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Found 11 results

  1. Might as well make a start. Not got enough on the go Using the hasegawa limited edition boxing decals for either: The last demo flight from vf101. Quite dirty and lots of repainted bits visible in this retro scheme - https://www.jetphotos.com/photo/5615347 Or the tps sunset scheme. Cruise weary paint job with fresh painted tails. Sister bird 103 had the same tail markings but in colour on a retro gull/white paint job. https://tvrphoto.photoshelter.com/image/I0000h1b4pwRhduM Not sure which one to do. Perhaps both? One could be open and the other closed as plenty of removable panels on the FM kit. What you guys reckon? 101 or 31? Pics of kit(s) and decal sheets later. Bye for now... Edit - decided to do both!
  2. Hi guys, latest finished build from the new academy kit. Built over past month and a half or so. Full details in WIP (link at end) Pretty much out of the box, its a great kit with loads of optional parts to build nearly all versions. I built mine as an A Plus (later re-designated as B.) from the Pukin Dogs around 1990. Not many of these on the web - drab line utilitarian missile jets before the bombcat era. Only had to mod two things to suit the specific time frame - sand bumps off of the Aim-54’s to make them the C version, and then sand off the molded gps ‘bombcat only’ dome on the spine. Note that the kit doesn’t tell you to do that. Also a couple improvements I made to the kits parts was to drill out the fuel dump on tail and. TCS lens on the chinpod (inside then painted and filled with kristal kleer) Couple of additions to suit my build or because they were missing from the kit - 1. Decals obviously, including the using spares for correct markings for the later missles. Main markings from the old Revell A plus kit (italeri plastic circa 1993) 2. Home printed decals to detail GE nozzles inside & out. 3. Seatbelts from some spare etch as none provided with kit. 4. Mirrors for inside of canopy. 5. Nose gear retraction arm (spare from a hboss f-14 as you get two complete front gears in that kit) Wearing Mr paint blackbased over Stynylrez - dark ghost uppers light ghost lowers. Then a 50/50 mix of light ghost & white for touch up. AK xtreme metals for shiny bits - see wip for which ones where. Mission models paints for all hand painted details. Aquagloss pre & post decals. Mig ammo washes and oilbrushers for weathering. Mr paint super clear matt for final coat. Cockpit all hand painted - don’t like using console/IP decals. Painted a few stencils on seat headrest sides and on strut brace wedge as none provided on stock decal sheet. Enough waffle, any points or questions please feel free. Main paints used for scale. Thanks for looking and hope you like it. WIP -
  3. Hi gents, another F-14 finished this week... Been on and off this kit for about a year and a half. One of those you want to do but are scared to do it justice... This was the Executive officers jet from the Tomcatters final cruise. After landing back at NAS Oceana this jet 102 and another 103 were done up in some commemorative markings for the Tomcat sunset ceremony in September 2006. AJ103 had a full retro repaint in gloss gull grey over white with full colour markings and special tail art. AJ102 had the tails repainted to remove Felix and the AJ - they were replaced by the same artwork as 103 but done but in a low viz style. Also the vf-31 on the ventrals and the crew names were painted out as the jet was about being Grumman’s last fighter. Some jets like this one from the squadron also had their ‘Date of birth’ added to the nose gear doors. Sadly on the day of the parade, 102 taxied past the crowd but didn’t fly in the ceremony due to a technical issue. Before she and the others finally went the bone yard, vf-31 was re-added to ventrals and the names of the crew who flew her there for her last flight were put on as well. How I have tried to depict her is of the days leading up to said ceremony, so fresher tails and canopy sides and patches on ventrals to suggest overpainting. Panels all open for maintenance. Lantirn pod, fuel tanks and pallets/bombracks still fitted. These were stripped off by the ceremony. The kit - the Finemolds is supposedly the holy grail of F-14’s, yes it is nice but there are some bits that could be better. Still no perfect kit yet... I improved it with a few bits- from Finemolds themselves - Nano series injection seatbelts, Lantirn pod and brass pitot. Then some parts from my resin project - GE nozzles/tubes and AB faces, modded hasegawa bombracks to fit FM pallets and ‘empty’ bol rails and sparrow adapter. Details added/scratched - true details wheels, a brass rod strut to support open radome, u/c RBF tags, mirrors and handle inside open canopy, added rivet holes around edges of all open panels, drilled out sides of boarding ladder. Finishing - I used decals from a hasegawa boxing that contained the markings for both 102 & 103. (Box art features 103) The decals were quite light so lighter shades of Mr Paint were used for the tps scheme to maintain the correct contrast with the markings. Lantrin painted and numbered to match one it carried on return from last cruise. Post shade maskol technique for corrosion control effect. Metals all Alclad. All brushed areas like pit and open panels were detailed with mission models. Weathering done with mig ammo washes and oilbrushers. That’s about it. Sorry it’s pic heavy but there is alot to see on this! Also some are quite close in to show said details in kit and/or are overexposed so bear warts and all! Tony Main paints used for scale. General views. Pit area. In detail. Super close ups General undersides. Internals Again as always, thanks for looking.
  4. Finished! Hi guys. Going to try and do a wip for this new kit. Although one thing I have decided for 2020 is to concentrate on building and RFI’s, as WIP’ing can take up as much time as the build itself. Anyways moving swiftly on, going to build it OOB with just improvements by tools only eg thinning or drilling to modify the kit parts, no aftermarket at all. The only thing I am going to change is the decals for the version I want to build. Also will need to sort some seatbelts as none provided but that’s it. So this is going to be an A plus, early nineties. Most probably from vf74, the first sqn to get them. Should be able to piece together a nice bland tps line bird from my decal collection. So to make this an A plus I will not follow the instructions to the letter and use these parts instead All GE relevant engine parts. Std nose pitot. Fill AoA probe hole in fuselage side. Use NACA gun vent panel. Use tails with late T shape plates. Use Tall tacan spine antenna. Add second ecm bumps under glove vanes. Use beavertail with ecm bump. Use nose gear door with ecm bump. Leave ecm bumps on leading edges near intake walkways. Use mid main wheel hubs. Remove gps dome from spine. Modify Aim-54 to C versions. Fill P&W drain hole detail in nacelles. That’s all I can think of/remember for now as I’m writing this 250miles from the kit currently... It will wear Mr Paint for its main camo, as frustratingly despite having these paints for a few years now, (bought my first lot direct from Slovakia in 2015) I have yet to finish a kit in them. Metals will be AK xtreme and then any hand painted details with mission models. So whats been done so far - Not alot to show really! Mainly busy with ejection pin filling or removing (see pics I posted in the rumour monger thread) but got the cockpit and intake trunking parts started. Also prepped the rest of the metal parts to do concurrently in one metal spraying session as intake fans needed doing. I used ‘jet exhaust’ basically a black with a hint of sparkle for the carbon shrouds as once it’s had a matt coat looks quite good for that kind of thing. Rest is self explanatory. First improvement mods - Exhaust petals needed defining more before painting so they were all scribed right to the end (circled in pic) forgot to take a ‘before’ pic sorry. Also the fuel dump on the beavertail was drilled out while I had the pin vice out opening up pylon/pallet holes (not shown) Thats all for now.
  5. Hi, I'm looking for the tints I should use for a MiG 29 9-12 Late (like GWH 4811 kit) in Russian Air Force camouflage. So, any ideas? Cheers, Sebastien
  6. Time to dust off a model that was built as far as the primer stage about five years ago: Hasegawa F-16A, to be finished as S/N 92-0409 from NAS Fallon circa 2002-2008: and a shot of the blue / grey aggressor scheme - decals will come from the Eduard "Top Falcons" boxing. I also have the Eduard "NATO Falcons" boxing so intend to build two of the NATO versions using those two kits - as one is at a similar stage to this model, it may too appear in KUTA in due course. I'm going to use Mr Paint for the first time and have a set of jsworkmodel masks for the camo. Here is a link to a rather patchy version of the scheme. Mike
  7. A few months ago I went and bought the entire RLM colour range from Mr Paint. These are a lacquer based acrylic paints that come pre mixed in glass bottles for airbrushing only, similar to Alclad. I have only just had the chance to try them out on a complete kit and thought I'd let you all know that they are superb paints to use. I used Mr Paint's white primer as a base and it went on very smoothly and only required a light buff with an old cotton T shirt (to remove the bits of dust I'd managed to miss) to prepare it for the top coat colours. The colours I've used so far are RLM02, 04, 70 and 71 along with some of their basic white and black. All colours went on super smoothly with good coverage, even the 04 Yellow, and they all dried very quickly to a semi gloss finish (except the basic black and white). They were touch dry to a very smooth finish within an hour but I did wait for several hours before applying masking tape just in case they hadn't fully cured. The masking tape didn't lift any paint on removal and didn't mark the paint at all. I have also discovered that Gunze's Mr Color Thinners will work with this brand of paint if required, which is handy, if like me, you have a lot of this stuff already. I'm very impressed so far with these paints and they will possibly even replace my current favourite paint, Mr Color/Hobby from Gunze. Today I will be spraying on a coat of Mr Paint's super Clear Gloss for decaling and weathering onto so I'll see how that goes. Duncan B
  8. From Tamiya new lacquer paints in 10ml bottles https://tamiyablog.com/2017/10/the-long-awaited-new-product-tamiya-color-lacquer-paint-in-bottles-appears/ and from Mr Paint a new range of water based acrylics http://mrpaint.sk/farby/Aqua colors . The Mr Paint ones look interesting for me as they are not smelly like lacquer based paints. Robert
  9. Just thought I'd share my findings of this paint with you guys. I bought these direct a couple months back when they had a free shipping offer on. Part of a bigger project trying out/comparing day fighter schemes paint here: Background: I have been a big fan of Mr Color since returning to the hobby a few years back when it comes to fine freehand camo work. Thick paint (so lasts ages) that requires alot of thinning in sturdy glass jars etc. Was quite expensive & hard to get hold of until recently. Downside is that it stinks when used with leveling thinner to do fine detail work. Also for me I have found the paint has a very narrow window of workable consistency. As in you can have it nice and thin to do camo outlines but when you come to 'colouring in' you can't go much thicker otherwise is spits and splutters and makes 'spider webs'. So it can takes ages to do a camo scheme filling in the areas with thin paint. A very tough satin finish though that can be decalled onto aswell. Along came Mr Paint more recently. A very easy to use pre thinned paint. Very dense though with great covering power. But I dont like the tall bottles, I always make a mess pouring and worried I'm going to knock them over. Also stinks alot. A few concerns on the web regards colour accuracy too. Plus still relatively expensive and not widely available yet. Another problem for me is that if you thin it a bit with say leveling thinner (when going back over tightening up edges) it can dry blotchy and shiny compared to rest of the area. This can make is hard to see what's been painted, and have doubts about the consistency of shade over an area especially if you want solid colour. Enter the new Hataka Orange line - Lacquer / Solvent based acrylics. To go up against the likes of Mr C and P perhaps. Hataka had a bit of a rough start with their very first paint, it could be gritty at times (I have had first hand experience of that) and had some bad press. However they persevered and released a new red line formula which is now awesome. So kudos to them I Say for not going under/giving up. I have had three successful builds using the new formula red line - An X-1, F5N Hellcat & F16CJ. Now this year they have increased their range - we have the blue (brush) and orange (lacquer) to add tonthe improved red line. This orange line has really impressed me. The paint went down very smooth for the MSG undersides and ocean grey topsides. It was when it came to doing the green camo it blew me away. All freehand with a 0.2mm needle and their own thinner. I did this green upper pattern in an hour or so which is really quick for me. These are some of the pros of this new paint (keeping in mind what I said about cons of Mr C and P above) 1. The paint has a much larger window of consistency - from being workable whilst super thin at low pressures and close in for outlines to being able to use it thicker for 'filling in' without massive overspray or splatters. Its really easy to keep the spray pattern tight. So painting is alot quicker. 2. The colour is super smooth and consistent once built up not matter how thin it is was to start with - no blotchy or glossy bits. So all your touching in matches the rest of it. 3. Hardly any smell, nowhere near as bad as the above two. About the same as any other waterbased acrylic. 4. Easy to dispense eye dropper bottles with a shaker in. No mess and no waste. 5. Their lacquer thinner works with Mr Color too. So there is a reduced smell option too now with those. 6. Paint is tough, quick drying and takes masking well. 7. Actual shades of colour look good. 8. Come in nice themed packs of associated colours 9. A few places stock them now and can work out to about £2 a bottle if you shop around. 10. Not a single bit of tip dry or crud build up on the needle during the camo spraying session. I think the only con would be there isn't enough of it available yet! New sets are scheduled soon. Looking forward to the US/USN jet grey set Well done to @HATAKA OFFICIAL for a great product. How tight it that? More than good enough for 1/72. Painting 1/48 kits will be a breeze! Thanks for taking the time to read all this! Try some of this paint, you won't be disappointed Tony
  10. This is something I've been working on for almost a month but is nearly completed now so this isn't a traditional WIP but I though I'd show some of the build photos anyway. This is the Eduard Weekend edition of the Fw190D9 which I was originally going to build right out of the box however when I saw a profile for Red 18 I was hooked. It turned out that I found 4 or more different profiles for Red 18 so this is a bit of a pick'n'mix of them all. I had originally started building this while away on holiday a few years ago but it soon became obvious that I should have taken something a lot simpler with me so after completing the first stage I stopped and put it back in the box which is where it had stayed for the last 3 years. So this is roughly where I set off from three weeks ago. The instructions would have me glue the rear of the engine, the supports and the firewall together as one piece before joining the fuselage halves. I just couldn't see how I was going to get that to work so I fitted the firewall to one fuselage half then fitted the supports and the rear of the engine to the firewall once it was set. This also helped align the fuselage halves which were slightly warped on my kit, possibly due to them having been stored off the sprue. I knew most of the detail of the rear engine was going to disappear once closed up so took another photo of it as completed, I was quite pleased with the way it turned out. And the cockpit, I hate detailing cockpits but didn't have any after-market bits for it other than a set of fabric seatbelt that will be fitted at the end of the build. The firewall and rear of engine in place From underneath... ...and it starts to disappear About this time I noticed that there was something a bit odd to my eye with regards the supercharger air intake. To me it looked like it had been moulded upside down or as a mirror image. In all the photos and drawings I've seen the shorter side is on top. Here's the mirror image, I think that looks better Anyhow there is nothing available to replace it that I could find so I had to go with it. (I've only ever seen this problem mentioned in one review of the kit so it's something that either isn't a problem or hasn't been picked up by many people) I don't normally build my kits with anything open but I'd heard a lot about closing up the gun bay doors on the Eduard Fw190s. I decided I'd give it a go on one of the gun bays anyway and have the rest open. After some dry fitting I thought it would be easy enough to fit the wing root gun cover to the top half of the wing before fitting the whole wing to the fuselage. The cover needed some sanding to get the fuselage side of it to fit snuggly into the fuselage but I had no problems cutting out the upper wing part and gluing the cover in place, I didn't even need any filler on it. The rest of the build went smoothly enough although I did have to sand the back of the wing spar to get one of the upper wing halves to fit, ironically it was the wing that I left the gun bay open. Other than the fit of the wing to fuselage I had no problems worth mentioning. I've read that the front of the fin is too wide but it looks fine to me so I left it alone. As I mentioned earlier while looking for information on which type of canopy to fit I found that there were at least 4 different colour profiles in the various books and decal options I had seen. I knew which colours that the production batch it came from used so at least I could confirm that the profiles were all variations of those colours. After some assistance from a couple of BMers (and an expensive purchase of the JaPo books ) I decided to go with (mostly) the EagleCals version of the colour scheme, I painted the flaps RLM76 whereas EagleCals leave them in bare metal. From the only photo of the underside I've seen it looked like the flaps were missing anyway. I painted the underside of the wing with AK Interactive's Extreme Metal Aluminium which went on beautifully smooth and shiny, too shiny for what I wanted in fact so I toned it down with matt varnish sprayed onto various panels in varying densities to get some variation. This worked really well however I didn't get a photo before I moved onto the next stage of weathering the NMF. To give the NMF a weathered look I sprayed a very thinned down version of the RLM76 I'd been using onto the various panels to give them an oxidised look, I might have taken it a bit too far but I was aiming for a worn look. I then sprayed some very thinned down smoke over the panel joins. Here is the underside as it is now with the painting and oil wash completed In the various profiles they all agreed that the front of the fuselage and power egg was painted in RLM 83 Dark Green, some then went with RLM 83 over all the fuselage and others with RLM75 or 82, I decided to go with the RLM75. The profiles showed the wings to be either RLM83/75 or RLM83/82, again I went with the RLM 83/75 version as per EagleCals, this version seemed logical to me as this aircraft was built early in the mid production run at FW Marienburg according to various references which also stated that the colour schemes changed from 83/75 to 83/82 during this production batch, ok, it's a guess! The paints used were Mr Paint (from Slovakia) over their grey primer. I wanted a really worn looking effect as the photos showed it to be far from pristine so I sprayed some of the AK Interactive aluminium over the leading edges, along the wing roots and up to the cockpit and then used the salt technique to mask it off before commencing the top coats. I also painted the hatch on the port side of the fuselage with RLM75 as some photos appear to show it darker than the RLM76, it adds visual interest even if it might not be factual. The National and unit markings were sprayed on using Montex Masks, very fiddly and a bit nerve wracking but worth the effort, the red 18 was left slightly 'chipped' intentionally to fit in with the other 'chipping'. I didn't use their serial number mask on the fin though as it appeared to be too big compared to the photos. The stencils and serial numbers came from the EagleCals decal sheet. I didn't add the wing walkways as none of the profiles showed them and I couldn't see them on the photos (and also because they are a PITA to do). An oil wash was applied using various shades of AK Interactive and MIG washes and has been left to dry which is where I am at now. The next stage will be to seal all that in with a clear coat then do the detailed painting and weathering followed by the final assembly. So I'm hopeful that I'll have this finished before the Aberdeen Modeller's Society club meeting next week. Duncan B
  11. Hi Folks, here is my Zvezda Ju 87 painted up as an R2 White H from 1/StG1 based in Krainici in Bulgaria during the Balkans campaign of 1941. This is a snap together type of kit but don't let that fool you as the engineering and fit of this kit is excellent. The only detail missed that I could spot were the lack of aileron mass balances. My only concern was that the clear plastic didn't like being polished and was a bit awkward to fit together but other than that this was an enjoyable, stress-free build. i wanted something a bit different from the kit supplied options so used some Tally Ho decals from the "Achtung Stuka!" decal sheet. This was my first time I have tried the 'Mr Paint' range of acrylic paints and I have to say that I am very impressed both with the way they sprayed and the colour match too, I will definitely be using them again and can recommend them highly. Duncan B
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