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Found 82 results

  1. U Boat Type VII C/41 Platinum Edition 1:72 Revell The Type VII submarine was based on earlier German designs. This type would go onto become the most used German submarines of WWII with over 700 being built. As with anything there would be many modifications along the way. The type started as the V11A with an initial 10 being built. The type VIIC would become the main boat of the German Navy with 568 being built between 1940 and 1945. With a range of 8500 nautical miles. The boats had 4 forward, and one stern tube in general (there were a few exceptions) with 14 torpedoes being carried. For surface running and battery charging a pair of supercharged 6 cylinder 4 stroke diesel engines were used which gave a top speed of 17.7 knots. A maximum submerged speed of 7.6 knots was possible with a new fully charged battery. The submarines generally carried a crew of 44 to 52 men in what can best be described as "cramped" conditions. For anyone familiar with the original "Das Boot" mini series U-96 was a Type VIIC. The Kit This boxing is a re-release of Revell's new tooling from 2003 which was released again in 2006. This new boxing is a Platinum edition, It contains all of the original plastic, two large sheets of photo etch, self adhesive wooden decks; and metal parts for the Periscopes (extended & retracted), snorkel mast, radar mast, nav lights, ensign staff, boom support, & gun barrels. such is the large number of these additional parts that a complete separate instruction book is provided for them. Construction begins with the torpedo tube, the modeller must decide whether to have them open or shut and then fit the respective parts into the hull sections. Once this is don't two internal bulkheads for strength are added in and the left/right hull sections can be joined. The stand can then be made up and the hull placed on it. Construction now moves to the stern and the details for the propeller shafts, propellers and supporting structure are added. Once these are on the stern planes and twin rudders can be added. Switching back to the bow, the bow planes are added along with the anchor and protective guides for the bow planes. Next the snorkel is made up, This part is moveable so care must be taken to follow the instructions if you want it to work. The snorkel is fitted into the appropriate deck section, and all the main deck sections can be added to the hull. Work now switches to the conning tower of the sub. The search and attack periscopes are made up installed into the decking along with the tower hatch, The upper tower deck and the lower one are then added into the tower superstructure. Radio masts and other item are then added in also. The deck extension for the anti aircraft gun is then added as well. The single 3.7cm flack gun can then be built up and added. Two additional twin barrelled 20mm Zwilling Anti aircraft guns are then made up and fitted to the tower decking as well. Once these are on various deck fittings, ladders and the railings are added. Finally the ensign staff can be added. The coning tower can then be added to the main hull. Thread is provided for the one forward and to aft wires from the conning tower along with the blocks for securing it. The hull is then finished of with a variety of smaller fittings. Platinum Edition As mentioned this is Revell's Platinum Edition which features two large sheets of photo etch, self adhesive wooden decks; and metal parts for the Periscopes (extended & retracted), snorkel mast, radar mast, nav lights, ensign staff, boom support, & gun barrels. such is the large number of these additional parts that a complete separate instruction book is provided for them and this must be read in conjunction with the main booklet. As expected there are many parts here and I suspect not for the beginner. The many fittings which will replace moulded on detail will look good on the model. The guns also benefit from many detail parts and metal barrels. All the railing will look much better in etch rather than plastic. Markings There are decals for U 997, U 995, U 295, U 324, U 307, U 1023, U 1002, U 1105 included on the sheet with diagrams to show the different paint schemes on individual boats as well as small histories of them. Conclusion It's good to see this kit re-issued as it makes up into an impressive model. The addition of the platinum parts should make a big difference over the kit plastic. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  2. Royal Navy R Class Submarine (700121) 1:700 OKB Grigorov The R Class submarines were a class of 12 small submarines built for the Royal Navy during WWI. They had a hull designed for underwater performance and combined with diesel-electric propulsion gave a submerged speed of 14 knots, Streamlining of the vessel had some disadvantages in that they were hard to control on the surface and submerged. Technology at the time meant the battery took a full day to charge from the engine, but only an hour to drain at full speed! charging more often than not being done while moored. The vessels were armed with 6 tubes with the smaller 18" diameter. These would later be changed to normal 21". The kit The models (as there are 4 in box) arrive in the standard small sturdy cardboard box with a picture of one of the class underway. The models are 70mm long each, there are two small sets of resin and 4 small PE frets. The first model can depict either R1 or R2. The second model either R3 or R4. The third model is for R10 only, and the forth for R12 only. Conclusion This is another great little model of a British submarine. Recommended if you want something a bit different for your 1/700 submarine collection. Many thanks to OKB Grigorov for supplying the review sample.
  3. Itailian Enrico Toti Class Submarine (700116) 1:700 OKB Grigorov The Enrico Toti Class submarine was a class of 4 coastal submarines built for the Italian Navy in the 1960s. They are named after the 1920s Enrico Toti which was a Balilla Class Submarine, paying homage to Enrico Toti a WWI hero from Italy. These submarines were the first designed and built in Italy since WWII. They are comparable to the German type 205 boats. They were 46m long with a displacement of 535 tonnes. The kit The model arrives in the standard small sturdy cardboard box with a picture of one of the class moored alongside. The model is 65mm long. There are a couple of rein parts, PE Propeller and PE stand which has been used as the resin casting block came away on this example. Conclusion This is another great little model of a less well know submarine. Recommended if you want something a bit different for your 1/700 submarine collection. Many thanks to OKB Grigorov for supplying the review sample.
  4. Israeli Gal Class Submarine (700119) 1:700 OKB Grigorov The Gal Class submarine (or Type 540) is a modified version of the German HDW Type 206 Submarine. These boats which feature a districting bow dome were built to Israeli specifications by the then Vickers Shipyard in Barrow-In-Furness, in the UK. These were the first submarines built for the Israeli Navy to their own specifications, Politics dictating their being built in the UK rather than Germany. They were only 45m in length displacing 420 tonnes. At one point these Submarines were equipped with a retractable Blowpipe SAM system controlled from with the boat. 3 Vessels were built and all have now been decommissioned and replaced by the Dolphin Class. The kit The model arrives in the standard small sturdy cardboard box with a picture of one of the class underway. The model is 60mm long and there is a small PE Fret with the stand, and aneven smaller one with the propeller on it. Conclusion This is another great little model of a less well know submarine. Recommended if you want something a bit different for your 1/700 submarine collection. Many thanks to OKB Grigorov for supplying the review sample.
  5. Iranian Ghadir Class Submarine (700123) 1:700 OKB Grigorov The Ghadir class submarines are more of a midget submarine suited to coastal waters, they are only 29m long with a displacement of 117 tonnes with a crew of 18. These submarines are based on North Korean Yono Class. It is thought they have a pair of normal 21"/530mm torpedo tubes, and could also fire the VA-111 rocket torpedo. There are currently 23 in the Iranian Navy though details can be hard to pick out from the Propaganda surrounding any Iranian weapons system. The kit The models as there are two in the box arrive in the standard small sturdy cardboard box with a picture of one of the class moored underway. There is also a small PE fret for each boat, these provide a cradle and others parts including the prop for the sub. The model is 40mm long. Conclusion This is another great little model of a less well know submarine. Recommended if you want something a bit different for your 1/700 submarine collection. Many thanks to OKB Grigorov for supplying the review sample.
  6. HMS Oberon Class Submarine Modernised (700052) 1:700 OKB Grigorov The 295.2 feet (90.0 m) long Oberon class (Or more commonly in the RN O Boats) were based heavily on the preceding Porpoise class of submarines, which were in service from 1956 to 1988. Changes from the Porpoise design were primarily to improve the strength and stealth of the submarine. Instead of UXW steel, the hull was built from QT28 steel, which was easier to fabricate and stronger, allowing the submarine to dive deeper. Glass-reinforced plastic was used in construction of the casing. The sonar, and radar systems were also upgraded to the latest standard. The submarines were equipped with a Type 1002 surface search and navigation radar, Type 187 Active-Passive attack sonar, and Type 2007 long range passive sonar. The Oberons were constructed at a variety of shipyards in the United Kingdom: the six Australian and two Chilean submarines by Scotts Shipbuilding and Engineering Company; the three Brazilian submarines by Vickers-Armstrongs; and the three Canadian submarines at Chatham Dockyard. Construction of the British submarines was shared amongst four dockyards: the three mentioned above and Cammell Laird. They were originally armed with eight 21-inch (533.4 mm) torpedo tubes: six tubes in the bow, and two short tubes for anti-submarine defence in the stern. The submarine normally carried a payload of 20 torpedoes for the forward tubes; a mix of Mark 24 Tigerfish and Mark 8 torpedoes, while only the two pre-loaded torpedoes were carried for the stern tubes. Naval mines could be carried instead of torpedoes: the forward torpedo payload would be replaced with up to 50 Mark 5 Stonefish or Mark 6 Sea Urchin mines. Like may vessels these were all modernised during their lifetimes and the class had good longevity due to it remaining a very quiet vessel. The kit The model arrives in the standard small sturdy cardboard box with a picture of one of the class underway. The model, as stated on the box is 129mm long. Inside, beneath the small instruction sheet, the parts are well protected in the companies usual manner with the main, one piece full hull is in a poly sponge wrapper within a bubblewrap cocoon with the other parts, both resin and etch. The six resin parts include the propeller shafts, fore and aft diveplanes, plus the propeller bosses. Etched parts are provided for the propellers, the propeller shaft support brackets and display stand. Detail is very nice and fine with the possible exception of the deck hatches which, as in their other kits are a little deep, but should look ok with a coat or two of paint. Construction is pretty simple, just attach the diveplanes to their relative positions, fold the prop shaft “A” frames and glue into position with the shafts. The propeller blades need to be twisted to shape and glued onto the end of the shafts, and then attach the bosses to the centre of each propeller. There are no painting guides, so research will need to be carried out to assess the correct colours. Conclusion This is another great little model of a British submarine, always a good thing to see, as there are too few of them about. I can easily recommend this to all submarine modellers. Even if you don’t normally build in 1:700, buy one, you never know, it may lead to one in 1:350 being released. Many thanks to OKB Grigorov for supplying the review sample.
  7. This one has been in my stash since its original release back in 2013, and I admit to spending nearly 2 weeks trying to find it. This is the 2013 Pegasus Hobbies 'Artists Collection by Greg deSantis' conceptional release of Jules Verne's 'The Nautilus' moulded in a beautiful grey polystyrene plastic (main submarine kit) and grey vinyl (Squid, name disk and base). Prior to assembly, I primed the sprues down in Halfords Red/brown primer as a rusty base coat to work up from. I have not bothered with Para Graphix's additional photo-etch set as it does not really have enough on it to warrant the additional cost vs what you will actually see of it from outside looking in. I have enough spare bulbs and wire to produce my own internal lighting set and have put together a rather complicated lighting rig, only to later find out that what I have produced is actually available as a 3rd party lighting kit - again not worth the additional cost when you already have the necessary parts. I'll feed the power from the battery up to the sub along one of the Squids tentacles. It's a kit so of course it has its issues and niggles, but don't be put off by any online review negativities. Modellers overcome issues and this kit has few; so far I give the kit a well earned 99% for fit and well thought out assembly process. I have made a point of not using other online build references to aid in my own, I want this to be my own unique attempt. I've ordered a glass reptile type eye to replace the kit's squid eye and hope to present this on a miniature ocean floor diorama using the kits squid base and a backdrop of seabed ledges. The library windows - the kit provides a comprehensive mask set The side observation window lights fitted The side observation ribs - masked with Maskol Painted black inside to keep them light tight The lounge lighting You wont be able to see enough even when lit, so conventional dressed 1/144 figures were used as opposed to worrying about dressing them down to Victorian standards I used a defusing matt plastic to defuse the side and overhead LED lighting The organ pipes were added using 0.5mm plastic pipe Upper deck now fitted and side observation ribs fitted - here she is upside down
  8. Trumpeter are releasing a very exciting item later this year: A massive 1/48 German WWII U-Boat Type VIIC U-552 Kit! Included with this model will be a transparent Starboard side to display all the interior detailing, and 48 submariner figures! With over 1100 parts this models is sure to get enthusiasts talking. Pre orders will be open sometime in the next few weeks, so watch this space! For full details, please see our newsletter.
  9. A quick conversion from the 1/350 HMS Trafalgar from Airfix. I tried to use oil colours for some variation in the paint work but I feel I don't work in this small scale. I don't like the stand in the kit. I have to do something about it. Time to go back to my Trafalgar and the boring job of masking. Build pics: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235050191-another-1350-hms-swiftsure/
  10. I have thought of building an URF (UbåtsRäddningsFarkost) or Submarine Rescue Vessel used by the Swedish navy. It would probably be easiest to build it from scratch but I find it mentally easier to start from something with similar basic shapes. I looked at the drop tank from a 1/72 Italeri SAAB Gripen and found that I could use it. It was to flat so I had to add some plastic strips between the halves. I then cut it and used the front part. I filled it with Magic Sculp and also reshaped one side for less rounded corners. This has now became the tail so I started to build a new nose from Magic Sculp. The basic shape is getting there. More Magic Sculp building and a piece of plastic tube added to the bottom. a maritime match stick for size. It comes from a Cunard ship Next will be the fins
  11. Inspired by some builds here I bought another Trafalgar that had been started and with some parts for the rudders missing. I started by shortening it, cut down the height of the rudder and adding a second outlet. I tried to get some life in the all dark grey hull. This was a rather quick build. Finished kit: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235050193-hms-swiftsure-finished/
  12. Finished out of the box. The only thing that I disliked about it was the lack of instructions for decal placement. There were two small pictures on the side of the box. One partly hidden by a sticker. I have a couple of other submarines going on right now. I'll be back when they are finished.
  13. Here I present my latest build, an OOB build of a Vanguard Class SSBN using the Bronco kit. The only bit of work needed was the mating of the hull halves. Primed using Halford's grey primer, German tank grey for lower hull and Halford's satin black was used overall. The sub was 'Kleared', decaled and coated with Tamiya satin varnish. Das Boot was masked to leave the deck exposed, with VERY low tac masking over the two decals and painted with Humbrol matt black and the sonar array was glossed with Klear. Five masts were fitted into fin and a couple of Tamiya figures were added to complete build. WIP here: Stuart
  14. * "ORP Sokół (Polish: Falcon) was a U-class submarine (formerly HMS Urchin) built by Vickers-Armstrong at Barrow-in-Furness. Shortly after launching in September 1940 she was to be commissioned by the Royal Navy as HMS Urchin, but instead was leased to the Polish Navy due to a lack of experienced submarine crews.[citation needed] A sister boat to Dzik, both boats operated in the Mediterranean from Malta, where they became known as the 'Terrible Twins'." * 1/400 scale Mirage kit contains PE and resin upgrades. Only resin part is nose. And it does not fit well. So it needs alot of filling and sanding. * I scratchbuilt ladders, gun barrel, weld marks, exhaust covers etc. Thanks for viewing... Çetin
  15. Hi everybody, I started to make the Hobby Boss 1:350 - PLAN Kilo class submarine WIPKilo001 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr Some technical info: The Kilo class is the NATO reporting name for a military diesel-electric submarine that is made in Russia. The original version of the vessels were designated Project 877 Paltus in Russia. There is also a more advanced version, designated as Improved Kilo in the west, and Project 636 Varshavyanka in Russia. The boats are mainly intended for anti-shipping and anti-submarine operations in relatively shallow waters. Original Project 877 boats are equipped with Rubikon MGK-400 sonar system, which includes a mine detection and avoidance sonar MG-519 Arfa. Newer Project 636 boats are equipped with improved MGK-400EM, with MG-519 Afra also upgraded to MG-519EM. The improved sonar systems have reduced the number of operators needed by sharing the same console via automation. Project 636, sometimes called "The Black Hole" by the US Navy for its uncanny ability to "disappear", is thought to be one of the quietest diesel-electric submarine classes in the world. Type warship SSK - Attack Submarine Displacement 3.000 tons Crew 52 complement Length 70,00 meters Beam 9,90 meters Draught 6,20 meters Speed 20,0 knots Range 13.900 Km Propulsion 2 X Diesel resulting in 6.800HP Weapons 4 Missile 3M-54E Klub-N (AN; range:220 km; speed:3000 km/h; caliber:533 mm;) 18 Torpedo YU-6/9 (AN-ASW; range:45 km; speed:65 km/h; caliber:533 mm;) I would make a Kilo-class submarine #372 Yuǎnzhēng 72 Hao of PLA Navy First steps: WIPKilo002 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr WIPKilo003 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr Assembled, painted and ... ready for weathering ... WIP-Kilo001 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr WIP-Kilo002 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr WIP-Kilo003 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr WIP-Kilo004 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr
  16. Hi mates, I assembled a classic Revell Kit: KitImage by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#01 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#02 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#03 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#04 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#05 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#06 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#07 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#09 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#11 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#12 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#13 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#14 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr [ url=https://flic.kr/p/29sxPMY]U-Boot#15[/url] by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#16 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#17 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr U-Boot#18 by Rodolfo Masti, su Flickr
  17. There are some accuracy issues with this kit, such as wood cladding on the metal cones which I had to replace with smooth iron. I'm trying to make realistic wood and iron plate textures. I still have to apply rust and weathering and detail parts, it looks quite flat and cartoony until I do so.
  18. Ever since finding this photo of the Balao-class sub USS Sealion, I have wanted to try and model her...... All I needed was a 1/350 scale model of a Sikorsky HRS-3 helicopter to place on her widened deck aft of the fairwater..... Then I found that Shapeways Models made a 3D-printed S-55 heicopeter - so I was ready to start... I'm using the AFV-Club Gato-class sub as a starting point....... Sealion is a Balao-class sub (improved Gato), so I needed a late-style fairwater - also made by Shapeways..... The S-55 helicopters are sold in blocks of 4 - and they are simply stunning.... Here's a single example - all of 36mm (1.5in) long....... I just hope my failing eyesight and fat fingers can do it justice... All I need to do now is widen that decking aft of the fairwater........ watch this space. Ken
  19. I'm working on converting Airfix's 1/350 Trafalgar to a Swiftsure class. I thought I had read somewhere that all the Swiftsures used the shrouded pump jet propulsor, does anyone know if that is correct? If not, do we know which boat used which propulsion method?
  20. It's finished, and on an underwater vignette. To be honest I know I can do better but I rushed this one out as I was getting bored with this model. I have a rule of only ever starting/working on one build at a time, so I quickly finished it so I can start something else. I just didn't get much satisfaction from this kit, can't say why, I'm glad it's done.
  21. Dutch O-16 Submarine Pacific Crossroads 1:350 History The Inter-War Dutch submarine fleet could be split into two categories: O, (Onderzeeboot) boats, designed for the home waters and K, (Kolonien), boats, for deployment in the vast East Indies colonies. The main differences between the two types were size and range, which was greater for the K boats due to the operational area. The O-16 was the first submarine which combined the range, size and speed of the colonial boats with the handling and armament requirements of the boats designed for the European waters. The keel for the O-16 was laid down in December 1933 at K.M. De Schelde shipyard in Vlissingen. She was launched on January 27th 1936 and commissioned on October 26th. In early 1937 O-16 sailed to the United States, visiting Norfolk and Washington D.C. with stops at Bermuda, the Azors and Lisbon. In 1939 she was attached to the Dutch East Indies submarine fleet. When war was declared on Japan on December 8th 1941, O-16 was already on patrol in the South China Sea and commenced attacking Japanese forces that were invading northeast Malaya. On December 10th she damaged a troopship. Two days later O-16 attacked several troopships in the Bay of Soengei Patani on the East coast of Malaya, sinking three in shallow water and damaging a fourth. With only one torpedo left she sailed for Singapore. On December 15th O-16 struck a mine exiting the Gulf of Siam during her voyage to Singapore. She was nearly broken in half and 41 men perished. Only one crew member, Boatswain Cornelis De Wolf, survived. In October 1995, the wreck of O-16 was found and three years later was filmed and photographed. The Model This kit is the first submarine from Pacific Crossroads and it was a very pleasant surprise when it arrived in the post, as I wasn’t expecting it, so thanks for the this Boris. The kit comes in a very sturdy cardboard box with a picture of the O-16 moored alongside a Far Eastern jetty in a very dramatic light and a War Cross medal with Nederlandsch 1941-42 Bar in the right hand corner. On opening the box the modeller is presented with a very well protected hull form, wrapped in bubble wrap, a clear plastic box with all the other resin parts carefully protected, a sheet of etched brass, (although like the other kits from Pacific Crossroads it still looks like copper), a small poly bag containing a small decal sheet and the turned barrel of the main gun. The instructions come with a short history section, reproduced above, some period photographs and colour plan view of the starboard side and top. The instructions themselves are in a pictorial form of coloured drawings. They are very clear and well annotated, showing which parts go where. The modeller will have to scratch build the radio and periscope masts, but there are clear plans for these at the rear of the instructions. Whilst the protection of the main, single piece hull is very good some of the bollards had broken off, but these can easily be replaced with suitably sized rod or even aftermarket parts. The detail moulded into the hull is very nice, but there are some scratches on the sides that will need to be sanded down a bit. The wooden slat decking appears a little over scale and would benefit from a light sanding to reduce the depth a bit, this goes for the deck piece that covers the external torpedo tubes too. The hull isn’t connected to heavily to the moulding block so once removed it shouldn’t be too difficult to clean up ready for the build. The rest of the parts comprising of the single piece tower, propellers, complete with shafts, external torpedo tubes, aft pair of dive planes, rudder, and ships guns, two AA and the single main are all very nicely moulded and will need only a minimal clean up after removal from the casting blocks. As stated above the main gun comes with option of using a turned metal barrel. This will require the resin barrel to be removed and a small hole drilled into the gun to fit. Etch The single etched sheet provides the rest of the parts required to complete the build and included the various railings for the hull and tower, two cranes, one fitted forward and one aft, vertical ladders and two “accommodation ladders”. There are also two aerial spreaders/supports, the bow cable/net cutter, watertight doors for the tower, aft AA gun gratings, two plates that cover the external, trainable torpedo mounting, which can be posed either open or closed and the two foreplanes. Two quite large plaques are provided for attaching to whatever base you decide to mount the completed model on. The build is quite simple, but I can imagine a little fiddly, but one everything is removed from the casting blocks and cleaned up it shouldn’t cause too many problems for the more experienced modeller. I would assemble the masts first in preparation for fitting at the appropriate point. Once these are done the tower can be fitted to the hull, followed by the trainable torpedo tubes, which are fitted into the well on the foredeck and cover by the separate deck piece. The propellers/shafts are then fitted, along with the aft diveplanes, which come complete with prop guards, and rudder. The ships guns are then fitted to their appropriate positions before the etched parts are fitted. The railings are particularly fine and along with the aerial supports great care should be taken to fit them in their appropriate positions without damaging them. The three periscopes and main mast can then be fitted before painting begins. Of course this is only one way of building the model and the modeller should choose what’s best for them and the way they tackle it. Decals The small sheet contains two Dutch flags, which I presume are fitted either side of the tower, although some research will be need to determine the correct placement, and two very small, (I missed them completely, until Boris pointed them out), white identification codes. Make sure you don't lose them when dipping the sheet in water. Conclusion For the first submarine release Pacific Crossroads have chosen an unusual and exciting example. Even the colour scheme will make it stand out from the crowd in a display. Whilst every effort has obviously been made to ensure the parts are well protected there are bound to be some breakages as evidenced on the review sample, but there is nothing that can’t be scratch built to replace these small fragile parts. If you like submarines, you’ll love this and it really should be included in any collection. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  22. I have been impressed by some of the previous conversions of Airfix's 1:350 scale HMS Trafalgar kit that I have seen on this forum; so much so that I felt a desire to do one myself. This one will be a waterline version of HMS Spartan, set in the Falklands during 1982, which I plan to incorporate into a diorama, possibly with other vessels later. Much has already been said about shortening the hull length by 7mm, to get the correct dimensions for the Swiftsure class SSN's, so I am starting this with the hull already converted. Herewith the modified kit. The horizontal indentations on the forward hull sides have been filled, as they do not appear on photo's of the period I have planned for. The model needs the twin baffles to be installed on the hull, alongside the fin; plus the tail fin and other kit parts. As this is a waterline setting, the tail fin will appear separated from the hull; therefore I have placed the model onto a card base. This base will be trimmed to the width of the hull and will be hidden by the sea setting that will surround the model. My intention, hopefully, will be to have Spartan berthed alongside another vessel; probably the Stena Seaspread which was used for repair and maintenance of vessels after the conflict had ended. Well, it's a start and I hope that I can turn this into an acceptable representation of this fine submarine. Thanks for looking. Mike
  23. Good afternoon. I present to you my build of Combrig's re-boxing of U-Boat Laboratorium's UB I type coastal submarine in 1/350, painted as UB-2 (though the plaque says UB 1). From the kit's instruction sheet: "UB-2 entered service on February 18, 1915 and was attached to training Kurland flotilla. An experienced sailor oberleutnant-zur-see Werner Furbringer, future high-scoring U-boot commander and 'Blue Max' winner, became her first captain. "Having successfully completed training UB-2 passed to Flandria to a first line unit. Sincethe beginning of May 1915 up to the end of December 1916 she completed 40 combat cruises and sunk 11 vessels. In January 1917 the submarine transferred to a training flotilla and served there until the end of the war." My first resin ship kit, and was very simple to build; she's barely 3 inches long! The hull was a single piece with the other parts being the rubber assembly, rigging, railing and various other parts. And I lost the propeller. I scratch-built the masts from brass rod and some of the rigging wires with nickel wire. I used Mig Ammo Medium Grey and Citadel Abaddon Black for the paint scheme, and a Copic liner for the face. Weathering was done with an oil paint dot streaking method and Mig Ammo's Rust Oilbrusher. Enjoy!
  24. Hey Guys, This is the old(ish) Zvezda offering boxed under Flagman, which also have their Hotel Class K-19. The kit is not necessarily basic, but its one one sprue and most of the parts go into the various masts on the sail. The kit is curiously designed in the way that the two hull halves go together to leave a gap on the top, where the decks are later fitted. Even more curiously is how they give you a flat deck piece thats meant to bend down over the bow. Furthermore the conning tower was left separate in two halves. Two towers were provided so that you could either produce the Project. 627 or the Project. 627A which was a later (and more common) variant with a different sonar set up including a German-esque chin sonar bulb. The rest of the kit was simple enough but I must say the fit was poor. The bow hydroplanes and the various stern planes locating pins were oversized when compared to the holes they were designed for. and where the hydroplanes aft of the propellers were, they seemed to be too far forward and had to be adjusted to allow the fitting of the propeller. The model was painted with colourcoats (ex-White Ensign) Hull red and NATO Black from Tamiya. Then using oil paints I streaked from all of the major inlet valves for both the main and trim ballast tanks finishing with a coat of Xtracolour Matte Varnish. And here she is with some of her contemporaries as well as successors As you may have/haven't seen my photo set up is pretty rough so hopefully you'll be able to at least see the outline! Thanks for looking Sam
  25. Hey guys, This is MikroMir's very nicely detailed but poorly fitting Alfa. I say poorly fitting because you attempt to put the hull halves together and you end up with something that looks like a poorly peeled banana. The main fin is moulded to the upper hull half because it's so streamlined that there's no point having it separate I'd like to guess. The little (well unusually large on the real thing compared to other submarines) windshield-like thing on top of the sail was photoetch. The idea of the part was to fold it over and sandwich a piece of clear acrylic between two impressions of the windshield, creating the fold up screen that stops you ending up with a bunch of wet Russians. But I may suggest simply cutting one of the windshield pieces away and going at it without the acrylic, mainly for scale appearance because mine appears slightly too thick. The model was painted with the colourcoats (ex-white ensign) hull red and Tamiya's NATO black. This black I feel gives a better representation of the rubberised anechoic tiles the Russians slathered on the submarine to reduce the noise. The models decals were interesting to say the least. The red and white disk which is the protruding dome of the emergency buoy came in separate parts which then separated further at the first look of water. Not to mention the various other decals had about as much strength as the Warsaw Pact in 1991. Finally I added the photoetch propeller blades for both the two trim propellers and the main one of which it was mainly guestimation because the main hub-bulb thing which the blades hang off of was moulded smooth. Again, with some of my other posts you may have/have not seen, my photo set up is rough to say the least so I hope you can at least tell its a submarine! Many Thanks Sam
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