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Found 54 results

  1. Jetblast

    About us;

    www.air-craft.net is the website of Air Tech Equipment Ltd - We are an UK based online retailer specialising in airbrushing equipment, spares & accessories along with a selection of modelling related paint, tools, masking, abrasives, accessories & what not. Our website shows live stock levels & we do not support back ordering, so with the exception of the very occasional stock level errors, if it's indicated as in stock, it is physically in stock. We ship around the globe, using Royal Mail & Parcelforce in the UK, Royal Mail Airmail & Parcelforce / GLS in Europe & Royal Mail Airmail, TNT & UPS for orders beyond Europe, orders generally ship the same or next working day. We can accept PayPal, credit card or bank transfer as payment methods & for added security our website is HTTPS throughout. We are direct importers or official resellers for all the products we sell, are familiar with the technical aspects of all equipment listed & have a significant range of spares to support said equipment. We are happy to advise on any airbrush equipment related enquiries, but I'm afraid we don't have a team of receptionist & sometimes struggle to get to the phone during busier periods - If you don't get a reply & prefer not to leave a message you can email us on sales@air-craft.net & we will respond as soon as we can. Harder & Steenbeck - airbrushes, spares & accessories Iwata - airbrushes, compressors, spares & accessories Sparmax - compressors, airbrushes, spares & accessories Mr Hobby - airbrushes, spares, paints & accessories Neo for Iwata - airbrushes, spares & accessories Werther Sil-Air - silenced compressors & spares Benchvent - spray booths Tamiya - paints, tools, masking & accessories Swann Morton - knives & blades Olfa - knives, cutters & blades Micro-Mesh - abrasives Flex-I-File - abrasives & adhesives Model Craft - tools Ultimate Modelling Products - cleaner, thinner & primers Others - Xuron, 3M, Light Craft, Artool, Aircom, Adhesives, Brushes.......... Thanks for looking, Martin Ferguson, Air Tech Equipment Ltd.
  2. Hi, I’m getting back into model making after 30 years and came across your (very useful) website – a great resource. I have just bought an H&S Evolution airbrush and am only using acrylic (water-based) paints for my bike or car projects. So far I have found that the Revell Aqua paint sprays okay, whilst I can’t seem to get on with Humbrol at all (variable results across pots of the same colour) My question is this – which water based acrylics give the best metallic finish (ie on exhausts, wheels, engine covers, etc)? From what I can see there are quite a few makes to choose from here in the UK: AK Extreme Metal, Vallajo Metal Colour, Vallajo Model Air, etc – do they all have to be used over a primer? And if so, what type (matt/gloss)? Can these all be sprayed with a clear coat to protect/enhance them? What are the acrylic (non-solvent) clear coats like to use? The biggest attraction of these for me is that they are water-based and thus make cleaning the airbrush easy and odour free. Any advice greatly received, thanks!
  3. I heard of using an airbrush to paint on decal paper but can't find anything on it. I use a laser printer and laser paper if it matters. I want to know, should I use just acrylic paint and do I put the decal film on before and/or just after.
  4. Hello, I was wondering if someone already tested Mig's new Aircobra airbrush and can deliver first-hand, non-sponsored insights on it. Especially, the usage with acrylics is something where other manufacturers struggle. To my understanding the brush itself is manufactured by Badger but is not a simple re-branded copy of one of their products. Which Bdager airbrush would come closest to the Aircobra components- and handling-wise? Thanks! Cristian
  5. https://www.amazon.de/Gocheer-100-250V-Kompressor-Modellbau-Reinigung-TS100BMC/dp/B071XVWZ3C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531083626&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush This set was suggested to me by an ig scale modelling account and it looks really good. Does anyone else have this specific set and would you recommend it for a beginner with a tight budget
  6. Hi guys, I'll be perfectly honest in that I joined here to share some information i gathered while researching airbrushes. I'm not a modeller, but an airbrush artist and custom painter/scenic artist. I've done a lot of work for disney world and some of you guys might have seen some of my work in the form of talking tikis at the mini golf course in hastings. I'll post what i've found in the appropriate section as soon as i figure out what that is
  7. So today, whilst discovering that somehow my last cleaning job had missed a bit of paint on the needle, I set about cleaning my airbrush. I recently started removing the nozzle to push the needle out the front to try and avoid fouling in the rear. Unfortunately, as I tightened that back up, it sheared, with the threaded section now inside the airbrush. I've seen a vid where you can potentially remove it, but even if I do, trying to find a compatible nozzle could be an issue. I spotted one airbrush that looks identical to the one I have, but is a different make. Only £11.59, with a 4.5 star review. So long as it did the job I'd be happy with it. I then saw a Sparmax Max 3 for £50. It apparently comes with an adapter for use with diaphragm compressors, which I think my little three-mode one is. My question is, would a continuous flow of air blow out as it currently does with my other two airbrushes (my old Revell one will work for now, but the cup is tiny on it), which is great for quick drying. I don't use them in dual action. The Revell one was single, and I somehow made the other work in single. I ask primarily because a review video I saw didn't seem to be letting air flow through once the trigger was released, but I figured tha maybe because the reviewer was using a tank compressor. If anyone could clarify whether or not the Sparmax Max 3 would continue to release air when I release the trigger, that'd be a big help https://www.emodels.co.uk/sparmax-max-3-airbrush-with-pre-set-handle-and-crown-cap-sp-max-3.html This is the airbrush/compressor combo I have been using https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-Airbrush-Compressor-Action-Artwork/dp/B01LZI6UG7 The cheap, potential replacement. https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-2mm-Dual-Gravity-Feed-Airbrush/dp/B00832H5VO/ref=pd_vtph_328_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XV63P4BA09SZFZKXNCA4 Cheers, Gaz
  8. I'm having a lot of ideas at the moment. The latest is to build a DIY spray booth, (for when I've sorted out an airbrush), but what concerns me are the electrics. Assuming that I've got the right parts - bathroom extractor fan, 3-core, on/off switch and 3-pin plug, does anyone have an idea on how to wire these things up? I only ask, because I'm a simple mechanical engineer and can attach bits together, but have always seen electrics as a bit of a black art.. Any advice would be appreciated.
  9. Universal Airbrush Accessories Iwata from Airbrushes.com Lube Everyone wants to keep their airbrush in top condition, after all they are not cheap. This is a non toxic silicone free lubricant from Iwata which can be used on all moving parts. In particular they recommend applying it to; The Main Lever, Needle Packing, Valve-piston packing, along the needle and the needle cap to enhance paint flow and prevent tip drying. This is a new formula and is now clear. This new formula does not evaporate and maintains its viscosity. Recommended to keep your Airbrush in tip top condition. Spray Out Cleaning Pot This is a universal pot to allow spraying out paint and cleaning products from your Airbrush. This is a glass pot the lower part of which is covered with a removable rubber sleeve. This stops the pot from sliding of your work bench, and if it does in someway will offer some protection from breaking. There is a hanger which will fit all gravity-side-bottom feed and trigger style brushes (sp pretty much all of them then!). There is a filter cap which holds small foam type filters of which you get two spares in the box (these are also available to buy separate). The cap can even hold small parts if you dont want them rolling around. The pot eliminates over-spray when cleaning and its easy to clean up afterwards. The glass bowl when removed from its sleeve is even dishwasher safe. Highly recommended, especially if like me you have just been using an old jar for this. Airbrush Holder / Hanger As the name would suggest this is holder to keep your brush(es) safe on the bench. This is universal and will hold two brushes of any combination. The design holds your brushes securely and prevents them from being accidentally pulled off. There is a heavy duty clamp which will open up to 3 inches (75mm). The box also includes a bracket to attach the cleaning pot to the stand. Workstation As mentioned the Spray out pot can be attached to the airbrush holder to create a Workstation. In addition there are tapped holes and a screw to mount a pressure regulator here as well if needed. If purchased as a work station there is a cost saving as well. Conclusion These are some handy tools from Iwata which will fit most airbrushes out there and will help keep your equipment in good condition. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  10. Hi guys Totally new to this forum so this is my first post. Im a brush painter and am really happy with the quality im getting so far. Although now i have a project planned which will require an airbrush. I need to create a gradiant and feel i need an airbrush for the task. As this will be my first adventure into airbrushing I thought id start at entry level. I wondred if anyone could take a perk at these airbrush sets i found ebay and tell me if theyd run tamiya and vallejo acrylics through them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262787237714 Or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142449225239 Thanks for any replies Regards
  11. Summer offer Limited to the first 5 takers..... We have 5 copies of Meinrad Martin Froschin book A Beginners Guide to Airbrushing retailing at £12.99. A copy of the book will be including free with the next 5 Airbrush and compressor sets sold in August, so be Quick ! Forgot to add a link to the sets, so here it is: http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/airbrush--compressor-sets-196-c.asp Thanks, Paul
  12. Evening all. Bit of a little conundrum here. I've been airbrushing my models for about a year, but recently my Revell Basic Airbrush and Compressor Set has been on its way out. I've always used the lowest pressure setting and its started making a clunky noise when in operation (something rattling in it too). After buying three separate replacements of the same set (but which ended up being the European version and not the UK one) and sending them back due to really poor performance, I turned to a mini-compressor set I found on Amazon, specifically this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-Airbrush-Compressor-Action-Artwork/dp/B01LZI6UG7/ref=pd_sbs_21_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KQZDRWDW74TNWQ44MT75 So far it has the same kind of operation and performs more like my original set, but I'm having an issue with spatter. The set has a double-action airbrush, but I swapped out the connector with that of my single action airbrush, which then connects into the supplied filter. This corrects the problem of the airbrush spitting out globs of paint whenever I trigger the airflow, but the paint on the whole still seems to be spitting finely around the target area. I'm using the same paint, thinned to the same level, as I did before without issue, so I'm a bit stumped. The needle is clean and straight, the pressure seems to be comparable to my previous compressor, and the paint is the same. So I'm not particularly sure what to do. There's a little adjusting screw at the back of the airbrush, which my original didn't have. I don't know if that could avert that, but playing around with it while the airbrush isn't running told me it tightens the trigger until it doesn't move. Any ideas on what I could do to rectify this? Its not so bad for larger work, although it would be less efficient since the paint is spraying beyond where its intended, but details could be problematic, especially freehand camo. P.S. I'm using Tamiya paint, which I thin in the pots to the same level. Gaz
  13. Hi All, I'm sure the regulars must be fed up of threads like this but I'm going to ask for help anyway. I'd like to get an airbrush kit that I can use for painting models, toys and detail work on motorcycles (pinstriping, touch-ups, flames etc... nothing large) I'm fortunate enough to have a decent budget available and would prefer to buy decent quality tools that will last and can be maintained rather than something that will wear out or will become limiting very quickly. Long term spares availability is important to me. I've done some research and find that a gravity fed, dual action airbrush paired with a compressor with a receiver tank seems to be the popular option. Any suggestions on what I should be looking at and what nozzle sizes are most suitable whilst learning? Apart from the airbrush and compressor what else should I budget for? Routine cleaning materials and tools? Moisture trap and regulator? Respirator? Spares? Consumables? Budget wise I was thinking circa £350ish but that's flexible. Basically I'm looking for the sweet spot In the budget range where I'm getting good quality and features without going OTT on specs or features that I'll never need as a hobbyist. Any help or advice will be gratefully received. Martin
  14. Can anyone help... I have been airbrushing for a few weeks now & a new phenomena has occurred this morning that has me foxed. With a full 5ml of stynlyrez primer in the cup I began to do some serious priming - BUT - after a few minutes my brush started to just spray water? even though the cup is still fairly full. More tests on a piece of card show the paint is coming through - but seems "diluted" & is puddling on my model & a piece of test cardboard - WEIRD!!! I've just tried posting a pic - but failed miserably... On further inspection of my compressor - the moisture trap (clear plastic bowl) is fogged with moisture. I've unscrewed it & dried it out - but there was actually very little moisture in it to be fair. Any ideas or things to try would be appreciated. Thanks in advance - Steve
  15. I'll have a few airbrush offers at the show on Saturday. Firstly two of our most popular starter sets are reduced by £15. The first features the Sparmax GP-35 trigger airbrush. This is a general purpose brush that is very easy to use and can paint down to about 3mm as well as cover areas with ease. The set has our little-jet compressor, quiet, up to 30 psi, 40 minute duty cycle compressor, also made by sparmax. As well as a cleaning pot/stand, face mask and set of cleaning brushes. Both have 24 month warranties. All for £210 The second set is the same, but featuring the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 2in1 airbrush, for only £255 Finally the same set with the H&S started Ultra 2in1 airbrush set for only £205. All the brushes and compressors can be seen on our website. www.modellingtools.co.uk I'm sure there will be a lot of other bargains at the show as well, so hope to see some of you tomorrow. Paul Thanks, Paul
  16. We still have a few Grex at reduced prices. Order now while stocks last £170 Grx TGi and £130 for XGi Comes with 2 1/72 or 1/48 camo masks or 1 1/32 or 1/24 from our range. We currently have in stock masks in 1:72, 1:48, 1:32 and 1:24 for the following.Bf109eFW190Hurricane, Pattern A or B Mosquito IV & VIP-40B/CSpitfire IV Patt A or BSpitfire IXc
  17. Hello everyone. Been a fan of this site for a while, now compelled to post as I'm at my wits end with my airbrush setup. Years ago (2006?) I bought my first compressor, a Sparmax AC-27. I used it with an old Badger airbrush until its needle bent. After moving house, the Sparmax sat in the shed until six months ago, when I returned to modelling and bought an Iwata Revolution. For a while, everything was fine. I did my research, cared for the brush and learnt a great deal in a short time. However, all of this fell apart in the last two weeks. The initial problems were solved through cleaning. But recently things have become much worse, with heavy, intermittent splattering, or paint congealing on the needle and dripping off. Paint will often spur from the needle after returning the trigger to its resting position. Often I am not getting any pressure coming through the nozzle. My paints are all properly thinned and I have attempted to spray with Vallejo, Gunze and Citadel paints. I'm tearing my hair out. I do not think the airbrush is at fault as I have disassembled it numerous times and thoroughly cleaned it. Am I right in suspecting the long neglected compressor? Air is still coming through the hose, alongside some water. As far as I can tell, it has no leaking air. Another possible sign of internal damage is the compressor will cut out if I go above 25 psi. Sorry for the lengthy post but I've tried to be as informative as possible regarding details. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Many thanks!
  18. Wondering if there is a lighting expert in house? Converting this to a spray booth and would like to mount a light(s) on the top portion. Lots of options, LED, Halogen, fluorescent.......input appreciated. Robert
  19. Hi, I recently found a compressor and two airbrushes. The airbrushes are Badger 200NH and Badger 155 Anthem. Currently I only have access to Revell Enamels in the little 14ml cans. So I was wondering whether it's possible to thin them down enough with whitespirit (Seems like I have an infinite supply of it haha), to be able to use them with the airbrushes.
  20. I've entitled this piece "almost the last word in choosing an airbrush." The reason for this is that someone, or quite a few who read this are going to have a lot to say about this article. Choosing an airbrush is a personal thing. What works for one person may not work for another. However, there are some basic rules that should be considered when you buy an airbrush together with some basic science. I'm a modeller! I use my airbrushes on a daily basis. I've tried most of the airbrushes out there and I would like to believe that I have a good understanding about the pitfalls and the pain when buying an airbrush. I have been there and done that. I spend a lot of time talking to modellers from various backgrounds and at different skill levels. As an authorised Grex dealer. I make no bones about the fact that the Grex TG is my preferred airbrush. When I came back to the modelling hobby I started with the typical cheap airbrushes in the "blue foam" box. I also bought a very cheap compressor which I returned within a week and exchanged it for a similar model which had a tank. After a lot of frustration, I very quickly moved on to buying an H & S Evolution and a high end Iwata dual piston compressor. Admittedly the compressor was a little bit of an overkill. After this came the Aztek A777 metal airbrush. If it was favoured by someone like Brett Green I couldn't go wrong. It was at this point that my airbrushing started to come close to what I was trying to achieve and what I saw others achieving in their models. There was nothing spectacular about the Aztek. What had changed was the fact that I'd gone from .2 mm needle to .3 mm needle unknowingly. Beginners struggle with the concepts of paint thickness as described in a lot of modelling articles. People talked about "thinning your paint until it has the same viscosity as skimmed milk". When you are at the workbench and pretty new to airbrushing the statement means nothing to most people. Getting good results with an airbrush requires three settings: paint, viscosity (paint thickness), needle size and PSI (compressor air pressure). The type of paint you use will also have a dramatic effect on the results that you achieve. Using a .3 mm needle does not mean that you cannot produce fine lines. One of the features I like about the Grex is that you can regulate the trigger travel and air flow to the point where you constantly get the finest of lines. A modelling friend says he can write a signature with these Grex. The reason that he can do this is that Grex has engineered their needle to work with model paints. It has a slightly design to it. I will come back to this. Illustrators and beauticians use inks or high gloss nail polish. Not model acrylics or enamels. Paint has a completely different viscosity and is thicker than ink. That is why people still struggle with high-end airbrushes from other manufacturers. Don't get me wrong, if I someone asked me what's the best airbrush to buy for illustration I would absolutely recommend that they consider the high-end Harder & Steenbeck CR plus or something similar from Iwata or any one of the leading brands. Having owned a H & S CR Plus one and it's an amazing airbrush. There is a BUT. When it came to modelling I didn't get the results that I wanted. The .2mm needle was too small and the .4mm needle to big. I found myself limited to the types of paint that I could use. These were mainly Mr Hobby and Tamiya. These paints worked well because by this stage I'd learned to thin the paint down to about 65/35 ratio mix of thinner (reducer) to paint. The moment I tried something like Lifecolor which has a very grainy and chalky consistency I found that my very expensive H & S began to splutter. It was not the airbrushes’ fault but it was the needle size. At this stage are still owned by Aztek and I found that I had no problems Lifecolor or Valljeo through it. I also found that I struggled to pre-shade. When doing something like a Spitfire with a lot of panel lines I found that my hand would cramp after a period of time. More importantly, most of my pre-shading disappeared once I started with my topcoats. The reason for this was that unless you use Mr hobby in an almost translucent (very thin) state and let it dry between coats, you will very quickly lose your pre-shading lines. Having read a lot about the Grex pistol grip and watched a number of Youtube videos I hoped that it would at least solve the problem of hand cramping. I wanted a high-end airbrush as I felt that I'd outgrown the Aztek and I was disappointed that I was not getting the results that I wanted with the H&S. The moment that I started using the Grex TG .3mm I felt that I was now using an airbrush designed for modellers. People complain that they tried an airbrush at a modelling show and that it performs completely differently when they get home. Why? The first question is “did you actually try the airbrush with the paint that you intend using at home? The answer is usually “No I sprayed whatever was available at the show”. Model paint is expensive and generally people demonstrating airbrushes at shows use food colouring or a very thinned ink. This is not to try and trick you it is simply economics. Beauticians who use airbrushes to perform nail art will also prefer the .2mm needle because they are using gloss pigments (nail polish) which again flow more easily through the airbrush than do the flat military colours that we as hobbyists generally use. It’s important for model builders to understand that most high quality airbrushes are engineered with inks and gloss pigments in mind and not the flat paint qualities that model builders use on a regular basis. Let’s pause a moment Flat or Matt colors use in military modelling lacks shine (gloss) high gloss paint finishes reflect light and that is not something that is desirable when try to hide from an enemy. In fact for most military modellers they use a clear flat coat as the last sealing coat to get an even flatter finish. So what makes an acrylic paint Flat? The coarse molecule of the paint is what gives it a flat look and consequently increases the viscosity and this presents further inherent challenges of the paint flowing through the airbrush as compared to gloss paints and inks. While it’s possible to utilize the .2mm needle and nozzle combination for model building it does have limitations that could become challenging to the novice airbrush user. To begin with, most hobby paints, whether they are enamels or acrylics, require some amount of thinning to work in an airbrush. The range of proper thinning is very narrow when using a .2mm needle. If the paint is under thinned, then the paint will tend to spatter rather than provide a smooth flow of paint when attempting fine line work. If the paint is thinned too much then the paint ceases to perform as it should. It could become translucent when it should be opaque. The paint may not bond with the surface of the model properly either and easily buff or chafe off. Masking over it may also cause the paint to lift off the model as well. If you prefer to use acrylic paints specifically more problems could occur. For example, tip dry is a constant problem for most water-based acrylics. The smaller needle size will likely exacerbate the problem more. Also in regard to acrylics, even if the paint is thinned correctly, there is the possibility of an unusually large particulate of pigment in the matrix if the paint that can cause clogging issues as well. Going from a .2mm needle to a .3mm needle may sound like semantics but trust me, it does make a difference and will reduce or eliminate these problems. So you may ask, how does the .3mm needle still provide a fine line quality yet be a bigger needle size? As I mentioned above, the Grex answer to that is in the taper of the needle itself. Many of Grex’s competitors have what I call a compound taper to their needles. That is to say the needle tapers for a bit then it has a more extreme taper to the point of the needle. This can be seen if the needle is held against a white background showing the profile of the needle. While this type of engineering creates strength in the needle it compromises performance when it comes to detail work. If you look at a Grex needle it has one extreme taper that is consistent from tip to the full diameter of the needle width. Grex Airbrush needles are made of stainless steel to maintain integrity. However even with a strong metal such as stainless steel we recognize the needle can still be damaged. With that said Grex do no not charge an arm and a leg for a replacement needle to the consumer. Dealers offer replacement needles for around £10.00 or $12.00 give or take a few pence/cents. As such with the .3mm needle in conjunction with our fluid nozzle engineering a fine line capability is easily obtained with less precise thinning of the paint. Practice and knowing the qualities of your preferred brand of paint are still necessary however the likelihood of success is much greater. With regard to water-based paints, tip dry is still an inherent issue but at a reduced level. With all that has been said, I can say with confidence to the novice airbrush user the .3mm needle is a much preferred needle size to that of the .2mm needle. My suggestion to the consumer is to start off with an airbrush with the .3mm needle in it. If at some point with experience they wish to change the needle size they may do so. Grex Airbrush does provide TK-2, TK-3 & TK-5 nozzle kits, which are comprised of three components, the needle, fluid nozzle and nozzle cap, which are matched for the best performance possible. The TK kits are compatible with Grex Tritium TG and TS airbrushes as well as our new Genesis XGi and XSi airbrushes. The suffix number denotes the needle size in the kit, .2mm, .3mm or .5mm. Should the airbrush user wish to go down in needle size or go to a larger needle size for larger projects they have the capacity to do so. These kits retail for around £27.00 or $34.00. Grex offers the pistol grip style (TG Range) or the conventional airbrush with and ergonomic moulded cover that can be removed (XGi Range) both in a gravity feed or a side suction cup feed. The added bonus is of course the ability to use a Fan Cap for those really big projects, but that’s the subject of another aticle. Lastly, the TG annexe XGi range use a combined double action method for their trigger. The more you pull back and the press/depress the trigger means that you get more area and paint. I found that this allows me super fine control. Been able to regulate the travel in the air with the adjustment knob When people ask me if Grex provide a start to get the answer is yes, if I start to kit you mean everything to get you started - the airbrush, the compressor a DVD, the hose a variety of cups and a sample bottle of paint. If I start to get you mean cheap then the answer is ‘no’. There's an old saying buy cheap by twice. I spent a lot of time talking about needle size and I'm grateful to Bryant Dunbar for sharing his time and knowledge and for allowing me to use portions of his article. Sean Middleton October 2016
  21. Hi All, I've taken the plunge and have ordered an Airbrush and Compressor. I now have to decide what paint to use while I'm learning to use this new tool. I'd prefer to stick with a single brand to avoid any potential compatibility issues between paints, thinners and cleaners. I'd also prefer a brand that's reasonably readily available in Europe. I'll be spraying in a shed, rather than in the house, and have an extractor so strong smells aren't necessarily a deal breaker. Ease of use for a beginner and ease of clean up are high on my priority list. So what's your recommendation for primers, clear coats and colours? Is Vallejo a solid choice or should I be looking elsewhere?
  22. I am hoping this will prove to be the correct place to post this question: In a short while I will be off on holiday on my canal boat, I am signed-up for a GB so will be making an aircraft model during 'down time'. Space is a premium and I will be taking my spray booth but my compressor might be too much gear! I have used can propellant back in the day (small compressors used to be quite expensive back then) so I am reasonably aware of their shortcomings. Has anybody tried to fit a pressure regulator, as used on a compressor, to a propellant can? Would it work to supply the 15psi I tend to use, would it help to reduce the likely hood of icing-up as the airbrush demands would be less, would it cause the propellant to last longer by reducing waste? Hmmmm rather more than one question methinks! Thank you and I look forward to some constructive advise (in the meantime I will see if I can cobble together a suitable mechanism and give it a go.)
  23. I was wondering if it was possiabe to use a genuine badger paint head and needle in a copy airbrush that is on sale on ebay. This also goes for all the different makes that are copied I have a badger 150 with 2 heads I was just wondering if it was worth buying one of the copies to use the body to save the messing about of head changing. Rodders
  24. Hey, I have been modelling for about 7 years now, but have never looked into getting an airbrush. I have quite a few large, American WWII bombers (B-29, B-17 and B-25) which all have a bare metal finish, so I need something to get a smooth paint finish which can cover a wide area in a relatively short amount of time. I am also planning on buying an A-10, AC-130, B-36 and a B-52 (you see the theme running ) I looked online this morning and saw that the best airbrush for beginners would be a Single-Action, Gravity-Fed, Internally-Mixed one. Now, all I need help on is deciding what nozzle size and needle is best for a large area (I don't really need a high precision one I don't think). I also need to know what air compressor and cleaning kit would be best. My budget is £50 (I know its low, but I'm broke and I don't even know if I'll be good with an airbrush xD), and it would be nice if the airbrush came in a set with a compressor and cleaning kit. I also saw both the Revell and Humbrol airbrush sets (Humbrol also do a canned air 'power-pack'), with Revell having an airbrush and a spray gun (what is the difference?). These look quite cheap, so I was wondering about any of you guys' views on them. Thanks ) P.S. I use both enamel and acrylic paints. I guess I need to thin them for airbrushing, so what should I use as a thinner. I'm guessing water for acrylic, then would it be just white spirit or turp for enamel?
  25. Hi guys i bave recently got into airbrushing so i am getting to grips with priming my models i was just wondering do i need to thin the vallejo primer or should i spray from the bottle ? and if so what PSI should i be spraying ? thanks brandon
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