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Found 287 results

  1. The model was built straight from the box, except for pitot tubes which are made with Albion alloy tubes. I airbrushed a first coat of Alclad Primer, then a soft preshading and different coats of white. All colours are Gunze expect metallic parts After decals and a coat of clear I did a washing for panel lines, and some filters for weathering with oil colours. The white camouflage was more difficult than I thought! The results is a little bit “orange skin” Decals are from XTradecals sheet Before take photos I forgot to remove the masking tape from underside cockpit windows..... sorry for the background.....
  2. Just as Airfix announce the new Buccaneer kit, I finish the old kit in 16 Sqn colours, based at RAF Laarbruch. Bit of a dog of a kit, took lots of filling and finally just gave up when it started to look like a Buccaneer.
  3. Not often posted as my modelling isn't up to most on this site but fairly happy with how this turned out. Hasegawa kit with aftermarket drop tanks, practice bombs, ladder and decals. 6 Sqn, RAF Coltishall, XX766 from 1992.
  4. Sorry if I got anyone excited... just wondering if there was any news on this kit which is so obvously coming based on the internal frames in the GR.4 & IDS kits. If nothing else maybe a lot of interest in this thread will make Revell pull their finger out?
  5. Hi everyone and sorry for starting this in the wrong thread earlier! So it all started like this - my modelling mate and all round good bloke Barry had bought himself this beastie last year.. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/115168-trumpeter-01601-tu-95ms-bear-h Me, I was at the end of a year of F-14 builds and was deciding what to build next. When I saw Barry's Bear, I dropped him a message along the lines of... Cool kit, nice purchase Just how big is that thing?! Wouldn't it be daft to see it 'intercepted' by a 1/72 Tomcat! We thought no more of it, except for sharing photos of Tomcats intercepting Russian Tu-95s until Christmas came and I happened to get the these two kits as a present..(cheers Daiske) And what with Mr. Putin starting to act the eejit with his flights around the UK, Ireland and Europe, it had all come together lovely. Just like an A-Team plan - an RAF Typhoon meeting a Russian Bear bomber, somewhere over the North Sea. (Source: Wikipedia Commons, public use) So that's our plan - Barry builds the Bear, I build the Typhoon and they both get displayed on a diorama that probably won't fit in either of our cars (damn, just thought about that one). And if that all that wasn't enough, I also planted a seed in Barry's poor head about maybe motorising the engines on the big Russian... More about the engines (and some WIP pictures) later this week. Thanks for looking. Dermot & Barry (who's still thinks I'm a bit of a nutter for this crazy plan)
  6. I'm planning a future build of a Wellington (Mk.II) and am trying to find out some info on the markings so it will be as accurate as possible. Were the serial numbers and codes painted on in standardized colo(u)rs, or did they vary by squadron? I just bought the Revell (1/72) kit and it shows the serial in red, but I have also seen images of the serial in white. I have only seen the codes in a white/off-white color. Also, what is the correct location for the serial number? I've seen some examples with it placed on the vertical stabilizer, but others have it placed on the fuselage near level with the horizontal stabilizers. In case this differs by squadron, I am focusing on 158 Squadron when based in Driffield. I have the serial number and code for the plane if that makes any difference. Thanks, Bill
  7. This is my first build thread and also my first military vehicle kit for decades: so I’ll be fumbling may way along! This is the kit….. I have had a lot of fun so far with it, trying out different ideas to see how they worked out - and finding ways to patch up mistakes when it didn’t go as planned! Some things went well, others did not. I’m not sure I can take the end result seriously as a stand-alone model (see for yourselves later!), but it will probably be okay if lost somewhere in a diorama. I built the kit up into a number of sub-assemblies for painting. The only change I made was to the tank filling necks, replacing them with longer ones fashioned from plastic rod which was swaged over with the blade of a heated screwdriver to create the filling caps. The mudguards benefited from thinning down along the edges. Airfix give a number of options in their kit for the cab and the body. I selected an early version with an open, canvas cab finished in a camouflage pattern of Humbrol 30 matt dark green over a base of 86 light olive (which I take to be Airfix’s selection for dark green No 4 over khaki green No 3). You can also build a version with an enclosed cab that was in production from 1943. I found this guide essential reading: http://www.mafva.net/other pages/Starmer camo.htm Options for early and later versions are included in the kit: The sub-assemblies were undercoated in khaki green G3, based on Mike Starmer’s recipe in post 17 of (but using brown Humbrol 160 as I do not have H10), which was then made darker and sprayed over the parts to provide a dark undercoat to work from. Once the enamel paint had dried, it was given a couple of brush coats of Klear diluted 50% with water and tinted with some burnt umber acrylic to provide a glaze/wash, see http://barracudacals.blogspot.com/. However, I don’t think I made the colour strong enough so the wash effect was not really apparent, so I followed up with AK Interactive enamel wash AK075 for NATO vehicles and this worked nicely, despite it being my very first time of using it. I found it best to use as a pin-wash (rather than slapping it on all over) and then tidy up smudges with a brush moistened with thinners. The kit has a decent level of detail under the bonnet and the option is offered to have one bonnet half propped open so you can view it. There is also a separate hatch in the floor of the rear body to access the rear axle, so you could easily model the vehicle undergoing maintenance if you wished. I fitted the various engine parts into place and painted them up before they were lost from sight forever once the closed bonnet and side panels were glued into place. I found it necessary to trim back the top corners of the fire wall to get the rear of the bonnet to sit down fully: The bonnet side panels could also be omitted should you want to model your truck in a desert environment….. It was a test of dexterity to get the radiator front, bonnet top and sides lined up and without any problem gaps. I glued the bottom of the radiator piece to the chassis and then, before the glue had set, fitted the bonnet top into place. Once all this was firm, I popped in the side panels so they abutted the bonnet and glued them into position. It left a small gap between the sides and the wheel arches, but not enough to concern me. If you follow the instructions - which have you glue the sides to the wheel arches before the bonnet - the gap would have been far more noticeable being between the sides and bonnet top. Next came the cargo body. I elected to go for the covered version, but parts are also offered for you to leave it open. This was even more challenging to assemble, but everything worked out fine. Some filling and sanding was needed to lose the join lines. The front of the cargo body is also the rear of the cab, and it was not obvious to me from the instructions how it was to be positioned. However, all became clear once I tried assembling the cargo body onto the chassis. In fact, everything just clipped into place, which was ideal for the painting and weathering steps. I ground a relief into the ends to the rolled-up tarp. The dimples were painted dark earth before the part was glued into place: Some pre-shading was done by brush before the canvas parts were placed in position for airbrushing (sorry for the wobbly photo): The cab was masked using moistened kitchen roll. Some diluted PVA glue was applied over the outside to stiffen the covering. Some water was dripped on and allowed to soften the paper when the time came to remove it once painting was done: That's it for now - I don't want to bore the pants off you. I'll post how painting progressed shortly. Cheers, Pat
  8. Aircraft in Miniature Limited (AiM) is to release 1/72nd and 1/48th RAF Super Taskmaster tractor resin kits - ref. GE72049 & GE48049. Source: http://www.aim72.co.uk/page164.html V.P.
  9. Matchbox certainly chose some interesting and obscure subjects for their kits. Nowadays we have become used to seeing short-run unusual aircraft kits, but in the late 1970s this was a bit of a gamble to to try and avoid overlap with the established major UK kit manufacturers. This one came from last year's Telford Kit Swap and although its decals were a little tired, it has been a very satisfying build of something that I knew very little about. As you would expect from Matchbox, it assembles with no real issues although you have to take a little care with the separate nose sections and the split cowl. It also has a rather fragile undercarriage (cue the marvelous Matchbox stand). Replacement vacform canopies are readily available (and the previous owner included a set of these), but I'm not sure they are actually needed so I used the kit set instead. I built up the space behind the pilot's seat with plastic card to reflect the frame and head rest, plus added some paper seatbelts. Two nicely moulded aircrew figures joined the spares box. The tropical air filter is actually included on the sprue, but not listed on the instructions - I fitted it as an afterthought having seen it on reference pictures and as a result, it is a little lower than it should be. The wire aerial is stretched lycra thread. Hairy brush painted as always, using Humbrol enamels and top coated with Klear to apply the transfers, followed by a finishing coat of matt Windsor & Newton acrylic varnish. FredT
  10. I thought this photograph from World War Photos was interesting. Captioned as being taken in 1941 at Tulsa, Oklahoma. No serials or squadron identifiers on the P-40's or what appears to be an LB-30. Anybody have any ideas? Mike https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/usa/aircrafts-2-3/p-40-warhawk/early-b-24-bomber-and-curtiss-p-40-fighters-in-tulsa-1941/
  11. Hallo again Here are my two Avro Anson. From Classic Airframe in 1/48. Etched parts are from FlyPath. This a/c I built some years ago. At this time, it was the biggest challenge for me, because of the transparencies. Actually all knots of the internal frame I had to make metal pins and holes, to get them fixed and proof the accuracy of fit. For paint, I used Gunze H colors. Happy modelling
  12. Hi, Just a quick question, I'm working on a spitfire maintenance diorama in 1940 and I wondered what type of fuel tanker(s) would of been used to fuel a spitfire at this time? Many thanks, PlasticSoldier
  13. Houchin 25Kva Ground Power Unit 1:72 & 1:48 VideoAviation To a great many modellers the mentioning of the name of this essential piece of kit might still garner a response such as "A what now?", but without these unassuming boxes providing an aircraft on the ground with power, technicians and crews couldn't work on the systems without lighting up the engines so that the aircraft could have electrical power. Whenever an aircraft was preparing for flight, or engaging in maintenance, there would always be one of these nearby chugging away and generating the power needed to run the systems. This particular unit was used at the height of the Cold War to power the Lightning, Hunter, Phantom, Buccaneer, Harrier, Jaguar and Sea King to name a few, supplying them with 28v DC and 200v AC on two separate connections. It lapsed into obsolescence which the introduction of the Tornado which needed more power for its advanced systems, and retirement of the older aircraft from the RAF's fleet. The resin set is available in both scales, both of which arrive in almost identical clamshell boxes, with the light tan-coloured parts in ziplok bags swaddled in bubble wrap. Under the card insert is the instruction sheet, which details construction in an isometric format. The smaller set forgoes the opening stowage panniers, the small Photo-Etch (PE) sheet, and the hoses that can be stored inside. 1:48 Houchin 25Kva GPU (160948) This set includes sixteen resin parts, a small fret of PE and two gauges of flexible black tubing, plus a small sheet of decals with yellow stripes and data plate. Construction is simple, with the main body attaching to the chassis, and the four wheels on two axles, one of which is fixed, the other on a turntable for towing behind a suitable ground vehicle. The opening lids of the boxes are separate, as are the hubs of the wheels, and the PE is used for door latches, brackets and a towing eye on the rear of the body. The instructions providing painting guide to the details, and advise yellow or green for the body, depending on whether you are modelling an early or late device respectively. 1:72 Houchin 25Kva GPU (161272) Assembling in the same manner as the larger version, this set has only ten resin parts, as the storage panniers are moulded closed, and the hubs moulded into the wheels. At this scale the parts made from PE would have been too small to handle, so these have been moulded-in for ease. The decal sheet and colour call-outs are identical except for their size of course. Conclusion A great addition to any ground-handling diorama that won't tax your skills to complete. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Hallo again This is my HP Halifax in 1/48. The kit is from FM. Not easy to get a representative result. Together with my wife, we also worked about 3 months. After the HP Hampden. The kit was a nightmare. Lots of interior we scratched and we asked Sanger for the drawings. We were lucky, since the restoration of a Halifax took place in Canada. So many valuable photos were available on the web. After my Lancaster, the B-17 and B-24 it was my last four engine bomber. Happy modelling
  15. Hallo again This is our Wellington. Scale 1/48. Together with my wife https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/profile/27137-ruth/ I build it. It was a huge birthday gift from her with all available aftermarket products and literature at this time available on the market. We saw the Wellington in Hendon already before. For this distinctive a/c, I found enough photos from all views. Few days ago, I read a post about somebodies Wellington, about incendiary bombs; well here, they are from Flight Path. The bomb bay with etched parts from Eduard was at this time a masterpiece for me. Maybe it inspires one of you to catch up some ideas of modelling. Since we (my wife and me) are new on the forum, we want to represent you all a glimpse of our modelling in the past years. We actually wanted to build always aircrafts we wanted to build, and not being dictated by the market. Our choice was often combined with much more effort, since short run kits or highly detailed kits are this way. So I did also the side step with the vacuum-kits from Sanger. Happy modelling
  16. Hallo again This is my Welkin in 1/48 as a resin kit from Planet. Not so easy to build, but actually a wonderful quality for these days. The gluing was the process with Epoxy. CA is impractical due to large areas and short time to cure. 5 or 10 minutes Epoxy worked well. The literature from 4plus was superb. Happy modelling
  17. Hallo again This is my HP Hempden in 1/48. The kit is from FM. Not easy to get a representative result. Together with my wife, we worked about 3 months. It was not easy to get the kit parts to fit. Lots of interior we scratched and we asked Sanger for glasses. Without the glasses from Sanger, we never would have finished the model. The model was for our exhibition. This exhibition was in Vienna in context of our show from IPMS-Austria (GoMo) at 2009. The topic was Multi Engine Propeller Driven Aircraft. The model was the eye catcher of the show. After the show, a storm blew the box with the Hamden away. The model was completely demolished. I was in tears! Friend of us saw the scene and asked for the wreckage. Take it! After ten days, he showed up with the new Hampden! The old one fixed and made as Met Flight aircraft. Well, this is the story behind. Happy modelling
  18. Thanks onosendai! Videoaviation (http://www.videoaviation.com/) has released 1/72nd & 1/48th Schopf F59 modern RAF/Royal NAVY tractor resin kits. 1/48: http://www.videoaviation.com/ground-support/148-modern-rafr-n-tractor/ 1/72: http://www.videoaviation.com/ground-support/172-modern-rafr-n-tractor/ http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235019686-172-modern-rafrnavy-tractor/ V.P.
  19. Evening all, Here is my Airfix GR9a starter kit that my daughter got me for fathers day. Its a starter kit and I still managed to get something wrong. Seems like I've got the vent pieces for the intake area the wrong way round but didn't click until it was too late. Also a few other things that aren't right but had to get it done to show the little boss. I also got the CMK resin cockpit set but only ended up using the tub,seat and main panel, didnt want to start cutting pieces off the model for the other bits and the stick wasnt as good as the one that came with the kit. Well anyway here it is and lets hope it dont offend your eyes too much lol.
  20. Hallo again Here is my Tornado. The kit was Revell. Moreover, from my friend I got a very old kit with Zeppelin tanks. I did the desert pink, because here you can show weathering! I wanted to show a real a/c. It is not 100% accurate, but I was at this time satisfied with it. B.T.W. the engine of the Tornado was at this time the most sophisticated and reliable jet engine of the world. Happy modelling
  21. Hello all ... This is fresh from the P-39 Single type G/Build. I am a confessed Corsair nut, my 2nd favorite WW2 aircraft was the Bell P-39 series. I have built approximately 1 dozen over the years including one other Airacobra Mk.I but that was wearing Russian stars, I lacked the correct decals. I decided to do a british Cobra at this time because i had the decals for 601 Squadron this time. Anyhow I opted to use the H/boss easybuild P-39n in 1/72 as my base, as they're cheap and easy to work with. Without further talk i present to you my Royal Cobra. Please feel free to question, comment, or joke. Here is a link to the WIP if you're interested. Dennis
  22. Built mostly oob. I added a crew man in the wheel house and a figure in each turret. I added a chain length and a coil of rope to the anchor. I do have too many aerial separators on those wires tho I changed the boat number from the kit ones as I didn't want a well known boat
  23. Tamiya kit with Revell decals. Fit was perfect. The Revell decals were rather thick. The ones on the upper surfaces went down OK after I applied some Vallejo decal softener, but the lower wing roundels refused to conform to the panel lines. I´ll have to find Microsolfor the next time. The bombs were painted Revell 66 Olive Grey, which was said to be Olive Drab on Scalemates, but it looks too grey.
  24. Hallo This model is from Planet 1/48. Resin kit. All interior was upgraded and improved. At this time, it was our very summit of modelling. Since Hannants sold them cheaper for whatever reason, we bought two land versions and two sea versions. Again my wife and me. We did again all four models. She was Greek and me was British (from Abukir in Egypt), ex Yugoslavian. Happy modelling
  25. Good evening all, I got a bit of a steal on eBay and found this started Lightning F.2A/F.6 for £15. A real Mojo restorer! There were some parts painted and built and the decals were unuseable as they were water damaged, so having an F.6 which I intended to build in a grey scheme I hatched a plan to use the 11 squadron stencils and some Model Alliance decals to build the 'King Cobra', Flagship 92 of Wing Cdr Mitchell. Humbrol metal cote aluminium was used for the undersides with some panels picked out in Bare Metal Foil (Matte Aluminium). Topsides were Humbrol 163 aerosol with a Flory wash and tonal variation was acheived by using matte and satin lacquers on different panels. Enjoy.
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