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F-4B Phantom Stencils (D48094) 1:48 Eduard (For Tamiya Kit) We all love an F-4 Phantom, and some of them, especially the early ones were festooned with stencils. This is a full of stencil across two sheets from Eduard. While Tamiya do give you some stencils on the kit sheet the are quite thick compared with Eduard's ones. In addition some on the Tamiya sheet are grouped together with areas of carrier film between them increasing the ability for the them to silver. The decals are printed by Eduard and have good register, sharpness and colour density, with a glossy carrier film printed close to the edges of the printed areas. Conclusion A nice comprehensive set of decals to bring something additional to your kit, whether the new Tamiya kit, or any of the others available. Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Finding myself in a weird situation of wondering if my Airfix Lightning F.2A has *enough* stencils.. 🤪 I accidentally got hold of the starter kit from flea bay last week and when I looked at the decal sheet immediately thought it was very small. I have compared it to the F.6 I also "accidentally" acquired a while back and it seems to have a lot more. Does anyone know if the F2A had less stencils or is this a result of the F2A being a cut down starter kit? Or maybe the green camo scheme makes the stencilling less visible.. Typing this also makes me realise I appear to have a "stash", something I swore wasn't going to happen this time round as I was only going to build a Phantom and a Tornado for old time's sake. Oops... Al.

Hello! I need help! How could possibly look stencils for serial applied to Spitfire MH654 that was returned from USAAF to RAF No. 1435 Squadron in Italy in 1944? Can you please show me any clear, close up photos of serial numbers on Spitfires in that period, of numbers 4, 5 and 6 that would show how stencils, masks for painting numbers were cut? Thank you for reading. Marko Jeras Zagreb, Croatia [email protected]

Hello, I am building these two spits, both NMF (Camouflage has been stripped down) Were the stencils re-applied after paint removal, i.e. should I apply them on my models? Thanks

Stencil Decals for Spitfire Mk.IX 1:72 Eduard This set sees Eduard continue their line of stencil decals with a set for their superb new Spitfire Mk.IX kit. This is a generic set which should be suitable for all Mk.IXs. The sheet is very comprehensive and as you would expect, includes a full set of stencils for the airframe. The sheet is actually the same as that provided in the Profipack edition of the new kit, so you won't need to buy this set if you already have that particular version (good bit of Britmodeller consumer advice there) Conclusion As with their other recent sheets, these decals appear to have been printed in the Czech Republic by Eduard themselves. The sheet is well printed and details are crisp and clear. If you have one of Eduard's great new Spitfires and you have the patience to apply all of these stencils, then this sheet will provide you with a great finishing touch. Review sample courtesy of

https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/hobbydecal We are almost done listing the new-to-us HobbyDecal range. For anyone not familiar with the brand, they hail from South Korea and are gorgeously printed decals and dry transfer sets of hard-to-find stencil markings, tail codes, some squadron markings as well as beautifully machined metal pitot tubes, AOA probes, refuelling probes in 1/32, 1/48 and 1/72 scales.

Fw 190A Stencils 1:72 Eduard Decals This sheet has been included with all the new tool Fw 190 kits that Eduard are producing at present. They have now released this sheet for modeller to use on any 1/72 Fw 190A kit. The decals are printed by Eduard direct, are in register and should pose no problems given my past use of Eduard decals. Conclusion The devil is in the detail as they say and these stencils should improve the look of any kit you use them on. Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of

I've always wanted to build a fairly large diorama, in something like 1:350 scale, and the Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches in the weeks after D-Day was a favourite choice for me. I have all the spud pontoons etc. from L'Arsenal, but didn't have any bridge or gantry sections and these are paramount if building the harbour. There is also a problem in that you need lots of them. I've tried scratchbuilding these parts myself but I could never get two spars or sections to be exactly alike in either length or thickness. I then came across a thread on a railway modelling site, about cutting your own pieces from plastic sheet with a cutting machine. After reading that thread a few times I went and bought a cutting machine and after a few days of learning how it works and dabbling with the software, I scanned a diagram of the bridge section into my PC and after tidying up it looked like this: In 1:350 scale this bridge span is only 2.75 in (7cm) long. I drew vectored lines along those of the scanned image, in order for the cutter to recognise where to cut. Once I had completed the images, I duplicated it 27 more times until I had filled the size of an A4 sheet of 0.25mm plastic card. When the layout was ready I hit the 'cut' key. There's not really much to see here but this is the sheet after it has been cut. You should just be able to see all the cut lines on the sheet. The cutting mat has a sticky top side to it which is necessary to hold the sheet in exactly the same place whilst making multiple cuts. The next task is to lift the waste part of the sheet away from the cut sections. Here we have the 28 bridge spans, plus some end-plates, all cut out to cleanly and exactly to the same dimensions. This would have been a right mess if I had tried cutting all these with a modelling knife! The parts tend to bend (as with any cut plastic) but can be easily flattened. And now for some 'Assembally' (for those who watched New Yankee Workshop!) Look, my own construction kit! The built model. Unfortunately my camera doesn't like white plastic...... So I've given it a spray of primer and stuck a couple of 1:350 ambulances onto it. Just like the Normandy photo! So there you go, who needs expensive PE or aftermarket (which is usually produced to fit a specific model only) when you can cut your own? Another major benefit, especially here with all these bridge sections, is that once you have made your template you can produce more and more as you want them, all to the exact same shape. Another benefit is that although this has been produced to 1:350 scale the drawing can be up-scaled to what ever size needed, such as 1:76 or 1:35 etc., and is only limited to the cutter aperture which in this case is 15 inches. The cutter also cuts masks and decals, in fact it is probably only limited to your imagination! Check through the link again to see what they say about the different types of cutters that are out there. There are quite a few different types and prices but most are able to cut masks, decals and thin plastic sheet. I've only been playing with the cutter for a week (this build was a bit of a rush test and only took about 2 hours so imagine the standard if I spent some time and effort to make a quality build.) so don't know yet how thick a piece of plastic sheet it can cut. This bridge was made from 0.25mm sheet, which is about right for bridge spans in 1:350 scale and the cutter took two passes to cut through (you can set the cutter to make multiple passes if the material is tough). Hope you enjoyed this and perhaps it has given you the inspiration to look at building models, or parts, from a different viewpoint. cheers Mike