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Found 19 results

  1. I know I really shouldn't be starting another build, but with a major relocation looming I don't want to be adding masking which may stay in place for over 3 months. Since my other builds have mostly reached the stage of masking, and having just picked this up on evil bay, I couldn't resist opening it up to see what was needed. This will NOT be a quick build, as it will take a backseat to all other builds I have in progress. However, I always enjoyed these Matchbox kits as a kid and I love the subjects (I also just got hold of the Auto Union!) so time to take a look.... that was expected...... this wasn't... What?? Looks like the Chinese are reproducing these! Oh well, the result should be the same. First items on the agenda then are the chassis frames, Pretty basic, and in need of some TLC. The flash was cleaned off and mould lines removed, then it was time to start looking into what was needed to bring them up to scratch. First, the gap between the springs and chassis rails was corrected, as seen on the left. Then the connecting arm for the friction damper was removed, and the lightening holes were drilled out. That was the easy part. Now the wheels! This is what came in the box Not pretty. A bath in bleach helped, and at least shows that the moulding is not too bad, it's just that chrome that filled the gaps! The rear wheels are going to be a bigger problem, as the brake drum is moulded as part of the wheel. That will have to be removed, and of course all the spokes will need replacing. I'm now trying to figure out the best way of going about that. The plan at the moment is to drill through the rims from the outside to give me a starting point, then remove the spokes and file a groove into the hub to take the "wires", which will be either invisible thread or fishing line. Any tips are more than welcome! Thanks for looking in! Ian
  2. Hi all! It's been a while, but I'm back with a little fun! I recently bought a couple of old Airfix 1/32 carkits, among those were this 1/32 1904 Mercedes. The kit had already been started and there were glue smears and the build wasn't that good, but it was cheap, so I thought 'why not'! Now I've hatched a plan and I put this to you - what if - just with a stretch of imagination - Chitty Chitty Bang Bang wasn't a fantasy, but reality! This is then set a couple of years after Chitty Chitty Bang Bang where the sight of flying cars isn't a novelty anymore! So here we go (just for the fun of it!) The start: The status quo: Soeh! - let's see how this turns out - shall we? Cheers Hans J
  3. Here's the Tamiya kit with Studio27 detail up and composite sheet. Any comment is welcome
  4. Well that took a while, about 15 years to be exact! I started this model when I was in my teens and finished it tonight aged 30. It’s been done in stages with varying equipment and skill levels. From what I can remember… Sorry photos haven't turned out the best, the "soft focus" hides some of my blunders I did all the chassis stuff years ago, it’s all brush painted. To be honest I don’t think I did that bad a job of the engine and suspension components. The larger areas that I have brushed are a bit pants but overall its not bad. Worth saying at this point is that my biggest gripe with the model is the colour I have painted the rear brake ducts and inside of the body (not that you see that). It’s the mix stated on the Tamiya instructions which turns out a yucky sick colour, it’s meant to be carbon fibre colour... I painted the body TS-17 rattle can, quite pleased with it. The paint came up ok, can’t remember if I wet sanded any of it, think I just used the Tamiya finishing compounds on it. Couple of blemishes but nothing major, the TS silver colours are quite hard to get a consistent finish on in my experience. I tried to carve out the panel lines a bit and my hand slipped in a couple of places . I filled in the panel lines today using the 0.05mm Stadler pen technique, excellent and so easy. There’s no clear on any of it. I did consider giving the whole thing a whiff but I applied the decals probably about 8 years ago and don’t want to risk it. At some point a few years ago I invested in an airbrush. It’s the cheap unbranded set you get on ebay. Compressor is excellent, the 2 airbrushes in the kit are ok (don’t have anything to compare them too) they do the job but I don’t doubt a more premium one would give better results. My airbrushing skills are still at the level where it is more likely to be me that’s wrong than the tools though. I airbrushed the rear wing and wheels X-18, might have been a TS-29 can though. The airbrush has got more use in my subsequent model. I made a pretty good job with the decals if I say so myself. I use the microscale solutions. One bad bit is the large black decal below the windscreen, the microsol solution makes the decal shrivel up then dries out flat, well it should, this one dried down with a couple of very thin creases, didn’t look too bad at the time but as time has passed and the model handled the high bit has worn away in places so you see silver paint shining through. Its not quite perfectly aligned either but it was an absolute nightmare to put on, I didn't want to tear the very thin end bits, looks worse in the photo than it does in real life actually. Bits that annoy me. The aforementioned sick colour of the brake ducts The aforementioned below the windscreen decal My painting of the windows, I don’t think this kit came with a set of masks for the windows, I either didn’t paint a wide enough bit black or should have painted the body under it black too, you can see an outline of silver. N.B. I absolutely hate painting window outlines, I seem to get paint bleed no matter what I do! Any tips? Hopefully some light coats with the airbrush will give better results than brushing. The front brake ducts, the instructions say paint them white, all the pictures I have seen of the car in real life they are silver. I’m not really a detail freak, you won’t catch me scratch building anything any time soon, but this annoys me! I had painted them and glued them on before I really thought about it unfortunately. Glue marks! What do people use to stick their beautifully painted models together? I use the Revel stuff and it just seems to melt everything! I put all the old ones down to my youthful self being a bit rough but even when I stuck the body onto the chassis today I managed to make a mess being (what I thought to be) sparing with the glue, melted a bit of the silver paint along the bottom of the body but it’s not that noticeable. Its a kit issue but the front panel on the real car is all part of the body so there's no panel line, it also sits a bit to prominently and is straight whereas the real car has a slight curve. Could get rid of the panel line with some filler but that would be a difficult job. Guess I am more of a detail freak than I admit Any feedback or tips very welcome. I concentrated on the bad bits as one tends to but overall I am pretty happy with the model, as long as you don’t look too closely . For my next one, I am building the Revel Jagermeister 956 kit. It’s a kerbside so no engine. I'm using it really as a training model for my airbrush, will try and get round to posting it up. Going ok so far, having lots of fun with masking tape!
  5. German Staff Car "G4" 1:72 Revell The Mercedes Benz W31 type G4 was a large, three-axle car designed specifically for use as a staff car by the Wehrmacht. Powered by an eight-cylinder inline engine, the cars weight an impressive 3.7 tonnes. Maximum speed was limited to 42mph as a result of the chunky all-terrain tyres. Just 57 cars of the seven-seater cars were produced, of which at least three exist in their original state. One is located in Hollywood and is regularly used for war films. The vehcle is, of course, most famous for being used by Adolf Hilter during parades and inspections. The front passenger seat could be folded in order to allow the front passenger to stand during such events. Inside the surprisingly large end-opening box is one large frame of grey plastic, a much smaller frame of the same, a small clear frame, three steel rods which are used as axles and a set of soft rubber tyres. A small decal sheet is also included. I had wondered whether this was a brand new kit from Revell, but on closer inspection it's clear that this is the ICM kit which was released in 2015 and marketed as a snap-fit model. This is no bad thing however, as the ICM kit is well-regarded and nicely detailed. Surface detail is clean and crisp, and first impressions are very favourable. The instruction omit any mention of snap-fit assembly, so presumably you need to crack open the glue before carrying on. Assembly begins with the interior and body. The rear seat and door trim is painted gloss black to represent a leather finish, and the reat seat itself, as well as the wind screen, are integral parts that join the sides of the body together. Once the body has been joined to the floorpan, the bonnet, instrument panel and radiator cover can be fitted in place. At this point the model can be flipped over and all of the mechanical detail can be added. The eight-cylinder engine is pretty good, although not the most detailed I've seen in this scale. The ladder chassis is moulded with the front wings in place, and the engine mounts into this part from the top. After this, the chassis can be glued to the body, with the engine sandwiched between the two. Now that the substantive part of the car is complete, the exhaust and the wheels can be added. As mentioned above, the axles are made from steel rod and will allow free movement of the wheels if fitted correctly. Presumably the tolerances will be tight enough to make supergluing these parts superfluous. If you're wondering why Revell supply eight tyres with the kit, it's because two of them are for the spare wheels that fit either side of the bonnet. finishing details include fitted luggage and the folding roof (in folded position; ICM released a separate version of the kit with the roof up). Small flag poles and nicely detailed headlights are also included. Two different options are provides for on the decal sheet. The first is for a Wehrmacht staff car based in Berlin in 1942. It is finished in the light grey and black scheme featured on the box artwork. The second option is for a vehicle located in France in 1941. As you might expect for a vehicle used in occupied territory, it is finished in a more sombre dark grey finish. The decal sheet is small but nicely printed, however the swastikas have been omitted from the flags for the usual legal reasons. Conclusion This was a great kit when it was first released and nothing much has changed since. It's strange that Revell don't mention the snap-fit origins of this kit as kits of this nature can be virtually impossible to test fit prior to assembly (at least without a high risk of breaking the parts when trying to separate them again) but overall this should be a nice kit to build. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  6. Just finished this. This is the first car of a clients father.
  7. Hi guys, got this preordered and arrived yesterday, so just GOT TO build it!! LOL!
  8. Hi guys, this is the final reveal of the Mercedes AMG GT3 race car. This was a challenging kit to build for me, the kit decals were very thick, I had to use Tamiya X20A thinner to soften the decals on the rear wing and the carbon decals to get them to settle down, also I found the rear lights tricky to install. In order to preserve the matt finish on the body, I used Deluxe Materials Glue and Glaze to attach all of the lights and the windows etc, including the door handles and the mirrors to avoid marking the matt finish. Overall, for my first performance race car that I've ever built, I am happy with how it turned out. Enjoy the ride guys! Finally, you can see my work in progress of this build below.
  9. Finally got this built. Here it is in all its glory: On the whole, an enjoyable building experience. Tamiya kits are really at the top of the tree for quality. The only issue I had was with the number plate decals. As soon as they hit the (painted) plastic, they stuck right where they were placed. Didn't happen with any of the other decals from the same sheet. Weird. Hope you enjoy it. The build can be seen here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235007398-tamiya-124-mercedes-benz-amg-500sl/ All the best, Alan.
  10. Hi All, I seem to have got a bit of enthuisam back for modelling again! This has been on and off my bench for a considerable while. I'm not sure how long I have had this beast. Several years at the least... Cover picure: I think that this muscular beast will look good with my Mazda Mx-5. Two totally different cars, both with the idea that driving can be fun... Anyway the obligatory sprue shot: As you can see, there are a number of bits removed from the sprues, that's because I started on this model a fair while ago, then for lack of enthusiasm, I packed it all up, and more-or-less forgot about it. By the way, the clear parts were missed out in the photo, but I still have them... I re-discovered it while waiting for some paint (or cement, I can't remember to be honest) to set on the Revell Ferrari 308. I thought that I would get it out and have a look. The main body parts were all primed ready for a top coat, So I sanded the primer coat with some recently bought Tamiya 'Lapping Film'. This is a very fine abrasive that can be used to smooth paint or plastic surfaces prior to painting. It's pretty amazing stuff. The finish I got was pretty good, so I decided to have a go at painting it. I sprayed it with Humbrol Gunmetal acrylic using my trusty Badger air-brush (Must be nearly 30 years old, and still going strong). I thinned it using a 50:50 mix of Johnson's Klear and distilled water, So the final mix was about 35% paint to 65% thinner. I then hooked up my new Tamiya air-flow regulator to the compressor and set the flow rate to quite low. The regulator has no pressure gauge, so it's a bit of guess-work to establish the correct air-flow, but with a bit of practice, you get a really fine flow, but you do have to thin the paint quite a lot, or it won't crawl out of the bottle The Tamiya regulator is a really nifty piece of kit and not terribly expensive, about 8 quid from HLJ. This is where the various parts are now: Finally the bonnet (Hood): Once the paint was dry on the various body parts, it was a lovely matte shade (I think Humbrol gun-metal is matte anyway). It needed some 'shiney-ness'. I had some Halford's clear lacquer left over from other jobs, and tried it on the bonnet. After a few mist-coats followed by a couple of heavier wet-coats, it was glossy but a little orange-peely. So, after some elbow-grease with 2000 grit wet 'n' dry, the Tamiya lapping film and finally, Halford's rubbing compound, I got a pretty good high shine on the bonnet. The next stage is to get some more Halfords clear laquer, and finish the job on the body and fenders. Once that is done, I can get on with the interior, and final assembly. It's still a long way from being finished, but I feel that I have made some good progress. More to come. Cheers, Alan.
  11. Started this one last week. The Revell Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG. Something different then a Ferrari or a muscle car! It's going to be a pearl white car. I was going to use HobbyDesign SMG wheels, but the kit wheels look better with different tyres. The box and the wheels: Instructions, decals and body: All the parts: Quick setup of the car: Primed all the parts: And it will be a pearl white SLS AMG. So I painted the body parts with 1 grey coat of primer and 2 white coats. Got some bad experience with using white primer only... Tomorrow I'll try to put some colour on it! Thanks for watching! Mike
  12. Mercedes CLK GTR, pictures thanks to Rick.
  13. For my Dornier-diorama (see here for the build report of the Dornier) I recently purchased a number of vehicles. Yesterday I started work on the first, the Mercedes-Benz L1500 fire truck by Fan Kit Models. No instructions were provided, but fortunately on the kit maker's website there are several pictures of the model (otherwise I wouldn't have known how to build it). Yesterday I found out that this is a pre-1940 model (very rare) so that the diorama can be set in 1939 after all. Impressive box art: 1. 'Pushing-cutting' the resin can be done the standard way, with a knife... 2. ... but as soon as filing or sanding has to be performed, the toxicity of resin must be taken into account. The dust particles must not be breathed in, resin is one of the most dangerous substances a modeller may have to deal with. Usually, the following solutions are mentioned: wear a dust mask (which can't prevent the dust particles from flying around in the room), working on the resin underneath the water tap or in another room, or to work in the open air. I'd like to add the so-called steel saucepan-technique to those: fill a saucepan with water and work on the model underwater. Not too hot, otherwise the resin may warp. The pan handle can be used to put knife, saw and file on. 3. Filing the windows straight and neat takes quite a bit of time, but I happily give that for a nice result. 4. After careful filing, the undersides of the windows now run straight. 5. Resin casting blocks are often easily breakable from the model; this typically provides a nicer result than cutting and sanding. However, it is also sometimes risky... But reparation will fortunately be quite simple. 6. What an amazing model! Perfectly straight, something that cannot be said of all resin kits. Dryfit: 7. Inside the hangar. Totally spent time thus far: 2 hours.
  14. Hi Everyone, Here is my completed build of the Revell 1/24 scale Mercedes GP Petronas MGP W01 in Michael Schumacher's decal scheme for the German Grand Prix. This kit was painted entirely in Revell acrylic paints after being hit with a coat of Humbrol grey primer. Except for a minor problem with the fit of the rear wing section (which doesn't look too bad), this kit was an enjoyable build. Anyway onto the photos. Thanks as always for looking. Comments welcome. Rick
  15. Hi Everyone, I have a pair of Formula 1 cars in my stash which I intend to paint and build at the same time. I have the Revell 1/24 Red Bull Racing RB8 with decals for Mark Webber's version and a Revell 1/24 Mercedes GP Petronas MGP W01 which has decals for Rosberg and Schumacher (I will be building this one with Schumacher's decals). Here are the pictures of the box art as I haven't taken pictures of the sprues yet as these kits were washed at the same time as the F-14A. Redbull RB8 : Mercedes Petronas: Once finished, these 2 builds will join my McLaren F1 car which I finished last year in my display cabinet. I will update with sprue pictures later on. Rick
  16. Revell Mercedes 1628s Truck 1:25 The Mercedes 1628s is a 22ton tractor unit manufactured between 1973 and 1988 and was a popular truck worldwide, the Revell kit is a day cab 2 axle tractor unit, with the Mercedes 280bhp V8 engine. The 1628 was available as a tractor or a rigid truck so there are lots of options to convert the base kit. The kit comes over 4 main sprues cast in a light grey. Being an older kit there is some flash on the parts but nothing that needs more than a quick pass with a knife and a sanding stick. The parts are well done, and have some very nice detail on them. Construction kicks off with the multi part chassis, the 2 rails are joined with a large casting that has 4 cross members cast in place, take care when removing this from the sprue, and cleaning this up as it will help keep your chassis straight and true. 3 more cross members are also added before you can add the springs and the 2 axles to your chassis. Extra parts like the anti-roll bars and shock absorbers are also glued into place. The front axle is a fixed part so the wheels can’t be displaced turned without some work but it does give a stronger part. The engine is made up from multiple parts and gives a well detailed engine block, of course you can add some wiring and pipes as the cab can be tilted to show it off. Looking at the instructions you should be able to build and paint the chassis and engine separately adding it late in the build. The wheels look like nice casting, copying the real parts nicely, whereas other kits have a generic wheel, looking at the parts there is a hole in the rear hubs that may need filling but I will see when I build this shortly. There are 6 nice rubber tyres with good sidewall and tread details, some of the nicest truck tyres I have seen. Once you have a rolling chassis you can move onto the cab, the interior is made from multiple parts and they are well detailed. Paining instructions are referenced back to the Revell paint codes with the colours being very 80’swith various browns over more modern greys. There are decals to give the checked effect on the seats and door cards. The truck is of course Left hand Drive but it would be a simple conversion to swap the parts over both in the cab and on the chassis. The cab shell come as a single part and captures the shapes of the cab very well, with the various pressings and panel lines being in scale. There is again a little flash but nothing that will cause a headache to even the most novice modeller. There is a clear sprue that includes most of the cab glazing, only missing the door windows but it wouldn’t take much to create these from some clear plastic sheet. Lenses are included for the lights and some clear red and orange will be needed, the lenses are detailed with engraved lined to separate the red and amber areas. Check you references for the exact layout as it could vary. There is a decal sheet that contains the seat and door card pattern I mentioned earlier in the build, also included are a set of Mercedes cab stripes as applied in the factory and some model badges for the exterior of the cab. Some decals are also included for the clocks on the dashboard and they look well detailed. A variety of registration plates are also included, the UK ones give a late 1980, early 1981 vehicle that would fit with the era (a Leicester registered truck) the decals are as expected from Revell, well printed with good fine decals. Conclusion A welcome re-issue of an older Revell kit. It will be a popular kit as a basis for conversions. Lets hope Revell re-issue some more versions of this (Race Truck PLEASE!!!!!!!!) A build review will follow shortly as I already have a build in mind! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  17. Anyone looking for this one? models for sale have it for 30 quid http://www.modelsforsale.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=694879-Gakken-1/16-1936-Mercedes-540K-Date:-80%27s- And you were trying so hard not to buy any more... Sorry And a Pocher 1/8th Alfa 8C - But that is 400 quid! http://www.modelsforsale.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=692823-Pocher-Alfa-Romeo-8C-2300-Monza-1931-1/8-Date:-1970%27s-
  18. Just for fun was my credo to built this little truc! The name Kibri was the first model brand wich I came in contact as little boy. My father built this kits. And now I was thinking, what`s going on, If I would challenge one with my expieriences today?! Well here it is. Pls don`t be to harsh with your criticism about my weathering as this model was built only as a joke and for testing my weathering skills on 1:87!
  19. Mercedes Benz 300SL-24 1:24 plastic kit from Revell The Mercedes Benz SL class is the light weight grand tourer of the Mercedes car range, the SL stands for Sport Leicht, or Sport Lightweight car, the SL moniker was first applied to the 300SL gull wing.. The model that has been kitted by Revell came into production in 1989, and production continued until 2003, this car hosted some new safety and comfort features for Mercedes, including an automatically deployed roll over bar, and a massive choice of engines from the 2.8l, through to the mighty V12 in the AMG equipped model, with a choice of automatic or manual gearboxes. In 1994 there was a minor facelift of the model featuring new head and tail lamps and some new engine options. The SL300-24 was a mid range model equipped with a 3l 24 valve engine producing 228hp, and this model had a production run of only 3 years between 1990, and 93. The first part to come out of the end opening Revell box is the single part body, this covers the main shell minus the bonnet/ hood. This means none of the doors or boot/ trunk open on the kit so should you want this you will have to crack out the saw. A quick check with some dimensions on line and the shell looks to be a good scale size and to my eye a nice shape. There is a large sprue that runs between the windscreen pillars and back to the front edge of the boot in a T section to give some strength and support to the part, take lots of care when removing this as the windscreen pillars have no support and would break very easy. The monocoque chassis is formed in a single part and has some nice detail on the underside, some parts for the 6 cylinder engine are included on this sprue also. A quick test shows the shell and chassis to fit together well. There is a little flash in places but it’s thin and will be easy to sand off. The rest of the engine is found on this sprue, and is a good likeness to the six cylinder found in the car, there is some good detail on the parts and with some careful painting a nice block can be made, but as always a bit of wire, or some aftermarket bits will give a fantastically detailed engine that could be seen under the open bonnet/ hood. Also on this sprue are the 2 part wheels, copies of the Mercedes 16inch wheels. The suspension sub frames are well detailed with the multi link suspension being captured both front and rear There is only a left hand drive dashboard included in the kit, come on Revell think of us who drive on the correct side of the road please! Other companies include both dash boards in there kits.... Anyway, whinge over the dash is in 2 parts and is a good copy of the real cars the various dials, switches etc are moulded onto the surface, and they look to mirror the dash well, careful painting and dry brushing will let these details pop out, important in an open top car. The steering wheel also captured the shape and loom of the car and when glues to the column will slip into the dash nicely. The bracing for the underside of the bonnet/ hood is also on this sprue, a nice touch as when painted it should contrast, with the underside of the bonnet/ hood being black to simulate the sound deadening material and the bracing being the body colour. Lastly of note on this sprue is a choice of gear knobs, either for an auto or manual gear box. The 2 front seats on the 300SL-24 are like big comfortable armchairs, and feature sporty side supports should you want to push through the corners and inbuilt seatbelts. Looking at shots on the web Revell have captured the look of the seats, and they have some finely engraves seatbelts along with the clips moulded in situ, you can of course paint these or some will want to sand them off and add aftermarket bits. The rear wheel drive axle has the pressings in the differential and the gaiter boots being moulded on the kits plastic, the shape and the detail on the mountings is well done and again mirrors the 1:1 parts. The 3 cooling fans come next and it’s nice to see them moulded separately to the radiator this makes it easy to paint in the contrasting colour as seen on the real engine. The main interior tub comes as a single part, needing the side panels gluing on. The rear seat has engraved moulding to simulate the stitching lines on the car, and there is some moulded detail on the centre transmission tunnel for the gear leave surround and the cubby holes on the car. The internal door cards are a bit sparse on detail so you may want to put some time in on this as if you build with the roof off it will be very easy to see. The bumpers front and rear follow the shape of the car, and the grill on the front bumper is open. The bonnet/ hood is also on this sprue, and again follows the cars lines and a quick try shows it to be a good fit should you want to glue it shut on your build. There is some raised detail for the washer jets, and the Mercedes badge on the front I personally think this is a little big so Ill sand it off and use the kits decal. There is a small chrome sprue that contains the cars grill, this will benefit from a wash to give some depth to the grill and badge, also included in the shiny stuff are the headlamp bowls once they have the glass over the front they give a nice deep effect as a real lamp does. Some chromed parts are also supplied as the mirror glass for the wing mirrors, there is some flash on these but should clean up quickly and give a good effect on the model There is an optional hard top to give a closed roof for your build, when built and painted if you don’t glue it down you should be able to add and remove at your leisure. I can’t comment on the final fit but a test fit on the review bench suggests a little work with the sanding stick will be required to get a nice finish. There is a clear sprue that includes the windscreen; you will need to mask the screen carefully to paint the black trim around the glass. The windscreen has the driver and passenger sun visors in place and there is some flash present on the review kit that will need cleaning up. The rear window is moulded as an insert for the optional hardtop, and extends to include the rear side windows, but this doesn’t reach the full length of the roof so you may want to trim it back to save a step on the inside of the roof section. Again you will want to mask it off to paint the black seals and trims on the windows. Also included are the head and tail lamps, the tail lamps will need backing with some silver or chrome and then painting with clear reds and Orange to suit the standard or ‘tuner’ version of the 300SL with is clear indicator lenses. 4 rubber tyres come in their own little bag, they are some low profile Dunlop sports, the tread looks very realistic but I feel the detail on the side wall is a bit heavy, but would probably settle once sanded and weathered. A small decal sheet is included, it contains decals to simulate the fabric seats available on the 300SL, I don’t think it looks great, but as the vast majority of cars I’ve looked at while researching this review have black or grey leather I wouldn’t use them, I’ll be painting the seats to simulate leather upholstery. There are various European registration plates with the UK plates looking wrong, they carry the wrong font looking more German than UK but I have had show plates on my Golf in a German font! You get some wood effect sections for the dash and centre console as well as a choice of stock or custom dash dial pods, either black or white clocks lastly you get a selection of badges. Conclusion A nice model of an SL Mercedes, will be a nice stock build, or lowered with some nice alloys tucked under the arches, can you see where my build is heading..... Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
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