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  1. It's been a while since I built my last Falke, and that one ended up in Gulf (ish) racing colours, so here we go again with another. For those that don't know, here is a link to a boxtop picture of the Hasegawa falke. I do have one in the stash, but I prefer scratchbuilding. https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/2/6/0/101260-27767-98-pristine.jpg I usually change the basic design of the original and this case will be no exception. BTW, These can be built using a 1/48th P-38 and a 1/32nd car. I bought a built 1/32nd Revell P-38 off the bay some time ago. I think it had been stuck together with candle wax as it was partially disassembled when it arrived. Which is actually a good thing, given what I was going to do to it. I think it only cost me about a tenner. Modelling on a budget. love it. This is the 1/25th shell of a Chevy Beretta. An American car from around 1990. I think I built it about 20 years ago. It will form the main body of the Falke. The original used a small Japanese Sports car model which is long out of production. (I think). Whatever, I wanted a wider cabin than usual. Mostly, all you need of the P-38 is the booms and bits of the wings. Cut off the back of the boom, then cut the wings to keep the Turbo Supercharger housings. These housings will be filled with greeblies, while the booms will be turned on their sides. Having cut off the wings we are left with gaps in the sides. I've used off cuts of wood and balsa to partially fill the gaps. I then mixed up some Milliput and made worms to close them off better. Glue on the wing offcut and squish down the Milliput. More Milliput (and spit) was used to fill and further smooth out the gap. Remember, this will be the top or bottom surface. Once dry I can file/sand it all down and use Humbrol filler to finish off. I'm not bothered about losing surface detail at this stage. Those red intakes you can see will be faired in with a slope of card and filler. The wheel well doors will be refitted and any gaps filled. I probably won't get back to this before the weekend so the filler will have plenty of time to dry. Thanks for looking. Comments and Bourbon biscuits are always welcome. As are suggestions for a final paint scheme. Pete
  2. Enjoying the two live Taube builds in the forum I’ve always loved the Taube so I’ve decided to put my money where my mouth is song make a Taube of my own. Kits are hard to come by and expensive so nothing else for it a scratch build. The wings are a little different but most of the structures in the plane are fairly straight forward. However it will require s level of model engineering to get it to work and no guarantees that this will make the finish line any day soon or at all The basic wing plan scaled to 1/48 Mirrored and copied and attached to .5mm sheet. Reverse side after ruling with a ballpoint. Top panels cut out and brass rod attached for the two spars. .5mm plastic rod glued to the leading edge. Next I’ll lay in the ribs and attach the lower panels, going well so far.
  3. Hogwart's Express - A Baby Bandsaw Build 'A scarlet steam engine was waiting next to a platform packed with people. A sign overhead said Hogwarts Express, 11 o'clock. Harry looked behind him and saw a wrought-iron archway where the ticket box had been, with the words Platform Nine and Three-Quarters on it. He had done it' So wrote J.K. Rowling in chapter six of her 1997 novel Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone - the first in a series of novels that some of you may have heard of. My two daughters have definitely heard of these books - and have seen the films countless times - in fact they are bordering on fanatical about all things Harry Potter. So it wasn't a complete surprise when the younger of them - twelve year old 'Baby Bandsaw'- came to me about two weeks ago and asked if she could have a go at scratch-building a model of the Hogwarts Express. Being a very irresponsible parent I immediately decided that this was a great idea and despite all of the hazards of power-tools and chisels and so-forth, Baby Bandsaw (B,B) should indeed have a crack at this! We agreed that I would give her inexpert guidance, bad advice and, whenever required, inept help. She however would actually do the majority of the work. This will be Baby Bandsaw's Build, not mine, but she agreed that I was allowed to photograph and document her progress right here on Britmodeller and that I would be allowed to publish under my log-on. I looked her straight in the eye and asked her 'if you start this will you finish it?' it was a somber moment - she said 'yes' so we shook hands and the project began. After a brief bit of research and a couple of internet searchs I found this set of plans for a 'Hall Class' locomotive (Olton Hall was used in the film) and re-scaled the plans to 1/48 scale using my work's photocopier. This should be enough to get started. In model railway world I think that 1/48 is called 'O' gauge for some obscure reason. This lump of Huon Pine - the same bit I used to form the vac-form cowling buck on the Avro 504 - was the only bit of decent wood I had that was wide enough to start to form the boiler . Here is the first cut in the entire project. BB cutting off a small surplus lump on one end, squaring up the block in preparation for further work. Here she's cutting out the profile view of the boiler. We have no plan view at this stage but that's not too much of a handicap because the boiler is circular in cross-section and so the side view is identical to the plan. As per my usual 'modus operandi' BB is spraying some cheap photo-fixative glue onto the side of the wood so that... She can stick the paper pattern on and start some bandsaw action! I was sort-of a bit 'parental' here and fussed about making sure those fingers stayed at least a small distance from the blade! A few minutes later she had this. We marked up a 'do not cut into' red line -as you can see below - and a grey 'remove with chisel' area and BB started hacking into the sharp squared off corners with this scoop chisel - nice work! So after about half an hour she was left with this. The very, very early stages of this build. The very first bit of rounding off of that square block that will need be reduced to a full cylinder to represent the boiler. Alas, by now it was bedtime as BB had school the following day. So begins my first post on the 'Civilian Vehicle's forum - a forum I have been hankering to get onto for some time. Some of you may be thinking 'Ere! Isn't there a forum specifically for railway locomotives on Britmodeller?' and there is. However, frankly, it's a bit hidden away and BB and I are hoping for a bit of visibility, interest and banter regarding this project. We think it will do better here in that regard. I did send a Personal Message to @Mike and he has very graciously given us permission to post this here so we aren't trespassing - honest! Anyway - this should be fun, and I hope some of you see fit to follow along and see what comes of this. Best Regards, Baby Bandsaw and Bandsaw Steve!
  4. SS Xantho, Western Australia's First Steamship. St George's Terrace is the main business thoroughfare of Perth and every 20 metres or so along its length, embedded in the footpath is a plaque similar to the one shown below. Each plaque commemorates a year in the history of Western Australia and the most eminent person in the state that year. There are some names you may have heard of; Allan Bond, Dennis Lillee and Bob Hawke for example - I note that Rolf Harris's one has recently disappeared!? But most of the names are those of administrators, academics or business people whose stories are now forgotten by all except their decedents or the most ardent of local history buffs. In the course of my years of work in this city I must have walked past this rather battered looking plaque hundreds - probably thousands - of times without noticing it or giving it a moment's thought. 1870 - Charles Edward Broadhurst - Pearler... About two year's ago, on a lunch break, I dropped into my favourite bookshop and while perusing the local history section found this recently published book. The nautical cover caught my attention. I wondered if there would be schematic drawings inside. I'm always looking for schematic drawings. There were a few sketches in the book, but none of the four-view technical profiles and cross-sections I was hoping for. There was however this artist's impression of a most fetching looking 19th century steamship; The SS Xantho. I started to read and once I started into her story - and that of her owner Mr Broadhurst - I could not stop. It turns out that this vessel - and a rather extraordinary vessel she was in certain regards - was Western Australia's first ever steamship. I'm not going to try to tell her history to you right now, because that would make for a very long introductory post and I am anticipating that this project could last for some time. We can discuss her history in detail later. Suffice to say that this ship sank in November 1872 at Port Gregory, a tiny, tiny settlement 500 km North of the state capital Perth. (See the map below.) Fortunately no lives were lost. Following her loss she was essentially forgotten and sat undisturbed for more than 100 years and was of no apparent significance beyond being a hazard to navigation. The red arrow shows the position of her wreck, right at the entrance to the harbour and the yellow arrow the site of the only jetty for scores of nautical miles in any direction. But in 1983 Xantho was re-discovered by staff of the Western Australian Maritime museum and, due to a number of extraordinary and completely unforeseen factors she was about to be propelled to global fame - at least within the world's maritime archeology community. In the words of Dr 'Mac' MacCarthy, the world's leading expert on Xantho - 'This ship is world famous - in certain circles'. I think it's a shame so few other people have heard of her. Once the Avro 504 is finished I'm going to build a model! Be warned though Britmodeller maritime folks I have great plans for this one, and I'm going to need all the help and expertise that I can get, because this promises to be a research nightmare! Very Best Regards, Bandsaw Steve.
  5. Greetings All. For those of you who saw my recent Whippet: and I’m pleased to say that your fantastic feedback has urged me to get cracking with the next proper project. So here we go – obscure WWI scratchbuild!!! I’ve selected this… For a number of reasons: 1. It’s got flat armour. 2. It’s got covered wheels (no spokes) 3. It’s got virtually no info about it available (as far as I can tell). I’m new to scratchbuilding; the Whippet was my first and I don’t have a toolshed full of lovely treats like lathes and milling machines – so everything needs to be do-able with just a few simple tools, especially at the moment under re-located lockdown. Scalpel – check. Pin vice – check. Tweezers – check. Glue – check. Right, let’s get cracking! This vehicle makes it as easy as I can get it, and with very little reference material, who’s to say I’m wrong? No worrying about whether I should model the 1916 pattern leather belt flange spronglets, or the 1915 tin and papier-mache versions with overlapping fringe dongles….. nice! First (and possibly the biggest) challenge – wheels. I used Alexandr Bondar’s excellent card model instructions from the landships II website - http://www.landships.info/landships/models.html# Scaling these up in photoshop to an estimated, and as close as I can get by eye, 1/35 (fingers crossed), the wheels scaled out to 21.6mm internal diameter (inside of the rim), and 28mm external outside of the tyre. As luck would have it, a furtle around in my plumbing spares came up with some 22mm plastic speedfit pipe. The bends and connectors unscrewed to reveal a bunch of 28mm diameter O rings. Sheer luck, but I’m taking it as a good omen. I studied the 3 photos and instructions that appear to be all that is known about this vehicle and concluded that as with most other WWI era British armoured cars, double tyres were installed on the rear wheels, with minimal if no tread. The O rings have it! So far, so good, but a tricky bit had to occur somewhere, and in this case it’s the rear wheel itself. The solid centre of the front wheel is clearly flat, but the thicker rear is dished, with a conical plate – hmm. Not so straightforward. I cut a few over-sized circles and sliced them to make cones. A few experiments and a couple were glued together, held in place while the glue set by mounting them within the cut sections of tube that will form the rims. On releasing them, it was clear that the join wasn’t perfect, tending to meet at an angle rather than curve, so a bit of milliput will be smeared in with plenty of water to smooth it. All this wheel work required a few circles to be cut out of 0.5mm and 0.2mm plastic card. Here’s (one of) the way(s) I do it – pin in a pin-vice, scribed repeatedly ‘round a circle template. Snap out the circle and clean up with sandpaper. All ok so far, but don’t hold your breath – this could take a while…. See you next time!
  6. Panzerhaubitzer 2000 - Pzh 2000 in the 1980s the German, Italian and British governments attempted to develop, in collaboration, the next generation of NATO self-propelled Artillery. For various reasons that project failed. Britain pressed on and successfully developed the AS-90 while the Germans pursued their own project which combined the expertise of leading German companies, Wegmann, Krauss-Maffei and Rheinmetall to produce the truly awesome Panzerhaubitze 2000. In the 1990's this was arguably the best Self Propelled Gun in the world and it remains a cutting-edge weapon to this day. Today it is used by several NATO nations including; Germany, Holland, Italy, Greece, Lithuania, Croatia and Hungary. The Pzh 2000 features an extremely long - 52 calibre - 155mm gun with a largely automated gun-loading mechanism for very high rates of fire to ranges in excess of 40km. The weapon's fire-control is among the most sophisticated in the world, and allows a single gun to be fired in 'multiple round, simultaneous impact' or MRSI mode. In this mode up to five shells can be fired, each with its own charge and trajectory in such a fashion that all five shells hit the same target at the same moment. The gun is also capable of firing GPS-guided precision rounds with a circular impact error of about 1.5m. The Pzh 2000 has seen a significant amount of action in Afghanistan where both Dutch and German examples have been used to provide fire-support to the International Security Assistance Force. This was the first time that the German Army has used artillery in combat since the end of WW2. One day while on my lunch break (long before all this COVID 19 business broke out) I was checking out a little-visited corner of the local gaming / model / bookshop and found this in among a pile of largely neglected publications. Upon opening the book I was greeted with this fold-out (and there are front and rear views on the flip side too). Now this might just be the most exciting centre-fold I've ever seen. In any case, a few minutes later the book was purchased. About a week later I had decided that this project was going ahead but that 1/35 just wasn't big enough. I took the book to my local printing / copying shop and got the drawings enlarged to 1/24 scale and copied 8 times. I got one 'master set' laminated. And now we are off... Let's scratchbuild one of these things! This is going to be an unusual build for me because much of the work will be done in plastic card, but I want a good solid wooden hull to work from so I'm starting with this block of 'Liquid Ambar' - a superb carving wood - which needs to be cut to the correct size. Here's the first cut of the entire project. Here's the interpreted curve on the leading edge of the hull being marked out... and here it is being carved to shape. Then rasped prior to a final filing and sanding smooth. OK - looks about right. Now I use the bandsaw to cut the wood to exactly the correct width for the hull. The bandsaw! Best tool in the shed! And following a bit of research (especially looking at photos) and some ‘interpretive’ carving and cutting at the rear of the hull I have this basic starting point. After two years of slaving away building a WW1 Biplane (an Avro 504 to be precise) I'm dead keen to work on this project which promises a complete change of subject and modelling method. I hope that some of you will follow along and see what comes of this little venture. Bandsaw Steve
  7. We must fight on, whatever happens. I should count it a privilege to be dead if Hitler rules England. I had not thought I should have to live through such awful days... From the diary of Sir Alexander Cadogan, Permanent Under Secretary of the Foreign Office How grim things must have seemed then. It is sobering to imagine the uncertainty of the times, even with our own present troubles. Civilization was on the brink, and it is frightful to think where we would be now as a people, as a species, if things had gone the other way. I'm always interested to read the accounts from people which were written at that time, unfiltered by years or a lifetime of hindsight. One aircraft that for me embodies that period of dark uncertainty and impending peril was the benign little Miles Magister, hastily modified to carry a clutch of anti-personnel bombs beneath its wings. When the invasion came, these fragile, under-powered trainers would be sent out as part of a last desperate all-or-nothing defense of Britain. I had the ex-Frog Novo Magister as a kid, and I loved that little bird. I must have painted it in a dozen different liveries in its time. The last being an overall coat of Humbrol 11 "Silver Fox". Traces of which remained on the armrest of my mother's favourite armchair for more than a decade after... I've long hoped to do another Magister, but these days I'm deeply embedded in the cult of 1/144. Apart from an unobtainable resin from Japan, there aren't any of the little buggers to be had. If I really wanted a Magister (and I did) the only hope was to do one from scratch. So here goes... The first bit was the keel. I found a bit of evergreen styrene and cut a strip representing the bottom of the fuselage and bent it to a curve that matched the drawings. Not very exciting, but its the most important bit. I made sure the taper at the back was okay then added two sidewalls of .35mm styrene. A "roof" of 2mm sheet was also cut and some undersized openings for the cockpits were drilled out. I tried to get this piece as seamless a fit as I could, but there's nothing to locate it to yet so I'll need to flush it in properly later. The upper fuselage decking got rounded off with a file and I laminated some scrap styrene for the cowling. The long bit sticking out the front is a temporary handle that will get cut off later. Making the part from laminations rather than a solid piece is easier, as you can use the seams as a guide to ensure you don't start filing the piece out of alignment. Then it was time to bur out the inside of the decking. Brrr! Once the piece is thinned down you can shape the edges of the cockpit much more easily. The next evening I added a dummy tail and taped the bits together for a captain cook. The cowling was beginning to take shape by this time too. With that part in hand it was on to the wings. I started off with a parallel strip of 3mm styrene and cut it to the width of the centre section. This got double sided taped to a block that was held in a vice. Then I went at it two-handed with a big coarse file that was about 30cm long. I rounded the leading edge first. Then worked over the back. Flipping the piece over and sticking the wing down again with a fresh bit of tape makes it easy to shape the wing evenly. It took about 40 minutes to get the basic shape. The wing(s) are marked with some scalpel lines and two deep score marks underneath where I'll bend them to create the dihedral. Then the excess is sliced off. Then it was back on the block with some tape to shape the outer wing panels. Once this is done the styrene is easily tidied up by wet sanding. A piece of the centre section was cut away to accommodate the fuselage, but I left a bridge running between the two wings to preserve their alignment. A corresponding notch was cut out of the lower fuselage. Somebody once said I was a frustrated carpenter. They may have been right! The fit isn't going to set the world on fire, but its okay. Adding more soon!
  8. Hi folks, I am planning to scratchbuild a Sikorsky S-61N helicopter but am lacking some details. I have plenty of Plan and Profile diagrams but do not have any cross-section views, which would be needed for me to get the contours and dimensions right. Can anyone here help with such information, measurements and frame/cross-section plans please? cheers Mike
  9. This one is an unholy marriage of a Bell 47 helicopter cockpit and a Cessna 02 spotter aircraft. With floats and a jet engine for good measure. I'm not sure if the kreiger universe even has ships. But I've armed this with water jet powered 'Penguin' torpedo's just in case. The floats were from a Smer Swordfish. Other bits are sparesbox fodder. The paddle on the float was Tamiya Schwimwagen. The 'MAD' type detection boom here was a Smer torpedo. What look like paint rollers are cockpit access steps. One of the 'Penguin' torpedo's ready for launch. The white bellytank can be seen here. The ladder is to reach the wing tanks for gravity refuels. I used a very thin self adhesive tape on the stabilizer leading edge top and bottom to counter the jet exhaust heat. Sparesbox markings. The underside paint is Tamiya IJN pale grey. The blue and green are Tamiya mixes. The green was simply drybrushed. Pressure refuel point is just visible on the left rear fuselage. Various greeblies dress up the floats. International orange tiptanks were suggested, but I painted them, then used micromesh to rub down to the orange plastic to show some erosion. I've kept the underside clean but added a few patches to the floats. Nasty stuff, Coral. Yes, I'm thinking South Pacific operations. The cockpit is as per the MASH original build. What was the collective now operates the float rudders. Here it is with a previous sparesbox anti ship aircraft. This one was 1/48th, same floats but P-38 Lightning fuselage. A closer look. Probably built ten years ago I can't remember what name I gave it! That's an intake in front of the windscreen BTW. Here's a link to the builld. The bench is clear. Goodness knows what will turn up next! Thanks for looking and your comments are always welcome. Pete
  10. Last year I had a go at building a 1/48 aircraft from scratch for the first time. Have to say I learned a lot and enjoyed the process in a way. Still nice then I have had a go at a helicopter with some complex decals and a few fairly out of box kits. But i have been thinking for a bit about what to build next. I had a crazy notion to try a VC-10 but a mock up of that just showed the sheer size of it. So I am not saying never to that idea, just not yet. So something smaller. A Jetstream? Last one was a Dominie, so a bit to similar. Did consider a Britten-Norman Islander, or an Andover, both would be nice. But I settled on an aircraft that used to give cracking displays amongst the jets at 1980’s air shows. And one I built in 1/72 as a kid, but can’t get in 1/48 - even though a page on the internet suggests ESCI made one (they didn’t) So what am I talking about? She will be Dutch and a transport turbo prop. Yes a Fokker F-27 Friendship. Here is the show programme from Airfete 84 - sharing the bill with a Blackbird and Concorde! So how would she look. A quick print out, a bit of cardboard tube and some backing card, and this is what we have Not it as big as you might think. Here with my F-8 Crusader So the scary bits - turbo props & 4 bladed propellers. High undercarriage struts on the wing wheels. Scratching all the undercarriage. The main body is very similar to a stretched Dominie shape, just a bit wider. When will this get started? Who knows. Need to get some 50mm tube, probably go clear tube as before & start to shape up the nose or tail. This website may help https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?346259-Building-of-a-Fokker-27 i don’t really have enough information or good plans, but why let those details get in the way? So I thought, start a thread & then the idea is out there - can’t keep putting it off! Don’t expect lots of quick progress.
  11. I think a suitable subtitle to this one would be, "Go on, Sir, You tell 'im!" This is a scratchbuild which has taxed the spares boxes, but it has been rather enjoyable. The idea is that after the battle is over, there needs to be a period of tidying up. So, a vehicle of some sort, a trailer for the recovered scrap/salvage, and, in this case, a means of finding said salvage. Hence, a drone to overfly the scene and spot the goodies. I was pressured by persons anonymous to put this lot into a small diorama. So without further adoodoo's here we go. First off, a birds eye view of the scene. A lot of the kreiger action takes place in Australia. So here we are in the desert, next to a water purification plant. Not quite a moisture farm on Tatooine, but not far off and somewhat derelict to boot. And here's why I said it's, "Go on, Sir, You tell 'im!" I bought the Fighting suit ready finished from the bay. I have some others, but they are in snow camouflage. Not really suitable in this case. This vehicle is totally scratchbuilt. Bits of various tanks, Humvee etc, and the crane was HO scale. The round tanks in the background were Hugo Boss Orange aftershave. The RH one was originally in my old Misfit build from Saudi. I'm not sure how this would tow both trailers, but it could probably happen. The drone was a small scale Transall. Both trailers are scratchbuilt too. The mudguards are Airfix Tiger tank turret parts . The settling tank? seen here was a ship display stand. The springs are brushes for electric motors. The cones in the middle were from torches and the centre thing is an upsidedown 1/24th Pillar drill. I also took pictures outside in case it made them sharper. The drone landing gear should be removed for transport. Someone will be on a fizzer! Will it hit the trailer? A better view of the motor brushes here. Perhaps if the tank was full of water, they'd help with heat dissipation? And an eye level view. From the other end. I wonder what the outcome will be? Thanks for looking and your comments are always welcome. As are offers of money or chocolate. Have a look in the Work in Progress section for build details. Cheers, Pete
  12. A build from 7 years ago: The issue #102 (April 2013) of Skyways has a long article on the Mystery Ship. “Scratchbilt” brand kits could be qualified as the most optimistic kits of all times (no kidding, and you will see why). Their #3 Travel-Air Mystery Ship is portrayed in one of the accompanying photos. The contents are as follows: three printed sheets with a 3 view, patterns, several drawings and depiction of the construction. Also there was a decal sheet by Microscale, two plastic rods and two vacuformed canopies. In this particular case the review should start: “You are on your own” (you were anyway, don’t worry) since the method given to build the model (keel, many half bulkheads, stringers, strip covering, puttying and sanding) could have worked on a larger scale or for a galleon, but it is hopeless in 1/72. The instructions also advise you to ruin other kits by cannibalizing spats and cowls that are an ill-fit anyway. The depicted method for building the stab and wing was used by the Spanish Inquisition. A truly remarkable kit, this “Scratchbilt”. Their logic and business model are equivalent to giving someone a box of rivets, the directions to an iron ore mine, a sketch and a piece of Camembert cheese and tell them to build the Eiffel Tower. I have to concede that they have a sense of humor, though, and that their brand name, “Scratchbilt”, does not hide their purpose. That being said, you still have those decals. Or do you? When David The Irrefutably Unbound from Glen Ellyn sent me some material related to the Mystery Ship, I exhumed the “kit” from the dungeons where it was kept under lock inside a coffer marked “evil”. As you can see in the photos I followed my own path here using wood for the fuselage and spats’ vacuforming plugs, the traditional one-two styrene punch for the rest, and white metal engine, prop and wheels from Aeroclub. The engine had to be modified to fit the plane’s one, which had a particular front case. The short wing struts and landing gear struts were made from brass “Strutz” stock, for which I am indebted to Andrew of England, The Slightly Iridescent. An interior was scratched as per photos, some was structural and some pour la galerie. The first Microscale decal I used was for the instrument panel and it was the source of momentary panic as I had to wait about twenty minutes for the decal to come loose from the backing sheet. Once all the main components were ready, the puttying/sanding/priming/repeat cycle ensued. The painting stage -which involved a good share of masking- required attention. At this point I tried to use the rest of the decals, but the first ones shattered in myriads of little pieces. The ones that remained in the backing sheet were treated with Testors decal bonder, but later on a few more shattered anyway as they were applied. The few remaining ones were given a few coats of Future, but again to no avail. Now, this is not Microscale’s fault, the decal must have been between 20 and 30 years old, and not properly stored. I printed the decals that failed and had a great time cutting the regs from white decal stock. The transparency was cut in three parts, the frames depicted with metal-painted decal strips, and arranged in its open position. The underwing oil coolers were made of thin aluminum sheet, engraved, cut and glued. The two Venturi probes were attached after the photos were taken (the photos of course made me realize that they were still unattached). Regarding real kits, I am aware of the 1/72 Dekno resin model of the Mystery Ship. I also built a sister ship, as I had made the wood vac masters already: Many, many pages have been written about the Travel Air Mystery Ship but I can’t tell you anything because of its inherent mystery. No ostriches or people from outer space were harmed during the construction of this model. We would like to extend our thanks to the sponsor, The Intergalactic Soenkish Empire. They used to call this a "kit". Can you believe the cheek!? A few printed sheets, a solitary strip of styrene, and a molded canopy. Even the decals shattered.
  13. A build from 12 years ago: The Nemeth Umbrellaplane, as its name indicates, was created to minimize the weather impact while waiting on the tarmac on rainy airstrips. Or not. Thanks to one of the very good publications issued by Bill Hannan at Hannan’s Runway, this model could finally see the light of day (under the umbrella, that’s it). This beautiful machine was the brainchild of Mr. Nemeth, and was built by students of the University of Miami. The fuselage is from a stretched Alliance Argo, and was powered by a Warner Scarab. Later in its life the wing was altered to another, even stranger, split configuration. A bit more of information can be found at Aerofiles: http://www.aerofiles.com/_n.html The model, as you can tell by the “in progress” photos, is made basically, as usual, from styrene sheet and rod. Aeroclub engine prop and wheels completed the needed parts. The forest of struts was dealt with using brass “Strutz”. Once I got all the parts on the table I gently blew over them and pronounced the powerful word “Shazam!” And the model came to life. The truth is out there.
  14. Hello everyone! My Wolseley armoured car.... ....is finally finished! I got tired of waiting for the headlights to dry, and ripped out the microscale Krystal clear (after about 7 coats it was like pork-pie jelly) to replace it with Gorilla clear glue - much better! ...a bit too clear if anything. The saga will continue at the WIP with horses, figures and a diorama base (inlcuding AA box), but for now the car is complete. thanks for watching!
  15. A build from 11 years ago> While some designers choose to do away with the fuselage and the tail and create a “flying wing”, others choose to eliminate the wings and create a lifting body. That was the choice of William Horton, from California and Vincent Burnelli, both of them shaped the fuselage as a wing section. The Horton design featured large “endplates” –apparently described as “sealers”- along the fuselage/airfoil to improve its efficiency. A number of control surfaces can be seen at its rear end: a central, finned elevator and two surfaces on the sides that look like elevons (elevator+ailerons). Two fins and rudders are integral with the endplates. It is of notice that the concept of lifting body in this case was linked to the “roadable” plane too, since it was suggested to develop such machine later on. The design can be also described as being of “negative aspect ratio”, since its span is less than its length, roughly a 0.5 to 1 ratio. And perhaps we should clear some recurrent confusion: William Horton was an American from California, while the Horten (with “e”) were brothers from the nazi Germany that later got a free-pass to Argentina for a while. The Horten Bros. designed a number of flying wings and William Horton, as said, worked on the concept of lifting bodies, creating first the plane which model is here depicted, and later a more futuristic-looking, twin-engine bigger machine also called the Horton Wingless. William Horton associated with Howard Hughes, a joint-venture that apparently didn’t work out very well due to the iron grip of Mr. Hughes. Unfortunately, Hughes stalled in every possible way the development and sales of the Wingless. Shame on you Howard. Nevertheless the prototype achieved some flight and its beautiful lines were preserved in a few images. Simple lines on a model don’t necessarily translate into simple construction. Once the planning and engineering started, it was obvious that once more simple design didn’t mean simple construction. One or two parts were modified spare bin sleepers, while wheels and prop –Hartzell on the original plane- were modified Aeroclub items. Only a bit of the interior can be seen in the available photos of the real plane, enough to see the bulk of the long Franklin 68A engine in the middle of the cockpit/cabin while the shaft protrudes ahead of the fuselage. The pilot seat seemed to be the located on the left. The part count was about a hundred when I judiciously stopped counting. Although undiscriminating fellow modelers whose visual education and taste leaves much to be desired dared to call this beauty a “flying toaster”, one thing can not be denied: imagination was for sure abundant in the blooming 50’s.
  16. Here's one I made earlier........... During a computer cleanout, I 're-discovered' my photos of a scratchbuilt A-90 Ekranoplan that I made some 20 years ago..... so I thought I'd share the build with you.... Excuse the quality of the photos - they are now quite old - and not the best I have ever taken. The build was inspired by the release of the Revell 1/44 scale A-90 - plus some drawings I found in the Russian magazine 'Aerohobby'.... The drawings are excellent - and most importantly - they have cross-sections, so they were scaled up to 1/72, on printed out in A4 and the sheets taped together. The main fuselage section is essentially a rectangular box - with a curved roof (like a railway carriage) and a vee-shaped planing bottom... Here's the inverted 'floor' with plastic card bulkeads attached as per the drawing to form the vee...... Now the right way up, the rectangulay starboard side panel is attached.... .... together with the port panel and rear bulkhead...... The fuselage inverted to show the planing vee... The centre keel of the rear fuselage is added and shaped bulkheads are attached on either side. The curved roof bulkheads are fitted to a centre keel to form the outline shape....... The planing bottom and flat rear side panels are attached........... The fin is made from a plastic card outline shape - with balsa wood stuck to both sides and sanded to aerofoil section....... Checking the fin for fit - and 'planking in' the lower rear fuselage with strips of narrow plastic card........ The port side lower rear fuselage is planked in.... The fin has the rudder separated and is skinned with thin plastic card... More later.... Ken
  17. I don't normally cross over to this side of the house much, but I do like the occasional Armour build and I've been planning to do this one for ages. My 1/72 (76) operational WWI tank collection so far. But it's missing one, namely the Schneider CA1 the first operational tank in WWI. (arguably I should have some of the other MKs of Heavy tanks too but they may come later, along with a possible K-wagon (they almost finished two prototypes)) but the lack of a Schneider is really a gaping hole in the set. And yes I know there are resin Schneiders out there, but I enjoy scratch building plus they are hard to get hold of and ferociously expensive. Starting with a wooden core and skinning it with plastic sheet panels. I've the underside and the lower and front panels attached. The pieces are more glued to the core than each other.
  18. Rummaging through my attic and found a very old MAP set of Albatros plans, with nothing better to do I went through the whole pack, all the B,C and D series, of all of them I liked the look of the C IX it’s essentially a two seat D series with ( for the time) a very unconventional wing arrangement. The plans. Not having access to a photocopier any more and with time in my hands I decided to draw up some 1/48 sketches my hand, these will be my working drawings.
  19. Suddenly this afternoon it all came together, so I've taken lots of pictures in the hope that someone out there will like it, and may even be inspired to have a go themselves. The basic fuselage is strips of wood glued rather like a balsa aircraft and covered in plastic card. The nose section was a 1/32nd Puma, first built decades ago. There are original Sternail models out there. probably less than a dozen all scratchbuilt, I did one years ago. This, the Ausf D. would be a development of the original. Scale is 1/35th. It measures out at nearly 70cm. call it 2 feet 3 inches in old money. Nose armament, Laser/plasma? You decide. The wasp decal is from a Messerscmitt Bf110 The yellow/green decal is supposed to be a bit like the WW2 defence of the Reich markings. I used two decals overlaid. To the left of that is the airlock door for the WSO (Weapons systems operator) or GIB (Guy in Back). Lots of other access panels can be seen. The RH comms pod. RH thruster turret. See those silver balls on the blade pitch change arms. What's the name of that game where grown men run around woodland firing these pellets at each other? I'm not entirely happy with the solar panels. Black paint over silver, But they'll have to do until I think of another way to do it. They do look pretty battered and worn though, in typical kreiger fashion. That thruster in the middle is an Aircraft rivet type called a Rivnut, or rather, it was. As seen on Wessex radius arm mounting plates. There's another one under here. And I cut the middles out of 1/25th steering wheels and glued them to the Sherman drive sprockets on the scanner, above right. The left side featuring the pilots airlock door. The docking probe is visible on the right. Meteor sheild (Puma door) and Comms pod (Mascara compact lid & card) LH main horizontal steering thruster turret (King Tiger) LH gun close up. Various Panzer bits. The convoluted jobbie is a Biro spring wrapped in PTFE tape. EDIT - I forgot to show the engines, so here you are.... So, there we go. It's been a fun build and due to being stuck at home it's finished months earlier than expected. I hope you've seen something you like and I welcome your comments and questions. Thanks for looking, Pete
  20. You know those occasions when you get a crazy idea and just have to give a try? Well this is one of those. There's far from any guarantee of success or completion, but fortune favours the brave and all that..! Having a real soft-spot for the Avro Shackleton I've decided to do something really stupid and have a go at scratch-building one in 1/32nd scale. As I'm sure we're all aware there's kits available in 1/72nd and 1/48th scale, but nothing in 1/32nd so the only option is to start from scratch. I have an old ID Models 1/32nd Lancaster in the stash, and always planned to convert that to a Lincoln. However, when doing some research on the Lincoln I discovered that the wing and centre section (although widened on the Shackleton) were in essence the same airframe. Therefore I thought, making a Shackleton using the Lancaster as a parts donor could be a viable option... The first phase of the project was to find some plans. The Warpaint Series on the Shackleton came up trumps, and although these plans are far from perfect they've given me enough to get started. I duly enlarged them to 1/32nd scale and cobbled together a reasonable outline for a MR2 which is the version I'm hoping to replicate. You can see the size this model will (hopefully) be when finished when you put the Airfix 1/72nd kit on top: With that done it was sourcing the key components of a project like this - various thicknesses of plastic card: And of course the ID Models Lancaster: I then set about building up the centre section from plastic card formers, using the bomb bay roof as the structural centre-point. Wing spars have been made integral to the structure for strength and stability. I'm not going to worry too much about an interior to the fuselage, as it'll all be sprayed black and next to nothing will be visible through the small fuselage windows. The forward flight deck area will be fully replicated, though: The plan is to use the Lancaster fuselage sides for the 'skinning' of the model, and other areas will be 'planked' and blended with filler from thin plastic card strips. With the fuselage centre section progressing well and having cut my teeth on making bulkheads and formers etc., I had the confidence to have a go at making the nose section. This is a lot more tricky as there are many complex shapes and subtle curves to try to replicate, especially around the extreme nose where the bomb aimer/gunner's glazing. Again, the interior won't an accurate structural representation of the real thing, but being black and only the extreme nose interior being visible there shouldn't be too many problems here. As with the fuselage, the basic shape of the formers were made from plastic card and assembled to give a skeleton that'll be skinned in due course: I haven't made the 'roof' to the nose compartment yet as some form of interior needs to be added, as well as the observer/gunner's transparencies and its associated fairings: So this is where we're currently at: And alongside the 1/72nd scale version for a 'size reality check!' As I said at the start, there's no guarantee of success in the long term, but I'm having a blast right now! Tom
  21. A while back whilst building the Jura I started a wee Welsh Models, 1/144 Supermarine Scimitar F. Mk. 1. I really should have posted some pics and the WIP by now so here goes: The "Instructions": The "Kit": Some bits done: Stupidly decided to scratch build the ejection seat. It's not very big... Installed. More to follow soon.
  22. Soooooo... It's been a while since I posted any builds mainly because I seem to have hit a brick wall called "finishing a model". The shelf of shame is really getting very shameful. And so begins a woeful tale of buffoonery. About a month ago I was at a friend's house and whilst chatting to another old friend of theirs he mentioned that he used to work on the Scottish Fishery Protection Agency ships. I mentioned seeing these ships often in Stornoway Harbour, particularly the "Westra", "Jura" and "Minna". We got on really well and to cut all the drivel out of a long story I later casually asked if he had any ship's plans of any of them. He said he did and would I like to see them? About a week later he handed me a thick blue book and sho' nuff, in the back was the plans to the Jura. I got permission to copy them but by now his curiosity was piqued and he asked why I wanted them. Not seeing the huge hole right in front of my two left feet I explained that when the company wasn't running my backside into the ground with work I played Flight Sim (X-Plane 11) and built scale models. I would try and scale the plans down and try to build a scale model of the Jura. Having seen some of the excellent builds on here I thought I'd give it a try. Nowt wrong with that, but this where the two left feet and the big hole came into it... In a sheer attack of Muppetry, Kermit here opened his daft gob and said, "Would you like one too?" His face lit up and he said "I would absolutely love one!" I didn't panic too much then but when I got home and opened them out the plans were A0 size so about 5' x 4'. "Oh", I thought "This could be fun getting to the right scale". I tried photographing the plans but they were very faint. I had another mate who had a mate who managed to get the plans scanned on to PDF format. "Yaaaay!" I thought, "This might actually work". They were almost as faint as the photos and whilst they were a bit straighter than my photo efforts they still had a slight skew to them so it took a bit of time and photo editing to get them straight. As I only have an A4 printer I used Windows Snip tool to cut the scans into bite size chunks and paste them into Word so I could print them of to stick to whatever medium I decided to build the model in. I have scratchbuilt a few items in the past as per below: 1/35 Bristol Bloodhound 1/35 "Whippet with guts". Emhar Whippet with scratchbuilt engine and interior) 1/144 Whaler my Dad worked on back in the 1950s. I built this for him and used the hull from the Revell North Sea Trawler and the boats from 144 HMS Discovery (I think), all the rest was scratchbuilt: And a wee 1/350 scale WW2 HMT minehunter: And this is what the "Jura" looked like: Sorry, it's been so long since I last posted pics I'm having trouble remembering how to get them to the right size. I'm not too worried about scratchbuilding the Jura (although I have serious Muppet issues measuring anything, or cutting anything straight and circles become squares) BUT... It will be for someone that knows the ship intimately and will spot any mistakes instantly. And now, enough waffle - let the "fun" begin...
  23. A prototype from 1917 two were built this is the second in its penultimate form. The final machine had staggered wingspans on all four wings. Scratchbuilt in 1/48. The Pup is also a scratch build shown for comparison.
  24. Came across this in one of my aviation books and just couldn’t resist the general oddness. So consider it commenced. I’ve scaled up the sketches and hope to be cutting plastic soon.
  25. And here we go yet again. I built a Sternail about eight or so years ago for a friend in Saudi. As far as I know it's still somewhere in the Middle East. Must be about time to build one for myself. And not just any old Sternail either. This time I'm doing a two seater. BTW, What's a Sternail? I can post this one here because it's the one I built. At rest here in a garden just outside Riyadh. I've been stockpiling kit bits for quite some time, some were earmarked for this build. I did get a Hind off the bay but it turned out to be too small, so I've rethought the nose. Here's a sketch I made eight years ago. It shows how I built the last one and I'll do the same this time. A basic wooden frame covered with plasticard. (And filler!). Not my model but it shows the size of the beast. This is 1/35th scale BTW. You may notice the T-55 tank turrets holding thrusters at the rear. I don't have any this time. But I did have a couple of King Tiger turrets in a spares box. Go with what ya got! I bought some scrap Airfix Steam engines off the bay a while ago. On the far side of the top here is a wheel from a Battle of Britain class while closer to you in the piston assembly? from a Mogul. Other parts are mostly ex tank. Except this bit. The back. It's the tender rear plate upside down. Now if an X wing can have a loco fire box at the back, then I can use this bit! More train and tank bits. This side will be the lower one. This is the front. Tank fender, the rest of the tender rear and half leaf springs from an engine. Another view of the top. I've filled a couple of the holes on that big wheel and still need to rub it down. The brass rod above it isn't yet glued in place. The two turrets/Thruster housings. The side nearest you will be the upper one. Obviously as the turrets were identical the big wheel won't be uppermost on both. Ah well. I said the Hind wasn't going to cut it. (Unless I can find a cheap 1/48th Hind quickly). Back around 1984, when I was in Germany, I built a 1/32nd Puma. Having worked on them at Odiham I put a lot into it. It's been in a box for decades now and time (and my then building skills) haven't been kind to it. So it's being reused on this build as the nose section. It's a bit wide as is so I'll dismantle it further and cut out 10mm or so from the centreline. And, after a very enjoyable Sunday, mostly in the Mancave, this is where I'm at. I've asked in Wanted for a 1/48th F-14 or F-15 fuselage to use in this but no joy so far. I may have a way of getting along without it but it won't be so easy. Next up it's time to look at cutting some wood for the basic framework. As always, Comments, questions and suggestions are welcome. Thanks for looking, Pete
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