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Found 9 results

  1. Trumpeter 1/350 HMS Dreadnought in a scratchbuilt Portsmouth dry dock number 15. PE by WEM including the cage aerial cages, 12pdr's, searchlights and figures by Northstar, resin planks and crates from l'Arsenal. Main gun barrels from Master Barrels. Extra cutters missing from the kit from the Shapeways. The dockside cranes are also 3d printed from my own design. Rigging a mixture of Caenis and Uschi line. Sign by Paul Boyle at http://www.pbmodelmaking.co.uk/ Build WIP here; Thanks to everyone who followed the WIP and provided help and advice along the way, particularly Dave Swindell and Kris - can't believe you got your's finished before me Kris Pics are a mixture of phone and DLSR, outdoors and then in cos it started raining Few detailed views; Guys mopping the deck watched by a PO; These chaps are in trouble for something; Whilst the lucky 3 leaving the ship with bags are going on leave; And these poor buggers are loading stores onto the ship, watched by the dockyard workers; Cranes doing craney stuff; An officer being ferried over by cutter; And the Captain surveying his empire; Hope you like it, any comments gratefully received. Cheers Nick I've taken a few more pics, the idea being to use a more realistic angle and try and date some to look like period photo's; Cheers Nick
  2. Nick Charnock

    Flags in drydock

    I'm currently building a 1/350 HMS Dreadnought in a dry dock diorama. I'd like to add some colour with flags and I've seen pics taken from the head of the dock with of the Union Jack still flying as she's moving into the drydock but I'm not sure when they'd be struck. The diorama has the dock drained - any chance the flags would still be flying? Any ideas or help gratefully received. Cheers Nick
  3. Nick Charnock

    1/350 HMS Dreadnought

    Time to start a new project; 1/350 HMS Dreadnought with White Ensign & Eduard PE and some resin detail from North Star; and Master barrels; Replacement resin guns from North star; And 24" searchlight for the fore mast, the kit provides a 36" which is incorrect; Made a start, first bit is to correct the port holes and hatches on the port bow area; Add these 2 port holes; Remove this hatch and add another pothole below the hatch on the upper deck; And add a new hatch in the correct position - hopefully a more accurate depiction of the real thing; Name on the stern from the WEM PE before joining the hull halves. There are photos of the ship with the name originally below the upper line of port holes captioned as 1905 and later,1908 above, I'm not sure when the name was moved but went for above the port holes; 1905 1908 Thanks for looking Cheers Nick
  4. Hi all, Currently I'm building the Zvezda Dreadnought kit. I have one question for the experts: does anyone know which hull strakes are recessed and which are raised? I only need that information for the hull above waterline. Is the below info (recessed/raised) correct? The John Roberts book (Anatomy of the ship Dreadnought) doesn't give a clear answer. Any response would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Introduction Time for my first WIP-contribution to this forum. It regards a 1/350 HMS Dreadnought by Zvezda, with aftermarket stuff from Pontos and WEM. Scratchwork beside the aftermarket stuff will be plentiful. For reference purposes I mainly use John Roberts' magnificent book "The Battleship Dreadnought - Anatomy of the ship" featuring hundreds of drawings. Beside that I use old photographs from a Dreadnought photo DVD that can be purchased and Kagero's 3D-book and drawing, although the latter are not a reliable source. My impression of the kit Zvezda have done a great job on some aspects such as certain detailing, not so good of others. The biggest problem is that Zvezda have copied the port and starboard sides of the hull: to be exact, the starboard side is mirrored onto the port side. This is thoroughly incorrect as the layout of ports and side scuttles ('portholes') on respective sides are anything but symmetrical. The only thing differing the Zvezda port from starboard is the single hawsepipe (port) vs. the double hawsepipe on starboard. By the way if you think that's a good reason to choose a Trumpeter Dreadnought, think again; that kit has exactly the same flaw. Quite the coincidence, obviously. The problem that Zvezda faced when they were engineering this kit must have been that there are no drawings available of the ship's port side. Plenty of pictures though and on pages 79-87 of the Roberts book there are very precise drawings showing the position of the side scuttles and ports on both sides. My impression of the literature Roberts' book is simply excellent in almost every way. One should use this as a primary source of reference if desiring to scratchbuild this ship. I have not seen any obvious mistakes in the book thus far. Kagero's book is very nice but not for recreating the hull. Like Zvezda and Trumpeter, they have not based their drawing on Roberts' drawings but, rather, seem to have made estimations based on pictures. Comparing Roberts' drawings and Kagero's book to real photographs, it is understandable that certain mistakes were made by Kagero, but still it's a shame (also for their own efforts) because they have done such an amazing job on the 3D-rendering. I recommend using both books (Kagero's to a certain extent as mentioned) and I also recommend purchasing the picture DVD. It features more than 50 photographs of HMS Dreadnought I had not found via Google. This topic I usually take a lot of pictures and describe almost everything I do. I know some of you will like that, others will not. As this is my first WIP-topic on this forum I'll just try to design this topic as I usually do and see what you'll think of it. If my elaborateness is not much desired I'll keep it more compact next time. I started building this ship about a year ago but not much visual progress was made due to the above-mentioned problems. Actually, the only visible progress is 'going back to basic' as I sanded the two hull sides flat. Of course, at first I didn't see Zvezda's errors. Then I followed Kagero's plans, then I found out that also Kagero's plans are faulty, etc. etc. Other builds have also interfered with this one. Many, many mistakes were made and corrected. I always describe my own errors, hoping that others will learn from them. Time spent on the Dreadnought before the following picture was taken: 97 hours. Number of pictures taken and described until then: 117. Let's start from that point! Oh yes.. as a non-native speaker mistakes in language can be made. I'd very much appreciate it if you guys correct me if I use certain terms incorrectly. The build 118. Originally I didn't know how to make the cone-shaped relief at the hawsepipe. So I decided to move that relief a few millimeters. Starting by drilling a hole. 119. Removal of the part by using a microsaw and a sharp hobby knife. 120. After the amputation. 121. Filing the plastic a bit towards the designated position, then glueing both parts together (some pieces of Evergreen are added, not yet installed when the picture was taken). 122. Gluing the brass sheet onto the polystyrene. Secure with a plastic modeling support. 123. Making the next piece of brass sheet (toward 'P' barbette). The impressions are where the side scuttles should be drilled (1 mm.). 124. Holes are drilled into the plastic. 125. And then I started anew (yet again), because the two pieces of brass sheet didn't connect / align. Something just wasn't right... It obviously had something to do with the troublesome mathematics involved in calculating the sizes and lengths. Without the use of a 3D-model the lengths are virtually impossible to calculate for someone with limited math skills such as myself. A hull has two curvatures: horizontal and vertical. Because of that, calculating the lengths of sheet or distances between side scuttles is almost impossible. On top of that, certain horizontal lines which I thought to be dead straight turned out to be slightly curved. Time to say goodbye to (some) calculations, as on 1/350 a deviation of merely a tenth of a millimeter is visible. After some deliberations I decided to try to tackle this in a different, more thorough, way. I followed the following step by step-plan: 1) Sideview drawing: measure distances flying deck -> sea level, every 5 resp. 10 millimeter along the hull, accuracy 1/100th of a millimeter. 2) Sideview drawing: measure distances high deck -> sea level, every 5 resp. 10 millimeter along the hull, accuracy 1/100th of a millimeter. 3) Sideview drawing: measure all distances regarding armor plates (4 lines horizontal along the full length of the hull, 4 lines vertical). 4) Draw all other objects such as side scuttles, ports, hawsepipe etc. and measure their heights as well as horizontal position from bow. 5) Multiplying all values *1,097 (scale 1/350) and adding 2,75 millimeter due to raised height -> Zvezda apparently added 2,75 millimeters to the sea level line along the length of the hull. 6) Top view drawing: measure distances of all side scuttles (port side), top row and bottom row. Multiplying by 1,097. 7) Positioning the brass sheet onto the model and scratching every individual spot into the brass with an electronic marking gauge. This way, a sort of puzzle evolves, which needs to be carved out and on which holes are to be drilled. Hereunder I illustrate these things through photographs. To start, I attach the brass sheet and measure it. 126. Working with two rules simultaneously. 127. Scratching the lines. Where there were height differences between two impressions, scratching was performed, for example, by moving the gauge from left to right and at the same time lightly and gradually rotating the gauge. 128. Due to copyright reasons I cannot show (parts) of the drawings featuring measurements. Quite of few of them are present, it was a lot of work. 129. Interim score: a couple of lines were drawn. 130. I don't often need my outside caliper, but now it comes in very handy! Using it, the contours of the bow could be perfectly scratched into the brass. 131. The construction on the following picture needs some explanation. I used it to mark the horizontal position of the side scuttles and ports on the brass sheet. 1) Ruler is attached by tape to table, perpendicular to table ('work bench') side. 2) Hull is also on table, along table side so perpendicular to ruler, also taped to the table. 3) Electronic marking gauge (I'll hereinafter call that simply 'gauge') is used parallel to the ruler on one side and equal to the ruler on the other side. That way, a 'sideview-straightness' is created. 4) If according to the drawing 100 millimeters behind the bow a side scuttle is present, that number must be multiplied by 1,097. The gauge is extended to 109,7 millimeter and is positioned over the ruler (which is taped onto the table). Where the extended arm of the gauge touches the hull, I mark a little dot using a 0,3mm. fineliner. 5) Using a folding knife (see photo) or ruler, a vertical line kan be drawn. Somewhere along that line the side scuttle will be drilled. The height will be determined later. 6) To keep an overview of the situation, I number the side scuttles and ports. This makes for a precise measurement as ruler and ship are perpendicular and solidly taped to the table, plus all measurements are based on the Roberts' drawings. 132. Marking with the fineliner. 133. Current status. 134. Markings are where the side scuttle holes should be drilled: simply measured on the drawing, multiplied by 1,097 and 2,75 millimeters added. 135. And this is what it looks like after -finally- the brass is detached from the hull. Beside measurements, it took about 5 hours to prepare this piece for carving and drilling. Very excited and slightly nervous... I can't make any mistake now or I have to restart yet again! 136. Meanwhile I have learned how to make a cone shape in brass... by using a 0,5mm. metal drill on a Boschhammer machine ! I tried to drill a hole but it just didn't work. Everytime I tried I got a cone. At one point I thought... hey, wait a minute! This is exactly what I need! Still, practice is necessary. To make a nice round cone I had to practice a couple of times, scrapping quite a bit of brass sheet . 137. The scratches will be deepened and thereafter bent back and forth, so that the sheet will eventually break along the fold lines. 138. Drilling was done -as you can imagine- extremely carefully. I really couldn't afford to make any mistake. 139. On the next picture (don't mind the bent cone) you can see the peculiar way the heights of the side scuttles vary. Only by the curvature of the hull and the sheet (when attached to the hull), it will appear straight. But this result I could never have attained by calculating only... 140. Filing the backside of the brass in order to make it nice and flat, makes for two accessory advantages: it creates grip for the glue to 'bite' and it nicely precurves the sheet. 141. This time it (logically) fits. Nevertheless for me it is marvelous to see this result after so much work (most of which is not discussed in this first post). 142. To demonstrate the size, in comparison with a 1/24 scale Krupp Titan-engine, see the next picture. Also the reinstated cone is visible here. Spent time thus far: 113.
  6. Ingo Degenhardt

    Cage Aerials help needed

    Hi, I have my Trumpeter Dreadnought nearly finished but am still struggling with the cage aerials. I tried the WEM set but first failed using their star shaped spreaders and now have started rigging up the round ones included - I am not too happy with my efforts. Main problem is that all the kinds of spreaders only have these little groves for the thread and I just cannot get that rigged up straight and proper. I have now seen the Dreadnought set by North Star models on the net and it seems to have correct spreaders (star shape, eight 'arms') but the online image is not clear enough to show wether they have only a groove at each arm's end or a 'real' hole for the thread to drive through - which I consider would make things much easier. Does anyone know? An enquiry about this has not yet been answered by NS models. TIA Ingo
  7. HMS Dreadnought 1907 Eduard 1:350 The release of the Trumpeter HMS Dreadnought was most welcome; although it didn’t come as much of a surprise as the Zvezda kit it was still very welcome. Trumpeter have since released a later version, but these two sets of etched brass from Eduard are for the 1907 version. (53091) This single sheet set may not be as comprehensive as some other manufacturers releases, but it will certainly add some nice fine detail for those who don’t want, or require any more than this to detail their model. The sheet contains the standard items found in most releases, such as new hatch covers and deckhouses, vertical and inclined ladders. In addition there are also new turret roofs, complete with railings, new bridge railings, bridge wing supports and bridge house, steam pipes for both funnels, ropewalks for the yardarms and replacement cockpits for the ships boats. The compass platform on the quarterdeck is also replaced with a very complex and rather challenging structure which will look great if done correctly. The railing set, (53094) by its very nature provides a full set of ships railings each, designed to fit in their respective positions. Conclusion Yet another nice set from Eduard which will go some way to making a very nice model of the Dreadnought into a great model. Apart from one or two challenging structures, it shouldn’t be too taxing for any modeller who has some experience of using photo etched parts. Recommended Review sample courtesy of
  8. HMS Dreadnought 1915 1/350 Trumpeter History HMS Dreadnought was an 18,110-ton battleship built at Portsmouth Dockyard. She represented one of the most notable design transformations of the armored warship era. Her "all-big-gun" main battery of ten twelve-inch guns, steam turbine powerplant and 21-knot maximum speed so thoroughly eclipsed earlier types that subsequent battleships were commonly known as "dreadnoughts", and the previous ones disparaged as "pre-dreadnoughts". The swiftness of her construction was equally remarkable. Laid down in October 1905, she was launched in February 1906, after only four months on the ways. Dreadnought was commissioned for trials a year after her keel was laid and was completed in December 1906. The new battleship served as Flagship of the Home Fleet in 1907-1912 and remained part of that fleet thereafter. Dreadnought served with the 4th Battle Squadron in the North Sea during the first two years of World War I. On 18 March 1915, while so employed, she rammed and sank the German Submarine U-29. From May 1916, Dreadnought was flagship of the 3rd Battle Squadron, based on the Thames to counter the threat of bombardment by German battlecruisers. Placed in reserve in 1919, the once-revolutionary warship was sold for scrapping in 1922. The Model The model comes in the standard Trumpeter sturdy top opening box with a colourful depiction of the Dreadnought a mooring buoy on the lid. Inside you are confronted with nine sprues of grey styrene, two separate deck pieces, the two hull halves, four sheets of etched brass, a length of metal anchor chain, (which will need to be painted in the correct colour) and a small decal sheet. All the parts are cleanly moulded with no signs of distortion and no flash, although there are a number of moulding pips, but not as many as some models I’ve seen. Unfortunately for those who like to build their ships waterline the kit comes in full hull option only and unlike the Zvezda kit doesn't even come with an internal cut line. The hull shape matches well the plans and diagrams in the Anatomy of a Ship book which, considering their sometimes hit and miss approach, Trumpeter should be commended for. The decks are made up of the single piece main deck and the separate foredeck. There are a large number of indentations in the main deck which look like ejection pin marks, but don't worry these are for the numerous mushroom vents the ship was fitted with. Planking is a little bit artificial looing but under a a coat of paint should look ok. Due to the small number of moulded deck houses the deck painting shouldn't be too much of a chore, although there is always the option of using the wooden decks that are soon to be released for this kit. During the period which this kit represents the anti torpedo nets may have been landed as they were proving less and less useful, and also forced the ship to reduce speed considerably. The booms though were kept for another year when they were removed in the refit of 1916. So the ship can actually be modelled both with and without nets, although since they are not provided in the kit the only option of providing them is to buy the Pontos set. Construction begins with the two hull halves being joined together. To enable a strong and stiff hull there are six bulkheads and a stern pin. Throughout the build sequences there are small sub assemblies built, not necessarily in a useful order. Thus it may be an idea to build as many of these sub-assemblies at the beginning and fit them when called for. The foredeck is fitted with two PE supports aft and three bulkheads foreward, just aft of A turret. The main deck is fitted to the hull whilst on the underside the four propeller shafts, supports and propellers are attached along with the two rudders and the bilge keels. As with other sub-assemblies the fore and aft funnels are assembled, complete with PE funnel caps. According to the instructions items such as the thirteen 12pdr guns, windlasses, deckhouses, derricks and other parts are fitted before the whole deck is attached to the hull/maindeck, but it would be best to add these after the deck had been fitted to prevent damage and loss. Assuming this, the shelter deck and ships boat cradles are fitted along with two more 12pdrs, searchlights, cable reels, and ammunition lockers are attached. The bridge structure is made up of four parts, onto which the upper PE railings ate attached, as are the compass binnacles, signal lamps and a small shelter structure. On the underside the bridge supports are added. Still on the foredeck, PE items are fitted, these include inclined ladders, grilles and shutters. Once the foretop has been assembled the supports star can been added. To this the yardarms and topmast is fitted, the foremast is attached to the bridge and the foretop assembly attached to the top of the foremast. With the bridge in position along with the foremast and it's attendant supports the fore funnel sub-assembly can be fitted into position. The five turrets are then built up out the single turret, two 12" gun barrels. On top of each turret, three sighting positions and two platforms are attached. Only four of the five turrets have the twin 12 pdr mounts fitted, with A turret the odd one out. The rear spotting structure is also assembled at this point Each of the seven ships rowing boats have separate rudders, but no other embellishments. The three steam pinnaces each have a separate rudder, deck and funnel. When these boats are complete the can be fitted to their respective cradles and supports. As mentioned above there are numerous mushroom vents on the main deck and these can now be fitted, followed by the anti-torpedo net booms, anchors, davits, three 12pdr guns on the quarter deck and the ensign staff. There is the option of having two accommodation ladders depicted in the lowered position, one amidships on the starboard side and one on the port quarter. The five turrets, rear spotting structure, PE name plates on each quarter and the Jack staff are fitted. There are a number of stove pipes that are positioned around the superstructure, but you will need to check your references for the date of construction your build depicts, as these were only fitted during the winter. Finally there are thirty eight PE parts that are presumed to represent the tie-point for the anti-torpedo net wires. Decals The small sheet of decals provides the Union Jack and Naval Ensign in both straight and wavy form and the ships name plates. Please note, and it's a common fault in models, the Ensign and Union Jack are not flown at sea, only in harbour. There may be a smaller Ensign flown form the mainmast should yuo wish to depict the model at sea, but you'll have to provide your own. Conclusion This is a super model of the most important ship of its age. Trumpeter have done superb job on this kit and deserve a cheer for getting not only the shape of the hull right, but also the details that differentiate this from their earlier 1907 kit. The only downside is that they don't appear to have provided enough railings to cover the ship, especially as they provide some, they might as well gone the whole hog and provided them all. While there is nothing too taxing in the build the rigging is something else, particularly with the wire spreaders, although these are available along with several PE sets from the aftermarket companies should you not wish to try and make them yourselves. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. HMS Dreadnought Kagero Super Drawings in 3D HMS Dreadnought was a battleship of the Royal Navy that revolutionised naval power. Her entry into service in 1906 represented such a marked advance in naval technology that her name came to be associated with an entire generation of battleships, the "dreadnoughts", as well as the class of ships named after her, while the generation of ships she made obsolete became known as "pre-dreadnoughts". She was the sixth ship of that name in the Royal Navy. Admiral Sir John "Jacky" Fisher, First Sea Lord of the Board of Admiralty, is credited as the father of the Dreadnought. Shortly after he assumed office he ordered design studies for a battleship armed solely with 12-inch guns and a speed of 21 knots. He convened a "Committee on Designs" to evaluate the alternative designs and to assist in the detailed design process. One ancillary benefit of the Committee was that it would shield him, and the Admiralty, from political charges that they had not consulted leading experts before designing such a radically different battleship. Dreadnought was the first battleship of her era to have a uniform main battery, rather than having a few large guns complemented by a heavy secondary battery of somewhat smaller guns. She was also the first capital ship to be powered by steam turbines, making her the fastest battleship in the world at the time of her completion. Her launch helped spark a major naval arms race as navies around the world, particularly the German Imperial Navy rushed to match her in the build-up to World War I. From 1907–1911, Dreadnought served as flagship of the Royal Navy's Home Fleet. In 1910, she attracted the attention of notorious hoaxer Horace de Vere Cole, who persuaded the Royal Navy to arrange for a party of Abyssinian royals to be given a tour of a ship. In reality, the "Abyssinian royals" were some of Cole's friends in blackface and disguise, including a young Virginia Woolf and her Bloomsbury Group friends; it became known as the Dreadnought hoax. Cole had picked Dreadnought because she was at that time the most prominent and visible symbol of Britain's naval might. She was replaced as flagship of the Home Fleet by HMS Neptune in March 1911 and was assigned to the 1st Division of the Home Fleet. She participated in King George V's Coronation Fleet Review in June 1911. Dreadnought became flagship of the 4th Battle Squadron in December 1912 after her transfer from the 1st Battle Squadron, as the 1st Division had been renamed earlier in the year. Between September and December 1913 she was training in the Mediterranean Sea. At the outbreak of World War I in 1914, she was flagship of the 4th Battle Squadron in the North Sea, based at Scapa Flow. She was relieved as flagship on 10 December by HMS Benbow. Ironically for a vessel designed to engage enemy battleships, her only significant action was the ramming and sinking of German submarine SM U-29, skippered by K/Lt Otto Weddigen (of SM U-9 fame), on 18 March 1915. U-29 had broken the surface immediately ahead of Dreadnought after firing a torpedo at HMS Neptune and Dreadnought cut the submarine in two after a short chase. She almost collided with HMS Temeraire who was also attempting to ram. Dreadnought thus became the only battleship ever to sink a submarine. She was refitting from 18 April to 22 June 1916 and missed the Battle of Jutland on 31 May, the most significant fleet engagement of the war. Dreadnought became flagship of the 3rd Battle Squadron on 9 July, based at Sheerness on the Thames, part of a force of pre-dreadnoughts intended to counter the threat of shore bombardment by German battlecruisers. During this time she fired her AA guns at German aircraft that passed over her headed for London. She returned to the Grand Fleet in March 1918, resuming her role as flagship of the Fourth Battle Squadron, but was paid off in July to begin another refit. Dreadnought was put into reserve at Rosyth in February 1919. Dreadnought was put up for sale on 31 March 1920 and sold for scrap to T.W. Ward & Company on 9 May 1921 for the sum of £44,000. She was broken up at Ward's new premises at Inverkeithing, Scotland, upon arrival on 2 January 1923. This is the third of this series that this reviewer has had to review recently and they still don’t disappoint. This title begins with eight pages of history, design philosophy, building and the career of this great ship. This is followed by fifty eight pages of the fabulous 3D drawings that these books are renowned for. It should be noted that all the drawings are of the ship as she was in 1907, so hopefully there will be another book with Dreadnought in her later modification states. As usual every part of ship is covered in the drawings. They are all very detailed and will be a boon to the modeller, particularly if they are using one of the amazing etched detail sets that are available. At the time, the Dreadnought was equipped with an anti torpedo net system that could be rigged even when at sea, although the speed was heavily restricted. Some of the drawings in the book show the ship with the nets rigged allowing the modeller to see exactly how the booms were spread and the cables that attached them to the ship. If you’re prepared to do a fair bit of rigging then these will be invaluable. Alternatively there are drawings showing how the nets and booms were stowed on what was known as the net shelf. Unlike most of the other books the majority of drawings aren’t annotated, which is a shame as they can be useful in identifying the part of ship and the equipment shown in the drawing. That said though the drawings should be pretty self explanatory to the majority of maritime modellers. To bring a maritime model alive it really needs to have railings and rigging. Both of these items are well represented in this book along with the awning stantions, although the awnings themselves aren’t shown it shouldn’t take too much to work out how they are fitted. The rigging in the diagrams are particularly useful, especially showing where and how the various halliards, standing rigging and aerials are attached and how the aerial spreaders are spaced. Also included is a double sided A2 sheet with five view plans, (Port, Starboard, Above, Bow and Stern), in both 1:350 and 1:700 scale on one side. On the other side there are more detailed plans of the main gun turrets, 12 pdr mounts, all the ships boats, (32ft Cutter, 45ft Steam Pinnace, 42ft launch, 40ft Admirals Barge, 27ft Whaler, 23ft Gig and 16ft Dinghy), all in 1:100 scale except for the 12pdr plans which are in 1:50. Also on this side is a drawing of the starboard side of the ship but with a slightly higher viewing angle, which not only gives a better plan view of the rigging but also of the rigged anti-torpedo nets. Conclusion This is another superb book in the series. Doing a few of these in a row does make it difficult to express how good these books are in different ways, but they really are superb. The drawings are so clear and so detailed it’s like you took a photo on the ship itself and the detailed plans on the pull out sheet would look great hung on the wall in front of your modelling desk as you build. If you’re a maritime modeller and you want to build a 1907 HMS Dreadnought then you must get this book and some detail sets to really go to town on and make yourself a museum quality model. Review sample courtesy of
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