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This is the 1/48 Monogram Pro Modeler version of the P-38. I started this for the P-38 group build, but like so many other group builds, I manage to finish them just after the build ends. Oh well. The scheme is from Kagero and depicts the Nulli Secundus/X Virgin flown in the Pacific theater. Both the kit and the decals were a joy to work with. Now the kit decals that had to be used, they were a mess due to age and brittleness. Other than my own lack of modeling skills, this kit went together well and didn’t really have any faults. Me, I got faults. If you look closely at the pictures, you will see I had to use a stand to keep the tail from resting on the ground; just didn’t put enough ballast in the nose. Anyway, the WIP thread is here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234983215-nulli-secundus-p-38/ if you are so inclined to see a half-baked attempt at producing a model. (It may just be me, but I am still intimidated by putting up kits because of the excellent quality of work on this site. It just humbles me.) Oh well, on to the pictures: Rats, I still forgot to fix that one gun out of alignment. Mental note 1 Of course after I take the pictures and am posting them online, I notice other things besides the gun being out of alignment. Like the balancers on the tail are missing. (Of course I knocked them off a couple of times and just put them aside for safe keeping.) And, I guess this guy didn’t like talking on the radio as he has no radio wires. Need to add that. And while I am at is, I really don’t like the joint of the front windshield. So maybe this isn’t a total RFI, but its close! As always, all comments are welcome.

I would like to offer Monogram’s 1/48 ProModeler P-38 G/H Lightning done with Kagero decals for a P-38G flown by Lt. Kenneth G. Ladd, 80th FS/ 8th FG, Dobodura, New Guinea during 1943/44. It is called the Nulli Secundus/X-Virgin with “Ruthie” on the outer port engine. This kit has been around for a long, long time, back in the 60s or 70s when it first came out. The version I have is a 2002 reboxing with some new decals. (More about that later). Other than Accurate Miniatures, I cannot think of a line that has better instructions than the old ProModeler series. Most of them have pictures of actual aircraft (not the best quality, but at least they are there) and some helpful hints on how to make your build better. Anyway, looking forward to this build to help get my modeling mojo back. Here are the box and sprue shots. And here is the Kagero scheme I will be attempting to replicate. The cockpit is first up as it is inserted into the top fuselage half. The parts layout consists of 10 pieces. Detail for the kit’s age is not too bad Once the cockpit is built up, it rests on top of the nose wheel well. I am going to use the ladder provided in the kit, so I have to open up the bottom of the lower fuselage half. The cockpit parts get their base coat of either chromate green or NATO black. Then the weathering and dry brushing begins Once the parts are painted, dry brushed and weathered, the kit detail is pretty darned good. Especially when you consider this kit is about 50 years old. The detail on the control wheel and instrument panel are better than some modern kits that are just coming out. Assembly of the cockpit begins with the seat, the control yoke and wheel, instrument panel, rudder pedals and side panels. Some more details have been picked out to add a bit of color to the cockpit. Although given the fuselage opening, I doubt much will be seen. Must make a mental note to myself to not close up the cockpit before I source some seat belts for this plane. The cockpit is inserted into the bottom fuselage half. Next up, the wheel wells need to be built up to be inserted into each tail boom. The wheel well consists of a roof and two sides. The roof of the port wing well is warped. So with the application of brute force, some CA glue and accelerator, the roof is conformed for the most part to the wheel well sides and is now pretty square. I was hoping the starboard roof would be in better shape. No luck, it is even more warped than the port side. So some more persuasion is used. Then the two wheel wells are placed inside of each tail boom and the two tail boom halves are sealed. The kit instructions would have you place the undercarriage at this time, but with some dry fit testing, the undercarriage can be added after painting making my masking a whole lot easier. After the booms are glued together, the scoop faces and intake are put on each boom The upper fuselage half is glued to the two booms. Then the bottom half is attached to the upper half and fuselage booms. At the same time the main tail piece is fit between the two booms to make sure everything lines up correctly. Twin boom planes are always fun and games to align, but the engineering of this kit makes it a very easy thing to do. Some tape is applied to keep everything in place as the glue dries. While I wait for the glue to dry I start the job I like least in modeling, masking the canopy. Yechhhh. And why do I hate masking canopies, could it be this: Earlier in the day I had masked a canopy for an F-117 with all of its fun sharp angles and points. No problem. With this canopy and fairly simple lines, I skewer myself. This is why I buy pre- cut masks right? I tape up my finger, finish the rest of the canopy masking, (I cheated, but more on that later) and by that time the glue has set on the mainframe because I am so slow at masking. The tape is removed and now I get to inspect the seams for “irregularities” that must be corrected. And there are a few: So the plane is puttied up and left to dry overnight. While I wait for the putty to dry, I work on the propellers. These consist of a hub, 3 separate propellers, and a spinner. Now the kit comes with 4 propellers per engine. Why 4, I have no idea? Is there some P-38 variant I missed that had 4 propellers? Anyway, according to the paint scheme the back part of the hub is black, the blades are black with yellow tips, and the spinner has a green tip with a white stripe. It is morning now and the always enjoyable (not!) task of sanding the seams presents itself. So various grades of sandpaper are used to get rid of the seams and smooth everything out. The grey undersides are painted, let dry and then masked for the upper olive drab. The olive drab is then applied Now the picture tonal quality is a bit warped as the weather outside is not ideal. So the spray was done in the bathroom with the vent to the outside on so I don’t poison anyone else. Obviously the bathroom lighting leaves a bit to be desired. Might have to get different lights. Once dry, the olive drab seems to be spot on. The tape is removed and the green tips to the tail fins are applied. Once that dries, a coat or two of future is applied to get ready for the decals. Now the kit decals will have to be used for the national insignia and stencils. The Kagero decals only have items specific to each paint scheme. I start with the topside decals and stencils from the kit. The kit decals, though only from 2002 did not hold up well. They were fragile, took a long time to release from the backing and if I looked at them wrong, shattered apart. Almost every kit decal had to be pieced together. Since this will be a tired old plane, it may work out in my favor, but putting them on was very frustrating. I can’t wait for the Kagero decals. I start with the port side. The Kagero decals were superb. They went on well, could be moved around to get in the right position and reacted very favorably to Micro Sol. The kit decals, more shattering and piecing together. The starboard side decals were next. The nose art went on smoothly and looks great. The bottom was done using the rest of the kit decals, but less shattering for some reason. Now, I am going to let everything dry and let Micro Sol do its thing. Next up will be a protective coat of future and then the weathering will commence. I am still cogitating on how best to proceed with dirtying this bird up. As always, all comments are welcome.