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Found 121 results

  1. Aside from brass or aluminum rods what would make some good support material for suspending a “flying” model to be displayed on? Hoping for as close to invisible as can be achieved and will want to support one or more small models from a large model. (Imagine small space ships in flight around a large space ship that’s hanging in the air from wires.
  2. Well, the title sums it up, I'm going to display my 1/350 HMS Warspite on a sea base moored to a bouy (based on photo's of her in Valetta harbour) but there seems to be no single way that battleships were moored. So as my nautical experience only stretches to yachts under 50ft I have several questions - 1) Some photo's seem to show a main anchor chain to the buoy, others seem to show a cable, is there a preference? 2) other pictures then show chains descending from the extreme of the prow into the water but what to? They seem under tension so must go to something. 3) Would there be a stern line to another buoy to hold the ship in position? Yachts usually swing with the tide or wind but several hundred feet of battleship is something else. Again pictures are not clear or consistent. 4) Would keeping an anchor ready to trip if things went awry be a standard procedure? My Googlefoo hasn't brought up any manuals online. Of course I could make it all up and no one who is likely to see the finished article would be the wiser but the detail fetishist in me wants to get it right, so I hope there is someone out there versed in mooring a big ship! Dave
  3. Dioramas! Never made one but I've seen a couple of short videos on YouTube about them, and the seem quite involved to say the least. I'm going to be looking for a few, and specifically a circular RAF dispersal pan from WW2 for a Heavy Bomber in 1/72 and 1/48 scales. I was wondering, what is available out there, made and ready to go? I have seen the sort of flat rectangular cardboard types (not really a fan of these), but what do people know about others with texture, foliage and a little bit of undulation etc? I was also wondering if there are companies, or people on here that will commission and create dioramas to a clients request? What experience do people here have with either of these avenues and the cost implications? Would be great to see some images from anyone that has made or bought some of these dioramas!
  4. Garage Workshop (35596) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Garage workshops are places where you'll find tons of tools, shelves, tool boxes and all sorts, usually covered in muck and rust. During WWII garages sometimes got overrun by troops or pressed into use as temporary military workshops, and if they weren't co-opted to help the military they were likely to be used by the few vehicles still running during a period where fuel was usually a scarce commodity due to the needs of the military. The Kit This set arrives in a small shrink-wrapped top-opening box and inside are 14 sprues in grey styrene, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a small decal sheet and an instruction sheet printed on both sides of a glossy A4 sheet. As well as a few instructions for the more complicated assemblies there are also posters printed in colour that can be cut out and stuck to the walls of your intended diorama, plus a colour rendering from the box art pointing out all the parts, their colours and where to place the decals on some of the cans and containers. Some of the sprues will be familiar if not identical to others from this range and there are a wide selection of items to populate your model. From the box you can build the following: 2 x fuel drums, one ribbed, the other with two ribs 1 x manual pump unit 1 x jack-stand 1 x bench-mounted grinder with two wheels 1 x pillar drill 1 x wooden tool box 1 x 2-man wood saw 1 x anvil 2 x bench vice (2 types) 3 x square fuel can of various sizes 1 x triangular profile oil can 1 x compressor 1 x hand saw 1 x box plane 1 x hacksaw 1 x blow lamp 1 x dining seat and stool 2 x 5-shelf storage unit 1 x large 8 drawer cupboard on short legs 2 x tool box, one open, one closed with a styrene and PE toolkit and PE lid There are various other small hand tools such as clamps, hammers, wrenches, oil cans and other cans dotted around the sprues and there are some decals for the cans as per the instructions. The larger assemblies are covered in the instructions and have many parts that result in faithful representations of the original that would be difficult to create yourself, but now you don't have to. Markings There are a few decals on the small sheet with their locations shown on the instructions. The various posters, 24 in total, range from car adverts through propaganda posters and even one tiny picture of a bathing scantily clad lady that is too small to make out any details. They're all in different languages too, so there will probably be one for most locations, within reason. Conclusion Another useful set from MiniArt, and even if you're not going to use them for an actual garage diorama, there's a lot of fodder for your models. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Made a slight oopsie with this one. Forgot to put the marker lights on the side, then thought I'd lost them. Luckily, rediscovered them (phew) and will install later. Until now, here's the diorama I put together with the Meng 1/35 Tigr-M and Zvezda's 1/35 Modern Russian Infantry Thanks for looking, Gaz
  6. Star Wars Hangar Crew & Equipment Vo.IV (72004 & 07219-1/72) 1:72 Greenstrawberry You've probably heard of Star Wars just like you've also probably heard of Bandai, so if you put those two together you've probably also heard of GreenStrawberry and if you haven't you're about to, so prepare your wallet for a shock when you see all the lovely sets that are available. GS as I call them for my ease produce all sorts of accessories and detail upgrades for Sci-Fi subjects in general and Star Wars is one that features heavily on their menu. This latest batch of sets are great for the diorama builder that wants to put their ships into a human scale on the ground, and we reviewed the first issue here a while back, which is now augmented by these new sets. Each set arrives in a small black-themed card box with CGI rendered sticker on the front showing the contents. Inside the resin is ziplok bagged and has a small instruction sheet where appropriate. Hangar Crew Vol.IV (72004) Three figures are included in this set, each of them attached by the soles of their boots to their casting blocks and their arms standing up by their sides, all surrounded by wafer-thin supports to aid the ingress of resin and egress of bubbles. There are also some wisps of resin adhering to the parts where the moulds have been split, and these can be removed with your fingertip or a sharp blade. These folks are all pilots dashing to their ships, presumably during a squadron scramble, and are in action poses as befits the occasion. Two are running, one of which is adjusting his helmet as he goes, and the third figure is clambering up his boarding ladder with the usual butt-out pose adopted to balance while climbing aboard. Only the helmet-adjuster has his arms moulded in place, so there is some room for adaptation of their arms to suit your needs, which might be useful for the ladder climbing chap. Hangar Equipment Vo.IV (07219-1/72) Like the previous sets, this one includes a set of five boxes of various types and sizes and you will have seen a couple of those in previous sets if you've been paying attention. There are two rounded-edge boxes with horizontal lines engraved in their sides, a flat stackable box with an irregular outline, a box with fluted protective vanes all over it, and finally a pack of four cylinders on a palette. Very useful for background clutter that accumulates on even the most fastidiously clean hangar decks and gives a diorama that lived-in look. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Got another one. This was actually my original Division diorama idea that I finally put together. The vehicle and figures (once again) were painted up some time ago. I just decided to bite the bullet and do the snow Enjoy Thanks for looking ^-^ Gaz
  8. German Road Signs WWII – France 1944 (35600) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd During WWII German forces renamed and re-signposted their conquests, partly through necessity but also to stake their claim and remind the subjugated masses that they were under German control. This set is full of signs of this nature, and includes military signs to guide their troops to rally points, service areas and so forth as they didn't have the luxury of GPS and satnav back then, which is probably just as well. The set arrives in a shrink-wrapped figure box with a painting of the contents on the front and brief instructions on the rear. There are three medium-sized sprues in grey styrene in the box, plus a decal sheet on thick paper that contains all the painted descriptive fronts of the signs. As well as the signs themselves there are a number of posts on which to hang then, one of which is a two-part telegraph pole with ceramic insulators on short metal arms from which you can hang wires loose as shown in the diagrams, or taut if you have something to attach them to. Each sign is either metal or moulded with a restrained wooden texture that will show through the decals if you use decal solution during drying. Some of the larger signs are also made from a few planks, so the joins will also show through the decal. On the sprue that contains the pole there are also additional undocumented parts for poles and such, which you could also press into service if you can figure out how to put them together. There are forty two signs so there will be a few decals left over, and on the back of the box you can see a few examples of these make-shift signs pinned in groups to the various posts, but it's entirely up to you how you lay them out. Conclusion Dioramas rely on the minutiae of the background to give that "lived in" look to the terrain, and signage is essential for all but the straightest of roads. The addition of the telegraph pole gives extra depth to any road scene, and the painting guide helps with painting the plastic parts. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Hi all, here is the final reveal for the 1/12 Halcyon Power Loader and 1/12 Halcyon Alien Queen Diorama. For the third and final segment I built the base from MDF (Medium density fibreboard) with some 2mm aluminium checker plate for RC trucks, which I added to the floor and another rotary light in red. I also used some Trumpeter decal trays for the grills and loading deck with some LED strip lights inside them. The Queens Vinyl legs are solid inside, but I have been warned by a fellow modeller that they can sag, so I drilled them out and added some cotton bud sticks coated in epoxy. This seems to have a made them now solid. The diorama also fits perfectly on my coffee table! Finally, you can see the work in progress of my build here.
  10. “The sound of bullets tearing through canvas, wood, and metal; the young pilot’s heart thumps in his chest. That last burst missed his goggled helmet by mere inches. He desperately throws the control column left and right, presses the rudder bar with all his waning strength, but his attacker is in a far better machine and is far more experienced. The enemy stays doggedly on his tail, hurling more lead at his machine. As the fight gets lower and lower, he prays that his luck holds out. Tearing canvas, water pouring from the holed radiator, a stuttering engine and the smell of fuel indicate that his trusty steed is mortally wounded. The fight is over. Finding the nearest clearing, the young pilot throws the groaning machine to the earth. It rumbles along the rough ground, now under its own control. Knowing he is now a passenger along for the ride, the young pilot tightens his shoulder harness in preparation for the inevitable sudden stop. His craft lurches of the bank of a small river, it’s shark-like nose ending its days unceremoniously dumped into the muddy water. The young pilot is dazed, but alive. What was terror now turns to anger with the release of the tension. He tears of his goggles, throws his harness off, and climbs onto the spine of his machine to take stock of his luck. As his victor flies over the scene, waggling his wings, the young pilot hurls his fist at the enemy; “You win this time”, he screams. He may have been vanquished, but he has lived to fight another day”. Hi all – I hope you don’t mind the melodramatic start to the post! This rough idea is the back story behind my latest completion, a small crash diorama based on the 1/48 scale Eduard Albatros DVa. This is a project that I’ve had in mind since way back in 2006 when I first saw Stan Stokes’ painting called “Gotcha”: This was my first time at modelling terrain, and modelling water. I made plenty of mistakes (many of them are obvious) but it was a good learning experience. The aircraft itself was modified to incorporate battle damage, in order to help tell some of the story.! The aircraft personal and unit markings are fictional, but broadly represent markings of the mid 1918 period. I included a four-leaf clover motif on the fuselage to help with the idea that the pilot’s luck has held out. The pilot is a modified figure using various bits and pieces I had in the spares box. I gave him a set of goggles that he’s holding in his left hand. I am definitely NOT a figure painter, as you can see Progress pictures of all aspects of the build are in the following threads: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10149.0 https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052386-vanquished/ Anyway, here are some more pictures: I welcome all feedback – as I said, this was my first time tackling terrain and water effects, so I’m sure there are plenty of tips out there that you all can give me. Cheers! BC
  11. Hi ! Building a 1/32 scale Luftwaffe diorama with a large hanger. I'm about to paint the hanger but need some colour references. I can se in a lot of ww2 pictures the hangers and some service buildings är painted in camo patterns, but of course, I can't se what colors. Some help to get color reference would be great ! Regards Stefan from Sweden
  12. Hello folks! Well, this is going to be my first attempt at a simple sea diorama (EEP!!), and I would appreciate any tips and techniques from you lovely people (unashamed groveling). These kits are great value and lend themselves to improvement so out with the platicard and don the thinking cap! Wasn't happy with the size and positioning of the round windows (yes, watch playschool!), and hull needs detailing etc so filled in the scuttles (smarty pants) and so the adventure begins... The etch was purchased from a hobby shop in Poland at a reasonable cost. Thanks for looking, Andy
  13. Hi here is my last diorama spitfire mk 1 from airfix (oldest mold) albion refueller and figures from airfix (BoB kit)
  14. So after 18 months of on and off again progress on these Airfix Hurricane's, the 249 Squadron build is finally completed. Info on the pilots below: F/O Percival Ross-Frames “Percy” Burton 6 June 1917- 27 September 1940 Pilot Battle of Britain. Service number 74348. 1 Confirmed air victory 249 Squadron Church Fenton 1940 Hawker Hurricane MK1 V6683 (GN-H) On the morning of September 27th 1940 the squadron engaged a formation of Me110’s of V/LG1. The Hurricanes broke the Germans’ two defensive circles and the enemy aircraft went south at low level, heading for the Channel. Burton pursued one of the 110’s for about forty miles, often at little more than treetop height, but the German pilot, the Gruppe Kommandeur of V/LGI, Hauptmann Horst Liensberger, was unable to shake him off. Just north of Hailsham, Burton’s guns stopped firing (presumably due to being out of ammunition) and the two aircraft skimmed over the rooftops. The Hurricane, V6883, was above and behind the Me110. Burton suddenly banked and made whatappeared to be an attack. Both machines lurched and an object spun away. The tail unit of the110 dropped into a field, followed by the rest of the aircraft. The falling object was the wingtip of Burton’s Hurricane. His aircraft crashed into a huge oak tree on New Barn Farm, throwing its dead pilot clear and burning itself out in a field. The German crew were buried in Hailsham Cemetery but were exhumed after the war and buried elsewhere. Burton is buried in St Andrew’s churchyard, Tangmere. Eye-witness reports indicate strongly that he deliberately rammed the Me110. A letter from Fighter Command to the Hailsham ARP Chief said that Burton was to be recommended for a posthumous gallantry award. This could only have been the VC but in fact he only received a Mention in Despatches due to a VC being awarded to the squadron a few weeks earlier. He was promoted from Pilot Officer to Flying Officer 26/9/40. In 1980 a road on a housing estate near to the site of the crash site was named ‘Burton Walk’ in his memory. P/O James Reginald Bryan Meaker DFC 19 January 1919- 27 September 1940 Pilot Battle of Britain. Service number 42514. 7 Confirmed air victories 46 Squadron Digby & 249 Squadron Church Fenton 1940 Hawker Hurricane MK1 P5206 (GN-L) On 24th February 1940 Meaker was posted to 12 Group Pool Aston Down, to convert to Hurricanes. It was around this time he was involved in a mid air collision with another squadron member though both pilots baled out successfully. He joined 46 Squadron at Digby on 31st March. After a short spell on flying duties at 27 MU, Meaker was posted to 263 Squadron at Scapa Flow on 4th May. The squadron’s Gladiators were loaded on to HMS Furious, which sailed for Norway on 14th May. They were unloaded on the 21st and began standing patrols. The squadron was withdrawn on 7th June and Meaker returned to Britain by sea. Meaker joined 249 Squadron at Leconfield in late June. On 15th August Meaker claimed a Me110 destroyed, on the 24th a Me109, on 2nd September he destroyed a Me110, shared a Do17 and damaged another, on the 6th destroyed two Me109’s and on the 15th he destroyed two Do17’s, shared a probable Do17 and damaged a Me109. On the morning of 27th September 1940, J.R.B Meaker shared in the destruction of a Me110 in the same engagement that led to the demise of his squadron mate P.R.F Burton. Later that afternoon in a separate engagement while attacking a group of five JU-88’s on his own, his plane was hit by defensive fire and upon bailing out, his head struck the tail section of his Hurricane P3834 and he fell dead with an unopened parachute. Meaker is buried in West Dean Cemetery, Sussex. He was awarded the DFC (gazetted 8th October 1940). In 1990 a memorial was placed near the spot where he was killed
  15. Building 1/72 control tower based on US 8th Airforce Museum in Ohio (actual recreated RAF conrtol tower) - I am having issues determining how to create the pebble dash effect on the sheet styrene; Any thoughts? sand? Golden pumice gel?
  16. Star Wars Hangar Crew & Equipment 1:72 GreenStrawberry That low-budget cult classic from LucasFilm is back again, this time with accessories to liven up any diorama that you may wish to create with your massive stash of Bandai kits, or indeed any other 1:72 Star Wars kit. Thinking of it, they'd be pretty useful with any 1:72 Sci-Fi model, with maybe a little adjustment to remove any of the more obvious Star Wars design cues. Each set arrives in a small card box, with the figures in a tiny ziplok bag, a sheet of instructions where necessary doing the job of protecting them from rattling about too much too. The detail is good (remember that they're blown up to approx. 5x real size on my screen), with the casting blocks sensibly placed and a few wisps of flash from where the moulds have been cut to enable casting of parts with gaps, such as legs etc. The range is expanding as we speak (type?), and this is just the first of the range, as follows: Hangar Crew Vol.I (72001) Pilot with mechanics on inspection Containing three figures, two of which have one separate arm, and one having two separate arms, you get a rather heroic-looking moustachioed pilot figure with chest out and a wide stance, a chap with the SW equivalent of a clipboard perusing same, and the third chap is stooping whilst possibly leaning against something. Hangar Crew Vol.II (72002) A-Wing and Y-Wing pilots Three resin pilots discussing tactics or previous battles using the tried-and-tested method involving hands and the waving around thereof. One pilot is kneeling, and has a separate arm, while the others are standing and gesticulating in their flight gear. All three have the requisite helmets for their rides – two Y-wing jockeys and one A-Wing flier. Hangar Crew Vol.III (72003) mechanics and power droid A 1:72 Gonk droid! Sure, you get two mechanics, one striding toward something, the other kneeling to inspect something with his monster clipboard, but you also get a 1:72 Gonk Droid! He's made up of top and bottom halves, plus a pair of little short legs with tissuebox feet. Awesome! Hangar Equipment Vol.III (06718-1/72) This is a simple set that just requires the casting blocks sawing off and making good. It contains four items commonly found in hangars in the Star Wars universe. An inexpertly stacked block of those funny Holocron-shaped packing cubes, a large ribbed box, a smaller stackable "monitor stand" box, and a bundle of cylinders on a palette. Conclusion This will take much of the hard work out of building a layered diorama of a hangar bay, as it's usually the background objects and their candid nature that makes for a good diorama. There is also a Maintenance ramp that will look superb in the background, which we hope to review soon. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  17. The Battlle of Britain was, when I was a kid, already something mythological. These brave men, with the magnificent Spitfires and Hurricanes, who defended the last free place in Europe against the Nazi war machine. Growing older, I realised how much human effort went in to this battle. Reading more about the men, you come to understand that with this great victory and the magnificent machines, the toll on them was immense. I want to honour those men (in my own humble way) by building an Airfix Spitfire, but as a part of a diorama. I am fascinated by the photos of waiting pilots, ready to scramble. So, to complement the Spit, I'll try to build a small vignette of airmen waiting for the scramble to sound. I might fail in this, but I hope it will be a small reminder of the Few, of which so many ow so much. Next post I hope to add some pictures, still working out that since the Photobucket-disaster...
  18. My idea here is this is a young Mara Jade and her trusty driod an the run from one of the Huts henchmen on distant desert planet, a long time ago in galaxy far far away. The pictures are in a bit of a random order and one or two of my SW driods. Hope you like it as always any comments and feedback is Wellcome. Cheers Brian. Adding this one because I like it, I don't have any fancy photo editing stuff just MS paint.
  19. I am new to modelling, but not new to being creative. My background, as a young lad, was diesel mechanic, welder, and avionics (RAAF). Past 20 years has been in counselling (no hand skills required). Then, out of the blue, I got roped into, by the local maritime museum, to convert an antiquated lift-span bridge console to operate a model bridge. Then I discovered that they had no model bridge and nobody to build one. Then I found out that the museum is totally run by volunteers. So I end up volunteering to build a model bridge which can be operated by the real bridge's original console (1964-1995), and have the bridge set in a diorama display of 2400 x 1200 mm (8 x 4 feet). Yes, I have to build the diorama too. I have been doing this for several months now. I am still a long way from completion. My plan here is to post photos of progress by piecemeal. Both the console and bridge lack available schematic diagrams and drawn plans. So the whole modelling aspect will have to be scratch-built. As a result, I had to extrapolate the bridge measurements from numerous photographs, reverse engineer the console, and figure out how to operate the bridge. The current bridge operator was not allowed to tell how to operate the bridge, but was able to tell me what each switch did. From this information it took me a while to figure out the operating sequence. It is not a simply matter of raising and lowering the lift-span. There is much to consider in terms of safety, and in controlling the foot, road, and vessel traffic even before raising the bridge. Anyway, the first few months was spent in compiling the information needed. Then draw up plans (bridge) and schematic diagrams (electronics) for myself to follow. Actually I still have some unfinished problems to solve. The whole bridge fits nicely within the 8 foot width using a 1/72 scale. Here is a photo of the actual bridge: The console as it arrived at the museum: Proposed display layout: Yes, there will be a model boat traversing under the raised bridge-span. It is hoped that the museum display will be interactive by the visitors (mature or not). Meaning, that the display operations need to be, as far as possible, child-proof. The last thing the museum wants is someone purposefully lowering the bridge on the traversing boat . Or any other possible out-of-sequence operations. This has become a major headache for me. Finally, as an introduction, the museum is a non-profit organisation, so it has limited funding. My task then is to build this display as cheap, yet in good quality, as possible. So please excuse my choices of materials to do the task. Both the museum curator and president as given my free rein to do this project, which is great, because I work best without a boss. Though this project seemed daunting to me, I had also found it very satisfying to see it progress along. Hope you will also enjoy watching this work in progress.
  20. Hi everyone, this is my next diorama project. I've had these kits in my stash for a few years, but having completed the Space Jockey build, I thought now would be a great time to get this project started. Hoping to get the Power Loader finished first, before I start on Her Majesty!
  21. I have an excellent diorama book that suggests using real soil, but of course soil is organic (as in 'containing living matter' rather than the veg that's twice the price in Waitrose) so to answer the following questions, I did a few experiments. Would it help to heat/cook it first? It is better to sprinkle the soil onto a bed of PVA, or mix it with PVA and apply it as a paste? Would there be a problem using static grass with it? I received some excellent suggestions from other BM members that managed to push me in the right direction, then I went digging in the garden. After removing the larger stones, planty bits etc. it got portioned out into foil takeaway containers. After suffering the slings and arrows of outrageous sarcasm from the females of the house, I loaded up the cooker. Recipe for cooking garden: Pre heat the oven to 200 degrees (gas mark – how should I know!). Cook for 20 minutes, then leave to cool before tasting. The cooking kills any bacteria and other micro-whatsits so I'm not sure if this is suitable for the Buddhists amongst you. It also dries the soil to make it much easier to sieve. At this point I remembered that I don't have a sieve and I didn't want to use anything that was also used for food (can you imagine the ear-ache? ). I immediately had to ignore the thoughts that Mrs Gorby's cocktail shaker would be perfect, as the result would be a lot more messy for me than the shaker. After a look around and straining the think muscles, I used my wire paintbrush holder for the initial thinning down, using the handle of a small hammer to grind the soil through the holes. Please note: this is a very, very messy process and produces a LOT of soil dust. Doing it by my airbrush wasn't one of my best ideas. Then I used a large tea infuser (which is too big to go in our current teapot) to sieve it to it's final state. Even more dust! On the left is the soil after the first sieving, and the final stuff on the right. Using a suitable board (with the surface sanded to provide a key) I spread some slightly thinned PVA (to save me having to say it every time, when I mention PVA, it's 'slightly thinned with water') and using the tea infuser, scattered copious amounts of soil. When it dried, the thickness of the soil was patchy and too thin, so I used spray adhesive over the top and scattered more soil. This is the 'before': Note: don't use spray adhesive. The surface began to bubble excessively. I had to puncture all the bubbles and then roll the surface flat. But at least the soil thickness was acceptable now. If you need to add more soil, wait for the first bit to dry, then use a brush to spread the PVA over the top. Next experiment: I mixed soil with some PVA, making sure that there was quite a high ratio of soil to PVA, then spread it on the surface of the board with an old scrapper (quite a satisfy process) trying to make it look as natural as I could. After a couple of hours this is the result. As you can see the sprinkled soil is much lighter – more like the soil in the garden. The mixed and spread soil is significantly darker – more like mud.... but… After drying for 24 hours it lightened significantly, so it is possible that it will eventually match the sprinkled soil. Next experiment: Static grass. Please ignore the awful colour of the 'grass', that's why I'm using it for these tests. Spreading some PVA onto half the previous samples and the area between using a two inch brush, I applied the grass in the usual way. Then immediately turned the board over and whacked the loose grass off and tided the excess away, as quick as I could. Then using the tea infuser, I sprinkled more soil over the grass. Then left it to dry. Previously when I've done static grass, the end result looks a bit…. Ereerm…. A bit balding and just false, so I hoped that sprinkling the soil would make it a little more natural looking. That was the point of the, previously empty, centre section of my test piece. It definitely looks better with the sprinkled soil. Conclusion: If you want the surface to be as flat as a bowling green, then apply the grass onto the bare board and sprinkle soil when the PVA is still wet. If you want the surface to be reasonably flat, but a little more natural looking, apply the grass over the soil sprinkled on the PVA, and then sprinkle more soil over the grass. If you want a more control over the ruggedness of the surface, mix the soil with PVA and spread it on the surface before doing the grass and soil sprinkle thing. Final experiment: Changing the colour of the soil (making mud pies). I mixed some Tamiya gloss black (X-1) with the PVA to see if I could make mud. I can't remember where I heard or read it, but someone said that mud isn't glossy, but when I look at mud, it looks glossy to me. Even though I used gloss paint, the soil/PVA mix dried quite matt, so I sprayed half with gloss to compare the effect. Personally I think the glossed area looks more like wet mud. ************************************************************************************************** Further dirty adventures… @dcrfan mentioned that if the soil is too finely sieved, it lacks the character of real soil. A very good point which leads me to another experiment. The rejected stuff from the first sieving was discarded as the bits were quite big (certainty in 1/48 scale), but the stuff that didn't make the grade on the second sieving, I kept in case it would come in useful. I spread a very generous amount of PVA and scattered an even more generous amount of the coarser stuff and the fine soil mixed together, then quite gently pressed it into the PVA with the side of hand to bed it into the glue. It was left for about half an hour before I shook off the excess. To my eyes this was an immediate improvement over the smooth soil. Would the difference in texture be completely hidden buy static grass though? Keep tuned. Part two: Some of the coarser stuff and the fine soil was mixed together and then mixed with PVA to make a muddy paste. But the process of troweling it onto the surface, pushed the gritter bits below the surface hiding them completely. So I had to resort to scattering the coarser bits over the surface and lightly pressing them part way in. I pressed them in because stones aren't always on the surface of soil, they usually seem to be partly buried. I'm not so sure that this looks as natural as the soil that was scattered on PVA, but it still looks better then the smooth stuff in my opinion, so thanks Dcrfan. The colour is uneven because it has only had 24 hours to dry. On my planned diorama I would like to do an smallish earth embankment (about 1/48 chest height) so I troweled the stuff on reasonably thick (about 4 to 5mm) and as you can see, it has cracked quite badly as it has dried, so I'm either going to have to use lots of shallower layers or use something underneath, with just a thinnish layer of soil on the top. Static grass: Putting static grass over the top completely hides the 'improvements' to the soil. I scattered some coarse soil over the grass while the PVA was still wet, but most of the lumpy bits fell off (maybe not enough PVA). Just sprinkling a few coarse bits over the grass did improve it a bit, but obviously they are loose. Having said that, the completed dio is unlikely to be turned on its side or upside down, so if it's kept level, the grass should do quite a good job of keeping the gritty bits in place. The photos below is before the gritty bits were added. If anyone has any ideas for improvements or further experiments I'd be very interested Thanks for looking and I hope this has helped. I'd be interested to hear your views or comments. Gorby
  22. Hi, I am currently working on a starwars diorama. I have two storm troopers from Bandai made up and in need of a little weathering but not much. I would like it to eventually look like the rogue one promo shots with the troopers wading through a tropical ocean. I have made up a base from MDF, covered in polyfiller and then sprinkled with sand and small pieces of gravel. It looks like this at the moment: My next steps are to paint the base, as I would like it a lot lighter than what it is now, and then pour epoxy, water clear resin after I have built up the sides with styrene to simulate the water. I have never used resin and I would be gutted if this went bad, so what should I worry about. Do I need to put a clear coat on the painted sand base? Will the acrylic paint or even the sand lift because of the Resin? I know I have to pour the Resin in stages and have researched a lot, but have realised I know nothing of how it will react with the other media. All ideas and advise welcome as always. Thanks for looking. Chris.
  23. This is a build I finished a while ago, but I thought I would bring you along in the building process. And share the final result. I started with the interior, nothing fancy only some green paint. Then the two halves was sealed together and some panel lines rescribed, Until this point everything was going as normal. But then my twisted imagination started working more of this later
  24. Hello there! About to start a new project here and I thought I would share every step with you. I have the intention of building all the new Tamiya kits that come out and I finding a way to integrate them into a (hopefully) cool diorama. The first kit in line is the Tamiya 1/48 SS-100 German Heavy Tractor. The build of that kit will be available soon on the thread for military vehicles. I made the decision that this diorama would take place at the Bologna airfield in 1944 because it is possible that the particular SS-100 I'm going to build was stationed there along with the recon Me109's of NAGr.11. So I had a SS-100 from a Flak unit and an me 109, now how to integrate them into an appealing diorama. Well, here is what I came up with so far, tell me what you think of it. Pretty packed scene, have to see if it's too much in the end or not. I'd be glad to recieve any criticism from any of you and will post future updates here once the diorama gets going. In the meantime I'll be giving regular updates on the German Tractor build on the other thread. Kind regards, Jack
  25. Railway Tools & Equipment (35572) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Dioramas thrive on ancillary items that lend an air of realism, where the devil really is in the detail. There are plenty of 1:35 railway engines out there or various eras (mostly WWII from what I've seen), and scratch-building the equipment specific to railways is a chore, as would be the research to get things right. This little figure-sized box from MiniArt contains all that hard work, and all you have to do is glue them together and apply a little paint. The box contains seven small sprues of grey styrene, and two individual parts in clear and red styrene. The build and painting guide is on the rear of the box along with a sprue map, as well as a paint conversion chart in Vallejo, Mr.Color, LifeColor, Tamiya, Testors, AK, Humbrol, Revell, and Mission Models, plus the names of the colours in English and Ukrainian (that's a guess, but a fair one). Each sprue contains parts for a particular item, which consists of a wheel barrow-like trolley, two spare sleepers/track ties, two sizes of bucket, a lamp with clear & red lenses, a set of grips, fire extinguisher and blow torch. There are also a bunch of other single part tools that require no construction, with shovels, axes, hammers and an oil can amongst the sprues, which you can see in the photos. Moulding is excellent, as is the detail, with proper engraved wood grain on the wooden parts of the trolley and sleepers. Just the sort of thing found in corners around railway and other engineering locations. Review sample courtesy of
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