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Showing results for tags 'biplanes'.
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Hi all - thought I'd start a build log on this one. I've always wanted to tackle building a 1/48 Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) Bulldog. The RAAF operated twelve Bulldogs in the early to mid 1930s; these aircraft represented the forefront of the RAAFs fighting force during this time. From their introduction into RAAF service until 1935 the Bulldogs were considered almost sacrosanct; a pilot had to be of Instructor rating before being allowed to fly one. I've always liked the Bulldog because of its important inter-war role in the RAAF, plus I've always thought it looks pretty mean For a 1/48 Bulldog, there are only two options. One is the terrible SMER kit (not worth a look), or the old Lindberg kit. I happened to pick up the latter reasonably cheaply. This kit is a re-boxing of the old Inpact kit from around 1968, which makes these moulds over 50 years old! On the positive front, the basic lines of the kit are quite accurate, save a couple of minor exceptions. On the down side, the kit is of its time; that is, it has some very basic, chunky details, and no cockpit to speak of. It has raised panel lines throughout, has a difficult 'fillited three piece' upper wing construction and is severely marred by 'fabric texture' all over the fabric surfaces (wings, tail, and fuselage), which looks like someone attacked the mould with a blunt hobby knife: All of the builds I have seen of this kit have left this effect "as is". As these aircraft were silver, these surface traits really show up, and detract from the look of the model. So my first task was to tackle the fabric surfaces. Some severe filling and sanding was needed to get the upper wing together without seams (as the joints do not fall on any natural lines on the underside). The rest of the fabric surfaces then needed to be tackled to remove the fabric texture. This took lots of time, and lots of sandpaper, but the end effect is a smooth surface with subtle hints of ribs, much more like the actual aircraft in my view. These should look good under careful painting. I also added the fuel tank panel lines on both the upper and lower surfaces of the top wing. I also separated the elevators and rudder, which will be re-positioned. The vertical stabiliser also needed re-shaping on its leading edge (the kit stabiliser is too long in chord and doesn't have the characteristic fillet at the bottom). I then re-scribed the fuselage panels. The kit has erroneous panels around the nose, but these are easily dealt with. I hollowed out the panels for the gun barrells, but the troughs themselves needed to be completely replaced, which I did with shaped sheet plastic. All of the extra details (vents, rivets / fasteners, panels) will be added once the fuselage halves are together. RAAF machines also seemed to not have the forward set of grab handles on the rear fuselage, so these were also filled in. With these adjustments, the kit looks quite a bit less 'toy-like', and should provide a sound basis for the rest of the build. The very chunky cockpit locator tabs have also been removed, in preparation for a scratch built cockpit, which is the next challenge now that the hard part is over! All feedback welcomed. Cheers, BC
STOP! If you’re looking for buses, I’m afraid this is the wrong thread for you. If you like multi-winged flying things, read on. I am a little bashful at proposing a group build, partly because as a proposer I will be expected to host the thing if it gets through the ritual bunfight. Let me, nonetheless, set out my stall. Since I joined Britmodeller, I’ve noticed a few of us show some reticence where models of aeroplanes with more than one set of wings are concerned. Rigging seems to put people off, perhaps understandably. However, like many of you, I find I do have several biplane kits in my stash - 10 at the present time, ranging from a humble Tiger Moth to a Supermarine Stranraer - and they need to be built. I intend to rig them, too, or end up in the loony bin trying! Now, the thought of rigging doesn’t particularly worry me. Getting upper wings installed so everything’s all aligned, though, is another matter. Part of the GB's remit, then, could be to help those of us who do find the idea of multi-winged machines a little daunting. What better way to show techniques for jig-building to keep wings aligned, and to show different rigging methods, for example? There we are. That’s my proposal for a group build specialising in bi-, tri- and any other number as long as it’s more than one winged aircraft. What do you think? Up for it? Add your name and we'll see if this idea has - ho-ho! - wings! Heather Kay Tony W Wez Corsairfoxfouruncle Arniec Faraway zebra HockeyBoy76 Black Knight nimrod54 modelling minion Cookenbacher Col. Torbjorn dn142 Jockney CliffB Ted Robert Stuart exdraken Jack G klr John D.C. Masters Paul Bradley Dandie Dinmont gingerbob stevehed Ray S Bonhoff Erwin Well done everyone, and thanks for signing up to get my little idea to the magic threshold. There’s still room for more, but we can relax a bit now and wait for the big bunfight in November.
Hi All, Is it OK to join all the fun with a DH2? It will be the Eduard Profipack version and I intend to add a little detail and will not be using the marking options supplied, but basing the airframe on a picture in the relevant Windsock Datafile. Photos to follow. Christian, exiled to africa
Dear Fellow Modellers, Feeling really encouraged by the reception to my first two RFI posts, here is my third This time I'm presenting the Airfix Grumman OA-12 Duck 1/72, in the colours of the 10th Rescue Squadron, USAF, Elmendorf, Alaska, 1948. I started this model in parallel with the Hurricane (posted here) and Spitfire (posted here), in early August 2014. However, just after finishing the cockpit and closing the fuselage, I left it untouched for 2 and a half months, while finishing the other two. I only managed to finish it by the end of January 2015. This kit is a very old mold (1968, according to Scalemates). As such, it was a nightmare to build, since nothing seemed to fit or align properly... Seams were very hard to treat and the general fit of parts was poor. On the other hand, the cockpit detail is bare and the surfaces have raised panel lines and gigantic bolts. I didn't try to solve these detail/surface problems because my objectives for this buid were: gain experience with Alcald paints build my first biplane with full rigging So, here are the pictures: Details of the rigging are shown in the following photos: To conclude, a few words about the techniques: Primed with Alclad II Gray Primer and Microfiller Metallic paints are all Alclad II (regular shine): Fuselage: Alluminium Wings: White alluminium Struts and landing gear: Duralluminium Engine and exhausts: Gunmetal Engine couling: Semi-Matte Alluminium Hook: Steel Red, Blue, Yellow and Interior Green are Gunze Acrylics, Flat Black is Tamyia Acrylic Weathering: dry-brushing with silver on the engine, nothing else Top wing with struts was glued to the bottom wing after finishing painting Decals applied according to the usual method (Micro set/Micro Sol). Went on beautifully. Rigging holes drilled on the wings and fuselage, according to pictures of real planes and the box art, before priming used elastic fishing wires, glued with super-glue (CA glue), after main painting was finished (this aircraft had no stretchers for the rigging. The rigging passed through holes on the wings and fuselage) rigging brush painted with silver after installation (some complicated masking was needed to protect the aircraft painting) General finish is Alclad Aqua Gloss, except for the anti-glare black panel and the propeller, which are flat (Micro flat) As a first experience with Alclad I can say I was pleased with the results and found these metallic paints easy to use, contrary to much of what is said on the net. They provide a realistic metallic finish and the only difference to acrylic paints is the different primer and the different thinner used to clean the airbrush (cellulose thinner). Apart from that, they are pre-thinned, can be used directly from the bottle and dry fast. As long as the surface is properly primed and without defects, all works fine. Hope you like it. Please let me know what you think. Cheers Jaime