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Found 3 results

  1. Junkers Ju.88A-4 & A-5 Wheel Sets 1:32 & 1:48 Halberd Models Halberd Models’ recent flexible resin tyre sets require a slightly different method of construction to standard resin wheels, so I’ll refer you back to my initial review in 2019 here, which explains the process and design ethos in more detail. It also has a link to a video that shows the process fully, so if you’re unsure about how to use flexible resin tyres it’s worth a read. The assemblies are a drop-in replacement for the kit parts, so they should glue straight onto the landing gear axles, but it's always wise to test and adjust as necessary, as you'll be using either epoxy or super-glue to attach them because resin doesn't adhere with styrene glue. The tyres will deform slightly under weight, just enough to give them a more realistic look, but not so much that they'll look in dire need of more air before the next mission. Ju.88A-4 “Continental” Wheel Set (3233) This set is designed for the big Revell kit, which has been available for a while now, and this one is getting treated to a set of new wheels. Arriving in the by now familiar box, there are six resin hub parts on two casting blocks, plus three tyres – two main and one nose. Construction involves liberating the resin from their undercut base either with a razor saw or motor tool, then cutting the spoked centres out of the tyres and smoothing the inner face with a burr chucked into a motor tool. Each main wheel has a thick rear part with a deep hole in the centre, and a stepped front hub face, while the nose nose-wheel has two hub parts as you’d expect, over which you slip the tyre. They’re best glued with super glue (CA), and the wheels can be painted with latex based acrylic paints if necessary. Ju.88A-5 Early Type Wheel Set (4832) This set has a huge range of models it can be applied to with a little adjustment of the axle hole being the only possibility. They arrive in the same box as their larger sibling, and inside are ten resin parts that allow the modeller a choice of two types of hub, with and without a vented outer rim. Choose the correct parts after checking your references, and glue each hub half into the tyres using the groove in the rim to guide you, checking the scrap diagrams for the correct orientation of the tyres on the ground. The little tail wheels are built in the same way, but with one style of hub. Detail is excellent both on the hubs and tyres at either scale, and with sympathetic painting they should far outstrip that of the kit parts. Highly recommended. They’re currently being sold direct to customers via their Facebook page and through their distributors worldwide. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Bf.110C-2/C-7 Photo-Etch & Mask Sets (for Revell 04961) 1:32 Eduard Revell's recently re-released boxing of the excellent Dragon kit got the once-over from us here not too long ago, and very nice it was too. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail beyond what styrene is capable of in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior C-2 & C-7 (32950 & 32951) Two frets are included in each set, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. The bare frets only differ in their numbering, while the plated and painted frets have subtle differences in the main instrument panel. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and side consoles are the primary parts on the painted set, with new rudder pedals; throttle quadrant; gun-sight with a small slip of clear acetate; additional instrumentation; canopy internal structure and magazine grab-handles also supplied. The C-7 set has the extended panel to the lower edge, plus a set of additional instrument front for the radio cluster. Bf.110C-2 Interior (32950) Bf.110C-7 Interior (32951) Seatbelts STEEL (33225) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. The set can be used for both sub-types, and include crew belts for all three seats with only the pilot getting a four-point harness, the other two getting lap-type belts. The pilot also benefits from separate comfort pads under the buckles. Exterior C-2/C-7 (32443) This larger bare brass set contains some important upgrades such as additional structure and skin parts for the main landing gear bays; a more in-scale D/F loop for the spine; bracing straps between each fin of the C-2's bombs; brake hoses; four realistic hinge-points for each of the main gear bay doors along with end-detail and the delicate links of the retraction mechanism. Finally, the twin-tails are each given trim-tab actuators to replace the chunky moulded-in representations. Masks Tface (JX238) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape and arriving in a larger ziplok bag due to the size, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of interior and interior canopy masks tailored to fit the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. This will be especially useful if you are using the interior set above, as you will have some additional detail to show off in there by the time it comes to painting. If you're closing up the canopy however, you can also just get the external masks that will still make the job easier. Tface Masks (JX238) External Canopy Masks (JX237) Review sample courtesy of
  3. TopDrawings 78 Junkers Ju.88C (9788366148444) Kagero Publishing via Casemate UK The Ju-88 was designed as a schnellbomber in the mid-30s, and at the time it was faster than current fighter designs, so it was predicted that it could infiltrate, bomb and escape without being intercepted. That was the theory anyway. By the time WWII began in the west, fighters had caught up with the previously untouchable speed of the 88, and it needed escorting to protect it from its Merlin equipped opponents. It turned out to be a jack of all trades however, and was as competent as a night fighter, dive bomber or doing reconnaissance as it was bombing Britain. They even popped a big gun on the nose and sent it against tanks and bombers, with variable success. The C series aircraft were supposed to be primarily heavily armed fighters or ground attack, fitted with a collection of extra guns in a metal nose. Once Allied bombers started appearing over Germany however, they were quickly retasked with night fighter duties, in which they found their ultimate role. The specification retained the gondola under the nose, but this was often removed in the field to reduce weight and increase top speed, all of which gave them an edge over an unmodified airframe. After design was completed, the C-4 was the first to enter production, with 120 made, split between new builds and conversions of the A-5 on which they were based. With the addition of radar the C-6 took over from the C-4, and with a solid nose and radar "whiskers" it was found to be a capable night fighter. The C-6b was fitted with either FuG 202 Lichtenstein BC or later a FuG 212 Lichtenstein C-1 radar, and was replaced later by the 6C that also sported the deadly Schräge-muzik upward firing 20mm cannons. We have kits in almost every scale from 1:144 upwards, some old, some new such as the ICM kits in 1:48 with most major and some minor manufacturers getting in on the act, as other people's Ju.88s don't make money for them, and it's a popular subject (especially with me). The TopDrawings series majors on scale plans, which is the main thrust, but also includes a little background information, some pertinent profiles, and often a bonus of decals or masks targeted at the subject matter in hand. With this edition, you get a sheet of folded A3 plans printed on both sides with overhead views of various airframes including partials of the gondola area in 1:72, plus a larger A2 sheet also printed on both sides with side and overhead drawings and cross-sections in 1:48 along the length of the fuselage and wings. The book is written in English on the left of the page, with Polish on the right, which translates to top and bottom for the captions to the various drawings within. The book itself is bound in a card cover and has 24 pages, and the rear cover devoted to additional profiles of a C-2 and C-6. The first half of the plans show the variants from the C-1 to C-6 including the gondola-free C-5 that has a much sleeker look, especially from the front. After this the colour profile with four views are book-ended with contemporary photographs and a C-6 profile, plus the additional C-6 profile and a C-2 on the rear cover. After the break there is another set of plans continuing the C-6 sub-variants such as the night fighters, with some head/tail-on and fuselage scrap diagrams into the bargain. The final five pages show side profiles with the changes between the variants visible, showing the subtle changes and a thimble-nose fitted to a C-6. Throughout the book, there are numerous smaller diagrams that show the nose section without the wing and engine nacelles blocking the view, just the wing root stub visible. Conclusion These books are essential for the modeller that enjoys comparing their models against scale plans, and wants them to be as accurate as possible, with the separate large scale plans quite useful, especially if you model in 1:48 or have a large blemish on a wall that could be beautified by posting the plans over it to enjoy every time you pass. Review sample courtesy of
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