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Found 7 results

  1. My dad acquired a liking for 110s at the moment. So after starting the Iraqi one he will soon start a Yugoslav one. This aircraft changed ownership after it´s crew made a navigation mistake and landed in Yugoslavia instead of Bulgaria, a week before the German invasion in Yugoslavia. The crew was detained and the 110 received VVKJ markings and camo. Gonna use the good old Fujimi kit DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr using LF Models decals for the markings DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr and pimping it with a True Details cockpit DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  2. Hi all, In a fit of madness I decided to build four 1/48 Phantoms at the same time. Here's the first: Hasegawa's 1/48 F-4E from a 2001 boxing in the kit decals. Paint is Mr Color and applied freehand. The seats and pylons are True Details resin. The engine exhausts are from an Academy F-4. A full description is written up here: https://jonbryon.com/hasegawa-1-48-mcdonnell-douglas-f-4e-phantom-ii/ Comments welcome and thanks for looking. Jon
  3. Hi Guys, it´s time for a new project. I will build the famous P-51D in 1/48 and will use the old Hasegawa kit. Also the Aires wheel bay and the True details cockpit. I will not use the Kit decals..... but have not yet decided which decals I will use.... Maybe a blue nose? The True Details sidewalls fit perfect and are a 100% better than the Kit parts First steps of painting the interior. As always I use Revell Aqua Color. The Interior green is a mix of light green, sand and brown. The very nice detailed True Detail Seat, gun sight and instrument panel It was a bad decision to add the Aires wheel well into this kit. A lot of work will be needed to fix this.... Cheers Pete
  4. Hello, here's my 1/72 Hasegawa Junkers Ju-88 G6 "Nachtjäger" of 6./NJG2, Fritzlar 1945. I used Eduard photo-etch, True Details resin wheels, Schatton antennas and markings from Authentic Decals. Painted with acrylics from the Gunze/Mr.Hobby range. The Hasegawa kit has some fit issues, which is strange for a modern HQ tooling. The fuselage halves need some filling and blending, the nose cap is over-sized, the wing tips and the belly insert with the guns don't fit very well either. The antennas are metal pieces from Schatton (http://www.modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de/). They are much finer than the kit's plastic parts. Since the antlers are a major focus point on this model I think they are well worth the investment! The colour scheme is mostly guesswork, as I've found only one conclusive period photograph online; this shows only a part of the fuselage section broken up at Fritzlar airport, Germany, May 1945. The markings come from Authentic decals, they aren't the best I've ever worked with. They break easily, have a yellow-ish carrier film and are slightly misprinted with 'shadow lines'. Luckily, this doesn't show after a couple of gloss and matt cotes. The camoflage was painted using Uhu Tac sausages: Exhaust fumes painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby "Smoke" with drops of Black and Dark Brown added: Delicate work on the undercarriage, adding brake lines and scissor links: "Schräge Musik" ("Jazz Music") guns on the fuselage spine: All photographs by Wolfgang Rabel, IGM Cars & Bikes. Thanks for your interest. Greetings from Vienna!
  5. Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat BuNo 5093, Lt. Cdr. John S. Thatch, Officer Commanding VF-3, USS Yorktown, Midway, 1942-06-04 Kit: 1/72 Hasegawa F4F-4 Wildcat Afermarket parts: True Details #72455 resin cockpit and wheel well detail set Squadron #9105 vacu canopy Decals: Aeromaster #72-093C F4F-4 Wildcat Aces Pt.1 The following improvements made to this kit were: Inner surfaces of wing halves and rear fuselage halves (rudder) were thinned down to obtain sharp trailing edges. Some panel lines were filled and some added according to reference photos. In addition, the overlapping panels (for example, on the rudder) were represented using thin metal foil. The cockpit was replaced by the True Details resin parts. The canopy was replaced by the Squadron vacu formed item. Since the Squadron canopy is designed to fit the Academy kit, some adjustment work was required for mounting it on the model. The canopy replacement forced widening the fairing above the control panel in the cockpit, which have originally had rather wide margins for placing the thicker kit canopy. This fairing was also thinned down for correct scale representation. The most serious flaw with this kit is just an empty space where the landing gear bay should be. This problem is partially solved by inserting the True Details tub, however some extra work was still required. For instance, the recesses to accommodate the main wheel are just repeated in full size on the resin tub and, since it is designed to fit the kit fuselage having rather thick plastic, these recesses turned out to be much deeper than they should be. Some filling and re-scribing was required to fix this problem. Some additional detail was also added to the rear bulkhead and to the engine compartment interior partially visible in front of the wheel bay. In addition, the fuselage walls around the front of the wheel bay were partially thinned down for the correct skin representation. The air intakes in the forward engine cowling ring were deepened and thinned down to scale. Some detail was added to the rather basic kit parts for the reasonable representation of the Wildcat’s complicated landing gear. The aileron, elevator and rudder hinges molded as solid pieces were improved by cutting out their inner areas. The missing central elements were also added to the fairings covering the hinges of the landing flaps. Too shallow kit exhaust stacks were replaced by scratch built parts and the fuselage panel around them was also somewhat refined by making extra steps, holes etc. A new rounded propeller hub and the visible part of the arrester hook were made from scratch. A larger pneumatic tail wheel provided with the kit was replaced by the solid smaller one which is correct for this particular a/c. The replacement wheel was the part left unused after building the F2A-2 kit as a Dutch Brewster Model 339C. Some further minor improvements made on the model can clearly be seen on the photos.
  6. The lovely Accurate Minatures kit, and i am building it as the cover version 'Dirty Dora', a very weather beaten and worn Mitchell I have a couple of extras for it - Quickboost engines And Truedetails wheels Work starts with the Cockpit ( just for a change ), Sprayed dark green , with the back of the bulkhead interior green, and the bomb aimer's access tunnel aluminium Then painted and weathered down the instrument panel. Painted the instruments from the back, then the front black, leaving the instruments, then some of MIG's Clear in the dials. Used the provided decals for the belts, mainly as once it's closed up it will be almost impossible to see. Picked out some of the switches and throttle levers with artist's gouache paints. Next the bomb bay and navigator's position - assembled and glued in position, using the fuselage side to help align everything. Painted with Interior Green and then picked out the details, and an oil wash Finally for today, sprayed the inside of the bomb bay Alclad aluminium Peter
  7. Parachutes True Details 1:32 True Details are renowned for their aftermarket sets for aircraft. Recently they have been releasing diorama pieces and these two sets come from that range. Each set comes packaged in a small blown poly box and protected by a foam insert. Each parachute is really well moulded, with all the straps, handles and clips well represented. Set one shows the parachute lying flat with the chute bag upright whilst set two has the parachute with the chute bag facing downwards ready to be put on. Apart from effective painting and shading the hardest part of using these sets will be removing them from the excess resin sheet, as there are areas that will need precision cutting with a nice new blade. Conclusion These are great little additions to the modeller's armoury. I’d imagine they’d be suitable for all aircraft in the USAAF inventory during WWII and will look good either lain on the wing or tailplane or with set two you could leave it on the seat in the cockpit. With careful painting these will look really good in any diorama. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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