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  1. LvKv 90 Anti-Air Vehicle (84507) 1:35 HobbyBoss via Creative Models Ltd. Based upon the original Combat Vehicle 90 (CV90), this anti-aircraft light tank uses the same chassis with a 40mm Bofors autocannon in a new turret, which is guided by a Thales radar unit perched on top of the turret in a cylindrical housing. LvKv stands for Luftvärnskanonvagn, which translates to self-propelled anti-aircraft weapon, with the 90 representing the decade of its birth. It can fire programmable proximity-fused fragmentation or armour piercing rounds, which coupled with the complex computer algorithms used in targeting, calculating velocity and direction of the target, speed of rounds, ballistic drop make for a highly accurate weapon that will put the fear of immediate perforation in any passing enemy that lingers in range (up to 14km) for more than a couple of seconds. It can also track up to six targets at once, far beyond that of any mere human and a useful force multiplier. Although it isn’t strictly speaking a frontline vehicle, it is well-enough armoured to withstand armour piercing rounds from most APCs to its frontal armour, and small arms fire from the back and sides. It is also a connected fighting vehicle, benefitting from and contributing to a better overall situational awareness of their forces that is an incredibly useful tool in battle that all modern forces aspire to have. It gets around the battlefield thanks to a Scania 550hp diesel engine that drives the tracks and also act as propulsion in water with the fitment of a flotation kit that gives it greater all-terrain capability. The Kit Based upon their initial 2012 release of the CV90-40C, but without all the appliqué armour of the IFV, and with a new turret gun and radar “pot”. In its splinter camouflage it is an attractive design, and from the box it is well-detailed throughout with individual link tracks and separate track-pads. From the standard Hobby Boss box come fourteen sprues and three hull and turret parts in sand-coloured styrene, four sprues of track-pads in black, thirty trees of track-links in a metallic grey, a small clear sprue, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) parts, a sheet of decals, and the instruction booklet with separate painting guide. In an unusual turn of events, construction begins with the vehicle’s rear hatches, which are festooned with styrene and PE parts before completion. Then the more predictable make-up of the four-part drive sprockets (x2), four-part road wheel pairs (x14), and two-part idler wheels, which are set aside until after the lower hull and its swing-arm suspension is finished off. The rear hatch made earlier is added to the stepped underside, clear lights are slotted inside the sloped front of the upper hull, and a number of PE parts are added around them next to the front fenders. Now you can add all those wheels, then make up the tracks. Each side uses 82 links comprising two parts, with two sprue gates on the pads, and three on the metallic-coloured links, all of which is sensibly placed and easy to clean up. It took a few minutes to make up the example section of 6 links for the review, and you can even leave off the pads until after painting the tracks if you are modelling it clean, scuffing the pads with a sanding stick before you glue them in for a bit of realism. With the hull joined, a number of pioneer tools are attached to the rear along with pre-moulded towing cables that are supplied with PE tie-downs, with styrene grab-handles on the glacis and a nicely detailed driver’s hatch added. At the rear is an access hatch for the engine, and on the sides a pair of skirts are fixed to blocks on the hull sides. More PE and clear parts are fitted on the rear bulkhead, with a number of PE grilles added to the deck and a trio of aerials at the very rear. The Bofors cannon is a simple affair, made up from a four-part mount and a barrel with concertina recoil bag at its base, split horizontally with a single piece flared muzzle fitted last. The barrel is slipped through the turret from the inside and is trapped in place by the cut-outs as the lower turret is glued in place. It should remain mobile if you don’t drown the joint in glue. With that the turret is detailed with a stowage bustle, more stowage on the sides, smoke grenade launchers, hatches, grab-handles and lots of little PE camo-tie-down parts that are shown in detail in a larger scrap diagram on the same page. The turret is finished off with a sighting box in front of the gunner’s position, the big radar pot, spare track-links and a shrouded barrel of the coax machine gun. The turret twists into position and is held in place by the bayonet lugs on the side of the turret ring. Markings As is often the case with HB kits, there’s only one decal option supplied with precious little background information, and that’s for a splinter camouflaged vehicle with yellow number 143030. The decals included in the kit are minimal, as befits an armour kit, and they have good enough registration, colour density and sharpness for the task in hand. Conclusion I like anything with the Swedish splinter, and this futuristic-looking vehicle looks great in the box, and once complete it will have provided plenty of modelling enjoyment, as well as breaking up the standard green of our shelves. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Hi All, I have just posted the final pictures of my 1/48 Special Hobby (Tarangus) Saab Viggen in the Nordic Group build so I thought I'd share them here as well for the non-group builders. This is the original boxing with no resin additions, only the sidwinders are extra. The RB04 anti ship missiles are converted Hunter drop tanks using plastic card and sprue. Decals are aftermarket items. Hope you enjoyed the pictures. More views on the WIP thread. here Colins Saab Viggen WIP The modelling has been helped a lot by our Nordic members contributing their detailed knowledge to this and many other builds. Cheers Colin W
  3. Hi there. Just finished another swedish jet a few days ago. It´s a conversion from Hasegawas J35F to a S35E using a lot of Maestro Models nice stuff. I used etched parts for the cockpit, a new nose and extra fuel tanks, a KB pod, the RWR pods under the wings and the complete tailcone. From Pavla came a new vacu formed canopy, from Pilot Replicas the pilot and from Hasegawa the ground crew member. The ladder is also an etches part from Maestro. Daniel
  4. Hi guys. I want to show you my latest finished build. It´s the Special Hobby Do 27 in 1:72 scale, a realy nice and well made kit. My modell shows the swedish version, Fpl 53, a Do 27A-4. Sweden got five Fpl 53 delivered in 1962. Three of them were lost in accidents, the remaining two were retired in 1991. The fitting of the kit is nearly perfect and the details are very nice. I only added the seatbelts and some foil for the cabin lagging. The steps from the kit, the exhaust pipes and some antennas were also replaced. The modell is painted with Gunze H309, decals came from different aftermarket sheets. I hope you like the little Swede. Daniel
  5. Hi guys. I want to sho you some pics of my recent project, the EE Canberra T.Mk.11 from AMP. The kit is based on the S&M Models Canberra, AMP added some etched parts and two different noses for this version. I will build one of the two possible swedish aircrafts. Like most aircraft builds it starts with the cockpit. It´s niceley detailed and the seat from the box are okay too. The clear part fitts not very well, I think it´s my fault, dry fitting was not so bad. First nose test, I think i will build 8-02 with the round one and the dayglow markings at its fin. Cheers Daniel
  6. I got a Heller SAAB J 21A out from the stash. I decide to try another approach attaching wings to the fuselage. The wings are three parts, one large bottom and two parts for the top so I started by building them together as I always done before. But when I got to the fuselage I only glued the part in front of the cockpit and let it set. Then I glued the fuselage to the wing assembly leaving the rear of the fuselage unglued. This way I could press the fuselage out to the wings leaving no gap to be filled. When the glue had set I glued the top of the rear fuselage together. Now I had to add a small wedge of plastic card under the rear fuselage but I find this easier to sand after I add filler to it than to fill and sand a fuselage-wing joint. I have made holes in the front of the booms for landing lights. With the booms still off I can build landing light inserts an mount them from behind. I have also made a hole on the left wing for a new pitot tube. I am building a late version and the tube was moved from the right wing to the left. I managed to break of the gun in the nose an while looking at pictures I noticed that the gun isn't mounted exactly in the centre so I'll fix that when I build a new gun. I sanded away the structure on the aileron's as I'm building one with ailerons made of metal. A bomb pylon is built using a F-18 pylon as a base and wing tip tanks leftover from the Broplan J 21R conversion set. The air intake on the fuselage side has been drilled out a bit .Guns are replaced with brass tubing. I had to add some filler to the boom/wing joint but the big problem with this kit is to build the canopy trying to fit the parts together. I have added some rocket mounts that was leftover from a Special Hobby J 21R. I found an easy way to fill the landing light holes to get something to glue the lights to. My first thought was to add some plastic card but to get it in the right shape and size would be tricky and then to get it in place. Instead I inserted a ball of Magic Sculp (two component clay) from behind. Then I sanded a piece of sprue to a square shape that fits the hole and pressed the clay back so I get some space and a flat surface for the light. I also found some left over seat belts from a Lansen build that I used. Not correct but hardly visible.
  7. In 2012 I started on these: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234931616-a-pair-of-dc-9/ and finally I have finished them. SAS DC-9-20 I used LN-decals for it. They were hard and a bit brittle, I don't know if they are old. I have had them for some time now. Finnair DC-9-50. TwoSix decals was used on this one. They were soft and flexible but a little bit on the thick side.
  8. I have managed to finish some old kits this summer. Boeing 727-200 A rather quick build. Less than two month. Decals from 26 decals. Well not a Swedish plane but Denmark is close enough. I have wanted a Sterling 727 since the 1970's and finally I have one. The Caravelle's wasn't as fast to build. I thing that I started on them around 2006. Decals from F-DCAL But I should have bought new engines for it but I didn't want to dig in to references so I built it out of the box. Not a Swedish plane but it says SAS on the side. Good enough for me. I think these decals came from F-DCAL as well. Thai Airways International was founded in 1960 as a joint venture between Thailand's domestic carrier, Thai Airways Company (TAC) and Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) In 1977 the Thai Government bought out SAS and THAI became fully owned by the Thai government. I had built this Air France plane back in 2006 and after I had finished it I found decals for SAS and Thai so I had to buy more kits. Built straight out of the box with the decals supplied in the kit.
  9. I had a Minitunnan going: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235024842-scrambled-eggs/ It has been finished. I decided to cut the front of the Tunnan canopy and combine it with the Lancaster radom. Decals are from a Revell issue of the Matchbox kit. I had to replace the roundels as they now was to big for this plane. I gave up on the thought of adding landing gears and put it on a Matchbox stand as I thought it looked better "flying".
  10. It's been a long time since I actually wrote something here on Britmodeller, but here I am... :-) I'm going to build the new resin kit of the Swedish Air Force fighter J 22 in 1:48 scale from Planet Models. The FFVS J 22 is probably not very well known outside of Sweden. I'm not going to tell the entire story behind this little neat looking aircraft. For those who wants to know more I can recommend this site: https://web.archive.org/web/20120213150808/http://www.hobbybokhandeln.se/j22/index.htm Back in 2008 I visited the "Spielwarenmesse" in Nuremberg. I went there with a plan to convince some of the manufacturers to produce some kits of my favourite Swedish aircraft. I had a large pile of books filled with references about the SAAB J 21, the FFVS J22 and Swedish stuff in general. I ended up with the nice people at MPM/Special Hobby who showed great interest. I donated all my books to them... I'd like to think that I'm some way involved in at least this kit I now am going to build here. :-) I'm going to start by saying that I'm sorry if my language is lacking (I'm from Sweden) and for my photos are somewhat of poor quality. I mainly use my mobile phone which has a very bad camera. I forgot to take pictures of the kit before I started to build... Here are some of the main resin components after cleanup. Although it is not apperant in this lousy photo the quality of the resin parts is excellent. The first impression is that the fit also is very good. The canopy is vacu and is very clear and you got an extra spare if you fail with the first one. The undercarriage is in white metal and you get a small etched sheet with some nice details. I mentioned a book about the J 22 earlier and it's excellent. It's "FFVS J22 - Flyghistorisk Revy" and is from around 1990. The book contains some very nice, detailed drawings. I tried to match the main parts to the drawings and the actually match perfectly! I suspect that Planet Models used this book when they designed the kit... :-) Note the matching detail on the rudders and flaps! My only complaint so far is that the detail on the rudders and flaps are a bit overstated. A few swipes with the sanding stick fixed that without any troubles. I also have the Kora FFVS J 22 which was the only J 22 in 1:48 prior to this release. The Planet Model kit is a much better kit. However I'm going to use a few pieces from Kora, for example some of the etch is better. I'm also replacing the engine with a C-47/DC-3 one from Quickboost. Not that there is much wrong with the Planet Model one but the detail is a little sharper and I got a few of those Quickboost engines very cheap at a local swap meet. Here is the Quickboost C-47/DC-3 engine with some detail from the Kora etched sheet. I know it's a bit pointless since the J 22 had a rather big spinner in front hiding most of the engine. Well, I already had the engine lying around on my bench so... Here is it after applying some paint. It will do... There were a few airbubbles in the resin at the very front of the cowling so they had to be filled. I splashed on a litte Tamiya silver spray paint to see if I suceeded in removing them. To be continued... Andreas
  11. For the 50 year anniversary of the first flight of the Viggen I built two Lansen's used in the test program. First out is a A 32A Lansen "Gamma" used for tests of the Radar and some electronics. It is a Heller 1/72 kit with "Gamma" parts from Maestro Models and decals from Moose Republic (ex. RBD decals) Next is a J 32B used for ejection seat tests. Also a Heller kit that was converted to the Fighter variant J 32B using the conversion set from Maestro Models. I had to scratch build a new canopy and the fairing behind the cockpit and also the camera pods on the wing tips. The decals are the J 32 prototype decals from Moose Republic and some of my own,
  12. I have been building Viggen prototypes The first one is the full scale wooden mock up that SAAB built before the actual prototypes. 37-0 Airfix 1/72 conversion. Next is the first prototype 37-1 Also an Airfix kit. Built with the canards pointing upward like they were initially. Second prototype 37-2 Also an Airfix kit. Canards in the normal position. The first two Viggens had green cockpits and since the Airfix kit was bare I made some paper cockpits for them. Frontal view of 37-1 and 37-2 Next is the fifth prototype, 37-5 A converted Hasegawa kit. It got the modified wings with a "sawtooth" and moved radar warning so I had to convert the wings. The first prototype after modifications. As it looked with modified wings and the raised spine in front of the fin. During spin tests it got a bit more colourful. Built from a Matchbox kit. 37800 the two seat prototype. Matchbox kit with the low fin from a Heller kit. The twin seater got an higher fin but Matchbox didn't do this correct so I decided to build the prototype in it's initial form with the lower fin.
  13. Yesterday it was 50 years since the first flight of the Viggen so I built myself another viggen to commemorate this. Heller 1/72 SAAB AJ 37 in early configuration. It means using the small twin intakes in front of the external fuel tank and the larger fin under the tail. Same as the two seater. Armament are two Rb 05 missiles and two 30mm gun pods.
  14. Ending 2016 with another Draken Since it was an US boxing from MPC I decided to build it American. I rescribed the panel lines drilled out some air intakes and tried to make the kit look a little more modern without adding any extra money into it. I have been tinkering with paper cockpits for my Viggens and decided to draw one for the Draken as well.
  15. Swedish submarines I had earlier built the HMS Gotland in 1/350 from OKB Grigorov and started a search for the other Swedish submarine that have been made as a model. That was the HMS Västergötland from Sea Wolf. The searchtook a couple of year but finally I got one. It isn't a very large kit in 1/350 scale. The finished kit. Two of the submarines in this class got modified with Stirling engines and I wanted to build one. I was lucky to find a second kit so I could start one. This conversion fought me. After all work with putty and sanding was done I managed to break it apart so I had to glue it together again and start all over. To finish it I had to make a similar propeller as on the HMS Gotland. (Plastic card and the tip of an aircraft missile) Here they are together. Gotland, Södermanland an Västergötland. Named after provinces in Sweden. (The Gotland build: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234930841-hms-gotland-finished
  16. The Hasegawa Draken is one of those kits that is just a joy to build: accurate form, good fit, great surface detailing. This one is augmented with Eduard J-35 Draken details (mainly cockpit and wheel wells) and masks. The downside with Hasegawa kits of this era are the decals: thick, with the white rendered in ivory and the Draken is no exception. I had been planning to build this as an Austrian J-35O (with an IPMS Austria decal sheet) until I picked up the Flying Colors Aerodecals J-35F/J decals. This sheet is a big improvement on the kit decals and enabled me to build this as a J-35F2 in the original Swedish camouflage colours, which look good to me. The Rb28 (Hughes AIM-4D) missiles are from a Hasegawa weapons set. I know the trailing edge control surfaces should be angled slightly down but I can live with it and I’m happy with the overall result. Chris PS The khaki green looks a lot browner in these photos than it does in real life, even though they were taken in natural light!
  17. Heller 1/72 with Maestro's fighter conversion and etch. Sadly there is no towing equipment available for the B-version. There is one for the D.version but that is a completely different winch. I started to build the Del Mar winch using Phoenix missiles cut in two different lengths. That will give me a stronger bond so that I don't brake it while sanding. The start of my Del Mar winch is at the bottom right. The rest are a MBV-2S winch with two counterweight bombs that I will use on a J 32D version sometime. With a winch one need something to tow also. The larger one is a Del Mar DF4 and the smaller a Del Mar DF14 made from various things from the spare part box and some plastic.
  18. After the Sea Fury and Meteor Target tugs it is time for a SAAB. It will be an Heller/Matchbox combo. The F-model had an after burner and that made the rear "fatter". I decided to use the Heller J 29E and add the engine fairing from the Matchbox F-model. To cut both kits exactly the same is hard so there were large gaps needed to be filled between the parts. I used plastic strips for this. I decided to use the Matchbox cockpit as well as it is more accurate. I didn't like the seat so I removed it and added the Heller seat instead. I made a new rear wall of plastic card using the Heller tub as pattern. I then added the Maestro Models etch parts to the cockpit. As they are for the Heller kit so I had to adapt them to fit. I wanted clear navigation lights at the wing tips. So clear plastic wedges was glued in place. When the glue has set the lights was sanded to the right shape. The towing equipment is in place. I used modified Airfix Draken pylons. . The MBV-2S towing winch comes from Maestro Models. The counterweight is a Matchbox tunnan drop tank that I added fins to. I have to build a red beacon light for the fuselage top. Björn
  19. Now I call it ready. It only took 10 years. It is an ex Danish AF plane operated by the Swedish firm Svensk Flygtjänst. Build:
  20. Next month this one has been sitting on the shelf for ten years. I took it out as I'm in at "Tugger mode" right now. I wasn't sure on how the masks of the canopy would react after this long time so I tried to remove it. When that worked I decided to restart on the build. When I left it I had just realised that I had made the target winch to small and received more information about the towing equipment. I started to build some of it with thin brass strips. and finished the paint job. Then I built a new winch. Much bigger than the last one. Now I'm building the rest of the towing equipment. I think that I can finish the kit this time.
  21. The Draken lost out to the Mirage III for a Swiss interceptor but here is how it might have looked in Swiss colours. I built it using pictures of the prototype for a Swiss Draken as inspiration. Since it was an early Airfix issue it had the initial canopy so that made the conversion very simple. Redo the fin into an early variant and remove the IR-sensor under the nose. I used old decals from Esci's Mirage set and Revells F-5E but they were to old to work good so I had to brush paint parts of them. Painted with the new Vallejo metal paint that worked real good but the flat clear I used made it a little more grey than I wanted.
  22. Thought I might challenge myself for my post-Wellesley build and pulled out the Matchbox Dornier 28D. Original 1984 boxing The kit iself is fairly simple so to add a bit of 'OMG why did I start this?' I thought why go for the standard Luftwaffe scheme when there's an allover white option that I can go nuts on.. SE-EDT, Swedish Red Cross, Biafra/Nigeria 1969 But...cabin internals...? Any ideas of the layout? If I can't find anything on the original (all external shots so far) I was thinking something like: The door is to the rear of the side facing seat (where the lip is), and I'll add a rack for the equipment as a rear bulkhead. Plausible? ...or madness...
  23. For Swedish modeller, the announcement of AZ Models Tunnan was one of the best news ever. But if the happiness of the announcement was great, the sadness when it was finally released, was even greater. You do not have to be an expert on this Swedish jet Icon to see that the aircraft AZ released, was something completely different from the beautiful flying barrel of Sweden. Anyway, I bought it, hoping that someone would release a conversion in the future. Maestro also did, but this was just an expensive way to create a Tunnan that was just slightly better than AZ's original try. Recently AZ announced that a new, revised Tunnan will be released. So what should I do with my old one? Well, build it of course. This is the original AZ model: Many pointed out the nose as the problem. In my eyes however, the main problem is the oversized canopy. So I started the build to sand it down. I also made the cockpit opening larger. The picture below shows approximately where i cut/sanded. The yellow and orange lines are mine (don't bother about the other). After lots of sanding, it looked like this.
  24. Here is a rather odd Lancaster! Sweden bought one ex-RAF Lanc in 1951 as a testbed for Swedish jet engines planned for Saab Lansen and Draken. This aircraft was designated Tp 80 and flew a great number of test flights 1951-56. However, the engine project was abandoned and instead, it was used for test of afterburners. Sadly, it was lost in a crash in 1956. I used Revell's model (Airfix' was not released when this project started) and a conversion set from Top Gun. I also added some details to the Merlin engine. The Top Gun set was far from good. Poor fitting and lots of small holes in the plastic. I used Tamiya Colours and Vallejo aluminium. Decals came from my own archive. Another oddity is the twin tail wheel, which also is placed behind the location of the original one. The underside of the original had to be strengthened because of the jet engine. The rest is OOB, apart from some invisible extra detailing in the wheel bays... I kept the weathering to a minimum, since this aircraft seemed to have been rather well maintained. A few years after the delivery, it was stripped from colour - but this scheme was more interesting than a simple bare metal finish. A last picture. I hope you like this rare-seen Lanc!
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