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Found 3 results

  1. NOTICE: On day 6 it is clear that I have either damaged the airbrush, or, the airbrush was perhaps not that good in the first place. I get near instant clogging and I see the paint flow being inconsistent as I gradually try increase the paint flow with the lever, if I screw on the nozzle cap too much. Apparently there is a sweet spot, that makes the paint flow seemingly perfect, with a nice spray, with no clogging. So I can still use this airbrush I think, until I try out some spare parts or buy a new one. Edit: Warning: Since I started a few days ago, I might have learned a few more things about my airbrush, so take what I write with a grain of salt so to speak, or rather, take into consideration that what I write in each post might in worst case be wrong. Day 0 I have bought a new air compressor with a 4L tank, but the connecting part between the compressor and the airbrush is not airtight. No point trying out airbrushing this way. Day 1 Finally, today I managed to acquire some rubber O-rings, and I used 3-4 of them to stop the leaking connection between my new and expensive 4L compressor (Faller Air Boss/Sil-Air 15D variant?) and my el cheapo airbrush (BD-130). The connector that came with the airbrush doesn't fit my compressor (both appear to be 1/4" connections though), I can screw it on a little, but don't dare tighten it, putting in O-rings fixed the leakage. Temp = 22 deg C Rel. Humidity = 25-40% (true value unknown, I have apparently two crappy hygrometers, one digital and one analogue, each in different rooms) Compressor PSI set to eh 20+ when putting on primer, ca 30 psi when putting on color. After quite some time of fun airbrushing regular Vallejo color, having started with mucho clogging when trying out the Vallejo Gray Primer on a non painted model for practise, I came to realize that I had the wrong needle in the airbrush. Before I started airbrushing, I had removed the 0.3 or maybe a 0.35 nozzle from the airbrush and put on the optional 0.5 nozzle, but aha I forgot to switch out the needle for a 0.5 one. Even with the nozzle cap on, the needle stuck outside the cap, something I thought looked rather odd, but I didn't know any better. So I ended up airbrushing with a 0.5 nozzle, together with a 0.3 or perhaps a 0.35 needle. I had managed to paint some Vallejo Dark Sea Gray onto a lighter gray colored plastic model (previous enamel paint), and I thought the end result was really nice. I am looking forward to try out airbrushing Tamiya X-22 Clear coat over it, to see if the surface becomes more smooth, or at least to see if I can get an even shine over the whole surface. Before doing a clear coat, I might as well try out some masking and put on some white invasion stripes for fun. I have no idea if the mucho clogging with the Vallejo gray primer was due to wrong needle, the airbrushing or if I should have mixed it with something. I think I added some Vallejo airbush thinner, but maybe it was too little. As I started airbrushing a submarine stand I had lying around, with primer, it became clear that I wouldn't be able to finish it in anything resembling normal time, because of the clogging. Hopefully, now that I have fixed my "wrong needle" issue, I hope I get to see a different result tomorrow. Things I did, that I perhaps shouldn't have: At the end, I thought, why not add some thinner to the medium sized flash of Vallejo Gray Primer, so I poured some of that into it. I also added a ball bearing, and so I had put that into the flask, no idea if that really helps with this kind of paint. I think I managed to get to airbrush the wing of an airplane model properly. I had the airbrush about 8cm from the model. I guess I thought that 20+ psi was ok, but with the trouble I had with the primer, I tried upping the psi towards 30 for airbrushing the color afterwards. I'll go back to 20'ish the next time. Noteworthy things: - Seems I should buy some cheap non Vallejo airbrush cleaner somewhere, because I used a lot on my first airbrush session. I cleaned the airbrush maybe four times, and felt comfortable doing it. - When I fill some airbrush cleaning liquid into the airbrush and adjust the paint flow ratio towards maximum, I see a nice spray, maybe 4 cm in diameter at 10cm distance (roughly). - I find it a little difficult judging how much paint is sprayed on a surface, if the surface already has some paint on it. - The best indication of flow, seem to when I spray cleaning liquid onto my hand (wearing a non-latex glove/100% "nitril"). - I realized I should improve the lighting a little. Best to have good lighting conditions, otherwise it is difficult to see how the spray is applied on the surface of the model. - I did try out airbrushing bare plastic, and it went well. If using the gray primer doesn't improve, I am tempted to simply airbrush paint without a layer of primer. No idea if the paint might chip off that way. I feel confident that I can airbrush a project soon, if I do a little planning to avoid making known mistakes.
  2. Hi all, I am back into modelling after YEARS off the scene and I'm trying to find a 100% idiot proof clear/gloss coat to seal the model before applying decals. I have had disaster after disaster and want to be 100% confident that when I spray the gloss coat to seal the model for decals I am not going to DESTROY/CRACK/COMPLETELY STUFF UP my paintwork. Currently I generally use Humbrol Enamel Paints for the paint scheme which is sprayed on after mixing 50:50 with humbrol enamel thinners I have tried a generic acrylic gloss coat on a test model and the enamel cracked. I have tried Tamiya clear TS-13 and that has cracked some paint. I just want something that I can put through the airbrush and spray CONFIDENTLY that it will finish okay for decaling and most importantly NOT DESTROY my previously sprayed scheme. Forget CLEAR or KLEAR or FUTURE or anything like that I cant get that in Australia. All help greatly appreciated otherwise the looney bin is the next option
  3. Just spent an hour of my life that I will never get back trying to get a decal ready gloss finish on Humbrol matt colours using Future. The humbrol certainly is matt, it ate the future for breakfast!!! I gave up after getting a very slight sheen after about 8 coats!!! Removed it all with ammonia, back to square one. I have no problems getting a gloss finish using future over other paints. I rarely use humbrol, so hoping all you humbrol users can tell me how you get a decal ready gloss coat on your models, should I be using an enamel based clear coat over humbrol colours? Bruce
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