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Found 11 results

  1. Kursk, 1943 Last German Offensive in the East ISBN : 9781612007076 Casemate Illustrated - Casemate UK There is no doubt the Battle for Kursk was the largest Tank Battle of WWII, and to this date the largest tank battle in the world. With 6000 tanks, 2 million men and 4000 aircraft it was truly monumental. The Germans launched operation Citadel in the Sumner of 1943 in the hope of trapping the Soviet Army in the Kursk Salient to end their Summer offensive that year. Depleted in terms of man power and equipment the Germans hoped to reply in their panzer forces to enable this. However the Russians were aware of the operation partly through the help of British Intelligence and built formidable defences in the area. This was the first time a German offensive was stopped before it could break through and the battle quickly degenerated into a battle of attrition. The Germans would loose a large quantity of Men & Materials at Kursk which they were never ale to recover from, never again did the German Army go on the offensive in the East. This book in the Casemate Illustrated series tells the story of this dramatic battle using rare and unpublished photographs, maps, and highly detailed artwork profiles of the tanks and vehicles involved Conclusion If you're interested in the war in the last hurrah of the Germany Army on the western front and how/where the Germans counteroffensive failed this is a good read. There are plenty of photos and profiles for the modeller. Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Tiger I Early Version ‘Operation Citadel’ (A1354) 1:35 Airfix Everyone that’s even a little bit interested in tanks will know the name of the dreaded Tiger tank from WWII, which was at the forefront of German armoured might, and if it wasn’t for the limited numbers on the battlefield coupled with their unreliability, plus Hitler’s meddling with his General’s decisions, the invasion in 1944 might have been much harder fought than it already was. Designed to replace the Panzer IV but often fighting alongside it, the Tiger added extra armour and a larger 88mm gun similar to that of the successful Flak 37 artillery piece, and became one of the most dangerous tanks on the field in the later stages of WWII. The drive-train was stressed to the max due to the huge weight of the gun and armour, which caused many vehicles to be lost due to breakdowns and subsequent abandonment and scuttling of the hull. This issue was also carried over into the even more lethal King Tiger (Tiger II, Königstiger). Operation Citadel was the Germans’ last ditch attempt to turn the tide of the Russian tsunami that concentrated on the Kursk salient in an effort to cut-off a large portion of the Russian invasion force, showing initial signs of success but was halted at the decisive Kursk battle that led to huge losses of irreplaceable German armour and aircraft that critically weakened the German forces that accelerated their ultimate downfall in Berlin. The Kit This is another of Airfix’s collaborations with Academy in order to get their new 1:35 armour line up and running, with new indigenous tools coming on stream in due course. The box is an Airfix red-themed affair with a painting of a camouflaged Tiger heading toward us. Inside the box are nine sprues and lower hull in sand coloured styrene, five sprues in black, a tree of poly-caps, a length of braided cord, small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, and a small decal sheet. The instruction booklet has been adapted to the Airfix style but without the shading of newer kits, and there are coloured profiles in the rear for the two decal options in the box. Construction begins with the lower hull, which is decked out with the swing arms on both sides with a couple of little holes puttied over on the way. The wheels are next, and these are created in two types, one of which has a poly-cap between the halves, with more poly-caps to hold the idler and drive sprockets in place. The paired wheels are applied to the axles at the end of the swing-arms, with the outer set joined by an inner wheel with another longer poly-cap added into the mix. This gives the correct interleaved format that cost the crews so much time to repair and replace when one was damaged, meaning they had to remove a huge number of wheels to get at one of the inners. With these and the towing eyes fitted, the rear bulkhead is decked out with exhaust stacks, armoured shields and mudguards before being glued in place on the lower hull. The feifel air cleaners are made up and fixed along with the deformable outer exhaust covers that usually ended up beaten half to death and perforated by small arms fire. Pioneer tools are dotted around the remaining spare space along with the jack and convoy lights, then the top deck is begun. The deck is made up from a forward section with the turret ring incorporated, with the large cast cooling vents fitted around the rear section over the radiator baths, with PE grilles installed over these to keep out grenades and large chunks of dirt. More pioneer tools are added with the hatches at the front, and at the rear the engine hatch is fitted out with mushroom vents, the feifel filter trunking and manifold, then added to the remaining space in the engine deck. This is added to the lower hull along with the top glacis plate that houses the bow-mounted machinegun and driver’s view port, with the lower near-horizontal panel added at the same time. The large plastic towing cables are fixed to the top deck once complete, and the other small black sprue contains the hoses for the feifel filters. The tracks in this kit are individual plastic links that take up four of the black sprues. They are glued together in runs of 96 links, then wrapped around the road wheels while the glue is still flexible and held in position while the glue finishes setting, being careful to add the correct sag to the top run to mimic the effects of gravity on those heavy cast links. Each link has two sprue gates, and the inside of each part has two very feint ejector pin marks that won’t need clean-up if you’re planning on dirtying them up. Each link has two guide-horns, but they are solid, unlike the real thing, which had a small hole in the “root” that isn’t easy to replicate in a single piece link. Again, with mud added, this will hardly notice, but if you’re bothered you can always fork out for some Friul tracks or similar. The turret is next, and here you’ll need to check you’re using the correct parts as there are two sets of the main turret parts included in the box. It’s the parts one the smaller sprue with only the additional hatch that you’ll need, so don’t blame me if you use the wrong ones! You begin with the barrel and mantlet, with the former made up from four tubes of different lengths and diameters, plus a three-piece muzzle brake. The mantlet is three parts, and includes the socket for the gun tube, plus the holes for the sighting devices and co-ax machinegun. This assembly is added to the two turret halves, trapping it in position and allowing it to pivot. The grenade launchers have small PE detailing parts added to the back of each one, and attach to the sides on a C-shaped bracket. A pistol port is added to the left side at the rear, and some small PE parts are optionally glued to the left under the gun pivot. The roof, commander’s cupola, gunner’s hatch and optional rear stowage bin with PE clasps are then glued in place with a mushroom vent for fume extraction, and a shell ejection port for getting rid of those pesky used cartridges. To finish off, the turret is locked in place using a bayonet connector, the feifel hosing is clamped down, the side skirts are fitted, and a little extra track is added to stiffen up the armour on the lower glacis, held in place by a PE bracket. With the build complete you are given the option of adding zimmerit to the vertical portions of the hull, but check your references before proceeding, as factory application of this anti-magnetic mine paste was discontinued later in the war. Markings The small decal sheet contains markings for two options, both with a dark yellow (dunkelgelb) base coat and with one having green overpainted camouflage. From the box you can build one of the following: Tiger I early commanded by Alfred Dubbel, 1./Schwere Panzer Abt. 503, Russia, July 1943. Tiger I early 11th Kompanie, III Abteilung, Großdeutschland Division, Kharkov area, Summer 1943. Conclusion Another Tiger for the Airfix line, which although it isn’t the newest and most high-tech of offerings has good detail plus the addition of some PE and individual link tracks to recommend it. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Hey guys, This is my first of hopefully many posts and builds on this forum. I'm relatively new to modelling having only two proper model kit builds to my name. This is my latest one - The 1/35 Panther D from Tamiya. I had never weathered a model before so this was a really fun build and I feel I learned a lot. You can probably tell I went pretty heavy on the rust and that (not very realistic for a Panther in Kursk I know...) I wanted to put it up here so you gents could take a look at it and maybe tell me what to improve for next models, I'm sure there is loads of things that could have been done better. But at the end of the day it's all a learning curve isn't it. By the way, please excuse the quality (rather lack of it) of the pictures, the next ones will be better. The last image is just a base I threw it on for a high school project (didn't invest much time into it, I hate having to model for school purposes) My next project is a 1/35 Type 16 from Tamiya. I won't give all the details here but If you're interested the first post will be up in the "work in progress" section later today. I'd appreciate it if you could help me out by telling me how it's going what I'm doing well, not so well etc... Kind regards, Jack
  4. This is an old 1/48 Esci HS-129 I'm trying some heavy wear technique's on. I scratch built an interior and gun sight based on photo's. Rescribed and riveted the airframe, and started by painting portions with Tamiya's acrylic Titanium silver. Then airbrushed several coats of hairspray, followed by thinned coats of a mix to replicate the red oxide primer. Finally chipped and scratched with water, a stiff brush and a toothpick. When it's dry, I'll hairspray again, then light camo so the primer shows in places, then hairspray and scrub and scratch again. Should be an interesting experiment!
  5. Hey guys, This is my first of hopefully many posts and builds on this forum. I'm relatively new to modelling having only two proper model kit builds to my name. This is my latest one - The 1/35 Panther D from Tamiya. I had never weathered a model before so this was a really fun build and I feel I learned a lot. You can probably tell I went pretty heavy on the rust and that (not very realistic for a Panther in Kursk I know...) I wanted to put it up here so you gents could take a look at it and maybe tell me what to improve for next models, I'm sure there is loads of things that could have been done better. But at the end of the day it's all a learning curve isn't it. By the way, please excuse the quality (rather lack of it) of the pictures, the next ones will be better. The last image is just a base I threw it on for a school project (didn't invest much time into I hated having to model for school purposes) My next project is a rather big one, diorama of Bologna airfield 1944, Italy. I won't give all the details here but If you're interested the first post will be up in the diorama section as well as one in the "other vehicles" section (first build is the 1/48 SS-100 from Tamiya) in the coming days. I'd appreciate it if you could help me out by telling me how it's going what I'm doing well, not so well etc... Kind regards, Jack
  6. Hey Guys, Here's my rendition of the rather nice HobbyBoss Kursk. Nice being used only to describe the detail - construction was horrible! The silos straddling each side of the conning tower were positioned on the basis of a semi-hemispherical notch and that's it. Sounds relatively easy on paper, but in real life it was painful... hence the closed bays! Apart from that the fit of the hull together in two parts was nice and the conning tower was also a nice fit. I found however the instruments such as the ESM, periscope radar etc. were a fiddle as the lack of locating holes problematic in getting the masts to sit straight. So it was a little by eye to be fair, and from this i can only conclude i need an eye test... Painting her in Humbrol 67 'Tank Grey' which in effect was a match for the Mr. Hobby 'Tyre Black' Hobbyboss were calling for. The underside was Sovereign Hobby's Colourcoat's RM08 'Rosso' which in layman's terms is White Ensign's model enamels equivalent to hull red I believe. The conning tower called for it to be all black but contemporary photos of Kursk showed it having the bad-weather deck windows framed in white giving the, what looks like to me, soviet subs a rather creepy look. Also I painted some stems silver and the big dome yellow as per a reference photo I found and lost. So lets call that one artistic licence! Decalling was interesting as the carrier film the decals came on was excessively large and trying to get decals such as the emergency buoy over the dome for it was eating into my decal softener stash something rotten. Weathering however consisted mainly of Tamiya Smoke on the underside, Tamiya German Grey on top lightening patches and loads of streaking with oil paintings. Finishing off with Xtracolour's Enamel Matte Varnish I began work on the base which was literally Tamiya Gold leaf with the recessed areas sprayed black. And so it is I have finished my first ship model and so far I've gotten hold of Bronco's HMS Vanguard and Micro-Mir's Alfa to folllow the build up! As to be honest I did enjoy the build quite a lot I probably could of dusted her off but I didn't quite expect to find so much after just 2 days of finishing... Maybe time to clean the modelling room out! Thanks for looking guys Sam
  7. Built this as a gift for a friend who's a fan of Russian nuclear subs. This is also the first model I've painted with airbrush. The airbrush itself is a cheap single action kit with everything included, probably not the best but it got the job done and I figured it's good for learning the craft. The kit itself is made by Zvezda and was actually pretty good considering the price. The hull halves only had 4 aligning tabs so that was a bit of a pain. I also added some styrene rod for detail in the open missile bay, as it was very bare before that. I painted using Vallejo's primer and diluted Vallejo model color as I have a lot of those. I did some preshding with black and then painted the upper half with Vallejo black gray. Added some highlights with a mix of black gray and dark sea gray. The bottom is cavalry brown which I think serves as an excellent, not too dark hull red. For the screws I used AK's true metal gold. Lastly I sealed it up with matt varnish. The stand is paulownia wood with a couple coats of dark oil. The kit's own stand was really unattractive so that wasn't an option. My only grief with the build is the uneven white stripe, and that I remembered to paint it only after adding the decals so I managed to tear some with masking tape...
  8. (The Ready for inspection thread can be found here.) This is the "Russian Navy SSGN Oscar II Class Kursk Cruise Missile Submarine" kit from HobbyBoss, in 1:350 scale. Length: 440mm Width: 52mm Parts: 143, inclucing 7 parts photo etch (PE name plate) (Most are missile parts probably) I had so much fun making my submarine models, that I might as well start on this one now. It is a little big for my Ikea "Detolf" glass cabinet, so I will have to get another cabinet soon, or I can at least place the model diagonally inside the cabinet for now. Please let me know if anyone knows how to best cover the openings around the glass doors in cabinets in general, so that dust won't enter in between the gaps when the doors are shut. I think I have seen some kind of brush-like tape, but I wouldn't know where to find such a thing. I think I will model this submarine with the hatches closed, for all the launch tubes. I am not a fan for having open panels on my models unfortunately. The painting scheme that come with the kit indicates a black and red color for the hull. The decals are few and small'ish. Unlike the Akula model, which comes with decals for a big white line around the hull.
  9. I recently accquired the Eduard Weekend Edition 1/72 Bf.110G-2 and was pleased to discover that it appears to contain the 3.7cm Bordkanone for the (I beliieve) R1 variant.....Could anyone point me toward a convenient source of information and/or 1/72 decals for Pz.Jg.St/ZG1 aircraft with this armament operating during the battle of Kursk please?
  10. Hello, my attempt on small-scale armor: 1/72 Revell's Panzer III Ausf.M with side skirts and small details from Eduard Photo Etch. This is a vehicle of 6.Panzerdivision, in action at Kursk, 1943. Painted with colours from the Gunze/Mr.Hobby range. Decals from the box. Thanks for looking! Roman
  11. Hi all, This is the Tamiya 1/700 Kursk. I have wished to present it overflown by 2 F-18s. The Kursk has tragically sunk in the Barents Sea on 12 August 2000. All 118 sailors and officers perished. Thanks for looking, Nicolas
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