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  1. Long before I was came on and lowered the tone, I think there was a GB for anything that wasn't injection molded plastic. I'm proposing Vol II, maybe the No PIMP GB that's No Injection Molded Plastic. Or to be more positive about it, wood, etch, white metal card, vac-form ... Having just started on a resin car in the 10th Anniversary GB, I've discovered a whole new world, and I was inspired and awed by what @pheonix did with wood and metal in the floatplane GB. Plus all the amazing vac-form work. And I do have to card buildings that I have no reason to build unless a GB comes along. What I'm thinking is.. Any model you like, so wiffy, sci-fi, fantasy even more conventional subjects, no holds barred in any medium you like but the injection molded element can't be more than 25%. I'm putting that in because in the my case, I'd replace the rainwater goods with AM injection molded and to allow for raiding the scrap box for similar fiddly details for others. Then standard GB rules apply and fun to be had along with new experiences; after all why should New Media always mean Twitter etc? Any takers/ thoughts etc? Hosts/ co-hosts/ founts of wisdom are offering their services and I've found an emoji with a tenuous link to host/ hospitality in , having first rejected the hospital one; though that might be needed later So far Me (I suppose I should) Exdraken Mottlemaster Philp Black Knight BritJet CliffB Jb65rams dud_gan_ainm bootneck zebra sleeperservice Robert Stuart Angus Tura Tom Probert Kallisti Romeo Alpha Yankee Jockney Gorby helios16v rafalbert Heather Kay torbjorn Arniec DaveyGair RayS Panther II Tim R-T-C dnl42 Trickyrich Pin Jinxman Tzulscha
  2. "Snailien,In space no one can hear you eat your greens." Dont normally go for Novelty items,but couldnt resist this little fella
  3. Hi All, Quick question, does any one have any experience with parts from Big Blue Boy? I've a 1/350 Hood in the 'stash' and keep an eye out for buys for her while I work on other stuff. I've seen a resin turret set to correct the awful trumpeter ones from a company called Big Blue Boy, it includes turned barrels and blast bags. I've had a look on the Hood website and a search on here but can't find any real reviews as to if they're worth the money. The only other thought was Fkyhawks turret set but I'd then need to find turned barrels to fit blast bags, Any input gratefully received Thanks Sam
  4. After my brief flirtation on the Frog group build(Who am i kidding,I loved building 1/72 scale aircraft) I have returned with a couple of Alien figure re-paints,figures are about 4.5 ins tall,cast in resin,all base coated and re-painted Base colours based on the film of origin. Alien 1979 Aliens (1986) All together with the Alien 3 creature
  5. On the 25th June 1955 at Prestwick the Scottish Aviation Twin Pioneer first took to the air. Some 4 months earlier a few miles away in an Ayrshire hospital I made my entrance to the world. So with such close geographical gestation and delivery to the world a Twin Pin seems appropriate. However, my relationship with this aircraft is not just timing and geography. Although my father was a PO airframe articifer in the Royal Navy when I was born he finished his term in the Fleet Air Arm not much long afterwards. He then went to work at Scottish Aviation where amongst other aircraft he worked upon was the Twin Pioneer. So the fact my dad helped build a number of the Twin Pioneers makes this a must do aircraft for me. I bought the Combat Kits Twin Pioneer at Telford last year as I had always wanted to build one as a tribute to my father. I know Valom have just introduced an injection moulded version but it is quite expensive and I suspect it will not just fall together, so I'll stick with the resin kit. I think this is the old Magna kit but on opening the box the resin looks much more refined. Hopefully it should go together with epoxy and cyano with minimal amounts of swearing. On opening the box there are two large bags of resin parts and two small bags of parts. A further bag has some white metal parts and a bag of clear resin parts for the transparencies. Hurray! No vac formed canopies. Instructions are basic but there's a great transfer sheet With transfers for 6 versions, 4 RAF, 1from the Empire Test Pilots School and a civilian version.
  6. This set convert Revell Bf109G-6 into Bf109G-6/AS with standard oil cooler. The set is cast from polyurethane resin. For the photo is painted Tamiya AS-12.
  7. Hello All, A new company called Rescue Models preparing some really interesting items. Many new resin accessories in 1:72, 1:144 and other scales too: https://www.facebook.com/rescuemodels/ Check out the renders, the products will be available soon (hopefully). Cheers, Peter
  8. Here's couple of shots of Tywin Lannister (Lord of Lion by Nuts Planet) - my final GoT figure. Just finished him tonight and he'll go on display with Tyrion and Daeneris at the weekend. Tough choice for my next one, as I have four wonderful contenders - Mirai (from the AD.2074/Ghost in the Shell range) ; The Sea Wolf (Jurgen Prochnow in Das Boot) both by Life Miniatures : Lilith Bust by Nocturna Models or Abyssal Warlord by Scale75. But I may take a break from figures for a while and complete some other projects that I already have in progress (1/35th Takom WWI Mk. I Male Tank; 1/48th Hasegawa Typhoon Mk.I; 1/12th Tamiya JPS Lotus Mk.III) - all of which are for customers or friends. Thanks for looking Kev
  9. Yet another field vehicle to pose with 1/72 models, this time a fuel truck. This resin kit by Classic Plane Diorama Resin comes with the parts bagged in three compartments. The cast is smart and refined, and removal of the parts from their pouring blocks easy. The detail is very good and goes to depict for example the bolts on the wheel hub, the undercarriage, the exhaust and many other minute things. The break-down is sensible and assembly proceeds without major hitches. My only two nitpickings: a) As it invariably happens with extremely delicate resin parts, a few came already bent and/or broken in the bags. The curse of delicate resin. b) The instructions are poorly printed, there is no parts map, exploded view or assembly guide. The photos are of bad quality, grainy, and barely serve as a guide. You may struggle to realize what goes where. Other than that, this kit can be built into an interesting and detail-filled model, useful as a complement for "ambience" airplane model photography. I could find no other photo of this specific vehicle on a long search through the Net. The manufacturer states that it can be safely assumed that the vehicle was used on airfields (as well as its other common fueling uses) from 1916, through the 20's and even 30's. I do not find any reason to disagree, having spent hours looking at airfield vehicles and seen all sorts of different arrangements, brands, and adaptations. It took me a couple hours to separate and clean the parts, an hour to assemble the main components, l/2 hour to paint and another 1/2 hour for final assembly. Decals were added in about 20 minutes. Any modeler with some reasonable experience can add this little darling to his or her airfield in a weekend provided some skill and dedication (and no house chores!). Decals by Arctic Decals, and thanks to my dear friend for the gift of the kit! It will be put to good photographic use. In this image I already assembled the main components: Adding a couple things that broke in transit: Addition of MV lenses to the front lights:
  10. Products of Metallic Details is in stock: 1/144 Detailing set for Airbus A319 Set contains photoetch parts for detailing the engines, fold chassis, sensors, winglets, wipers of the aircraft. Recommended for Revell kit. Detailing set for Tu-144 Set contains photoetch parts for detailing the exterior of the aircraft. Recommended for ICM kit. Detailing set for Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner Set contains photoetch parts for detailing the exterior of the aircraft. Recommended for Zvezda kit. 1/48 Detailing set for I-185 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Ark Models Detailing set for Su-2 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Zvezda Detailing set for Po-2/U2 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: ICM Air intake grilles for Su-27 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Academy Detailing set for B-29 Resin & photo etched parts. 4 x Engine, 8 x Compressor exhaust, 2 x Landing gear bays. Recommended for kit: Revell/Monogram Detailing set for He-219 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Tamiya Detailing set for Yak-9 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Modelsvit Detailing set for Folland Gnat T.1 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Airfix Ejection Seat K-36 D/DM Resin & photo etched parts. The set has 2 seats with the possibility to assemble the chairs in variants K-36D and K-36DM. These seats are installed on the aircraft such as the Su-27, MiG-29, Tu-160 etc. Detailing set for Po-2 mod. LNB/VS Resin & photo etched parts. The set contains 2 dashboards for the pilot and navigator for the aircraft Po-2 modifications LNB (light night bomber)and VS (Soviet Air Force plane connection). In addition, the kit contains parts for assembly and device for forming 2 spoked wheels with tires (original size 700x120 mm). Detailing set for Pe-2 Photo etched parts. Recommended for Zvezda kit. Set contains parts for detailing the interior and exterior of the aircraft. Czech hedgehog Kit contains photoetched and resin parts to build 1 Czech hedgehog. The base with the bolts/nuts has a fixture to bend. The thickness of the metal - 0.3 mm. The diameter of the bolt head, nut - 0,86 mm. The bolt is threaded on its end. Detailing set for B-29, flaps Photo etched parts. Recommended for Revell/Monogram kit. Set contains parts for detailing exterior of the aircraft. 2 sheets - 270*126 mm, 1 sheet - 270*70 mm Nose cone for Su-27 The nose cone for model aircraft Su-27 by Academy. Designed for correcting the shape of the nose cone. Nose cone for MiG-23 The nose cone for model aircraft MiG-23 by Trumpeter. Designed for correcting the shape of the nose cone. 1/72 FuG-200 Photo etched parts. Detailing set for Su-27 Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Zvezda Detailing set for T-50 PAK-FA Photo etched parts. Recommended for kit: Zvezda Detailing set for B-29 Resin & photo etched parts. 4 x Engine, 8x Compressor exhaust,2 x Landing gear bays. Recommended for kit: Academy Czech hedgehog Kit contains photoetched and resin parts to build 1 Czech hedgehog. 1/48 & 1/72 Machine gun sights Photo etched parts 1/35 Soviet tanks set 1 Photo etched parts. The universal set for Soviet tanks of the II World War (IS-1, IS-2, SU-100, ISU-152, T-34). Czech hedgehog Kit contains photoetched and resin parts to build 1 Czech hedgehog. The base with the bolts/nuts has a fixture to bend. The thickness of the metal - 0.3 mm. The diameter of the bolt head, nut - 0,86 mm. The bolt is threaded on its end. German grenades M39 and M24 Photo etched and resin parts. Kit contains 5 resin Eihandgranate M39, 5 resin Stielhandgranaten 24, 2 boxes to transport both types of grenades Soviet grenades F1 and RGD-5 Photo etched and resin parts. Kit contains 5 resin grenades F1, 5 resin grenades RGD-5, 4 resin capacity with UZRGM fuses, 2 boxes to transport both types of grenades (14*9 mm) Soon 1/48 B-24 Liberator. Engines Resin parts.4 x Engine Pratt & Whitney R-1830 Twin Wasp, 4 x Supercharger. Number of parts - 148. Recommended for Revell/Monogram kit.
  11. I know this is a naive question but I am intrigued. How are such complex small parts designed for resin reproduction? I continue to be asstounded by the detail produced and woyld love to know how it is acheived. Thanks. Martin
  12. Finally finished my Resin Prentice, Aluminium with flat, Bright spark decals and spare serials. the miscellaneous stenciling silvered even on glossy paint!! the buckled and did the canopy framing with painted masking tape, lets see how long it lasts!!The orange tinted canopy parts were painted in local craft glass- hobby paints. All brush!!. the cockpit came with lots of details, all of course gone now!!
  13. So, I've had this kit from the 90s, a kind Englishman was involved I think!!. Lots of flash, so here are some initial shots.
  14. AIM-120 AMRAAM 1:32 Zactomodels The AIM-120 was developed as a longer-range all-weather air-to-air missile with Beyond Visual Range (BVR) capabilities, entering service as the A model in the early 1990s with the US Navy and Army, as well as a substantial number of other foreign operators. It was upgraded to the B with improved electronics, and later on it was further uprated and fitted with clipped winglets to allow it to fit within the stealthy internal bays of the then-new F-22 Raptor. ZactoModels have taken it upon themselves to create the most accurate AIM-120 in 1:32, and now we have two types to represent the A/B with its pointed fins, and the C after its pruning. The set arrives in a heat-channelled Ziplok bag that holds the parts separate from each other to reduce the chances of damage in transit and in the stash. The instructions are printed on A5 paper, showing all your options, including live and Captive Air Training Missile (CATM) exhausts and nose cones, which require the removal of the front and rear sections of the missile bodies, of which you get two. You also get two trees each of the relevant set of fins for your purchase, either the more pointed ones, or the clipped ones, as mentioned above. Each of these have a small pin moulded in the base that corresponds to holes in the missile body, which you'll just need to arrange at 90o to each other. Each part is highly detailed with all the panel lines, rivets, raised and recessed detail that you could wish for, some of which is more visible under paint, so we've included some of Chris' original photos at the bottom of the review so you can see it all before you cough up your cash. There aren't any decals supplied with the set, but it's likely you will have some in the kit you're putting them on, but on the off chance you don't, Two Bobs decals produce a set. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  15. I have never built a Resin kit and I have bought some from Russia. I have paid for them and have heard no more!!!!!!!! If and when these kits turn up I would like to have built a resin kit so this will be the first. I wonder if Moa has built one of these? Box and instructions. Decals. Kits bits still in their plastic bags. I will take some better shots when the parts are removed from the bags. Thanks for stopping by. Stephen
  16. Hawker Hunter Brass undercarriage set (for Airfix) 1:48 AeroCraft Models By now you've probably noticed there was a Hunter theme going on yesterday. We reviewed the flying surfaces here, and the corrected pylons here, and now it's time to finish the triple with the landing gear, or undercarriage as we sometimes call it. As usual with AeroCraft sets, it arrives in a ziplok bag, with the brass parts within a smaller one to prevent chaffing between the disparate materials. Inside the bag are five brass parts and one resin part. The main gear legs are ostensibly the same as the kit parts only stronger, but the nose gear leg has been strengthened and augmented to improve its accuracy, with the new resin nose wheel of the correct spoked type. The brass parts give you extra strength in that department, and I'm sure everyone's had some kind of gear breakage in the past due to mishandling or weakness in the original design. You will need to remove the casting gates that have already been nipped off, which you can do simply by sanding them smooth with a good quality file. While you're doing that, any slight imperfection and mould seams can be cleaned off too, leaving you with a smart and strong set of gear. The resin wheel is cast within a thin wafer that can be scraped/cut off with a sharp blade, and then any left-overs sanded away with a fine grade stick for a much more detailed and strong nose wheel. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  17. Hawker Hunter Underwing Store Pylons (Airfix) 1:48 AeroCraft Models We've got a new Hunter from Airfix, and it's very nice thank you. It does however have a few foibles, as do all models. If you're planning on using the weapons pylons on your build, you might want to know that the kit pylons are a little undersized and have some top and bottom "flanges" missing from out of the box. You can either fix those yourself if you're minded, or pick up a pleasantly inexpensive set of resin pylons from Ali, which should be pretty much a drop-in fit once you've removed the individual casting blocks. They arrive in a small ziplok bag, but if you order for delivery, you'll likely have your purchase tip up in a letterbox friendly card box. There are four pylons supplied, and both pairs are handed as well as marked with letters on the stub. The inner pylons are the larger of the two, with the skinnier ones on the outer station, all of which have the same pin layout as the kit, so they should just fit right in, as should any weapons you want to hang off them. As usual with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Hawker Hunter Ailerons, Flaps and Air Brake set (for Airfix) 1:48 Aerocraft We've finally got a new tool Hunter in 1:48, and it's from our local (British) model company too. What could be better? Well, a bit of extra detail is always welcome, especially if you're planning to mess around with the flying surfaces. The kit parts are fine for what they do, but if you're popping them out to "dirty up" the airframe, there's a bit of detail missing. Here comes Ali with a new set to correct just that omission. The set arrives in an unassuming ziplok bag, and inside are five pieces of resin, each on their own pouring block, with a wafer of flash helping to protect the delicate areas like the hinges. The parts are drop-in replacements for the kit parts, and just need removing from their blocks, which should be easy, as they are attached along the thin trailing edges. The new ailerons have the correct outline, while the flaps are detailed inside with rib and stringer details, and finally the air-brake part has had its tricky ejector-pin marks removed from between the ribs, and a little extra detail added that was missing. Overall, a worthwhile addition to your model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  19. Since my admission back into the Xavier Ward for PTSD at St John of God Hospital in Nth Richmond Sydney NSW, the staff has ask if I could leave one of my model ships for display? But since a couple of these a going to form apart of display, “I said I do something a wee bit special which would link in with the work done here on the Xavier Ward and why the Xavier Ward is here in the first place.” So I selected a Daring Class Destroyer by OzMods in Resin 1/700. HMAS Vendetta was the only ship of its class in the RAN to see active service and fire it’s guns in anger. It seen active service with the US 7th Fleet on the gun line during the Vietnam War and from all accounts the yanks prefer her to use her more than other ship on the gun line due her firepower and accuracy. Between October 1969 to March 1970 she fired 13,295 rds at approximately 1,750 different targets. In fact She and her crew did so well on the gun line the 7th Fleet requested for another Daring Class Destroyer from RAN to replace the Vendetta instead of the more modern Charles F Adams DDG’s that the RAN had in service at the time. This model once completed will form a part of the Veterans Week displays done by the staff and members of the Xavier Ward for PTSD at St John of God Hospital in Nth Richmond NSW Australia.
  20. Hi folks Been a while since I posted anything. Not been doing much but have worked on a couple of figures. This is the latest completion, and I shall add others as they get to the finishing line. Those of you who've been watching Game of Thrones should recognise this little guy... In the flesh, in front of the television cameras: ... and here's the basic resin parts: and partway through the (very straightforward) build: and the final result: and some close ups: Hope you like him. He goes on display in my local model shop tomorrow. As always - any comments and criticism are welcomed. Kev
  21. Hi mates, Having just finished one folded wing project (my Fairey Firefly TT.4), and having not learned any lessons by doing so, I decided to jump head first into another! And in resin to boot! This time it's the de Havilland Sea Venom in fabulous 1:72 scale. The build consisted of the basic Sea Venom kit, plus the optional folding wing set, both from those master craftsmen in the Czech Republic, CMR. I love CMR kits - the level of detail is astounding. This project is a tribute to Steve Long (NAVY870) from the Camden Museum of Aviation in Australia. Steve was such a big help with my Firefly build, that I wanted to build a model of an aircraft that he restored, Sea Venom WZ895. He was a huge help on the build, making sure I had all of WZ895's configuration correct. I think I got it all! Project: Royal Australian Navy de Havilland Sea Venom FAW.53 Kits: Czech Master Resin (CMR) de Havilland Sea Venom FAW.21/22 & FAW.53 (kit number 231); Folding Wings Set (kit number DS7207) Scale: 1:72 (Her Majesty's Own Scale) Decals: From the kit, representing WZ895, 870-NW, No. 724 Squadron RAN, Naval Air Station Nowra, Summer 1959 Photoetch: Included with the kit, primarily for the cockpit, control surfaces, antennae, windscreen wiper, wing fences, etc. Vacuform: Two copies included with the kit, and old Fumble Thumbs needed them both! The canopy is supplied as one piece, and must be cut into three sections to be displayed open Paint: Gunze H333 Extra Dark Sea Grey, H331 Dark Sea Grey, H74 Sky, H11 Flat White, H12 Flat Black, H77 Tyre Black, H322 Phthalo Cyanine Blue, H329 Yellow FS13538; Alclad 101 Aluminum, 115 Stainless Steel, 314 Klear Kote Flat, and a bunch I forgot about. Weathering: Post shading to simulate paint fading and wear, and the assorted stains and hydraulic fluid/oil streaks. I applied a grey wash to the Sky underside, and a black wash to the EDSG topside. Improvements/Corrections This was built pretty much out of the box, the only things I added were: Canopy shades Whip aerials (two on the rear canopy and one under the starboard boom) Longer jury struts (the kit supplied struts were too short for proper alignment of the wings when folded) Build thread: Link Now, let's see some photos! Enjoy! Perhaps the most difficult part of the build was getting the alignment of the wings correct. They're not perfect, but I think they're pretty close! I couldn't figure out how to hold the model upside down to take some photos of the underside once the folded wings were on, but I do have these in-process shots before they were added. I wasn't completely finished with the weathering, etc. but I think you can get the idea. And a couple of family shots: Cheers, Bill
  22. I wasn’t sure in which forum to post this, Sci-Fi or Figures, so I flipped a coin and here I am. This is a resin and metal kit I found on eBay and as I wanted a break from my current build I thought it would be a relaxing interlude...wrong! It’s quite an involved build with a lot of tidying up to do on the resin and metal parts, and then there was the drilling and pinning of the parts to contend with. It’s painted with a mixture of Humbrol enamels and Tamiya acrylics (applied with brush and airbrush) with a final coat of Humbrol Matt varnish to seal it all in. I’ve since noticed that on the photo the shoe laces don’t show very well although they do with the naked eye. I used a soft pencil to highlight them so maybe I need to rethink my options. Anyway, here’s Marvin the Martian looking very malicious, look out Bugs!
  23. Scale solutions resin model of the Derelict from Alien,a fairly hefty chunk of nicely cast resin,No air holes and a reasonable fit,Have been watching this kit for a while,However the company is based in Australia,so,with the initial outlay,along with postage and tax,it seemed unlikely I would ever get one,However a partially built one came up on E-Bay and I was the proud owner of another "Grail " kit.The seller was grand too,chucked in some miliput and styrene wire as well. As you can see,the two main booms had been already built. A little space jockey figure can be built into the main hull. You can build one of two versions,the intact version as seen in "Alien",or the damaged version with a collapsed beam as as seen in "Aliens" An extra base piece is added to lay the collapsed beam on. As i was building the alien version this base piece was not required,but I hate to see good resin go to waste,so ,with a bit of flipping and modelling clay I have joined the two together. A bit of minor surgey later. And all blended in. And given a coat of primer. I think the Derelict is an iconic design,and really sold the idea that it was designed by an Alien culture,Giger at his awesome best,hope to do it justice. Cheers Andy
  24. My entry will be a Kiwi Resin Models CT-4A from 1 FTS, RAAF Point Cook, Victoria. They were knick-named 'Plastic Parrots' in service due to the yellow/green delivery scheme. Later they were painted in an orange/white 'Fanta Can' scheme (one the kit box). This will be the scheme I will be building. It is a full resin kit with a Falcon vacform canopy. I will be doing one of the aircraft I flew in as a Navigator trainee back in November 1990. I managed a whole 7.6 hours in 4 flights, the last log entry includes a landing (for lunch) at the halfway point (Horsham, Victoria). I also have a Flying High Decals sheet that will allow me to do any of 3 from my logbook, now which one? A19-043, the first I flew in (with some stick time), or perhaps A19-056 with the longest flight time? I suppose I will decide at decalling time. To my surprise, I found a second (more basic) kit in the same very small box. This kit lacks a lot of interiors parts and a nose wheel and strut The kit supplied in the box is more detailed with cockpit detailing parts and separate flaps. It is missing one of the main gear legs and some plastic tube for the exhaust pipes which I could use from the other kit or make up from card and my spare tube stocks for the exhausts. Again I will decide when the time comes. The instructions a very basic, they include a list of parts and a note to use epoxy or superglue. No assembly sequence included. A painting guide for both schemes is included with some painting notes for the prop and gear legs Comparing the 2 you can see the dimensions of the 'bagged' CT-4A are off, too long and too skinny, the tailplane of oversized as well. The wings are correct though.
  25. Hello, While working on my YF-105A (over on W.I.P.), I managed to misplace the canopy. After checking my two backup kits, only one kit had the canopy! As these kits are rather hard to come by (Revellogram F-105D) these days, I decided to explore my options. First I check around, looking for a vacuform canopy for the 1/72 F-105D. Nada, which is not surprising, considering the "ear flaps" and thinness of the original. Next, I looked for resin canopies. I found a really great one, but only in 1/32nd scale, and after all, we modelers must maintain some sense of propriety and not stray from The One True Scale! The one I found in that scale was however, a beauty, from the F-105B correction kit, from the former Meteor Productions, Inc or Cutting Edge F-105B correction kit, as sold by Mr Dave Klauss: This is a beautifully rendered masterpiece, and if I could buy one in my scale, I would! But, since I can't, I thought to study the work of the masters. Closer examination of the molder pieces (only the clear ones here, not trying to replicate the kit!) revealed that The molded bases or resin reservoirs, as they are in real life, are both slightly tapered toward the canopy parts, and the corners of the bases are cut off. This serves to aid in removal of the part from the mold after casting, and may save even a little resin, a concern more having to do with mass production, rather than the one-offs that I'm trying to do. Secondly, and hard to see in the front main canopy, are the small bits added between the base and the canopy to provide clearance and material for sawing the finished canopy from the base as shown better below: In my rough and tumble proof-of-concept effort effort here I have used a chunk of old pressboard for the base piece, but I have added some 10 thou card between the base and the part, for the afore-mentioned reasons. All these were glued together with RS watch cement, as CA glues have bad effects on some resins and some silicone rubber. In the background is a box made of Lego blocks, on part of a Lego base that I cut to the size needed. One can make the box from all sorts of things, but some kinds of plastic have the advantage that the silicone rubber won't stick to them. The large piece of scrap blue silicone is there only to hold the main canopy at the correct angle while the glue dries. You will note that in the first photo, additional material (denoted by the hatch lines) had been added when the master was made, to enable the cast part to be pulled straight out of the mold, while my first effort was left at an angle. Eventually my masters were stuck onto a thin layer of clay that provides the bottom of the box, as well as sealing the lower edges of the box, to avoid silicone leaking out of the mold. It should be noted that regular modelling clay won't do here, as the process requires sulfur free clay, or bad things happen! For this casting effort, I'll be using the Amazing Clear Cast clear resin, which my bottles are around 2 - 3 years old, and OoMoo25, which is brand new. Both of these were procured from Amazon. The Oomoo 25 was properly mixed 1:1, and poured into the mold box, with the masters in place. I took no special effort about bubbles because, I use pressure casting as a rule. For those interested, I have provided a link to my set-up, and would be happy to answer any questions about it: Ed's Poor Mans Pressure/Vacuum Casting Pot The silicone was poured into the mold bob and allowed to set under 55lbs pressure, for 75 minutes: Above right, after the Oomoo had set up, the masters were removed, and I was ready for a casting try. You will note the total absence of bubbles, due to the pressure casting. I then mixed up the resin and poured it into the mold, and allowed it to set under 55 lbs pressure for 48 hours, as per the resin directions. When that time was up, I attempted to de-mold the resin canopy pieces, and then ran into the problem: First off, the resin is kind of yellow. I believe this is due solely to the age of the bottles. Normally, resin has a shelf life of 3 - 6 months, maybe more with a little care, like nitrogen shot into the opened bottles, to keep oxygen and especially any moisture, from getting to the resin, even in a re-sealed bottle. Second, the parts were still tacky and flexible, not hard. This could also be due to the age of the resin, but it could be that perhaps I shout have pre-cured the silicone mold in the oven at 150 degrees or so for a few hours. This time, etc, vary by manufacturer and product. Since I had used this very resin a couple of years ago with Oomoo 30 (which only varies in setup time) I didn't consider this. Another factor is that the molding is very thin. Castings less that 1/8" or so are problematic for many resins, many also requiring a post cure period in the oven to achieve maximum strength and durability. I will investigate some of these issues in my next attempt. Since the resin was still soft, I managed to scratch this piece getting it out of the mold, and totally destroyed the windscreen part! I was however, encouraged by the fact the that the thin wall section was able to be reproduced by the pressure casting method, and the detail was all faithfully seen, and given the old resin, still had good clarity. After three days out of the mold, the casting is still hardening, but slowly. I have ordered another brand of clear resin, and some 3/8 clear acrylic sheet for the base part. I will take everything I have learned from this effort, and make a second attempt. Please stay tuned if interested, as it will take a few days for this all to be done, as well as more time in the mold and pre and/or post curing time. You will kindly note again, the absence of any bubbles, due to the pressure casting! I would dearly love to know the brand of the resin and silicone that Dave Klaus used for his pieces, if anyone out there happens to know, or any useful suggestions from others who have tried this process. I'm certain I will succeed, just not sure how long it will take! Back ASAP, Ed
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