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Found 134 results

  1. Roden is to release a 1/144th Convair B-36B (early) Peacemaker kit - ref. 347 Source: https://www.facebook.com/RodenKits/posts/3667839006565825 Box art V.P.
  2. Roden is to release a 1/32nd Boeing/Stearman PT-13 Kaydet kit - ref. 631 Source: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/framemodels.htm V.P.
  3. Roden is to release in 2016 a 1/144th Lockheed C-141B Starlifter kit - ref.325 Source: http://www.frogmodelaircraft.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=323 V.P.
  4. This is the 1/72 Roden Fokker D.VII (OAW Mid) kit, finished in the markings of Ltn. Rudolf Stark when he was commander of Jasta 35b in August 1918. Plenty has been written about Roden's Fokker D.VII kits and much of it is pretty uncomplimentary; most of it is also true. Although it looks very well detailed in the box and significantly more delicate than Eduard's example, very little fits without widening, narrowing, shortening, lengthening, filling, fiddling and fettling. The lozenge decals are brittle and unyielding to Microsol or Mr. Mark Softer, and even after plenty of both was used, along with very warm water, significant pressure was required to get the decals to conform, and that pressure tore and shattered many of the edges necessitating much hand retouching of missing lozenge. Roden's rib tape decals were completely unusable and split into varying lengths on contact with water, even after overcoating with two coats of Future/Kleer on the sheet. Eduard's newly released sheet of rib tapes, while intended for their recent kit, fit the Roden kit quite well, so they were used instead. The remaining Roden decals were variable, with the crosses and personal markings working quite well, and the codes and stencils silvering quite badly. There's around 120 decals on this model and, to be honest, finishing it became a chore about three weeks before actual completion, so the control lines remain unfinished for now and I'll return to them eventually. But the final result is quite pleasing and it looks good in the cabinet alongside Udet's 'Lo' and Berthold's winged sword examples, both of which I made years ago from the Esci kit. I built it alongside Roden's 1/72 Fokker Dr.I, finished in Vzfw Ulrich Neckel's Jasta 12 markings from April 1918. This kit isn't as bad as the D.VII with respect to fit and decals (no lozenge for example) but it's no shining example of state-of-the-art and was less frustrating but not completely trouble-free. Triplane aficionados may note that the upper support struts do not match the location of the lower struts. This was an error of my own making when I failed to increase the length of the cabane struts (they're about 2-3 mm too short out of the box), which threw out the wing geometry. Once again, I'll live with it; it looks OK in the cabinet. There are less frustrating kits of both of these aeroplanes offered by Revell and Eduard; choose one of them if you want a trouble-free build. But with better lozenge, care in building and a bit more planning, both of these can build quite nicely. I have a few more in the stash, especially the D.VII and I'm sure I'll build more down the track. Cheers, Jeff
  5. Roden is to release a 1/144th Focke Wulf Fw.200 Condor kit - ref. 340 Source: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/framemodels.htm V.P.
  6. Roden is to release a 1/144th Heinkel He.111H-6 kit - ref. 341 Source: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/framemodels.htm V.P.
  7. Douglas DC-7C, JA6301, 'City of San Francisco', operated on the intercontinental routes in the late 1950s by Japan Air Lines. This is the Roden kit in 1/144, built oob. It has lovely box art, and the fit was reasonable in most places. Just remember to use lots of nose weight! The decals take ages to soak and were prone to cracking, but not so bad that I couldn't slide together. I used spray cans for the two main colours and Humbrol 40 for the landing gear and wheel wells. I ran out of e-z line so only one wire done so far! Light weathering with Flory dark dirt wash.
  8. Time to start another WWI lovely. Pics of the bits and box art. Thanks for looking. Stephen
  9. With two other running GB builds I shouldn’t be doing this, but those two are in the painting stage and since that’s boring, here goes. The kit, Roden’s fabulous little ship’s Camel: As the title suggests, I’ll be building the N6602 of HMS Furious (though the plane seems to also have served on half of the navy’s plane carrying ships) which is on the bottom here with the strange diamond pattern: Some cockades seem out of register Roden says PC10 and linen, but WnW says that maybe, just maybe it instead was PC12 with light blue undersides, and that is quite tempting since all my other British Great war planes are painted PC10. The fuselage has some fine detail, both inside and outside. A bit of flash but I have never seen the big deal with that since it is so easily removeable: You get no less than 3 engines, one Bentley, one Clerget and one le Rhone - N6602 had a Bentley. I wanted to build Joseph Jacob’s Fokker with a captured Camel engine so some spares will come to good use. The engines are provably the nicest and most detailed injection moulded rotary engines I’ve come across: And I bought some goodies. Wicker seats: Plus seat belts from uncle Eduard.
  10. After reading so many bad words about Roden’s D.VII I just had to try for myself. Unfortunately I can concur, but although nothing fits the parts are wonderfully detailed and you get a beautiful spare engine and two spare propellors. You might notice the absence of rib bands: I made a firm decision on keeping it OOB, and those bands disintegrated. The machine is that of August Hartmann of Jasta 30, 1918. He was fortunate enough to get wounded very early in his service and thus survive the war. His colleagues later described their planes as orange, while British reports call them brown. I therefore mixed up a colour that you could describe as either without getting your eyesight questioned. One tip regarding construction: I’ve often seen people say about the outboard N-struts, that the front one is too short and the back too long. I found the front one to be correct: put it lying on the drawing (manual is in 1/72) with the frontal lower end in the correct position, then pivot it around that point until the upper two points are somewhat correct. Then just trim the excess. This should righten the otherwise forward-tilted upperwings into the correct alignment (glue the outboard struts first, then the wing, then the remaining struts - some of which will NOt fit). edit: Another free tip. If you plan to build any Roden D.VII with lozenge camoflague, do yourself a favour and buy an aftermarket set! The stuff is extremely brittle and the only way to make it stuck is to drench it in microsol to fuse it into the plastic (and then it gets *really* stuck - trust me, I first put the lower side camo on the upper side: fortunately Roden supplies enough for two and a half aircraft).
  11. Hi, here's the latest build using the opportunity afforded by furlough(!) Not an easy kit to put together (but I am just an assembler rather than a proper modeller!) with plenty of superglue and filler used. Decals from Authentic decals which were ok but not as good as other aftermarket decals I've used. Hope it's of interest (yes she's a tail sitter btw) oh and the Krystal Klear is still curing in some of the pics 20200502_173917 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200502_173902 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200502_173852 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200502_173720 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200502_173705 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200502_173627 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200502_173947 by bryn robinson, on Flickr
  12. More precisely, here's one I started making around 14-15 years ago. It sat in the stash about a third finished until I pulled it out earlier this year, opened the Windsock Datafile on the Fokker Dr.I and spotted the colour profile of this aeroplane. It represents a Jasta 11 machine at Lechelle airfield in March 1918. The colour of the rear fuselage is speculative and, according to the Datafile, could equally be pale yellow. I liked the simplicity of Fokker turquoise so went with that option. The kit is the Roden 1/32nd Fokker Dr.I, built mainly from the box but with the addition of leading edge stacking pads and rivets around the cowling, both done with a punch and die, under-fuselage stitching made from small pieces of stretched sprue, and lead foil seatbelts with buckles from plastic card and some old etched brass from a Flightpath (I think) generic buckle set. The rigging and control lines are done with INFINI Model 1/32 Aero Black Rigging and Albion Alloys TB2 turnbuckles. Markings are a combination of the kit decals (many of which disintegrated in water and had to be pieced back together on the model) for the data placard, propeller logos and national markings, and masking for the pilot's personal markings on the rear fuselage. The bicycle is from the Tamiya 1/35 German bike riders set, as is the slightly modified figure, with a few uniform changes to make him look a 'little' more World War One. He's far from accurate but works quite well I think. The Alsatian was gifted to me many years ago by a fellow modeller when I originally set out to do this vignette. The barrels are solid resin but I have no idea of the manufacturer. Paints are Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo acrylics for external colours, and Humbrol enamels for details. The groundwork is done with Wilko brown wood filler, kitty litter and some fine railway ballast, all fixed into place with Johnson Kleer then painted, washed and dry-brushed. The grass is Jordan scatter fixed with diluted PVA, and the weeds are Heki moss. The groundwork was then flat-coated once the other fixed elements were glued into place. The vignette itself may not be accurate but it does look good in the case and it saves another model from the shelf of doom. Hope you like it. Cheers, Jeff
  13. Hi Guys, due to the lockdown in France, I had to look at the bottom of my stash to find something exotic to build. I had bought the Roden kit of the Rolls-Royce armored car many years ago, but I was always frightened by the number of parts and low quality of the molding of some pieces. I usually build 1/48 scale aicraft, so this was quite a big change for me. I found a build by Andy Moore on this forum of the Meng rendition, which I tried to follow regarding the colors. Since I did not have access to AK real colors because of lockdown, I used custom mixes with Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. I used Mig Ammo premixed washes for the weathering. The small base is done with a sheet of foam board, covered with sand colored tile grout. The rocks and stones are two different grades of cat litter. Just for fun I added a milestone which is most probably incorrect for the place and period, but since this was meant as a relaxing build, I thought I could be forgiven. I hope you will like it, best regards to all, Christian.
  14. Although the "Ole Bill" version of this kit has made an appearance in BM I don't thing anyone has done a WIP on the London General Omnibus version. To start the usual box and sprue shots Should be an interesting build. The decorations are a small waterslide decal sheet and two paper sheets of posters and destinations. The glazing is the small acetate sheet at bottom left.
  15. After the 1/32nd kits (link) Roden is to release in Autumn 2018 a 1/48th Cessna L-19/O-1 Bird Dog "Asian Service" kit - ref. 409 Source: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/framenews.htm Box art V.P.
  16. Hi Guys This set is now available for the Roden kit, offering great more strength and a little more detail than the kit parts. These are in limited numbers for now as the brass casting company has now closed, due to the current situation. see the link below https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/product/cessna-l-19-o-1-bird-dog All stay safe and enjoy your modelling, Ali
  17. Hello everyone! Set of Ukrainian company RODEN. I liked the set. No flash, weighted or other defects. The abutment of parts is good. The development of details is also on top. I have experience in assembling “sewing machines”. The painfully complex candibober was obtained during the construction process. The biplane box, even frayed, is a very delicate design. I had to drill the ends of the wings, use needles for a more durable dock. And the assembly order did not comply with the instructions. I wanted it to be possible, but I managed to do it. I would also like to dwell on the decals. We lay down easily, without problems on a glossy surface. However, it was surprising that silver appeared around the edges. When trying to bring her to mind, the cockade with the case generally just detached from it. Well, if so, I think I’ll remove the decals, make stencils, spray cockades and numbers. But it was not there. The rooms from the building did not want to be completely removed. I had to polish all my imitation. The wings were not touched, imitation of nervous tissue was applied in order to reduce the effect of applying matte varnish. As a rule, the instructions should include Liberty, but in fact the manufacturer is Rolls-Royce Eagle IV. I had to dodge. The interior of the model, despite the fact that it is quite difficult to see on the model, for stretching, pulling, and other “rigging”, raises concerns once again the brothers in the hands of the model. Plant materials were made of spandex, made of 0.3 mm copper rings, glued into plastic, painted with acrylic and oil paints. Stand - a free installation of a slice of a pear, slats, sifted pebbles, sand. Painted in oil. A model was assembled in the evenings from November last year, much of what was then remained non-embodied. I was satisfied. Photo at the end - construction, if anyone is interested. Paints were used by Mr.Hobby, Valejiio, art oil times of the USSR. Happy viewing. Regards, Mikhail
  18. The future 1/144th Lockheed C-5B Galaxy kit - ref.330 - is now quoted as "in processing" in the Roden homepage. Also programmed C-5M Super Galaxy - ref.332 Source: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/models1.htm V.P.
  19. Since this is now taking most of my modelling time I thought I'd post a WIP thread. I'm building a Roden 1/48 DH4a in Aircraft Transport & Travel Livery Blue and Silver although opinion is divided as to wether it should be Black and Silver. I like hte blue so that's what I'm going to run with. First bit of assembley. It's a nice kit with sharp mouldings but everything is very thin and I had a lot of issues with alignments and fits. Not for beginners. Some prelimary paint work and breaking out the oil paints for some wood effects. Teeny tiny eylets (1mm OD) attached to the undercariage for rigging wires Rigging of same in progress Wheels on definitely needs a bit of cleaning up and retouching. Vertcal tail added. I'd have put the upper desk on the Cat (my avatar btw, hes 20 so I suppose I have to forgive him his foibles) knocked it off the desk and I can't find it. Not the rug in the room I model in is a very short pile so it's more space time anomaly than carpet monster. However as the Roden kit comes with all the parts for the DH4 bomber ( and about 10 other variants) , if I can't find the decking I can always use the one from that version with just a little cutting.
  20. C-5M Super Galaxy (332) 1:144 Roden The competition to design the next generation of oversize load carrying aircraft began in the early 60s with concepts and proposals, with Lockheed eventually winning the competition due to the projected lower total cost of the project (ha!). The Lockheed design had the T-tail that we see today, and a quartet of high-bypass GE engines were selected to give the required range and thrust, but very soon after the type entered service, problems occurred that meant expensive changes were needed to make the fleet airworthy again. Cost overruns were also an issue, and this caused Lockheed some serious financial concerns that threatened their stability, as well as questions as to the honesty of some of the decisions and their makers. The –B model made some improvements to the original design, but the major improvement was the Reliability Enhancement and Re-engining Program (RERP) discussed late in the last millennium and implemented in the early 2000s, which put many existing airframes through the rebuilding process, giving them new energy-efficient engines, a modern glass cockpit and improved avionics. This also improved many other aspects of the airframe and gave over 20% additional power, increasing their cargo capacity accordingly. Designated the C-5M and given the name Super Galaxy to differentiate them, these are the airframes that you will see in service today, side-by-side with the C-17 and Hercules fleets. The Super Galaxy is expected to be in service with the US Air Force until 2040 at the earliest, and attempts are already underway to further enhance the aircraft's performance and efficiency. The Kit There have been a few kits in various scales over the years, but nothing recent that you could consider mainstream in a reasonable scale and in injection styrene. Until Roden announced their kit a few years back, and now we have the latest variant of this behemoth, the Super Galaxy. The kit arrives in a long box by necessity due to the length of the fuselage, with a nice painting of a C-5M heading toward us in landing configuration. Inside is a bunch of mid grey styrene, although not as much as you might expect and as many have already noted, there is no interior other than the front cockpit, which has been carried over into this edition. There are twelve sprues of varying sizes, plus the two fuselage halves, which have been removed from their sprues and have a little flash around the cockpit opening and the gear bay apertures. They're the work of moments to remove however, and of no concern. There is also a small clear sprue, a fairly large decal sheet, and of course the instruction booklet along with a separate painting and markings sheet. Construction begins with the engines, which have fan details moulded in, and are handed in pairs as you'd expect. They are then shown being fitted to the wings, which are each made up from top and bottom halves, and have the slat actuators slotted in along the leading edge, and an elevator trapped between the two halves. There are some shallow sink-marks along the trailing edges of the wings where the flap bay upstands are moulded, and these will need filling and sanding back to improve the look of the model. The flap housings are all built from two halves that are glued together with a butt-joint, and will need to be fitted and marshalled carefully to avoid getting them in the wrong order. Take careful note of which parts go where before you attempt the task, and cut off the mounting pips of the flap sections if you are depicting them stowed. You may also need to fill the holes for the deployed flaps too, depending on whether they stand proud of the flaps when installed. The Galaxy has lots of wheels to spread its substantial load over the runway, with 28 in total, all made up from two halves each, so plenty of seam-scraping unless you decide to get some resin replacements. There are four main gear legs and one nose gear leg, with each main gear leg having six wheels on the bogie, and a strut that fits into a hole in the centre, which could well be a weak-point, and you must ensure that you don't cut off the pin on the strut, which has a slightly fuzzy join with the sprue gate. The gear bays are made up comprising a large roof with moulded-in detail, to which is added a quantity of ribs and stringers, plus bulkheads closing off the bay from the rest of the fuselage. The main bay is a single area, and has bay door hinges added to the sides before it is installed in the fuselage later in the build. Before this happens, the large T-tail is made up from two halves for the fin, and two more parts for each elevator fin, plus the elevator itself, which both plug into slots in the side of the aerodynamic fairing at the top of the tail. Finally, the rudder is glued together and fitted into the rear of the fin. The fuselage is a bit on the large side, and due to this and the thickness of the walls, there is a quantity of distortion in the underside of my example, which should be easy enough to fix with some test-fitting, careful gluing and perhaps some tabs added to one side or the other to prevent them diving past each other. The cockpit, nose gear and main gear bay platforms are all glued into place beforehand, and six holes are drilled into the fuselage top for a pair of towel-rail antennas. The location of these are given using two scrap diagrams, which make a lot more sense once you realise you are looking at them from above. For the benefit of alignment, they're probably best done with the fuselage together. A number of clear portholes are supplied on the clear sprue, which are inserted from the inside, and will benefit from sanding flush if they remain proud (plus polishing back to clear) and a dot of masking fluid before you forget where they are. With the fuselage together, it can be top-and-tailed with the nose and the tail cone, which reminds us that there's little interior detail other than the cockpit and bays, which is a shame when you consider its sole raison d'être. The joint for the "visor" that allows cargo access to the front is engraved deeper than the other surrounding panel lines, so if anyone's feeling brave that makes the cut easier, but there's a lot more work still to do. The canopy is simply inserted into the slot in the nose, and take care to test-fit this before gluing it, as an element of flash on either part could cause it to stand forward, ruining the slope of the nose. The instructions show the landing gear and their bay doors added at this stage, but as the wings are yet to be joined, I'd be leaving those until much later for fear of shearing those joins on the main gear. The wings are as yet without their slats, which are a single part each that affixes to the arms that were installed during main construction. You might notice that these are attached by a very thin layer of styrene all along the sprue, which is presumably to obtain minimum short-shots from the mould, so take care slicing them free with your weapon of choice. Then the whole assemblies are inserted into the big slots on the fuselage, which have internal buttresses to help keep the wings from sagging, although I'd also consider a little tab on the inside of the seam between the wings too, just as a belt and braces exercise. Ba-dum tish! It's done. Now for some colour. Markings At the end of the instruction booklet there is an overhead diagram showing where all the miles of walkway lines go, which augments the A4 colour sheet that only has enough room for two side profiles and a partial underside diagram. There's only one decal option, which is a modern grey airframe, as follows: S/n 86-0022 Air Mobility Command, 60th AMW, 349th AWM, Travis Air Base, 2007 The decals are printed anonymously, and although they're fit for purpose, they're a little fuzzy under magnification, and the highly visible white decal for the refuelling receptacle has been printed slightly offset on my copy, but I can probably fix that with a scalpel and a dot of white paint. The American flags are also ever-so-slightly off too, but this can be fixed with a sharp blade. Check your copy when it arrives, and ensure you'll be able to use them. Conclusion This is a great subject and as long as you keep your wits about you, test-fitting everything and adjusting things as you go, paying careful attention to the instructions, you'll end up with a good model. If you approach it expecting it to fall together however, you'll have a lot less fun. Sure, there's a bit of flash hither and yon, but that's pretty simple to remove, and is a lot better than having short-shot parts. It would have been nice to have a little interior, the decals could have been a little better, but overall I'm still very glad to have it, and look forward to building it. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  21. Roden is to release a 1/144th Douglas C-133A Cargomaster kit - ref.333 Source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/greenmats/permalink/2123463997713131/ Box art V.P.
  22. Roden is to release a 1/144th Boeing 307 Stratoliner kit - ref. 339 Source: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/framemodels.htm V.P.
  23. Hallo again This is my DH2 from Roden in 1/32. Here is the rigging a particular thing. I designed the strut support plates, on CAD. In cooperation with Cooperstate Models, they produced these parts. I did this design work voluntarily. It was the idea, to create for all WW1 model a/c these strut support plates. To achieve easier rigging. Moreover, to prevent drilling the wing. On the same way, I did the Be2c in 1/48 and the DH2 in 1/48. However, in the state of assembling the DH2 the troubles did not show up. The strut support plates I glued with CA on the wing. As I need them, for the static rigging. The gluing of struts I did with CA, because of the pin diameter & hole diameter from the Roden kit. In this case, the DH2 I got along because I did all gluing with CA. Well, I have to mention, that the assembly was very difficult. Today I improved the etched parts. I build the Be12 in 1/48, but here I failed. I glued the etched parts with CA and the struts with Tamiya glue. I did not get along. The gluing process is the problem. As a verdict: As long as you only use CA, it is ok. However, here I see the problem for bigger scales. With CA, there is no chance for drying alignment or a dry fit since you need bigger holes and the struts may not be in place for more than a second. I have no solution yet for gluing the struts with Tamiya glue; so I gave up. Maybe some days I have an idea, but not yet. Happy modelling
  24. This is my contribution, tricky paintwork and lots of rigging otherwise it will be straight OOB!
  25. Roden is to release in 2019-2020, 1/144th: - ref. 334 - Convair CV-340 - ref. 338 - Convair C-131 Cosmopolitan V.P.
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