entries have been excellent the past couple of years. Below is a link to some of the models I have captured digitally. Let me know if you can download them alright. I have never entered anything myself, my Spitfire is not done. I hope it is ready for the local show this September. Enjoy
  3. Hello everyone. I thought the best way to start this series of occasional pieces is to review some of the basics that go into the image-making process, in terms of preparing good quality sources. We all want that final RFI to look its best, and sometimes just a few tweaks here and there can make all the difference. Cameras Nowadays of course, you can take perfectly acceptable general photos on your phone without investing in any heavy kit. It’s important to be aware however of certain limitations (dependent partly on your make of phone, and partly on the camera app you are using), particularly in areas such as depth-of-field. A standalone camera, or indeed a DSLR, will by their nature, give a greater range of controls, and/or quality of the final image. The following photographic items should be present on both a camera and (excluding depth-of-field) a decent smartphone. These will allow you to control the image much better than the results from relying on ‘auto’ settings. White balance. (WB) If you’ve ever taken a photo that came out too yellow or too blue, it’s usually because the white balance (WB) is set wrongly. Search for ‘white balance examples’ in Google images and you’ll get the idea immediately. You’ll generally see the control for this function referred to on menu items as ‘WB’. White balancing is simply a process of setting the camera to record the scene as accurately as possible, based on the colour temperature of the light source. This isn’t as complicated as it sounds. All light sources, such as the sun, a light bulb etc. peak in particular parts of the visible spectrum. You can see a simple representation of these values here: http://www.techradar.com/how-to/photography-video-capture/cameras/what-is-color-temperature-free-photography-cheat-sheet-1320923 On many apps and cameras you’ll see these different kinds of light represented by a graphical and easy-to-use symbol eg. a sun for bright daylight, a light bulb for tungsten light, and so forth. (Your manual should have a listing of all of those available to you). All you need to do is choose whichever one of these WB presets matches the light source you are shooting with. Although this isn’t as accurate as taking a metered light reading in Kelvins, it should produce acceptable results. It goes without saying that you shouldn’t shoot with mixed light sources. You’ll notice in some of the bench shots that I post, regions like shadows occasionally have a bluish cast: this is because I’m photographing under a tungsten light at the bench, and there’s still some daylight coming through the window. That’s ok for a WIP, you wouldn’t want that in an RFI… Exposure. Many cameras and smartphones automatically work out exposure by ‘averaging’ the scene, in order to produce an image that attempts to mimic what your eye sees. In certain circumstances however, such as shooting your model in a lighting booth, an ‘average’ of the scene means your bright booth may come out perfectly exposed, but your beautiful model is much darker than in the flesh, with all your beautifully accurate paint scheme and detailing now visually compromised. This is the same problem you find shooting a photo of somebody in front of a bright window - they come out as a silhouette. You need to expose for the subject you are interested in, not for the whole scene. If your camera or app allows, take a controlled exposure reading from the model itself, or if your camera/app doesn’t allow this, but you can just manually increase the exposure by a stop or two to let more light in, then you should achieve a more acceptable reproduction. Another effect of this procedure is that with the booth being potentially over-exposed, any shadows or folds in the surrounding material of it should be rendered less visible. Again, check the manual for your specific device/software as to where these exposure controls are located. Aperture and Depth-of-Field. This can also dramatically enhance your RFI shots. ‘Depth-of-Field’ is simply that region of the image that is in focus. Think of Hollywood cinematography in the 20s and 30s and all those close-ups of actresses’ faces - the out-of-focus background makes you focus more attentively on the subject. Smartphone users are limited by their hardware due to the small lenses used to construct cameraphones, but a decent camera or DSLR will enable you to change the aperture. The aperture is also sometimes referred to as the iris, and is measured in ‘f-stops’ (2.8, 5.6, and so forth). The smaller the number of an aperture, the smaller the depth of field, and the more light it lets in. So f11 will have far more in focus than f5.6, for example. Image formats. Most smartphones and many cameras will store your image in JPEG format. Whilst this lets you store lots of images, the downside is that the JPEG format is what’s known as a ‘lossy’ compression routine for images. If used over an over on the same image it will eventually start to compromise the quality of the image (think of the days of recording sound on audio cassettes – each generation of copying had more and more tape hiss). If you’ve no option but to use JPEG in the first instance, check that you have it set to store images in the highest possible quality (sometimes indicated as an ‘H’ i.e., high-quality, symbol). If your camera lets you use the RAW format, this is the more professional choice, but requires extra processing. Don’t panic over this if you only have JPEG as an option however – for posting work online, if you use the highest quality settings on the slider when saving your JPEG image, you can do this 2 or 3 times before you may start to see any problems occurring. Print media however are more unforgiving due to the higher resolutions involved. If you are going to be working in Photoshop, save your work in either TIFF or PSD formats, which do not incur any ‘lossy’ algorithms to be used when storing them. Remember though at the end, you’ll need to turn your image back into a JPEG or PNG file to post it on the web for the adoration of fellow modellers. Image size and Resolution. It is perhaps self-evident, but your initial photographs should be taken at the biggest frame size your camera allows. You can always make these smaller later, but give yourself the maximum scope and quality to start off with. Image size is measured in two ways, but nothing complicated. For screen-based work (web, video, film etc.) you always talk about image frame size in terms of pixels as the unit of measurement, e.g. an image is said to be ‘x’ pixels wide by ‘y’ pixels high. For image-printing, we use imperial/metric values to describe the size of the image (think of the traditional 6”x4”, 10”x8” values of photographic prints), but in addition, need to be aware of image Resolution. Resolution is also related to size, and sometimes confuses people. In simple terms it is simply the maximum amount of detail for a given area of the image, and is referred to for print media as ‘dpi’, or ‘dots-per-inch’. For example, a photo in a newspaper may be printed at 100dpi, and not look terribly good when looked at closely, whereas a glossy photograph in an art gallery may be at 1200dpi and look good even close-to. This is because the latter image has more detail than the former. For electronic screen-based media, like WWW, video and film, resolution is less important than getting the frame size correct, e.g. for an image to fill a widescreen video picture it has to be 1920x1080 pixels in size. For posting your images to the web therefore, you’ll always be going on frame size; if printing them out, you’ll also need to pay attention to resolution. Aspect ratio (AR) can be found as a setting on many cameras & cameraphones, especially where they shoot video as well as stills. Don’t panic! When you find yourself confronted with an ‘AR’ setting, this stands for ‘aspect ratio’, and quite simply describes the relationship of width-to-height of a given image. You’ve probably seen in your TV manual that your TV has a widescreen 16:9 option. 16:9 is the aspect ratio of your screen in this instance, 16 units wide for every 9 high (in the same way that older, squarer televisions were 4:3). Which one do you pick? Well if want to shoot widescreen video of course, choose 16:9. For general stills photography, depending on the values your camera allows, you might want to use 4:3 for a squarer image, e.g. for a tank, or 16:9 for a wider, landscape kind of shot to get the full span of a B-29s wings in the frame. Remember you can always crop an image in Photoshop later if it’s not exactly right. For the next instalment I'll look at compositing images of your model against actual photographs. Please feel free to add any feedback as this goes along Tony
  4. This month we have some great new releases from the Master Box range of plastic model kits this month covering such subjects as World War I, World War II and some fantasy too! The four new kits released this month are: A 1/35 British Infantry "Before The Attack" WWI Era model figures kit, some 1/35 "Skull Clan Death Angels" from the Master Box "Desert Battle" Series, a 1/35 WWII era French Soldier and Bicycle kit and finally a 1/35 scale kit of German Motorcyclist figures. For full details see our newsletter here.
  5. As a relaxing build I am currently building a 1\72 sea hurricane mk.II c. Can anybody give me some photos of the original interior. Thanks in advance, J
  6. Hi all. Welcome to my summary of the year. For me 2013 has been a funny year I was sick for the first 5 months but it give me plenty of time to model. Its been a great modelling year for me and I got to meet many people of here attending my first shows at Cosford and Telford WOW the model shows Rock as do the people I have had a lot of inspiration this year and modelled more that ever. VULCAN B2 XM650 Well I have been making many of these Dragon 1/200 Vulcan's Here we have XM650 XM605 Vulcan B2 again Dragon 1/200 made the same time as XM650 XH558 1992 Vulcan B2 This is another Dragon kit Made to represent XH558 In 1992 I changed some of the decals and made my own too to make the entrance door script and the old large dayglow orange ejector seat triangles. I also tried very hard to get her camo pattern as close to accurate as I could. VX777 AVRO 698 PROTOTYPE 2 AVRO VULCAN. Dragon 1/200th kit again but heavily modified wings, engines, tail, tailcone. decals from xtradecal. XA900 Vulcan B1 Extensively modified Dragon 1/200th Kit modified wings engines tail and tail cone. XH498 Vulcan B1a again and extensively modified Dragon 1/200th mainly wings and engines but the tail cone tip is different to the others. My old Dragon Vulcan B2 XH588 which I added new decals modified the tail etc and basically refinished. XJ783 Vulcan B2 This is another Dragon 1/200th with modded tail cone. XM599 PIT ROAD 1/144th Vulcan B2 in intermediate 60s/70s scheme Lovely kit this. XM606 Vulcan B2 70s scheme Dragon 1/200th kit again Can't get enough of it (noticed lol) XM575 Vulcan B2 Dragon 1/200th no mods HARRIER GR9 Revell 1/144th finished on New Years day 2013.. Lovely little kit. My ongoing upgrading and modding renaming renumbering Hornby A4s Most the paint is original Hornby but numbers/letters come from Foxx Transfers, Nameplates from Model Masters and Foxx again. Gloss from Humbrol rattle cans Minor paint variations by me. Mallard 4468 as preserved in the 60s onwards Sir Nigel Gresley 4498 As preserved in the 60s Bittern 4464 as preserved today Peregrine 4903 Mallard 60022 with Andrew K McCosh 60003 TORNADO Revell easy kit from the early 90s bought for my by my mum and dad. I decided to stick it together and paint it up one weekend for a quick bit of fun. Airfix DRAKEN Whiff repainted this year into a fictitious German scheme just for the hell of it. No story for this one I am afraid other than I had spare paint and decals I liked. SPITFIRE MKVb 1/32 Hobbyboss Must be the best model I have made and my dads Christmas present. Finished with base at 3.30 AM on Christmas Day with a pint ! T34 My first ever Tank This is the Armour fast OOB. HARRIER GR3 Matchbox. For the Very good fun Obsolete Kit GB The Jaguar still is not finished but might well be before the year is out. Cheers to Col Enzo and Mish with the GB it was great fun. XH535 Vulcan B2 GWH 1/144TH Kit on a QRA Pan dio Based on Waddington made for Precision Ice and Snow for the Telford IPMS show. That was a lot of fun. FOXBAT Hasgawa 1/72 made for Precision Ice and Snow at IPMS Telford and for the Obsolete Kit GB LANDROVER In the snow Diorama. This was My First ever Diorama and Made for the Review I did for Precision Ice and Snow and Also Displayed at Telford IPMS. Going to Telford and Cosford displaying the models and meeting people was the Highlight for me. This was the 2 Tables. Precision Ice and Snow Telford. and Cosford impromptu showing next to Canberra Kids Table. It has been a fantastic year for me. Ups and downs with health and family stuff but there has been more modelling than I have ever done. This post has shocked me to be honest and its great to look back and see what went one. I hope you like the photos Some of the Models here have not had their own RFI yet and some models are not featured here that I have made this year but this is the main highlights. Cheers to you all and have a very happy 2014 Happy New Year ! Rob
  7. A couple from my latest buld for a Facebook Groupbuild 'NATO' 20140330_EOS5D3_{C02}_Coventry_NATO Groupbuild_2014_M7B1704.jpg by Mr_Nemo1888, on Flickr Airfix Lockheed U-2 for NATO Groupbuild_1 by Mr_Nemo1888, on Flickr Thanks for looking, Simon
  8. Just a select few from my photos, I didn't take that many this year... to busy chatting and generally looking around. Some superb models on display, the Bugatti in the comp blew me away, as it did many, but it did that much I never got a photo! How silly............. Good to meet Spence for the first time, and meet up with the likes of Andy (General), Tigger, Iain & 32ndSIG lot, RichC, Tom, Flory Models, Ken and sorry if I have forgotten anyone else. I might get some more up in the week, I have a busy week ahead of me as per usual, so I hope you like this lot for the time being! In no particular order.. Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Untitled by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr
  9. FG Models Resin Scania Wheel sets Scania is biased in Sweden and started building trucks and buses in 1891. They have now become one of the main Truck manufactures in Europe becoming a firm favourite in fleets and with owner drivers. The latest Scania R series trucks are covered in 1:24 scale by both Revell and Italeri. FG Models have released 3 sets of wheels to enhance the front axle of both the Italeri and Revell kit. All of the sets come cast in a light Grey resin, and the detail on the parts is very good with no flaws in the casting, nor any air bubbles in the surface. Firstly I will look at set FG-7026 'Super Single' and is designed to fit the Italeri super single rubber tyres. Some operators fit their trucks with bigger wider tyres on the steering axle and this conversion will allow you to do the same in 1:24. The wheels are very well detailed, and the set contains 6 parts, 2 wheels, 2 hubs, and a pair of centre caps. There is a very high level of detail on the wheels with the 2 rings of nuts being very well cast. It would be a shame to fit the centre trim caps and hide the detail. The next set, FG-7025, is also Super Single style, but has a different style rim. The set has the same number of parts, and the same high level of detail on the parts. Again it is designed to fit the Italeri rubber tyre. The final set for the Scania is another resin wheel set for the front axle, this time the wheel will take a standard size Italeri rubber tyre. The detail on the kit is very high, and it is the correct style wheel for the Scania, as the plastic in the kit is generic type wheel. Again there are 6 parts in the set with the 2 wheels, hubs, and cosmetic centre caps. The Italeri rubber wheel is a very nice fit on the rim, as can be seen above. Conclusion These are very nice sets form FG models, with very well cast parts with high level of detail. Recommended parts! FG models have asked me to point you towards there E-bay site but asked me to mention their parts can be brought through other avenues such as Hobbyeasy.com, hlj.com, Mediamixhobby.com.sg Please mention Britmodeller when buying through FG models E-bay shop Review sample from Some detailed walkaround photos of Scania trucks can be seen here
  10. Hello Everyone Im used to seeing the Eastern Airways Saab 2000 fly into Norwich Airport, i have always wanted to build a model of this but have been unable to find a kit. I had forgotten about finding a kit for a while until i noticed a photo of a saab 2000 in British Airways livery, they have leased one of Eastern, i am a huge sucker for anything BA. As a result i have found the urge o find one again, so does any one know of a saab 2000 kit on the market, resin, vac or injection? Thanks Bradley
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