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Found 29 results

  1. At the iHobbyExpo 2013 in the US, Minicraft displayed the box art from a future 1/48th new tool Beechcraft T-34A/B Mentor kit - ref.11671. Release is expected in 2014. Source: http://www.cybermodeler.com/special/ihe13.shtml V.P.
  2. Battle of Berlin (April 1945) (DS3506) 1:35 ICM The battle for Berlin was a bloody one between the advancing Russian Armies and the defending Germans fighting street by street, and sometime room by room. The main tanks for the advancing Russian was the T-34 while the Germans just made do with what ever they had left, these could include the odd King Tiger. While on a one to one basis the T-34 was out classed, the Russian had many more of them then the Germans had King Tigers, and the T-34 was a far more reliable Tank, Pz.Kpfw.VI Ausf.B King Tiger With Henschel Turret There has been a proliferation of Tigers and King Tigers of late, and this is ICM's take on this behemoth of WWII. This was a new tooling back in 2016. The successor to the much vaunted Tiger heavy tank instilled more terror in the Allied forces due to initial encounters lending an almost invincible air to the design. It was soon found that although it packed a formidable punch, and could absorb a lot of punishment, it was in fact a flawed design from an engineering point of view. Stressing the transmission even further than the Tiger I, they suffered terrible attrition due to breakdowns, leading to many examples being captured or scuttled by their crew if these breakdowns occurred under fire. When it worked, it was very difficult to kill, and could seriously outrange almost everything on the battlefield, but as with the Tiger I before it, the Allies worked out a strategy to take them out by cooperative attacks between multiple Allied tanks. As well as the reliability issues that were never fully addressed due to the state of the war, the complexity of the design was such that they were never available in sufficient quantities to make a difference, and even when they were, Hitler's obsession with micro-managing every aspect of the war led to some poor placement of resources. Many King Tigers were captured by the Allies and taken back for analysis, with a few remaining intact long enough to find their way into museums, such as the one at Bovington. The Jagdtiger was a development of the King Tiger, using the chassis to mount an even more powerful gun in a casemate, but again very few of these saw action too late in the war. Now for the hull. There isn't a traditional "tub" for the hull, and you start by building up the sponsons, final drive housing and the torsion bars for the suspension. The hull floor is a sled to which the lowest parts are added before being partially covered by the torsion bars that extend across the hull floor. The addition of the sponsons finishes off the lower tub The King Tiger was designed with overlapping pairs of road wheels, learning from the mistakes of the Tiger I which had interleaved wheels to spread the vehicle's weight, which could result in taking off up to 14 wheels if an inner one needed repair or maintenance. The all-up weight increased substantially between the two vehicles, so there are a LOT of pairs of wheels on a Königstiger, with nine axles each side, plus the idler and drive sprockets, all of which are assembled from two parts each and fitted to their respective swing-arms. These are capped off with hubs, and later in the build the tracks are wrapped around them. The upper hull is supplied as a traditional main part with a hole in the rear for the engine bay, turret aperture and the lift-out front section that encompasses the hull crew hatches. The radiator vents are moulded-in, giving no opportunity to display a radiator bay without surgery to the hull, which is a minor negative IMHO. Periscopes are slotted into the front of the hull, hatches are added to the front insert, mushroom vents to the engine insert, and the Kugelblende armoured blister surrounding the bow machinegun is backed with a box to receive the gun stub in preparation for installation, with a small forest of lifting lugs littering the engine deck and lift-out hatches. Armoured covers are fitted to the periscopes and the vents on the engine deck, which leaves it ready for adding to the lower hull in advance of adding all the various smaller parts such as track and pioneer tools, mudguards, armoured exhausts, towing cables,& shackles. The turret secures with a bayonet fitting, and an aerial is glued into a socket on the engine deck, completing the build phase. Markings There are four decal options included in the box, with enough variation in finish from white distemper through Dunkelgelb to two Ambush schemes, that will please most folks without resorting to aftermarket decals. From the box you can build one of the following (which strangely enough none are from Berlin?) Pz.Kpfw.VI Ausf.B, Tank black 300 Feldhernhalle Winter distemper over Dunklegelb , Hungary 1945 Pz.Kpfw.VI Ausf.B, Dunklegelb overall ,Pz.Abt. 503 Danzig March 1945 Pz.Kpfw.VI Ausf.B, Tank blue 332 Pz.Abt. 501 3 tone camo Ardennes Dec 1944 Pz.Kpfw.VI Ausf.B, Tank Red 008 Pz.Abt. 501, 3 tone camo Ardennes Dec 1944 This is an AFV, so the decal sheet is modest in size, with only a few markings on the sheet. The registration is perfect the sample, as is the colour density and sharpness, T-34 Here ICM have re-boxed their 2015 new tool T-34. It arrives in their usual box with the extra flap over the lower tray. Inside are six sprues and two hull halves in green styrene, tracks and towing cables in flexible black styrene, decal sheet and the instruction booklet, which is printed in colour and has profiles at the rear for painting and markings. From the description above, you'll note that these are rubber-band tracks, which suits some and not others, and if you're a fan of metal or individual link styrene tracks, you've probably got your favourite brands already. The detail is nice with a little room for improving the detail with some etched grilles etc., but for most of us the detail is pretty good out of the box, and even though this is an exterior only kit, you get an almost complete breech if you want to pose the turret hatches open, plus a driver's position. For a change the build begins with the upper hull, detailing it with bow machine gun installation with a movable ball, the armoured vents and filling in the other cut-outs on the engine deck, plus the driver's large hatch at the front, which is best left closed unless you're planning on scratching a full interior to back up the seats! The rear bulkhead, armoured exhaust spats and the pipes themselves are all added at the back, and it is then put to the side while the lower hull is prepared with some holes that need drilling, the suspension boxes gluing in behind the hull sides, and the fender extensions added at the rear. After saying there's no interior, there is a pair of control levers and two comfy seats to fit inside the lower hull, but unless you're crowding the area with some beefy figures, there's still a big gap behind them that might be seen. The axles with their swing-arms are all fitted to the hull after the two halves are joined, with two attachment points, the final-drive housing is built up at the rear, and the idler axle slots into the front in preparation for the road wheels, which are supplied individually to make into pairs before they are glued onto the axles. The same happens to the idler and drive sprockets on both sides, then some light detail is applied to the hull in the shape of towing shackles, tie-down bars, and the tracks are joined, then installed. The tracks are in two parts each, which link together seamlessly, but don't react to liquid cement at all, so use super glue (CA), although the instructions are mute on the subject. Aligning the joins at the centre of the track run should hide any visible seams, especially if you're going to paint and weather them with some mud and grit. There is a simple round plug with a built in hatch to replace turret. The hull is then finished off with additional fuel tanks and tarp rolls, plus two tow cables. Markings Again with the T-34 there are no Berlin specific markings. You get 4 options, the colour is any you want as long as it Russian green 1. Tank 242 7th Guards Tank Corps, Germany 1945 2. Tank 201 7th Guards Mechanised Corps, Germany Spring 1945 3. Tank 315 4th Guards Tank Army, Germany Spring 1945 4 Tank 5, unknown Unit, Germany 1945 Conclusion It is good to see ICM bringing us a double boxing like this. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Somewhere in the Soviet Union... This started as a build of an old Tamiya T-34 kit to test the hairspray technique. The model was left for two years before I found the inspiration to complete it again a couple of months ago. Figures are Miniart.
  4. AVM Scale Models (link) has just released a retooling of its 1/72nd Beechcraft T-34 Mentor resin kit - ref. Source: https://www.facebook.com/AVM.ScaleModels/posts/2435770459779789 V.P.
  5. M. Fan Cheng Ping (樊成彬) - usually publishing infos about Freedom Model Kits and KASL Hobby in the Taiwanese forums - has published pictures of a 1/48th Beechcraft T-34C Turbo Mentor resin test/design model. From various messages, it appear it'll be a injected plastic kit from Freedom Model Kits (FMK). Source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MilitaryModelingSRG/permalink/1879366678945880/ Something to replace the OOP Czech Model kit. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/151929-czech-model-4809-t-34c-turbo-mentor To be followed V.P.
  6. I have always thought the three T-34 precursors (A-20, armed with 45mm cannon, 4 main wheels in the tracks instead of 5, and BT-7 tracks, A-32, armed with short barrel L-10 76mm cannon, 400mm thick tracks, and 5 wheels for each side tracks, and A-34, which had 550mm wide tracks, a longer L-11 76mm gun, and 5 wheeled tracks. The A-34's only difference to the T-34 Model 1940 was that it had a huge headlight on top of the barrel, and 37mm frontal armour plating instead of 45mm). I have decided to replicate the A-32. The first step was finding the 1/100 T-34 model 1940 in my "stash". (Which is really only 15 kits - I'm only 15 myself, but I'm sure some people on here will envy the tiny stash of mine ) After I found out I had already started it, and had attempted to remove the paint with sandpaper at some point, unsuccessfully, I finally came to terms that the model will have a slightly thicker coat of paint than I would like. The second thing I added were some neodymium magnets to the hull of the tank and inside the turret, so I can move the turret instead of gluing it in place. The third thing I did was take some sprue cutters and cut the L-11 gun to the size of a L-10. I eyeballed this. The A-32 also had these little pieces of metal in the middle of the turret that poked out. I'm guess this was where they welded the two sides of the turret and added a small piece of metal on the welded edges to strengthen the bond. This was not on any of the T-34's, they were all single piece turrets if I recall correctly. To make these, I took a piece of cardboard and cut the corrugation off and then cut each one to about 3mm in width, and superglued it to the appropriate place. The A-32 also had two periscope instead of one as the T-34 had, the second periscope was in the rear of the turret, the first in the front. I simply cut a piece of wire and glued it in place with pliers. The A-32 had one large headlight above a coaxial machine gun. Since the zvezda kit does not model the machine gun, I took a dremel and drilled a hole and stuck a small thin piece of stretched sprue to replicate a MG. For the headlight, I found a searchlight that was from a 1/350 scale resin subchaser, it was the perfect size and looked like the A-32's headlight. The tracks on the A-32 were 400mm thick instead of 550mm as on the T-34, but I found Zvezda's kit tracks were too thin anyways, so no change was done there. Anyways this is my progress to create a diverse tiny scale 1/100 Soviet arsenal. Enjoy so far! RJ
  7. Another project that languished for a bit. I mostly enjoyed the build, although the ICM T-34 had some fit issues, and the tracks don't want to take paint, which peels off easily. As a result, I was unable to weather the wheels and tracks as much as I wanted to.
  8. Dear fellow Britmodellers, this is an aircraft modeller's attempt on "Heavy Metal" - Dragon's 1/72 T-34/85 Mod.1944. Built from the box with the addition of metal towing cable from the spares box. Earlier Dragon kits did include this, as well as photo-etch pieces, but their new (orange) boxings contain plastic parts only. It still builds into a very nice model kit, probably the best in 72 scale. I still need to improve my skills on tank painting and weathering, but I hope you like the outcome. Painted with Gunze acrylics (Olive Drab H80), photographed by Wolfgang Rabel. With kind regards from Vienna.
  9. After the 1/48th kit (link) Freedom Model Kits (FMK) is working on a 1/32nd Beechcraft T-34C Turbo Mentor kit - ref.12003 Sources: https://www.facebook.com/Freedommodelkits/posts/1492074717539711 https://www.facebook.com/groups/MilitaryModelingSRG/permalink/1931772517038629/ V.P.
  10. Hi all, This is my first armour model in years, certainly since joining BM and it's the old Matchbox T-34. I have built this as part of the ongoing Matchbox GB and mine is not the only bit of armour being done for it, though some more would be nice. I know it's not a super accurate kit but was built as a bit of nostalgia and fun and I really enjoyed building it, and it will not be my last armour model either. Anyway here are some pictures; And for those of you who are interested here is a link to the build. Thanks for looking in. Craig.
  11. Couldn't resist the lure of this GB any longer! I used to build lots of Matchbox armour (and aircraft) kits in my youth and I used to like how easily they went together and the fact that they were good subjects and seemed accurate too, at least they did at the time! This is the only Matchbox kit I have in the stash so it didn't take long to choose what to build! Anyway, time for the usual box and sprue shots. I always liked the dramatic pictures on the Matchbox boxes and used to draw my own (terrible) versions of them as a kid. The wonderfully coloured plastic. I can assure you that the blue is every bit as hard on the eye in real life as it is in the picture! Tracks look like they will be fun too. And the instructions and massive decal sheet. I will build it mostly OOTB but will leave off the anti-aircraft machine gun on the turret as I don't think they were carried on this model of T-34, I believe it's meant to be a 1942 model. i will look for an interesting scheme for it, either a winter scheme or a green and brown one, I am open to suggestions. Won't be starting for a couple of days as I have a Dornier Do-17 to complete first for the Radial Engines Rock GB. Thanks for looking in. Craig.
  12. Soviet T-34-76 with Tank Riders ICM 1:35 History The T-34 was and remains a legend. It is not only the most produced tank of the WWII-era, with 84,000 built (compared to the 48,966 Shermans of all versions) but also one of the longest-serving tanks ever built. Many are still stored in depots in Asia and Africa, and some served actively during the 90’s (such as during the 1991-99 Yugoslavian war). They formed the backbone of countless armoured forces around the globe from the fifties to the eighties. The basic design was drawn for the first time in 1938 with the A-32, in turn partially derived from the BT-7M, a late evolution of the US-born Christie tank. The first version of the T-34/76 came as a nasty surprise for the overconfident German troops in the fall of 1941, when it was first committed en masse. Not only were they able to cope with the mud and snow with their large tracks, but they came with a perfect combination of thick and highly sloped armour, efficient gun, good speed, autonomy and, above all, extreme sturdiness, reliability, ease of manufacturing and maintenance. While the T-34 did have a number of deficiencies, the T-34’s influence on the future designs and the concept of the main battle tank is unquestionable. The Model The model arrives in a strong box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the tank and riders on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are five sprues and two hull parts of green styrene and, four lengths of tracks, there is also a sprue of light brown styrene, for the tank riders, and a smallish decal sheet. On initial inspection the parts are really well moulded, clean, with no sign of flash. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching some items like are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if not careful. The build begins with the fitting of the engine cover onto the rear decking, and the bow machine gun, armoured tear drop, mantle and ball. The two intake covers are then assembled and also fitted to the rear deck. The two piece bow mounted machine gun is then assembled and slide into the ball of the mounting, being glued such that it is still moveable, whilst there are four plates that are fitted to the underside of the rear decking. The drivers hatch is made up form four parts before being glued into position. Back aft, the rear bulkhead is attached, followed by the radiator cover. Inside the lower hull section the eight suspension boxes are fitted, four per side as are the two driver’s control sticks, whilst the rear mudguards are fitted to the rear. On the outside the driver gearbox covers are fitted, as are the five axles on their torsion beam suspension arms and the idler axles. The drivers are machine gunners seats, each made from six parts are glued in their appropriate positions and the two hull halves joined together. Each of the idler wheels, drive sprockets and road wheels are made from two parts before being fitted to their respective axles. The four towing hooks are then attached, two at the front and two aft. The upper hull is then fitted out with grab handles, stowage beams and a couple of smaller hooks. Each of the two halves of rubber track lengths are joined together and slide of the wheels. While there isn’t really any interior, ICM have allowed for the fact that some modellers like to have the hatches open, to that effect there is some semblance of interior parts. The main gun breech is made up form twelve parts, and although relatively simple, does look quite effective. On the outside of the turret the mantlet and fixed section of the mantlet cover are fitted, the breech assembly is then glued to the mantlet from the inside and the lower turret, including the turret ring is glued into place. The moving section of the mantlet cover is then attached, along with the machine gun muzzle. The three piece mantlet extension and two piece main gun is then fitted, along with the five piece cupola, gunners hatch, grab handles, ventilator dome, viewing block and top armour plate for the mantlet. There are more stowage bars, periscope sights, lifting eyes and viewing blocks fitted to the turret before the whole assembly is fitted to the upper hull. Final assembly includes the four, four piece fuel drums, each with two cradles, spare track links, stowage boxes and aerial base. There is a four piece folded tarpaulin, (in place of one of the fuel drums), another stowage box, two more track links headlight, horn, two towing cables and a large saw attached before the model can be declares complete. Normally this is where the build stops, but with this kit you also get four tank riders, as they were used to protect the tanks, particularly with the Germans introducing the Panzerfaust and also ease their journey from one place to the other. This set of four figures depicts the riders as alert and ready for danger, hunkering down slightly with their eyes front (at least in the boxtop shot), and weapons at the ready. They are dressed in the familiar quilted uniform seem during this period, with the typical fur hat with ear-flaps tied over the top and a depiction of the red star on the front. Three are armed with the PPSh-41, while the remainder has the smaller PPS with curved magazine, which was a cheap alternative to the more expensive and robust PPSh, and typically used in vehicles as a personal defence weapon. Each soldier is provided with a crude day sack, equipment and magazine pouches and a drinking bottle, but none carry a sidearm in case of weapons malfunction. The figures are all broken down as torso, two separate legs and arms, separate heads and hats, and all the pouches. Even the PPSh-41s have separate drum magazines for ease of moulding. Sculpting on the figures is excellent, with different faces on each head, and subtle differences between the figures, such as medals adorning the chests of three of the figures. Construction is so simple that it is ignored, relying on the painting guide having all the information you need such as part numbers, and that a picture speaks a thousand words. Colours are called out in red letters in boxes, which corresponds to a table on the flip side, giving names for the colours as well as Revell and Tamiya paint codes. Decals The decal sheet provides six options for tanks that each served in 1944. All of the tanks are in all over green, two with slogans on the turret, the rest with just numbers and/or badges. The choices are:- A T-34, 24th Tank Regiment, 46th Mechanised Brigade, Byelrussia. July 1944 A T-34 18th Guards Tank Brigade, 3rd Guards Tank Corps, Byelrussia, July 1944 A T-34 Sevastepol, May 1944 A T-34 of an undesignated unit, from the Summer of 1944. A T-34, 4th Guards Mechanized Corps, Romania, August 1944 A T-34, 10th Guards Ural Tank Corps, Ukraine, Summer 1944. Conclusion This is another nice kit from ICM. Although not the most complicated of tank kits it does look the part is would make a nice, relaxing weekend build. The addition of the tank riders is a very nice touch, and they don’t necessarily have to be used with this kit, so they have more potential. Just a shame that the tracks let the kit down, either go full rubber band or even link and length styrene, but the method chosen for these is definitely a step backward. Review sample courtesy of
  13. Presumably Zvezda snap-kit is better than any of the trio mentioned above, but i don't like the looks of the hex-turret model 1942/43. So can anybody tell me what are the pros and cons for the early production T-34 in Braille scale? Is Dragon really so wrong and Unimodels so good? And what about the Trumpeter? Is it worth its price?
  14. After almost 50 years of modelling (mostly aircraft, but also ships, cars, railways) at last I decided to build a small collection of AFVs in 1/72. Frankly speaking somewhere deep in the 70s or 80s I have built two or three such models (Centurion, Patton and 155mm M40 IIRC), but the time goes by and new kits appear every year. As a newbie in this ocean of modelling I would like to know your opinion which kits of several WW2 AFVs are the best on the market now. I'm not a rivet-counter, but correct shape and sharp surface detail are more important for me than sheer number of parts, opened hatches and detailed interior. So which kit would you buy to model the : Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. G (ESCI/Hasegawa/Italeri, Revell, Dragon, Trumpeter) T-34-76 (ESCI/Hasegawa/Italeri, Revell, AER/Toga/Parc, Zvezda, Trumpeter, Dragon, Unimodels, Eastern Express) T-26 (SKIF/Unimodels, Mirage, S-model, Pegasus) M4 Sherman - original variant, not M4A and later (Dragon, Italeri, Trumpeter, Heller) M3 Stuart - also "plain" M3, neither M3A nor M5 (Hasegawa/Revell, Alanger, Mirage) Eager to hear your opinion
  15. T-34 Wafer Type Workable Track Links Set 1:35 Miniart These tracks from Miniart are suitable for their T-34 and Su-122 kits. There are 10 sprues of the track links with guide horns and 8 lengths of the intermediate links. The links with the guide horns have small pins on then which are designed to click into holes on the intermediate links. Conclusion While these links do indeed look good, while attempting to get a set to link together to include in the review I found that they would not "click" together easily. I found that the pins in the guide horn links would often bend over, rather than click into the receiving holes. With these it's a one-shot deal, as once they have bent there is no easy way of getting them back, so you end up with track links that you have to glue together. This could just have been my bad luck, or just down to me however your experience may vary. Review sample provided by
  16. An aircraft modeller's attempt on 'Heavy Metal'. After building Zvezda's Yak-3 'Snap Kit' I was so impressed by the quality and ease of build that I acquired some vehicles from their 'Snap Kit' range as well. Detail is sufficient, but not as good as with Dragon or Revell. Most suprising issue - there are no grab handles included. These are quite prominent on T-34s, so I added them from my spares box. The tow cable is from a Dragon kit. I really like Zvezda's design for the tracks, they come as one piece. You simply wrap them around the wheels. It's a good idea to dip it in hot water first. I didn't, and mine broke up, but were easy to fix with a drop of glue. I much prefer that system over the link-and-lenght tracks that I find very difficult to work with in small scale. I painted the model with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics (H80). The tarpaulin is a resin item from CMK. Exhausts were drilled open. Weathered with artists oils and pastel chalks. Thanks for your interest!
  17. This is my 1/72 T-34/85 from Ukrainian manufacturer Unimodel (aka UM). According to my research this was built at Factory 112 in 1944. Markings from the box, towing cable from the spares box (probably of Dragon origin). Metal gun barrel from CMK. Not entirely happy how this turned out. Being primarily an aircraft modeller, I still need to learn a lot about link-and-length tracks. These do not sit right and produce a 'kinky' look which is unnatural. May have to go through more military vehicle models to improve my experience! Thanks for looking, anyway. Since the prominent welding line along the turret was lost during sanding, I replicated this with a piece of stretched sprue, molten in liquid glue: Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel of IGM Cars & Bikes. Greetings from Vienna! Roman
  18. Hi all, this is my first RFI in this forum. About the kit, it was quite good besides a few bad joins and the vinyl tracks may disappoint some, but very good otherwise. Airbrushed with Tamiya acrylics, and details with Humbrol paints. The base was made out of gyp-rock, and the walls of cardboard. Any more info on asking It is meant to look quite heavily weathered btw. Full WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234990517-revell-135-t-3476-model-1943/ Anyway some photos! Any criticisms, advice, and tips are welcome
  19. Hi everyone, this will be my first WIP on this forum. Here is the box art of the kit: (pretty bad image i know ) Won't be starting for a little while because I am quite busy today. All for now
  20. SJLR_1

    T-34/76 Info

    Hi Just wondering if any T-34 crews ever stored spare wheels/road tyres/drive sprockets (etc.) on the outside of their tanks. Like so: Also, I was wondering if Tamiya XF-26 Deep Green or XF-61 Dark Green would be the closest match to a real T-34. Thanks for looking!
  21. Hi folks, A few pics of my T-34/76 Sotka Ps.231-3 commanded by 2/Lt Teppo during the battle of Tali-Ihantala on the Karelian Isthmus in the summer of 1944. The Finnish Tank Company used various (captured) Russian tanks such as T-28, T-50, Klim Voroshilov and the famous T-34/76. The Finnish Soldiers called it 'Sotka' ('Duck'). It is the Dragon T-34/76 Mod. 41, Cast turret kit with some scratch built parts. Painted with Gunze and weathered with Ammo. Note: The Finnish swastika, Hakaristi, was officially taken into use after an order by Mannerheim on 18 March 1918. The Hakaristi had nothing to do with Nazi-Germany. It was used until 1945 when it had to be changed due to an Allied Control Commission decree, where the swastika had to be abandoned due to the symbol's association with Nazism. Thanks for looking //Fred
  22. This is the T-34/85 preserved in running order at the Cobbaton Combat Collection.
  23. T-34 Chevron Type. Mod 1942 Track Links MSD 1:35 To go with the replacement turret reviewed HERE MSD have also released a set of individual track links for a T-34 Mod.1942. The nine sprues of light grey styrene each contain 20 links half with control horns, half without, to produce the Chevron style tracks shown in the box top picture. Unfortunately these are not the nice user-friendly snap and click type, but the glue together type, with no real positive lock. That said with a bit of patience and forward thinking these still look like they will assemble into a good looking set of accurate tracks. Personally I would treat them as you would link and length and assemble as such before fitting to the model. The attachments to the sprues are on the inner and outer edges so clean up is pretty simple after removal, and with no sign of flash, good clean joining points, it shouldn’t take too long to assemble Conclusion Whilst not the easiest method of achieving an accurate length of track, these links do look like they will be very effective. Recommended Review sample courtesy of
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