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Found 4 results

  1. Shell Case Perfect Metal Acrylic Paint Set 1 (CS47) Lifecolor via The Airbrush Company Contains: UA786 Polished Steel Modern Shell, UA787 Lacquered Steel Late WWII German Shell, UA788 New Shell Brass Shade 1, UA789 New Shell Brass Shade 2, UA790 New Shell Brass Shade 3, UA791 Spent Shell Burned Brass I decided to test the “perfect” part of this set, as it’s always tempting to investigate an acrylic metallic to see if it’s a viable alternative to the lacquer paints I’ve used for years, but degrade and turn gritty after a while. The paints arrive in the usual 22ml plastic pots with black screw-capped lids. Inside the paint is quite viscous, so as I was spraying it for this test I thinned it with Ultimate Thinners. I used the upper wing halves from a kit that I’m never going to build, as my Fw.190 fuselage halves need stripping right now. After a little trial-and-error with the thinning, which was probably due to my rustiness having not used my airbrush for at least 3 months now, I sprayed out patches of each shade, and once dried the paints looked pretty good. The first three shades are pretty different in shade to each other, while the last three are similar, especially when painted right next to each other. This won’t matter when you’re painting a complete shell, and you can also mix them or overspray to give variations in tone, which is nice. The flake size of the paint is pleasingly small, which is often a cause for complaint about metallics, especially when exposed to artificial light. My photobooth is fairly strong indirect lighting, and although it exposed some poor airbrushing on my part, the flakes didn’t jump out at me. Lifecolor describe the paints as pigment rich and not needing a black undercoat. To test this hypothesis I put a quick coat of Tamiya rattle-can primer down beforehand, which seems to have been adequately covered by the paint where I applied it properly. As with most acrylics I gave the subject a light coat first, then put a heavier coat over after a few seconds, which on a model likely means you’ll never have to stop for a rest while the dust coat dries. Conclusion I like Lifecolor, and this set is a good one for metallics. The only drawback of all acrylics is their robustness, and if you scratch the paint it will damage. I usually get around this by adding a coat of clear gloss to most of my models once primary painting is complete (I think I can remember that far back). Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Hi, I’m getting back into model making after 30 years and came across your (very useful) website – a great resource. I have just bought an H&S Evolution airbrush and am only using acrylic (water-based) paints for my bike or car projects. So far I have found that the Revell Aqua paint sprays okay, whilst I can’t seem to get on with Humbrol at all (variable results across pots of the same colour) My question is this – which water based acrylics give the best metallic finish (ie on exhausts, wheels, engine covers, etc)? From what I can see there are quite a few makes to choose from here in the UK: AK Extreme Metal, Vallajo Metal Colour, Vallajo Model Air, etc – do they all have to be used over a primer? And if so, what type (matt/gloss)? Can these all be sprayed with a clear coat to protect/enhance them? What are the acrylic (non-solvent) clear coats like to use? The biggest attraction of these for me is that they are water-based and thus make cleaning the airbrush easy and odour free. Any advice greatly received, thanks!
  3. A couple of years ago, after I started airbrushing, I picked up a few Alclad 2 metallic paints. They took a bit of trial and error to get used to, and seemed to need careful surface preparation, but the results looked nice. However, they need good ventilation - I normally use an extractor hood, but advice is to wear a decent facemask as well. I also saw advice to be especially thorough in cleaning your airbrush after use. Then a few months ago I was at a show and saw Vallejo's Metal Colour acrylic range being demonstrated. They looked good, so I bought a couple and tried them out. Again, a bit of care is needed, but the result seemed good and they were far less smelly and cleaning my airbrush seemed a lot easier afterwards. I've since bought several more from the range but thought I'd do a test to see how they and the Alclad 2 paints compared. This is, I must emphasise, a rough and ready test. I sprayed four different primers on some gloss while board I had spare, and then sprayed a range of Vallejo Metal Color and Alclad 2 across them. The finish isn't always good - I wasn't taking my time, and I was more interested in getting good coverage than avoiding any blemishes or runs. However, the results were quite illuminating. Primers, from top to bottom: 1) Tamiya fine white primer, from spray-can. 2) Mr Surfacer 1000, from spray-can. (none - plain white paint) 3) Vallejo gloss black polyurethane primer 4) Alclad 2 gloss black base coat (Ignore the splotches to the left, that was a quick test with some AK True Metal paste) From left to right: 1) Alclad 2 Exhaust Manifold 2) Aclad 2 Magnesium 3) Alclad 2 Stainless Stee 4) Vallejo MC Exhaust Manifold 5) Vallejo MC Gunmetal 6) Vallejo MC Magnesium 7) Vallejo MC Burnt Iron 8) Vallejo MC Steel 9) Vallejo MC Silver 10) Vallejo MC Dark Aluminium 11) Vallejo MC Semi Matte Aluminium Generally (and not surprisingly) lighter and shinier shades benefit more from a dark background. Most to some extent are affected by the nature of the primer; the least affected were the darker or duller shades such as Magnesium or Exhaust Manifold. Vallejo Silver worked noticeably better on a lighter primer. Vallejo Polyurethane Black Gloss primer is noticeably much less glossy than the Alclad 2 black gloss. The latter worked perfectly well as a base for the Vallejo acrylics. The real surprise though was the difference between the two primers when Alclad Stainless Steel was sprayed on top; the Alclad 2 base resulted not only in a darker finish but one that was visibly blue-tinted. That's not necessarily a bad thing, especially if you want a hot-metal effect, but it's worth noting. Alclad Stainless Steel is much brighter than Vallejo Steel (but they are aiming for rather different finishes). Alclad Magnesium is somewhat lighter than its Vallejo counterpart; to my mind the Alclad shade is more representative of real-world magnesium, but the Vallejo shade is not unrealistic and I suppose you could use them both for contrast. Slightly to my surprise, Vallejo's Dark Aluminium came out lighter than its Semi-Matte Aluminium. Overall, this has reinforced my view that Vallejo Metal Colour acrylics work very well, but it has also prompted me to hang on to my Alclad 2 paints; they may be smellier to use and require more airbrush cleaning, but their Magnesium is a bit better than the Vallejo equivalent, and the variability of the Stainless Steel depending on the base coat gives the option of achieving some interesting effects.
  4. azureglo

    Move over Alclad?

    I just got this link for AK's allegedly better than the best metalliser thing ever: http://www.ak-interactive.com/ak/NEWSOCT2014/TRUEMETAL.pdf It looks way useful, anyone got their steely mitts on yet?
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