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  1. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Sabrekits Henschel Hs-126, built from the box. Painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics, photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. My buying impulse for this kit was the marking option for an aircraft photographed in Austria (my homecountry), at the end of the war. According to the paint instructions, this aircraft had black undersides and belonged to FFS(B)11, a blind-flying school; according to my research, FFS(B)11 never existed. I came across an online photograph which does not support the 'black undersides': https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:German_utility_aircraft_in_Austria_1945.jpg The simplified type of markings rather suggest this airplane served with one of the Nachtschlachtgruppen (night harrassment units) or a close-range recce squadron. All the confusion aside, the Sabrekits model is difficult to assemble and has a few surface irregularities, making for a troublesome build. There are no positive location tabs, just shallow depressions, where the struts are supposed to go. The landing gear legs are butt-joined to the fuselage, the instrument panel is just a flat piece of plastic, and while some of the struts were too long, others were too short. I was reminded of short-run-kits from 20 years ago. I have not seen the new 1/72 Brengun kit of this type, but I heard rumours that fellow Britmodeller @Redboost is working on it. It would be interesting to hear his opinion to compare both offerings. Thank you for your interest in this topic. Best greetings from Vienna! Roman
  2. I never saw a conversion chart for RLM/Revell colours, so I´m publishing one I made in 2015 with hopes of helping those who also paint with Revell. It can be used both with the acrylics and the enamels. The most recent colour added was 361 Satin Olive Green. RLM 01 (Silver) Revell Metallic 90 (Silver). RLM 02 (Grey) Revell Matt 45 (Light Olive). RLM 04 (Yellow) Revell Matt 15 (Yellow). RLM 21 (White) Revell Matt 05 (White). RLM 22 (Black) Revell Matt 08 (Black). RLM 23 (Red) Revell Matt 36 (Carmine Red). RLM 24 (Blue) Revell Matt 56 (Blue). RLM 25 (Light Green) Revell Matt 48 (Sea Green). RLM 65 (Light Blue) Revell Matt 49 (Light Blue). RLM 66 (Dark Grey) Revell Matt 77 (Dust Grey). RLM 70 (Black Green) Revell Matt 40 (Black Green). RLM 71 (Dark Green) Revell Matt 39 (Dark Green). RLM 72 (Green) Revell Matt 39 + Revell Matt 15. RLM 73 (Green) Revell Matt 47 + Revell Matt 45. RLM 74 (Green Grey) Revell Matt 69 (Granite Grey). RLM 75 (Violet Grey) Revell Matt 47 (Mouse Grey). RLM 76 (Light Blue Grey) Revell Matt 49 (90%) + Revell Matt 05 (10%). RLM 77 (Light Grey) Revell Matt 77 (Light Grey). RLM 78 (Light Blue) Revell Matt 49 (Light Blue). RLM 79 (Sand Yellow) Revell Matt 17 (Sand Brown). RLM 80 (Olive Green) Revell Satin 361 (Olive Green). RLM 81 (Brown Violet) Revell Matt 46 (NATO Olive). RLM 82 (Light Green) Revell Matt 65 (Bronze Green). RLM 83 (Dark Green) Revell Matt 68 (RAF Green). RLM 84 (Green Blue) Revell Matt 59 (Duck Egg Blue/RAF Sky).
  3. I am going to start this new project I got Eduard PE seatbelts and a friend of mine gave me Brass antennas for the natchjager variant, but I am still wondering which camo I will be using, I decided I want to go with the green scribbles over the spot camo, but I love how the black underside looks on night fighter aircraft of this era, I haven't found any information about the aircraft represented on the artbox, so maybe I will be taking some artistic liberties and mix both options provided in the instructions. Basically I am thinking of doing the first scheme, but with the underside black camo of the second.
  4. I like the music of Cole Porter, and one day maybe a week ago the words "Night and day..." lead in my mind to a Group Build idea. But to the point: Night and Day GB. The Allied combined bombardment campaign to defeat the Axis and its industrial heart and logistic veins. Why not bleed their air force white too, conveniently along the way. Achieve this with British by night, Americans by day, hammering the enemy Night and Day. Adding Little Friends as they came along, from the early Spitfire escort reaching the Netherlands to Mustangs all the way to Berlin and back. Not forgetting the photo recon Mosquitos, Lightnings and Spitfires that brought back valuable information about the effects of the bombing. Assembly ships and Pathfinders too, of course. And the Dambusters! On the other side of the table, Jagdwaffe, with anything they ever could send up in the air to defend Das Reich. Night and Day. The wild boars and the tame ones. Rocket firing dayfighters to break them up and ones with antitank guns to do havoc in a tight combat box formation. The Schräge Musik, btw, that's jazz. A lot of metal in the air too, known as the notorious Flak, so the German AAA and ground radar equipment are eligible if that's your interest. And the night fighters chasing other night fighters, the choices are endless...less...less... So how'd this sound for 2022? 1) V-P the host 2) MarkSH 3) Col. the co-host 4) Antoine 5) Corsairfoxfouruncle 6) Rabbit Leader 7) Arniec 8. trickyrich 9) Ol' Scrapiron 10) CliffB 11) Silenoz 12) Wez 13) TEMPESTMK5 14) Mottlemaster 15) Hockeyboy76 16) JOCKNEY 17) specky 18) Peter Lloyd 19) Valkyrie 20) Muddyf 21) Redstaff 22) BerndM 23) PhantomBigStu 24) Paul821 25) alt-92 26) franky boy 27) Greg Destec 28) modelling minion 29) Tim R-T-C 30) Stefan Buysse ... thank you all! 31) Work In Progress 32) Davey Gair 33) wimbledon99 34) ...
  5. Hallo you all See this drawings! I would like to discuss with you the camouflage on German aircraft. Specially after 1941 to 1945. This time, the aircrafts had the cockpit painted in RLM 66. The camouflage on the outer surfaces, wings and fuselage and rudders should be in our focus. I found some drawings about the 109 G version. Without date. The same for the 262 even without date. What is interesting: The edges of the color of the wing between RLM 75 and 74 (valid for the RLM 80 range too) should have a 100mm zigzag pattern. That means, there is no straight exact line at all. Lacerated and zigzag. In a scale of 1/48 it means a 2mm width. First question: Are you aware of this? Second question, if yes, how do you achieve a proper result? Next theme: Stenciling on a aircraft with operational camouflage. I do not see on photos aircrafts like this a proper stenciling pattern. Most stencils are omitted. Exception fuel markings and electric markings. Well, I would like to know your findings and your handling with this matter. Happy modelling
  6. This is my second build of this year and also of an A & A Models kit! As with the Me109T, this is a short run kit, in this case of the Messerschmitt Me209V-4 (1/48). This aircraft was an adaptation of the Me209V-1 airspeed record breaker, an idea of Messerschmitts' to find an eventual successor to the Me109. This aircraft of course failed in that respect but is well worth a place in any Luftwaffe collection. The kit is very cleanly moulded and comes with a small fret of photo etch, canopy masks both inside and out plus wheel masks. A small decal sheet for two markings options and a glossy, well presented instruction manual. I built this kit O.O.B adding a few wires inside the cockpit, which is very well detailed. The instrument panel was an injection moulded with detail in relief, with a decal overlay which with a coat of Micro Set which gave a well detailed panel. I must add here I was a little unsure of the decals being matt finished with no apparent clear overlay but my fear subsided when I used them, full marks to A&A. A little filler was needed but it was a nice easy build ( I look forward to A&A's forthcoming Me209V-1). The machine modelled was, of course black 14, with the wonderful snake decoration (couldn't resist}. A&A call out for the machine to be RLM02 which is probably correct but just to be different I decided to finish it in RLM63 the difference between these colours is actually minimal, at least in AK's Real Colours paint range. The only photo I have found of this aircraft shows what maybe a mottle effect on the surface finish. Whether this is just the poor quality of the photograph or the true finish, appears not to be known. My answer was to apply some mottling using the base colour to give a similar impression to the photo, I leave you to judge as to its effectiveness. This aircraft was test flown at Messerschmitt's factory airfield at Augsburg in 1939:- It appears my mottling is too subtle to show up very well on my photos but it is there - honest Cheers Andy
  7. Hi, guys... This is my last kit for 2020, and it's a refurbishment of an old favourite. I bought this kit in 1990, although I used an article in a modelling magazine from 1985 to make some basic improvements at the time. It has been repainted twice since then, this being the third and hopefully, the last. Perhaps the modelling gods will give us a more up to date kit in the coming years. Anyway, I stripped off the old camouflage and markings, right back tothe gaudy coloured plastic which this company became renowned for. I wanted to make the later version, the Do18G with the cannon installed in the rear fuselage turret. Matchbox gave the option for making this variant, but the turret left an awful lot to be desired, it having been made to fit the same space as the MG position, rather than having been provided with a fairing so as to accommodate a better representation of this assembly. I also added on various bits and pieces from the spares box and acquired a Kora beaching carriage to finish off the revamped look. So, to business... I had long-since filled in the trenches of the upperwing and engine cowling panels and had no intention to rescribe, either then back in the day or now, although I did leave the underside panel lines intact... no, I don't know why either. I removed the seats in the cockpit, gave them a passing coat of paint and attached some makeshift, homemade seat belts. I slightly and carefully widened both openings for the weapons, the nose MG position being furnished this time round with the insert from the Italeri He111 dorsal MG position, which also includes an integral seat. The MG mount was made from fuse wire. In the first image below, the internals of the aft turret have been removed from a Revell Fw200C-4 Condor kit, including the cannon, and the transparent turret can be seen test-fitted prior to building up the sides of the fairing. So here, the fairing to the turret has been made. This was done by using a small part of two upperwing engine nacelles - the rounded rear tip - from an Italeri Me323 kit, inserted under either side of the turret overlap, and padded out with filler, which would later be sanded smooth. Strake lines for the upper fuselage were made from stretched sprue. You can see that both the fuselage and to the left, the wing, have now received an undercoat of pale grey in preparation for starting the camouflage. Once happy with the turret fairing, I added in two upperwing exhaust outlets for the front engine; the outlets for the rear engine had been made years back by hollowing out six circular openings either side of the rear set of cowling intakes; when using the magazine article all those years ago, it suggested the two poorly moulded intakes, sitting one in front of the other, should be removed and four put in instead, but I have since learned that not all versions had four intakes in this position, therefore later in the build, I was obliged to remove the front two as they didn't properly represent my chosed variant. The camouflage greens are from the Humbrol Luftwaffe-specific range, although I'm not a fan of the darker shade straight out of the tin, and always mute it somewhat by mixing it with the lighter shade. I thinned but did not replace the flap/aileron attachment pins. Once the paint scheme was complete, a couple of coats of floor polish as varnish were applied and once dry, the markings went on and varnish applied again before a blackwash was put on and left to dry slightly before the excess was removed. This gives a slightly weary look which I quite like. Again, the aft turret transparency was test-fitted and a DF loop was made from fuse wire and sometime thereafter attached between the turret and the fin leading edge. The canopy was provided from the relevant Falcon vacuform set and any small misalignments were carefully tidied up. Some time thereafter a few coats of a homemade satin mix were applied and this give the model a lovely dull sheen; all of the small antennae were then re-attached, and the main struts supporting the wing were re-rigged using elasticated thread. The propellor blades were also sourced from the previously-mentioned Fw200 kit as they were more slender, and a pointed spinned was fitted to the rear propellor. The one you see will have to suffice until I can get a better offering that will cover the exposed area between the propellor backplate and the spinner. The small rudders under the fuselage were also re-attached at this time. For a little bit of added interest, two small bombs were used from the spares box - previously part of an old Airfix Ju87 - and the RATO unitrs were taken from a Dragon Ar234 jet bomber kit. So, now to the beaching carriage... a nice item from Kora, made from resin, but sadly, no instructions as to where the pieces should go and only a sketch of the carriage once built, was provided. I had to consult the internet to see how things should go together, and another modeller provided the basis of something approaching correct in his build article. In real life, I imagine there was sifficient weight ahead of the centre of gravity to ensure this aircraft did not tilt backwards and off the end of the carriage, as there was no rear support for its rear fuselage; in the world of the modeller, however, the kit is too tail-heavy so I attached a small transparent support to the back of the carriage where it sits discreetly and largely unseen. Sadly, I also have to rely on a piece of Blue Tac under the small front wheel of the carraige to ensure the model stays put on it. If I had realised this was going to be a problem, I would have inserted some type of weight into the upper fuselage opening prior to attaching the wing and sponson, and pushing it as far forward behind the cockpit bulkhead as possible to ensure the kit was front-heavy. Hindsight is a great thing, I suppose... And finally, two photos to finish, showing the completed model. All markings were sourced from my spare transfers box with the exception of the unit emblem, which was printed onto white-backed transfer paper, sealed using Halford's car laquer and then water-slid into position like and other waterslide transfer. Due to the amount of laquer I apply, the transfer is sometimes a little reluctant to move from the backing paper, so this is a delicate job and patience must take precedence. Also remember your face and eye covers when using the laquer in a well-ventilated area. So that's us done... this was an enjoyable kit to revamp and it represents two weeks' work. I hope you like the end result as much as I do. Keep safe and here's hoping 2021 will be a better year for all. Regards, Paul
  8. This is my first Bf 109 in the bigger scales in a long time. I used to have two Trumpeter 109Es and a 21st Century Toys 109G-14, but neither of them reached the decalling session. Here are the photos of my first successful 109 in 1:32. Decals were of "meh" quality, because the white isn't opaque enough to cover the mottling.
  9. This is representation of Erla-built Bf 109G-14 "Black 13" from15./JG5 at Kjevik, Norway in 1945. All A.M.U.R. Reaver sets, such as spinner & airscrew, cowling and oil cooler fairing with radiator mesh were used. The plane had late-war finish with several shades of RLM76 on lower surfaces and 75/82 on top.
  10. Good morning everyone, hope you are all doing well! Rather than waffling on too much about what went well and what didn't with this model I will just post a few photos and a rundown of the build. So, this is another one of those kits that i've had for a few years now. Im pretty sure alongside Eduard's 1/48th Spitfire Mk.IX this was one of the first kits I build and used an airbrush on when I was around 16; I actually had this model built somewhat broken in a box so dug it out to compare as im 21 now so its been 5 years. I have to say, even though this kit can be a bit tricky to fit together in some places its an amazing kit and so even the one I build when I was 16 holds up okay thanks to Eduard opposed to my lack of modelling skills starting out. Lets just say if it was an Italeri kit I decided to go for first, it probably wouldn't have still been kept. I honestly loved every stage of this build, im not a huge fan of photo etch sometimes and have to be in the right mood to build a kit with PE parts but this didn't put me off this time as I knew I wanted to build the kit in my chosen scheme and also wanted to test a couple of new airbrushes even though there wasn't all that much mottling on this model its the first time i've used an airbrush freehand for the camouflage which is really fun. Now this kit is done, im hoping to move onto Tamiya's F15C before making a start on some trickier jets. I hope you all have a great christmas and a happy new year! Thanks, Ryan
  11. Just finished assembling Tornado IDS (Revell 1/144), mostly OOB but without the "white tiger" scheme, don´t like that one at all, so I used the Norm 87D scheme that it kept for a while when transferred from the Marinenflieger to the Luftwaffe. Only complication was issuing the Squadron logo, the tiny tiger, which I issued with old decals and some freehand painting. Nice kit, camo was the most difficult part as it requires lots of masking/unmasking/re-marking. I changed the pitot tube for a more realistic metal one, and added dorsal position light and landing lights inside the wheel well doors. The only thing I would appreciate from the kit, is providing some plugs for the big gaps where the wings fit into the fuselage when retracting, this is the price to pay for moving wings, which are worthless if you are going to use the underwing ordnance anyway. The rest, is quite nice and accurate. Marco
  12. Starting this tiny Tornado IDS, Revell 1/144. As other recent Revell kits in this scale, this one is beautiful, with enough parts to assemble a very decent cockpit, wheel wells and landing gear, fine negative scribing, moving elevators, swinging wings (although choosing that option, means not using any underwing ordnance...). Two marking options, I don´t really like the Tigermeet scheme, but I´ll assemble that same Tornado (43+46) in the Norm 87D scheme used when transferred from the Marinenflieger to the Luftwaffe (no Tiger stripes this time). I started with the cockpit, folllowing instructions. I used Light Gull Gray for interior color (real ones were Dark Gull gray, but compensating for scale effect). Decals for the instrument panels and consoles are really nice, some retouches here and there, corrected the ejection seats headrest, seat belts added, and the cockpit nice, This time, lot of the cockpit will be seen after the canopy gets installed. I thought necessary adding some detail to the jet exhausts. Notice that as provided in the kit (right exhaust), they are shallow and devoid of detail. I bored them open (left exhaust) And added some detail to make them more intersting. And started masking wings and elevators, will paint these before starting assembling, easier. Marco
  13. Better late than never! NATO forces are being bolstered by forward deployed recon birds in W. Germany, based out of Bremgarten Air Base near Freiburg. Due to the fairly limited time, this will be a largely OoB build. At this time I will likely be building RF-4E 35+23.
  14. Possibly preaching to the converted but just came across the following Facebook page that has lots of colourised images of Luftwaffe aircraft and may be of some use. www.facebook.com/Luftwaffeincolour/photos/ Regards Colin.
  15. Hallo Here are some pictures of Luftwaffe equipment from WW2. It may be interesting for you, if you want to build any model cockpit more accurate. Happy modelling
  16. I like this tiny 1/144 kits as I take them as a stress-reduction therapy between bigger projects. I wanted to give it a try to a couple Luftwaffe jets, the first one being this, the F-104G from Revell. The kit offers two options for markings, I will build the 26+53 from WTB61 (Technical Test Facility 61) at Manching, 1991. The kit provides a decent cockpit, main wheel well, workable front wheel well, nice landing gear, and jet engine exhaust, scribing is really nice. Only thing I would have expected is an option for open canopy, only closed option is available. Fuselage is split in left/front and front/rear halves. The ejection seat has enough resemblance to the real one, just adding couple seatbelts and it will be good under the closed canopy. The fitting between front-rear fuselage gave me issues, not that it was a big gap, but where it was located. Tamiya gray putty and patient sanding solved the issue. I don´t like fitting the main landing gear at this stage, but there is no other option. Detail inside the front wheel well is completely lacking, I had to issue a "floor" for the front half of the wheel well (the rear will not be visible under the landing gear structure). The kit provides a decal for the instrument panel, looks nice for the scale. Not much will be noticeable at the end anyway. The cockpit had a crack where it joined the sprue, cleaned and sanded as much as I could, will try to hide some more when I paint the cockpit frame. Can´t imagine what is the purpose for that neat gap below the tails of the fuel tanks. All the 4 of them have the same issue. Filled them with putty. And here I am, about to start painting this tiny Starfighter. Marco
  17. Good evening guys, I hope everyone is well! I decided to share the photos of the build I finished today, which as the title suggests is Tamiya's Bf-109 E-4/7 Tropical, 8 / JG 27 in 1/48th scale. I attempted to do a work in progress section for this build, however forgot to upload the photos until I had just finished painting the model and so it was a bit of a short lived work in progress with only one update before completion. However as mentioned in the work in progress update, I chose to build this after watching a youtuber by the name of Keeto who was using fillable acrylic pens to do mottling work which I found pretty interesting, he made it look quite straight forward, and until I build up the courage to re- try my hand at Luftwaffe mottling, I thought this could be my substitute. I got the Luftwaffe paint set by AK interactive to test out their paints as I had never bought one of their sets prior to this, and was really impressed with them. I felt their colours looked pretty accurate to me and the paint sprayed really nicely and also flowed out the pen well after a bit of testing with thinners. The only downside for me with this approach to mottling is that it looks too well painted, rather than the usual misty outline on usual mottling, but I still kind of like this even though its not totally accurate. Its safe to say, I think I will continue to use these pens, especially being that they're around £3 or so on amazon, I've got my eye on a Japanese scheme to use with the pen next, I think its a Ki-47? I loved the build, I was making it to fill in the gaps between making my Eurofighter Typhoon, however it took over pretty quickly and now the Typhoon has been put aside as and when I feel like working on it. It was really refreshing to go back to a Tamiya kit after working on some models that have been eating away at my time. Due to the model being a bit of a test for the Acrylic pen, I thought i'd try a few different things to get a different finish, this being trying to get an interesting weathered effect. I feel it came out alright but next time, i'd be a bit more refrained rather than taking a piece of sponge and splatting away at the painted model, you can see in the photos it didn't go completely to plan. The only problem I had which was a big mistake on my part was after I put an enamel wash over the kit. I decided to use Vallejo's varnishes inbetween paint layers rather than Klear which is my usual go to and I think this might have been what caused the problem... Once the wash had dried after about 10 minutes or so, I got an old rag out to start rubbing the excess off and was having no luck, I had ran out of my enamel thinners and haven't bothered buying any more since as I never usually have an issue with the washes but started worrying, it looked a complete mess. I came on here for previous articles on alternatives to get the wash off and hoping that I wouldn't have to drive into town to go to my local hobby store. Luckily I read that I could use white spirit to try and fix it; it kind of did the trick but ate away at some of the varnish and subsequently a bit of the paint underneath which is why there are some pretty heavy stains on the model. Either way, I think the White Spirit saved the model from being a total disaster even with a few messy marks left behind. I think, with my next paycheck the first thing im gonna do is buy some new varnishes (let me know if anyone has what they feel is the best) as I always seem to have issues with Vallejo's. I hope you all enjoy, let me know on any fixes to the issues I had if you like or any criticism, its all appriciated, im still working on my finishing with models. Thanks everyone, stay safe! Ryan
  18. This is my second build from the Eduard Royal Boxing of the Bf109F 1/48th, this time an F-2. Virtually built O.O.B. with some extra detailing in the cockpit. I chose this particular machine for its colour scheme, originally delivered in standard RLM 74/75/76 it was overpainted in the field with mottle consisting of RLM 02/70/79. Model was painted using AK True Colours, decals from kit, Black 12 came from Tamiya Fw190D-9 kit. The name under cockpit was home printed, yellow outline painted freehand. I used Mig Lucky matt varnish for final coat, not too sure of this stuff took about three coats and I wasn't too happy with the final result seems to be very uneven finish! This machine is a Bf109F-2 flown by Uffz. Peter Bremer, 2./JG54, Russia, Autumn 1941:- You have to admit the yellow theatre markings and striped pitot certainly add to the 'Low Viz' idea!!!!!!!! Cheers Andy
  19. I'm new to late war Luftwaffe colors. I'm working on a 1/72 FW-190A-8 with a late war scheme (RLM81/82/76). I am using my Hataka (Lacquer) Late war Luftwaffe set and this is the result of the RLM 81 and 82: Of course shooting it was maddening, because I couldn't quite get the colors right, but this is fairly close. In reality the green and the violet are a little more vivid. As near as I can tell, the RLM 82 green is about right, but the RLM 81 is really a puzzle to me. I seem to remember seeing paintings of green and violet German A/C (Me-262s), but most often the RLM 81 is more of a brown than a violet. It just seems awfully purple to me, but I'm new to this so i could be wrong. Eduard's instructions for late war FW-190A's look about the same for the Violet, but a little darker for the RLM 82, but in general it seems like my paint would be authentic. The reviewer on "the modelling news" seemed to think that the Hataka Acrylic version of RLM 81 was a little vivid, but felt it was in the realm of possibility. Any thoughts?
  20. German Air Force in WWII Development and requirements • The conditions for planning an air force were not good. There was no distinct plan for war. No strategic plan, just a tactic plan for 1939. All campaigns with exception Poland and France were planned at short notice. According to the current situation, campaigns that were not sheduled and unintended, but set on fire by Italy, or because the conditions in one country changed, like in Great Britain: Duke of Windsor and Chamberlain got lost. And so it made the Battle of Britain necessary, or the grain deliveries to continental Europe were suddenly stopped in May 1941 by US emergency laws, and triggered the Russian campaign immediately. The Russian story in German warfare has to be seen under the condition of 1920 events, when Russia wanted to invade Germany after Poland and in 1923 a revolutionary try once more. • An interesting aspect is the design of long range aircrafts. As Fw 200 and Ju 86 as well as the He 116 and Ju 90. Their origin was the northern silk road to Japan. This was aborted due to the outbreak of war. • So it happened that e.g. some types that no longer seemed necessary were taken out of production and jigs destroyed. After the Battle of Britain Hs 123, Bf 110 were taken out of production. Exactly these types were missing in large numbers in Russia afterwards. Production was restarted on one type Bf 110. • Many types could only be developed specifically depending on the current situation. At the end of development, however, a variant was often already absurd. • In this way, demands were maintained even though they were already outdated. The ability to dive was dogma since the success of the Stuka. • It was also absurd that no attention was paid to the real situation at the airfields of intervention. Missing hangar space at advanced airfields in Russia for example could not give a chance for maintenance of a He 177. Or other advanced technology, never suited for the conditions in Russia. • New technologies, such as flying wings from Horton and jet engines, then lacked capacities because they generally capacities lost in planning chaos and manufacturing chaos. • New types were introduced as intercepter, with some or no success: Ta 152, Me 163, He 162, He 219. Today we can just think about such a dark time and be greatful to live in amore peacful time. In contrast, the relatively constant doctrine of aerial warfare in Britain. To consider also a relatively constant supply line for raw materials from all over the world. From today's perspective, this has to be critically examined, especially in the bomber command. From today's perspective, it's good that the war has ended. However, the suffering it caused will accompany us like a shadow forever. But I do consider, that the effort of the Bomber Command saved Germany from the drop of the American nuclear bomb. I would be delighted if you would give me your opinion?
  21. After tackling ICM's 1/48 Dornier Do215 (see my other RFI) I decided to jump in to my second ICM build the Do17Z-10, from ICM's1/48 Dornier family. The kit has all the same mouldings as the 215, except of course engines/cowlings and nose, a lot of these required injection pin marks to be removed(seems to be a hallmark of ICM kits). I used the Eduard p/e sets for the interior and exterior, also a set of masks. The interior had a little extra detail added to it including the MG151 cannon which can now hardly be seen. I closed up the bomb bay and added the fairing to the top of the rear fuselage, hollowed out the tail wheel fairing for a more authentic look. Wing and cowling fitting was excellent compared to the 215,even using the Eduard p/e in the u/c bays. the kit went together quite quickly and easily. One thing I did to get a decent wing to fuselage join was to leave out the three bulkheads in the bomb bay as they sat too high impairing a good join. I therefore suggest dry fitting and trimming of these bulkheads to get a good result, I will certainly be doing this with my next Do17Z build (yes I have another one ). The remainder of the build was pretty straightforward, I used gun barrels from the Eduard 109/190 kits that I had spare, as they have hollowed out tips. I decided looking at a couple of photos of the prototype that all the glazing at the nose, bar one on the port side, were plated over so I puttied over the glazing to give this appearance (rightly or wrongly ???). I also tried to duplicate the extra recognition lights these machines had, 2 above the tail and 2 below the cockpit, I drilled shallow indents painted them silver then filled them with clear ultra-violet glue, not brilliant but acceptable to me!! For the glazing that housed the infra-red search light I painted the rear with Tamiya clear red paint, then coated the top of that with black, trying to achieve a dark red finish - not very successful! I finished the kit with AK True Colours NATO Black, which is actually an extremely dark grey, possibly one step lighter than pure black. This gave to my mind a much better finish than black, please be your own judge as to the result! Panel lines were highlighted with medium grey which gave a pleasing but not very accurate result. I finished the kit as R4+GK of 2/NJG.2 based in Holland ( this machine was shot down in May 1941 by a 25 Sqdn. Beaufighter). The letter 'G' may have been red but having no photographic proof decided to have it grey. I used the kit decals for the national markings with some trepidation, having read some bad criticism of ICM's decals but to my delight they went on perfectly. The code letters were from the Xtradecal Do215 sheet and were not as good as ICM's!!!!! I really like the look of this particular if unsuccessful member of the Do17 family. Cheers Andy
  22. This is the result of my first build of an ICM kit, even though it was purchased when it first appeared back in 2014 I never got round to building it till now. So armed with the kit, Eduard's interior, exterior, bomb bay p/e sheets and masks, Quickboost's resin spinner/props and exhausts, finally Xtradecals sheet the build commenced. I had read the reviews and builds by others and was left with mixed feelings about ICM 1/48 kits especially the Do215, but plunged in anyway!! It was certainly not one of the easiest kits I've built and took me far longer to complete than I expected, at times I nearly gave up the whole project but in the end persisted hopefully the end result is a reasonable replica of this machine. There were an awful lot of ejector pin marks to remove which would have been visible on the finished kit, a problem I've noticed on the other ICM kits in my stash. Which led me to purchasing a fibre glass pencil which is a great way to remove these marks. I found the instructions a little confusing at times (when I used them!!!) usually for placing certain items in the cockpit. The Eduard etch caused me some problems especially in the u/c bays where a Dremel was used to sand down some of the parts attached to the u/c bay walls. This was to try to get the engine nacelles to fit reasonably to the wings. When it came to fitting the wing to the fuselage the join was terrible and required much sanding and filling. I have since come to the conclusion the bulkheads in the bomb bay need some trimming down to allow a reasonable wing to fuselage join. I also added strips of card to lower wing to fuselage join to alleviate the poor fit. I added some extra detail to the cockpit ( which I painted dark grey rather than RLM02???). I also decided to glue the cowlings closed even though replicas of the engines are supplied which I found to be rather simplified. One of the faults with this kit is the rear fuselage which does not have the bulged fairing over the tailplane, this has been rectified by an aftermarket resin product which as it costs half the price of the kit I decided not to purchase!! I did however modify the fuselage to show this feature, reasonably successfully I hope? The tailwheel fairing is one moulding including the tailwheel its self, I managed to hollow out the fairing leaving the tailwheel to look like a separate item. As it is a recce. machine I added a resin camera to the entry hatch/camera fairing from my spares box. I used AK True Colours to paint the kit and Xtradecals sheet for the Do215, I was rather disappointed with these decals as they seemed to be a lot thicker than I'm used to and took quite a lot of solvent to get them to look reasonable! This machine was from 1.(F)124 Stavanger, Norway April 1940 (couldn't resist the undersurface mottle!!!!!) Now then where's that ICM Do17Z-10 Cheers, Andy
  23. These two kits were built together, the Siebel Si204 using aftermarket i.e. Eduard 'Big Ed' etched and masks plus CMK resin wheels, seats and spinners. Where as the Bucker Bu181 was built virtually otb, both kits were Special Hobby 1/48 scale. The Si204 wasn't the easiest of kits to build, some of the parts not fitting together too well. The canopies were a bit of a trial to get a decent fit but was successful in the end. I also re-scribed all the panel lines as I found the kit ones to be rather shallow. On the plus side the interior detail was excellent, unfortunately mostly lost when fuselage halves are joined! Not a shake and bake kit but worth the effort put into it, Special Hobby certainly give us replicas of aircraft mostly ignored by other manufacturers and are to be congratulated for their choices. Aircraft was finished using AK True Colours, decals from kit and spares box. This particular machine was taken from a colour photo found on the 'net' the code only showed 3 letters L,Q & D so first letter is a guess B!!! These last 3 photos show the interior detail :- The Bucker Bu181 was built otb without any modification except cutting out and deflecting the control surfaces. Again a Special Hobby kit this one with no surprises and finished quite rapidly for me!!!! Machine is finished as per photo found in a Flugzeug Special on the Bu181, it appears the codes had been painted out except the one on the yellow bands the S is speculative. Unit badge is home made decal, finished again, with AK True Colours. Now S.H. where is the 1/48 Focke Wulf Fw58 Cheers Andy
  24. Current Luftwaffe Insignia (FP-1120) 1:48 by Fantasy Printshop Ltd. When the Luftwaffe was reformed in post war Germany there could be no way WWII insignia could be used. The decision was therefore taken to revert to the Pre 1920s Iron Cross or Balkenkreuz. Not a lot can be said other than these are current / post WWII Luftwaffe insignia in 1/32 scale. These scale out at 1ft, 1.3ft, 2ft, 2.3ft, 3ft, 3.3ft, 4ft, 4.3ft. They can also we would think be used in 1.72. The decals are sharp and in register on the white which to be honest a lot of kit decals are not. Recommended got your next Post war Luftwaffe aircraft. Review sample courtesy of
  25. Hello peeps. Well, uk is in lockdown and I am working from home. In between work I will get some bench time. So time to have a play with an experimental aircraft. I bought the PM ho 229 from Tornado models in Birmingham and I set about engraving the panel lines and was all set to start until I managed to break the canopy.....The canopy was broken beyond repair and I couldn’t find a replacement and asked the good folks here for help getting a replacement. Then the very generous and superb gent @dogsbody kindly offered me the pioneer kit all the way from Canada. Blown away by his generosity that kit has now arrived and I will be building the pm kit and pioneer kit side by side. It will be a slow build but thanks to mr dogsbody (who I owe a pint to when all this blows over) I have crash moulded a new canopy. Here is the wonderful box art of the pioneer 229. It will be an adventure! At least the pioneer parts seem to fit. The pm one..........stay safe and enjoy the ride as I build both of these side by side.
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