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  1. Mr Airbrush Custom 0.18 (PS-770) Mr Hobby via Air-craft.net I've reviewed a few of these airbrushes from Martin at Air-Craft.net, and I'm a big fan, using the PS-270 as my main airbrush for a while now. We were talking about it the other day and he suggested I might want to try their new detail airbrush as he thought I would like it. He's right. I do. Very much. It is an up-market specialist airbrush that I think really has wider appeal, and I have used it for more than just detail work in my recent tests. The airbrush arrives from Martin in the usual sized box, with a plastic case within that is protected during shipping by a disposable sheet of clear plastic so that your storage box doesn't arrive marred by ugly scratches. The lid is transparent, and inside is the airbrush and nozzle key in a tough grey foam insert, with another white insert behind that contains the hose with threaded ends that is largely useless outside the Far East, as they're non-standard and won't fit much we get here in the UK. If you're buying a detail airbrush however, you're highly unlikely to be using bottled propellant anyway, and more likely to be hooking up to a compressor. A quick disconnect (QD) bayonet is included, but again it's a Mr.Hobby specific one, so put it in the drawer with the hose and use a standard hose, or pick up a relatively inexpensive QD adapter that's suitable for your hose. I love them, particularly as I'm always swapping and changing airbrushes, with a few on the go at any one time. Under the useless QD connector is an industry standard 1/8" BSP air valve, so your hose or QD will just screw right onto it. The airbrush itself is finished in satin chrome, which looks a bit strange compared to all the shiny airbrushes out there at first, but grows on you as time goes by and sets it apart from the rest. It has a quality feel, and the pre-set screw at the rear of the handle gives a definite "precision instrument" impression, as does the finger relief scallop just behind the cup, which is present on both sides to cater for left and right-handed modellers. The min-MAC valve under the cup allows fine adjustment of air pressure without ducking under the desk to adjust your regulator, although I seldom use mine and tend to leave them wide open. The nozzle is narrower than other brushes in their range, which gives an idea of the finer needle, but also allows you to get closer to your model without removing the crown in theory. It has the same type of castellated crown as the others and unscrews, but will not be compatible due to the difference in diameter. The nozzle and needle are of similar construction, although the pull-back of the needle seems very slick and fluid, even compared to others from Mr. Hobby, which helps reinforce the feeling of quality. A small silicone cap is provided to protect your crown/needle, but it is a bit tight, so tries to jump off if you leave it on the crown outside the box. Fret not - You don't have poltergeists! The 10ml cup is more than adequate for most purposes, and as it is a detail brush by name, it has plenty of space in there for mixing in situ, or you can fill it to the brim for minimal disruption to your workflow, with the lid ensuring you don't spill it everywhere. Because the needle is much narrower than your average 0.3mm airbrush, you will need to take care when deciding which paints to use it with, and those with a coarse pigment ground will doubtless give you some trouble, as will paints that haven't been properly mixed, or have clumps of pigment or dried paint in them. If in doubt, test your paint choice with a clean airbrush that is dry so you can rule out any blockages due to incompatible thinners or paints congealing with each other. I have used it with Alclad primer, Mr Color Aqueus and Lifecolor so far, and all have sprayed well. When you are spraying fine lines you need to ensure your mix is perfect, as even the smallest foreign contaminant (did you just read that in the voice of the cleaning 'bot from Wall-E?) will cause a momentary "Morse code" stoppage, so if you're attempting squiggle camouflage (a task that this brush is born to do), it's worthwhile considering straining your paint through muslin or a fine straining mesh used by car bodyshops. It will pay you back with fewer problems. I'm actually looking forward to seeing how they perform with the new Real Colours from AK Interactive too. Cleaning the airbrush should be simple enough, and I have been successfully using the backflush method to clean up between colours with no sign of any blockages so far, which is a testament to the design of the airbrush, as this is definitely the lazy way of cleaning an airbrush. Dismantling for a proper clean is straight forward as the brush breaks down in the de facto standard manner, with the nozzle screwing off with the crown, and the provided spanner allowing you to remove the paint nozzle, which is tiny and easily lost, so take care of it. The rear of the handle screws off too to allow better access to the needle nut than the cut-away sides give, and the trigger tension is adjusted by screwing the body of the needle carrier in or out. Personally, I screw mine all the way in for a nice firm trigger. With the nut undone the needle can be withdrawn either toward the back or front, and here again I prefer to use the front as it doesn’t risk contaminating the rear seals and beyond. The nozzles are best flushed with cleaner, and a standard reamer will cut through any residue in the nozzle, but remember not to push too hard for fear of splitting the delicate part. You can complete the cleaning with a dentist's paper point (available cheaply from eBay in various sizes – get a variety pack to see which one will work best for you) to pick up any last debris and ensure everything is spotless. Reassembly is the reverse, and when you have become used to the task, should take less than a couple of minutes. Note: The weathering and soot staining on this model were painted with this airbrush, as were some of the smaller parts. The rest was done before it arrived for review with the Mr.Hobby PS-270. As mentioned above, the airbrush is capable of very fine lines and having noodled it over my test sheet on the front of my spray booth, I can well believe that. It is also capable of spraying larger areas too, so don't dismiss it as a specialist tool with limited usefulness. I got it too late to spray the main colours of my recent Me.262 build, but I did use it to paint some of the ancillaries such as the bombs, RATO pods and to prime some elements of this and other builds, as well as to add dirt and staining to the airframe after main painting was over. You can see the rest of the pictures for that build here. It gives the modeller very finely tuned control over the paint flow, and is a joy to use, which is saying something when I think back to how good my PS-270 has been since I started using it. The Pre-Set handle at the rear of the airbrush can be useful if you are trying to spray a continuous width line, and it allows you to dial-in a preset trigger stop from the outset that removes any guesswork associated with finding your "bite point" and attaining the same width that can be tricky. The knurled dial screws in and out, and if you wish to return to that setting later, you can undo the set-screw in the numbered ring, push it up to the back of the handle, re-tighten it and then dial it back in whenever you want to. One slight issue with this is that the slot on the screw is very narrow, and all but one of the blades of my precision screwdrivers were too thick (note: Not to be confused with width) to fit in the slot. Ensure you have one that fits, or adapt an old screwdriver by thinning it with a Dremel before you need it to avoid frustration. Everyone eventually either bends a needle or splits/wears out their paint nozzle, so having spares available is crucial for a long-term purchase such as an airbrush. Previously this was a bit hit and miss, but Martin has made it his business to improve the situation, so any consumable parts you need are usually available from stock, and if you've really done a number on your pride-and-joy, other parts can be ordered if you've not totally wrecked it beyond economical repair, and if you have, what were you doing??? Conclusion I can't recommend the complete line of Mr. Hobby airbrushes highly enough, and this one in particular is the jewel in the crown, which I can see myself using regularly from now on, providing I get time to do any modelling that is! Martin from Air-Craft is also one of the most friendly and helpful sellers of airbrushes and equipment I have come across, so knowing he's backing you up with good service and keen prices makes this a complete no-brainer, as long as you're not planning on respraying your 1:1 car. That might take a while! Extremely highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  2. Hello! I recently purchased some Mr Hobby paints to make some RAF aircraft, and I've heard good things about H-72 as a match for Dark Earth. However, when the bottle turned up in the post today, it didn't look at all like what I was expecting. It got me wondering if the mix has changed at any point. To illustrate, this is the sort of thing I was expecting: It's got a bit of khaki/yellow/green to it, not a pure brown. And the one I received looked more like this: Even that is not quite right, the one I have looks ever so slightly paler/less saturated colour (very close match the lid of Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth acrylic), but its very brown, possibly a tiny bit reddish. So, does anyone know if the mix has changed? If so, are there any opinions on which version is more accurate? Thanks!
  3. Fourth one complete from my WIP. See here - This build from around page 8 through to 11. Now discovered several things wrong with it regarding the markings, see bottom post at the end. Real plane in question http://www.dstorm.eu/pictures/nose-arts/f-14/159611_1.jpg http://www.dstorm.eu/pictures/nose-arts/f-14/159611_3.jpg VF32 cag 200 desert storm wearing the squadrons kills from a couple years prior. As its the cag plane its in a retro type gull grey high viz type paint job with contrasting light ghost grey missiles. The rest of the squadrons planes would've been all wearing the TPS. This build counted as an OOB type as has some minor tweaks only to the base parts for accuracy or features relevant to this plane instead of loads of aftermarket. Depicted in an engines on (both nozzles open) and all loaded up ready to taxi across the deck to the cat for take off. Crew giving a thumbs up left and right. In summary- -Fuel dump pipe drilled out. -Arrestor hook shortened. -ECM bumps added. -Spine blade antenna shortened. -Panel lines scribed on exhaust shroud sides. -Nose pitot section corrected (too large) so it was glued on then the 'metal part' cut off for adding later. -Etch spares for ejection handles and mirrors. -Revell NATO set pilots added. From my resin project/masters: TCS lens drilled out/de-seamed. Wheels grooved and flat spotted. Part behind RIO's headrest added. Exhaust tubes (ribbed-Hasegawa) Main decals were from an old mircoscale sheet. A lot of the stencils came from spares. Missile data (54C's and live band colours) from an airfix sheet and home made decal bits also. Painted with Mr Hobby aqueous and Mr Metal buffing colors. Pilots/cockpit detailed with Revell Aqua. Xtracrylix satin varnish to seal airframe. Weathered with mig panel line washes and streaked with mig ammo oil brushers Hope you like it - something different with insignia blue on it instead of all the black fin Jolly Roger cats people build! Thanks for looking!
  4. Procon Boy WA Trigger Type Double-Action 0.3mm Airbrush (PS-275) Mr Hobby via Air-craft.net We reviewed this airbrush's stablemate two years ago ([url= http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235008778-mr-hobby-procon-boy-fwa-platinum-double-action-airbrush]here[/url]) at time of writing, and it has gone on to become one of my favourite airbrushes, giving me reliable and easy-maintenance service throughout this period, with no problems despite my fairly lax cleaning regime. This has endeared the brand to me no end, so when Martin offered this slightly wider nozzled brush for review, I had no qualms about saying "yes please". I'll let you into a secret here – I tested this airbrush around a year ago, then promptly forgot to do the review! I'm well-known for having a poor memory, but I remember this airbrush well, and will be able to give an informed opinion on it notwithstanding the intervening delay. This model is a trigger operated airbrush from the Mr Hobby range, who you'll possibly recognise from their Gunze Sangyo Mr Color and Aqueous Hobby Color range of paints. The Japanese heritage explains the overlong and somewhat cutesie name, but don't let that put you off one iota, as you can also refer to them by their product code, which in this case is PS-275. The airbrush arrives in a small oblong card outer box, with a sheet of clear acetate protecting the front of the inner box which is plastic and has a clear lid. Inside is the airbrush and accessories, coddled in tight-fitting foam inserts, which consists of the airbrush with screw-in 7ml paint cup stored in its own recess, nozzle spanner, air hose and air can adapter, both of which are of little use to the "serious" modeller, as they are both specific to Mr Hobby air bottles, which are hard to come by outside the Far East. There is also a two-piece quick-release adapter for the brush, but this again is specific to Mr Hobby gear, so not of much use. Again – don't let this put you off, as they're not really important and more useful items can be sourced cheaply at purchase time. Build quality is excellent, and the brush has a nice weighty feel in the handy, and you immediately notice that it has a rather short body, which is due to the manner in which the trigger is mounted. The needle is found inside the screw-off rear of the brush, with a set-screw in the rear for limiting the needle's travel, and as normal there is a needle chuck-nut, and a tension adjuster stacked behind each other around the needle. The needle is also shorter than usual, and the needle assembly can be withdrawn from the body by unscrewing it whilst holding the knurled lip for deep cleaning or seal replacement. At the front there is a screw-off crown, the air cap, and inside the tiny paint nozzle, which is removed using the supplied spanner, and if you have any common-sense, you'll unscrew it over a flat surface so you don't lose it! They are small, just in case I hadn't made that clear enough. The crown is a complete one, having no cut-outs around its edge, so viewing the needle can't be done from the sides. This is a two-edged sword, because it protects your needle better, but makes inspection and blowing back thinners to clean your brush a little trickier. You can get a small plastic cap that fits over the airbrush tip to make this easier, and they cost pennies – or you can risk stabbing yourself and put your finger over the nozzle. The 0.3mm nozzle is perfectly suited to airbrushing larger areas, with a nice clean spray pattern and a reduced likelihood of clogging due to paint particles. It's also good for spraying less finely ground pigments, which are found in some brands of paint. I used it for a month or so for spraying areas as well as varnishes, and enjoyed having it in the workshop. It isn't designed to be a detail brush, so don't expect it to perform as such and you'll be very happy with your purchase. Some folks don't get on with the trigger-style airbrushes, but having only ever used traditional top-mounted brushes, I found the transition quite painless. The first fraction of the pull begins airflow, and then the needle starts to go back, and with your trigger-figure having good muscle memory (which is probably why it got the job), it is easy to recover your "bite" after recommencing spraying. Spares are readily available from Martin, and are reasonably priced, but if you can bend a 0.3mm needle, you perhaps need to be a bit more careful! The nozzles will eventually wear, so it's a good idea to have one of these in stock just in case, and give some thought to keeping other consumables in stock too, so you don't interrupt your hobby. Martin's spares service is fast, and he packages small orders in letterbox friendly boxes, which I thought was quite a good idea in the modern world where no-one's postie arrives before 9am. Conclusion Another winning design from the Mr Hobby stable. As we know (you did read my earlier review, I hope?), they're inspired by the design of a well-known competitor, but they have carved out their own niche in my workshop, and if you give them a go, you'll probably join the club. The 0.3mm nozzle is great for more general airbrush work, which will be just fine if you don't get down and dirty with airbrushing individual hairs on figures (for example), and the reliability of the brand is excellent in my experience. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of Martin at
  5. Here is another of my occasional 1/48 builds, the Eduard Messerschmitt Bf109G6. A lot has been posted online about the accuracy of this kit and building it alongside 2 other 109s the difference in size is instantly apparent. As a 109 fan I was rather disappointed initially but once I started building that disappointment all but vanished as the kit is a delight to build with superb detail inside and on the surface so it's portliness is forgiven on this occasion. Other than sand off the strange bumps at the wing root everything else is OOB including the strange undercarriage leg angle. I painted this one as Major Franzisket's aircraft as the other decal options all have some issues, several were ERLA built G6s so should have had the extra cowl bulges on the right side but Eduard didn't include them and one of the options colour schemes is actually a mixture of 2 aircraft from different factories. I've gone a bit overboard with the weathering as the photos I've seen showed this aircraft to be very clean, I'll put it down to artist licence. Duncan B
  6. Opening a new can of worms today with a question for Luftwaffe modellers. What paint brand do you use for RLM78? I have various brands attempts at RLM78 but none of them seem to get close to the paint chips that I have for that colour (Merrick's and Eagle Editions). I have the following versions of RLM78: Polyscale, Vallejo's Model Air, Mr Color, Mr Hobby, Xtracrylix, Hataki, AK Interactive. They are all either too purple, too dark or basically just wrong so what other recommendations do we have out there please? Duncan B
  7. So for this build the quartet will be a f-16cj by tamiya in the 'have glass scheme' by hataka, (caracal next gen vipers), and an F-16N by hasegawa, and a Revell C in the new mission models paints. Last addition is the Academy KF-16C that will be wearing Xtracrylix. The tamiya will have an eduard etch zoom upgrade, masks with resin wheels & exhaust . Paint by hataka. The Hasgawa will be pretty much out of the box, with an Eduard canopy mask. It will have the exhaust, wheels and seat dressed up. Latest addition is a Revell C, with caracal lonestar decals. Mission models paints. (Will have to mix three shades of grey from black and white). Upgradings - wheels, seat and ordnance. Final is Academy bird with resin wheels, seat and exhaust. itching to start... Tamiya cj RFI Hasegawa N RFI Revell C RFI RFI And here they all are together! Thanks for looking Tony
  8. Hello and here is my 1/72 Hasegawa F16N, completed for the STGB. WIP here: Pretty much as it comes, but had some revell upgradings - bang seat, main wheels and winders. Then from my casting project - Hasegawa GE tube and AB face from a B/D tomcat, and a GE nozzle from the fujimi B/D tomcat. Bad bits- I should have scratched a tacts pod out of one of the winders but couldn't be bothered. One of the main wheels set slightly wonky. Also canopy tint is a bit rubbish. Three weeks to complete, could have been less if I didn't have concurrent activity disease. Also lost a few days removing the wing walk decals to make it more accurate (thanks @Pappy ) and then subsequently repairing/touching up the paint, but it turned out better in the end for it. Primed in stynylrez, then mr hobby camo 324/317/337. Nose cone 306 grey. Intake cockpit and some bits in 308 grey. 316 white u/c and bays. Revell Aqua anthracite for scale black bits. Revell 90 silver on probes, oleos and nav lights. Nav lights then done in clear colors. Exhaust in alclad magnesium & pale burnt metal. Sealed with ak gauzy between decals and weathering etc. Weathering was some post shading and fading with mr paint basics black and white to make some dirty greys. Ak panel liner for blue and grey camo overall. Grey filter used as a wash for the white bits. Track wash on the exhaust bits and for some general grime streaks. Final coat was ak ultra matt. Enjoy!
  9. Here is my next venture into 1/48 scale, the Hasegawa Bf109F painted up as Eberhard von Boremski's F4. The kit was very easy to make, I added the external stiffeners to the rear fuselage as I was originally going to be making another aircraft but had a paint issue so changed my plans quite late on. The photos I saw of this aircraft indicate that it might not have had the external stiffeners but they are there now. Painted with my usual Mr Hobby paints. I used decals by EagleCals and Montex masks for the Balkan crosses. I used the photos in the Luftwaffe Colours Vol. 3 Sec. 4 for inspiration although I didn't follow them exactly as the demarcation between colours should have had a slightly softer edge to them in reality. Only light weathering (except for the prop as I got a bit carried away with that!) as the photos were taken while the Unit was re-equiping onto these aircraft although the wing roots did have a lot of mud and dust visible. Duncan B
  10. After what seems like a long time (because it has been) I've completed my ICM Bf109 F4 as a Jabo of JG53 using Montex Masks and decals, painted using Mr Hobby acrylics. The kit includes an engine however I didn't have a lot of luck getting it to all line up so made it closed up. I used a colour profile in Kagero's Monograph Series Bf109F Vol 2 as the basis for the paint job. My first attempt at using Montex masks for the Balkan crosses, I didn't fancy using the supplied Swastikas though. I'm not sure I'd bother with the masks if I was to do it again. I replaced the kit's wheels with spares from an Eduard bf109 and that supplied the bomb and rack too. I hope you like it. Duncan B
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