Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'american'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Community Calendar
  • Group Builds
  • Model Show Calendar


  • Site Help & Support
    • FAQs
    • Help & Support
    • New Members
  • Aircraft Modelling
    • Military Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Civil Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Aircraft
    • Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
    • Aircraft Related Subjects
  • AFV Modelling (armour, military vehicles & artillery)
    • Armour Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Armour
    • Ready for Inspection - Armour
    • Armour Related Subjects
    • large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above)
  • Maritime Modelling (Ships and subs)
    • Maritime Discussion by era
    • Work in Progress - Maritime
    • Ready for Inspection - Maritime
  • Vehicle Modelling (non-military)
    • Vehicle Discussion
    • Work In Progress - Vehicles
    • Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
  • Science Fiction & RealSpace
    • Science Fiction Discussion
    • RealSpace Discussion
    • Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
    • Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
  • Figure Modeling
    • Figure Discussion
    • Figure Work In Progress
    • Figure Ready for Inspection
  • Dioramas, Vignettes & Scenery
    • Diorama Chat
    • Work In Progress - Dioramas
    • Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
  • Reviews, News & Walkarounds
    • Reviews
    • Current News
    • Build Articles
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Walkarounds
  • Modeling using 3D Printing
  • Modelling
  • General Discussion
  • Shops, manufacturers & vendors
  • Archive

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 9 results

  1. I don't know if there is a record for the longest time taken to complete a kit, but this has taken me over ten years to get to the stage you see here. The late 1960s Chrysler Corporation "B-Body", mid-size cars are some of my favourite cars; I have various models of this family of vehicles. Off the top of my head there were the Dodge Coronet and Super Bee; Plymouth Belvedere, Satellite, Road Runner and GTX. Plymouth billed the GTX as the gentleman's muscle car, with luxury trim as well as powerful engines. I think I picked up this kit through ebay; I always wanted to take my time and do a good job but I think I may have taken it a bit too far! Here's the box: Let's see the progress so far: The body is painted and has had one clear coat (this is just a mock up of final assembly) the lacquer went on a bit thick in places so I'll do a fine rub down and give it another coat. You can build the kit with the bonnet fixed open or closed, I think the final build will have to fix it in place unless I can work out how to make it easily removable. I am quite pleased with how the engine looks, the kit comes with two complete engines and various carburettor options and the associated manifolds. I've gone for the 440-cubic inch "wedge head" engine with 6-barrel carburettor. You can also build the same engine with a four-barrel carburettor and the kit also comes with a complete 426 Hemi and two four-barrel carburettors (which I've built up and put in a safe place somewhere, i.e. I can't find it). The plan was always to build this with the 440-6 option. It's a pity the kit only comes with a representation of the four-speed manual gearbox as I'd prefer to build my dream GTX, which would be a 440 coupled to the three-speed automatic. I'm even pleased with how the engine bay turned out. If I do another of these I may try to wire up the plug leads and add more details. Test fit of the engine in the engine bay. Underside view, apparently Chrysler didn't bother with paint on the underside apart from overspray, so that's what I've tried to replicate here. The back axle had a plated cover for the differential (I'm sure that's not correct) and I'd previously started to scrape away the plating. I've also spotted that I glued the leaf springs on the wrong way around as the damper mountings should be inboard of the springs and the current location fouls the wheels/tyres. A little gentle but persistent finger pressure eventually separated the springs from the axle. I'll try oven cleaner to remove the plating. The interior tub is pretty much complete. I used to (back in my teenage years) hate/struggle with interiors but this one has turned out OK. The centre console seems to have come out quite well with a fake wood finish. OK that's the recap, stay tuned for the next installent.
  2. I present my Revell Airbus A319 in the new livery of American Airlines N800IN. The build was OOB with the addition of Braz Sharklets and aftermarket decals from 26Decals and Authentic Airliners. It was a straightforward enough build, with the usual removal of the additional flap track fairings for the A321. I’ve had this model on my bench for a long time, but just never got round to finishing it off... so I’m trying to get through unfinished projects before starting anything new. I still think it looks quite strange seeing an A319 baby bus with sharklets... The paint mix I went for was mixing Revell light grey 371, Revell white gloss 04 and a touch of Revell Silver 90. It was a case of keep mixing until I found a shade I was most happy with. It was then brush painted. Wings and stabs are Revell 371 with Revell 374 coroguard section. Was then clear coated several times with Humbrol Clear, and then finally glossed once the decals had been applied. Thank you for looking and as always any constructive feedback and comments are welcomed. Next up to finish now is my Germanwings A320. Regards, Alistair My model against the real thing...
  3. Here is my completed American Airlines 777-300 1/44 scale using the Revell Kit, displayed in the new livery This colour stressed me out for so long, and I kept mixing it until I found a colour that I was happy with taking into account various photos of the real thing under different lighting conditions. Interesting to know your thoughts? The paint mix I went for was mixing Revell light grey 371, Revell white gloss 04 and a touch of Revell Silver 90. It was a case of keep mixing until I found a shade I was most happy with. Wings and stabs are Revell 371. Was then clear coated several times with Humbrol Clear, and then finally glossed once the decals had been applied. Thank you for looking and as always any feedback is much appreciated. Alistair
  4. Hi all here is my recently finished 1:32 Supermarine Spitfire PRXI. The Tamiya Spitfire MKIX kit (60319) converted using Alley Cats PRXI conversion (AC32023C). Aircraft finished as MB948 “Oh johnie” based at mount farm Oxfordshire 1944/45 I added extra detail in the cockpit ie wiring and plumbing. Tamiya paints used XF-1 XF-16 XF-18 XF-71 XF-85 X-2 X-23 X-25 X-27 among others with Florys dark dirt wash and Humbrols weathering powders. Pledge floor care Windsor and Newton Matt varnish to finish Thanks for looking and Enjoy
  5. American Fire Truck Crew (1910s) ICM 1:24 ICM seem to be working their way through as many Ford T car variants as they can on 1:24 scale. One of these was the Model T Fire Truck. Now they bring us this set of two figures for the truck. One is the driver and the second is another fireman standing on the running board directing the driver. The two figures are on one sprue of the now familiar caramac coloured plastic. There will be some seam lines to clean up on a few parts but nothing excessive. In general the mould in crisp and clean with pleanty of detail. Conclusion This is a new kit of figures for the fire truck in a large enough scale for the detail to pop out. Highly recomended if you have the Fire Truck Kit. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Greetings all, I apparently signed up for these forums quite some time ago and either didn't become active or only briefly participated. Either way I was on the lookout for a new social medium platform among like minded mates and one such fellow, called Gorby here, advised me to check in. Thus I hope this is the one for me. I am a Yank but don't let that ward you off, beyond the pond, there are a lot of we mere modellers that would rather focus on our polystyrene than the rubbish on television.
  7. GazB

    Modern U.S. Tankers

    So I received the Academy M1A2 TUSK last year, asking for it in part because I spotted the Miniart Modern U.S. Army Tank Crew set. Unfortunately, that set is still listed as 'Coming Soon' even when a new one, the USMC crew set, seems to have been simultaneously announced and released >< As I understand it, the Marine and Army crew uniforms are quite different, so you couldn't pass one off as the other. What is particularly frustrating is I always make the Army version (seem to have more gadgets on them), but all the modern tanker figures seem to be Marines, and for some reason Miniart is delaying the Army set for who knows how long. Does anyone know if Army tankers ever wore a one-piece uniform like this in the modern era, or are they completely wrong for an Army vehicle? Appreciate any assistance on this (and hurry up Miniart!) Gaz
  8. Hi All This is my fourth build since returning to kits after many years and I'm really enjoying it, very relaxing and therapeutic! Well this one is the Hobby Boss M4 High speed Tractor which I just fancied the look of to be honest. It was a great kit, excellent value with the included PE, chains, paint masks, colour chart etc. great value. This is my first play with PE, god it's fiddly isn't it! I still have a lot to learn with regards to weathering especially rust effects which I tried, binned and gave up un but practice makes perfect? Overall I'm reasonably happy for a fourth attempt. It was painted with a Tamiya rattle can and brushed Vallejo acrylics but have just invested in my first ever airbrush for future builds! Mainly OOB except for some spares box weapons and accessories. I scratch built the tarpaulins and weapon slings using thin lead sheet and bought a set of Verlinden 1/35 WW2 US maps and documents. Anyway I hope it's ok and thanks for looking!
  9. M42a1 Duster 1:35 AFV Club The Duster was a self-propelled Anti-Aircraft tank developed from the Walker Bulldog, a light tank that superseded the Chaffee adding more firepower into the mix. Like its sibling, the Duster was heavy, noisy and hungry for fuel, with a range of only 100 miles between refuelling stops. Instead of the turret of the Bulldog, it had an enlarged turret-ring that facilitated mounting of a pair of 40mm Bofors anti-aircraft cannon, which were fully-automatic, with a theoretical fire rate of 120 rounds per minute from each barrel. It served from 1953, but was deemed outmoded by the new missile systems that were entering service, which was soon re-thought, as the new systems weren't so hot at low-level, and the Dusters found themselves back in the thick-of-it during the Vietnam war, where it was also useful against unarmoured opposition, and ended the war almost exclusively carrying out this role, before being passed on to National Guard units and finally leaving service in 1988. The Kit Following the Walker Bulldog kit from AFV Club, it was the natural progression for them to produce the Duster, as a great many of the lower hull parts were already tooled, the running gear and lower hull being the most notable ones. Arriving in AFV Club's usual top-opening white box, and inside are eleven sprues and a lower hull part in olive green styrene, a pair of black "rubberband" flexible tracks, a sprue of poly-caps, a small sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) parts, two turned metal barrels, two springs and a short length of braided string/rope. The decals are bagged with the PE, and accompanying the instruction booklet is a reproduction of the box artwork on a sheet of A4 glossy white paper, suitable for wall-hanging if you're of a mind to. First impressions are good, and it is on a par with AFV Club's other releases, and you are treated to a pair of turned aluminium barrels, some PE and plenty of parts. It's a full box, even after the individually bagged sprues are liberated from the plastic. Construction starts with the lower hull and the torsion bar suspension, the interior of which isn't rendered as it won't be seen. The individual swing-arms and their bump-stops are added to each side, together with gas-struts on the two rear, and the front roadwheels. Three pairs of return rollers are added to the hull sides on long mounts, retained by pins through the hub centres, and the drive sprockets, built up from three parts plus a poly-cap attach to the final drive housing and axle that are added in the previous stage. The roadwheels build up in pairs with a poly-cap between the halves, which is great for removing them when it comes to painting and weathering. The front and rear bulkheads are detailed with lights, towing hitches and sundry ironwork, and the hull is then turned over for work to commence on the top-side. The enlarged turret-ring has resulted in the Duster having a more APC top deck, with a large upstanding collar around the rotating turret. Part of this is built into the lower hull, projecting up through the hull, and the other parts are assembled with the upper hull. First though, an angled box is installed on the floor of the hull, and the locating ring for the turret it added, with two opposing lugs acting as the retention mechanism for the turret when installed. The rear part of the collar is added in front of the engine deck, and the front section is added along with the driver and co-driver hatches, which can both be left open or closed, although there is no detail within. The glacis plate, with its large access door is then added, and with careful gluing, this can be left operable, and has internal detail that is painted the body colour so that it blends in better when open. The front light-clusters sit on either side of the hatch, resting on wedge-shaped brackets low down on the plate, and surrounded by protective cages to protect them from damage. The engine deck is made up from three parts, with the largest having the louvers and grilles moulded into its surface. You will need to drill a pair of holes into each of the rear plates before installing them, or you'll struggle to locate them later on in the build. The fenders are busy, the port one housing a pair of (styrene) replacement barrels in a space under some stowage bins, and here the springs are added to the rear ends to replicate the recoil mechanism of the un-mounted barrels. The exhaust is also mounted on the rear with a shroud around it, and an open-sided box that permits stowage on top of extra track-links. The box atop the spare barrels is built from four sections, and has stand-off legs to allow it to clear the barrels beneath it, and a drum-like air-cleaner between it and the exhaust. The starboard fender is broadly similar, only with pioneer tools over the exhaust, and more stowage where the barrels are on the opposite side. They both mount into long slots on the side of the hull, with support brackets running from the glacis plate to the front of each fender. Once installed, the trunking from the hull to the air-filters is added, terminating just aft of the turret collar. More stowage boxes mount on the angled rear plates, secured in the holes drilled earlier (hopefully!). The rotating portion of the turret sits within the turret collar, and renders the inside of the hull invisible. A central section fixes inside the outer section, and various boxes and pieces of equipment are added along with a foldable jump-seat and the permanent crew seats, a fire-extinguisher and the base of the mount for the twin 40mm bofors. The breeches mount side-by-side, and the ammo feeds sit at the top, with a small fixed curved splash screen atop the barrels. The elevation mechanism consists of two pistons that mount under the breeches, and these can also be left operable with careful gluing. The sighting and elevation/rotation mechanisms fix to the sides of the cradle, and clips of 40mm ammunition are supplied with the kit to slot into the feeder chutes. A scrap diagram shows the correct painting of these parts, for which you'll need a steady hand or fantastic masking skills to paint the various stripes on the projectiles that tell the loader what type of rounds he is firing. A pair of large ring-sights are added on right-angle brackets one on each side, and the raised sides of the turret are added in sections, with equipment attached to the inner face. The two larger shrouds are added on either side of the twin aluminium barrels, which insert into the front of the breech and are given a trio of two pronged flash-hiders/suppressors held in place by a triangular ring, all of which is made from plastic. Two 8cm aerials are fabricated from stretched sprue and mounted on the bases on the gun shrouds, and the close-quarters 0.50cal Browning with ammo box is added to a pintle mount on the starboard side of the turret ring. The tracks are added as the last act, and are of the rubber-band flexible type, which I don't much care for. AFV Club themselves do a replacement styrene set for the Walker Bulldog that could be used, but that's just an option if you're one of those that don't like flexible tracks - there are as many that do like them as don't! Markings There are nine choices of markings, but as the Duster originated in a time of Olive Drab, there is only one that is painted differently, which is a National Guard unit painted in NATO four colour camouflage. From the box you can build one of the following: US National Guard, Ohio, 1976-1984 - four tone NATO camo sand/tan/green/black. German Army 1961 - Olive Drab. JGSDF 5th Bn., 7th Arty. Regt., Hokkaido, Aug 1979 - Olive Drab. ROC Army - Olive Drab. ROC Army, Kinmen Island, 1960 - Olive Drab. US Army, Fort Bliss, Texas, 1967 - Olive Drab. JGSDF Air Defence Artillery School, Chiba Prefecture, 1970s - Olive Drab. JGSDF 7th Arty. Regt. - Olive Drab. JGSDF 7th Arty. Regt. - Olive Drab. The decals are printed in Taiwan on a creamy-white paper, which renders most of the white decals almost invisible. Register is good, although I could detect slight stepping on the black of the number seven, but that is under 2.5x magnification and doesn't notice under normal conditions. Conclusion Another good quality offering from the AFV Club stable that will appeal to fans of the Vietnam war amongst others. It is well detailed, crisply moulded and comes with nice touches like PE and metal barrels, all of which add value and help to justify the asking price. Very nice, and a little bit niche. Highly recommended. Currently at 25% discount on list price at time of writing Review sample courtesy of
  • Create New...