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Found 10 results

  1. #22/2017 My dad let the Romanian Bf109 follow a Romanian native, the IAR-80 from Hobby Boss. Not a bad kit, but partly a bit simple and less detail. The ailerons and flaps are molded in one piece so my dad cut them apart to give the model some more life. EZ Line for aerials, decals from RB Productions, painted with Tamiya XF-81 RAF Dark Green and Gunze H417 RLM76. The model shows an aircraft of Escadrilla 42/52 Vanatoare in 1941. DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  2. To accompany the Romanian 109 my dad startsanother Romanian WW2 bird, using the Hobby Boss kit and decals from RB Productions.
  3. #20/2017 After the JG54 G-6, here´s right away the next Hasegawa 109. Like with the other, also here Gunze and Tamiya acrylics used, EZ Line for aerials, plastic rods and lead wire for brake lines and cockpit fuel line, decals from RB Productions. Model shows an a/c of Grupul 7/9 Vanatoare in Piestany in January 1945. At that time Romania was already reached by the Red Army and fought along its side against the Germans. So yellow IDs changed to white and crosses to roundels. DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  4. After already showing slight withdrawal symptoms, my dad´s gonna build another 109. Using the good old Hasegawa G-6 kit with decals from RB Productions. Doing "Blue 10" but don´t know yet if it´s gonna be a pro-German or Pro-Russian scheme.
  5. Here is our photo-etched cockpit detail set for the Zoukei Mura 1/32 Ta 152 H-0 and Ta 152 H-1 kits. This set contains parts for the instrument panels, side consoles, rudder pedals, seat back armour and other cockpit parts. For more information, please visit our website: http://www.radubstor...products_id=639 Thanks for your support, Radu www.radub.com
  6. RB Productions is to release a 1/32nd Yokosuka MXY-7 Ohka Type 22 resin kit - ref.RB-K32003 This kit will be released in mid-May 2015. 1/32 Yokosuka MXY7 Ohka Type 22 & Ground-Handing Trolley This is a multimedia resin kit. The kit contains: - 60 resin parts - 57 photo-etched brass parts - 1 clear resin part - 1 vacuum formed part - 1 decal sheet Sources: http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22_152_155&products_id=635 https://www.facebook.com/largescalemodeller/posts/861096873962269 V.P.
  7. Good morning everyone. Last build of the year for me is the 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1 Corsair. I got this kit as a treat to myself as I wanted to build at least one of these Tamiya "uber kits". Well it didn't disappoint and went together very nicely, a couple of awkward bits but that was just my clumsiness. You can have a look at the WIP here if you like. I added the following, RB productions seat harness, Barracuda studios wheels and engine upgrade plus the cockpit decal set. I used masks for the main national markings codes and walkway stripes and the kit decals for the rest. Paints used were Tamiya, Gunze Aqueous, Vallejo and Citadel. "Daphne C" U.S Marine Corps VMF-213, Munda, Soloman Islands, 1943. Thanks for looking, please feel free to comment. Cheers... I've added some new pictures taken with a decent camera, although I'm still a duff photographer!
  8. Hawker Typhoon Radiator & Mask Sets (for Airfix) 1:24 RB Productions Airfix's new Typhoon has been very well received, and is an excellent model. Radu Brinzan has been quick off the mark to bring us some essential goodies to help us build a better Typhoon in the shape of a replacement for the slightly weak chin scoop mesh, and a set of masks. Hawker Typhoon Radiators (RB-P24007) This set arrives in a small bag with card backing, a small instruction sheet, and folded-over card header. Inside is a sheet of very fine Photo-Etch (PE) metal that has been etched from stainless steel, and has the correct honeycomb mesh etched in. It is a straight-forward lamination job, which involves you removing the parts from the fret and gluing them over the existing detail, with no cutting involved. Job done! Taking care with the glue will be necessary to avoid flooding the delicate mesh etched through the parts, and of course you'll also have to protect them from paint, as they're usually bare metal to improve heat transfer, so perhaps a coat of matt varnish will give it a more subdued and representative look. Painting the kit parts black before you install the PE would be an idea too, and will show up the PE nicely. Superbly etched, and a huge improvement over the kit parts, so well worth the additional cost. Hawker Typhoon Canopy Masks (RB-M24001) Not everyone likes masking canopies, and if that sounds like you, this will ease your furrowed brow. Inside the flat-pack is a sheet of pre-cut apparently grey masking material that is actually clear/translucent. An instruction sheet is also included, and walks you through the application process step-by-step. The material will show up lighter if there is air caught under it, so you can tell where you need to burnish the edges down. The main canopy is masked with a U-shaped curve that is placed next to the framing, and the top-most part of the canopy can be covered by the supplied centre part with a few dabs of masking fluid, or you can use masking fluid exclusively. It's entirely up to you. The windscreen is three small flat sections, so should be very easy to apply, and once you're happy it is all burnished down, you can paint the canopy with lightly applied coats of paint to avoid seepage or a thick lip of paint building up against the edge of the mask. The masks are compatible with acrylic, enamel and even lacquer paints, so you just have to remember not to flood the paint in too quickly. Another winner. Both highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Pico Saws RB Productions We've seen razor saws before, and even Photo-Etch (PE) razor saws, but these Peco-Saws reduce both the size of the teeth, as well as the projection of the blade in order to saw very small things and in very tight spaces. The little Fret of nickel or stainless steel contains four blades that are attached by four part-etched "gates". To use the blades you need to cut these off, which is best done with a pair of PE scissors, although it can be accomplished by pressure on a hard surface with a curved blade. Just be careful not to fatigue the blade in case it flies off, or slips. Once removed from the fret the blade can be fitted as-is into the jaws of an X-Acto style handle, or you can bend it along a fold-line that is etched in, flexing it back and forth until it snaps off. This allows you to mount the blade in a pin-vice chuck if you don't have (or don't like) X-Acto handles. As it happens, I have a few spares lying around the workshop, so I've mounted a blade in the shaft of that. You have to nip it up nice and tight, as both of my handles will give the impression they are closed about half a turn before they clamp the blade firmly enough. In practice they are simple to use, and cut quickly as long as you don't try and force the blade to cut quicker than it should. The cut is very fine, and is barely any wider than the 0.1mm of the blade itself, so very little (if any) making good of length will be needed after the cut. As well as the curved saw on one side, the backside of the blade is also lined with etched teeth, so it can be used inverted to prolong its usefulness. Its short length is great for tight spaces, and I can see plenty of uses for it in the future. The metal is strong, but if you force it you will end up bending it, and if you drop it on the floor like I did, it will definitely bend. I wish I hadn't done that, but that's one of the X-acto handle's main faults – it rolls on anything other than a flat surface. Tape or glue a piece of styrene rod to one side to avoid that sort of thing. Conclusion Radu is good at adding tools to the modeller's arsenal, and this is one that will come in useful time after time. A small instruction sheet that accompanies the set removes any queries on usage, and at €4 a set, they won't exactly break the bank. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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