Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'ZERO'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Community Calendar
  • Group Builds
  • Model Show Calendar


  • Site Help & Support
    • FAQs
    • Help & Support
    • New Members
    • Announcements
  • Aircraft Modelling
    • Military Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Civil Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Aircraft
    • Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
    • Aircraft Related Subjects
  • AFV Modelling (armour, military vehicles & artillery)
    • Armour Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Armour
    • Ready for Inspection - Armour
    • Armour Related Subjects
    • large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above)
  • Maritime Modelling (Ships and subs)
    • Maritime Discussion by era
    • Work in Progress - Maritime
    • Ready for Inspection - Maritime
  • Vehicle Modelling (non-military)
    • Vehicle Discussion
    • Work In Progress - Vehicles
    • Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
  • Science Fiction & RealSpace
    • Science Fiction Discussion
    • RealSpace Discussion
    • Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
    • Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
  • Figure Modeling
    • Figure Discussion
    • Figure Work In Progress
    • Figure Ready for Inspection
  • Dioramas, Vignettes & Scenery
    • Diorama Chat
    • Work In Progress - Dioramas
    • Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
  • Reviews, News & Walkarounds
    • Reviews
    • Current News
    • Build Articles
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Walkarounds
  • Modelling
  • General Discussion
  • Shops, manufacturers & vendors
  • Archive

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 56 results

  1. Best I can do with my phone camera for the pictures my friends but here she is in flight mode. What a dream of a kit to build. If you can see it the cowling is black alclad gloss primer mixed with a tint of tamiya blue. I will post on ground shots tomorrow. Thanks for the hints and tips. Joel
  2. Greetings this is my A6M3 Zero Tamiya 1/48 straight from the box.
  3. Hello All Seems like Fine Molds will finally release their 1/72 A6M Zero as a stand alone kit https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10605699
  4. As discussed in my A5M4 thread I thought I might do another Japanese fighter. As I had a detail set for a Zero, that's what I'll do. I have several sweet Zero, including a floater but the individual packs annoyingly don't have hinomaru, so the only option was the boxed A6M3 in the grey/green scheme. As is sensible tradition I start with the office.. The Griffon photo etch set works wonders and speeds up/looks better than what I normally spend days scratching.
  5. Doyusha is to re-release three Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero Type 21 kits - ref.40247 - Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero Type 21 Source: https://hlj.com/1-32-scale-mitsubishi-a6m2-zero-type-21-dys40247 - ref. 40248 - Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero Type 21 bomber Source: https://hlj.com/1-32-scale-mitsubishi-a6m2-zero-type-21-bombing-dys40248 - ref. 40249 - Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero Type 21 Pearl Harbor attacker Source: https://hlj.com/1-32-scale-mitsubishi-a6m2-zero-type-21-pearl-harbor-attacker-dys40249 V.P.
  6. A model that should be replaced by a new tool soon by Tamiya, their A6M2 Type 21 in 1:48, because the top left wing was short shot and had to be filled. Brushpainted with Revell acrylics in RLM 02. I used the kit decals and sunk them in hot water so they would conform into the panel lines. The blue tailbands were painted.
  7. This is not a kit for the beginner, which is a shame as I don't know of any other small scale 2 seat zero kits around. The injected molded parts suffer from severe mold misalignment to the point where manufacturers had to include resin tail plane and other small pieces as the injected parts were junk. What they should have done was retooled the kit and made sure the parts were molded better. I built this model for a friend and fortunately he didn't want the aircraft in a target towing set up, because much of the tow gear was so badly molded it was unusable. Even so, the rear fuselage insert doesn't fit and that was built up with super glue and sprue. The nose and cowling are a mess, but I managed to carve out something that looks like a zero nose from the globs of plastic. The photo etch for the gear bays had to be trimmed to fit, but it wasn't too bad. Fortunately the vac formed canopy is nicely done and the decals are quite good. If you really want a 2 seat Zero in 1/72, I would suggest buying this kit and taking out the canopy, second cockpit, decals and if you must some of the towing and winch gear and grafting it onto the Airfix Zero. That said, I'm quite pleased with the end result of my hacking and sanding!
  8. I hereby post my second build as a Britmodeller: The Tamiya A6M2b Zero, a straight OOB build. A great little kit, lovely detailed, fits together like a dream. Paints: Tamiya XF-12 IJN Grey, Vallejo Model Air Interior Green. For the aotoke in the engine(which cannot be seen in the pictures anyway), I used Sotek Green from Citadel mixed with Vallejo silver. Gloss and matt varnish from Vallejo. Micro Set for decals. Canopy is handpainted, not too happy about it. I need to find a way to mask canopies for airbrushing, really don't want to buy masks online for every build. (Got a Heinkel from Revell in my stash, the canopy is the only thing putting me off building it.) For the wash, I used light grey pastel chalk in odorless turpentine. Paint chips were done with Vallejo aluminum paint on a small sponge, powder marks with black pastels. Great cockpit deal, almost a shame to have to cover it up.. As I am new to this, I would greatly appreciate any helphul hints, tips and constructive criticism. Best wishes for a happy, paint fume filled, Easter!
  9. This is not my latest build. But I didn't show it here before. Hope you like it.
  10. December the 7th. With 1/72 Tamiya's Zero and Airfix P-40 available (plus Starfighter "Pearl Harbor Defenders" decals), I decided to assemble the most known fighter types during the attack (still waiting for a suitable P-36 in this scale), and as they are quite small, thought that they would look better if shown together on a single base. Tamiya's A6M-2b was assembled out of the box, using the kit decals and paint instructions. It represents E11-137, Liut. Masao Sato, Carrier Division 5 Air Superiority Force, 2nd Strike Unit, aircraft carrier Zuikaku. The Airfix P-40 (I used the Curtiss Hawk 81-A2 kit, same thing) got the benefit of a small PE fret, and represents Liut. George Welch's fighter, 47th PS, 15th PG, buzz number 160, as far as information is available. Bot kits received some additional detail like brake lines and the correction of the wheel wells with simulated canvas in the case of the P-40. A map of Pearl Harbor was painted on a wooden base, a simulatedJapaneseaircraft carrier deck was built for the Zero and a dirt strip for the P-40. both pilot figures came from the Hasegawa WWII Pilots kits, and I guess that tuxedo pants and shoes color for Liut. Welch is ok. Marco
  11. Evening guys Been spraying a bit of zero paints primer this evening, as we know this stuff gives off a fair kick. I used a mask for spraying but nowhere near good enough, so my question is what masks do you guys recommend when spraying? All the best Matt
  12. Here is my latest completion: it's the new-ish tool Airfix 1/72 A6M2 Zero from the original release boxing. I took some liberties with the camo scheme, painting it like an A6M5; since this aircraft was from a training squadron later in the war, I figured that was reasonable. I am aware that the underside colour should probably be trainer orange yellow, but went with Gunze IJN Grey anyway. Paint chipping was accomplished with a silver pencil. It's the first time I've tried this and, while my technique still needs some work, I'm happy with this as my first attempt. It is easier than trying to dab random blobs of silver paint. Hope you like it! Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr Airfix A6M2 Zero in 1/72 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr
  13. Mitsubishi A6M Zero Detail Sets 1:32 CMK The Hasegawa A6M Zero has been around a long time, from 1978 in fact and that boxing is still available, as well as a couple of more recent new toolings. The six resin sets reviewed here can be used on any of Hasegawas releases, with a greater or lesser amount of preparatory work required by the modeller, depending on the kit used. While some of the sets are drop in replacement with more finesse than can be achieved with plastic, others will require the modeller to take a knife and sanding stick to the kit parts to fit the resin. All the resin parts will need to be removed from their moulding blocks and cleaned up, but this is a pretty simple task, with any cleaning up required only on surfaces that will not be seen once fitted. 5117 – Flaps. This set includes the moving section of the flap as well as the interior roof of the flap bay. To fit requires the kit flap to be cut away on the lower wing and the upper wing section thinned down until the roof section fits snugly. The moulding blocks are on the leading edges of each section and will not take much to part it off and clean up. The time will be taken up with thinning the roof down I’d imagine. But will look great when all is down and the resin fitted. 5118 – Tail Cone. This set requires the modeller to take a saw or knife to the kit and cut off the tail cone, beneath the rudder. In its place are resin parts for the rear bulkhead, tail wheel assembly, with separate shock absorber and wheel, and new tail cone halves. 5119 – Main Undercarriage Bays. These are almost drop in replacements as once the moulding blocks have been removed, and the upper wing plastic reduced in thickness, they are just glued into position. A little more work than using the plastic parts, but the detail is so much nicer. Do be careful when removing the moulding blocks though as some areas of the bay roof are quite thin already. 5120 – Undercarriage Doors. The main gear doors contained in this set are direct replacements for the kit parts, only much thinner and accurate. They include both outer and inner doors, as well as their respective actuators and clamps, but also require a couple of smaller kit parts to be used as well. 5121 – Wing Fuel Tanks. Now, this set is purely for those who want to go that little bit further with detailing their model and allowing diorama possibilities. The set includes two bays, two fuel tanks with some nice detailing, as well as the wing skin covers. You will first of all need to identify and remove the correct areas of the lower wing, which, looking at the kit isn’t that easy, fit the bays from the inside, fit the tanks and place the covers where you want within the diorama. Q32 277 – Wheels. This set is part of CMK Easy Line of resin replacements, and consists of just the two main wheels with a slight bulge tow show the aircraft has a bit of weight to it. Just remove the moulding blocks from the contact point of the wheel, clean up with a couple of swipes from a sanding stick then glue to the axle of the kit main legs. Job jobbed. Conclusion Care and patience will be needed to achieve a good fit will be the order of the day with some of these sets, whilst the others a more plug and play. A great selection of items from CMK, of course you don’t have to use them all, just whatever you feel comfortable with doing or what you want to achieve, so great for all abilities in one way or another. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Hello, i´m new here and wanted to share with you my most recent Build, the Tamiya 1/72 Zeke (Kit no. 60779 i think). The Kit is a little gem, it almost fell together by itself. Also was building this kit the first time i reriveted something, the only thing this little kit really needed. For paints i used Tamiya plus Vallejo Model Air and Metal Color, applied with a Painbrush. Also for the first time I sanded lightly the paint down bringing those rivets to life. Then some stains with a cotton bud, a light dark grey wash and a little bit of drybrushing. I hope you enjoy the Pictures! P.S.: I´m still figuring out how to properly take pictures with my camera and how to post them, so next time the pictures should be better.
  15. Hi all, I post a few pics of one of my last builds. It is the Tamiya A6M3 model 22 kit in quarter scale. I build it from the box using one of the kit schemes and decals. The paints are the new Tamiya IJN colors that were released with their 1/32 scale Zero kit. The only addition is adding rivets using a riveting wheel. The weathering is done with inks, pigments and Mig Ammo washes. P1050129 Have a good day, I hope you will like it, Christian.
  16. A new Hasegawa 1/32nd mould (The red logo below "2015 New" is "完全新金型" = Completely New Mold ) from the famous Zero fighter late type: Mitsubishi A6M5c Type 52 - ref.ST34 (08884) Release expected in September 2015 Source: http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/hp/2015ajhs/2015ajhs_scale.html V.P.
  17. I want to present my last model build, a Mitsubishi Zero in 1/72 scale from Airfix. It is part of the Pearl Harbor dogfight double set wich also includes a P40B Warhawk. I add the Eduard photoetched set for cockpit and exteriors. The canopy comes in one only piece so i decided to cut it, also the model is complete riveted. It was painted with Model Master Enamel paints, and wathering was with Model Master Acrylic washes and K4 pigments. Decals represent Pilot Lt. Shindo Saburo airplane, part of the 1st Squadron in the IJN carrier "Akagi"’s second wave on Pearl Harbor attack. 7th December 1941. Pictures: The P40B Warhawk post , part of the double set you can see here: Hope you like it.
  18. A6M5c Zero Update sets, Wheels & Masks - For Hasegawa Kit 1:32 Eduard The Hasegawa kit is a good one, however Eduard are along as always offering their update sets for the kit. Here we have 3 sets; Update, flaps and seatbelts. Also Brassin wheels are available Update Set This is one brass fret and one nickel one. The coloured parts on the nickel fret are mainly for the cockpit including the main instrument panel, side panels and controls. Other pars in the set include the rear decking behind the pilot, machine gun parts, rudder pedals, new landing gear doors, canopy handles, ribs for the landing gear wells, and wiring for the engine. Flaps This is one large brass fret which provides flaps for the kit. Unlike some sets where they twist round this one has individual ribs which must be added to the flap well. Seatbelts This small fret provides a full set of coloured seatbelts for the aircraft. These are the new Steel belts from Eduard. They are etched from 0.1mm sheet, which looks like stainless steel because it doesn't rust, these new belts combine the best of both worlds. The resulting etch is thin at around 0.06mm, and the paint that has been applied after etching is included in that thickness. The paint itself seems to be more flexible too, and the designs have added details such as shadows printed near buckles and joints to give an added depth to the design. They appear less susceptible to fatigue and will stand up to repeated movements, and can be posed much more realistically due to the ease of bending of the surface. The paint is also a lot less likely to flake off at a sharp bend, which is a worry for standard PE belts. Wheels The wheels are one area of a kit which really do benefit from resin replacement when they are this good. The wheels are individual units with the hubs as separate parts. The solid tail wheel is also included. Masks Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. Conclusion Whether you use one or all of these sets, they will enhance your Zero model. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  19. Hello! So my Lancaster, Gnats and 727 have been on hold while I've been moonlighting on another site doing a couple of group builds... sorry! But here's the first completed build for a while, a Mitsubishi Zero. Kit manufacture: Airfix Scale: 1/72 Type: Mitsubishi A6M2b Zero Extras used: Quickboost resin seat, Eduard mask set. Paints and colours used: Citadel Mithril Silver (prop, undercarriage), Citadel Chainmail and Boltgun Metal (base coat for chipping), Tamiya XF-71 (cockpit), XF-76 (underside), XF-70 (top colour), XF-17 (engine cover, props), XF-85 (wheels), Tamiya X-13 (wheel bay), Tamiya XF-3 (yellow bits), Tamiya XF-2 and XF-7 (roundels), Vallejo Polyurethane Primer, various Vallejo colours for detail. Clear coats were AK Gauzy Shine Enhancer and Tamiya Matt Coat, washes were Flory Grime wash and AK Engine Grease. Streaks added with burnt umber oils and Tamiya weathering set. The kit itself is good. Fit is generally excellent; basically no filleriller with the exception of the wing roots. You might get away without this with a bit of sanding etc. Detail is good. Not brilliant, but not poor either. Panel lines, in my opinion, are acceptable depth. Some areas, like the engine, I thought were really sharply detailed, as is the cockpit although you are unable to pose the canopy open OOB. Rivet detail was added by myself, and I was pleased with my first attempt. Decals are very good, although there aren't many and I masked and painted the roundels myself. Problems with the kit are, as ever with Airfix, soft plastic and large sprue gates which means care must be taken with part removal and cleanup. Overall, very enjoyable. Oh yeah, I beat the heck out of the paintwork, so if you're not a fan of over-weathering, look away now! I did exactly what you're not supposed to do and used imagination and other builds as references as opposed to actual photographic references. Fun it was, though! Comments, tips and feedback as always greatly appreciated. Oh, and apologies for my photography work! g So there we go, thanks for stopping by, Val
  20. my latest finished kit. the 21st century toys A6M5(though the box said A6M2)...it builds as a very early model52 with the collector exhaust rather than the more normal ones with the ejector styled exhaust..only about 200 were made like this. the kit is pretty much out of box except for the seat belts and tail codes that are from the tamiya kit but match an early A6M5 from rabaul. it was a pretty easy build but building large resin models is new to me.
  21. After a 40 year, or thereabouts, gap I have taken to the sticking things together and throwing paint at the result to see if it resembles anything like the instructions says it should. My main issue with this build was with the decals... the silvering effect, especially the red lines on the wings tried my hardest to get the yellow flashes on the wings to wrap around but failed spectacularly resulting in cracks and tears in places. Have thought about a paint touch up but is this wise? If so what colour will match? Any suggestions, advise etc...
  22. Hello Guys, Below are the images of my "Final Reveal" for the two Tamiya 1/48 Mitsubishi A6M2 Zeros (Zekes) that I built side by side, with one finished in the IJN Green Upper and Grey lower and one finished in the all over IJN Grey/Green. This build had a few firsts for me: 1) First time building Japanese Aircraft 2) First time using Johnson's Pledge/Klear Acrylic floor shine to see how I personally feel about it compared to the Model Masters clear coats that I have always used without issue since starting modeling in January 2014. 3) First time attempting heavy chipping using the "Hairspray Technique" on the IJN Green version only. After the images, I will include some notes regarding this build; my opinions of the kit in terms of quality, cost, value for money etc and any points to look out for if you decide to buy and build this kit. I hope you like the following views! Plane #1: 261st Air Group (Tiger Corps), Kagoshima Base, February 1944 Plane #2 Petty Officer 1st Class Saburo Sakai, Tainan Air Group, Denpasar Base, Bali Island, February 1942 And, some photos of both versions side by side for contrast and comparison: These are Tamiya's kit # 61016 that is the 2007 Type 21 version release. This kit was re-tooled in 2008 and updated a couple of times since then with new parts and decals. This kit is available from Scalehobbyist.com for only $10.84, about 7.00 quid in the UK, here is the link to their page: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Model_Aircraft/a6m2-type-21-zero/TAM00061016/product.php?s=0&t=0&u=0&micr=148&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&era=0,6&man=TAM The kit comes with a reasonably detailed cockpit, that has a decal for the instrument panel and a decently detailed radial engine. There are options to have the undercarriage up or down, the canopy closed or open and decals for 5 different markings; I modeled one with the canopy closed and one with the canopy open. The undercarriage is sturdy and nicely detailed, too. A 8 page black and white assembly/instruction booklet is included that is clearly detailed with part numbers, decal numbers and Tamiya paint numbers. The decals are typical Tamiya which I expected to have some breaking issues with, as I have with other Tamiya kits, but fortunately, these decals went down excellently adhering to recessed and raised details nicely. The parts are very crisp and cleanly molded with no ejector pin witness marks on visible areas, no warp, no flash and no aberrations on the clear molded parts. The exterior surfaces of the plane come with recessed panel lines. Scores out of 10: Packaging: The kit comes in a sturdy two part box- lower and lid format, the grey sprues are packaged in one polythene bag and the clear parts are packaged in a separate clear polythene bag that is within the larger bag. The lid has nice artwork on the front and the two longer sides show two of the five different markings available, one in the IJN Green and one in the IJN grey/Green. Score: 9/10 Quality of Molded Product: 10/10 Quality of Molded Details: 9/10 Engineering Fits: I had no issues with this kit, everything went together well and no need for filler anywhere! Score: 10/10 Quality of Decals: - it's a bonus to have enough decals for 5 different markings! Score: 9/10 Quality of Instruction/Assembly Booklet: It would be much better if Tamiya included color pages for the painting and decaling sheets and provide other paint manufacturers conversion colors instead of just their own paints. Score: 8/10 Value For Money: 10/10 Enjoyment Value: 9/10 If you are just coming across this build for the first time, thanks for checking in, but if you'd like to see the build thread for this build, here is the link to it: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234982300-tamiya-148-mitsubishi-a6m2-zero-zeke-x2-build-update-1/ You can also see my "Build Update" videos on my YouTube channel; here are the links for the 3 "Build Update" videos: Build Update #1 Video: https://youtu.be/PBuSMyQB9bY Build Update #2 Video: https://youtu.be/t96YKuENSL8 Build Update #3 Video: https://youtu.be/3Ecg5wrLr0o And, to go with this "Final Reveal" thread, here is the link to my "Final Reveal" video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/bGDtOdc3sVg Thanks to everyone who has followed this build thread both on here and on YouTube, and, for leaving kind and encouraging comments, it's greatly appreciated! Now, what should I build next? Hmmmmmmm..... Have a great weekend! Cheers! Martin
  23. Good day, gentlemen! Continuing to entertain you with my crafts, I bring to your attention the next model. This time it's Zero in a nonstandard state color. According to legend, it was one of captured specimen exported by Americans for study of construction and etc. Stains around the fuselage were formed by partial washout of a large layer of dust and dirt from exploitation. I have already said that I am racing in modeling with myself. The last photo shows Zero, which was made 6 years ago.
  24. Good day, gentlemen. This is my next Zero, but from Tamiya. Kit is very very nice, just wonderful! Very recommended for everyone. I builded it only in one weekend.
  25. I've just finished these Airfix Zeroes using the Tecmod transfers for no.140 flown by Lt. Sumio Nono from the carrier Hiryu and the Airfix Dogfight Double markings for no.102 flown by Lt. Saburo Shindo from the carrier Akagi. First the Hiryu aircraft: Then the Akagi aircraft: I built the kits more-or-less OOB with only a couple of changes, such as replacing the not-terribly-well-moulded pitots with Albion Alloys Aluminium Tube and Nickel-Silver Rod (I think I will use the next size up next time though, as these were so fine as to be almost invisible)... the kits went together very well with no particular issues (well, I had a bit of a hard time matching up the two halves of the auxiliary fuel-tanks but that could have been me in both cases) and were nice easy and quick builds. Edit: forgot to say I used Eduard micro-fabric seat straps too. I painted the interiors in Colourcoats Mitsubishi Interior Green, the exterior in Colourcoats Mitsubishi Grey-Green and the cowlings in Mitsubishi Cowl Blue Black from their Japanese Colours Range. Once decalled they were given a coat of Xtracolor Satin Varnish. I used (mostly) Techmod transfers for the Hiryu Zero and (again mostly) the Airfix kit transfers for the Akagi Zero. I had issues with most of the transfers not really settling down despite the ministrations of three different types of setting solutions; no idea how or why that happened but it was a bit of a downer when the assembly and painting had gone so well and so quickly. Fortunately the most egregious problems are not visible in the pictures but if you do see anything that offends you, please let it pass as it will have annoyed me even more. Long-winded build thread is here. Sorry for the rambling excuse-making and thanks for your attention Cheers, Stew
  • Create New...