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Found 33 results

  1. Ki-86a/K9W1 "Cypress" (32032) 1:32 ICM The Bu 131 was designed by Carl Bucker and Anders Anderssen after Bucker Flugzeugbau was established in Germany in 1932. This was to be the last biplane built in Germany. The aircraft is a conventional two seat trainer with a fuselage made of steel tubes, and wings made of wood; everything being fabric covered. A Hirth HM60R 60hp engine was fitted. The aircraft was, and still is praised for its handling characteristics against even modern aircraft. The aircraft was before and during WWII the basic primary trainer for the Luftwaffe. It was also selected in this role by the Japanese Army (Kokusai Ki-86), The Japaneses Navy (Kyushu K9W), and the Spanish Air Force (CASA Production). In deed CASA continued manufacturing the aircraft well into the 1960s. Additional licensed production also took place in Switzerland, Hungary, and Czechoslovakia. A further 21 aircraft were produced in 1994 in Spain using the CASA jigs. The aircraft is still being produced today by Air Res Aviation in Poland. The Kit The kit arrives on two main sprues, and a small clear sprue. Like the real aircraft construction is pretty straight forward. The build starts with the main lower wing. This is of conventional construction with a single pat lower and split left/right upper. There is an additional sprue in this boxing for the Hitachi Ha-47 engine used by Japanese (Though both the cowlings for the Bu 131B & D are in the box as well). The centre of the wing will also form the bottom of the front cockpit. A section of framing for this cockpit must be placed in once the wing is completed. The ailerons are separate parts and can be added at this stage as well. Construction then moves onto two parts side by side. The rest of the cockpit steel tube framework is added to both the fuselage halves, at the sometime the aircraft's engine is also made up and added to its bearers. Once the cockpit frames are in the fuselage can be joined up. The fixed parts of the tailplanes are added at this stage also. the fuselage can then be joined to the lower wing. Moving back to the fuselage the coamings for both cockpits are made up and the instrument panels are added. Instruments are provided as decals. The seats are then added along with the forward fuselage metal panels and the engine firewall. The engine can then be mounted and its covers added. The prop and its housing can then be added at the front. Next up the two part upper wing is also made up and added. Again the ailerons are seperate parts. The interplane struts are then added to the upper wing. Once done this can be mounted to the lower wing. To finish up the under carriage is made up and added along with a few external parts A basic rigging diagram is provided in the instructions, this is not too clear to be honest and the modeller would be recommended to check their references. Markings There are four decal options included in the box. From the box you can build one of the following: Watanabe K9W1, 381st Kokutai, Malaya 1945 (Green over yellow) Kokusai Ki-86, Koku Shikan Gakko, Manchuria 1945 (overall green) Kokusai Ki-886a, Tachiarai Rikugun Hiko Gakko, 1945 (Overall yellow with brown cowl) Kokusai Ki-86a, Koku Shikan Gakko, Manchuria June 1945 (box art aircraft in camo) Decals are printed by ICM, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It is good to see an important trainer aircraft kitted in a larger scale, which for the aircraft still wont be a massive model. The quality of the kit is up there with ICM's latest releases, and really could only do with a set of seat belts to improve on whats in the box. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Blurred props for the “in-flight” look.
  3. I’ve always loved GHQ’s ‘Micronaut’ line of 1/2400 scale warships. Intended to be used as wargame counters, these models are simple to assemble and ridiculously tiny, but the detail on them is first rate! This one is one of the Japanese navy’s ill-fated light aircraft carriers, the IJN Ryujo.
  4. I’ve always loved GHQ’s ‘Micronaut’ line of 1/2400 scale warships. Intended to be used as wargame counters, these models are simple to assemble and ridiculously tiny, but the detail on them is first rate! This one is one of the Japanese navy’s ill-fated light aircraft carriers, the IJN Ryujo. I started by cleaning up an old Nichimo 1/200 U-Boat stand. Taking a sheet of high quality artist’s drawing paper intended for watercolors, I traced and cut out an outline of the ship. After gently rolling the paper over a pen to create a lightly undulating “sea”, I lightly attached it to the base with dots of cyanoacrylate (super glue). Once I was happy with the positioning, the whole paper got a soaking with the cyano. This fixed it securely in place and made it rock hard. Then I trimmed the paper and sanded the sides smooth to integrate the sea seamlessly onto the base. The sea base was painted with a coat of Tamiya Royal Blue (X-3) acrylic with enamel paints for the wake. The sides were then shot with Tamiya Desert Yellow (XF-59) acrylic followed with a streaky coating of Winsor & Newton Burnt Sienna artist’s oil (with just a touch of Burnt Umber) to simulate the look of a wood base. Now back to the ship! To depict the Ryujo as she appeared at the time of her loss at the Battle of the Eastern Solomons on August 24, 1942, the model was painted in Tamiya Kure Naval Arsenal Gray acrylic (XF-75). Then I applied the decal to the previously glossed flight deck. The end result is quite effective – and SO much easier than painting all this would have been! To complete the paint job, I added small details on the boats and funnels followed by a thin dark gray oil wash over the gray acrylic to outline details and deepen recesses. The ship was then attached to the ocean base with Soft Gel Medium, a clear viscous polymer used by artists as a thickener for acrylic paints. It works great as an adhesive, too. As with all Imperial Japanese Navy aircraft carriers, the Ryujo carried multiple masts to support communication antenna wires. These masts rotated down to horizontal during combat or flight operations. Matching the dimensions of a scaled down drawing of the vessel, I cut the three smaller units from brass wire and attached them to the ship with polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glue. To replicate the main mast’s lattice structure, I repurposed a type 13 radar from a 1/700 scale Japanese destroyer photoetch set, cutting the piece down and attaching it to a wire cut to the appropriate length along with a yard and antennae spreaders. As a final step, I installed copper wire rigging taken from an old coil. This stuff is about as fine as human hair, but even so it is fairly heavy for 1/2400 scale. I added just a representative sampling of the ship’s rig to keep from overwhelming the little model. The tiny IJN Battle Ensign is a Peddinghaus decal from their 1/1250 scale “Marineflaggen Japan” set. And done!
  5. Hi everyone, This is my 1/72 H8K2 Emily, unfortunately the right tail stabilizer isn't perfectly at 90° with the vertical tail plain I hope that you guys will like this massive seaplane as much as i do
  6. I'm building Tamiya's 48th A6M2 Type 21, not the best kit, part of one wing was short shot and the cowling has little to no contact points, so it glues where it touches. I also sanded away by accident part of the raised detail while trying to remove CA on the fuselage. What I wanted to know is if I could paint the aircraft in RLM 02 to simulate the Ame Iro, or just play stupid and paint it in light grey as shown in the coloured poster of the kit. My objective is to paint it as Saburo Sakai's V-103 A6M2 Type 21. I'm not trying to be super accurate, I want something passable. Thanks!
  7. Hi. Here´s my lattest build, the new Sword U-125A. Here you can have a look at the build. Daniel
  8. Hallo again The Mitsubishi F-1 in 1/48 from Hasegawa was the basic for this model. The model is equipped with training weapons. The colorful air-ship rocket is the eye catcher. Since much of the F-1 fleet is stationed in the very north at Hokkaido, the surrounding is very different from central Japan. Here we are at the same northern position as Vladivostok i.e. Sapporo. The northern part is very close to Sakhalin and the eastern part faces the Kuril Islands. This F-1 are always in close contact with the Russian air force. Happy modelling
  9. I´m interested in knowing if there´re any profiles or photos of Muto´s N1K2-J Shiden Kai. I´ve only managed to find articles with pictures of a recovered Shiden Kai from the Bungo channel (where Muto, Takashi Oshibuchi and other 4 pilots fell), but it was restored with the national insignia only, since the historians couldn´t find who flew the aircraft. If nothing can be found, then I´ll buy a Shiden Kai and build it as the restored aircraft, while adding the 343 decal (since Muto was a member of said unit). Better than nothing I imagine. Any help would be appreciated. http://www.ww2wrecks.com/portfolio/salvaged-and-restored-the-story-of-the-kawanishi-n1k-j-shiden-紫電-probably-flown-by-kaneyoshi-muto-武藤-金義/ http://ww2awartobewon.com/wwii-articles/kaneyoshi-muto-restored-shiden/
  10. Finished the Shinden yesterday, and I can say that this model has aged nicely, almost no flash, crisp raised panel lines and good fit overall. Since the real aircraft only made three flights before World War Two´s end, I decided I could go the IJN 46 route and paint it with some ace pilot markings, such as the yellow engine intakes and the band in front of the cockpit. Other than that, I didn´t deviate too much from the standard IJN camouflage scheme of green over (white) grey. And yes, I know I missed to paint the yellow leading edge bands until they met the fuselage. The decals were of Hasegawa´s new style, and they worked perfectly. I knew though, that the Hinomarus on the upper wings wouldn´t conform to the bumps there, so I decided to slice the decals over those areas, and repaint them in red after the decals were dry.
  11. Hallo again This B2M2 is a carrier bomber of the late years before WW2. It was used for operation against China and Manchukuo. This a/c are very seldom to find. As well as rare pictures as well as models. I have a certain linkage to Japan, and therefore this a/c was a must. The kit from Coroszy is nice. The instruction not easy, but Coroszy by itself is a fair partner. When a part is broken, you get replacement. The rigging I did is a basic rigging, I will put it on the forum soon. Different from rigging of WW1 1/32 a/c! And much easier. Happy modelling
  12. I decided to give Flickr for Android a try, since my table is currently occupied by the Shinden. Its pretty bad, it doesn't let me share the images because "there isn't an image for that url." I began the model today, and this is its current state, ready for painting. I decided to leave out the canards until after decaling, putting the aircraft on its gear and adding the propeller assembly, should I need to add more weight in the nose. Hasegawa recommends 1g of weight to be put as forward as possible, but I added a 10g weight and a smaller one ahead of it above the nose gear well. I don't know if that will be enough to avoid tail sitting, but the landing gear is really skinny and tall, and I don't want to add useless weight and overstress the nose gear. What do you guys think, will I need more weight?
  13. Hallo again With this a/c and some other special Japanese models my wife and me exhibited at Shizuoka hobby show in Japan. For this purpose Choroszy gave us some kits to distribute in Japan, and my friends there were all glad to see such unknown interwar planes of Japan. Two link may help you: https://modelbud.pl/ http://arawasi-wildeagles.blogspot.com/ On this blog you find hundreds or thousands of rare photos! In 2014, we did a special model exhibition in Austria, about Japanese modelling. In context with the IPMS-Austria GoMo (go modelling) 2014 my wife and me organized the topic about Japanese modelling. It was an overwhelming success. Together with Japanese artists and citizens, it was wonderful. The owner of the Arawasi publications was also present, especially from Japan. Happy modelling
  14. Here is a link to the All Japan Model and Hobby Show 2018. The largest model kit exhibition out east. All the model brands from the east, their new product launches for 2018/19. https://hobbylink.tv/the-latest-scale-model-news-from-the-all-japan-model-hobby-show-2018/
  15. Finally, something that isn´t German in my collection, Tamiya´s 1:48 J2M3 "Raiden." The decals worked well after soaking them in hot water for a moment, however, the Hinomarus over the wings didn´t totally conform to the raised details of the ailerons. The model was brushpainted with Revell 40 Black Green for the upper surfaces, and Revell Satin 371 Light Grey for the undersides (which was a pain to paint).
  16. This is my completed Pegaso bust of a Kamikaze pilot during World War II, he has been expertly sculpted in his final dive, The determined but frightened (?) expression on his face has been superbly captured. the clothing detail is very sharp, overall a very enjoyable couple of months spent getting him from a few pieces of grey resin to this final point. Face was painted with Andrea flesh set and the rest with various Tamiya, Mig, AK and vallejo colours, on with the photos;
  17. Dates: 29 July 2017 to 29 October 2017 Host: PhantomBigStu Given this great aircraft turns 45 in 2017 and celebrates 40 years I'm service next year how about a STGB in 2017? Make a nice partner for the f16 GB assuming there's room 1. PhantomBigStu 2. theplasticsurgeon 3. jrlx 4. mungo1974 5. DaveJL 6. Arniec 7. Dazzio 8. Bill Ficner 9. Julien 10. Antoine 11. Caerbannog 12. Pin 13. AndyC 14. trickyrich 15. snapper_city 16. Ale85 17. TrojanThunder 18. richj 19. Arniec 20. Jabba 21. Dermo245 22. vppelt68 23. exdraken
  18. source: http://www.hlj.com/product/DYS50075/Air 1/72 Kawasaki T-4 Blue Impulse by Doyusha Their Blue Impulse Sabre and other 1/72 kits are reboxed from Hobby Boss but this render looks like new tool. http://www.doyusha-model.com/ http://www.doyusha-model.com/hs_new_3.html
  19. Hello all, Here's my latest finished work. It's Meng's Kayaba Ku-4 parasite fighter carried by a Hasegawa Ki-49. Both kits were great builds, though the Mens decals and Hasegawa canopy fit were both less than ideal. The Kayaba Ku-4 was originally a glider prototype from 1940 that was resurrected to an experimental ramjet/rocket fighter airplane. It was to carry two 30 mm cannons with less than 100 rounds total. After making passes at B-29s, it was to glide back to an airstrip. Sort of an even more rudimentary Me-163. The Ku-4 is finished with Tamiya rattlecan, while the Ki-49 is a rattlecan base with Vallejo acrylics on top. Enjoy!
  20. This is my most recent completion, Sword's Ki-84. I like the Frank a lot, it has clean lines and good looks, a true fighter aircraft. Some years ago I built Hasegawa's excellent but dated kit, and I've been looking for an opportunity to build another one. When I came across Sword's pre-production version (I believe the c variant), I had to have it. Sword's kit is a popular candidate for best short run kit in these great 'What is the best xx-scale kit?' topics. As such I was curious to see how well it built. I found it to be a typical modern short run kit - nice detail, good use of resin parts (engine and wheel bay) but also somewhat spurious fit in areas (gun cover, engine cowling, wing root). All in all it built rather well but due to general hamfistedness it did take me a bit longer to complete than it should have. I drilled through the top of the wing when widening the locating holes for the gear... not my finest hour. None of the kit's issues are difficult to resolve, the only slightly problematic area is the canopy; this seems to be a bit wider than the cockpit area it sits on, resulting in a small step. I filled this with Perfect Plastic Putty but it's still noticeable, especially when compared to Hasegawa's old but perfectly-fitting kit. Sword gives you a choice of two color schemes, an unpainted aluminium plane and a 'Medium brown' with green mottling. I visited Nick Millman's blog 'Aviation of Japan' to get a line on the shade of brown I needed, and using the color swatches I found I created my own using some RAF Dark Earth as a base, mixed with Tamiya Red Brown and Olive Drab. This was applied over a coating of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Aluminium. The mottling was sprayed using Tamiya's IJA Green. I used some IJA Grey for the control surfaces, but I feel the shade is too green when I look at it now - if someone can verify what this shade should look like I'd love to hear it. Sword's decals worked well but the set has one curious omission. It appears that the lines around the front and rear of the wings are red on an unpainted surface and yellow on camouflaged surfaces. Sword provides sufficient red decals to do to the unpainted variant, but for the camouflaged variant the yellow lines around the front of the wing are missing. I stole these from a Hasegawa sheet I have, but this created another problem, a mismatch between the yellow shades of the lines. In the end I therefore used all Hasegawa decals. After decaling I saw that the yellow on the wing leading edge had a decidedly greener tint than the rather orangey yellow of the lines. Oh well. I was going to weather the plane quite severely, to try out some new techniques, then realized it was in use with a test squadron, and thought better of it - I suppose these guys must have taken some care of their mounts and/or wouldn't have used it for long. I picked some W&N water colors to apply a wash, a toothpick to scratch the paint around some of the panels in order to allow the bare metal to show through, and a combination of pastels and washes to create some staining. I used a couple of minor after-market items on this build; canopy mask by Eduard, tubing for the pitot and gun barrels from Albion Alloys, a lens for the landing light from Little Cars and EZ-line type thread from some eBay seller. In summary, a satisfying result from what is undoubtedly a very good kit of this important and beautiful aircraft. It joins its nemesis, the F6F, in my growing collection of 'Hellcats over the Pacific' - inspired builds.
  21. I discovered one of these in my stash hidden as a freebie inside another kit and thought it might look nice next to my Judy one day. It's all sealed and in good order minus the box so a nice addition to the 'shelf breakers'. Haswgawa Toyota Starter Truck Gb http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MjYzWDUwMA==/z/dqAAAOxy4dNS2TTG/$_35.JPG http://www.hasegawausa.com/product-images/hsgs1817bs01t-lg.jpg (I see once again it's converting pix to urls...pita!) Obviously not a popular subject (only found 1 BM build pic, although hints of at least 2 more) but I am hoping someone can point to pix, plans etc of the originals. Google bought up 2 very poor quality pix but little else. Also see there's a tanker that shows up occasionally. Perhaps a fleabay/market hunt is in order... At least it will be different to the current fad of RAF WW2 vehicles.
  22. It went a different direction than planned so lets try again in the correct sub-forum ********************************** OK I need a break from my Wiffy Walrus (those struts nearly broke me!). Here what I picked off the shelf: Yokosuka D4Y3, model 33, Suisei The box says 1/72 but a little research suggests 1/75. I'm not a rivet counter or micrometer user and as other reviews say it's basic but otherwise fine that's good enough for me. I did come across a query on fuselage diameter but this could be related to the iffy scale. Instructions are a single double sided A4. As per the plastic it is simple but effective. Decals are Hinomarus and...err... On to the plastic. Sprues (and loose bits & 'glue') ...tbc
  23. The Toyota G series of trucks was built in huge numbers by the Japanese with the GB alone amassing 19870 units between 1938 and 1942. Hasegawa first released this 1/72 version complete with Hucks Starter in 1978. Unfortunately it's noted as 'retired' on their site but it pops up occasionally from the usual 2nd hand suppliers. I was planning on starting it in a week or two but plans change and out it came ahead of schedule. So is it worth building?...lets find out..
  24. Hello everybody, I just wonder why Japanese navy aircraft in the latter part of the war seem to have been painted green on the upper side. Most fighting took place over more or less tropical seas where the water appears rather blue. The camouflage schemes of the US Navy reflect that. By contrast in the North (or in higher latitudes) the colder, nutrient-rich water appears more greyish and greenish. That is where the Extra Dark Sea Grey and Dark Slate Grey of the FAA fit in well. Maybe the green on the IJN planes was due to the fact that hiding on the ground (on land) became of paramount importance once most Japanese carriers were sunk after 1942, but the planes still flew a lot of time over water. Any thoughts on this topic? Ole
  25. I'll be using the Academy kit but using the Japanese markings from a Revell kit.
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