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Found 17 results

  1. Here for your enjoyment is another van that's going under the knife. I've applied some 10mm Tamiya tape to use a a cutting guide on the easy parts which equates to near enough a 9.5" chop The fun will be working out the screen and door cuts, although I may do without the quarter lights in the doors. Handles will disappear along with hinges etc for a clean look. I'm thinking of another Guinness scheme but using metallics for the black and cream. It will be lowered too with a suitable set of alloys added. What could possibly go wrong...?
  2. I was excited to build a brand new 1/8 scale kit from a new company after building so many Pocher kits over the years. Here are my quick building impressions of the new LeGrand 1/8 Collection VW Beetle kit (a complete kit version of the DeAgostini/ModelSpace partworks kit) a decorative metal sign is included body parts are prepainted with all necessary scripts and trim, wheels are metal, tires are softer than Pocher plastic parts are prepainted, bagged and boxed in groups (no sprues to cut!) the screws are nicely prepackaged in three compartmentalized boxes (you will have many spares remaining for other projects) Introduction Part quality and fit is good, all metal and most plastic parts have a nice pre-painted finish. There are no decals to worry about, all necessary markings are pre-printed. A small Phillips screwdriver is supplied with the kit, but more specialized tools can make the job easier. I have been using Wiha Precision Phillips screwdrivers sizes #00 x 40 mm, #0 x 50 mm, and #1 x 60 for a range of screw sizes and torque required. Pay attention to the numbering of parts in the assembly steps, which usually is the order in which they should be assembled. Many parts have D-shaped mounting holes or assymetrical mounting points that help ensure they are oriented correctly. Parts with Left and Right pairs are often stamped L and R to help with placement. It may also be helpful to consult the step by step assembly instructions for the subscription version https://www.model-space.com/landing-pages/beetle-uk/download.html. They are designed more for a novice modeler but include many more diagrams and photos, although the assembly order is different compared to our kit. For my build here I am ignoring those instructions and evaluating only the included paper manual. Group 1 Steps 1-4: The first assembly steps took longer than expected, as identifying some parts was harder without numbered sprues. Examine the master illustration of all parts in a "group" and their numbers at the start of each section, as the diagrams for the chassis and rear suspension assembly steps are a vertical view that is not always clear. Further ahead in the assembly manual the illustrations have a 3-D perspective that makes things easier. The wheels are metal! I was able to mount the tires after just warming them in my hands, but warming them with hot water or a hair dryer as the manual suggests will make it easier. Step 6: Parts 1.49L & 1.51R: be sure to orient them correctly according to the diagram; round hole faces front, towards steering rack, and oval hole faces rear. Parts 1.52 are small metal pins with a burred end; insert the smooth end first, then press with pliers or a small vise until the burred end which secures them sits flush in the hole. Step 7: Screw lower spring cups parts 1.56 & 1.61 to front suspension, then screw part 1.66 loosely to the chassis leaving as much wiggle room as possible. Then assemble the shock absorbers & springs which must be held together at the ends, compressed and fitted into place, before tightening part 1.66 to the chassis. Group 2 Steps 10-12: Assembly of the seats and interior floor is clear and straightforward. Step 13: Press the rear mounts for the seats in the correct holes and hold firmly before flipping the floorpan over to snap the forward tabs in their slots; it make take a few tries, and you may have to squeeze the forward seat mounts to get the tabs to line up with the slots while viewing from below. Step 14: Part 2.52 has a larger and smaller hole that will orient it correctly on the mounting pegs. The diagram does not show that grey flocked part 2.54 must be pressed into the rear seat back 2.53. Group 3 (engine!) Most parts are nicely pre-painted, although some black plastic parts will look better if painted. Remember all part numbers ending in "M" are metal and are located in the foam block that contains the body panels. Step 16: Be sure part 3.7M is oriented correctly and matches the contour of the engine block. Step 17: After starting the screws I had to press the engine block halves 3.8M and 3.11M together slightly with a vice to eliminate a small gap. However, the gap between the transmision and engine block is intentional, as a plastic part will slide between them in step 19. The mounting tabs and slots for parts 3.9, 3.10, 3.12, 3.13 are assymetrical and will orient them correctly so the flats on the cylinders will face each other. Step 20: parts 3.20L and 3.21R and stamped R and L, but are shown on the wrong sides in the instructions and will not fit if assembled as shown. Step 21: I had to add part 3.22 after mounting parts 3.20 & 3.21 to the engine because of limited clearance. Be sure the flanges on parts 3.21 & 3.22 are pressed completely into the matching recess in the black part between them and the engine. Fit the pushrod guides parts 3.24 into parts 3.23R & 3.25L before inserting the group into the engine block. Squish the ends slightly so they will stay aligned and in place if necessary. Part 3.29 is begging us to replace it with real wire. Step 24: Spark plug wires; refer back to page 16 to match correct lengths to parts #'s. Group 4 Body assembly was quick and clear in general. Step 35: Slide the thin metal ring onto the ridge at the bottom of part 4.3 before fastening to the interior door panel, and be sure the seatbelt buckle faces away from the door. Step 43: I had to unscrew and bend the arm of the fuel filler door several times to get a correct fit in the opening when closed. Group 5 (dash and moving body panels) Step 57: Part 5.43 was a loose fit so I squished the mounting pins slightly to get it to stay securely. I rotated the mounting arms of the rear bumper slightly to get a correct fit in the body. Step 58: Inserting metal pins into the door hinges right against the painted body made me nervous. I also had to bend both lower hinges slightly to get clearance for the hinge pins. Nylon jawed pliers were a life saver here to squeeze the hinge pins into the hinges. After mounting the doors they may not fit right, but the door opening will spread when the body is mounted to the chassis. Step 59: The dash was a tight fit because of interference at the sides from body assembly screws. Next time I may drill holes to allow more clearance. Step 64: The placement and ID of parts 5.68 & 5.69 is difficult, better to wait until after the body is mounted to the chassis. Step 67: When assembling the body to the chassis you may need to do some flexing and wiggling to get everything to line up at the correct mounting points. Start at the front with the car upside down and be sure the tops of the front suspension towers fit into the recesses in the wheel well. Then spread the body at the sills if needed as you work your way to the back. After mounting the body to the chassis I gently but firmly spread the upper body opening front to back by bracing against the windshield header and the rear of the car to create more space for the doors to close properly. You will see there is some natural flex in the bottom of the chassis when the doors are open. Step 69: I wrapped a thin strip of tape around the neck of the windshield washer reservoir 5.72 to achieve a secure fit in the mounting collar. Step 70: Windshield trim 5.78; notice the mounting pins angle downwards, and all four must be pressed in and down at the same time. The ends of the rear shelf 6.3 must be snapped firmly under tabs inside the body to get a correct fit. Windshield washer nozzle 6.33 is a very small part but shown deceptively large in the illustration. Group 6 (final assembly/convertible top) Steps 72-74: Be sure to refer to the photos on page 60 in addition to the parts diagram on page 57 to help clarify the assembly of the folding top mechanism. Step 76: It is a little fussy to get the reinforced holes in both layers of the cloth top to align with the "sandwich" of rear window plus interior and exterior trim pieces. Make sure each layer (outer cloth, rear window, inner cloth, inner trim piece) is fully seated onto the pins of exterior trim piece 6.26 before tightening each screw. Be careful your screwdriver does not slip and scratch the window! After the rear window is attached undo the velcro and reattach so the metal top mechanism is between the layers of the cloth top. Step 78: Be sure each piece 6.31 clicks fully into each hole in piece 6.29. Refer to the photo on the previous page 62 of the manual for clarification. Step 79: When attaching the rear of the top to the body, insert the black pegs on parts 6.17 from step 74 first. You will have to angle the top of these parts inward to insert the pegs. Step 80: Face the front of the model and brace it against your body while pulling the front edge of the convertible top to the windshield header, then press the pegs firmly into the holes to secure the top. The cloth top is bulkier than the real version, something that is more difficult to scale down than hard parts, so it is hard to fold without looking awkwardly high. My solution is to unmate the velcro holding the inner and outer layers together, fold and stack the top layer carefully, then fold or roll the inner layer into the middle before covering with the fabric boot. There was some interference when I first retracted the top so I had to pinpoint the problem joints and flex the metal bows gently to get them to stack symetrically. The elasticized fabric boot looked awkward until I researched photos of the car and saw that the real one often looked worse. Summary: I enjoyed this build and the quality of the parts. Total build time was quicker than expected because the car itself is simple (like comparing the Pocher Classic Fiat to the Alfa). Minor criticisms: Getting the doors to fit well was a little fussy, partly because the nicely scaled metal hinges are a little too flexible. I'll accept the trade off because the accurate hinges look so good. I wish there was a better latching system than just a friction fit against the body opening. The tires look a little wide to me but also look great on the car. I wish the bumpers were metal. I will suggest improvements to the manual for the next LEGRAND 1/8 kit, additional steps and clearer illustrations. Color photos as shown with the subscription instructions linked above would be best. Final Thoughts: The finished model looks great, and will look even better when I get a chance to polish and wax it as I do for every build. The convertible top looks good up or down, an improvement over the prototype photos. The metal mechanism works well and makes so much more sense than the plastic pieces Pocher provided in the Classic car kits.
  3. And I'm calling this one done. I'm off work poorly sick so managed to get this over the line at last. I hope you like it, I had fun. But before the pictures, I give huge thanks to @Marco F. over in Germany for his donation of the bodyshell. It saved so much time! As is often the way with these builds, the steering wheel touches the drivers seat. Ahem. So I'll call your attention to the door mirror instead. That front end again. Note the delete wipers option was ticked. SoCal Baby! The windows could do with a clean though. Yes, there is a small glue blemish on the drivers window. I'll call it delamination from a stone chip. Yet I managed not to do that on the headlights! I did think about having the word DUB! across the front just under the screen? BTW, SoCal is a Custom 'look' dating back probably forty odd years. Hang on, SoCal? but what is that in the loadbed? Oh, a snowmobile. Obviously. I've had this for about twenty years, (it came with a pick up truck) at last it finds a use. Here they are posing together. Now the wagon isn't perfect, I'll be the first to admit, but it's come out pretty much according to plan and I'm happy with that. And you do need a big silencer on the back as they sleep late in SoCal. No bumpers and big tail lights. I meant to put a California number plate on it but forgot and took the pictures first, doh! And here's a last look before stardom on a shelf in the mancave. Thanks for looking and as always, sticks and stones or donations are welcome. Thanks for looking. Pete
  4. Hi all, Today I actually managed to start my first model... the Tamiya 1966 VW Beetle. I was originally going to build this to be the same as the beetle I used to own however I believe it would be too difficult for a first model, I would have to change too much on it as mine was a ‘74 and therefore had different lights, bumpers etc. So I’ve decided to do it from the box (I may fit the opening rear windows I’ve seen on HighlightModelstudio.com). I’ve spent ages searching through the Hycote colours online to find one I like, I originally was looking at VW colours but got drawn to some Ford colours I like instead... I ordered Ford Green Jade Metallic originally, not realising it was actually out of stock so I’m still waiting for that to arrive, and in the meantime found Ford Sierra Beige and decided that suits the car much more and ordered and received that very quickly. I haven’t done loads to start, I have laid down 2 coats of primer (Optima grey plastic primer) and 1 coat of Hycote Ford Sierra Beige Quite happy with the colour and how it’s looking so far... for a first attempt. comments and criticism please people.
  5. Further to my Majorette VW camper ambulance project I decided to finally rejuvenate a little 1/68th scale Husky’ VW Beetle of 1969 vintage. The car was bought for 5p at a VW show about 35 years ago and was already in a fairly well battered state and it didn’t have its roof mounted luggage anymore. I decided that it had lain forlorn in the loft long enough and was in need of some TLC. After stripping it down to its component parts I decided to fill the holes in the roof rather than try to source a replacement luggage pack and to do this I simply used ‘Squadron’ Green Putty, which when dry was secured with a thin coat of super glue. I used Tamiya acrylics throughout and the glass was gently cut back with automotive T-Cut and then polished. The body colour is Copper, and the trim Chrome Silver. The interior was also painted which in hind sight was a waste of time as it can hardly be seen. Also In hind sight I suppose, the runnng boards could have been painted black and a dark wash applied over the grills etc, but it really isn’t a show car, merely a bit of fun. Anyway, like the camper van this has been a nice relaxing diversion from plastic modelling, but I won’t be doing any more of these as I really must get back to my two half finished kit projects.
  6. Volkswagen Scirocco 1:25 kit from AMT Some of you may know but I’m a VW fan, having owned many different Vee-Dubs over the years, and still have a Mk1 Golf GTi in the garage for summer fun, and in my time 2 Sciroccos have passed through my hands. The Scirocco was a replacement for the Karmann Ghia coupe and was launched 6 months before the Golf so any teething problems could be sorted before the Golf hit the roads. Although it is biased on the Golfs platform (chassis) it was modified extensively to give a sportier ride, with its front mounted engines, with front wheel drive and sleek coupe body penned by Giorgetto Giugiaro. When I saw the re-issue of the old AMT Scirocco I was very excited, I’ve a stash of VW kits ready to build scale replicas of some of my favourite cars from my past so I could now add one of my ‘Roccos’ to the fleet! The AMT kit comes in the normal AMT style box with a lift off lid, and a box full of plastic. Most is moulded in a light grey plastic, with a clear single piece glazing part, and a chrome sprue, with all sprues being bagged individually. The body comes as a single part with the lower front and rear valances to be added and a separate bonnet. The body is a nice casting and it looks in proportion and the lines look good to my eye. The kit is an early Mk1, with US specification side markers, if you are building a European model these will need sanding off the shell and won’t be too hard to do. The car has the single wiper moulded on the shell and this helps date the car to a 1977 model to convert to an earlier version this can be sanded off and twin wipers added. Construction starts with the engine, slipping my VW anorak on, it looks like the 1.6l petrol engine with the 4 speed manual gearbox. The shape of the engine looks good and the parts are well detailed, a quick look online will bring up lots of pictures to help you add detail should you wish to show off the engine on your model. This kit can be built as either a stock ‘road’ car or as a race car with wide wheels, stripped interior roll cage and body kit. The instructions now split the road and race builds and your spares box will benefit from some left over parts. The car only has a left hand drive dashboard so for a British car some cutting and modification will be required here. The parts for the interior are well detailed with the door cards and rear interior being well done, and the interior tub has ‘rough’ casting to represent the carpets, and the seats are textured to mimic the stitching and pattern on the fabric. For the race car a multi-part roll cage needs making up and a deep race bucket seat is needed omitting the rear and passenger seat. Construction then moves onto the chassis, this is a single part and the underside has all the complex pressings and mouldings found on the 1:1, there is some flash present on the review sample that will need some work around the edges. Again there is optional parts between the race and road here, the race car has a straight through exhaust, exiting at the side, with a more conventional rear exit with silencer exhaust for the road. Construction now starts on the body, under the bonnet the firewall and internal wings are built up, I would glue this into the body before painting, along with the front and rear valances I would also glue the bonnet in place if you want the model closed. This is where the body kit is added if wanted, with 4 wide wheel arch extensions and a big front valance with air dam and spoiler. Finishing off your build are the wheels, some nice VW standard alloys or a big wide set of BBS race wheels topped off with some nice rubber tyres, there are 8 in the box 4 narrow ‘road’ tyres and 4 wide tyres, they all have nice side wall and tread detail. A single decal sheet has the stripes, race numbers sponsor logos and VW badges for the race car along with some ‘Scirocco’ dealer plates all nicely printed and sharply done. Conclusion. It’s great to see this kit back, it will fill a hole in my collection. With the crisp lines of the Scirocco captured and the option of road or race versions should make it more popular. Bad points, other than no right hand drive dashboard nothing! Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  7. So my wife saw the Airfix Quick Build VW Camper Van and it was acquired..... An hour and a half of building attempts later, and after many colourful metaphors later it just did not fit. The problem seems to be the two black benches are just too wide. Anyone one else tried this? PM
  8. Their QuickBuild VW Bug was really nice so I'm expecting good things from this one: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AXJ6017
  9. Hi folk,s I asked for this kit for Christmas and here it is,I 've seen a couple built here and one on the go at the moment will be a good reference for the build,I love the vehicles here on the forum but build mainly aircraft even the Beetle I built last year was an army version so I thought it time to boost number of vehicle builder's here by one.I love the fact that you can paint a subject to your own scheme and no one get's on your your case now decided on a 70's green,Here's the content's.
  10. This may or may not be how the beaches of So Cal could have looked if the combined forces of the U.S and Great Britain had not prevailed in WWII. Nice model to build with the addition of a scratch built roof rack, machine gun barrel exhaust pipes and after market nose art decals (slightly doctored). Finally got hold of some 1/24 scale sun loungers! Thanks for looking, regards Siffo.
  11. Here's my take on the T3 camper. It's what may or may not the campsites of Europe would have looked like in 1979 if GB and its' allies had not prevailed in WWII! Was once a proud owner of a T2 bay window Westfalia that took myself and the missus around Scotland. Anyone know of a T2 kit out there? Thanks to Ronald ''Dillon'' Watkinson my work colleague and also my friend for the sun visor and signage. Thanks for looking, regards Siffo.
  12. Hello again, this is my follow up to the "Jagerbomber" I posted up a few weeks ago. The mask set came with two versions so I decided to use the second on another iconic German vehicle. Great kit to build and no issues with the fit. Thanks for looking, Siffo.
  13. Hi guys, this is my first post. I got the idea from a Montex mask kit I saw on Ebay and utilised the masks and decals on the Revell kit and doctored their own decals for a tongue in cheek look. Great site and some stunning creations. Hope to post more of my collection soon, regards Siffo.
  14. Another kit finished this year... i like the final result..
  15. We've just received our stock of Belkits highly detailed 1/24 Scale VW Polo R WRC Red Bull Plastic Model Kit! This fantastic kit comes with photo-etched and night race parts included! Available while stocks last, so get your order in early! For full details, see our newsletter here.
  16. Hi Everyone, Here is my 2nd completed project of 2015. This is Revell's 1:24 scale Volkswagen Beetle New Style. This is an almost exact replica of my own car. The colour is very similar and as the model was made in Germany, the model is left hand drive rather than the UKs right hand drive. The kit is painted in Tamiya X-4 blue and black paint. Anyway here are the photos. Thanks as always for looking. Cheers, Rick
  17. Here is my VeeDub beach buggy converted from the 1:24 Hasegawa Kubelwagen. It has been shortened as per a 1:1 buggy and has had some custom seats from a Golf added, all pink as my Daughter chose the Tamiya Pink/ Gold for the body and the anodised pink for the chassis. Not sure on the seat colours but, Hey, I'm not the boss! Anyway piccys! SONY DSC by richellis1978, on Flickr SONY DSC by richellis1978, on Flickr SONY DSC by richellis1978, on Flickr SONY DSC by richellis1978, on Flickr SONY DSC by richellis1978, on Flickr SONY DSC by richellis1978, on Flickr It has a real alloy exhaust from Detail Master, and there are some etch feet foot pedal covers in there too! I need a replacement exhaust and some seat belts to add when I see some ones that will suit.
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