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Found 29 results

  1. Hi all. Currently I´m working on my second Special Hobby Viggen in 1:72 scale. In the meantime I want to show you the first one. It´s the SK 37 trainer from the "AJ 37/SK 37 - Duo Pack". Only aftermarket item I added was a pilot from PJ Production. The Viggen is painted with different shades of aluminium from AlcladII. The base was drawn in Affinity Photo and printed on rigid foam board. Daniel
  2. I got a Heller SAAB J 21A out from the stash. I decide to try another approach attaching wings to the fuselage. The wings are three parts, one large bottom and two parts for the top so I started by building them together as I always done before. But when I got to the fuselage I only glued the part in front of the cockpit and let it set. Then I glued the fuselage to the wing assembly leaving the rear of the fuselage unglued. This way I could press the fuselage out to the wings leaving no gap to be filled. When the glue had set I glued the top of the rear fuselage together. Now I had to add a small wedge of plastic card under the rear fuselage but I find this easier to sand after I add filler to it than to fill and sand a fuselage-wing joint. I have made holes in the front of the booms for landing lights. With the booms still off I can build landing light inserts an mount them from behind. I have also made a hole on the left wing for a new pitot tube. I am building a late version and the tube was moved from the right wing to the left. I managed to break of the gun in the nose an while looking at pictures I noticed that the gun isn't mounted exactly in the centre so I'll fix that when I build a new gun. I sanded away the structure on the aileron's as I'm building one with ailerons made of metal. A bomb pylon is built using a F-18 pylon as a base and wing tip tanks leftover from the Broplan J 21R conversion set. The air intake on the fuselage side has been drilled out a bit .Guns are replaced with brass tubing. I had to add some filler to the boom/wing joint but the big problem with this kit is to build the canopy trying to fit the parts together. I have added some rocket mounts that was leftover from a Special Hobby J 21R. I found an easy way to fill the landing light holes to get something to glue the lights to. My first thought was to add some plastic card but to get it in the right shape and size would be tricky and then to get it in place. Instead I inserted a ball of Magic Sculp (two component clay) from behind. Then I sanded a piece of sprue to a square shape that fits the hole and pressed the clay back so I get some space and a flat surface for the light. I also found some left over seat belts from a Lansen build that I used. Not correct but hardly visible.
  3. I've started a new build with something that has always interested me. I'm a bit stunned that there is now not only modelkits of these objects but they are also very, very good! I might warn you that this build might sound like a commercial for the company Pilot Replicas but I don't work for them, unfortunatly... These are the kits I'm going to try and do something nice with: I was going to start this topic a few weeks ago but I couldn't resist building instead. I've started the J 29 Tunnan and I'm loving it. I have been building models for the last 30 years but I have never seen this quality in a "mainstream kit"! The parts fit together like a dream and the sharpness of the detail is great. The whole package just screams quality! As I said... I'm sorry but it's a great kit and I'm very happy. The J 29 is my absolute favourite aircraft of all time. As some of you might already know I have a full scale one to play with! Stay tuned! I will post more pictures of the build as soon as can upload them to Photobucket. Andreas / Rudolf_Filip
  4. Most of you that have not seen my WIP are probably not familiar with this one. It was a never-realised project from the late fifties to create an attack-/bomber aircraft to carry the projected (but later cancelled) Swedish nuclear bomb. See more in the WIP thread. The whole project was cancelled since it would have become too expensive, and instead Saab started working on what became Viggen. But this is the missing "36" between Saab 35 Draken and Saab 37 Viggen. I used RBD Decals for Saab A 32 Lansen. This individual is portraited as it would have looked like in about 1969. The camouflage pattern is inspired by a suggestion for Viggen, before the classic splinter camouflage was created. Main landing gear and wheels are modified F-14 Tomcat ones. The front leg is a modified 1/48 Starfighter leg. Wing tanks are from a F-16. A nice fighting face! Finally a duo that could have been...
  5. Since I am almost exactly as old as the 50-year celebrating Saab Viggen it was pretty logical to start a few Viggen builds this year. My plan is to build the first and the last Viggen, and I am currently working on a Tarangus JA 37 that will become 37449, the last Viggen. But here is the first one, the first prototype in its first configuration that flew for the first time on February 8 1967: I used the old Esci/Airfix kit which of course might sound rather stupid... But I had one in my stash, so it was cheaper to build it than to buy a new Tarangus. Many modifications had to be made. Most visible are the flat back - the typical Viggen "hump" had to be removed - and the V-shaped canards. The huge pitot tube was made by Maestro models. The wing dogtooth also had to be removed and new radar warning recievers(?) were scratchbuilt (under the wings, later they were integrated with the wing). I also had to make new panel lines and modify the fin and main wheels (both are from the Tarangus kit). I used the Tarangus cockpit, a seat from Maestro and a scratch-built instrument panel. The Viggen prototypes had a mostly green cockpit, like Draken, but unlike the rest of the Viggens where it was light grey. Scratch-built FOD covers were necessary to hide the horrible inside. Cockpit: Decals (apart from the roundels) were printed on my own printer. I painted it with Vallejo metal acrylics. Thanks for watching!
  6. For the 50 year anniversary of the first flight of the Viggen I built two Lansen's used in the test program. First out is a A 32A Lansen "Gamma" used for tests of the Radar and some electronics. It is a Heller 1/72 kit with "Gamma" parts from Maestro Models and decals from Moose Republic (ex. RBD decals) Next is a J 32B used for ejection seat tests. Also a Heller kit that was converted to the Fighter variant J 32B using the conversion set from Maestro Models. I had to scratch build a new canopy and the fairing behind the cockpit and also the camera pods on the wing tips. The decals are the J 32 prototype decals from Moose Republic and some of my own,
  7. I have been building Viggen prototypes The first one is the full scale wooden mock up that SAAB built before the actual prototypes. 37-0 Airfix 1/72 conversion. Next is the first prototype 37-1 Also an Airfix kit. Built with the canards pointing upward like they were initially. Second prototype 37-2 Also an Airfix kit. Canards in the normal position. The first two Viggens had green cockpits and since the Airfix kit was bare I made some paper cockpits for them. Frontal view of 37-1 and 37-2 Next is the fifth prototype, 37-5 A converted Hasegawa kit. It got the modified wings with a "sawtooth" and moved radar warning so I had to convert the wings. The first prototype after modifications. As it looked with modified wings and the raised spine in front of the fin. During spin tests it got a bit more colourful. Built from a Matchbox kit. 37800 the two seat prototype. Matchbox kit with the low fin from a Heller kit. The twin seater got an higher fin but Matchbox didn't do this correct so I decided to build the prototype in it's initial form with the lower fin.
  8. Yesterday it was 50 years since the first flight of the Viggen so I built myself another viggen to commemorate this. Heller 1/72 SAAB AJ 37 in early configuration. It means using the small twin intakes in front of the external fuel tank and the larger fin under the tail. Same as the two seater. Armament are two Rb 05 missiles and two 30mm gun pods.
  9. Hello, I’m a new member of this community and I’ve decided to start my first “in progress” topic. Honestly this decision was boosted by the very nice feedback I’ve received after posting one of my models here. The subject is “a Swedish Draken”. I have to admit that I’m not an expert neither on this flying machine nor on Swedish aviation but the memories of my early beginnings in plastic kits are strongly connected to the 1/100 scale Plastikart Draken. That was a different era, today the hobby looks more like OEM work but I do not regret it (I’m old, with job wife and kid and free time should be used efficiently, isn’t it? Too much talk, what do we have? The Revell/ Hasegawa kit (as you can see in the picture) and few “supporting” products: photoetched set and canopy masks from Eduard and turned brass Pitot tubes from Maestromodels. I do not want to spend a fortune on this subject so apart from the listed above, paints and stuff only my limited abilities will improve the model. What do I want to do? … the perfect Draken, of course. Honestly, a lot less. Just a Swedish version in “grey colours and bright orange numbers” As I said I’m not an expert so your support is highly appreciated. If you know something please say it here. I’ll try to transfer all that info into my model. Let’s start with my (first) questions: 1. Any know issues regarding the geometry of the kit? 2. My experience with Revell decals is mixed – are the decals in this boxing of any use? Do they respond to the “setting stuff” or I have to consider aftermarket decals? The big number on the upper wings is not an issue as I’ve already decided to replace it with masks and paints. 3. I’m considering Vallejo Model Air paints for this; any known recipes for the two grey shades out of Vallejo Model Air range? Venceremos, mack NB: for the moderators; considering the documentation component of this build thank you for moving the topic to a different category if you consider necessary.
  10. Here is a first look at this exciting release, which also is a bit scaring after the Hobbyboss Tunnan. Let us start with the boxart: Nice boxart, for once it is correct with the often shown mountains on Swedish subjects, since F4 wing is located in northern Sweden (although this looks more like the Alps than the Swedish mountains, but you can't win them all... ) First sprue with body halves: First the most important question: Is it really 1/48 scale - the Tunnan wasn't. The answer is yes. At least almost. I have not measured it myself, but it is just a few millimeters longer than Tarangus' Lansen. The nose is thicker than Tarangus', and I think it is a bit too thick, but I have to check references first. The belly tank has correct shape - which Tarangus don't have. The part behind the cockpit has wrong shape while Tarangus have captured it better. This will be pretty tricky to adjust. On the other hand, the gun openings are better than Tarangus'. Surface detailing looks pretty good, although there seems to be a bit too much rivets since they are almost along every panel line. But panel lines look correct and are fine and crisp. The small air outlet needs to be opened, otherwise it will look weird, it is too big to just be painted black. The rear part differs a lot from Tarangus J 32, but the truth is somewhere between the both. Hobbyboss has a better shape of the "cut" at the exhaust, but the part above it is far too long. Cockpit looks like a Lansen cockpit, but almost nothing is spot on. But for most builders it is good enough. However it is larger than Tarangus - and i think that Tarangus is right. Lansen is a wide aircraft since it was designed for a Swedish-designed engine that never was used. The license-built RM 6A was not as wide as the one that was intended, which resulted in a very wide aircraft. Hobbyboss seems to have made a cockpit that fills the whole space - which the original one didn't. Next sprue: Not much to say here. The engine part is very basic. but not much will be seen anyway. Ejection seats are like the cockpit - at a first glance they look correct, but they aren't. They are far too large and shape is incorrect. But for most builders they are enough. Hobbyboss have included air brakes - Tarangus didn't - and this is really great since they always were extended on a parked aircraft. It is a pity that they are far too small, they are almost in 1/72... Wings look great, size and shape is correct and it is a good idea to integrate the mail wheel well. However it is a bit more difficult for super-detailers, since the real thing had no "walls". But for most builders this is an excellent solution. Wingtip lights and elevons are separate parts (not on Tarangus). Underwing stores are included for a J 32E, something that Tarangus have not. Clear parts are fine and crisp and looks correct. The windscreen wiper is a separate part - well done! A small photo-etch sheet is included with parts for the far-too-small air brakes. Finally the joke of this box: The decals. Wrong typeface, wrong colours, "hand-written" stencils and more. These are completely useless and will destroy even a perfect built and painted model. The only place for these is the dustbin. So what is the conclusion of this first impression? Well, it looks as if this model can be built into a decent model of a Lansen. It is probably much simpler to build than Tarangus release. However, the errors in shape and simplified construction makes it difficult to build into a perfect replica. If you just want a Lansen, this could be a good choice. But if you want to build a perfect Lansen, Tarangus is still the only one. Price is lower than Tarangus, 43.99 GBP vs 64.99 GBP for Tarangus at Hannants. However, bear in mind that you have to find aftermarket decals (Tarangus release has absolutely brilliant decals), and - I also would recommend - aftermarket air brakes. Air brakes are necessary for Tarangus as well, but the difference in decal quality makes the price difference smaller. And now: Let's start the build!
  11. Here is my build of Hobbyboss new Saab J 32E Lansen. A kit with its errors, but that was far better than I expected. I have tried to capture the blue/green Swedish AF camouflage (also featured on Draken), where the blue turned almost turquoise. This Lansen was one of the last flying in regular service. It was modified for electronic warfare and flew until 1998. Here is ther WIP thread. But in brief: This is not a bad kit at all. Of course (remember that this is Hobbyboss), there are a number of pretty obvious errors. Most of them can however be fixed rather easily. But overall shape is good - it really looks like a Lansen, panel lines are great, and (almost) correct everywhere. Here is a short list of things that have to be corrected: -Nose shape is a bit wrong, but can be improved through sanding and by moving the nose cone panel line about 3 millimeters forward. -The part above the exhaust is far too long and too thick. This can be fixed easily in a way that makes 95% of all viewers to think that it is OK, but demands extreme surgery to fix perfectly., -Lansen had only one pitot tube, the kit supplies two. -The shape of the air intakes is a little wrong, but this can be adjusted to 95% perfection with a knife and some sanding There is something strange with the canopy. It just doesn't look right when it is closed, I think it is a bit too rounded and that the front part is a bit too long. Therefore, I decided to display it with open canopy, which demanded some extra cockpit detailing. The rear instrument panel is wrong for the E version (and actually, for other versions too...) and had to be replaced by a scratch-built one. In fact, cockpit is far too large(!) But if you can live with that, it still is very similar to a Lansen cockpit. Air brakes are included - great! It is a pity that they are too small and with a slightly wrong shape... I used Maestro Models air brakes instead. The electronic warfare pods are almost correct. When overall shape have its errors, details are often great. I added some details in the wheel wells: The kit also has some errors that are more difficult to fix: -The area on both sides of the front part of the fin (above and in front of the stabilizers) has wrong shape. -Wingtips (also on stabilizers) have a slightly wrong-shaped angle -The rear part of chaff dispensers should be a bit thicker than the rest of the pod. -The part behind the cockpit has wrong shape, the rear part of it should be wider (and not drip-shaped) -Decals are crap, and also wrong for a J 32E (The actual aircraft was a J 32B, but is preserved in flying condition after being modified as a E - or maybe a D target tow . Still, it never flew in these markings as a J 32E.). I used Maestro Models decals instead. If you want to have a Lansen in your collection, this can be a kit for you. If you want to build a perfect Lansen, avoid this one and turn to Tarangus instead. However, this one is much easier to build, fit is great, and most of the time it was a really enjoyable build. Thanks for watching!
  12. Heller Lansen kit with the fighter conversion from Maestro Hobby. The target towing equipment is scratch built. The target tugs started out with the day glo checker pattern but it changed later. So I have to build an second one. Building of it: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235007648-saab-j-32b-lansen-target-tug/
  13. So the Heller-Matchbox 1/72 combo is ready. A target towing plane from the Swedish A.F. The two targets are scratch built. and the plane was converted. More about the build here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235007520-saab-j-29f-tunnan-target-tower/
  14. Here is another build of this great little kit: Most is OOB. I sanded down the fabric texture on the fin, which is almost impossible to see on a real aircraft (I saw one live just a few days ago). I also added the small "lips" above and under the exhausts and re-shaped the fairing in front of them. Other issues are well-known before, assembling the wings means some difficulties since the leading and trailing edges are moulded integrally with the top. This means a pretty difficult join along the flaps ans wingtips - dont get fooled by the instruction sheet that shows this as if there were panel lines there. The booms were also a little difficult to attach, but with some sanding and patience this meant no problems. '' Main landing gears are delicate and are attached with extremely small pins, you have to be careful, but with a little patience I got everything right. The green is Gunze 309 which i almost spot-on the Swedish olive green of the 1940s and early 1950s, later i became a bit darker. The blue-gray is Gunze 307 with a little Tamiya Ocean Grey. ' I used the PE parts for the windows. A bit tricky, but I managed to get it tight at last. Actually, I made it twice on the top window since I put it inside out the first time... Rest of cockpit is OOB, I just added some instrument decals. Canopy has a great fit and it is no problem to leave it until the rest of the model is finished. The side windows can also be attached after painting, which makes masking and painting pretty easy. I wanted to make an aircraft of F 9 wing, Gothenburg using the "Bonzo" dog decal from Flying Colors "Swedish Warriors"-sheet. I also used the roundels from this sheet. Rest of decals are from the excellent sheet in the box apart from the blue L which came from my decal spares box. Apart from the small issues mentiones avove, this is really a great little kit. Details are amazing and fit is mostly good. The whole build took just about three weeks - and I definitely did lots of other things than model building during these weeks.
  15. This one may look strange, but the camouflage and colours are actually correct! The first Drakens were delivered in bare aluminium, but in 1961, Swedish Air Force painted a number of Drakens, Lansens and Tunnans in different patterns of green and blue, to find a substitute for the traditional Swedish camouflage in green with blue-grey undersides. One was even painted blue with green stripes! Someone might remember this ones from the old Revell boxart: Since this was the first production version, J 35A, a few modifications had to be made. One of them was a slightly different seat (the "normal" seat to the right). J 35A-C had shorter air intakes, so the long Hasegawa ones were replaced with short ones from Maestro Models: The nose also had to be a bit sharpened due to that early Drakens lacked radar. Scratch-built FOD covers were added to add interest. Also note the different fin tip on the pictures above (from Maestro Models) and that the radome was grey, not black. The lack of radar also made the instrument panel quite different (this one also came from Maestro Models). The pattern was more simple than on later Drakens... ...and the underside was painted quite a different - and nice - way: A few additions were made to the landing gears. For instance, different wheel sides on the main wheels (also from Maestro Models). Thanks for looking!
  16. Finally, I have managed to finish this project that I started almost three years ago. For years I have wanted to build one of the last Drakens in Swedish service, especially those which were not painted grey but kept the old blue/olive drab camouflage even after the J modification - apart from the nose and exhaust cone that were re-painted. In fact, this individual, 10-52, was the last camouflaged Draken to fly. I have used Aires cockpit and wheel bay set, Aires exhaust and plenty of photo-etch from Eduard, including the ladder. Plus pitot tube from Master and some scratched details. WIP thread here. Weathering was made with lots of techniques; Salt, multiple layer painting in slightly different colours followed by sanding, pre- and post-shading, dry pastels and dry-brushing. The decals are a mix from Hasegawas, Flying Colors' roundels, RBD Decals, Eurodecals and my spares box. I have tons of Draken decals... You might think that it is over-weathered. It is not. These were really weathered and dirty, especially the underside. Thanks for watching!
  17. I started this build a few years ago, and progress has been extremely slow. My ambition is to build Draken number F 10-52, the last blue/green Draken in Swedish AF. Most of the airframe is really weathered, apart from the nose section and the exhaust cone which were modified and re-painted when J 35F became J 35J. Most of the modified Drakens were painted grey, but a few remained blue Airliners.net image removed Solo's great work on this individual gave me inspiration to start again, I am using Aires resin cockpit, exhaust and wheel wells, and parts of Eduard's exterior photo etch (but not all, I started with the Big Ed PE set on another Draken, but almost went mad... But first, the cockpit. Seatbelts are still missing, but the rest is finished. ...and suddenly the whole model was finished and ready for painting! I started with the extremely dirty underside: And then the upper side. In the beginning, Drakens were olive drab and dark blue. However, after a while the blue turned lighter and also a bit green. After 10-20 years the green almost turned turquise. So after priming with Tamiya aluminum, I started with some pre-shading and then a thin layer of the blue: After that, I added spots of thinned light grey and black: And after that, some salt... Almost finished... After that, I painted the olive drab in almost the same way.
  18. This year, Tarangus released their fourth kit, the Saab Safir, and for the first time we could build a model of this classic Swedish trainer in 1/48. I built mine as a four-seater from F 11 wing, about 1977. Maestro Models' forthcoming decals for those camouflaged Safirs are not released yet, so I had to find decals in my spare decals box. The model is small, but sometimes a bit tricky to build. The main problem is the canopy. The fit is pretty bad, and lots of sanding and mofdifications were necessary. The other problems are mostly due to poor instructions that leaves you with a few un-answered questions, especially the correct position of the nose gear wheel well (that first should be mounted to the cockpit part) and the engine (that first should be mounted to one of the body halves, the problem is to find an exact fit with the nose part). The fit of the wing is also a little difficult. But apart from this, this is a great little kit. The overall shapes are very good, the fit, except for what I have already mentioned, is good and the cockpit has lots of nice details. The panel lines are fine and crisp and decals (although I did not use them) are well printed. Don't forget to put lots of nose weight, otherwise this is a true tail sitter! I replaced the position lights with clear ones, added new pitot tubes and seatbelts, the rest is OOB. I used Gunze colours, and the day-glow panels were painted too. I considered using decals, but decided to paint them. A nice little kit that represents a classic Swedish aircraft. The factory designation was "Saab 91". "Saab 92" was a car... :-)
  19. The "Vampire over the Northern skies" edition built as a Swedish J 28B from F 11 wing. Built mostly OOB apart from the intakes that were slightly modified. Since they are corrected in the F.3 version, this would be a better model for a Swedish one, but was not available when I started this build. Some decals were replaced, the national insignias were too dark blue, and the griffin at the nose that should be on a gold background, not yellow. A nice kit, fit is good and the panel lines are not too obvious - although they of course are too visible since they are almost invisible on the real thing. An enjoyable and pretty easy build, a model that i definitely recommended for all us twin-boom lovers! :-)
  20. For Swedish modeller, the announcement of AZ Models Tunnan was one of the best news ever. But if the happiness of the announcement was great, the sadness when it was finally released, was even greater. You do not have to be an expert on this Swedish jet Icon to see that the aircraft AZ released, was something completely different from the beautiful flying barrel of Sweden. Anyway, I bought it, hoping that someone would release a conversion in the future. Maestro also did, but this was just an expensive way to create a Tunnan that was just slightly better than AZ's original try. Recently AZ announced that a new, revised Tunnan will be released. So what should I do with my old one? Well, build it of course. This is the original AZ model: Many pointed out the nose as the problem. In my eyes however, the main problem is the oversized canopy. So I started the build to sand it down. I also made the cockpit opening larger. The picture below shows approximately where i cut/sanded. The yellow and orange lines are mine (don't bother about the other). After lots of sanding, it looked like this.
  21. Here is a rather odd Lancaster! Sweden bought one ex-RAF Lanc in 1951 as a testbed for Swedish jet engines planned for Saab Lansen and Draken. This aircraft was designated Tp 80 and flew a great number of test flights 1951-56. However, the engine project was abandoned and instead, it was used for test of afterburners. Sadly, it was lost in a crash in 1956. I used Revell's model (Airfix' was not released when this project started) and a conversion set from Top Gun. I also added some details to the Merlin engine. The Top Gun set was far from good. Poor fitting and lots of small holes in the plastic. I used Tamiya Colours and Vallejo aluminium. Decals came from my own archive. Another oddity is the twin tail wheel, which also is placed behind the location of the original one. The underside of the original had to be strengthened because of the jet engine. The rest is OOB, apart from some invisible extra detailing in the wheel bays... I kept the weathering to a minimum, since this aircraft seemed to have been rather well maintained. A few years after the delivery, it was stripped from colour - but this scheme was more interesting than a simple bare metal finish. A last picture. I hope you like this rare-seen Lanc!
  22. In 1951 Sweden bought one Lancaster to use as a testbed for Swedish jet engines. The Aircraft was designated Tp 80 and flew lots of test flights until it was sadly lost in a crash in 1956. The model is Revell's using a conversion set from Polish company Top Gun. This set is far from Aires or Eduard standards, so using it meant lots of sanding and filler. I also decided to show one of the Merlins, that got some extra detailing.
  23. Finally I have finished this project, that I started three years ago. Today, most people who build Lansens would choose Tarangus' new 1/48 kit. But fools like me are still building this, more than thirty years old, 1/72 kit. I have used Maestro Models' photo-etched airbrakes, interior detalils, air brakes and ladder, plus Maestro's canopy and resin belly tank. The decals (apart from the "39") are RBD Decals' excellent decals. A new wheel well was scratch-built. I also made new panel lines and a few other modifications. I painted it with Gunze acrylics and used dry pastels for weathering, along with some chipping. This was one of the last Recce-Lansens in the Swedish Air Force, operating from F 11 wing, Nylöping about 1977. Perhaps an odd subject on this forum. But a beautiful aircraft that was used in Swedish Air Force for more than 40 years.
  24. As you might guess from my profile picture, Saab Draken is my favourite subject. Here is my latest build of thus winderful aircraft. My intention was to build the individual that is shown on Roy Cross' magnificent Airfix boxart (a model which I built lots of when I was a child), but doing it in 1/48 and with correct markings. Though very beautiful, this image has a number of mistakes - also apart from the fact that green Swedish robots are blind... And here is the result. I wanted it to look like it did in the early 70s, when it was rather new - which meant not much weathering this time. I used the decals from Hasegawa's S 35E Draken and Tarangus' Lansen (the yellow squares), and a few from my decal archive. I uses an Aires resin seat - which was a bit troublesome since it didn't fit Hasegawa's cockpit. Strange, since it is sold separately, not only with Aires cockpit set. As you can see, the original had fewer squares than on Cross' boxart. I used Gunze colours. I also added some details on the landing gears. And a final, a bit too dark picture:
  25. This one was recently reviewed at Britmodeller (excellent review btw!). And here is a finished build with markings from F 13 wing, Norrköping, Sweden, late fifties: Being a short-run kit, this is really excellent. Great fit, almost no filler at all was needed and fine, recessed panel lines. And remembering the poor AZ Model kit in 1/48, I am happy to say that the shape is correct. Nothing bad? Well, the resin seat could have been better detailed, especially the back side. The panel behind the seat is also missing, but is easily made from plasticard. The resin wheel bays is a bit tricky to get in the right place - which is important if you don't want a leaning model... The price can be regarded as a bit high. However, the decals are brilliant. So no after-market decals are needed which means that you can get a great model OOB. If you like old jets, I can really recommend this one!
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