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Found 29 results

  1. Dry Ground, Light Earth & Sandy Desert Acrylic Diorama Terrains AK Interactive (AK8015, AK8021 & AK8022) Dioramas can seem like a dark art to some (I'm speaking personally there), but with the right tools and some handy hints and tips – look out for my later review of the AK Interactive book Diorama FAQ – they can be surprisingly simple, although that might just be the folks that have the talent making it look that way. These acrylic pastes fall into the tools department and they can be used as the textured base for any diorama that has natural groundworks. Each pot contains 250ml of product and arrives with a screw-down black plastic lid that is protected by a zip-off safety device that prevents it losing the cap and creating a huge mess until you are ready to use it. A quick pull of the serrated end will have the lid released, which unscrews quickly on a coarse thread that is liquid proof when snugged down, with the paste filled right to the brim. The cap requires no membrane, and once you have removed the lid you can see the goop, which smells a little like emulsion paint, but as that's also acrylic the olfactory similarities are hardly surprising. Each type has a different colour, which can be beneficial if you're minded to use them neat without any further painting, but if you do intend to paint the finished groundwork, which most folks will, the difference in colour can be used to differentiate between the textures when mixing them on the same base. The wet bases put to one side overnight I used a metal modelling spatula to decant and spread the paste around my test bases after mixing it thoroughly before use. It did however appear to be well-mixed straight out of the pot, but it's better to be sure in any event. A small amount goes a long way over the flat surface of the 8.5x5.5cm styrene test cards, which I had pre-roughened with a coarse sanding stick in various directions. I left them to dry overnight because I'd finished applying them late on, but it is advisable to give the paste plenty of time to cure, especially if you have laid it on thick over your base. It appears to be capable of adhering to many surfaces as you'd expect from an acrylic medium, and I have seen it used on polystyrene foam of varying densities and colours such as that used to insulate walls or lofts. If the surface is keyed it will improve adhesion, which was my motivation for roughing up my test cards, and PVA can be used on other substrates to provide additional assistance. Dry Ground (AK8015) Light Earth (AK8021) Sandy Desert (AK8022) The next day the test cards were dry and the texture was more obvious thanks to the gassed off water content. The thicker areas were still slightly soft underneath, so take that into account if you're slapping it on a bit thick and allow extra time for drying before you proceed, and consider the likelihood of really thick sections cracking, if you want that to be a feature, otherwise (you can see that in the Sandy Desert test card) you should apply it in thinner layers. The colours give a decent tone for a simple diorama, and if you're painting them the self-coloured paste acts as a good base from which to begin, or completely obliterate at your whim. I gave the cards a bit of a flex after photographing them and the adhesion was excellent so I only managed to break off a small section at the edges with some grim determination and excessive force. They still smell a little of drying emulsion, but you have to put your nose right up to them to sample the aroma. I'll be using these and some other AK products to craft my first (completed) diorama base for an upcoming project alongside the new AK Real Color paints that we announced for them a little while back. Should be fun! Conclusion A very useful tool to lay down the groundwork of your natural dioramas, with ease of application and a difference in colour to assist in differentiation between textures. Dry Ground Light Earth Sandy Desert The Full Range Review sample courtesy of
  2. My next build is the venerable Airfix F-80C: This was part of my mid-90's stash-building spree. It may be my favorite straight-winged jet of all time (even over my Banshee!), so I'm super excited to build this. Plus I will be trying AK interactive extreme metal for the first time as well. Not that there's anything wrong with Alclad -- I love it -- but I've found that I can't quite get the "Almost-shiny-but-partly-worn" look from Alclad. Mirror finishes and really worn finishes, yes, but that elusive in-between... no. Here's an example of what I mean: Lockheed F-80C 47-545 (11488799454) Bill Larkins [CC BY-SA 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons I've tried lots of pre-shading ideas, but they either didn't work or weren't consistently reproducible. I suppose I could experiment with some post-painting effects, like maybe some dot filtering or something. I don't know. Back to the AK paint, however -- I saw several builds using the stuff and it looked closer to the picture above than I can get with Alclad, so I thought I'd give it a shot. I've also looked at lots and lots of photos and have a pretty good idea of how to shade the different panels to match the metal shades I see. More on that later. So, weeknights are busy and I typically only have about 10 -30 minutes to do anything at the bench. So, I started Sunday night but only now have had time to post any progress. Sunday night I painted all the Zinc Chromate parts, and painted the landing gears with decanted Tamiya Silver Leaf paint. The seat was terribly inaccurate, so I thought I could make it a little less so after looking at some reference photos. Here's the original seat: I added some arm rests with sheet styrene: Monday night I did an oil wash on the zinc chromate parts, then sealed them with dull coat: ... and a little detailing in the cockpit tub: and painted the seat. The seat in the photos I have looks like it was olive drab against the zinc chromate cockpit floor, which seemed odd, but that's what I went with. Tuesday night I painted the details in the landing gear bays. My reference photos showed that many of the lines were silver, but the lines don't match between the photos and the model, so I had to wing it. Last night I did some dry brushing and silver paint chipping on the seat... And fabricated some ejection seat handles to put on: Of course the opening for the cockpit is small, so all this detail maybe for nothing.... I also epoxied some lead fishing weights in for nose weight. I hope to get the fuselage buttoned up tonight. I've heard good things about this kit and it seems like the fit will be fairly good. I also heard that the intakes can give some trouble. The raised detail is incredibly fine, and I'm sure it will get wiped out when I do any sanding on the seam. It is so fine I won't be able to replace it,so I may have to just sacrifice some of it. @Stalker6Recon and @Corsairfoxfouruncle -- you asked to be tagged on this one... so here you go!
  3. Hey all, I’m currently looking for a good source for WWII VVS colors, and I’ve come across two brands that seem to have all the colors I’d need. Hataka and AK Interactive both have sets for both early and late colors in acrylic. Given that they represent a reasonable investment, I’d be interested in hearing anyone’s opinion and experience with these paints. Thanks in advance for any input!
  4. Gauzy Glass Coat and Intermediate Agent AK Interactive There was a time when Klear/Future were about the only clear gloss varnishes that people raved about, but since the formula was changed by the manufacturers J C Johnstone in the UK, some people don't like it and some do. Stocks of the original are limited, and going for silly prices, so people look for alternatives. AK Interactive have clearly (sorry – pun unintentional) been doing just that, and have found quite an interesting liquid, which they have named Gauzy. Firstly, I have no idea where the name comes from, but Gauzy it is, and it is available in two flavours (DO NOT drink it!) with differing properties and uses. Glass Coat Gauzy Agent As the name suggests, this is for your canopies and clear parts, which are almost always over-scale, and often not of the highest clarity. The bottle is a stout polypropylene cylinder with a full-diameter screw-cap lid that is initially protected from accidental spillage by a tear-off strip moulded into the lid. It contains 100ml of gauzy, in a form that is well-suited to the shape of most canopies, with insertion an removal facilitated by the wide mouth. The liquid is quite viscous and of a milky consistency, so don't let go of the part you are dipping unless you want to spend the next 5 minutes searching for it with tweezers. The fluid becomes clear as it dries, and dipping the parts improves the clarity by flooding all the tiny imperfections in the surfaces inside and out that would otherwise scatter the light. This is due to the self-levelling properties that evens out peaks and troughs on a microscopic scale. You need to drain any large puddles or areas where its surface tension prevents gravity from evening it out, but this can be done with a lint-free paper, or kitchen roll if you're careful. Set the part on a piece of absorbent material, propped up on a cocktail stick or coffee stirrer to aid draining, and then place a clear container over it to prevent dust from adhering. When dry the canopy can be masked and painted just as normal, but if it isn't marred along the way by your ministrations, it should remain crystal clear, or at least substantially better than it was. If you make a mistake with painting and want to start again, you can re-dip your canopy to remove the Gauzy, although this will also deposit thin layers of undissolved paint into the bottle, so use it as a last resort, or decant enough for the task to avoid ruining a bottle. Also, don't fall into the trap of passing it through the Gauzy a number of times (like folks did with Klear), as it just dissolves the old layer and leaves you with a new one. Conclusion - Glass Coat Gauzy Agent Super stuff in a very useful container that also resists tipping with the attendant mess. It dries to a very strong glossy finish that does exactly what it is intended to – fools the eye into thinking the glazing is thinner than it is. You might notice in the photo that there is a little blemish at the rear of the canopy, which is down to my lack of familiarity with the medium. I left an accumulation without wicking it away, please feel free to learn from my mistakes. Intermediate Gauzy Agent I suspect that Intermediate refers to the viscosity of the fluid, as it is definitely thinner, and not quite as opaque as the canopy dipping variant. It arrives in a more standard Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) container with plastic cap and tear-off retention ring for safety during shipping that you can see in the picture above because it had been opened by then. It is suitable for application by brush or by airbrush, and I have had two successful tests that prove their assertion. Application by Brush With little/no preparation I applied the Gauzy to an old 1:72 He.111 wing (the tip), using a 3mm flat bristle W&N "One Stroke" paintbrush, which performs beautifully in case you wondered. One coat gave a sheen that would be suitable for most decaling jobs, although the sheen was a little patchy. After two coats the shine was much more regular and very glossy. Cutting back between coats would have produced a glass-like sheen I'm sure, as the sheen was already good after my slap-dash attempts. Application using an Airbrush The Gauzy can be sprayed without thinning, and goes on quickly even with the 0.2mm needle of my H&S Infinity. One coat gave a satin shine, while two surpassed the shine of the second coat by brush. The first coat was lighter than the second, which was wet, allowing the Gauzy to level itself while curing. There was a little variation in the shine that could have been due to a little accident I had while cleaning the brush, so I then gave it a third coat that went on beautifully. It really is a joy to spray. Test Notes My workshop was at about 25c at the time of the test, and I had been sanding earlier, so there was plenty of dust around, so you'll have to excuse me if there are any motes now trapped in the finish. Clean up is with water, or any acrylic airbrush cleaner (I used the Premi-Air Foaming cleaner for this test), but as with all clear coats, don't be lazy and let it sit for too long, as it will make cleaning up much more trouble. The wing was painted previously with Ultimate Primer to a matt finish, which was buffed very lightly with a piece of kitchen roll. Conclusion - Intermediate Gauzy Agent This is my new favourite clear gloss, and I'm only sorry I don't have much more of it. It dries quickly to a high shine when correctly applied, and sprays easily. There's not much more you could want from a clear gloss. Yes, I know I've pictured the canopy version in the shine test, but it's just there to show the reflectivity of the finished surface. Review sample courtesy of
  5. REAL Colors of WWII - Aircraft AK Interactive Last year AK Interactive launched the "Real Colors" range of Acrylic Lacquer paints after working to get in their words "The Accuracy" in the paints produced. To accompany the paints there are two books one on the Air colors and the other on the AFV colors. Please note we have not gone all "American" here on BM however this is the spelling that AK have chosen to use in their publicity, though readers will no doubt be relieved they reverted to "colour" in the book. The book is a large A-4 sized hard back publication with 292 pages. There are 42 colour profiles, several document reprints, and 390 b/w and colour photos, many of which are very rare. All of the printing is first rate with many quality photographs in black and white, but also full colour. Colour chips are also interspersed in the text at appropriate locations, Nick Millman who is a good source of information of colour and paint here on Britmodeller has contributed to the text of the book with archival research. He has kindly sent me some information which has been of help. With regards to the colour printing of paint chips he has said "Colour chips are printed rather than paint which also introduces a margin of error but I think the printers have done an excellent job with them and generally I was well satisfied. However and in particular Neutral Grey 43 came out much darker than expected compared to my original chip." The other contributors to the book are; Maciej Goralczyk, Gerald Hogl, Jurgen Kiroff, and Mihail Orlov. While the colour printing is rightly stunning don't let that overwhelm the excellent text in the book as he has mentioned there are some "unusual nuggets" of research in there. Included is the latest information on the Luftwaffe’s late war colours, which have been reproduced as scale colours on the basis of the original paint factory recipes. In addition for the very first time, unparalleled research on the Soviet Air Force colours by Mikhail Orlov is introduced to non-Russian readers. The book is broken down into 4 main sections to cover German Aircraft, US Aircraft, British Aircraft, and Soviet Aircraft. There is some differences to how each is examined down to the different approach the authors have used. However I feel that some variation is a good thing rather than 4 repetitive chapters. German Aircraft Colours in WWII This section is broken down into 6 main sections, some of these have further sub sections. The main sections are; Pre War & Early War Colours. New Needs, New Colours (mid war). Late War Colours. Interior Colours. Official Colour Specifications & Camouflage patterns. Scale Colour Effect. US Aircraft Colours in WWII This section is broken down into 5 main sections, again some of these have further sub sections. The main sections are; Introduction USAAC/USAAF Camouflage Colours. US Navy Camouflage Colours, USAAF/USN Insignia Colours. US Aircraft Interior Colours. British Aircraft Colours in WWII This section is broken down into 12 main sections, again some of these have further sub sections. The main sections are; Introduction. Camouflage Colours. Temperate Land Scheme. Temperate Sea Scheme. Day Fighter Scheme. Desert Colours. Photo-Reconnaissance Colours. Air Sea Rescue Aircraft. Transport Aircraft. Grey Green. Identification Colours. Code Letters. Soviet Aircraft Colours in WWII This section is broken down into 10 main sections, again some of these have further sub sections. The main sections are; Terms and Definitions. Until 1940. 1940. 1941-1942. Winters of 1941-42 and 1942-43. 1942. Winter of 1943-1944. 1944-1945. Frontline Experience. A View From The Inside. Conclusion There is no doubt that there has been some quality in depth research involved in this book with regard to the colours and how they were used. The quality of the book is first rate when it comes to the colours being shown as long as you understand the limitations of the printing process. Overall Very Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Tom MacLean

    AK Air Series

    Hello, Looking for a few tips on how to make the AK Air Series acrylic paints more reliable in the air brush. I'm using a Harder & Steenbeck and have tried various pressure settings and thinners(except the AK-712 because it's out of stock) such as X-20A. So I was wondering if others have tried these and the results they are getting? They are "suppose" to be ready-mixed of course.... lol Thanks
  7. I've seen this and it would work wonders on a build I'm doing currently although I'm in the early stages of it. I was wondering if there is an off the shelf option that people are aware of or will the hairspray technique work just as well? http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/100ml-washable-agent-ak-interactive-ak236.html
  8. Well here is the second one finished from the WIP, see here : This is build 2 from the list. In summary it has had the dream model color etch cockpit set added, missiles (CATM-9 and TACTS pod) from hasegawa weapons set V and then some improvements from my resin casting projects - the wedge behind the RIO's headrest (also supplemented with a piece of brass rod for the strut) Lastly the exhausts complete consisting of hasegawa afterburner faces, aries tubes and tamiya F16CJ exhaust nozzles. Built 'smooth' without the pheonix pallets with just some training weaponry as featured very often on these training jets... Finished in VF101 markings from modelmaker decals (red bits a tad dark in my opinion) with AK interactive paints/products: Xtreme Duraluminium on leading edges with titanium/pale burnt metal on nozzles. Light/dark ghost greys and medium grey on body with radome tan for ecm panels and white for gear/bays from the Navy set. Detail colors on weapons and skunk stripe/fins etc from the Ak/meng basics set. The weathering isnt too heavy as from what I have read this plane (101 - CO's bird?) crashed shortly after its 2004 repaint, when they had this which became the final variation of the grim reaper on the tails... The more popular planes are the two 'D' models 163 & 164. I can only find pics of 101 with the earlier black tail art which has the flying reaper swooping his sickel beneath him... Enjoy! General Cockpit area Above In detail Undersides Internals with flash Low angle Sorry if it's picture heavy...
  9. GazB

    Real Color Issues

    So I finally cracked out the Real Colors. Adding my Ultimate Thinners to the pots as I do with Tamiya/Gunze, and set about spraying. First issue I noted is that my pipette seems to suck up a lot, but refuses to spit much of it back out, almost like its clinging to the inside of the tube. As a result, painting just a small Humvee canopy resulted in the pot going down to its default fluid level, which was almost the equivalent of one third of the jar. I also experienced some spattering and paint build up in the end cap. I did ultimately managed to get a fairly good coat down, but it didn't perform anywhere near as well as my Tamiya or Gunze normally does. Mind you, the Tamiya flat black I'd been using perfectly suddenly decided it wanted to spit and spatter as much as possible as well, making the coverage woefully inconsistent. I don't quite understand it at times. I clean my airbrush after every session and quick flush it between colours. Granted this is my slightly older Revell one, which I'm using temporarily until my replacement nozzles arrive, but still. One minute it works great, like when I put down the coat of Tamiya NATO green. But with the black and the Real Color, the performance was less than adequate despite being thinned in the exact same way. Anyone have any tips for avoiding the spattering? I dare not try painting any kind of camouflage currently. Gaz
  10. GazB

    AK Interactive Paints

    What's the general consensus on AK Interactive paints? Not the Real Color line but the dropper bottle ones. Do they behave exactly the same as the Mig Ammo, or are they slightly different? Reason I ask is I'm eyeing their woodland camouflage figure set, but don't want to spend that amount if they're going to be a bit dodgy. I've heard stories about the paints being lumpy or clogging, but this was from a few years ago. I once picked up a few Vallejo paints and they were horrendous. With the Mig Ammo paints I tend to put a few drops of Ultimate Thinners in the cup to improve the flow, and I would reason the same goes for AKI. I watched an official AK video showing their paints in action, but while they worked flawlessly, you do wondered how true it is given that its the company channel. Any clarity on the matter would be appreciated Cheers, Gaz
  11. GazB

    AK RealColors - NATO

    Ahoy all, I have a question. I've just purchased the RealColors NATO set and I'm wondering how suitable they are for U.S. vehicles. As we know, Tamiya does the three colours as well, which I normally use. The reason I ask is because in the past I'd heard there was a slight difference between the U.S. version of the tri-colour scheme, and say the German one. Looking at the paint codes on the NATO set, they aren't FS numbers but RAL, and they look a bit duller/darker than the Tamiya equivalent. A Wikipedia search IDs the green as RAL 6031-F9 'Bronze Green', the brown as RAL 8027-F9 'Leather Brown' and the black as RAL 9021-F9 'Tar Black', and mentions these were specifically a Bundeswehr combination. So would these ones still be accurate for U.S. vehicles, which often appear brighter, or more suited for the likes of the Bundeswehr? Cheers, Gaz
  12. Well here it is finally done. Two-ish months work. (Did a couple f-16's and finished a tomcat concurrently) In summary, it had the Eduard cockpit etch added, resin barrels and main wheels. Also a Montex insignia mask set. More detail in the WIP here: Finished almost exclusively in ak products. In a nutshell - Primed with stynylrez, Main camo colours from the air series. Basics and equipment for detail painting, sprayed markings and variation in camo colours. Rubber and chipping colours obvious. Metals - burnt for exhaust, gunmetal for barrels and Alu as a base colour to chip the props. Panel liner washes used depending on background colours. Gauzy for stencil decals and sealing for the washes. Satin and Matt final sheen. Hope you like it! Thanks for looking. Tony
  13. Hello and here is my 1/72 Hasegawa F16N, completed for the STGB. WIP here: Pretty much as it comes, but had some revell upgradings - bang seat, main wheels and winders. Then from my casting project - Hasegawa GE tube and AB face from a B/D tomcat, and a GE nozzle from the fujimi B/D tomcat. Bad bits- I should have scratched a tacts pod out of one of the winders but couldn't be bothered. One of the main wheels set slightly wonky. Also canopy tint is a bit rubbish. Three weeks to complete, could have been less if I didn't have concurrent activity disease. Also lost a few days removing the wing walk decals to make it more accurate (thanks @Pappy ) and then subsequently repairing/touching up the paint, but it turned out better in the end for it. Primed in stynylrez, then mr hobby camo 324/317/337. Nose cone 306 grey. Intake cockpit and some bits in 308 grey. 316 white u/c and bays. Revell Aqua anthracite for scale black bits. Revell 90 silver on probes, oleos and nav lights. Nav lights then done in clear colors. Exhaust in alclad magnesium & pale burnt metal. Sealed with ak gauzy between decals and weathering etc. Weathering was some post shading and fading with mr paint basics black and white to make some dirty greys. Ak panel liner for blue and grey camo overall. Grey filter used as a wash for the white bits. Track wash on the exhaust bits and for some general grime streaks. Final coat was ak ultra matt. Enjoy!
  14. Last one (promise) from the Christmas WIP... I did quite alot in three weeks off. Well not much apart from messing about with plastic... This one was bought for an experiment from Mikemx at mjw models. As I already had the hataka USN paint set for the tomcat saga, and I wanted to try out the blue that came in it. (Incidentally the orange in that set was used on the Bell X-1, See my other RFI) This has now turned me into a hellcat fanatic and now have several more in 72nd... After taking all the pics I noticed in them that the antenna mast had been pulled back by the ez line. Thats since been sorted, as I managed to pull it out rather than snap it off, which would have made it almost impossible to re-attach strongly. Anyways, weekend edition OOB including decal seatbelts (fine through closed canopy) Just some added ez line and stretched sprue. Paint was hataka for all the main colours - blue/white/black and yellow tips. I tried gunze self levelling thinner with them after reading about that somewhere else. And it worked very well for thin coats to fade the blue. Interior and tires by Mr Color, Engine and drop tank in Ak extreme metals aluminium. Exhaust stain airbrushed and gun barrel streaks are pigments. Full details in here - Here it is with the sorted mast (this afternoon) And here are all the ones from yesterday (note wonky mast!) Thanks for looking!
  15. Hi all. I've been thinking of purchasing the AK interactive NATO wash, but I'm curious to know if my Mig Thinner for Washes will work with it, considering the latter is for enamel washes (and Mig washes are a pain to locate) and the AK wash is enamel based. I'm hoping so, as this would avert the need for the AK thinner and let me use the cash for another product. But I'll defer to the expertise of others. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks Gaz
  16. Hi Folks here is another of my occasional forays into 1/48, the Airfix Gloster Javelin FAW9. I have been wanting to do this particular aircraft for quite some time as it was the only operational Javelin to have a natural metal finish (for the last few years of it's career at any rate) and a Javelin was the first ever aircraft I can remember seeing flying over Brechin when I was a nipper. XH898 was the personal mount of 228 OCU's CO, Sqn Ldr George Beaton, when based at RAF Leuchars in the mid 1960's. The kit is without a doubt the best Airfix kit I've ever made, it almost fell together and the engineering of the kit is quite amazing. It does have some areas that are tricky to assemble, I had a bit of trouble getting the front fuselage to line up properly with the aft section so ended up with a step and I would liked to have left the exhaust cans off until after the painting was completed to save a bit of masking. I added some seatbelts made out of foil and a pair of Master pitot probes as I broke the kit ones but other than that it's OOB. I was going to add the aerials that Airfix didn't provide but couldn't confirm which ones were fitted so left them off for now. Paint is AK Interactive's Extreme Metal paints and the roundels are from an Xtradecal sheet as the Airfix ones were very thick and wouldn't play nicely. Airfix got the colour of the canopy framing wrong on the instructions as they say it should be black when the colour photos of XH898 show it to be Dark Green with the same colour band around the rear of the radome. This is by far the biggest kit I've built since returning to the hobby (how the guys that build 1/32 B17s etc do it I don't know!) and found it quite a handful during the build as the space I have for modelling is really geared up for building 1/72 Bf109s and suchlike. I also found taking the photos a challenge and Mrs B is suitably unimpressed with it taking up a lot of room in the display cabinet too. I hope you like her. And one for the Lineys, there's always one joker! Duncan B
  17. Ref.AK148001 Source: https://www.facebook.com/AKinteractive.official/photos/pcb.1062704810417911/1062704483751277/?type=3&theater V.P.
  18. Ref. AK148002 Source: https://www.facebook.com/AKinteractive.official/posts/1062704810417911 V.P.
  19. Hello all Haven´t done much modeling lately but stll manage to finish this 109 in Galland´s colors. Last year I bought AK´s Luftwaffes camouflge color sets and wanted to try them out and a had an old 1/48 hasegawa 109E kit in my stash for ages (not my scale),so i give them a go and here is the result: Also used some items from the Eduard photoetch an decals came from a techmod sheet because the kits decals were to yellow and broke apart in the water. Nose yellow is humbrol 154 and True Details tyres. Really liked AK´s paints. Enjoy the photos. Hope you like it!! Regards FBorges
  20. Aces High Magazine. WW1 Centenary. Perhaps best known for their paints and weathering products, AK Interactive have now moved into publishing their own aviation modelling magazine 'Aces High'. Issue 2 is themed 'WW1 Centenary' and is devoted to models from that era. Five different aircraft builds are featured in 1/32 and 1/48, these being the DH.2, Sopwith Pup, and Hannover CL.II form Wingnut Wings, and Fokker DR.1 and Nieuport 23 from Eduard. More than this though, there is a feature on figure painting, a 1/32 fuel cart, and a 1/72 Mack Bulldog truck. This is a great idea, as although many of us are primarily aircraft builders, we like to add accessories and figures to our showcases. The magazine seems to be squarely aimed at people who actually build their models, as there is only minimal text to introduce each subject. The bulk of the pages are reserved to explain and illustrate how to achieve some of those tricky results that you see on top class models. Sequences of photographs are used to show step by step how to build and paint an engine for example, or wooden propeller, or wheels, and so on. I particularly like the section explaining how the Wingnut Wings Hannover was rigged, as this is an area I know I need to improve on myself. I really like this method of explanation, several times I found myself thinking 'oh, so that is how it is done' as I read through the articles. Each finished model is shown from several angles, the DH.2 is a particularly impressive piece of work. The printing throughout is on good quality glossy paper, with full colour photographs and supporting text keyed to each picture. 72 pages are provided, of which only 6 are used for advertisements, and that includes the back cover with a rather nice Wingnut Wings ad on! 'Aces High' is available through AK Interactive's own website, and I notice that Amazon and EBay also list it. The 'Next issue' teaser at the back of issue 2 tells us that issue 3 will be themed on late war Japanese fighters, figures, and vehicles. This is a very impressive new magazine, clearly written by modellers for modellers, and I wholeheartedly recommend that you get hold of a copy and see for yourself. It's a good read and you are almost certainly going to pick up some very useful new tips. Review sample courtesy of
  21. We have the following Acrylic paint sets at cheap prices while stocks last! AK Interactive 559 - German Warships £8.82 560 - WW2 German Vehicles £9.12 1553 - Russian 4B0 Green £10.86 4000 - Tank Accessories £9.12 Lifecolor SPG07 Algae Paint & Pigment set £7.50 XS02 WW2 RAAF Paint set 2 £12.30 Vallejo 78408 Model Air AFV/Armour Modern Russian vehicles £6.66 70104 Model Colour High Elf paints £9.60 70138 Demag D-7 Afrika Corps £9.60 thanks Mike
  22. We've just got a new range of paints in stock now, AK Interactive's Acrylic Aircraft Paints. There are 3 paint sets, each with 8 colours in 17ml bottles, just like Vallejo and are ideal for brush painting or airbrushing when thinned. Luftwaffe set 1 contains - RLM 02, 65, 66, 70, 71, 74, 75 and 76 Luftwaffe set 2 contains - RLM 72, 73, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82 and 83 RAF WW2 set contains - RAF - Dark Green, Dark Earth, Sky, Med Sea Grey, Ocean Grey, Mid Stone, Azure Blue, Int Green Grey. So Luftwaffe set 1 will cover Bomber camouflage throughout the war, Early and Mid war fighter colours and the 2 main interior colours. Luftwaffe set 2 covers Desert colours, Maritime and Late War camouflage colours. The RAF set will cover Early and Later war Northern European Camouflage as well as Mediterranean and SEAC camouflage schemes. I've also seen a set for Japanese Navy Aircraft but we've not been able to get that as yet. http://www.mjwmodels.co.uk/ak-interactive-paint-sets---8-colour-282-c.asp thanks Mike
  23. Luftwaffe Colours 2 AK Interactive Paints can be a very personal item to the modeller who can and will stick with one particular manufacturer or at the very least a specific type. The choice of paint in the current market is huge. Well, now there is another set of acrylic paints to choose from, released by AK Interactive, who are probably better known for their weathering products and are also increasing their line of paint. The set comes in an end opening box, with the 17ml plastic bottles contained in a plastic tray inside. This set has been designed for German aircraft, and contains eight Luftwaffe colours, RLM 72 RLM 73 RLM 78 RLM 79 RLM 80 RLM 81 RLM 82 RLM 83 According to the blurb on the bottles they can be both brushed or airbrushed which please a lot of modellers. Once the bottles have been shaken very well colour density looks pretty good, and if they are anything like their armour colours they spray and cover well. Although I haven’t used them with a brush, I cannot see why you shouldn’t be able to get a good finish with them. On the back of the box there is a useful colour chart of which colours go together and depict six aircraft in various schemes. These being two desert schemes for the Me-109, one for an F and one for a G, one scheme for the Arado Ar-196, one for the Junker Ju-52, (the float equipped version being shown), one for the Arado Ar-234 and one scheme for the Fw-190D. Also included in the package AK interactive sent to us were two bottles of thinners. The standard thinners, in a 60ml bottle is specifically for thinning the paints when using an airbrush and, according to the information on the side of the bottle has been designed to prevent clogging and jamming. The second bottle contains 100ml of what AK Interactive call their Nitro Thinners, a nitrocellulose based thinners which can be used with, again, according to the information on the bottle ,any other brand of acrylic paint. It can also be used to clean brushes and air brushes after use. How well either of these thinners works will only be known when I use them, which will probably be on my next build. After which I will be able amend this review accordingly Conclusion This is another set of very useful and well thought out selection of paint colours. The ease of use I’ve had with their previous paints should mean that when I get to use them the results will be just as pleasing. Since my next build will be for a review, it will be good to try these products at the same time. Highly recommended, subject to testing Paint set Thinners Nitro Thinners Review sample courtesy of
  24. azureglo

    Move over Alclad?

    I just got this link for AK's allegedly better than the best metalliser thing ever: http://www.ak-interactive.com/ak/NEWSOCT2014/TRUEMETAL.pdf It looks way useful, anyone got their steely mitts on yet?
  25. German War Colours 1937 - 1944 AK Interactive There is a huge choice when it comes to German armour kits, with almost every manufacturer having a good selection in their portfolio. But what do you paint them with? Now, AK Interactive are well known for their weathering products and are increasing their line of paint. This set has been designed for German Armour from 1937 – 1944, and contains six Wehrmacht colours, • Polizei/Waffen SS grun, • RAL 7021Dunklegrau • RAL 7017 Dunklebraun • RAL 6003 Olivgrun Opt 1 • RAL 6003 Olivgrun Opt 2 • RAL 7028 Dunklegelb According to the blurb on the bottles they can be both brushed or airbrushed which please a lot of modellers. Once the bottles have been shaken very well colour density looks pretty good, but until I’ve used them I cannot definitively state how well they spray or cover. On the back of the box there is a useful colour chart of which colours go together and depict five armoured vehicles/tanks in various schemes. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful and well thought out set of colours from AK Interactive and will prove a boon to both the beginner and expert alike. Without actually trying them though I can only recommend them with from my use of other products in their range. When I get to use them I will amend this review accordingly. Review sample courtesy of
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