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  1. G'day all. We had our annual show last weekend and as it happens every year, the motivation and enthusiasm was renewed after catching up with mates and seeing some fantastic models on the competition table and club displays. So of course I went home and started a model. I built the Airfix Defiant two years ago and had a great time building it so opted for the new(ish) 1/48 Airfix P-40B Tomahawak. I've picked up some extras over the last month so started on it last week. Yesterday was Father's Day here in Oz so I managed a few hours to myself amongst all of the carry on with my own kids, catch up with my dad and my wife's dad. Considering it's the kit cockpit, I'm happy with how it turned out. The only thing I'm not sure on is the amount of time spent on the HGW seatbelts, I don't think I'll bother with them again. Everything else is just detail painting, washes and some pigments. The instrument dials are kit decals with heaps of Microsol applied to get them to suck down onto the embossed dials. Followed by Tamiya X-22 for the instrument glass. The only thing missing are the gun breeches for the two nose mounted 50 cal guns. The fuselage goes together tonight. Cheers, Mick
  2. Hi. I’m sorry if this has been asked before - I *have* tried searching but haven’t come up with anything. I’m hoping to build a small diorama in 1:48, of a Spitfire(s) being resupplied. BOB era. I’ve come up with the Airfix 3-way bowser, figures and Mk1/2 aircraft. BUT I’m at a blank when it comes to the resupply for the 303s. Firstly - history. We’re the guns refilled using pre-filled ammo boxes, or were belts fed into the ones in the wings? Secondly - I know I’ll need to mess about with the original kits to open up the panels to the gun bays - and pertinently find a supply of the actual ammo belts/containers. I’ve seen some gun bay detail kits are available, but.. ammo? So any suggestions for both issues would be very greatly appreciated. I’ve just started modelling again after more than 40 years, and things have changed somewhat! I’ve only vague memories of the Airfix 1:24 Spitfire Mk1a I made way back then, but do remember there was some detail in the fun bays. Short of buying one literally for reference, I’m out of ideas for narrowing down research as there’s so much to filter!
  3. Finished this fantastic little vignette from Elan13 Models. The seat is from a 75mm Dolls house furniture set, stripped and repainted. Cocker Spaniel is based on my own cocker called Louis. Painting thread Here
  4. Well - the 'new' Revell MH-47 which includes decals for ZH903 landed on my actual doorstep this week. The real ZH903 has landed not far from my doorstep in the last couple of years. Also ZH900:
  5. My friend is building an Italeri (MPM rebox) Wellington MK.Ic. Confused with different exhaust types of left and right. On left engine is this: However there was a "Porcupine" or Hedgehog exhaust. When referring to resin conversion parts, two types both provided. The long exhaust already had flame damper effect, so what's for Porcupine one? Apparently it's hard to produce.... Further more, when I search photos, I find on MK.IV with R-1830 engine, the left outer exhaust is still a long tube, but the others...different. Perhaps some special reasons? The info says this is a MK.X. Cannot tell which type of left exhausts.... Also, after searching "Wellington", I found an old topic of exhaust positions: wellington-exhausts-inboard outboard It makes me more confused for same engines on Beaufighter with same exhausts and same position on left and right engine nacelles.
  6. British Pilots 1939-45 (32105) 1:32 ICM via Hannants During WWII our brave pilots fought to keep the Nazi enemy from invading Great Britain in the hope of remaining free after most of Europe had fallen under the jackboot of Adolf Hitler's evil empire. They went to war wearing their RAF blues, a pair of fleece-lined flying boots, Mae West life jacket, fleece-lined leather flying jacket (it gets cold at altitude), plus a leather flying helmet with goggles and sewn-in headphones with the mic in their oxygen mask so that they could communicate with their colleagues (Repeat please!) and with ground control who guided them to their foes using ground-breaking radar technology. This large scale figure set contains three of these fine young gentlemen who were entrusted with a very expensive fighter even though many of them were barely out of their teens. The set arrives in a small top-opening box with captive lid on the inner tray, and inside is a single sprue of grey styrene and a sheet of instructions that gives part numbers on the rear plus paint codes. The figures are all broken down with separate heads, torso, arms and legs and in the case of the seated pilot, his parachute pack is included for him to sit on in the cockpit. The seated pilot is dressed in overalls, ready to fly with his oxygen mask buttoned up closed, with his two fingers on his right hand up in a V-salute to indicate his readiness, the other hand on his control column. He is also belted into his aircraft with the four-point harnesses meeting in the centre of his chest at the circular quick-release buckle. The standing pilots are both in relaxed poses, although one still has his un-buttoned helmet, Mae West and his looped comms wire in hand while he looks expectantly at the sky with one hand on his hip. The other gentleman is dressed in boots and jacket but with a bare head and his pipe in-hand, free hand in pocket in the spectator role. The two helmeted figures have separate goggles for ease and sharpness of moulding and if you're feeling really skilled you could hollow the frames out to add some Micro Crystal Clear or clear acetate in there for additional realism. The figures are broken down sensibly along natural lines, and the quality of sculpting is first-rate, especially the faces, fleecy collars, pipe and twisted texture on the headset cable, although there is a little flash to remove before you paint. Clothing drape is well depicted, and even the seamlines down the sides of trousers and round pockets are depicted, giving the avid painter a good head start in cramming in detail. Markings There are no decals in the box as you'd expect with figures, but as all their insignia are covered by their jackets there are none to paint anyway. The table beneath the instructions show codes for Revell and Tamiya, plus the names of the colour if you don't have those paints or a conversion chart available. There are plenty of electronic conversion charts online these days though, which is nice. Conclusion As you'd expect, you may have to trim the seated pilot's butt and legs to get him properly seated in his aircraft of (your) choice, but as long as you plan ahead before you get too far into your project that's hardly an issue. Lovely sculpting and natural poses all-round. Very highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Sorry if I got anyone excited... just wondering if there was any news on this kit which is so obvously coming based on the internal frames in the GR.4 & IDS kits. If nothing else maybe a lot of interest in this thread will make Revell pull their finger out?
  8. Hello Everyone! As my first post I want to ask about the red color in the Red Arrows Folland Gnat airplanes. I know the actual red is Signal Red for the Hawk T.1 and Cherry Red for the former Red arrows, but what is for the 1978-79 years?. I have the Italeri 2677 for the Hawk and the Airfix A015124 for the Folland Gnat. Thanks!!
  9. Airfix Phantom FGR.2 1:72 Hi everyone! Some of you might remember my Airfix Phantom FG.1 build from over a year ago. Well, since I enjoyed that one so much, it was a no-brainer to build an RAF jet when Airfix unveiled their FGR.2 kit. As always with newer Airfix kits, it's generally a really enjoyable build; great quality (and numerous!) decals, great mould quality and a novel construction! However the kit is not without its flaws: the nose should really be moulded as a single part (as seen with Revell's 1:72 Tornado, for example) to avoid seam lines, the canopy mid-section should really have a spare part with the periscope "orifice" already pre-cut (I kept making a pig's breakfast of it, as the periscope would mean that the canopy wouldn't sit flush in-line with the cockpit walls. Those instrument panel decals that are included should ideally be made less "basic" or a moulded instrument panel should be provided (again, see the Revell Tornado kit for how it could be done). I had a set of decals (Xtradecal "The history of RAF 19 Squadron") with a particular blue-tailed scheme for an FGR2 which really appealed to me. For this build I used my trusty supply of Vallejo Model Air paints, along with a brown weathering wash from Flory Models (my first attempt at using a brown wash instead of my normal black wash. I just couldn't resist taking a few snaps alongside the Phantom FG.1 As always, thank you ever so much for dropping by and having a look! Best wishes, Sam
  10. So this should be the perfect forum for this question: Soon I will be marking & painting the fin flash on my Short Crusader. I’m looking for an authoritative reference to confirm what order the colours should be in - front to back - R/W/B or B/W/R? The reason I ask is because I recall seeing some discussion on this issue pass me by some time ago on BM (unfortunately I am having no luck w search function) in which I seem to recall that someone stated that at some point in the inter-war years (mid to late ‘20s?! the RAF reversed the order ... The Crusader was painted up ready for Venice in 1927. I thought I might look to its more famous teammates that year - the Supermarine S5 - for guidance ... but unfortunately I seem to return coloured profiles of the exact same machines with the colours in opposite order to each other! Any assistance much appreciated! g. p.s the kit decal has red at the front, but I’m reluctant to take their word for it. p.p.s could I be right that the 1927 S5’s have blue at the front, which was then reversed to red at the front for the 1929 S6’s?
  11. Im looking for info as far as colors ? Were they white always ? Or did they get painted grey or green at some point ? I have seen photo's in museums of the green/grey. Also when did the RAF start carrying the Radar guided Martel and TV guided Martel ? When they carried the TV guided Martel i know it used a datalink pod, does anyone have specs for the datalink pod ? Any help is appreciated ? Thank you in advance. Dennis
  12. This project was started in May 2018, just over a year ago! Those that have followed the build thread will know it well, and the sorry story that happened around November last year. It was declared "finished" ready for Telford 2018 and indeed took part in its original form. On returning from Telford, I decided to refine the model by the addition of some subtle pin washes to accentuate some of the NMF panel detail. The idea was fine, but the execution was a big blunder. Me, the reasonably experienced modeller managed to completely ruin around 40% of the rather neat looking Alclad finish by not properly sealing it with Acrylic varnish, and then using an oil/enamel based pin wash. The result upon clean off was large parts of the Alclad finish being wiped away! Well, since that time, I have threatened the model with the dustbin, sworn at it, vowed never to build another NMF aircraft, and certainly never another sabre. Between those moments I have spent some background time carefully cleaning up and restoring many of the damaged panels. The result is declared finally finished. The model is the Airfix Sabre with modified positioning of wing fences and pylons, and a totally scratch built cockpit interior. I chose an early RAF Sabre 4 as it would have appeared after the early delivery flights with the red conspicuity markings applied for the occasion. Alclad shades were used to give differing panel effects and the red used was Xtracrylics RAF Red Arrows Red with a touch of a deeper red. Much technical assistance came from @Sabrejet and @Tony Edmundson plus others on here too numerous to mention. Also very grateful to @Courageous, @perdu, @Martian Hale, @TheBaron, @RidgeRunner, @opus999 and many more who encouraged me to press on when the disaster happened! Original RFI is here, for those who like to see a long build with a nightmare towards the end! Thank you all. A few close up shots, which can be a bit cruel on the modeller! This one shows just some of Airfix's magnificent stencilling decals. And finally, she is in good company. A head to head shot each with an Avon Sabre and an F-86H And all three together: Other projects to crack on with now, but there will be another Sabre build quite soon. Thanks for looking Terry
  13. Apart from the RAF March Past, are there any other songs related to the RAF? I want to use them as background sound for my videos. Thanks.
  14. This is the original Airfix Spitfire Vb boxing with aftermarket decals, covered wheels, Vokes tropical filter and masking tape seatbelts. EP401 was regularly flown by FLT LT John Waddy DFC (RAAF). FLT LT Waddy scored 15 1/2 kills during the war in the western desert campaign in Nth Africa. All paints are from the Gunze range and sprayed using masking tape masks. Spitfire Vb Trop LH Front Finished_Crop by Draggie748, on Flickr Spitfire Vb Trop RH Front Finished_Crop by Draggie748, on Flickr Spitfire Vb Trop Finished Planview_Crop by Draggie748, on Flickr Spitfire Vb Trop LH Rear Finished_Crop by Draggie748, on Flickr Spitfire Vb TropUnderneath Finished_Crop by Draggie748, on Flickr
  15. The model was built straight from the box, except for pitot tubes which are made with Albion alloy tubes. I airbrushed a first coat of Alclad Primer, then a soft preshading and different coats of white. All colours are Gunze expect metallic parts After decals and a coat of clear I did a washing for panel lines, and some filters for weathering with oil colours. The white camouflage was more difficult than I thought! The results is a little bit “orange skin” Decals are from XTradecals sheet Before take photos I forgot to remove the masking tape from underside cockpit windows..... sorry for the background.....
  16. Just as Airfix announce the new Buccaneer kit, I finish the old kit in 16 Sqn colours, based at RAF Laarbruch. Bit of a dog of a kit, took lots of filling and finally just gave up when it started to look like a Buccaneer.
  17. Not often posted as my modelling isn't up to most on this site but fairly happy with how this turned out. Hasegawa kit with aftermarket drop tanks, practice bombs, ladder and decals. 6 Sqn, RAF Coltishall, XX766 from 1992.
  18. Hi everyone and sorry for starting this in the wrong thread earlier! So it all started like this - my modelling mate and all round good bloke Barry had bought himself this beastie last year.. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/115168-trumpeter-01601-tu-95ms-bear-h Me, I was at the end of a year of F-14 builds and was deciding what to build next. When I saw Barry's Bear, I dropped him a message along the lines of... Cool kit, nice purchase Just how big is that thing?! Wouldn't it be daft to see it 'intercepted' by a 1/72 Tomcat! We thought no more of it, except for sharing photos of Tomcats intercepting Russian Tu-95s until Christmas came and I happened to get the these two kits as a present..(cheers Daiske) And what with Mr. Putin starting to act the eejit with his flights around the UK, Ireland and Europe, it had all come together lovely. Just like an A-Team plan - an RAF Typhoon meeting a Russian Bear bomber, somewhere over the North Sea. (Source: Wikipedia Commons, public use) So that's our plan - Barry builds the Bear, I build the Typhoon and they both get displayed on a diorama that probably won't fit in either of our cars (damn, just thought about that one). And if that all that wasn't enough, I also planted a seed in Barry's poor head about maybe motorising the engines on the big Russian... More about the engines (and some WIP pictures) later this week. Thanks for looking. Dermot & Barry (who's still thinks I'm a bit of a nutter for this crazy plan)
  19. I'm planning a future build of a Wellington (Mk.II) and am trying to find out some info on the markings so it will be as accurate as possible. Were the serial numbers and codes painted on in standardized colo(u)rs, or did they vary by squadron? I just bought the Revell (1/72) kit and it shows the serial in red, but I have also seen images of the serial in white. I have only seen the codes in a white/off-white color. Also, what is the correct location for the serial number? I've seen some examples with it placed on the vertical stabilizer, but others have it placed on the fuselage near level with the horizontal stabilizers. In case this differs by squadron, I am focusing on 158 Squadron when based in Driffield. I have the serial number and code for the plane if that makes any difference. Thanks, Bill
  20. This is my first build thread and also my first military vehicle kit for decades: so I’ll be fumbling may way along! This is the kit….. I have had a lot of fun so far with it, trying out different ideas to see how they worked out - and finding ways to patch up mistakes when it didn’t go as planned! Some things went well, others did not. I’m not sure I can take the end result seriously as a stand-alone model (see for yourselves later!), but it will probably be okay if lost somewhere in a diorama. I built the kit up into a number of sub-assemblies for painting. The only change I made was to the tank filling necks, replacing them with longer ones fashioned from plastic rod which was swaged over with the blade of a heated screwdriver to create the filling caps. The mudguards benefited from thinning down along the edges. Airfix give a number of options in their kit for the cab and the body. I selected an early version with an open, canvas cab finished in a camouflage pattern of Humbrol 30 matt dark green over a base of 86 light olive (which I take to be Airfix’s selection for dark green No 4 over khaki green No 3). You can also build a version with an enclosed cab that was in production from 1943. I found this guide essential reading: http://www.mafva.net/other pages/Starmer camo.htm Options for early and later versions are included in the kit: The sub-assemblies were undercoated in khaki green G3, based on Mike Starmer’s recipe in post 17 of (but using brown Humbrol 160 as I do not have H10), which was then made darker and sprayed over the parts to provide a dark undercoat to work from. Once the enamel paint had dried, it was given a couple of brush coats of Klear diluted 50% with water and tinted with some burnt umber acrylic to provide a glaze/wash, see http://barracudacals.blogspot.com/. However, I don’t think I made the colour strong enough so the wash effect was not really apparent, so I followed up with AK Interactive enamel wash AK075 for NATO vehicles and this worked nicely, despite it being my very first time of using it. I found it best to use as a pin-wash (rather than slapping it on all over) and then tidy up smudges with a brush moistened with thinners. The kit has a decent level of detail under the bonnet and the option is offered to have one bonnet half propped open so you can view it. There is also a separate hatch in the floor of the rear body to access the rear axle, so you could easily model the vehicle undergoing maintenance if you wished. I fitted the various engine parts into place and painted them up before they were lost from sight forever once the closed bonnet and side panels were glued into place. I found it necessary to trim back the top corners of the fire wall to get the rear of the bonnet to sit down fully: The bonnet side panels could also be omitted should you want to model your truck in a desert environment….. It was a test of dexterity to get the radiator front, bonnet top and sides lined up and without any problem gaps. I glued the bottom of the radiator piece to the chassis and then, before the glue had set, fitted the bonnet top into place. Once all this was firm, I popped in the side panels so they abutted the bonnet and glued them into position. It left a small gap between the sides and the wheel arches, but not enough to concern me. If you follow the instructions - which have you glue the sides to the wheel arches before the bonnet - the gap would have been far more noticeable being between the sides and bonnet top. Next came the cargo body. I elected to go for the covered version, but parts are also offered for you to leave it open. This was even more challenging to assemble, but everything worked out fine. Some filling and sanding was needed to lose the join lines. The front of the cargo body is also the rear of the cab, and it was not obvious to me from the instructions how it was to be positioned. However, all became clear once I tried assembling the cargo body onto the chassis. In fact, everything just clipped into place, which was ideal for the painting and weathering steps. I ground a relief into the ends to the rolled-up tarp. The dimples were painted dark earth before the part was glued into place: Some pre-shading was done by brush before the canvas parts were placed in position for airbrushing (sorry for the wobbly photo): The cab was masked using moistened kitchen roll. Some diluted PVA glue was applied over the outside to stiffen the covering. Some water was dripped on and allowed to soften the paper when the time came to remove it once painting was done: That's it for now - I don't want to bore the pants off you. I'll post how painting progressed shortly. Cheers, Pat
  21. Aircraft in Miniature Limited (AiM) is to release 1/72nd and 1/48th RAF Super Taskmaster tractor resin kits - ref. GE72049 & GE48049. Source: http://www.aim72.co.uk/page164.html V.P.
  22. Matchbox certainly chose some interesting and obscure subjects for their kits. Nowadays we have become used to seeing short-run unusual aircraft kits, but in the late 1970s this was a bit of a gamble to to try and avoid overlap with the established major UK kit manufacturers. This one came from last year's Telford Kit Swap and although its decals were a little tired, it has been a very satisfying build of something that I knew very little about. As you would expect from Matchbox, it assembles with no real issues although you have to take a little care with the separate nose sections and the split cowl. It also has a rather fragile undercarriage (cue the marvelous Matchbox stand). Replacement vacform canopies are readily available (and the previous owner included a set of these), but I'm not sure they are actually needed so I used the kit set instead. I built up the space behind the pilot's seat with plastic card to reflect the frame and head rest, plus added some paper seatbelts. Two nicely moulded aircrew figures joined the spares box. The tropical air filter is actually included on the sprue, but not listed on the instructions - I fitted it as an afterthought having seen it on reference pictures and as a result, it is a little lower than it should be. The wire aerial is stretched lycra thread. Hairy brush painted as always, using Humbrol enamels and top coated with Klear to apply the transfers, followed by a finishing coat of matt Windsor & Newton acrylic varnish. FredT
  23. I thought this photograph from World War Photos was interesting. Captioned as being taken in 1941 at Tulsa, Oklahoma. No serials or squadron identifiers on the P-40's or what appears to be an LB-30. Anybody have any ideas? Mike https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/usa/aircrafts-2-3/p-40-warhawk/early-b-24-bomber-and-curtiss-p-40-fighters-in-tulsa-1941/
  24. Hallo again Here are my two Avro Anson. From Classic Airframe in 1/48. Etched parts are from FlyPath. This a/c I built some years ago. At this time, it was the biggest challenge for me, because of the transparencies. Actually all knots of the internal frame I had to make metal pins and holes, to get them fixed and proof the accuracy of fit. For paint, I used Gunze H colors. Happy modelling
  25. Hi, Just a quick question, I'm working on a spitfire maintenance diorama in 1940 and I wondered what type of fuel tanker(s) would of been used to fuel a spitfire at this time? Many thanks, PlasticSoldier
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