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  1. I've become infatuated with Eduards Spitfire (probably a bit too much) lately and that got me thinking. Would it be a good idea to chop the Griffin of the Airfix XII and marry that to an (preferably Overtrees) Eduard VIII airframe? That way you'll get a lovely detailed XII, with a sliding hood that isn't made in one piece and looks a bit weird. Or am I trying/thinking too much, since the Airfix XII is a quite fine kit anyway? //Christer
  2. Eduard leaflet for May: http://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2016-05.pdf change digit in link for older issues
  3. Kit - Eduard 'Profipack' original issue. Paint - All acrylics. Decals - Kit & Aeromaster Extras - none. Bell P-39Q-20 Airacobra GC 1/5 'Champagne' Southern France September 1944 Not sure if this has happened to anyone else, but I genuinely forgot that I had this kit until it 'appeared' during a stash tidying session... happy, happy modeller ! Everything you see here comes from the Profipack box with the exception of a couple of decals. The build was so straightforward - not one to rush, you need to really think it through and read-ahead - but virtually problem free until you get to the wings which are realistically thick on the leading edge but unrealistically thick on the trailing edge. It's a known issue with the kit and easily solved with the robust application of 'some modelling skills'. After the usual primer-coat, I decided to try to achieve a heat-faded / bleached effect for the paint using the usual pre & post shading techniques and lightening the OD & NG tones (both Tamiya). I read that many of the French P-39Q's were taken from stockpiles that had been in North Africa for a few months in open storage so this is what I've tried to replicate. Weathering & leaks etc are mainly achieved with W & N oils and some MIG washes, the exhaust plume is Tamiya 'Buff', 'Red Brown' and dry-brushed oil-paint and I'm really pleased with how it came out.. Eduard would have you build the French 'option' as a late P-39Q-25 with a four-blade prop but by changing to a three-blade Q-20 and altering the side number I've employed a little artistic license (also explains the painted-over Stars'n Bars). It may upset a purist or two, but I can live with that. Please feel free to ask any questions, make any comments or criticisms. All the best from an Autumnal NZ. Ian.
  4. About time I got my build up and running or I won't stand a chance of finishing it before my next GB commitment looms into view! I got this kit last year on an offer from Jadlam and it ended up costing me the same as the standard package from ICM but comes with masks, etched brass, resin wheels and some more interesting colour schemes. I quite like the box art too. Just to prove that the goodies are still securely wrapped; Certainly fills the box doesn't it. Here's the etched set, not usually a fan of this stuff but it would be wrong to not try to use it; And the resin goodies, wheels and conversion parts for one of the options; Speaking of options, most of the ones are for aircraft from the Battle of Britain in the standard 70/71/65 scheme (meh) but there are others which appeal to me, starting with this pair; I do like the look of the one with the black undersides, and no it hasn't got a bad case of the mumps those are flotation devices as the Z-5 was operated over water a lot and they are in the resin goody bag. I like the Greece based one because of the large theatre markings and I have an interest in the MTO, which brings me nicely onto the next set of possibilities; A proper MTO finish! I like that sand one a lot. Those of you who know my builds will also know that I have a thing for temporary Winter schemes too, so both these appeal. Looks like a have a difficult decision to make in the near future! There is also a Finnish option on the decal sheet but I built an ICM Z-2 as a Finnish Z-3 5 years ago; I enjoyed that build and can't see why this one should be any different, time to pull my finger out and get started! Craig.
  5. So here is (potentially) the start of part one of a dual/joint/two at a time build. Jury is still out in my head if to try two at a time having only completed two builds in 1/350 in the past 3 years especially as I still have a lot to learn and want them to turn out well. Also whether to do a joint thread or separate ones? As a kid I built 1/600 battleships, if it didn’t have big guns I wasn’t interested. A few years back I dabbled in 1/400 and built battleships, (you may see a pattern), now that I’m rather hooked on the hobby again I’ve started by building you’ve guessed it – battleships, specifically Zvezda’s Dreadnought and Hobbyboss’s Dunkerque (95% complete). As I looked at my stash of 12 and counting with a couple of those started I realised bar a modern Russian destroyer I needed to change it up. I settled on Aircraft Carriers, specifically 3, the bank said I could have 2 - fair enough I said. I wanted something unusual looking and Graf Zeppelin is certainly that. I’d actually discounted her as the aftermarket options aren’t great, Mk.1 do a set three times the cost of the kit which I personally think is too much. Eduard do a set in 4 prts, 2 prts of which are now discontinued. I contacted them about this and another set for Roma they have done similar with and they very bluntly said they wouldn’t bring it back into production even if demand went up which seems odd but that’s up to them. So I have coming on monday trumpeters kit of Graf Zeppelin in 1/350 with half of the eduard sets available, I did track down all four parts but when I compared the kit parts with those offered by eduard I found multiple areas when eduard merely replaced what was already included in the kit with little or no marked difference. I’ve also an extra set of six ME 109’s and Stukas. I plan to do my best with it, maybe scratch build a few bits, it won’t be jaw dropping in terms of PE but I think there is enough to lift the base model up a level or two. Part of the thing with Graf Zeppelin is of course she was never finished (about 95%) and in the process of not being finished she was changed several times. A brief history can be found on many a website, likely including this one on other builds but essentially, she had an Atlantic bow added post launch, was put on hold a couple times, had bulges added as well as changes to her super structure, AA armament, Aircraft complement and make up etc. You get the idea, the brilliant thing is it means you can’t really go wrong and where the line is drawn is any ones guess. As you’ll see from the following photos, Insert obligatory pictures (all from scale mates and Wikipedia) I plan to make minor changes to the super structure and funnel cap as I think trumpeter got it very very very wrong. I’ve no idea on paint schemes she’d likely have adopted, the Germans didn’t seem to do much up to early 42 which is potentially when she could have entered service had she not be placed on hold repeatedly. There is this picture on Scalemates that are supposedly GZ but to me I'm not convinced, the step/angle in the bow is gone, the tip of the bow is different as is the rake, as are the missing casemates (which is possible) but the bulge comes a lot further forward and the superstructure is stepped out to one side which would be massive work to undertake during the brief times she was actually worked on post 1940, I wondered if these are perhaps pictures of Weser but I don't think she got that far in construction? Now as for the second ship I may concurrently build – I’ll say nothing partially not to jinx it, Im told it'll be here in short order but time will tell. I'll be initially working to complete to a point of airbushing as the bank balance has taken a hit and so I can’t invest in an Airbrush right now. So any areas hairy stickable I’ll look to do and other areas be left ready for airbrushing later in the build. I'm not sure how easy to do as sub assemblies carriers are - but I'll guess I will fid out. Dunkerque has taken 10 months and isn’t huge but is nearly there so I doubt this will be a quick build initially but if you’d like to follow on and have made it through my inane ramblings I’d be glad of any input and suggestions as to: - paint schemes - paint sequencing given my Airbrish plan/delay - and modifications that may make her stand out. Photo's of the kit and PE to follow when they arrive, Thanks for bearing with me Sam
  6. Greetings, I recently made this lovely 72nd scale Eduard Mig-21. It is a great kit, practically no filler needed, went together like a dream. I purchased a lot of aftermarket for it as well - resin exhaust (Armycast) and engine (Eduard), resin pylons and UB-16 rocket pods, exterior and interior PE (all of these Eduard), metal pitot tube (Master), and Slovak Air Force specific decals (Airdesign). This particular jet was manufactured in Moscow and first served in the Czechoslovak Air Force, and later in the Slovak Air Force until 2001 (maybe 2002?), when it was retired and placed in a museum. It has a rather unique color scheme that differs from all other Slovak jets of the same type, as it underwent maintenance at its home base instead of Dresden, where most of these jets normally went for servicing (as far as I know anyway). One of the control surfaces was also later replaced due to damage, and the spare part came from a Mig-21 painted in lighter brown shade, so there is a visible difference between colors. Like I mentioned, construction was really effortless, I only had minor issues with the Master metal pitot, as those small PE vanes are very fiddly. The resin rockets pods look much nicer than original kit parts. Decals by Airdesign (a local Slovak manufacturer of decals and masks, as well as an e-shop) were great in that they are very very thin and require literally no decal solution to bend into recesses and panel lines. Downside is, they tear easily under stress. Carrier film is hardly visible as well. Opposite the new style Eduard decals (the "peel off kind"), they were great to work with. I had a bit of a problem with Airdesign stencils though, particularly the smallest serial number decals), because they are literally the same shade of blue on this jet than the backing paper. I simply couldn't see them, haha. So I used Eduard serial numbers (they have no. 9712 on their sheet, mine should be 9713, but in this scale, they are hardly readable anyway, they look the part good enough for me). Everything was brush painted using Vallejo and Ammo Mig acrylic paints and washes. I am not entirely satisfied with the dark brown/mahagony shade, as in this scale it is a bit too dark. I lightened it a bit and tried to produce a type of "shading" that can be done using a brush (sort of drybrushing/ blunt-brushing in essence). It destroys brushes, but the effect is worth it. My original plan is to create a small diorama for this model, so I have in stash a boarding ladder, (LP models) FOD covers (Eduard), and a tow bar (Ciro models - a Czech brand) as well as another complete kit of a different model I want to include. This will take a bit more time though, and I feel like making a different aircraft in between as well. So maybe later this year, who knows... I feel like I could provide better presentations if I invested in a airbrush/spray booth (and a proper camera), but for now I am content on trying to improve with a brush and see what I can achieve. Anyway, thanks for looking.
  7. I'm start another Mig -) This is limited edition - repack of Trumpeter 05801. Changes: 1) Very cool brochure. Photos, texts, artdraws... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMExnk_42MA in czech, but google translate can help. 2) 9 decal options (Cartograph printing) 3) PE, resin. All fine, but... This model is wrong. Trumpeter make this kit from MiG-23M/MLD changing only the nose, but this is not enough. All front part of fuselage has the wrong geometry. For fix this error Cold War Studio made resin kit: I decided to buy some corrections and additions: chassis, nose, weapons. Let's start:
  8. EDUARD Eikó 1/48 - F-104J Starfighter F-104J was a version of the F-104G specifically built for interceptor role for the Japan Air Self-Defense Force. F-104J was armed with cannon and up to four sidewinders but lacked any strike capability. A total of 210 were built, most of them under license by Mitsubishi. A dual-control trainer version F-104Dj was also produced. The kit is Eduard 1/48 special edition box set which comes with some extra goodies. Also multiple paint schemes to choose from. Plastic parts are from Hasegawa - which should be a good kit apart from some excessive riveting. Not sure whether I will let that bother me. Hasegawa kit is fair bit older than the rather new Kinetic Starfighter but we will see how it holds up against it. I have built the Kinetic kit before but not Hasegawa. Some of the extra stuff that comes with the kit. Paint masks, resin ejection seat, PE cherry blossom and PE parts for the cockpit. Ejection seat is rather nice - even more so after some paint and PE harnesses. Some aftermarket stuff I got. Not sure whether the 'remove before flight' tags are correct for the Japanese machine but if not I will just leave them out. I also have some extra PE parts and resin pitot tube to spice things up. The kit not only comes with brilliant full color instruction booklet but with a reference book also. While I could do any of the paintjobs that come with the kit, these two catch my eye the most. High quality photos in the reference book. Pretty handy! This truly is pretty inspiring kit and I can't wait to do one of those Air Combat Meet -paintjobs on a Starfighter
  9. I have probably succumbed to temptation thinking I can finish this build and my Douglas Boston over the in the Bomber/Strike/GA GB, which both have a mid-May deadline. So I may well be punished (or at least banished to the next KUTA) by taking this on, but in the spirit of the ďábel (devil) may care, why not? So my build is yet another 1/72 Eduard MiG-21, this time a PFM. As it says on the box this is a 'Weekend Edition', so no included PE nor masks. Masks are on their way but otherwise will build out of the box. Here's the obligatory sprue shots, admittedly just like every other Eduard MiG-21 on here. I'll build this, as on the box, as the Czechoslovak air force's 4401 of the 1st Fighter Regiment's 3rd Squadron, circa 1969-70. The jet features nose art of a devil and pitchfork against a crescent moon and the night sky - I'm sure not sure of the significance of it back then (a unit patch?), but I see the blue and yellow colouring as a subtle nod to Ukraine. As it happens 4401 is today on display outside the former air force headquarters in Stará Boleslav, near Prague: https://www.airliners.net/photo/Czech-Republic-Air-Force/Mikoyan-Gurevich-MiG-21PFM/1503562 Which raises my first question for the BM brains trust... The instructions say to paint the cockpit grey, rather than the turquoise blue-green of most MiG-21s. But looking closely at the combing of the jet on display today it looks like turquoise. Maybe just the combing and canopy frame is turquoise, which seems to be the case on this GDR MiG-21PFM? Any thoughts welcome before I begin some painting. In the meantime, to kick things off I have begun assembly of the cockpit and internals. I know it's well known and oft remarked on here, but so far the kit has built beautifully, in contrast to my Special Hobby Boston! But both builds will be rewarding in their own way. . Cheers, Gerard
  10. Hi all This is Eduard's 'problematic' 1/48 D-9 kit. Fortunately, this is my last one I have, so I don't have to build any more of them . Finished in the markings of 'Black 12' 500658 from KG(J) 27 - an ex Bomber unit whose pilots were re-mustered into a fighter wing at the end of the war. According to records, this aircraft was lost in combat with P-51s on 1st April 1945. No photos exist of 500658, but I've tried to model it on other D-9s from the 500 series, and there is evidence of the green/white checker band on other KG(J) 27 aircraft, including 109s and 190As. Painted with a mix of Vallejo and Mig, using some old Montex masks from the spares box and kit decals for the octane and glycol stencils. Painting/masking the checker strip was fun! Anyway, hope you like the pics..
  11. Eduard is to release a new tool 1/48th Sopwith Camel kits. Source: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/eduard-pressekonferenz-in-nuernberg/ 3D render V.P.
  12. Hello gents, Hope there's a Spitfire-brain out there who can help me with what seems to be a very strange error in Eduard's instructions for the markings of their Mk.IIb Profipack, specifically the scheme of Frederick Gaze, flying from Westhampnett in June 1941. In the profile, there are no upper wing roundels shown. Not a sausage – just the dark earth/green pattern and walkway stencils. I'm perplexed. I've not been able to find any reference to his specific aircraft online, but despite that, I'm almost certain it's an error on Eduard's part, as I've never, ever come across a Spit with no upper roundels, and can find no reference to support this unusual omission. Underwing absence, sure. Different theatres, sure, overpainted, different sizes, different operators...we know the drill. However, NONE? I simply can't believe it! Can anyone shed any light on this little puzzler? For what it's worth, beyond the quandary it's an outstanding kit. Thanks in advance, and happy modelling, Al
  13. Hello all, Here is my entry for this GB...if I get around to it - I think I've overcommitted to GBs somewhat! Eduard's 1/48 Mig-21bis 'around the world' in the markings of the Croatian Air Force, based at the 91st Air Force Base, Pleso, Zagreb in 2016. Kit: The lovely decal sheet: The scheme I'll be doing: Aftermarket solely consists of a CMK ejection seat: Although I have a Barracuda nose set on the way. I'll be loading it with one fuel tank on the fuselage and a pair of R-60 (AA-8 'Aphid') missiles on the wings. You can see the load and the aircraft in the below video: Hopefully I'll get to it after I clear the F/A-18 and Eurofighter off the bench, but still have another two entries for GBs that are either running or fast approaching! Cheers Dave
  14. Hi all So here's my second take on a Malta Spitfire VC, this time with the new Eduard kit (all OOB except for some metal gun barrels, the spinner and left over decals from my previous Special Hobby build). I went for BR112, 185 Sq flown by Claude Weaver III. Weaver became the youngest Allied fighter ace but sadly didn't live to see it end after being shot down over France in 1944 after successfully escaping captivity and making it back into the war. I got myself a copy of the Colour Conundrum Compendium articles by Paul Lucas who depicts BR112 in Extra Dark Sea Grey and Dark Slate Grey with a Sky underside. I wanted to display this flying for two reasons really: - A spit just looks soooooo much better this way. - By raising it up it meant that I could fit it on the same shelf with two parked aircraft in my display cabinet (If i carry on doing this i can do another 3 models before having to convince my wife we need a new cabinet!). The lettering on the birch disc was the only thing useable from the montex masking set up bought for this project-all the rest were really warped, apparently this happens to old vinyl masks.. . The spinner was simply made by cutting out some thin 0.25mm evergreen clear sheet and scoring it with a compass point. I think its fairly effective, its only when the light hits from certain directions and the glossy shine/reflections spoil the illusion. Any tips for achieving the same effect welcomed-I'll be doing more in flight models! Weathering consisted of a flory wash, oil rendering and stains and a good stipple of ground up pastels for the dust effect. Overall very happy with it, but i really need to get better at attaching and masking canopies more neatly... Anyway on to some pics, hope you like it and thanks for looking. Graeme
  15. P-51B/C Wheels & Exhausts (for Arma Hobby Kit) 1:72 Eduard The new Arma Hobby kit i great in its own right, that has not stopped Eduard from releasing their own updates for the kit. Wheel - Diamond tread (672282) This set of new main wheels features conventionally cast main wheels as well as a set of yellow tape masks (not shown). The kits feature a diamond tread pattern. The casting is upto Eduard's usual high standard. Exhaust Stacks (672279) This set features new exhausts stacks for the main engine and are 3D printed given the size these will always be better than injected parts. The stacks come in a protective plastic case. Exhaust Stacks with fairings (672280) This set features new exhausts stacks with fairings for the main engine and are 3D printed given the size these will always be better than injected parts. The stacks come in a protective plastic case. . Review samples courtesy of
  16. Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird Update Sets (For Revell) 1:48 Eduard For the longest time the only choice for a quarter-scale Blackbird was the ancient Testors kit, which graced the boxes of various manufacturers over the years. It was flimsy, had raised details and was hard to build well, and harder to keep in one piece once done, due to the multi-part fuselage. Recently, Revell have brought their own kit to the party, with a completely new tooling, robust construction, and much more engraved and raised detail. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner, and for a kit of this size, they’ll be brought out in stages. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Undercarriage (481081) This large bare brass set contains some important upgrades to the landing gear bays, which while they have the basics moulded into the kit, aren’t fully decked-out for the detail hungry modeller. Work starts with the nose gear bays, detailing the two prominent cylinders with filler caps and a thick section around the middle of the tanks, while the opposite end of the bay is dressed with detailed skins on all sides. The gear leg is relieved of its moulded-in oleo-scissors and the actuator for the aft bay door ramp, which are then replaced by more detailed PE parts that will improve the look greatly. The other long bay door is replaced with a new PE assembly, adding thickness to the part with a lamination that holds inside it a set of louvres that you make up within a shallow frame, using the grooves etched into the sides as a guide, and the scrap diagrams showing you the correct orientation. The rear gear bay inner doors are built in a similar manner, although this time with three layers to depict the thinner section in the centre, and this then has a piano-like hinge added to its top edge and a number of pivot points for the kit actuator rams that are reused. The outer main bay door is retained but has the outer lip removed, after which it is sandwiched between two layers of PE, with a few small appliqué plates installed on the outer face. The kit part’s hinges are also retained to make installation easier. Engine Exhausts (481082) This large fret of brass replaces the moulded-in detail on the two large exhausts at the rear of the Blackbird. This detail is first removed by sanding or scraping inside and out, after which the two sides are skinned with individual segments of PE with details etched-in, lining them up as per the diagrams. The section further forward from the petals is also treated to an upgrade, but this time with no removal of detail needed. The two parts are first mated as per the kit instructions, then have the twelve skin sections glued to the surface within, all of which is duplicated on the other engine. Grilles (481083) This set is slightly smaller than the preceding two, and is filled entirely with replacement grilles that are found all over the upper and lower surfaces of the Blackbird’s semi-blended engine nacelles. The original moulded-in grilles should be filled with your preferred brand, then the new PE parts can be formed to fit the contours of the kit, and glued in place around the edges to give your SR-71 a more realistic and three-dimensional look. Annealing the parts before bending them will let them conform to the surface much more easily, and if you’re not sure what that involves, it’s softening the brass by heating the parts up with a flame until the brass discolours, then letting it air-cool rather than quenching it in cold water. Review sample courtesy of
  17. I have just started the Eduard 1/48 Fulmar Mk II for something different, This version comes without the resin of the other various editions put out by other companies. I also have two more versions of the MPM kit sitting in stash to build at some stage. Here is the initial parts of the build including the wheel wells. The fuselage prior to painting. The fuselage after initial coat of SMS British Interior Green. I have added the pre painted PE and will be adding a few scratch built parts to make it look a fraction better prior to weathering the interior. The various interior bits that need to be completed then weathered prior to installation. Of course I still had to make up the interior of the wing light to add the wing light lens and PE.
  18. Hello, Here's another project of mine. 3 american aircrafts including 1 and a half under british management. Both are early Mustangs with différents armament and of course different wing. 1 MTO, 1 ETO and the last from CBI There's an Accurate min and 2 ICM, serioulsly they're almost identical. The first to be finished, I guess will be the MTO one a P-51A from an US Sqdn on loan to an brit squadron. The colours will be ... Let's say, unusual. One of my favourite game , you both should know the kind of remark "are you sure about the colours ???" I modify the camera rack for 2 of thede Mustang, because, you receive this... And you must have that... So, I cut the brackets, throw away the original support, add an armour plate ( from her cousins ) slightly modified. Add wiring to the camera, That seem promising, there's also lots of sanding but the ICM are worst. I keep on going, modifying the wings according to the 3 different type of early mustang is funny. Thank for watching. Corsaircorp
  19. Hi everyone, Being a fan of Exito decals for quite awhile and having a thing for building Focke-Wulfs, their latest offer was like a siren song to me, irresistible. Of the 3 options I’ll build 2 for sure. This one is the first, later on the Dora 9 will follow Eduard A-5 plastic OOB using MRP (upper colours and yellow) and Mr.Hobby for the blue 76, sprayed free hand. I suspect that being one of Kapitan “Sepp” Wurmheller machines it should be well kept by the ground crews, I didn’t go mad with weathering. Hope you enjoy!
  20. 1/72 Eduard Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX first CAD picture: https://www.facebook.com/161026690575664/photos/a.909009385777387.1073741841.161026690575664/909012812443711/?type=3&theater
  21. Hello, comrades! My next build is Eduard's recently issued profipack of Bf-110G early variants. Overall over engineered kit made on well used molds gave in result the very time consuming build. Fit is at the level of intermediate limited run kits. Special thanks to Eduard for nose guns cover made from two parts (resin and half of plastic part). I believe, single resin part is much more appropriate here... I started with most problematic assemblies - wings&nacelles and nose. So far one wing assembled, with minimal use of acrylic putty. Second wing and nose are in process. https://i.ibb.co/KzjmHcs/06.jpg Thanks for looking
  22. Spitfire Mk.Vb Late ProfiPACK (82156) 1:48 Eduard The Spitfire was the champion of the Battle of Britain along with the Hurricane and a few other less well-known players, and it’s an aircraft with an amazing reputation that started as a bit of a damp squib in the shape of the Supermarine Type 224. This gull-winged oddity was the grandfather of the Spitfire, and despite losing out to the biplane Gloster Gladiator, designer R J Mitchell was spurred on to go back to the drawing board and create a more modern, technologically advanced and therefore risky design. This was the Type 300, and it was an all-metal construction with an incredibly thin elliptical wing that became legendary, although it didn’t leave much space for fuel, a situation that was further worsened by the Air Ministry’s insistence that four .303 machine guns were to be installed in each wing, rather than the three originally envisaged. It was a very well-sorted aircraft from the outset, so quickly entered service with the RAF in 1938 in small numbers. With the clouds of war building, the Ministry issued more orders and it became a battle to manufacture enough to fulfil demand in time for the outbreak and early days of war from September 1939 onwards. By then, the restrictive straight sided canopy had been replaced by a “blown” hood to give the pilot more visibility, although a few with the old canopy still lingered for a while. The title Mk.Ia was given retrospectively to differentiate between the cannon-winged Mk.Ib that was instigated after the .303s were found somewhat lacking compared to the 20mm cannon armament of their main opposition at the time, the Bf.109. As is usual in wartime, the designers could never rest on their laurels with an airframe like the Spitfire, as it had significant potential for development, a process that lasted throughout the whole of WWII, and included many changes to the Merlin engine, then the installation of the more powerful Griffon engine, as well as the removal of the spine of the fuselage and creation of a bubble canopy to improve the pilot’s situational awareness. Its immediate successor was the Mk.II that had a better Merlin engine and higher octane fuel to give it a healthy boost in performance. The IIa was armed identically to the Mk.Ia with four .303s in each wing, while the IIb carried the two 20mm cannons of the Ib and two .303s in each of the wings. It was followed by the Mk.V that had yet another more powerful Merlin fitted, which returned the fright of the earlier marks’ first encounters with Fw.190s by a similar increase in performance from an outwardly almost identical Spitfire. The Kit This is a reboxing with additional parts of a recent tool from Eduard that has been released earlier, following on from their other later marks of the Spit in their usual manner, providing us modellers with a wide selection of types and sub-variants as they proceed through their launch schedule. This ProfiPACK depicts the late Mk.Vb, the letter B referring to the type of wing fitted to the airframe that was engineered to accommodate a pair of 20mm cannons within the area previously occupied by four .303 machine guns in earlier versions. This is a thoroughly modern tooling with immense detail squeezed into every part, and for the inveterate upgraders, the kits are moulded with that in mind, to be augmented by a raft of super-detailed resin and brass sets from Eduard themselves, which benefit from concurrent launch and excellent fit. The outer skin has been fully riveted with fine lines of rivets everywhere, plus different widths of engraved panel lines, fasteners on cowling panels, and even some lapped panels such as the fuel tank in front of the canopy. It arrives in Eduard’s ProfiPACK box featuring a gold banner, with five sprues in their grey/blue styrene, a clear sprue, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) that is nickel-plated and pre-painted, a sheet of pre-cut kabuki masking material (not pictured – they’re impossible to photograph well), a large decal sheet with separate stencil sheet, and the glossy instruction booklet with painting guide at the rear in full colour. It is nearly identical in terms of sprues to the earlier boxing that we reviewed, and the differences between the versions are fairly small, but you use alternative parts on the sprues for the cannons and for some decal options, plus the decals themselves. Construction begins with the cockpit, which will probably be familiar to most, although there is a huge amount of detail when it’s done the Eduard way. It is built up on the starboard sidewall insert, with equipment, controls and a choice of seat-carrying fuselage frames depending on which decal option you have chosen. The seat is next, having the flare rack at the front added from PE, as well as some nice painted PE seatbelts and rear armour. The control column is also made up, and has a PE trigger added before it and the flight control box (more of a tangle, really) are joined to the seat and inserted in the next two fuselage frames forward. The next frame forward holds the instrument panel, which can be made from plastic with decals, or the more realistic and detailed lamination of PE parts with those lovely glossy dial faces on a separate backing plate, either of which then glue to the frame, with the gunsight at the top of the panel, and the compass just below, then the rudder pedals are outfitted with PE straps, before being put just inside the footwell below the panel. Forward of that frame is a blanking plate that is glued in place along with the spinner back during the fuselage closure procedure. The socket for the tail wheel and the leading edge of the wing fairing are also glued in, with a 1mm hole drilled in the port side. The canopy will require small parts of the sidewalls removing to accommodate the appropriate glazing, so make sure you cut those parts off too. They slip in a mention of a panel line on the very front of the nose that you need to fill in, so don’t forget that one, as it’s called out with a line and the word “fill” during the attachment to the wings later on that is easy to miss, but you might want to deal with that while sorting the fuselage seams. The lower wing is a single part that stretches as far as the clipped wingtip would be, and there are two pairs of small holes that need drilling out on both undersides before you go any further. A long wing spar bridges the gap between the wheel bay cut-outs, then the rest of the bay walls are made out of short sections and just the two outer wing-gun barrels per side are dropped into their slots ready for closing up, then placing the fuselage into the gap and gluing it home. The empennage is next, with separate elevator fins and flying surfaces, plus the rudder and its control link. Back to the wings, and the elliptical tips or clipped alternatives (depending on your decal choice) are slid into place along with the ailerons, the latter you can pose deflected if you wish. Staying with the wing, the model is flipped over, and the radiator, oil cooler and chin intake with fairing are all added in, the radiator and oil cooler both having PE mesh inserts, L-shaped feeder pipes at the rear, and a flap with two actuators for open and closed positions. The narrow track landing gear has replacement PE details fixed to the leg after removing the plastic representation, and these then have the captive doors attached to the rear, and wheels made up from a tyre and two hub parts, with a split yoke and wheel for the tail, which slots into the socket buried in the fuselage earlier. The 20mm cannon parts simply slide into their sockets in the leading edge of the wings, with nice muzzle detail moulded-in. The canopy has a choice of PE or styrene rear-view mirror on the windscreen, and a choice of open or closed canopies with a PE pull-handle in the top. The fixed rear glazing is fitted first for the open option, but is moulded into the closed canopy for better fit on a closed up cockpit. The locations for the masks are shown in a diagram at the end of the instructions, using liquid mask for highly curved areas of the blown canopy, and it’s worth noting here that the masks cover BOTH sides of the glazing, usually called Tface when sold separately. The cockpit door can be mounted open or closed, then the aerial is glued to the rear of the canopy on a base, two small holes are opened up on the upper wing for the PE landing gear markers, with a fuel filler cap on the cowling in front of the windscreen. The exhaust stacks have been moulded carefully to give hollow tips with a choice of two styles, and the prop is a single part, covered front and back by the two-part stubby or pointed spinner, with the peg on the rear sliding into the front of the fuselage. The final steps show two aerial wires from the fuselage sides to the elevators, which you will need to provide from your own toolbox. Markings There are a generous six marking options from the box, including Ocean Grey and Dark Green camo with various personalisations, plus one in dark blue and grey/green mixture that you must mix yourself from two Gunze shades, the numbers for which are provided. From the box you can build one of the following: EP120 S/Ldr Geoffrey W Northcott, Co of 402 Sqn. RCAF, RAF Merston, Jun-Nov 1943 AB276 F/Lt Václav Hájek, 313 (Czechoslovak) Sqn., RAF Hornchurch, Jan-Jun 1942 AB184 Sgt. Olav Dionne, 332 (Norwegian) Sqn., RAF North Weald, Aug 1942 EN794, S/Ldr Yvan du Monceau de Bergendal, 350 (Belgian) Sqn., RAF Redhill, Jul-Dec 1942 AA853 W/Cdr Stefan Witorzenc, 1 Polish Fighter Wing, RAF Heston, early Jul 1942 EP829 S/Ldr John J Lynch, 249 Sqn., RAF Krendi, Malta, Apr-May 1943 The decals are printed by Eduard and are in good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The stencils are on a separate sheet, and are marked on a page of the booklet, separate from the rest of the markings to avoid confusion from trying to read overly busy diagrams. Don’t forget that as of 2021, the carrier film from Eduard decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier-free, making the decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view. Conclusion There are always some moans about "yet another" Spitfire model, but other people’s kits don’t make money for Eduard, and they do it their own unique (and impressive) way. They’ve done a great job of these earlier Merlin-powered marks, and the detail is excellent from the box, with nothing else needed to create a great replica other than paint and glue, a little bit of fine wire or line for the aerials, and some of your own hard work. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  23. OV-10D+ Upgrade Sets (for ICM) 1:48 Eduard All praise ICM for providing us with a modern quarter scale OV-10 Bronco over the last few years, with so many variants that there can’t be all that many options that aren’t yet catered for – maybe a Luftwaffe one would be nice? I know at least one sale they’d make there. The current latest is the OV-10D+, which saw some of the most recent use by the US Marines after upgrading from earlier models. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48062) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The seats are upgraded first with PE seatbelts for both crew members plus other detail updates including rudder pedals and ejector handles, then the focus shifts to the extensive and highly visible instrument panels, side consoles and equipment boxes within the cockpit, which are incredibly well-detailed and are in 3D relief that is much more appealing than flat PE or moulded-in styrene. More equipment is added to the windscreen interior by way of a 3D printed panel, with traditional PE added to the inside of the four expansive side windows, which should be painted before installation as they will be seen through the glazing once complete. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1265) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles to the side of the pilot's knees that gets them out of there in case of an emergency. Masks (EX846) Supplied on two sheets of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curves in the roof glazing handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. Masks Tface (EX847) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. They will be especially effective when used in conjunction with the PE details added to the windows as mentioned in the above SPACE set. Review sample courtesy of
  24. My entry will be Eduards 1/48 MiG-21MFN representing an aircraft if the Czech Republic in a special scheme marking 45 Years of AFB Caslav. It’s got stripes and a tigers head, what’s not to like. Wont’t be starting for a while as I need to make some progress on my entry in the F-18 STGB.
  25. I've finally finished this one after a brief hiatus of about a year while I moved flat and got my new work space set up. Possibly the most challenging kit I've built, and I had lots of fun trying to do the brass etch and resin justice. Some of it even made it to where it was supposed to be without pinging off the tweezers into the ether. I think it was worth it though, especially the details on the ejector seats. I messed up a couple of things. The angle of the main undercarriage is not right, because the Academy/Eduard kit has you assemble the bay walls from individual pieces and attach the main legs to these quite early in the build, so it's difficult to see how everything is supposed to line up. The decal for the "2293" ID number on the starboard side folded over itself and ended up looking a bit squashed, and I couldn't get the pin-wash for the panel lines to flow as well as I'd like - I think the varnish coat was a bit too thick for the engraved detail. Anyway, I imagine you'd like to see some pictures... Half of a build thread here:
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