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Found 70 results

  1. Kick-off Hello, I have spent the last 6 months working on a scratchbuilt Mig 15 and that project is now drawing to a close. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012524-mig-15-scratchbuild/& Consequently, I've been thinking a lot about my next project and after much deliberation, including considering a very, very wide range of possible subjects, I have decided to try something completely different to my usual aviation related fare. I am going to try to build His Majesty's Australian Submarine AE2. This is a project that I has been in the back of my mind for over a decade now and when a fellow modeller offered to lend the following set of plans to me, all thoughts of other projects evaporated. In my view Allied submarines in WW1 are under represented in the modelling world, so I'm going to try to do my little bit to correct this. AE2 was an early E-Class submarine operated by the Royal Australian Navy. On the evening of 25 April 1915 (while the Gallipoli landings were underway) she successfully penetrated the extremely formidable Turkish defences in the Dardenelles Straight and proceeded to 'run amok' in the sea of Marmara. During a short-lived but very intensive period of raiding she caused considerable disruption to Turkish attempts to reinforce and supply their defences on the Gallipoli peninsula. On the 30th of April AE2 was damaged by the Turkish torpedo boat Sultanhisar and, unable to dive to safety, her captain decided to scuttle her. All hands survived the scuttling and spent the rest of the war as P.O.W's in Turkey where they suffered terribly. Four of the vessel's compliment of 32 died during their incarceration. In 1998 the wreck of the AE2 was located and found to be in remarkably good condition, mostly due to it's partial immersion in anoxic mud. A thorough campaign to preserve the wreck in-situ continues to this day. The possibility of recovering the wreck has been discussed at length, and although probably technically feasible would be a very high risk and highly expensive project. So - in the meantime a model will have to do! I have not yet started any physical construction - so there's not a lot to see yet but, most unlike me, I have been conducting some additional research. And just as well too because it turns out that the drawings above are for a mid-war configuration E-class submarine which in some significant regards was different to the early war AE2. For example, the mid war submarine had a gun mounted ahead of the conning tower and had two forward torpedo tubes instead of AE2's single tube. There are other differences also. Suffice to say that this set of plans from the RAN's historical page on their website will help me nail down the correct configuration. The model itself will be: 1 / 100 scale Waterline - surface trim Scratchbuilt - although I might resort to some aftermarket details here and there. It will not be a cutaway (despite various people suggesting the idea) Predominantly made from wood, but expect to see some brass and plastic sheeting and a few other bits and pieces as well. I am hoping to have physical construction under-way this week and am aiming to have it finished by the end of 2017 but really don't have any idea how long this will take as I'm completely new to this maritime modelling lark. My plan for this job is basically to 'muddle through' so any encouragement and expert advice from the sidelines will be most appreciated! Best Regards, Reconcilor
  2. rob Lyttle

    Short 184 at RNAS Newlyn.1916-18

    First effort at posting some drawings. I'll build it bit at a time if it works. Any feedback more than welcome. RAL First one's a bit contrasty for a pencil drawing?
  3. Martin Axe

    My first biplane build help needed

    Guys, currently struggling to complete my first ever WW1 subject the Eduard Albatros DIII in 1:48, it was suggested as a good kit for the newbie to biplanes. l’m at the stage of matting the fuselage, lower wings with the main upper wing, but don’t possess a ‘jig’ and have struggled to find one available on line. Doe’s anyone have any tips on this stage of construction and the best way to tackle it? Also has anyone got any suggestions for a home made jig? any tips or suggestions would be appreciated,. cheers Martin
  4. Hi all, well it's taken me a while to find the time to get some RFI pics of this project, my first ever sea scape, and only my second ever ship model - but we're here now! Having obtained a Revell 1:1200 Titanic kit, I thought it might be fun to do a kind of 'what if' job on it, to show what the Titanic might have looked like had she survived her fateful maiden voyage, and been subsequently pressed into military service with the outbreak of WW1 - just as her sister ships the Britannic and the Olympic had. I guess like many people I have always found the story of the Titanic a compelling one, with new plot twists being uncovered with every passing week it seems. In recent times I also learned of the fate of her sister ships Olympic and Britannic; most notably the Britannic, which was sunk in 1916 by a mine in the Aegean Sea whilst in service as a hospital ship. The Olympic too had her share of incident; although the ship was never sunk, she was badly damaged in a collision with HMS Hawke in 1911. Amazingly, 2 people survived all 3 incidents: John Priest, a stoker, and Violet Jessop, who served as a ship's steward on Olympic and Titanic, and went on to serve as a nurse on the Britannic. I had a lot of fun putting this together; the WIP can be found here for those sufficiently curious. Thanks to all for your comments along the way. Here, then, are some pics of the finished article: Thanks for looking in, comments and criticisms all welcome
  5. I have built five WW1 aircraft dioramas over the years 2000-2016 for the Canadian Aviation and Space Museum in Ottawa Canada.This all came about by chance and luck, chance, because I had just stopped teaching woodcarving at the time due to illness and luck because my first diorama was seen online by a fellow artist who worked for the museum and asked me if my stuff was available for donation with income tax relief.Of course, I was extremely happy because I had been wondering where I would keep such a large piece in my home in fact at the time I was working on an old TV cabinet that was to become its permanent home.One thing led to another and I ultimately built them five dioramas which are now on permanent display.It has been great to find a second career at sixty and make a little money too.Cheers! John.
  6. Good afternoon. I present to you my build of Combrig's re-boxing of U-Boat Laboratorium's UB I type coastal submarine in 1/350, painted as UB-2 (though the plaque says UB 1). From the kit's instruction sheet: "UB-2 entered service on February 18, 1915 and was attached to training Kurland flotilla. An experienced sailor oberleutnant-zur-see Werner Furbringer, future high-scoring U-boot commander and 'Blue Max' winner, became her first captain. "Having successfully completed training UB-2 passed to Flandria to a first line unit. Sincethe beginning of May 1915 up to the end of December 1916 she completed 40 combat cruises and sunk 11 vessels. In January 1917 the submarine transferred to a training flotilla and served there until the end of the war." My first resin ship kit, and was very simple to build; she's barely 3 inches long! The hull was a single piece with the other parts being the rubber assembly, rigging, railing and various other parts. And I lost the propeller. I scratch-built the masts from brass rod and some of the rigging wires with nickel wire. I used Mig Ammo Medium Grey and Citadel Abaddon Black for the paint scheme, and a Copic liner for the face. Weathering was done with an oil paint dot streaking method and Mig Ammo's Rust Oilbrusher. Enjoy!
  7. Hi folks, Here is my completed Meng Whippet Tank. Please let me know what you think of the weathering. I think I may have gone overboard a bit, but somebody else thought it was understated. Constructive criticisms are very welcomed. IMG_3434 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr IMG_3441 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr IMG_3440 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr IMG_3439 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr IMG_3438 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr IMG_3437 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr IMG_3436 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr IMG_3435 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr IMG_3432 by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr
  8. I bought one of these recently. It's a nice little kit: Vaux2 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux1 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux3 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux4 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux6 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux5 by John Walker, on Flickr Very neat indeed. I do wonder if Battleship Grey might be a more common colour for WW1 ambulances than khaki? I'll also have to think about how to display the interior, as the kit is designed to be built buttoned up. John
  9. Hello All, Just thought I’d post my last build - the Wingnut Wings Dolphin. I did some minor surgery to open up a couple of engine cowlings as it seemed a shame to hide the lovely detail. Will be making an appearance in ‘Scale Aviation Modeller’ shortly. Thanks for looking Guy
  10. Corsairfoxfouruncle

    WW 1 concrete cargo vessels

    Hello all, not a ship builder yet. But wouldnt mind being one. Sadly a very restrictive $ budget and severe limit of display space prevents me from considering it for the moment. Now for my Question. I have read in a couple of non-naval connected books about a group of cargo ships with concrete for hulls. These were supposedly used during the latter stages of WW 1 for the basic idea as torpedo proof. Hence why i posted here. The descriptions i have are of "common shape to a steel hulled ship. Steam propulsion most likely by coal.the top speed referred to was a maximum of 8-9 knots at full power. After the war I've read that these ships were of little interest to commercial companies and private owners after the war. They were supposedly scuttled in shallow waters near chesepeake bay to become a series of islands. The reference also includes that in the 60's or 70's the remains were in an area that had become overgrown wetlands and salt marshes. I have scoured the internet for years trying to find any reference to these "concrete" ships to verify wether this was fact or fiction. The idea is sound. The evidence i can put forward for my argument is this. In WW2 the allies built, floated, and used the floating concrete harbours during the post "operation overlord" phases. They were called Mulberries as im sure you know. This and that Churchill had proposed the construction of the picrete aircraft carriers to be used as cross atlantic cargo protection. I know the picrete carrier was never built but a small scale prototype was started, built, and floated in hudson bay in 1942. Ive seen film evidence of this. Now has anyone ever heard of these ships ? Are they real or fiction ? If real does anyone know of blueprints/plans/photos/names ? If they were real has anyone ever modeled them ? Last if they are real can they be seen via google earth satellite imagry or overhead photo's. Has anyone ever seen them if they are real ? Just trying to solve a mystery that has plagued me for a long time. All help is welcome. Thank you in advance.
  11. My fellow modelers, my on-again, off-again relationship with this project has now finally found an end. Like in every build so far there were some first-timers for me: First model kit in 72nd scale. First armor kit since returning to the hobby. First time dealing with all that glorious mud, grime and dirt poducts. Felt like a kid in a puddle, lol. The kit itself is nearly perfect. Awesome details, great fit and six varied schemes to choose from. The real challenge, at least for me, were all those incredible tiny parts. Keep in mind that Renault built a tank with 5 m (16.4 ft) of length and 2.14 m (7 ft) of height. Beside the priming the whole build took place under the magnifier. There is an interesting fact about the history of this tank: Renault started production in 1917, late in WW1. Thus most of them never saw action on the field. This one was, like many of its kind, transferred to the French colonies to ensure dominance of the occupying force. Later, after the armed truce of Compiègne (06/22/1940), in which the Germans allowed France to keep its colonial forces armed, this vehicle became part of the Armee de l'Armistice. The writing on the turret states "Le Champagne". For the presentation I cut and sanded a piece of ebony. What a great material! I finish with the obligatory scale picture. Looking forward to your comments and suggestions. Torben
  12. Good afternoon. The Renault AM 1914 Armoured Car: From Tanks-Encyclopaedia: This first model was accepted and fifty units were built until early 1915, as 4×2 AA vehicles with an open air rear compartment, armed with a single 8 mm (0.31 in) St Etienne light machine gun. It was relatively lightly armored, with vertical plates between 4 and 6 mm (0.16-0.24 in) in thickness. These enclosed the closed driving compartment (with a single wide armored shutter), while the rear compartment was open, large enough for two operators (loader and gunner). Access for all crewmen provided through this open compartment. The machine gun was protected by a large frontal shield, with a mounting providing full vertical manual elevation (90°) and traverse. It had ammunition supplied in 8 mm/24 cartridge strips. This model had a ground clearance of 24 cm (9.5 in), 3.35 m wheelbase (132 in), with a 4×2 front steering with manual transmission, and a Renault water cooled petrol engine. The axles rested on leaf spring suspensions. Although a hundred were originally ordered, only 50 were built before their limitations were discovered. The AA mount was problematic, and the rate of fire and range were not sufficient for their intended rôle. Also, the armor was too light to protect against shrapnel and machine-gun rounds, while the open compartment left the crew vulnerable. But, probably worst of all, the front wheel drive proved ill-suited in operations. In 1916, all 50 were taken over to be rebuilt to the mle 1915 standard, which resembled thePeugeot armored car, with a short barrel 37 mm (1.46 in) gun or Hotchkiss LMG behind a shield. After a long and frustrating build (and waiting for the right camera, lens and set-up), I have finally completed and photographed this 1/35 resin model of the Renault AM 1914 from DaMo. Parts kept coming off and/or getting lost, but it all worked out in the end. One of the lamps has been whisked away to whatever fantasy realm lost parts go to. Paints used were Vallejo Model Air Dark Green as a base then mixed with black for the shaded areas and Mig Ammo Cremeweiss for highlights, various Citadel paints for the interior parts, Vallejo Model Air grey (of some form), Mr Hobby Tyre Black, Humbrol Gunmetal Metalcote for the Hotchkiss gun and Van Dyke Brown oil paint for the wooden parts. Weathered with dark and light rust oil paint for rusty streaks and the exhaust system, the chipped paint is Citadel Skavenblight Dinge dabbed on with a bit of sponge, bare metal is dry brushed Citadel Leadbelcher, and Mig Ammo Washable Dust was used to represent dust and dried mud on the wheels and chassis.
  13. For your perusal...HR Models Hanriot HD-2 floatplane. This was a nice little kit but needed a certain amount of TLC and skill to build. The instructions were rudimentary but sufficient and I ended up using plenty of on-line sources for the rigging, alternative views and weathering. I love making early floatplanes and aside from this kit (and others from HR), the Roden Albatros W-4s, and a couple of other more obscure kits, there aren't a lot out there in this scale. The rigging is a mix of .004 fishing line ( which means a lot of drilling!) and some stretched sprue for the little bits. Paints are all Vallejo and the decals are OOB, as is the build. --JDCM
  14. Hi folks, Well, it's a matter of some embarrassment that having been a member of this great forum for nearly a year now, and I've only managed one WIP thread. Truth is, I've not actually built much during this period, mainly due to a lack of spare time! Further, even those few things I have managed to put together have been pretty ordinary by the standards being shown on here by others, so I guess you could say I've spared you! So, in thinking about what I could contribute, I've been trawling my stash looking for a not-too-complicated (for my benefit), but unusual (for yours) subject. In this particular model I believe I have something. Having made extensive use of the forum search facility, I have found no other references to this particular aircraft! Please, please, don't now tell me that there is but I missed it! OK, so the traditional opening pics, external box-art, sprueage, destructions etc. Box front: The rear of the box shows the available options for livery/insignia/markings, including 2 Russian, one Belgian, one Swiss: From a modest bit of research it transpires that one could, with appropriate third-party decals, also add French, British, Spanish and indeed German to those options. Finally, given the aircraft's civilian, pre-WW1 origins, a completely insignia-free option would be entirely feasible. For me, I am going for the option as depicted on the box front: the mount of Captain Pjotr Nesterov of the Imperial Russian Air Service. Nesterov distinguished himself, in the days before aircraft with mounted weapons, when in August 1914 he became the first airman to bring down an enemy aircraft - by ramming it. Sadly this encounter proved to be his own undoing, as he and the 2 occupants of the German aircraft he rammed, crashed to earth and died from the resulting injuries. The parts inventory is fairly compact - one sprue: As seems to be typical for AZmodel, the instructions and parts list diagram are brief! It appears, from the instructions and indeed the parts supplied, that it is possible to make a Type G or a Type H as is one's fancy. For me, it's got to be 'G'! I am hoping to add as much detail as I can to an out-of-the-box build, but it will of course be within the confines of my own limited abilities, so it's not likely to be much. So that's where I will leave it for now. Hopefully this will be of modest interest to someone in the days/weeks/months/millennia to come!
  15. Many moons ago I kind of started on this kit, I got a far as gluing the bulkheads to the floor, dry fitting the parts and tried to figure out how to position the gunner's tunnel where it made sense - gave up on that idea and quietly put it back in the box and placed a few more models on top of it hoping I'd forget about it and my kids could dispose of it after I was long gone. Well, the bug has bit to finish up those models that were never finished. I struggled with the fuselage trying to get the length of it not to look like a worm, as this one had a tendency to want to curve sideways. So after fighting this issue for 10-12 minutes I decided to glue it up as true as I could sighting down the spine. I'll then then add the extra bracing details in the interior. The tunnel was both glued with Tamiya glue and acc'd in place and then liberal amounts of Tamiya putty was used to blend it into the side walls and bottom of the fuselage. I don't remember building a kit with this much putty being used in the first hour nor having to use every clamp I have available and wishing I had more. Anyway we are off and running.
  16. Just finished the 1/48 Special Hobby Nieuport 10. Use the kit's decals, rigging done with ceramic wire and fishing line. Added the hole in the top wing for the observer to get access to a machine gun mounted on the front spar with the exception of the prototype photos in the Datafile and a few books I can't find where the MG was ever mounted here on the production types. The hole shows up in a number of photos of the aircraft in service so I added as I wanted an early war Nieuport. Lots of discussion on various web forums as to th color of the tapes on the fuselage and wings. Some say black, brown with the latest theory being in the blue-gray camp (same color as the Adrian helmets) so throwing caution to the winds I went with the blue gray. I initially laid down an Amtrak blue (Microscale) on the wings and then brush painted to blue gray over the top. I then got the idea of painting the blue gray on the decal sheen and cutting out the tape - which worked out perfectly (but needed Walthers Solvaset to get the decals to lay completely flat). Castor oil staining done with water based oils. Same with the mud on the tires and under the wings. I do have a 'work in process' on this subject if interested.
  17. St Chamond French WW1 tank, Late build Takom 1:35 History The Char St Chamond was only the second heavy tank to be manufactured by the French during WW1, its predecessor being the much more diminutive Schneider. By order of the French Government 400 were made between April 1917 and July 1918 with the first seeing action on May 5th 1917. Weighing in at a mighty 23 tons the tank was the most heavily armed of the entire war with no less than four 8mm Hotchkiss machine guns as its secondary armament and the 75mm Schneider Canon as its main armament. With a length of 8.9m a width of 2.7m and a height of 2.4m the tank was able to accommodate a crew of which included the Commander/Driver, Gunner/Loader, Assistant Gunner, Mechanic and four Machine Gunners. The downfall of the tank was a combination of the grossly underpowered engine along with the massively short tracks and over extended body. When faced with crossing trenches and other such obstacles ground clearance became a major issue and the tank would simply sink nose first into the terrain. Even though the early variant went through a series of modifications, reports suggested that crew members hated it. The tank crew suffered from a combination of unbearable noise, extremely hot environment, toxic poisoning from the engine, and an incredibly rough ride leading to a feeling of sea sickness. Only one static example of the St Chamond remains today (a late version) that being on display at Musée des Blindés in Saumur France. The Model This is the second kit Takom have released of the St Chamond with the earlier version being reviewed here. Although at first sight there is very little difference between the early and late versions there is enough to warrant this late version. The late version differs in that it has a deeper looking hull due to the more angular roof line and the removal of the four distinctive roof mounted turret like sighting blocks and searchlight mounting with just one square block on the front left hand side. The exhaust and intakes are also different, as is the main gun. The well illustrated top opening box contains five sprues of sandy yellow styrene and two of a darker brown. All the parts are very nicely moulded with no sign of flash, moulding pips, or other imperfections that would be visible on the completed model. This is due to the fact that any ejection pin marks are all on the inside of parts so very little clean-up will be required. The main hull is moulded with roof and sides as one piece and is a lovely piece of moulding with all the rivets and other details nice and crisply done. The build is relatively simple and with the clear, easy to read instructions it should be an enjoyable build. Well, at least until you get to the painting stage. Construction starts with the fitting of three strengthening beams on the roof along with two plates, one on the centre roof section and one on the observation tower. The two part door on the right hand side of the hull is than attached, followed by the eight roof hatches. There is a separate roof section just forward of the roof midpoint. This is fitted with two hatches before being glued into position, while the front observation tower is assembled from five parts, four sides and the roof, and then fitted to the front right hand side of the tanks roof. This is followed by the two part exhaust manifold and the long exhaust pipe which travels across then to the rear almost to the end of the roof. The front glacis plate is next with the fitting of the 75mm gun, which is made up of four parts before being slid from the rear of the plate into position. The front of the plate is fitted with three strakes and a grab handle before being put aside to set. Each of the four machine guns is assembled from a single piece gun, two piece trunnion, trunnion mount and hull mounting plate. The completed glacis plate and machine gun mounts are then fitted in position in the hull section, with a machine gun on each side, one forward in the glacis plate and one aft on the rear bulkhead. Two pistol port covers are then fitted from the inside, one per side next to each beam machine gun position. Two support struts are also fitted internally, which will go toward supporting the tanks lower hull. Due to the problems with the short tracks, particularly in get out of trenches and the like, they were fitted with barrel like rollers, with two at the front and on larger one to the rear. In the kit the two front ones are made up of two halves, one of which includes the axels. When fitted to the lower hull they are covered by two box like parts, allowing the rollers to turn, should you wish them too. The rear roller also comes in two parts, which when glued together are fitted with two axle mounting frames. The five piece rear frame to which the roller is then fitted also mounts two drive shafts for the track sprocket gear wheels. Before the rails can be fitted to the underside of the lower hull they must be built up form two large and two small rails, which are then fitted out with the numerous suspension mounts, stops and support brackets. To the rear the main drive axle is attached and covered with the bearing/drive gear housings. The return rollers, five per side are then fitted along with their outer axle rails. The drive sprockets and gear wheels are then fitted to the rear axles along with the outer mounting beam. The two idlers are then fitted to their mounting yokes before being attached to the front of the complex suspension rails, which are fitted out with the suspension mounts, cross hull suspension arms, and inner road wheel axle mounts. Each of the six inner axle mounts are fitted with three road wheels, each of which is made up of an inner and outer wheel and capped off with the outer axle beams. The idler wheel yokes are then attached to the front outer axle beams with four U shaped clamps. The individual suspension springs are then attached to the top of the suspension beams and the whole assembly is fitted to the lower hull. With the lower hull now sitting on the wheels the large wheel arch hull plates are attached, followed by the lower and upper hulls being joined together. The rear hull plate is then attached and fitted with a towing eye and shackle, completing the hull section. The last section of the build involves the tracks, which are made up of five parts for each of the thirty six links required to complete a track run. The track pad is a single part with five sprue gates, but these are on the edges, so relatively easy to remove with a pair of nippers and a sanding stick. The "chain-link" parts make up the remaining four parts, one of which you glue to the track pad, the other you snap into position at one end, and then rotate to snap it into the other end. The instructions aren't especially clear, but once you’ve cut a couple of links from the sprues, it will all become clear. Build up a full set of B1/B3 parts, link them all together on the flat, and add the B2 parts one-by-one. There is a single ejector pin mark on the inner face of the track pad, but once you have the link assembled, it won't be seen so you can ignore it. The final link to create the loop involves adding the track pad last to complete the run. Once complete you may wish to go and have a drink and a lie down. Decals There are four markings supplied with the kit, all of which have a disruptive camouflage scheme of four or five colours. There are few decals other than the vehicle's artwork for its name, plus the unit on the sides and registration number on the rear, so the decal sheet is quite small. A number of the decals have an off-set white drop-shadow style background that is not to be confused with poor registration, but the alligator motif and Sa Bigorre name are nicely produced in a rugged, hand painted sort of way. All four schemes will require some careful painting over a base coat of pale grey, but there is only one scheme that is shown complete on all sides of the tank. The other three are shown only in profile of the left hand side, which isn't even rectified by the pictures on the box sides, so you will either have to try and find some all round plans/photographs or make it up as you go along, who's to know? From the box you can build one of the following: "Sa Bigorre" 3o Batterie de ce Groupe, Colonial Artillery Group, Early 1918 in pale grey, sand yellow, brown earth, pale green, and French blue. "A St Chamond of an unkown unit, Counter battery support, June 1918. In pale grey, sand yellow, brown earth, and forest green with black edging around the separate colours. "A St Camond unit spotted leaving the factory, early 1918. In, pale grey, sand yellow, French blue and pale green, also with matt black demarcation lines, but thinner than the tank above. "A St Camond captured by the Germans at Lataule on the 11th June 1918. In pale grey, sand yellow, French blue, brown earth and plae green in a very disruptive pattern and with a green alligator painted on the left hand front of the tank. With the previous release a French tanker complete with metal face curtain was included. In this one you get a much more relaxed tanker, complete with pipe and no protective head gear, just a beret and standard uniform. Still he is well moulded and would look great standing proudly next to his tres ‘orrible tank at wars end. Conclusion I’m a bit amazed that Takom have released a second version of this tank, but as stated above, there is enough of a difference to make it interesting. Certainly if you have both vehicles they would make a nice comparison to show the lessons learnt during the war, especially as they did persist in build these things. Construction doesn’t look like it will cause too many problems even for a beginner. The painting looks a little daunting, but you can now get paint masks for the camouflage to make life easier. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. I have several early Great War aircraft in the pile and have the bug to get a few completed. I've posted shots of my completed Tabloid and here's a start on the SH 1/48 Nieuport 10 that's just been released as a two seater. While the instructions show the top wing with the hole SH elected to remove this part from the kit. Looking at the Datafile and period photos I added it back in the wing provided in the kit. The attachment points for the bottom wings is almost non-existant so I added some wire to beef it up but am still going to the hardware store to get some epoxy glue to strengthen the joint. The observer sits in the front and the pilot on the rear seat. I have a GasPatch 1914 Hotchkiss to mount on the top wing. Apparently this configuration didn't last very long as the observer standing up through the wing interfered with the air flow to the rudder and the pilot's ability to see ahead. I've got some blue decal sheet ordered to do the taping around the wings and fuselage; initially I thought of masking with Tamiya tape and painting the tapes but was concerned the yellow might pull up in places.
  19. cduckworth

    Greetings from Omaha

    I retired from a big railroad here in Omaha 5 years ago and have been into the hobby on and off for 50+ years. Like most us older modelers I started with Airfix's and Revell's 1/72 line in the late 1950's and recall as a 12 year old trying to line up all those struts on the R.E. 8 (it never occurred to me to let the struts dry over night and 'then' attach the top wing - truly a lesson in patience). Brian Knight's painting of of WW1 aircraft (Voss' triplane and the Russian Morane N) were a real draw in getting my money. The Airfix single seaters were a mere 30 cents each and two seaters were 50 cents, enamel paints were 10 cents (gas was 29 cents a gallon) of course you made $2.00 cutting a lawn back then. The bigger scale was Aurora and many a Albatros, Fokker DVII and S.E.5 got my 79 cents. I remember finishing the Albatros C.III and thought the hobby just couldn't get any better. Rigging was done with mom's sewing thread. I built a few WWI Guillows kits but none of them survived their first flight. References were the Profile series (I still have all mine) and Arch Whitehouse was the guy to read to get you in the mood. I have a book case of 1/48 WW1 completed models mostly Eduard, Special Hobby, Dragon and a few resin kits. Looking forward to contributing to the forums and learning new techniques. Last comment; I was wondering where I could find room for some recently completed models. Last year our 2 year old granddaughter was here with her parents. After they left I noticed several of my models were cast about the floor in several pieces in the spare bedroom. I was able to save an Eduard DIII I'd painted as Jaconsen's aircraft with the flowers on the fuselage but that was it. Now when she and her little brother visit there's a strip of duct tape along the glass book case protecting the 1/48 models.
  20. If Monty Python had written a script on going after a Zeppelin flying over London I'm positive the crew would have been given a Sage 2 as their aircraft. Only one prototype built and it crashed. Two questions come to mind 1) why did Spin even do this kit and 2) what on earth was I thinking to even buy one? I'd ordered this from Hannants and was working on the Nieuport 10 when the box arrived from the UK. I looked at the low number of parts, the nicely cast thin wings and thought 'why not' let's give it a "spin" (bad pun). After a Google search for "Spin 1/48 Sage 2' all I saw were in-box reviews with no one actually building this kit (or at least posting photos of the completed model) so there was yet another a challenge - can it be built? The parts are actually well cast although the detail is a little soft in places around the sides near the engine. The clear sheet wraps around the cockpit and after several dry runs I think it's going to fit perfectly. I initially thought of using Canopy glue to attach it but am now going to use double faced tape so I can pull it back and reposition it as needed. I spend considerable time painting the cockpit but after attaching the top wing I might as well painted it in pink and purple dots as no one will see it. The Gnome engine, if actually seen, I'd replace, but the huge spinner hides it so am going with the kit's casting. Not much rigging on this little bird either so that's another plus. The casting on the top wing has a lip on the bottom to mount the window structure into. I removed the lip in the front of the wing and narrowed the 'V' casting in the back of the wing to get it to sit inside the cockpit area. Normally I use acc but used 5 minute two part epoxy to attach the wing as I feel the epoxy will hold better in the long run and I wanted some time to get the wing on straight which acc sets up too quickly. As you can see some of the detail parts aren't all that bad and the flash is thin and easy to remove. Here's the Gnome, several casting bubbles between the cylinders and tubes. Once the huge spinner is attached this will be hidden.
  21. maltadefender

    MD's 2016 builds

    I've finished a few long-standing hangar queens this year and built a few from scratch. One or two more to complete before the year is out, but surprisingly productive! First up is my Eduard 1/48 'Weekend Edition' Fokker Dr.I in the celebrated scheme of Leutnant Friedrich Kempf. It's an aeroplane I'd wanted to build for years and this kit is pretty stat-of-the-art so the mistakes were all mine to make! I think really it's just a couple of mis-glues on the rigging wires, which look a bit messy in close-up pics but it all looks nice enough on the shelf. Camo was done with a base coat of Tamiya Buff, then dry brushing Tamiya Olive and finally deepening the scrubbed-in sections with Tamiya Olive Drab. This was the kit that broke my modeller's block and got me back into the painting and gluing business. My other half is overjoyed (!?)
  22. Welcome to Chocksaway’s plastic shelf-filler model builds for 2016. (Yes, I'm still here.) A funny old year - I lost the modelling mojo for most of it and had to do some rapid builds to support the club's display at SMW, now we - West Middlesex Scale Model Club - have returned to the IPMS fold. Onwards and upwards then .... First up, a pair of Hurricanes using the new Airfix kit. The first is a fabric-winged Hurricane Mk.I, flown by Sqn Ldr John "Downwind" Gillan, 111 Sqn RAF, on 10 February 1938 when he managed an average speed of over 400 MPH for his Edinburgh to Northolt flight (Airfix 1/72nd). And this is another: Hawker Hurricane Mk.I, VY.G (serial unknown), 85 Squadron, RAF, Lille-Seclin, May 1940 (Airfix, 1/72). A further step back in time now to WW1. Here's a Sopwith Pup, B2192, as flown by Captains Foote and Balfour of the Gosport School of Special Flying, circa 1917. (Flashback, 1/48th). There's some dispute over the stripe colours - I went with the black and white option. Continuing the WW1 theme, this is the Fokker D.V flown by Theodor Osterkamp in 1918. (Eduard Weekend Edition, 1/48th) And now the well-worn joke about a pair of old Fokkers: a Fokker Dr.I (serial unknown) flown by Staffelfuhrer August Raben, Jasta 18, 1918 (Revell 1/48th). And this is Fokker Dr.I, 546/17 from Jasta 11 in early 1918 (Eduard Weekend Edition, 1/48th). And now back to something more modern, though the plastic probably isn't. This is the Lockheed-Martin X-35B protoype (Panda Models, 1/48th). So far, so good. At this point in the year my mojo disappeared. To get it back - some 6 months later - I re-visited one of my favourite genres. At this point, I should say this ... WARNING - The rest of this thread contains images that some model makers may find offensive. Withdraw now, to save elevating your blood pressure and having to wipe spittle from your keyboard and display. Please note that no resin or photo-etch was harmed in the making of the following models. Any similarities to the real aircraft are entirely coincidental. ... .... ..... ...... Now for some Eggstreme modelling .... Grumman F-14B Tomcat - "Thief of Baghdad" (BuNo not known), VF-24 "Fighting Renegades" based at NAS Fallon, 1991. McDonnell Douglas RF-4E Phantom, 35+76, AKG 52, West German Air Force, Tiger Meet scheme, 1984-85. Lockheed Martin F-22A Raptor (Block 40), AF 10-4195 (Pre-delivery scheme - mint and chocolate egg) Kawasaki T-4, 15-5666, 6 Hikotai, Tsuiki Airbase 50th Anniversary special markings, JASDF Grumman A-6A Intruder, 151816 / NL-406, VA-65 “Tigers”, June 1966 Lockheed P-38 Lightning F-5B, 4268213, GIR 2/33, Free French Air Force, Bastia, Corsica, 1944 Boeing 747-100, N479EV / 979, Evergreen International Aviation, 2009. Lockheed-Martin F-16 Block30D, 86-0305, 18th Aggressor Squadron, Eielson AFB, Alaska, November 2007. [Thanks Julien - see, I did finally get to use the decals!] Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero - BI-12, ATAIU-SEA, Tebrau AB, Malaya, 1946 F-47D Thunderbolt - 473, Cuban Army Air Force, 1956. Just when you thought it couldn't get any worse ... The "Flying EGGSTEAD" (Exhaust Gas Generated System: Thrust; Elevation; Attitude; Direction) made by Bristol Engines. Not to be confused with the Rolls-Royce TMR (Thrust Measurement Rig). And my only Harrier build of the year (I know, shock horror!) ... Hawker Siddeley Harrier GR.1, XV741, 1(F) Squadron, RAF from the Daily Mail Transatlantic Air Race in May 1969. Lift-off from St. Pancras, New York bound. McDonnell Douglas F-15C Eagle, AF 79-041, 173rd Fighter Wing, Air National Guard, Kingsley Field, Klamath Falls, Oregon. Two from the 100 Hours "Soccer" War ... North American F-51D Mustang - #407, Salvadoran Air Force (Fuerza Aérea Salvadoreña, (FAS)), July 1969. Chance Vought Corsair F-4U 5N, FAH-609 flown by Major Soto, Fuerza Aerea Hondureña, July 1969. Continuing the Central American theme ... North American Mustang F-51D, #312 - Fuerza Aerea Guatemalteca (FAG) Aerobatic Team. Yes, it was meant to be similar to the USAF Thunderbirds scheme. A6M2-N Rufe, R-106, 5th Kikutai, Kiska, Aleutian Islands, September 1942. Ducks from the fridge door, in case you're wondering. And finally ... Shenyang Aircraft Corporation J-15 "Flying Shark", #556, People's Liberation Army Navy (PLAN). And here's how they all came together with my previous eggplane builds at SMW 2016 - for those of you who forgot to stop and have a look ... Happy Modelling New Year. PS - if you have been affected by any of the images seen in this thread, please go here or here
  23. Just started this one, picked it up at Telford for £12! I hope to post up the progress although it may be slow, never actually rigged a 1/72 biplane so why not start at the deep end Started with the two engines, found them fiddly due to the fact tamiya cement wouldn't react in its usual manner, so I may switch to revell or humbrol. The kits seems relatively simple (famous last words) and I hope to keep the wings separate for painting as the dazzle options are quite complex, I'm also hoping to rig the main wings before attaching them. Everything does look a bit flashy and bulky, especially the canopy but it should all be fine once it comes together as a completed model. thanks Jason
  24. Viking

    WW1 Colour photos

    I came across this site featuring re-coloured black & white photos by a young Brazillian lady, Marina Amaral. She taught herself from a young age to use photoshop to apply colours, and carefuly researches the correct colours forn uniforms, medals and all details. The results do bring an astoninshing reality to the photos. She does all sorts of subjects, a few of which are WW1. my favourites are; Manfred Von Richthofen French Soldiers A sniper of the 6th Battalion, York and Lancaster Regiment Herman Goering at Nuremburg And WW2 303 Polish Sqn pilots Wounded soldier on Omaha beach 440 (Canadian) Sqn Typhoon pilot French boys & knocked out German Tank, Falaise pocket. Full set of historic photos she has worked on here There are some astonshingly old one from the American Civil war. Cheers John
  25. Following on from my 1/72 scale WW1 fighters, I decided to up the scale a little with this kit that I found for £12.50. Hope you like it, still learning but starting to get a little better.
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