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Found 111 results

  1. Kick-off Hello, I have spent the last 6 months working on a scratchbuilt Mig 15 and that project is now drawing to a close. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012524-mig-15-scratchbuild/& Consequently, I've been thinking a lot about my next project and after much deliberation, including considering a very, very wide range of possible subjects, I have decided to try something completely different to my usual aviation related fare. I am going to try to build His Majesty's Australian Submarine AE2. This is a project that I has been in the back of my mind for over a decade now and when a fellow modeller offered to lend the following set of plans to me, all thoughts of other projects evaporated. In my view Allied submarines in WW1 are under represented in the modelling world, so I'm going to try to do my little bit to correct this. AE2 was an early E-Class submarine operated by the Royal Australian Navy. On the evening of 25 April 1915 (while the Gallipoli landings were underway) she successfully penetrated the extremely formidable Turkish defences in the Dardenelles Straight and proceeded to 'run amok' in the sea of Marmara. During a short-lived but very intensive period of raiding she caused considerable disruption to Turkish attempts to reinforce and supply their defences on the Gallipoli peninsula. On the 30th of April AE2 was damaged by the Turkish torpedo boat Sultanhisar and, unable to dive to safety, her captain decided to scuttle her. All hands survived the scuttling and spent the rest of the war as P.O.W's in Turkey where they suffered terribly. Four of the vessel's compliment of 32 died during their incarceration. In 1998 the wreck of the AE2 was located and found to be in remarkably good condition, mostly due to it's partial immersion in anoxic mud. A thorough campaign to preserve the wreck in-situ continues to this day. The possibility of recovering the wreck has been discussed at length, and although probably technically feasible would be a very high risk and highly expensive project. So - in the meantime a model will have to do! I have not yet started any physical construction - so there's not a lot to see yet but, most unlike me, I have been conducting some additional research. And just as well too because it turns out that the drawings above are for a mid-war configuration E-class submarine which in some significant regards was different to the early war AE2. For example, the mid war submarine had a gun mounted ahead of the conning tower and had two forward torpedo tubes instead of AE2's single tube. There are other differences also. Suffice to say that this set of plans from the RAN's historical page on their website will help me nail down the correct configuration. The model itself will be: 1 / 100 scale Waterline - surface trim Scratchbuilt - although I might resort to some aftermarket details here and there. It will not be a cutaway (despite various people suggesting the idea) Predominantly made from wood, but expect to see some brass and plastic sheeting and a few other bits and pieces as well. I am hoping to have physical construction under-way this week and am aiming to have it finished by the end of 2017 but really don't have any idea how long this will take as I'm completely new to this maritime modelling lark. My plan for this job is basically to 'muddle through' so any encouragement and expert advice from the sidelines will be most appreciated! Best Regards, Reconcilor
  2. Hallo again In summary a nice model, a real challenge. A good kit from WNW, with some surprises included. My last WNW model. I choose spraying the camouflage, to prevent working with decals. You never know, if there are troubles with decals, it is too late. I learned my lessons already. Never trust any instruction! At the very end, surprise, surprise! How to install the gun? Because the holding D18 prevents rotating! It is so foolish. The cramped front position with the bombs vertically, no space left, and the gun looks tangential outboard! The kit part D18 is a flaw. The lower door, is actually closed by a spring. And as I read in Flight International after capture, no gun position was there either. The bomb installation opens questions, but no suitable answer in the instruction. So I left my outboard bombs at home! Well, dear modeler, never trust any instruction and be prepared for real astonishment. It is like an ambush! Stay ready to improve, and you may win! If you like crossword puzzle, so take WNW instruction, they are a puzzle. For rigging: Everything is written in my post, to create the same rigging as I did on this AEG! Happy modelling
  3. dov

    Rigging

    Rigging As rigging material, I will promote today only these materials, which succeeded after two decades. All other materials I do not mention. As material I use today the product from Modelkasten. http://store.modelkasten.com/shopbrand/rigging/ https://hlj.com/search/go?w=modelkasten rigging&view=grid The 0.6 and 1.5 elastic rigging I use. Rigging has two faces. One is static, the other ones are control cables. The static rigging we will watch first. Here check the landing gear wires. Look for the proper rigging points. If you got it, you may start. As an example in 1/32: The stretch filament must be fixed at the inaccessible eyelet first. With a knot. Fixed with CA just to secure. Than stretch it tight without using the flexibility of the filament. Than stretch it for 5mm and fix it with a knot. Not more! Because the summary of filaments would cause a tremendous force. Secure it with CA! CA is by all occasions just a tool to secure and never to fix! If you do not believe it, after several years your WW1 a/c should be rigged properly and unharmed. Always the inaccessible eyelet first! If you go to the wing. Check all rigging points and but your eyelets in before you assemble 1. The landing gear 2. Tail wing rigging, if existing 3. The cabane struts rigging 4. X wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port 5. Flying wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port. If double wires, so do both! 6. Landing wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port. If double flying wires, so take care that it runs properly! 7. Fuselage to wing rigging if present Happy modelling
  4. Hallo again This is my Albatros in 1/32: Happy modelling
  5. Hallo again Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  6. Hallo again This is my DH2 from Roden in 1/32. Here is the rigging a particular thing. I designed the strut support plates, on CAD. In cooperation with Cooperstate Models, they produced these parts. I did this design work voluntarily. It was the idea, to create for all WW1 model a/c these strut support plates. To achieve easier rigging. Moreover, to prevent drilling the wing. On the same way, I did the Be2c in 1/48 and the DH2 in 1/48. However, in the state of assembling the DH2 the troubles did not show up. The strut support plates I glued with CA on the wing. As I need them, for the static rigging. The gluing of struts I did with CA, because of the pin diameter & hole diameter from the Roden kit. In this case, the DH2 I got along because I did all gluing with CA. Well, I have to mention, that the assembly was very difficult. Today I improved the etched parts. I build the Be12 in 1/48, but here I failed. I glued the etched parts with CA and the struts with Tamiya glue. I did not get along. The gluing process is the problem. As a verdict: As long as you only use CA, it is ok. However, here I see the problem for bigger scales. With CA, there is no chance for drying alignment or a dry fit since you need bigger holes and the struts may not be in place for more than a second. I have no solution yet for gluing the struts with Tamiya glue; so I gave up. Maybe some days I have an idea, but not yet. Happy modelling
  7. Hallo again Here is my LVG C.VI in 1/32 Happy modelling
  8. Hallo again This Salmson I built some time ago. Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  9. Hallo again This is my Fokker E IV. In scale 1/32 from WNW. Happy modelling
  10. Hallo again Here is one Sopwith Dolphin in 48. Enjoy the photos. Happy modelling
  11. Hallo again This is my Roland D.VIb in 1/32: Happy modelling
  12. Hallo again This kit is scale 32. Not easy! Happy modelling
  13. Hallo again Now I finished my Stahltaube from WNW. Actually it was not an easy kit. My first small fault was a front bulkhead, which was misaligned. Here I had to do some restoration work at the front part of the fuselage. Well, after this my next challenge was the filling process. I usually worked with Surfacer. Here, it did not work at all. So I went on with super glue, as my husband told me to try. This worked perfect. So, after all this, the paint job was next. Here I was in the wonderful situation, to have close examined a replica of the Etrich Taube, some years ago. So I could adapt some ideas for coloring the wings. Well, after a long nerving battle, the Taube I finished yesterday. Happy modelling
  14. Hallo again With self designed strut support plates. A new idea. Happy modelling
  15. Hallo again This is my Pfalz D.XII in 1/32 Happy modelling
  16. Hallo again: Here please is my DFW C.V in 1/32: Happy modelling
  17. Hallo again, This kit is a joy! Really. If anybody wants to know how to do the rigging, just ask. I will explain it! There is nothing to say, as the kit is perfect. Happy modeling
  18. Hallo again Here is my Fe2b. From WNW in 1/32. I did all after I did the Dh2 in 32 and 48. Therefore, I was a little more experienced. Well, WW1 a/c are a challenge and I like it sometimes more as a jet. Depends on my mood. Fun to build. Nice to grasp the rigging. Happy modelling
  19. Hallo again Now here I do a Roland CII early from WNW in 1/32 scale. This a/c is at the time of design at 1915 a highly sophisticated a/c. Why: The aerodynamic with the goal to minimize drag was the guideline. At Göttingen, the University in the field of aerodynamic, with his head Ludwig Prandtl (4 February 1875 – 15 August 1953) was in charge of design. The concept was excellent, since the margin of 30km/h was reached. The same basic design was used for the Spirit of St. Louis. Spirit of St. Louis The overall concept for flight characteristic was poor. No downward visibility. The rudder response was poor, because of low incident flow at the rudder area. The build of this a/c is straight forward. · One point to mention: The shading or visual effect of ribs due to the fact that the fabric was translucent. You see the poor result at the rear stabilizer, as I did it. · Now I change the method: The surface is colored as it should be with any base color. Afterward I will take the base color and rib color in 1:10 or 1:5 and spray the exact pattern of ribs. It should work out much better and it is 100% comprehensible for other models. So, that is it. After it is finished, the late version will follow! Happy modelling
  20. Hallo This is my Roland CII late. In contrast to the Roland CII early, it is much more colorful. My Roland CII early, you will find here. Beside this, I did two major changes. · The rigging without knots · The airscrew, now laminated. Well, I hope you enjoy it. Happy modelling
  21. Hello all, Wingnuts beautifully crafted Sopwith Triplane has been fumbled together by me over the course of the last 9 months. For anyone who knows me, that is RAPID! I can't fault the kit. It is pure New Zealand Gold. The only thing I can fault is my need to try to make everything look perfect. I'm sure I can work on that imperfection and as a result build more kits. I have one image for now, but will upload more soon. Cheers my dears Von Buckle KFC 1st Class
  22. Fokker Dr.1 Triplane 1:32 Roden On hearing the news that Wingnut Wings are going to release 1:32 'Early' and 'Late' versions of the Fokker Triplane in 2020, I thought I'd better get on with my Roden kit or it might never get built. I bought it because Wingnut Wings have a general policy of not producing kits already available from other manufacturers, and I reckoned this was one they might never do. Wrong! It is pretty good but lacks the refinement of a Wingnut Wings kit, and also benefits from a few detail additions and corrections. Having already built one from the Encore boxing of Werner Voss's early F.1 version with Fokker's 'streaky green' camouflage: (it is the Roden kit in an Encore box) I want to do a more colorful one. I intend to do the red and white one operated by Jasta 18 and featured as a bonus on Pheon Decals 1:32 Jasta 18 Fokker Fighters decal sheet. I've already used Pheons sheet to do it in 1:48 on the Eduard kit, so this is what I'll be intending to do here; First up I added the edging for the plywood panels that are missing inside the fuselage halves, using some Evergreen strip. The white discs are where I filled in some ejector pin marks. The forward tank should have a filler either side, so a matching hole needs drilling in the coaming, and scratchbuilt spout adding. While I was working on the coaming section, I test fitted it on the taped together fuselage halves. There is quite a bit of fit interference, cured by trimming excess plastic from the inside at the rear of the opening for the middle wing. Moving on to the cowling, it can be improved by scribing in the semi circular panel line on the front face. I put a block off wood under the prop shaft hole, and centred the compass cutter on it, and scribed. Looking better. I also made a series of rivet marks around the outer edge. Also, there is a raised strap that goes around the rear of the cowling. Roden have moulded it, but it is very faint. I ran a strip of plasticard around, and once it has set I will sand it back a little as it is now too prominent. I find it is easier to do it this way than to try and glue a very thin plastic strip on. For some reason Roden moulded the tailplane as if the middle was part of the fuselage, with 2 separate 'planes' attached to it. It isn't. It's a one piece unit. I sanded the ridges down and also filled the deep channels in it. On the left corrected, on the right as it comes in the kit. The 'Axle wing' needs attention as well. The split panel line and clamps need to come off. They were on the Fokker D.VII, but not the Dr.1 Triplane. I will sand and fill to fix this. Finally, some of the interior elements ready for priming and painting. I show them here as some of them are assembled from more than one piece, such as the rear wall with seat brackets attached. Gluing them together now saves mucking up the paintwork if you try to do it later. If you have a Roden Dr.1 in the stash, why not build it now? Thanks for looking. John
  23. HMAS AE2 - World War One Submarine. About a decade ago I started idly dreaming about scratchbuilding a model of the famous Australian World War One submarine AE2. One year ago, almost to the day, a generous fellow modeller lent me a set of his plans for an E-class submarine. 11 months ago work started. Three days ago I finished the model. After what seems like a very long time and a great deal of fun, here's the result. Please enjoy! Those of you that have been following the WIP thread will know that the last week of this project was essentially a blinding sprint to get this thing completed in time for the Western Australian Scale Model Exposition (WASMEx). So how did I go in the competition? Well have a look at the photo below and have a guess which one won! Hmmmmm.... No real surprise! Yep - My little submarine came second in the maritime scratchbuilt class. This was what I expected all along because there's one guy here in Perth who is an absolute master of maritime scratchbuilding (lets call him GW shall we). I figured all along that he would win - that's his HMS Vanguard in the Perspex case! Scratchbuilt - from balsa of all things! Well - there's nothing wrong with being beaten by a true champion! Congratulations GW, a deserved win! In any case, I can't complain because it was GW that lent me the plans in the first place! So my submarine came second, which is fine by me, especially since there was a field of nine entries in the maritime scratchbuilt category. So it looks like maritime modelling in Western Australia is in good health. If you are interested in how this model was made please have a look at WIP log which can be found here... And if you will allow me to indulge in a small 'plug' - why not check out my next project - a scratchbuilt, 1/32 Avro 504. That WIP can be found here... All comments and critiques most welcome. Warmest Regards - Bandsaw Steve
  24. Trying to finish some half-started projects. This vignette was supposed to be for the Great War GB last year but I got distracted. The gunner is one of the figures in the old Tamiya LRDG truck kit with a head from the Dragon Monte Casino figure set. Arms re-positioned so he's firing up. The Dragon heads are very lifelike. The Lewis gun and ammo box are Resicast. The spotter is an ICM figure from their WW1 ANZAC set, also with a Dragon head and re-positioned arms. I have a few sets of the ICM WW1 figure sets and they are all really good. The pit/base is a hogged out piece of pine with acrylic medium and grit gooped on.
  25. First effort at posting some drawings. I'll build it bit at a time if it works. Any feedback more than welcome. RAL First one's a bit contrasty for a pencil drawing?
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