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Found 51 results

  1. Streaking And Vertical Surfaces Brush Set (A.MIG-7604) & Dioramas & Scenic Brush Set (A.MIG-7601) AMMO of Mig Jiménez Brushes are an essential part of any modeller's toolkit, whether or not you use an airbrush for the majority of your paint application. Detail painting, touch-ups and weathering are all manual jobs that require some paint brushes, so with AMMO's goal of being able to provide specific tools and products to help us all achieve modelling nirvana, we now have a number of brushes available from them, which can be bought singly or in sets such as these. Each set comes in a long box, and contains four brushes that are individually wrapped, and protected further by a clear tube over the bristles and shiny metal ferrule. The handles are made of wood, and coated with a high-gloss AMMO yellow paint with the brand and size overprinted in black for maximum visibility and clarity, and the tip dipped in black too. The bristles are high quality synthetic, so no squirrels were harmed in their creation, and they are suitable for use with acrylic, enamel and oil paints with no worries about them melting! I have been using them for a little while to see how they perform, and have been pleasantly surprised at their quality. They hold their point (where appropriate) well, don't dry out too quickly in use, and when cleaned the paint leaves very little residue in the root of the bristles. Their light colour also makes it easy to see whether you have cleaned them properly, which is a bonus. Streaking & Vertical Surfaces Brush Set (A.MIG-7604) This set contains a long pin-striping (liner) brush in size 1 for individual streaking, two size 6 with a filbert (curved) and angled head, and a size 8 saw flat that has its bristles cropped to a castellated shape for multiple streaks in one swoop. That last one is a bit funky, and as long as you ensure that you don't create a line of uniform streaks, it works really well. The other brushes can of course be used for washes, oils and filters just as well as with ordinary paints. Dioramas & Scenic Brush Set (AMIG7601) This set has three round brushes in sizes 000 (written 3/0), 1 and 6, with another size 6 with a flat head for larger areas. The 3/0 is a nice brush for finer work, but its bristle seems larger than my other 000s, so bear than in mind. Conclusion If you're looking to stock up on brushes, this is a great way of doing so, and they're relatively inexpensive into the bargain, so you can get lots of different types and hone down to the ones you really enjoy using. There are a great many more brush sets than the two we've reviewed here, so have a mooch around while you're buying and pick some others out that might suit you too. Review sample courtesy of
  2. ALL LINES MASSIVELY REDUCED TO CLEAR - WASHES, PIGMENTS, OILBRUSHERS etc... Search here...
  3. I finished my first tank with a heavy weathering of mainly oil washes. Can I use acrylic matte varnish on top of that?
  4. Oil Brusher Paints AMMO of Mig Jiménez Using oils for weathering effects is hardly a new technique, but it has been occasionally hit-and-miss if you happen to buy the wrong oils with gritty pigment, or forget to let the oils "breathe" on a piece of card to wick away the excess oil that slows down drying and makes it harder to achieve certain effects. The lead foil tubes and their caps can also be an impediment, as they are prone to sticking in place if not used frequently, and we have all probably twisted a tube badly whilst trying to undo it at some point. Then there's finding a good brush to apply the paint, cleaning it afterward etc. etc. It can all be a bit of a faff. You know what's coming next, don't you? Let me introduce you to the new AMMO Oil Brusher system. Not the most exciting brand name, but very descriptive. These tubular pots of oil paint have been formulated not to need any oily residue wicking away, and the long black cap has a captive brush with a stiff set of bristles that works rather well. There is a scraper-lip inside the neck that removes the excess paint, and leaves the brush with just about the right amount of paint for the job in hand. The body of the bottle is clear so it's easy to see which bottle you have hold of, and there are 21 shades in the range at launch, with more on the way I'm sure. The screw cap coupled with the rigid body should prevent any clogging down the line, and if the lid does seize, there's plenty to get hold of to apply your massive forearm strength to. If that doesn't work, just run some hot water over the lid to soften any residue. Below are the available shades at launch: A.MIG.3500 Black A.MIG.3511 Red Primer A.MIG.3501 White A.MIG.3512 Dark Brown A.MIG.3502 Yellow A.MIG.3513 Starship Filth A.MIG.3503 Red A.MIG.3514 Earth A.MIG.3504 Dark Blue A.MIG.3515 Ochre A.MIG.3505 Olive Green A.MIG.3516 Dust A.MIG.3506 Field Green A.MIG.3517 Buff A.MIG.3507 Dark Green A.MIG.3518 Sunny Flesh A.MIG.3508 Dark Mud A.MIG.3519 Light Flesh A.MIG.3509 Medium Grey A.MIG.3520 Basic Flesh A.MIG.3510 Rust Following the initial releases, the intended subject matter has broadened with the colour range erring toward Sci-Fi, as evidenced by the Warhammer 40K and Gundam themed names of some of the more recent colours, which meshes with the (fairly) recent book and paint set releases that have firmly placed AMMO in the Sci-Fi miniature and modelling arena. This should attract a larger customer base from the widening of genre, although the Warhammer 40K guys are used to everything being available from their own shops, so that may be a tougher market to crack. To save you craning your neck due to the increased slant of the bottles in the picture, and risking injury, the colours are as follows: A.MIG.3523 Dusty Earth A.MIG.3531 Mecha Dark Green A.MIG.3525 Red Tile A.MIG.3532 Starship Bay Sludge A.MIG.3526 Space Purple A.MIG.3538 Silver A.MIG.3527 Marine Blue Streaking Brushers A new batch of Oil Brushers have arrived now, and these are intended as useful streaking colours, allowing you to apply an amount to an area, then later streak it in your preferred direction with a thinners dampened brush to mimic the effect of nature on rust, dirt and general grime. Very convenient! A.MIG-1250 Medium Brown A.MIG-1255 Winter Grime A.MIG-1252 Red Brown A.MIG-1258 Streaking Dust A.MIG-1254 Rust Clearly my test wasn't exhaustive, but was enough for me to get an idea of how the pigments would work. I experimented with streaking, shading, and "general grime", and considering the unsympathetic base colour white, the results were promising. Thanks as usual to my 1:72 He.111 wing for putting up with my experimentations. The thinners I used was some old stuff I had lying around but should give a fair representation. I've noticed during use that if you store your Oil Brushers upside down, or at least tilted so that the brush is exposed, that the bristles can dry out. This has prompted me to order the Oil Brusher Organizer, which you can find a link for below, as it's a good investment to keep your fine-tipped brush in good condition throughout the life of the product You will (as mentioned) need some high quality low odour thinners to blend the oils once applied, whether it is to shade an area, or to effect the oil-dot technique, but if you don't already have some on hand, AMMO have a 100ml bottle that is specifically designed for use with their products here. In use the pigment is dense, and finely ground so that gritty finishes aren't a concern, allowing you to streak, blend and paint without worry, whilst applying only as much as you wish to. Oddly, there is no fill level noted on either the bottle or the accompanying literature, but I found that they hold 10ML whilst rooting around their site. You can buy the full set or individually as you need them, but you may want to consider getting one of the new organisers that have been designed to fit the full 21, and has been laser cut from fine MDF with a white surface finish and the AMMO logo at the front. Highly recommended. Oil Brushers Streaking Brushers Organizer Enamel Thinners Review sample courtesy of
  5. to not pollute somebody else's WIP thread I thought I'd start a new one here! First some context: i copy/pasted everything from this thread: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235040296-panther-schmalturm/& @Das Abteilung @Soeren @ironwork @BlackMax12 @Badder @Retired Bob
  6. The Weathering Magazine - Die Cast From Toy to Model Ammo by Mig Jimenez We have now seen a few weathering magazines from Ammo and it is good to see they are keeping up the same high quality. There are 78 pages of glossy high quality paper in an A4 format, all in colour. As the title would suggest this edition concentrates on painting & weathering techniques to make your die cast models more lifelike, and less toy like. Even if you dont have any Die Casts the weathering techniques can be used elsewhere. This title features Excavators, trains, cars, trucks, figures & buses. Different products are show , though as the title suggests Ammo products feature. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Another good thing with Ammo publications is they are available in a wide range of languages if your first language is not English. Overall a high quality publication. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Hey guys, This is my first of hopefully many posts and builds on this forum. I'm relatively new to modelling having only two proper model kit builds to my name. This is my latest one - The 1/35 Panther D from Tamiya. I had never weathered a model before so this was a really fun build and I feel I learned a lot. You can probably tell I went pretty heavy on the rust and that (not very realistic for a Panther in Kursk I know...) I wanted to put it up here so you gents could take a look at it and maybe tell me what to improve for next models, I'm sure there is loads of things that could have been done better. But at the end of the day it's all a learning curve isn't it. By the way, please excuse the quality (rather lack of it) of the pictures, the next ones will be better. The last image is just a base I threw it on for a school project (didn't invest much time into I hated having to model for school purposes) My next project is a rather big one, diorama of Bologna airfield 1944, Italy. I won't give all the details here but If you're interested the first post will be up in the diorama section as well as one in the "other vehicles" section (first build is the 1/48 SS-100 from Tamiya) in the coming days. I'd appreciate it if you could help me out by telling me how it's going what I'm doing well, not so well etc... Kind regards, Jack
  8. Hi guys. This will be my first ever Group build. I'm very excited as this will be the closest thing to the Gloster Meteor dual build I did with @TheBaron last year. I have some ideas on what I'm going to do but I need to finish of my HP o/400 first. (next few days) I'll pop a pic of the box here as a kind of popping my flag in the sand. Hopefully you can join along with this and help an old dog (or should that be cat? ) out here and there along the way. I'll pop a bit more info and some pics once the old "page turner" is done and dusted. Take care y'all and Happy Modelling. Johnny. ps. this will be my little companion through this build, seems rather apt.
  9. Hello dear friends. I present you with my latest build that has been completed for the float plane group build that can be found here. (link to add) I ended up taking quit a lot more pics than needed hence this post but I though I'd share anyway. Hopefully you'll like them. We have for you today the.... Catalina PBY-5 "BLACK CAT" by Academy. She has been a venture into black paint schemes, salt weathering and many more new techniques that I'll strap in the old brain box for future builds. The WIP can be found here. WIP And the Gallery for the GB can be found here. Gallery I have also managed to squeeze in an RFI for my last build of the HPO400 "Last Days" that can be found here if you're interested. HP O/400 RFI Without further annoyance from my jabbering here she is. AAAAAnd there you go. Thank you fellow Britmodellers for letting me once again indulge my flights of fancy and post about a zillion pics of my latest endeavours into plastic and lead shot. Hope you have a great Sunday. I need to choose a new kit to build over Chrimbleton. Merry Christmas to you all. Johnny Cat.
  10. So... I've been trying to find a stockist of Tamiya Panel Line Accents, both black and brown, and MIG Streaking Grime in the UK that doesn't charge mouth watering prices. The prices abroad seem to be far cheaper (e.g. Passion132 do MIG streaking grime for just under €4 as opposed to over £7, but unfortunately you have to factor in shipping which then kills the saving). Then I had a thought; can I not just buy a tin of Humbrol gloss enamel and thin down as required? Are the panel line washes not just extremely thinned down ordinary enamel paints? If so, then I just need a tin of Humbrol gloss black 21 and gloss tan 9 for the two Tamiya panel line accent colours above? Does anyone know how to make an equivalent of MIG Streaking Grime?
  11. Hi, We've just received a restock from Mig.Ammo. There are a number of new products in with the general restocks. 20 new oil brusher colours, plus seven oilbrusher sets. Mig.ammo oilbrushers  - Sets & individual colours. Will hopefully have the 2 new RAF, muds and waters on the site tomorrow. Paul
  12. I've been interested in N Gauge railway modelling for many years but never really had the time or space to build a layout. It hasn't stopped me building up a good stock of rolling stock. I enjoy weathering and here is a selection of some that I've completed over the last few years. Thanks for looking. Cheers
  13. Hello I have been trying to get a bottle of Tamiya Panel Line Accent brown or black here in the UK but with no luck. Is there an alternative to this for highlighting panel lines?
  14. Ok so I am building this machine and if you look at the wing tanks they are somewhat weathered! I want to do likewise and wondered how I did this? Hair spray method? If so how do I do it? thanks Chris
  15. Weathering Aircraft Magazine - BASE Colors Ammo by Mig Jimenez I have now seen a few weathering magazines from AMMO and it is good to see the quality of both the printing and content is not falling off in any way. This issues deals with the BASE colour used on a model and how that effects the overall weathering process. It also helps when you have a model that is all over one colour, or a couple of major colours. Models covered in this issue are an F-117A, Bf 109, Red Arrows Hawk, F-14, Zero, Horten 229, P-38J; and Star Wars Starfighter N-1. The volume shows how important the base coat is to achieving the final look, and to what may go on top, and how that affects things. The various authors give a good account of the techniques used to achieve the required look. The pictures are clear and the accompanying text lays out the processes used to accomplish the finished models. Its up to the reader how far they take things. If nothing else the magazine give food for thought on how far the modeller wants to go with weathering. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Dealing how a base coat affects your final model it shows you what can be achieved in miniature. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Hi all, I have just finished doing some streaking (paint, not naked) with artist's oils and I still have more to do. I want to do some final weathering with pencils, pastels, etc. The question is how long do you need to wait before applying a top coat? The coat I have been paining over is gloss. The terpenoid thinner I have been using has dulled a lot of it but I am not finished yet and need to apply a final dull/matte coat.
  17. Hi all! I'm new to this - can the areas to where I have used this product then be masked with Tamiya tape for airbrushing? Or do I need to "fix" the weathering - jet pipe burns and "blue" in this case - with a varnish coat before masking? Thanks as always. Martin
  18. Hi all, I looking to the collective for advice a guidance. I've been modelling on and off since the mid 1960s but I've not really considered weathering until much recently. I practice and bit and then try it out on my builds. I am now wanting to portray a Super Sabre in standard US two greens/tan/grey but where the paint has been bleached by the sun. What techniques work best for this? I am considering the following: 1. standard paint pattern but all upper paints with a dot of white or sand added, just to lighten it slightly, 2. using a flory sand to accentuate certain areas 3. use a Tamiya weathering paste set to again accentuate Would that work? I wondered about a very very light dust with a weak sand paint mixed? I'd appreciate your guidance and thoughts. Thanks. Martin
  19. Hello My friends, Here is my Hasegawa's F-14D Tomcat with markings for VF-2. Its for an article about weathering on the Naval Jets. Hope you enjoy.
  20. Hello! After finishing my third model as part of the P-51 Mustang Group Build (link), I have decided to take some "risk" by taking one of the kits on my stash and try a few things I've been researching during a few months on the web and youtube related to painting and weathering techniques. I know that there are many other ways of finishing a model, but the ones I'm interested on are the following: - Priming - pre shading - post shading - chipping - oil washes - pastels The victim for this little project is a Focke-Wulf Fw190A-8 from Airfix in 1/72. Nice kit so far, not the best fit to say the least but it will serve the purpose. The paints I'll be using are only Tamiya acrylics, and I'm fully aware of the need of mixing these to approach to the RLM colors, but that would exceed the purpose of what I'm trying to do here. So I will only use the closest colors to my references, but I'm not trying to achieve any historical accuracy on this one. The primer is Tamiya grey and the silver for the chipping will be AS12 decanted and airbrushed. Clear coats will be future, X22 and XF86. For the chipping I plan to use liquid mask from Microscale products. Please feel free to correct me or suggest other ways and alternatives to do things at any moment. My intention posting this here is to have the chance to keep learning and I'm willing to know your opinions and ideas. So here are some shots of the process so far: Dry fit test and cockpit parts ready for painting: cockpit painted After first coat of primer So there she is so far, I'll update as soon as I have some progress. Thank you, Jorge
  21. Here’s my second RFI on Britmodeller, and my second model since taking up the hobby again. A 25 Year Falklands Anniversary boxing of the venerable Airfix 1/72 Avro Vulcan finished as XH558. Have been working on it for ages – I didn’t really appreciate what a big bugger it was until it started to come together – it was entertaining trying to shoe-horn it into my extractor booth! The tool is 80’s vintage, dating back to just after the Falklands War and it’s really showing its age with nasty raised panel lines and more flash than Gordon! Also the fit of the wings was the worst I’d experienced, taking an awful lot of filling and sanding. I discovered Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty and happily ditched my nasty smelly Squadron White Putty. I syringed in the new filler with one of their Pin Point Syringe thingys and then smoothed it with a wet finger or paintbrush – hardly needed sanding. Pity I’d already sanded off most of the surface detail by then getting rid of the blobs of rock hard Squadron! Airfix really should do a new tool for this aviation icon. Loads more firsts for me with this build: First airbrush camo and so first time with yards of white-tac worms and Tamiya tape. I had to choose the largest surface area for a 1/72 model and both sides in camo for my first try. Should have tried a Spitfire first! First resin – Freightdog tail pipes – see below. And isn’t resin dust horrible! First panel line rescribing – again, I had to pick this model! More little bits of scratch building rectifying mistakes or lost bits. More confident weathering I’m quite a fan of Vulcans so have lots of reference materials. The VTTS’ own books were the most useful with hundreds of great images along with the Haynes Manual and Aviation Classics magbook. Postings on this forum were also a great assistance. Finishing off a 1/72 Airfix Control Tower next as part of a diorama build and then onto the Dambusters Lanc! So happy looking and thanks to anyone who cares to comment! Laying down the camo Time to play dirty! Flory Grime all over my pride & joy, sloshing into my laboriously scribed panel lines. And underneath, with loads of nasty raised lines ... The Grime wash gave the model a nice 'used' look. I know they keep XH558 nice & clean but you can't disguise the wear & fading of a rather elderly airframe. I finished it with a gloss topcoat as it always seems to be gleaming in the pictures! Didn’t have much fun with the decals. I don’t know what vintage they were in my 2007 25 year Falklands anniversary box, but they pretty much all suffered from silvering around the edges that no amount of MicroSol/Set could cure. Irritatingly some of the decals broke up on handling even after a coat of Humbrol Clear so there was a bit of patching needed. From photos, I noticed that there was some discolouration around the front cockpit windows so I tried to replicate that. You can just see the face of the co-pilot through the side window! Only noticed quite late in the day that there are two small side windows for the other crew shown as a recessed circle. Had I noticed earlier, I would have drilled them out & shoved some clear plastic in. I think I read somewhere that there’s a Deluxe Materials product you can brush on from the inside to imitate glass – would have been perfect for here. The numerous hours spent rescribing the panels lines on the top surface were worth it in the end. I wonder what that white/silvery panel along the spine at the top is for? Not sure what the odd shaped discoloured panel at the bottom of the tail fin is for – I saw it removed in a picture when they were doing servicing. Any ideas? I tried to replicate the fading seen on today’s airframe. For the rivet counters amongst you, I followed the instructions from my 2007 pre VTTS kit which told me to put the pod on the side of the taper behind the tail fin. Not sure what it is or what it’s for, but subsequently I saw from photos that XH558 doesn’t have it. Rather than prise it off and have more filling to do, I’ve left it as a tribute to other Vulcans and even adorned it with the appropriate decal! It also told me to paint the air intake interiors white so had the joys of trying to paint them in camo once assembled. The Freightdog Models tail pipes. I bought them after I’d assembled the wings to the fuselage but soon realised that they should have put in during assembly so my first experience of resin was a bit scary! Lots of sawing, hacking, sanding, filling, sanding etc. But I’m really happy with the result – much better than the originals. I retro-fitted some extra nose weight just in front of the bomb bay after fitting the resin tail pipes as per the Freightdog instructions but it’s still a bit tail happy & will tilt back with a bit of a nudge! I scratch built a sort of coffin with one half of a Blue Steel missile, filled it with lead shot and glued it under the front wheel well. It’s not quite forward enough and also partially melted the roof of the well! Couldn’t face the idea of rescribing the under-surfaces – would have taken me weeks! Apart from giving the surface a nice ‘used’ patina, hardly any of the grime wash stayed on the raised panel lines. The bomb bay was a big disappointment on this model – the doors were really thin & flimsy. I built some ribs out of sprue which helped but in the end they were held in place with filler more than anything else! After it was all sealed up I found that you can get after market bomb bay detailing – will save that for my next Vulcan build! Would have loved to have added some extra detail to the wheel wells – will save that for a subsequent build! Just a bit of dirty goo for this one. Thanks for looking!
  22. Hey guys - I want to try using oils for weathering washes. Any tips? Doesn't the oil take an age to dry? Do you just use 'standard' oil paint from the tubes? Thinners?
  23. Weathering Aircraft Magazine - Chipping Ammo by Mig Jimenez This is now the second Weathering Magazine from Ammo that I have seen, and this seems to be of the same high quality. There are 66 pages of glossy high quality paper in an A4 format, all in colour. As the title would suggest this edition concentrates on paint chipping seen in various degrees on aircraft. In addition to photos of the real thing there are models from different eras and genres showing off the techniques. These include a French Navy Corsair, Russian operated Hurricane, Japanese Ki-84; and a Star Wars Y-Wing among the builds featured. The different authors show different styles of chipping, though as the title suggests Ammo products feature. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  24. Morning all! I've always rather liked the Gulf War Tornado ZA465- otherwise known as Foxy Killer and so it would have been absurd if I was to pass up the opportunity to model this fabulous example of British aviation. Kit: Revell 1:72 Tornado Gr.1 (From my LMS- Mike's Models) Extras: Print Scale- Tornado Gr.1 Gulf War nose art (From Hannants) -Scratchbuilt RBF tags made from paper and FOD covers made from tissue paper. Paints Used: Vallejo: Black, White, Medium Olive, Barley Grey, Red. The "Desert Pink" colour was created from a variety of Vallejo paints mixed together. AK Interactive Dust Wash used for weathering the wheels *Note: I can't guarantee that this model is entirely accurate: Thanks for having a look! Kind regards, Sam
  25. Weathering Magazine - What If Ammo by Mig Jimenez This is the first Weathering Magazine from Ammo that I have seen, but I have had sight of some of their other publications and this seems to be of the same quality. There are 77 pages of glossy high quality paper in an A4 format. These cover 3 Tanks, 2 aircraft, 1 flying saucer (well it is what if!), a Tie Fighter; and one Mech alternative history idea. There are also 5 pages of "What if" ideas to spark some imagination. The pictures are clear and the accompanying text lays out the processes the contributing modellers used to accomplish the finished models. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Even though dealing with "what if" subjects the techniques are equally at home with other subjects. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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