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  1. Working on my J21R:s and seeing all those rockets I had a thought: didn't Tunnan replace the J21R too? Oh yes it did! The story goes like this: In 1950 J21R arrives to F10-wing which quickly finds out that this aircraft is a bit of a letdown, but starts flying with it anyway. During those 8 months of operation it was decided to transfer the lot of them to F7 wing, which was in the process of converting from a light bomber wing, to a attack wing according to Flygvapnets latest ideas. What F7 really wanted was a good attacker with long range and high speed, but that aircraft (the Lansen) was still some years off. In the meantime they had to make do with what they were given. In 1951 they were formally using A21R for all attack missions, and started to devise new tactics for use in the Jet era. Three years later, they received an important upgrade in the form of A29B Tunnan, which was basically the fighter bomber version of J29B. Higher speeds, more firepower, and more range was all good, but it still was not a match for the requirement "from bases in Västergötland, be able to reach any point in the 2000km Swedish coastline in less than an hour in all weather even during night." F7 used the A29B between 1954 and 1956 when the Lansen finally arrived and brought about a big change in capabilities. But a Lansen will be a model for another day, for this GB I'll just focus on the Tarangus 1/72 Tunnan instead. An end opening box hides very few parts, which are a lot better photographed here: What @Paul A H failed to capture in his photos is this That's quite a hideous flash/mold wear or just bad tooling from whoever Tarangus contracted (my guess is Sword, since it looks like their plastic), so that should be fun to polish away. Fortunately NMF Tunnan are not shiny but very vey flat and oxidized aluminium panels so I might just get away with it. I had a quick tape-up yesterday comparing it to it's predecessor I've just placed an order for new decals from Moose Republic, some etch, masks and new wheels so once that arrives I can make a proper start! But in the meantime, I need to start modelling those rocket pylons and rockets, but this will be done in CAD and then 3D printed... Picture of ground attack rocket armed Tunnan can be found here: http://www.avrosys.nu/aircraft/Attack/175A29-2.htm
  2. Well I am back....after nearly 2 years away from the bench, given the current situation I have a bit more time on my hands.... Where did I go? Well its a bit of a story, a combination of things...my last GB was the Hawker Siddeley in June 2018 - I didn't complete my 2 x 1/32 hawks as I went off to Russia 18 world Cup with work. On my return and after some leave, my boss and Head of the team told me he was moving on to News UK, leaving me to step up as acting Head. My younger son, then playing grass roots football in goal was also asked to go to Ipswich Town for some training, ending up at the centre of excellence, playing in goal, a year up at U14. So a new busy job plus 3 nights at footie training a week, plus games at the weekend left little time and I drifted away from the hobby.... I applied for the position and with luck I got the job...football continued at a pace, as does work, time away, family life etc ...then COVID 19 has struck us all....leaving me working from home rather than a 2hr each way commute to London, all football off until at least early July, strange work tempo...what to do? All the 'Man Jobs' quickly completed, including the garage where my work bench area was...... So here I am, I will need to remember and brush up on a lot of skills, check my kit, paints, filler etc.... Back in 2017 a good friend, Finn Isaksson, who was the Head of High Risk Projects at Swedish Radio, invited me for a coffee whilst in a meeting somewhere, asked what I did out of work...it became clear we both enjoyed modelling...I remarked I'd never done any Swedish aircraft...he had himself served in the Swedish Airforce. A few weeks later the Lansen arrived in the post...I promised him I'd build it, but the rest is history as per above. Now the time has come! Standard pre build pics.... There should be in the post, will need to order the paint I think... Some would say its a lovely plane, others...... I thought I would some the J 32E ECM version to do something a bit different...go easy on me, 1st model for 2 years! I plan to build a little 1/72 Spit I have as well as a bit of a Muler to practice my skills on! I normally do in flight mode, but no pilots, so in a bit of a quandary....will think it through... my bench tidied up a bit....no doubt will have a shopping list... Wish me luck!
  3. Viggen Ground Crew (F48360) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby There must still be a fair few of the ESCI Viggens in 1:48 knocking about, but the newly tooled Tarangus and Special Hobby kits are the intended subject to have this small figure set clambering around under. Arriving in a small blister box with the instructions hidden behind the header card, you get two figures made from five parts of grey resin. The standing figure just needs an arm added to his left side, while the crouching figure needs an arm and head adding to make the most of the detail. The standing figure is wearing ear-defenders and is waving the pilot on, while the crouching figure wears a patrol cap and has a bag slung over his shoulder, with one hand reaching out as if he was under a wing checking something. Conclusion Casting a sculpting are both good, and the arms have keyed lugs to make for a secure attachment. Your Viggen diorama will be improved by adding these guys to give a human scale to the model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. After the 1/48th kits - Tarangus: link1 & link2; Special Hobby link3 (I'm still waiting the Sk.37 two seats variant Link3), Tarangus is continuing its partnership with Special Hobby (link) with the production of 1/72nd Saab 37 Viggen kits. Source: http://www.tarangus.se/2017/10/30/new-viggen-in-172-scale/ V.P.
  5. I have been waiting a while for this build to finally come up as it’s a chance to build something I have been wanting to for a long time. I had previously built 2 Viggens some 30+ years ago (Matchbox & Esci) both in splinter camouflage with varying success, so hopefully 3rdtime lucky. I’ll be building Tarangus’s lovely SH/SF-37 Viggen ….. …..with a swag of Maestro extras thrown in…... …… plus some bits from Phase hanger….. ….finally some teeny bits from Master Model. …and finally to top it all off some masks from Maestro! I have no idea of the painting order for the masks, this should be interesting! The scheme/model will be the SH-37 Maritime Recon/Strike version fitted with Rb04E Anti-Ship missiles. The build should be simple and straight forward, the painting…….hmm!! Luckily Mr. Paint have a range of acrylic lacquers just for this aircraft so that'll be a huge help with the paint job. I have 4 other possibilities for this GB which may make an appearance depending on how this build goes (F3D-2 Skyknight, Hs-129B3, Su-25K, KaJaPo).
  6. Hi! Edit: Changed from a AJSF37 WIp to a JA37D/Di one 20181007 See below. It is time for yet another Viggen for me, this time one of the recce variants. (The last one can be seen here.) I have yet to decide which variant it will be, an AJSH or AJSF 37 - I have aftermarket goodies for both - and I will build both but which one first? I am deciding between an AJSH 37 from F10 Ängelholm during the late 90s and carrying a pair of RB15Fs and a pair of RB74s (AIM-9L) or a SWAFRAP (Swedish Air Force Rapid Reaction Force) AJSF 37. SWAFRAP was set up during 2001 and hade a number of photo-recce Viggens at its disposal. All where painted in the same grey colours as the JAS 39 Gripens and it is not the same as the JA 37 Viggens had. The AJSH 37s kept using the famous splinter camo looking like this (though that is acually an AJS 37 but they are quite hard to distinguish, usually it is by what they are carrying on the hard points) AJSF 37 Box art: I have an unhealthy ammount of aftermarket stuff: Everything but the kitchen sink, eh? If it is the photo recce variant this time around I will use flash- and photo pods under the belly plus a jamming pod and a flare- and chaff dispenser plus a pair of RB24Js (AIM-9J?). If I decide on the sea suirvaillance/maritime strike variant, the AJSH 37, I will use a pair of RB15Fs and a pair of RB74s (AIM-9L). I have both photo etch and the Neomega cockpit made for the ESCI/Airfix kit and planned to use only some of the cockpit resin parts but after compairing it with the kit plastics... I decided to make the resin fit..! Bagging the plastics.. There is still alot of sanding to be done but I dry fitted it earlier today and it seems to work okay! (The IP cover or whatever it is called fell down slightly as I snapped the pic but it fits almost nicely!) Probably gonna paint the side walls and the inside walls before gluing them in and then make the tub fit in there too. Seems slightly tricky to slide down the bang chair but it should not be impossible! Alright! I might not be that fast, have loads of studying and tests this Winter and Spring but it seems like another nice SAAB build. Some inspiration, while they are AJS 37s, the Viggen still looks good in DCS!
  7. Hi Here are some pictures of my recently completed model of Tarangus 1/48 J 32B Lansen nicknamed Lansen Sport. I've used every aftermarket item available from Maestro Models for the Lansen and quite a bit of scratchbuilding, mainly in the wheel wells, landing gears and cockpit plus a full length engine intake. The Tarangus kit requires a bit of TLC but can be made into a real good looking model IMHO. a full wip can be found here (in swedish) http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3276 More pictures can be found here: http://s836.photobucket.com/user/flarpen/slideshow/Sport%20Lansen/Finished best regards Johan Elvin
  8. Recieved this a few days ago: Having dreamt of a modern 1/72 Viggen since I started building again ten years ago, I started building immediately. The breakdown of parts is almost identical to the 1/48 Viggen by Tarangus/Special Hobby. And details are similar, it feels like a shrinked 1/48 model in many ways - which means great detailing! Panel lines are crisp and fine, the RAT generator is included and almost all errors from the first 1/48 edition are corrected. Fit is good so far except for some difficulties with the JA insert part just behind the RAT: One of few remaining errors is the out-of-the-blue "intake" on the exhaust cone, which however is easily removed.
  9. This is the brand new 1/72 Viggen from Tarangus/Special Hobby. A great kit, shapes are spot on, fit is great and details are excellent. I decided to build a JA 37DI, the ultimate Viggen, as it looked like just before retirement in the early 2000s. WIP thread here. Some grey Viggens sometimes used exhaust cones from scrapped green camouflaged ones: Most decals are from the kit, but some are from an old Flying Colors Viggen sheet. Great details OOB, landing gears are just as detaliled as if they were in 1/48. I can really recommend this kit, it is a really enjoyable build! I am already looking forward to the Special Hobby releases of the other versions.
  10. Tarangus will release their long-expected recce version of their 1/48 Viggen in May or June this year. It will include a new nose for the SF 37 and parts for the AJ 37-similar SH 37. Positive news of course, however I think it also means that Special Hobby's SK 37 two-seater will be postponed. Source: Rebell Hobby (run by the same company as Tarangus).
  11. Hi guys. For my first roll out here I choose one of my Swedish, finished in February this year. The Tunnan in 1:72 scale comes from Tarangus and i used some etched parts from Maestro Models too. On the fuselage and wings I added some rivet lines. The aluminium finish was painted with different Alclad colors, the rest with Tamiya. Regards Daniel
  12. After the 1/48th Tarangus' Saab JA37 (ref.TA4803 - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234970637-saab-ja37-viggen-148/?hl=viggen) and the Special Hobby's AJ37 Viggen (ref. SH48148 - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234981928-saab-aj-37-viggen-148/?hl=viggen), here's the two seats variant, the Saab Sk37 Viggen, once again by Special Hobby - ref.48150 Source: https://www.facebook.com/specialhobby/posts/920557591372439 V.P.
  13. Hi! I am not sure but I do not think I have ever posted a WIP-thread here. I am mostly reading reviews, resources, commenting others´ WIPs- and finished aircraft. But thought, "-What the Hell, why not?" Might as well make your stuff look even better. This is my second Tarangus JA 37. First one was finished of in the splinter camouflage but I was not too happy with it, too many mistakes so I gave it away to a non-modeller that would still be happy with it. But since I am a massive Viggen (and Draken!) fan I have quite a few more in the stash, with waay too much AM for various reasons... This build is for a friend that is also an aviation enthusiast but is not modelling himself. During our schooltime he managed to get one week at F10 Ängelholm during our "deployment" to workplaces to see what work is all about (drinking coffee and chatting?) during secondary school. He was at First Division at F10 Ängelholm which then flew AJS/AJSH/AJSF Viggens while Second Division flew J35J Drakens. And those were the aircraft we usually saw as kids when growing up some 100 miles north along the coast, or so. I gave him a grey 1/48 Hasegawa J35J a couple of years back and now he has been bugging me to do a Viggen too, sto keep the Draken company. I am not the best modeller nor painter in the world, far from it, and the in too many ways failed first Viggen made me feel I had to get better in quite a few areas before going for another one full of very expensive AM so I took this opportunity to practice. It is not as bad as it sounds but I figured I could build a more *budget version* (it is still very pricey) and try some new (for me) techniques. The choice fell on a JA 37 however, a variant not flown at F10. Instead I chose an example from F13 Bråvalla. One of four Viggens that visited RAF Coningsby in 1989 and is on Two Bobs decal sheet. It was painted in the Jakt-Viggens air superiority greys and id not look too weathered at the time. It was later modified to D and Di-standard and is now preserved at Optand, in the middle of Sweden (close to another defunct Swedish Airforce Wing - F4 Frösön which also flew Jakt-Viggens/JA 37s) Here it is at RAF Coningsby in 1989: Part of the reason I chose that one aircraft (37412) is the "Martin Blå" logo that was painted on the port side of three of the visiting Viggens and on both sides on the forth (37398). The logo adds a little bit extra interest I think. It is for the Second Division at F13 Bråvalla by the way and was retained for some time after the visit. My buddy did not mind a grey fighter-Viggen over splinter recce-Viggen looking like the ones from his school-visit so all is well. (More pics from the visit HERE!) This is how she looked while based at F17 Kallinge later in her career: And these days: Now... I always do better when I feel for an aircraft and this one has that little extra. Growing up seeing them in the sky but half of my family hails from the area around F13 and I did see both recce- and fighter Viggens while visiting there a few times. One memory I have is one Viggen coming in to land over our heads as kids, when we were picking strawberries, just outside the runway at Bråvalla. Here that base can be seen in two quite nice vids from the early 90s just before the base was shut down. Maybe I make less stupid mistakes and use more patience for the build with all those feelings? We´ll see, but it usually works. Here is the decal-sheet from Two Bobs. Sadly a bit tricky to find these days but I am bugging Moose Republic Decals to make more Viggen-sheets and hopefully a few of the Viggens visitng RAF Coningsby might be included. 132nd Fighter Squadron/Martin Blå. Now, the Tarangus Viggen does *need* some AM and I have an unhealthy ammount stored for my own, later ones. But the kit is expensive as is the AM and as the build is also a "practice build" and my friend can´t be asked to pay for a shedload of AM it won´t have that much (lol). I am also a slow builder, at times, so to get it done soon-ish and keep it relatively cheap this is what I have chosen: Canard-corrections from CMK to get the correct angle of the flaps and that extra vortex-generator. I used Maestro´s correction last time and they seem almost identical except the vortex generators on them are separate and you get a resin-tool to get the correct droop on the flap. The wheels in the box are frankly terrible and in need of replacement while the pit needs to be a bit "pimped". Master pitot for that extra good look but no RAT?? Yeah, you have to draw the line at some point. I am not charging my friend anything, he will have to buy me a few beer and I did get some good merchandise in the form of coffe cups, water bottles from his job (the Anti Aircraft regiment of our defence so pretty cool! ) but the kits i a lot of money, as is the time spent so... Yeah, my next build will have afew more extra AM piece thrown in. This one does not need to be too complicated or time consuming. And yeah, no corrected Ja 37 fin. The one in the kit is not entirely correct but good enough for this project. Sorry for along starting-post by the way..
  14. JA-37 Viggen Canard Correction Set (4362) AJ/SF/SH-37 Viggen Canard Correction Set (4361) (for Special Hobby/Tarangus) 1:48 Special Hobby Tarangus brought us a newly tooled JA-37 Viggen a few years ago, consigning the old Airfix kit to history, and Special Hobby - the people behind the tooling and moulding of the Tarangus kit - brought us the AJ-37, AJS-37, and the SH/SF-37 was handled by Tarangus again. As a Viggen lover, I'm still waiting for the two-seater, so if anyone in a position to help move that along is listening, get a move on! Every model has its flaws, and it seems that the angle of the leading edge of the flaps on the canards was a little off, so Special Hobby have created these two sets to correct that issue. They also add a smidge of additional detail to the flap itself, including the see-through parts, and each set has the correct number of vortex generators on the rear edge of the fixed portion of the canard. The canards have the root fairing along their full length, which leaves a thin section where the flap sits, so take care when removing the parts from the casting block. One of my samples had warped in the box, but this is easily fixed by taping the part to a flat surface and pouring hot water from the kettle over it, then dousing it under the cold tap. Handily, the correct angle of droop for the flaps is given on the instructions as 30o, but do take care not to cut off the lugs from the fairing sides, as they are the locating point on the fuselage. A couple of small air bubbles mar an otherwise good set slightly, but this is easy to clean up, and casting thin parts is prone to this kind of issue. As usual with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. AJ/SF/SH-37 (4361) JA-37 (4362) Review sample courtesy of
  15. No. this is not the title of a previously unknown Christmas album by the Who, but a new venture for me. I was given a kit for Christmas by my dear wife, and have decided that, since it is a relatively simple build with not that many parts, I should be able to build it fairly fast. Unlike all my other builds, I do not intend to super-detail anything, or add any after-market parts to it, other than the set of masks I already have, and probably some Airscale instruments to pep up the very visible cockpit. Oh, and a fair amount nose weight, I should imagine! So I present to you the statutory sprue shot of the Tarangus 1/48 Scottish Aviation Bulldog T1. It will be built as XX541/L of RNEFTS, RAF Topcliffe, the aircraft in which I did my first Bullfrog solo on 2 May 1985.
  16. Hi guys, i'd like to show you my new Lansen from Tarangus. Not exactly an user-friendly kit and finally after 8 months i call it done. Phew ( WIP thread in czech language here: http://modelari.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=994 ) Thanks for looking. Br from Prague. Andrew
  17. Finished this earlier this year - but forgot a few details. But now it is finished. I tried to capture the heavliy weathered F 5-56 in which I flew during my military service 1989-90. Although it is small, this one is not easy to build. Getting the wings right is a true challenge and the nose wheel and exhaust are almost impossible to glue in the right place, However, since there are pretty few parts the model is a fairly quick build after all. It needs extremely much noseweight, I filled every hole in the nose section, and still it was extremely close to become a tail-sitter! Shapes looks spot on to me. The only thing I have noticed is the part in front of the stabilizers which is a few millimetres too long and the air outlet which the instructions tells you to place in wrong position. Painted with Gunze and Tamiya Acrylics (based on Gunze H78 Olive Drab and Tamiya Sea Blue). A few details: Decals are - as always with Tarangus - excellent. So apart from a few challenges, this kit is highly recommended!
  18. Source: https://www.facebook.com/tarangus UPDATE on October 5th, 2015: 1/48 - Scottish Aviation Bulldog (SwAF Sk 61) 1/72 - Saab J32B/E Lansen http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991462-172-saab-j32be-lansen-by-tarangus-box-art-release-1q-2016/ V.P.
  19. Bulldog T.1 & Sk.61 Bulldog (48005 & 48006) 1:48 Tarangus The Bulldog was originally designed by Beagle Aircraft, who sadly went bust before they could honour any orders for this two seat prop-driven trainer, the first being from the Swedes. A new concern, Scottish Aviation took over and brought the Bulldog to market where it was used most notably by the RAF and Swedish Air Force, but by other countries too. There were several models made, many of which were designed for the export market, with the RAF using the 121 as the T.1, while the 101 was for Sweden, where it was designated Sk 61 in the Air Force, or Fpl 61 in army use. The Swedish aircraft differed mainly due to the additional two seats in the rear of the crew compartment, behind the pilots who sat two abreast, with a wide expanse of Perspex giving excellent forward visibility over a short nose. The last RAF airframes left service just after the new millennium, and many have gone into private hands from all variants across the world. The now familiar Grob Tutor replaced the Bulldog as the entry-level trainer with the RAF and continues to serve today. The Kits A new tooling from Tarangus, this is a welcome addition to builders in 1:48 scale who have been poorly served in the past, with only a resin kit released a few years ago. There are two boxings initially, and as you would expect, the RAF version is one and the Swedish version the other. The RAF decal sheet does include some decals for other operators however, and there is bound to be an aftermarket sheet available soon to fill in any gaps. Tarangus' models are predominantly short to medium run, so do not expect the latest innovations in injection moulding, and be aware that some modelling skills will be required to make the best of your purchase. They make no secret of that, and as they are consistently designing kits that might otherwise not see the light of day due to the massive investment required, that's likely to continue to be the case. Their moulds are made by Special Hobby if I recall, so you know that the quality is going to be good, and they work hard to make the kits accurate, as they have a genuine love for their chosen subject matter. Inside the small end-opening box is a large ziplok bag containing one sprue, a fuselage half that has been cut off the sprue to fit the box, and a spruelet containing a number of small parts, all in the same mid grey styrene, which has a semi-matt surface finish that should take primer well. There is very little flash evident, which shouldn't slow you down if you are going to clean up the mould seams anyway. The decals are separately bagged with the instructions that includes a single sheet of painting and decaling instructions in colour on one side, showing the aircraft from one side, above and below. The clear parts are also in their own ziplok bag, and I was disappointed that the canopy has been moulded as a single part. I would wager that either a resin or vacformed canopy will be available in due course for those a little wary of cutting their styrene one in half. The build begins with the instruments and coaming, and you'll need to either paint the instruments or avail yourself of the excellent AirScale instruments and check your references for placement hints. The "door cards" for the cockpit sides look exactly like that, and these fit into the fuselage sides along with the rear windows, so you'll need to paint the interior before you close up the halves. The cockpit is based on the floor panel, which has a raised centre console, two blocks to place the seats on, and a raked rear bulkhead. The centre console has a little sink mark in the centre, but it's not obscuring details, so is easy to fix. At the front are the twin control columns and rudder pedals, the former fitting on a little raised block, while the latter fits onto the top of the centre console. The cockpit sits in the fuselage floor, and a simple bulkhead rests against a raised line forward of this with a pair of attachment points for the nose gear leg. A simple representation of the engine front and the flat round piece and shaft for the prop fit to the grille at the front, with the coaming sitting on top of the forward edge of the cockpit aperture once the fuselage is in place. As previously mentioned the canopy is supplied in one part, and don't be tempted to make the canopy side rails flush to the fuselage though, as these are supposed to hang over the edge of the fuselage as per the original. Also, don't forget the limited run nature of the kit means that there aren't any locating pins, which can be a source of problems on occasion anyway, especially if they're out of alignment. With the fuselage complete, the strake on the rear lower fuselage is added, with a small bumper moulded in that protects the aircraft from over-enthusiastic take-offs. The fin is moulded-in, but the rudder is separate, while the elevators are moulded as single parts, and these butt-fit to flats on the fuselage, so you may consider adding some plastic or brass pegs and holes to ensure a strong join and good fit. A couple of blade antennae & such are added to the upper fuselage, and then the wings are built up from upper and lower halves, the upper section containing both sides of the trailing edge to keep it slim. A twin lamp fitting slides into the wing front, and a clear cover is added along with a clear lens for the wingtip lights, which is nice to see on a short-run kit. The wings have small tabs to secure them in place, but keep them at the correct dihedral while the glue sets. Flipping the model over, a pair of exhausts attached to a shaped block are inserted into the rear of the chin intake, and you might want to drill out the tips if you feel they'll be seen. The front of the intake is then covered with a baffle, which the instructions incorrectly show you applying across the front of the engine. You don't wanna do that… The two blades of the prop fit into the back of the boss, where you'll have to ensure they're correctly aligned, as the parts aren't keyed. The spinner cap hides the assembly's working, and is then glued onto the shaft projecting from the front of the fuselage. The nose gear is a single strut with a separate scissor link and tyre, which is slipped into the fuselage to latch onto the two locating cups on the bulkhead inside. The main gear is similarly fixed, and the attachment of the legs is achieved via a butt-fit with the positions marked in fine lines on the underside of the fuselage. The wheels fit onto pegs and then you need to add a bunch of aileron and flap actuator housings along the full length of the wing, plus the remainder of the exhausts, antennae and lights. That's it! You're done. Now get the paint out. Markings One boxing gives you the option of British and other nations, the other Swedish markings, including that gorgeous (and complex) splinter scheme. The Swedish kit has three options from their forces. You get four options in the RAF boxing, with only two of them being RAF. From the box you can build one of the following: Bulldog T.1 XX621 Yorkshire University Air Squadron XX537 RAF East Lowlands Universities Air Squadron AS0023 Air Wing of the Armed Forced of Malta 701 Kenyan Air Force Swedish Sk61 Sk61A 61011 - F5 Ljungbyhed in original two-tone camo Sk61A 61025 – F5 Ljungbyhed in post 1989 RAL livery Fpl 61C 61061 Displayed at F11 museum in Nyköping The profiles are 2.5 view, with one for each option from the side, from which we can assume they are symmetrical, and a 50/50 top/bottom view for each option. The decals are printed on vibrant blue glossy paper that is reminiscent of Eduard's recent output, and are of reasonable quality. There is a little bleeding of the black here and there, but it is only really visible on close inspection, however on our sample the red had been printed slightly out of register, which means the RAF roundels look odd. However, if your sheet is similarly affected they're easy enough to get hold of from spares or aftermarket. The watchword is check your sheet when you get them, and make the necessary enquiries promptly if there's a problem and you don't have spares. The Swedish decals are nicely done and suffer no registration problems that I could detect, although a couple of miniscule white flecks do show up in the blue of the roundels. Conclusion It's great to finally have an injection moulded kit of the Bulldog in this scale, and even if you're not used to short to medium run productions, I don't think it should put you off unless you are an absolute novice. Take care with the fuselage and tail alignment due to the lack of alignment pins, and it should build pretty easily, as long as you take your time and test fit everything, which to be honest is what we should all be doing all the time. I'd have liked a 2-part canopy, but then I prefer to pose mine open and I know a lot of folks that don't. Overall, well recommended. RAF & Foreign Operator Bulldoig T.1 (48005) Swedish Sk61 Bulldog (48006) Review sample courtesy of
  20. SAAB J32B/E Lansen 1:72 Tarangus Following WWII Sweden was looking for a new Strike aircraft to replace their ageing prop driven aircraft. An ambitious requirement was issued, and Saab came up with the Lansen, a large streamlined dual-seat, single engine aircraft with swept wings and tail, powered by a licence built Rolls Royce Avon. Much is made over its visual similarity to the Lockheed Shooting Star, and even to an abandoned Messerschmitt project, the P1110. Although this is just a result of the prevailing aerodynamic research of the time, it doesn't stop the speculation! The Lansen project resulted in a well-liked and reliable aircraft that served on the front line from 1955 to the late 70s, and in second line service into the 90s. It was capable of carrying the new (at the time) anti-shipping missiles, as well as the A model having an armament of four Bofors 20mm cannon, mounted behind retractable doors in the nose. It could also carry unguided rocket pods and license produced Sidewinders for A2A combat. The B version would upgrade to a hefty 4 x 30mm ADEN cannon. Later on in it's service life four B airframes were modified to ECM training aircraft with the J23E designation. Two airframes were kept airworthy by the Swedish Radiation Safety Authority until 2010, sampling radiation in the upper atmosphere. The Kit The kit is The first ever kit of the fighter version of the Saab Lansen, aka Lansen Sport, in 1/72 scale. The kit is typical of a short run kit, the plastic has fine engraved panel lines (a bit too fine at times), there are larger then normal sprue gates and injector pin marks. The review copy has a slightly short shot burner can. The clear sprue is a little thick but not overly so and is clear. Construction start with the cockpit. The tub is not one part but the front and rear are built separately and joined. The front wheel well is fist built up under the front cockpit as the cockpit floor forms the roof of the gear bay. The two sides are added along with the front and rear bulkheads. This can then be flipped over and the control column and instrument panel are added. The rear cockpit has the instrument panel and rear bulkhead added. The two are then joined together. The ejection seats can then be made up and added. Each seat has the main seat part, rails, and head shields to add. Next for each fuselage side the engine intakes are added, then the main gear wells can be added, along with the 4 part exhaust. Once these are all in main fuselage can be closed up. The coaming is then added in front of the cockpits and the glass partition between the cockpits is also added. A prominent blade antenna is added on the nose. Moving toward the rear another blade antenna and four cooling scoops are added. Next to go on are the tail planes and vertical fin. It is good the fin is one part and separate from the fuselage halves as they have been able to control the thickness better. Next up are the main wings. These are of a conventional two part upper and single part lower wings. A prominent blade antenna is added to each wing along with a wing fence. The fence is quite thick in plastic and would benefit from a PE replacement, as would the antenna. The pitot probe is added to the right wing. The wing can then be joined to the fuselage and the ventral fuel tank added. The undercarriage is then added. A single nose wheel assembly complete with wheel is added along with the two front gear doors. The twin landing lights are added to the front of the gear well. The main gear is two part wheels which attach to their own leg. The outer main gear doors then attach to the leg. The inners to the fuselage. There is a retraction strut to add to the main gear leg. The last things to add are the pylons and weapons if you want to use them. Two generic sidewinders are included but are not too detailded. Last item on is the single part canopy. Decals Decals are provided for 4 aircraft. There is no mention of the decal maker on the sheet. 32532, J 32B, F12 From Kalmar wing 1968. Marked with orange squares. Possible use of smaller insignia on the wings. 32536, J 32B, F1 From Hasslo/Vasteras Wing. 32615, J 32B, F15 From Froson/Osterung Wing 1970s. Use of orange square markings which were later removed left unbleached squares on the paint. 32507, J32E, F16-01, From Uppsala Wing, jamming aircraft 1996. Conclusion While it is good to see this type of limited use aircraft available to the 1.72 modeller this is not a mainstream kit and care will be needed in its construction. Tarangus are to be thanked for releasing this in 1/72. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  21. After the 1/48th model ( http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234911361-saab-a32a-lansen/ ) Tarangus is to release a 1/72nd Saab J32B/E Lansen kit - ref.TA7202 Source: http://www.tarangus.se/2015/11/05/tarangus-to-release-saab-j32be-lansen-in-172-and-scottish-aviation-bulldog-sk-61-in-148/ Box art V.P.
  22. Surprise. As the Viggen is still "in the works" Tarangus has planned the release of the Saab 91B/C/D Safir Trainer in late June. Markings are included for a Swedish, Finnish and Ethiopean Safir - ref. TA4804. Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/saab-91bcd-safir-expected-july-2014-ta4804-tarangus-models-ta4804-netherlands-military/product/?shopid=LM536f1348899c8644a177ff7c58&action=prodinfo&parent_id=212&art=121632 V.P.
  23. Saab JA37 Viggen 1:48 Tarangus The Viggen is a rugged fighter/interceptor that was designed to fulfil a need during the deep Cold War to defend Swedish airspace in the event of an incursion by the Soviet Bloc, and to continue the fight from hidden bases near roadways, which the aircraft could use as makeshift landing strips. It was to replace both the Lansen and Draken, and did so extremely well, endearing itself to aviation enthusiasts as it did so due to its unusual double-delta/canard configuration. It was fitted with a single license built P&W JT8D with an afterburner to give it the performance needed to propel this large aircraft fast enough to accomplish short take-offs. Short landings were made possible by the inclusion of a large set of thrust reversing petals that dropped into the exhaust and expelled the gases forward out of slots in the side of the fuselage. The initial AJ37 variant was declared operational in 1972, and required the addition of a trainer variant, dubbed the SK37, which had an additional cockpit placed high above the original, displacing some fuel tankage in the process. The final JA37 variant was brought into service in 1980 with new computer systems, improved radar and engine, as well as other systems and the strength of the airframe, which already utilised titanium to reduce weight. The last of the Viggens (Thunderbolt) were retired in 2005, replaced by the impressive JAS39 Gripen (Griffon). A number of Viggens are on display in museums – notably Newark in the UK, but the Swedes have retained one in flying condition that can sometimes be seen at British airshows along with a Draken, Lansen and even the Tunnan. If only every country was conscientious in preservation of its aviation history. The Kit Anyone that has even a passing interest in the Viggen has probably been aware of the gestation of the Tarangus kit, and it is now almost a year since it was originally scheduled to be launched. This stemmed from the fact that Max and Fredrik wanted to do the Viggen full justice, so the initial short/medium run kit format was dropped in favour of a more durable mainstream moulding that would also provide much better detail out of the box. It worked. There is GOOD detail, and plenty of it. Opening the yellow and blue box, you're greeted by a lot of nicely tooled plastic, with a total of eight sprues in mid grey styrene, one of glass-like clear parts, and a set of decals on a long narrow sheet. The instruction booklet is around A5 in size, is printed in black & greyshades, with good clear diagrams and plenty of assistance notes. The final item in the box is a full-colour glossy painting and marking guide, with a double A4 spread showing stencils, and another the national markings. Initial impressions are super, and had this Viggen loving reviewer smiling as I perused the sprues on the Tarangus booth at Telford. Once home, I could study them some more, and all of the shortcomings of the Airfix/Esci kit seem to have been addressed in spades, with crisp engraved panel lines, single-piece intake fronts with slim lips, backed by full-length trunking. The rear of the engine is also depicted, replete with the big thrust-reverser petals that can be posed individually. The gear bays are detailed, and the fuselage doesn't suffer from the paunch of the old Airfix kit. Clever breakdown of the fuselage has resulted in some nice detail, as well as a sensible and straight-forward build process that should suit most modellers unless they add any of the aftermarket that is bound to come flooding out from Maestro and others. Construction begins with the front fuselage, and the cockpit in particular. The ejection seat, which is a Raketstol 37, is made from two parts for the outer shell, and has the head-cushion moulded in, so you will need to deal with the seam there before you install the single piece cushion in the lower half and the head-box top above it. The rocket-tube and lateral supports are inserted in the hollow back of the chair, but if you plan on adding some seatbelts, you will need to make your own if you're building it now, or wait until some are forthcoming from the likes of Eduard. The cockpit tub is one piece with integrated side consoled that have raised detail moulded in, to which you add the rudder pedals, control column and the main instrument panel. The panel has what looks like an MFD in the middle, but it was in fact an old-fashioned CRT screen, which was quite advanced at the time in an aircraft. There are no decals for the panel, so check your references and paint it accordingly. Another two small levers are added to the right side console to finish off the cockpit nicely. The front fuselage is split horizontally, and has moulded-in recesses into which the sidewall detail parts are placed before the cockpit tub is added from below. Before the front fuselage can be closed up however, the intake trunking must be built up. The two trunks are moulded together and split top and bottom to ensure correct line-up, being held apart with bracing struts and outer flanges that hold them neatly within the fuselage. A bulkhead with twin oval openings covers the rear end, and a small circular(ish) length of the outer skin of the fuselage fits behind that. Why? One Viggen variant is slightly longer than the rest, and it would seem that Tarangus have tooled the kit with this in mind. The huge fan of Volvo RM8 engine is glued behind this section, although it would probably need an endoscopic camera to see it clearly! The well detailed nose gear bay is added, a front bulkhead to close off the nose behind the radome is installed over the front of that, and the intakes can be dropped in after drilling out the holes for the belly pylons fitted later. The upper fuselage with the spine moulded in is then sat on top and glued in place, at which point you will need to ensure a good fit between the two halves as well as the fuselage ring that you added earlier to the intake assembly. The rear fuselage splits vertically to allow a realistic rendition of the area-rule curving fuselage that surrounds the Volvo motor. In order to join the halves, you need to build the engine's rear, which is made from just two parts, but has superb detail incorporated. The main part is a wide tube with the rear engine face and afterburner ring moulded-in with stunning sharpness, plus ribbing along the length of the exhaust, and fluted edges that are commendably thin. The reverser section is added next, which is again a single part that mates with the lip in three points, leaving three large gaps for the reversed engine gases to exit. The thrust-reversing petals are each separate, and can be posed either fully open for normal running, closed for "reversing", or with the bottom two open and the top one drooping down due to the bleed-off of hydraulic pressure following engine shut-down. The latter will be the most normally seen on a parked aircraft, but you at least have options now! The tail cone fits over the petals, and the completed (and painted) assembly is trapped between the aft fuselage halves, and then mated with the forward half. Most of the upper join will be hidden by the spine of the front fuselage, which is always a boon to the modeller. Work then moves to the large cranked "double-delta" wings, starting with adding the well detailed shallow main gear bays to the single piece lower wing. A few holes are drilled for additional flap-actuator fairings (IIRC, this additional actuator wasn't present on early variants), and fuselage then the two upper wing halves are added, butting up against each other. Plenty of test fitting should ensure the best joint, but don't forget that wing-fairings are often not the best fitting, so check your references, and if it looks right, leave the lid on the putty. The flying surfaces are moulded integrally, so other than adding the aforementioned flap fairings and a pair of small wingtip lights on each wing, that's them done. At the front end of the fuselage, your Viggen will be looking a little blunt until you add the two part nose cone, which is split vertically, and the engine intakes, which have been cleverly designed to take up only one part each. As mentioned earlier, these are slim and delicate, but if you want to achieve better scale accuracy, you might consider slimming the lips down a little more, such are the limits of styrene injection moulding. The small aerodynamic bracing struts that fit between the inner edge of the intake and the fuselage are separate parts, and are shown in both the installed position and as part of the exploded construction diagram to assist with correct placement. A scrap diagram from the front would have helped further, but instead check your references, as there are plenty of head-on pics out there. The two canards are installed later on a pair of attachment lugs, and each one is a single piece, with moulded-in flaps and a single vortex generator on the top of the winglet. I would have preferred the flaps separate, as the aircraft looks good with them down, and they often taxi in with them down after using them to improve lift on landings, as well as on take-off. The big vertical fin is separate, and has an insert on the port spine to cater for other earlier variants down the line. Various auxiliary intakes and exhausts are added down the fuselage and spine into recesses, and the small T-shaped air-brakes are added forward of the reverser outlets on each side, with another two under the fuselage. There doesn't seem to be any provision for deploying them, as there are no actuators provided, and the bays into which they fit are devoid of detail. It's not a major issue however, as they tend to be closed up for the most part. The gear bays have been nicely detailed from the box, and with the addition of the landing gear should suffice for most modellers' needs. The nose gear leg fits into a recess in the rear of the bay, and has a separate strut and oleo-scissor link. The bay doors each have hinge-points and a separate retractor link, and there are two clear landing light parts added inside the bay, angled slightly down. The main gear bays are each single parts, but have been detailed sufficiently with moulded-in shapes to give a good impression. The big main doors are usually closed on the ground anyway, so most of it will be hidden. The Viggen was unusual in having a pair of inline wheels on a horizontal leg, which rotated around the end of the main leg, offering better rough-field performance. This has been replicated faithfully using eleven parts for each leg and its retraction mechanism, plus another two for the stub-axles that hold the two-part wheels in place. The wheels are nice, but they're not the strongest part of the kit, and could bear replacing with some aftermarket if they come around. The same could be said of the twin nose-wheels, which are each single parts, but all would be improved by the addition of a flat-spot to simulate the aircraft's weight, so if you're keeping them, get your sanding sticks out. The outer bay doors are captive to the gear leg, and have hinge points to give them a good chance of remaining in place during handling or travel to shows. Under the fuselage are the two belly pylons that were drilled holes for earlier, and a large combined "hump" that integrates a centreline pylon with the gun pack that contains an Oerlikon cannon and 150 rounds of ammunition. This also partially surrounds a ventral strake, and a large fuel tank is supplied to sit on the pylon, because all fighters are always short of fuel. The tank is made of two halves split vertically, and has four separate stabilising fins that fit into slots in the body. Sadly for anyone wishing to load up their Viggen from the box contents, there are no weapons available in the kit, but as she was capable of carrying AIM-120s, AIM-9 Sidewinders and Skyflash, there are plenty of options already available in aftermarket. I'm sure that some indigenous options will be forthcoming in due course too. The last act involves the canopy, which can be posed open or closed using the same two parts. The windscreen will need fairing in for a little extra realism, and the canopy can be fitted open or closed by inserting the hinge tabs in at the appropriate angle. A clear HUD glass is also provided for the coaming, which is incidentally moulded into the fuselage halves, so will need the seam hiding before you paint. Markings There are three options in the box, and each represents one of the major schemes that the JA37 Viggen wore during its career. From the box you can build one of the following: 37351 F-17 Wing - All over bare metal/silver, with red 39 on the tail & black radome. 37378 F-4 Wing - Black/dark green/green/brown splinter pattern with red 38 on the wings and tail. 37449 F-16 Wing - Medium grey with light grey undersides and nose, wearing either a red 49 or an operational black alternative. The schemes aren't cross-referenced to any paint system on the sheet, but on the inside cover of the instructions you will find call-outs in Gunze-Sangyo codes with their names under a heading for each scheme. There are soon to be some pics of the example at Newark appearing in the Walkaround section, so check back when you can. Decals are well printed, with good registration, colour density and sharpness, and include the dielectric panel on the side as well as a large number of stencils that are references on the centre double spread of the painting guide. Even the pylons are festooned with stencils, and you get a set of slime-lights to add to your model. Conclusion Speaking personally, I couldn't be happier that we now have a new tooling of the Viggen in 1:48, and am glad they took the quality route and made us wait. Objectively, it's a great kit, and well worth the delay while they converted to a more durable tooling with better detail. We could have asked for some cockpit decals, a couple of weapons and such, but that seems somewhat churlish when we consider that this is a relatively new company making inroads into Swedish aviation history. I promised a member to give him some dimensions, and with a length of 16.4m, we're looking at a length of 34cm, wingspan is 10.6m, which scales down to 22cm give or take. Not a small aircraft by any means! I understand that it will be priced around £60 when released, which might put a few off, but when you consider the price of a well-known Japanese company's F-18s in the same scale, with a huge market, this starts to look like even better value. Tarangus are a brave company and deserve our support to continue giving us relatively left-field subject matter. Do your part by consigning your old Airfix kits to the back of the stash, and relish the work and/or aftermarket you'll save by buying a Tarangus Viggen. Available soon from all good model shops. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  24. Our friends at Ultimate are at it again! Not content with producing the best thinners and airbrush cleaner for just about every brand of acrylic paint in our modelling universe, some really cool sanders, they've now decided to start offering model kits for the discerning buyer. Not your mainstream run-of-the-mill kits you can find everywhere, but more left-of-field that you might not see very often. They've started with Tarangus (see their announcement here), and will be broadening the range as time goes by. They've also got something new to bring to the market this quarter, and Lee is being very cloak-and-dagger about it, so I can't wait to see what it is! Meantime, you can check out their competitive pricing of Tarangus and everything else by clicking their logo below
  25. This is my latest completion - SAAB J29B Tunnan assembled from new Tarangus kit OOB decals represent aircraft from F.8 Wing at Barkarby near Stockholm somewhere in mid-50s Kit is quite nice overall - but be patient to align wings, stabiliser, and particularly resin wheel bays. My additions included resin wheels from Aires, metal pitot tubes, some improvements in cockpit - seat harness, port side wall inside the cabin. I also replaced original exhaust pipe (a veeery basic!) with a plastic ring+resin nozzle for MiG-15. I cut the rear part of MiG-15's nozzle with turbine blades and attached it to plastic ring. Tunnans were not painted which resulted in various shades of panels as can be judged from photos. I tried to reflect this effect by painting my Tunnan with 5 various shades of aluminium. Enjoy the photos
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